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#37 |
![]() ![]() Drives: Black 5-Spd Sedan S Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 81
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I know the reverse shudder you guys are talking about, but this is totally different :)
I'm not sure how to better describe it, but I haven't had it happen at all now that I learned how to drive Yaris-Stick-Shift®, It's re-assuring to see so many people notice this at least sometimes! |
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#38 |
![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 36
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Clutches are designed with slippage in mind. If that is not built into the car then the designers weren't thinking far enough ahead.
Dumping the clutch is a shock to the rest of the drive train. The initial (breakaway) torque is much higher and stresses the components down the line. When initial torque is low (ie. when you feather the clutch) the stress on the passive drive train components is much lower. You should really be trying to make your ride as smooth as possible, since that is what modern passenger vehicles are designed for. That means feathering the clutch into 1st, probably 2nd, and also probably 3rd. 4th and 5th gears tend to be at such a high ratio (>1) that they don't put much load on the engine. All that aside, my 3rd gear requires a bit more force to shift into than all of the other gears (except reverse.) 1, 2, 4, and 5 pretty much slide right in, but 3rd requires more of a push to put it there. I bought the car used, so I'm hoping that it's just a quirk and not something that the previous owner did. |
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#39 |
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Super Moderator
Drives: Yaris 2DR LB 07, MT, Abs. Red Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 5,155
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Hey, Wattz, welcome to the forum!!
I bought mine used, too, with 55K miles; 2d, 3rd, 4th and 5th are PERFECT (knock on wood). First is a pain, real stiff, especially first thing in the morning. Here is an article on clutch control in Wikipedia, in case anyone is interested. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clutch_control |
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#40 |
![]() Drives: 07 Yaris Hatch, Manual Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: socal
Posts: 4
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I had the same clutch shutter develop at around 17k miles. Dealer "couldn't reproduce the issue". 20k miles, shutter went away, turned into slippage when under throttle alone. Brought it into the dealer ready for a big battle (they were much better about it this time around). Turns out there is a faulty seal in the tranny which leaks oil into the bell housing - clutch and flywheel destroyed. Toyota knows about this issue, the replacement seal is a different one (and requires tranny to be pulled apart to replace). Clutch shuttering is not normal, bring your car in and make them fix it. I just hope the new seal holds up, its almost a $2k repair bill at the dealership if out of warranty
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#41 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: Black 5-Spd Sedan S Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 81
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Quote:
Thank you for the heads up
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#42 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 LB Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Nappanee, IN
Posts: 60
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Quote:
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#43 | |
![]() Drives: 07 Yaris Hatch, Manual Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: socal
Posts: 4
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Quote:
nope, it seemed to be isolated in the bell housing - unfortunately means dopping the tranny to check. At first I thought it was just being difficult because of the varying throttle response, but then realized it was all clutch. The service manager had seen so few manuals, he was unaware of the issue. He heard about it after contacting some regional rep sorta person guy. When I got the car back, it felt more solid than when I first bought the car. New clutch engagement point was right at the floor, seemed a little weird, but felt like all the power was getting to the wheels. Now, a few weeks later, the engagement point is quite a bit higher and feels like a more "normal" engagement point. Not sure if this shift is normal break in for a new clutch or if its a bad sign of things to come. I sure hope it's the former. ooon look, a vomit emoticon, neaT ![]() EDIT: Forgot to mention, this was a definite clutch shudder with throttle applied, not the shaking one feels when bogging the engine down by not providing enough throttle Last edited by fastscutr; 11-13-2009 at 12:40 PM. |
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#44 |
![]() ![]() Drives: Black 5-Spd Sedan S Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 81
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Yep, exactly, this is what I think I had a hard time explaining in this thread lol, you know what I'm talking about!
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#45 |
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Just give it the full beans it won't shudder!
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#46 |
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Banned
Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 189
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Burnt clutch, warped pressure plate....this studdering can happen....often caused by new drivers of manual trannys, or anyone that does not know how to shift properly.
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#47 |
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I've never had any issues with any of the 3 manual transmission toyota's I've owned my 87 mr2 is still good. I put 65k on my first gen xB and 6k on my yaris. They all have performed well without incident.
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#48 |
![]() Drives: 07 Yaris Hatch, Manual Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: socal
Posts: 4
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#49 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Big Yellow Join Date: May 2009
Location: Somewhere in the vacinity of Betelgeuse
Posts: 179
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Quote:
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#50 |
![]() ![]() Drives: Black 5-Spd Sedan S Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 81
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Let us know what they say. As a follow up, I've gotten on my Yaris pretty good a few times (in addition to normal driving), the shudder is most certainly gone! I really think it had something to do with clutch break in, and now at 5,000 miles it's long broken in.
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#51 |
![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris 3dr Hatch/Black Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Deep South
Posts: 114
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The clutch chatter in my Yaris has gotten to be a real issue. So many of you have reported it that you should take a clue: defective design! My xB1 did not have this bad of a problem.
Here's what I think: The Yaris is geared taller than my xB so it doesn't have the same mechanical advantage when pulling the car off the line. The Yaris fly-by-wire ECU was designed to sip as little fuel as possible. Makes it easier to kill, especially with the dead feel of the clutch and throttle. My clutch chatter just got worse over time and my dealer will not recognize it as a problem which tells me it's an "unknown" problem. (Nothing official.) |
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#52 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 07 Yaris LB Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 177
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Sometimes happens to me but only when it’s cold, and if I release the clutch too quick I get the shudder in reverse is even trickier, but when the engine is warm it doesn't happen to me, I try to drive it softly while it warms up and it happens much less
I’ve driven all my life stick, this where my cars in the past and I experienced it in all of them 2007 Yaris LB (current) 2003 Nissan 350Z 2005 Scion TC 2001 Daewoo Lanos Sport 1989 Honda Accord 2 DR 1996 Renault Twingo For the Yaris and The Scion TC I had to re adjust to the clutch. It took me like a month to feel comfortable with the clutch. Is also good to mention that this feeling sometimes can be confused with a flywheel that needs must be resurfaced or replaced, this can happen due to exesive heat when clutch is not used properly or abused. |
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#53 |
![]() Drives: 07 Yaris Hatch, Manual Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: socal
Posts: 4
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clutch is now starting to slip for me again after about 3k miles since last replaced under warrantee. Occasionally getting locked out of 5th (don't even feel the shift gate when that happens). Like the other time, dealer won't do anything till it gets real bad and destroys the flywheel... It is still under warranty, but no longer fits my needs as reliable transportation - think its time for a new car... (2010 Subaru WRX :D )
Can't believe I have a British car that has proven to be more reliable (powered by Toyota engine/tranny though) ;P I wish you all the best of luck in getting a final long term solution to this problem |
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#54 |
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Banned
Drives: yw calls me douche and racist. Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: hay
Posts: 2,183
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So I installed the TRD roll stopper mount. Shudder went away.
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