DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap - Page 15 - Toyota Yaris Forums

jkuchta · 05-23-2009, 01:15 PM

Re-read post #78 in this thread.

If you adjust the idle screw while the car is running, then the ECU will compensate to run a preset idle speed, and you won't know if your adjustment worked or not.

MGargano · 05-23-2009, 01:54 PM

So after adjusting the idle screw I should be around 700-800rpm at warm idle? Will adjusting the screw have any effect on the high cold idle?

*tk-421* · 05-23-2009, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGargano

So after adjusting the idle screw I should be around 700-800rpm at warm idle? Will adjusting the screw have any effect on the high cold idle?

It will, but it will always end up higher than stock. I settled on a 2.5K cold idle, which isn't too much I think.

jkuchta · 05-24-2009, 12:11 AM

Just thought I'd repost this:

Hey everyone:

I did this swap this last Sunday...and man what a differeance!

First off I installed the 1ZZ TB stock (no idle screw adjustment or chip swap). Cold idle was high (around 3K) and fluctuated, like everyone has mentioned, though my warm idle was around 850-900rpm, with a pretty bitchin' roughness (think bigger cam). There were definate problems though.

1) CEL: came on intermittantly with P0171 (iirc) lean condition, especially while transitioning from idle to part throttle, though once cleared, this CEL would not come back while driving or coming back to a stop, which makes me want to rule out any sort of air leak.

2) Throttle response was lacking, and pretty disconnected..i.e. while shifting the engine would over-rev 500-1000rpm, and the car seemed to lack any real grunt anywhere in the powerband. I have a scangauge, and could see I was getting full throttle operation.

3) When the car went into DFCO it would feel like I had just released the 'chuts! With the OEM TB DFCO is almost inperceptable, but with the unadjusted 1ZZ TB it was pretty uncomfortable feeling.

4) Heel-toe downshifting was pretty much impossible as well due to lack of fine rev control, and a wierd over-rev/under-rev (the car stalled itself twice) on deceleration.

These symptoms were consistant over more than 3 hours of driving.

On Monday afternoon, I removed the 1ZZ TB and swapped out the chip with the OEM 1NZ chip. I did this without disconnecting the battery, as I wanted to see how big a difference this swap would make, all other things being equal.

BIG DIFFERENCE!

1) High Cold idle lasts about half as long. Also, there is no ocillation. The rpms just go straight to 2500-2700, and then slowly taper back down.

2) The idle is also much more stable (like stock), with no (albeit cool) roughness.

Now I got to work setting the correct idle speed. For some reason, the epoxy over the idle set screw on my 1ZZ TB came off nice and easy, an in one piece. After a few minutes idleing, the engine settled to about 1K rpm, which set off a CEL (I think P0220 iirc(TB stuck open)). I adjusted the screw to the point of killing the engine (which triggered another CEL (P0505...bad idle)). I then screwed the idle set screw back in about half way, which when the engine was turned back on, gave me an idle of about 850 rpm. I then shut the engine back off and adjusted the screw back out about a turn, which (when the engine was turned back on) gave me a nice stable (and smooth) 720-750rpm.

Note: The idle speed in the last 1500+ miles has settled down to 600-700 rpm, which I would attribute to ECU trimming.

Based on the manual, this is as high as you can go without running the risk of getting a "bad idle" CEL. This idle rpm also makes leaving stoplights a little better in that the engine doesn't bog quite as much.

A note on setting the idle:

Adjustments should be made with the engine and ignition off, as doing the adjustment with the engine running will only cause the ECU to compensate to maintain the idle speed, almost regardless of the idle set screw position (took me 10 min. to figure that out).

Driving impressions:

1) Throttle response is better than stock, and the car pulls like a motha' (well....way more than with the stock TB) above 2200 rpms.

2) Heel-toe downshifting is better than stock (rpms come up a little faster, and with a little more "control" (i.e. a little tap gives a few hundred rpm (great for the 5th-4th shift), and a bigger dab gives about 1000 rpm (great for 4th-3rd, and 3rd-2nd shifts).

