Warning - Broken control arm bolt!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by esse10

Question for you folks that used the Copper anti-seize, Did you put the anti-seize on the bolt threads also and did you still torque the bolt to the specs of 118 ft-lbs ? We don't get any salt on the roads down here in Texas but i will remove and inspect these bolts and depending on what condition I find I'll decide what Preventive Maintenance schedule will be required in the future.

Next question; is there a way to get Toyota corp. to acknowledge this problem and send me a letter about the extended warranty? I called my local dealer and the warranty office person acted like she had never heard of such a problem, even after I mentioned the TSB3271.

I thoroughly coated the threads and the washer portion of the head and torqued them to spec.

[CB900F2]

Hi WildChild..

It’s been a while, but did your invoice note the TSB # you indicted in the previous reply was issued in 2012?

Originally Posted by WildChild

The repair was done this morning, free of charge.

[barryware]

I changed my bolts today.. Drivers side was a problem.. The rust was so heavy on the bolt, it would not clear the bushing.. I had to back & forth, in & out.. Took about 1/2 hour to get it out. Passenger side was not much of a problem.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by barryware

I changed my bolts today.. Drivers side was a problem.. The rust was so heavy on the bolt, it would not clear the bushing.. I had to back & forth, in & out.. Took about 1/2 hour to get it out. Passenger side was not much of a problem.

Wow! That looks like it would not have lasted through this coming winter.

[barryware]

real glad I visit the forum often and found this thread..

FYI.. When I was at the stealer to buy the bolts.. I brought my letter from Toyota.. I asked if they would check.. They said if they are not broke, we won't replace'em.. Sounds kinda silly but that is the way of the stealer.

The letter extends the warranty to 100K miles.. My car has 97K+ so that is why I figured I would just buy the bolts & replace'em.

And.. 120 (118) foot pounds of torque is a $hit load when you are on your back, tugging on $hit!. Me thinks I'm gonna be sore tomorrow.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by barryware

They said if they are not broke, we won't replace'em

Sounds kinda silly but that is the way of the stealer.:

. I think I'm glad () I was way past the warranty period when I first viewed this thread. Zero chance of being disappointed on that particular score.

[CTScott]

I keep forgetting to post that this now includes 2007 to 2012 Yaris per T-SB-0078-12.

The newer TSB no longer specifies VIN range, but rather just says that:

"Some 2007 – 2012 model year Yaris vehicles may exhibit a noise from the front area that is heard under acceleration/deceleration, when braking, or when driving over an uneven road surface. New No. 2 front lower suspension arm bolts are now available to address this condition."

The current bolt part number per the TSB is: 90119-14151

It also mentions that some bolts may have and orange dot on the head and those that do are non-reusable, where ones without the orange dot can be removed and retorqued.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I keep forgetting to post that this now includes 2007 to 2012 Yaris per T-SB-0078-12.

The newer TSB no longer specifies VIN range, but rather just says that:

"Some 2007 – 2012 model year Yaris vehicles may exhibit a noise from the front area that is heard under acceleration/deceleration, when braking, or when driving over an uneven road surface. New No. 2 front lower suspension arm bolts are now available to address this condition."

The current bolt part number per the TSB is: 90119-14151

It also mentions that some bolts may have and orange dot on the head and those that do are non-reusable, where ones without the orange dot can be removed and retorqued.

Earlier posts of yours (IIRC) indicated that the old part number ended in 126 (for 2006-2009?) and the other part number (not ending in 151) = for 2010+....and that 151 replaces both part numbers so that the full range = one part number rather than two. When I visited the dealer, the parts rep indicated = exactly as you described (however that was ).

The tech today (at the shop, not the Toyota dealer) had some other reference nomenclature for this bolt, so I just logged on and showed the manager the picture of the bottom of your Yaris with the red circles you put around the two bolt locations. So clear. The manager was then able to easily communicate this to the tech .

I remember noticing, when I picked up the new bolts at the dealer, a 'raised stamp' (forgive the Layman's term ) that I assumed indicated that they each = a 'No. 2'.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by nookandcrannycar

Earlier posts of yours (IIRC) indicated that the old part number ended in 126 (for 2006-2009?) and the other part number (not ending in 151) = for 2010+....and that 151 replaces both part numbers so that the full range = one part number rather than two. When I visited the dealer, the parts rep indicated = exactly as you described (however that was ).

The tech today (at the shop, not the Toyota dealer) had some other reference nomenclature for this bolt, so I just logged on and showed the manager the picture of the bottom of your Yaris with the red circles you put around the two bolt locations. So clear. The manager was then able to easily communicate this to the tech .

I remember noticing, when I picked up the new bolts at the dealer, a 'raised stamp' (forgive the Layman's term ) that I assumed indicated that they each = a 'No. 2'.

The 90119-14151 part number is all inclusive for 07-12 liftbacks and sedans.

