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01-25-2009, 10:18 AM | #19 | |
daily driver
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to be honest, i wouldnt being doing this in the cold....im not sure how the gasket maker will set up when its as cold as it is right now.... when i did mine it was in sept of 2008....so it wasnt too cold yet but for the record you SHOULD be disconnecting the battery when you swap tb's....itll reset the ecu so the car can relearn on the new tb. let it idle for about 10min and then youre off. also, not a mod id keep on the car in winter due to the high idle when the engine is cold...
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01-25-2009, 07:15 PM | #20 | |
Drives: Yaris Sedan Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: MayaWest, Puerto Rico
Posts: 1,574
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Quote:
I still have 1zz and still oscilates, its and Iddle malfunction. I have installed the stock one a few times and you HAVE to disconect the batery and before the installation of any of the TB. And as thebarber said it take about 10 min for the car to iddle rigth after you put the 1zz TB.
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I Drive a 129whp Yaris ;) |
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01-27-2009, 12:41 AM | #21 |
Drives: 08' HB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SATX
Posts: 117
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I explained to you in the PM how to clear the ECU instantly and apply the sealant; also you must adjust the throttle stop!
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0 - 60 in 3 shifts
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01-27-2009, 12:52 AM | #22 |
Super Moderator
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Could you post that info up here for those of us that are getting ready to do this mod? TIA
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Last edited by tk-421; 01-27-2009 at 01:04 AM. |
01-27-2009, 01:42 AM | #23 |
Vroom Vroom Beep Beep
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I never knew about adjusting the throttle stop.
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Ever blown out an R-200 diff god know's I have |
01-27-2009, 10:07 PM | #24 |
well, I guess I messed up and didnt pay attention with the ECU and the gasket, however I will try to explain what is involved to the best of my ability so far, will add pictures later on.
Remove whichever aftermarket intake you have installed, or remove the stock airbox by: Unclasping the two clips holding the filter cover - use a flathead screwdriver to remove the round clamp holding the air tube to the box, and remove the tube from the throttle body opening. remove the MAF sensor plug from the top of the stock airbox. - Remove the top cover and air filter, and set aside to give you room to work. Remove the TB-ECU plug from the right side of the Throttle Body, use a 10mm socket to remove the bracket that holds the wire bundle to the throttle body. At this point if you havent already, remove the negative clamp from the battery and lay off to the side where it cannot touch either of the battery terminals. (what I did-)Have a couple mid-size wire nuts handy, and remove the lower/front coolant line to the throttle body, and plug the line with the wire nut so no coolant leaks out. Use the 10mm socket to remove the uppermost 2 bolts holding the large coolant return line. remove the next 2 bolts holding the bracket on to the throttle body and set the bracket aside. Unclasp the second coolant line from the clip that was under the large coolant return line to free up slack to work with. use the other wire nut to plug the second coolant line for now. Use the 10mm socket to remove the three remaining nuts and the one lower left bolt from the drivers-side facing side of the throttle body. gently pull the throttle body toward the drivers side of the engine bay untill if comes free from the gasket (ensure you have the gasket in your hand after removing the TB, mine stuck to the Throttle Body and fell off before I realized it was there, lol) -- Prepare the 1zz throttle body by removing any foreign dirt, grease, or whatever. hold the throttle body Inlet facing you, ECU plug on your right, and you should see the throttle stop screw on the upper right-hand side, may or may not be covered by clear apoxy, regardless, you will need to remove the apoxy if it is present. You will need a small (not sure of size) allen wrench to adjust the idle. (((((--------Let me know if I am not correct about this section-- Use the gasket maker as pointed out by thebarber on the previous page to make a consistant ring around the manifold side of the throttle body, let set for a