Once the idle was set there have been no CELs of any kind, and the car is a riot to drive!

As far as I'm concerned...this is a must-do mod for anyone with the stomach to do the chip swap (drilling out that first rivet is mentally the hard part), though the idle adjustment is pretty much a requirment to make this thing feel right.

A big THANK YOU to T-sport for the diy (and having the nuts to do this in the first place)!

Side note:

I also did the TB coolent bypass. My other mods are as follows : Simota Carbon SRI (the big box), WR header, Thermal axle-back, and nology hotwires, running Shell V-Power and Motul 300V 5W-30.

jkuchta · 05-24-2009, 12:25 AM

http://www.qvc.com/qic/qvcapp.aspx/v...&cm_ite=V28297

I have a set of these, and they work pretty well. I got them at ACE Hardware.

MGargano · 05-24-2009, 12:32 AM

Thanks... will try that on my next day off.

MGargano · 05-24-2009, 12:36 AM

Now that the head is totally shot, should I replace the original screw with something else?

jkuchta · 05-24-2009, 01:03 AM

Yes...take it to ACE and get a standard metric allen socket head cap screw (I think it's an M3 diameter with .5mm thread pitch...but I'm not 100% sure). I think you'll want something about 40-50mm long.

marcus · 05-24-2009, 11:24 AM

remind people thats gonna do this to play around with that screw before to put it on!!

jkuchta · 05-26-2009, 01:10 PM

Right on!

MGargano · 06-04-2009, 10:20 AM

I finally adjusted the idle screw and haven't got thrown a CEL yet and the start-up oscillation appears to be gone, but now the engine does a weird thing at idle. The RPMs drop very low (around 400) and the car starts to shudder like it's gonna stall out, then the engine revs itself up to about 1,500 RPM for a second. It keeps doing this over and over until I finally turn the car off for fear it's gonna stall. It's even worse when I'm idling with the A/C on. Also getting some jerkiness in the pedal when it enters DFCO.

jkuchta · 06-05-2009, 11:00 AM

turn the screw clockwise a half turn with the engine off. That should make it better. Also, if a half turn isnt enough, keep turning in half turn increments (with the engine off).

MGargano · 06-06-2009, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkuchta

turn the screw clockwise a half turn with the engine off. That should make it better. Also, if a half turn isnt enough, keep turning in half turn increments (with the engine off).

I gave up on the 1ZZ for the 2nd time. No matter how many turns I gave the idle screw, after a while the engine would settle back down to around 500 RPM, shake/shudder, rev up to 1,000 RPM, and then repeat the process until I either started moving or turned the car off in frustration. I hate all the problems I'm having since the performance of the the 1ZZ really is noticeably better than OEM, but I can't take the way it idles. I was also getting the heavy jerking whenever I took my foot off the gas.

PETERPOOP · 06-06-2009, 12:54 PM

you might have gotten a bad throttle body. maybe you should order the one through cali yaris.

MGargano · 06-06-2009, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PETERPOOP

you might have gotten a bad throttle body. maybe you should order the one through cali yaris.

I don't think it's that, since the TB was working perfectly until I disconnected the battery. I wasn't getting any oscillation, jerking, weird idling, or CEL... then I pulled the battery cable and all these problems came out of the woodwork. I might try the swap again down the road sometime. Where can I get the Micro Image one? I don't see it listed on his website. Is it new or used/refurbished?

jkuchta · 06-07-2009, 01:17 PM

It's a 1zz TB, with the Yaris chip module already swapped on...also, we remove all of the epoxy on the idle set screw and make a preliminary adjustment to get you in the ballpark.

PETERPOOP · 07-05-2009, 01:37 PM

finally installed my 1zz tb after months of it sitting in my room. no CELS. warm idle at 2500rpms, then within seconds drops to 2k rpms, and then idles smoothly at a warm idle of 585 rpms. Didn't adjust the idle screw, and I didn't switch the chips; I think i've lucked out....