The raised markings on the head actually indicate the grade (strength) of the bolt. The "No. 2" is just the name of the bolts relative to their position.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The raised markings on the head actually indicate the grade (strength) of the bolt. The "No. 2" is just the name of the bolts relative to their position.

Oh . Well, I assume all is correct re those bolts on my Yaris. When the manager saw the picture of the underside of your Yaris with the red circles you drew, he said something about that being it..that he could tell from the head of the bolt. I got the old bolts back (in my hands when I left), and driving = .

[CTScott]

OK - This finally got me good. I decided to change the bolts on an 07 LB that I recently bought from someone in Ohio and I barley got the first one out without it snapping (and could not believe how bad it was). The second one snapped with barely any force applied, so I am now in the process of figuring out how to get it out.

In the meantime, here's a picture of the first one. The pile of stuff next to it came pouring out of its hole, once I removed the bolt.

Control Arm Bolt - Rusted.jpg

[WeeYari]

OMG that is nasty. Now I'm truly scared shitless to see what they look like on my '06. She's now entering her 9th winter.

[NEexpat]

This is exactly why I haven't attempted to replace these myself ".....so I am now in the process of figuring out how to get it out."

I check mine periodically to see if the bolt heads are still there and whenever the yari is at the dealer I ask them to check them, they always say they are fine. Of course I don't know what their "inspection" involves.

Scott let us know what wizardary you employ to get that out. I would guess some drilling and a broken bolt extractor. Big extractor.

One day I may slide under there with a breaker bar and give them a crack, I won't be doing it in my garage or driveway, I'll be doing it in the big chain parking lot adjacent to the dealer so if I shear one off, I'll be about 200 yards away.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by NEexpat

This is exactly why I haven't attempted to replace these myself ".....so I am now in the process of figuring out how to get it out."

I check mine periodically to see if the bolt heads are still there and whenever the yari is at the dealer I ask them to check them, they always say they are fine. Of course I don't know what their "inspection" involves.

Scott let us know what wizardary you employ to get that out. I would guess some drilling and a broken bolt extractor. Big extractor.

One day I may slide under there with a breaker bar and give them a crack, I won't be doing it in my garage or driveway, I'll be doing it in the big chain parking lot adjacent to the dealer so if I shear one off, I'll be about 200 yards away.

Right now I am thinking that your course of action is the smart one. I sill do not have it out yet. The nut that it screws into is at the top, so drilling up from the bottom to use the bolt extractor will likely result in just snapping the bolt off half way up.

I tried dropping the subframe to give me access to the broken bolt, but that bolt jams the subframe into place, where I can not pry it off of the car. I am now working in the passenger foot well to gain access to the top of the bolt. I realized that the triangular plastic piece under the carpet is in about the correct place for the top of the bolt. Unfortunately the bolt is offset to the hole, where I can see it, but accessing it requires drilling a hole above it.

I drilled a 3/4" access hole directly above it, as I realized with another one of the bolts that a 12mm socket grips the taper of the top of the bolt. Unfortunately though the 12mm pops off when you apply serious torque, so I think my next attempt will be a bolt extractor from above.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by NEexpat

This is exactly why I haven't attempted to replace these myself ".....so I am now in the process of figuring out how to get it out."

I check mine periodically to see if the bolt heads are still there and whenever the yari is at the dealer I ask them to check them, they always say they are fine. Of course I don't know what their "inspection" involves.

Scott let us know what wizardary you employ to get that out. I would guess some drilling and a broken bolt extractor. Big extractor.

One day I may slide under there with a breaker bar and give them a crack, I won't be doing it in my garage or driveway, I'll be doing it in the big chain parking lot adjacent to the dealer so if I shear one off, I'll be about 200 yards away.

I'm so glad I recently got new bolts and had them put in. The heads looked good, but there was rust on the threads of both of my original bolts (and my Yaris has only been exposed to fewer than 10 days of 'wimpy snow' here and not many more days re ice exposure.....and, IIRC, zero road salt exposure). We do, however, get a fair amount of rain from big storms that dump quite a bit of rain in a short period of time .

The head of the bolt, at least in some cases, doesn't seem to tell the whole story. This leads me to think that the only way to thoroughly check them is to remove them.....and if you're going to do that, or have it done, they might as well be replaced with new ones.

[CTScott]

^Indeed. The heads on both of these looked fine, which is why I gave them a go.

I finally broken the sub frame free. The only thing holding it was the bond between the bolt and its metal sleeve on the A arm. A couple hours of PB Blaster, pounding, prying, torching, and bleeding and it suddenly popped free.

Tomorrow I will weld a nut onto the bolt and see if I can free it.


Control Arm Bolt - Broken.jpg

[CB900F2]

^^^^^^ dam!! I sure hope the tsb that what done my yaris a couple of years ago resolved this issue...

[nookandcrannycar]

^^^^^ Wow, that is quite a sight. Better if the break hadn't happened at all, but thank goodness it didn't happen while the 'Ohio owner' was driving the car (we all know it wouldn't happen if you decided to drive it for even a week before selling it.....would have to meet your standard first).