few minutes, and place and slide the 1zz throttle body over the three bolts protruding from the intake manifold. Thread on the nuts and the one reverse facing bolt in an alternating pattern to ensure a good seal, as well as when you torque them down (not sure of ft/lbs to torque to). -----------------------))))) Re-Assemble in reverse of above. When you get the intake back on, making sure both coolant lines, the TB plug, and the MAF is reconnected, reconnect the negative battery terminal, (if car is COLD) remove the coolant cover (not resivoire) and start the engine. Before the coolant heats up, alternate squeezing the coolant lines coming and going to the throttle body untill you get no more bubbles, or the coolant starts to rise (as this means its heating up) replace the coolant cap, shut off the car, and wait for it to cool down, and repeat untill no more bubbles come out of the coolant. when there are no more bubbles in the coolant, you can replace the cover for good, and start the car again. this time, let it idle for several minutes so that the engine is fully warm, and adjust the idle stop screw to your liking, I recommend between 500 and 1k rpm like stock. Apply apoxy to screw and let sit overnight. let me know if I forgot anything, and I will work on getting pictures. Last edited by AlexNet0; 01-27-2009 at 10:35 PM. |
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01-27-2009, 11:51 PM | #25 |
Super Moderator
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Thanks for the writeup! Looking forward to the pics... I'm sure they'll be quite helpful as well.
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01-31-2009, 03:05 PM | #26 | |
boohachimono
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Who knows what kind of juice melts the last bit of epoxy? |
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02-02-2009, 09:14 AM | #27 |
Drives: Toyota Vios Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Philippines
Posts: 2
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i read the whole thread and im still a bit confused...AlexNet0, were you able to resolve the problem with the idling by using the gasket maker and adjusment of the idle stop screw?how about the cold starting, what is the rpm that you are getting?..is the TB that you installed DBW or the cable type?
im thinking of also doing this mod but i feel a bit apprehensive based on reading this :) .. |
02-02-2009, 09:45 PM | #28 |
cold start idle was 2.7k-3k, it was my own mistake with the oscillating by NOT using the gasket maker, I have no doubt that when I put the 1zz TB back in using the gasket maker I wont have any issues.
I dont think ul have a cold idle problem in the Philippines |
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02-03-2009, 10:16 PM | #29 |
Anybody know how to get the epoxy off safely?
I plan on putting the one I just got on this weekend. Way cool thread here. I appreciate all that everyone has contributed on this one. BTW, I already have CAI, catback, NST pulleys, and header. This is the last engine mod I can do without a turbo install.
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AEM CAI, NST Pulleys/SSK, WR 4-2-1 Header, TRD axelback, R1 Concept Rotors, TRD Sway Bar, Nitto Rear Strut Bar, Cusco GT-Zero Coilovers, 1ZZ-FE 1.8L TB |
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02-10-2009, 06:27 PM | #30 |
what did you do tho stop the oscillation?
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02-10-2009, 08:02 PM | #31 |
Don't get in a rush and crank the car before the gasket maker is set. I made a big mess in my intake by getting ahead of myself.
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AEM CAI, NST Pulleys/SSK, WR 4-2-1 Header, TRD axelback, R1 Concept Rotors, TRD Sway Bar, Nitto Rear Strut Bar, Cusco GT-Zero Coilovers, 1ZZ-FE 1.8L TB |
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02-10-2009, 09:54 PM | #32 |
Oh ok, so the ecu reset cured the oscillation
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02-11-2009, 06:52 AM | #33 |
daily driver
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02-11-2009, 07:00 AM | #34 |
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AEM CAI, NST Pulleys/SSK, WR 4-2-1 Header, TRD axelback, R1 Concept Rotors, TRD Sway Bar, Nitto Rear Strut Bar, Cusco GT-Zero Coilovers, 1ZZ-FE 1.8L TB |
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02-11-2009, 08:24 AM | #35 |
He probably did something with the blitz throttle controller, says he has one on the cardomain link
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02-11-2009, 08:51 AM | #36 |
daily driver
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i dont see how that would help...
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