Drove the car after and ran it hard and conservatively, no problems! niceee

edit: Still running good. I don't really notice an increase in power? I remember looking at Yoda's dyno sheet that he did after he added the 1zz TB, and he got a gain of 3 whp. Unless I got less of a gain, I can't really feel 3 whp added to the existing. However, if the car keeps running with no problems for a couple of weeks, I plan on taking it to get dyno'd. Now that I have my 1zz injectors, I will be able to successfully do three pulls and hopefully hit 140whp now with the 1zz TB! :)

blacksandiegovitz · 07-17-2009, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by echo_hrs

I got my TB yesterday & cleaned and polished it...I need to go get a coupler for the intake to TB, is it a 2.25" - 2.5" I need?

Anything else I need for the swap?

I'm thinking I'll just do the straight swap like PETERPOOP and see what I get before swapping chips...

Cheers

I just did this swap today and Its feels a lot stronger. I was able to make my aem coupler strech over the corolla tb .
you'll also need either 6 rivets and a rivet gun or 6 x small bolt and nuts for the "chip swap "

07-05-2009, 01:37 PM	#17
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	finally installed my 1zz tb after months of it sitting in my room. no CELS. warm idle at 2500rpms, then within seconds drops to 2k rpms, and then idles smoothly at a warm idle of 585 rpms. Didn't adjust the idle screw, and I didn't switch the chips; I think i've lucked out.... Drove the car after and ran it hard and conservatively, no problems! niceee edit: Still running good. I don't really notice an increase in power? I remember looking at Yoda's dyno sheet that he did after he added the 1zz TB, and he got a gain of 3 whp. Unless I got less of a gain, I can't really feel 3 whp added to the existing. However, if the car keeps running with no problems for a couple of weeks, I plan on taking it to get dyno'd. Now that I have my 1zz injectors, I will be able to successfully do three pulls and hopefully hit 140whp now with the 1zz TB! :) Last edited by PETERPOOP; 07-05-2009 at 08:48 PM.

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05-23-2009, 01:15 PM	#1
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Re-read post #78 in this thread. If you adjust the idle screw while the car is running, then the ECU will compensate to run a preset idle speed, and you won't know if your adjustment worked or not.

05-23-2009, 01:54 PM	#2
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	So after adjusting the idle screw I should be around 700-800rpm at warm idle? Will adjusting the screw have any effect on the high cold idle?

