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#1 |
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Super Moderator
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You should check that the power cables aren't shorting out on you. I had to resolder mine a few weeks ago. Hopefully that will fix your issue.
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Decepticon - Ravage Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,464
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Does that mean open up the control box? Ill take a look at all solder points when i put it back in the car tomorrow.
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#3 |
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Super Moderator
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Nope, I'm talking about the power cables that get connected to the OBD port. I was getting limp mode every time I pressed the clutch pedal and it turned out that the power cable got tangled up a bit.
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Decepticon - Ravage Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,464
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That explains the clicking sounds (same sound the box makes when changing modes) when I gently tug on the cables. Thank for the tech tip
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#5 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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Quote:
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: the good Carolina
Posts: 173
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Just mat it when the light turns green
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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| Tags |
| body, cable, electronic, thottle |
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