05-24-2009, 12:11 AM	#4
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Just thought I'd repost this: Hey everyone: I did this swap this last Sunday...and man what a differeance! First off I installed the 1ZZ TB stock (no idle screw adjustment or chip swap). Cold idle was high (around 3K) and fluctuated, like everyone has mentioned, though my warm idle was around 850-900rpm, with a pretty bitchin' roughness (think bigger cam). There were definate problems though. 1) CEL: came on intermittantly with P0171 (iirc) lean condition, especially while transitioning from idle to part throttle, though once cleared, this CEL would not come back while driving or coming back to a stop, which makes me want to rule out any sort of air leak. 2) Throttle response was lacking, and pretty disconnected..i.e. while shifting the engine would over-rev 500-1000rpm, and the car seemed to lack any real grunt anywhere in the powerband. I have a scangauge, and could see I was getting full throttle operation. 3) When the car went into DFCO it would feel like I had just released the 'chuts! With the OEM TB DFCO is almost inperceptable, but with the unadjusted 1ZZ TB it was pretty uncomfortable feeling. 4) Heel-toe downshifting was pretty much impossible as well due to lack of fine rev control, and a wierd over-rev/under-rev (the car stalled itself twice) on deceleration. These symptoms were consistant over more than 3 hours of driving. On Monday afternoon, I removed the 1ZZ TB and swapped out the chip with the OEM 1NZ chip. I did this without disconnecting the battery, as I wanted to see how big a difference this swap would make, all other things being equal. BIG DIFFERENCE! 1) High Cold idle lasts about half as long. Also, there is no ocillation. The rpms just go straight to 2500-2700, and then slowly taper back down. 2) The idle is also much more stable (like stock), with no (albeit cool) roughness. Now I got to work setting the correct idle speed. For some reason, the epoxy over the idle set screw on my 1ZZ TB came off nice and easy, an in one piece. After a few minutes idleing, the engine settled to about 1K rpm, which set off a CEL (I think P0220 iirc(TB stuck open)). I adjusted the screw to the point of killing the engine (which triggered another CEL (P0505...bad idle)). I then screwed the idle set screw back in about half way, which when the engine was turned back on, gave me an idle of about 850 rpm. I then shut the engine back off and adjusted the screw back out about a turn, which (when the engine was turned back on) gave me a nice stable (and smooth) 720-750rpm. Note: The idle speed in the last 1500+ miles has settled down to 600-700 rpm, which I would attribute to ECU trimming. Based on the manual, this is as high as you can go without running the risk of getting a "bad idle" CEL. This idle rpm also makes leaving stoplights a little better in that the engine doesn't bog quite as much. A note on setting the idle: Adjustments should be made with the engine and ignition off, as doing the adjustment with the engine running will only cause the ECU to compensate to maintain the idle speed, almost regardless of the idle set screw position (took me 10 min. to figure that out). Driving impressions: 1) Throttle response is better than stock, and the car pulls like a motha' (well....way more than with the stock TB) above 2200 rpms. 2) Heel-toe downshifting is better than stock (rpms come up a little faster, and with a little more "control" (i.e. a little tap gives a few hundred rpm (great for the 5th-4th shift), and a bigger dab gives about 1000 rpm (great for 4th-3rd, and 3rd-2nd shifts). Once the idle was set there have been no CELs of any kind, and the car is a riot to drive! As far as I'm concerned...this is a must-do mod for anyone with the stomach to do the chip swap (drilling out that first rivet is mentally the hard part), though the idle adjustment is pretty much a requirment to make this thing feel right. A big THANK YOU to T-sport for the diy (and having the nuts to do this in the first place)! Side note: I also did the TB coolent bypass. My other mods are as follows : Simota Carbon SRI (the big box), WR header, Thermal axle-back, and nology hotwires, running Shell V-Power and Motul 300V 5W-30.

05-24-2009, 12:25 AM	#5
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	http://www.qvc.com/qic/qvcapp.aspx/v...&cm_ite=V28297 I have a set of these, and they work pretty well. I got them at ACE Hardware.

05-24-2009, 12:32 AM	#6
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	Thanks... will try that on my next day off.

05-24-2009, 12:36 AM	#7
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	Now that the head is totally shot, should I replace the original screw with something else?

05-24-2009, 01:03 AM	#8
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Yes...take it to ACE and get a standard metric allen socket head cap screw (I think it's an M3 diameter with .5mm thread pitch...but I'm not 100% sure). I think you'll want something about 40-50mm long.

05-24-2009, 11:24 AM	#9
marcus toyota View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: toronto, canada Posts: 3,637	remind people thats gonna do this to play around with that screw before to put it on!!

05-26-2009, 01:10 PM	#10
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Right on!

06-04-2009, 10:20 AM	#11
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	I finally adjusted the idle screw and haven't got thrown a CEL yet and the start-up oscillation appears to be gone, but now the engine does a weird thing at idle. The RPMs drop very low (around 400) and the car starts to shudder like it's gonna stall out, then the engine revs itself up to about 1,500 RPM for a second. It keeps doing this over and over until I finally turn the car off for fear it's gonna stall. It's even worse when I'm idling with the A/C on. Also getting some jerkiness in the pedal when it enters DFCO.

06-05-2009, 11:00 AM	#12
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	turn the screw clockwise a half turn with the engine off. That should make it better. Also, if a half turn isnt enough, keep turning in half turn increments (with the engine off).

06-06-2009, 12:54 PM	#14
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	you might have gotten a bad throttle body. maybe you should order the one through cali yaris.

06-07-2009, 01:17 PM	#16
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	It's a 1zz TB, with the Yaris chip module already swapped on...also, we remove all of the epoxy on the idle set screw and make a preliminary adjustment to get you in the ballpark.