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12-18-2008, 01:03 PM | #73 |
Banned
Drives: 2009 Yaris liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: CT
Posts: 350
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12-18-2008, 02:34 PM | #74 |
Drives: '08 liftback mt Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mn
Posts: 39
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12-18-2008, 04:28 PM | #75 |
Banned
Drives: 2009 Yaris liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: CT
Posts: 350
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It's not rocket science. If you think that you are going to get better gas mileage by going to a 5-20 from a 5-30 you are sadly, sadly mistaken. If you can explain to me how you are going to see a noticeable difference...I am open ears my friend. A few other reasons....I don't know what that means or what those are???? I assume that means nothing, which it does unless gid can come in explain these phantom things. And last but not least....better cold flow???? I mean, common man. Be real. Use what the car calls for...what it is designed and ENGINEERED to run on and yes, it being a motor driven via timing chain does make a difference. I could care less if you are with gid or not....go with the gid!
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12-18-2008, 04:42 PM | #76 |
SIPNDEW
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chup...he may see a .01 mpg variance... :)
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12-18-2008, 04:48 PM | #77 | |
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
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Quote:
Another good choice, for less money (found @ Napa) Nippon filter. PN: 3612412 |
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12-18-2008, 04:57 PM | #78 |
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
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I think we can calm down now, Gid hasn't used 5w-20 for quite some time now. Besides, Toyota's own TSB mentioned its "superiority in terms of fuel economy" ...so maybe fuel economy is improved, but Gid didn't like the extra engine noise and went back to using 5w-30
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12-19-2008, 01:19 AM | #79 |
Ok I did the following:
4quarts of Royal Purple 5w30 K&N Oil Filter I must say, I do feel a slight difference in performance, and smoothness of the engine now. Im happy. |
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12-19-2008, 11:42 AM | #80 |
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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I'm stickin' with the Toyota OEM filters. Bought a case.
I use whatever synth is on sale at PepBoys. 'nuff said..... |
12-30-2008, 01:02 PM | #81 |
Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 622
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My problem with "synthetic oil " in the u.S, it is a marketing term ONLY now and people are paying a lot of extra dough for a "false" product that does not even come close to full synthetic oils Like EUropean ELF (total brand) excellium, Fuchs and Motul E-tech and 300V. Americans have been lulled and fooled into incompetence and Ignorance on the subject and brainwashed by marketing. Fools you all! Almost ALL synthetic you buy in N.A is "fake". Only maybe Mobil 1 EP of various weights + 0W-40 euro formula; then the 0w-30 cult status (not earned) "gold" castrol DE and 0W40 castrol euro formula made in DE. is the real thing. We can ONLY guess since marketing allowances for refined petro oil to be called "synthetic" and the Brands tight lipped about constituents and I.P. Again , the Deutsch makken produit, not Estates Uni creativ, may afford you a real synthetic if you do not wish to scrounge the "gray-market" imports. These Yamaha designed, high specific output engines deserve or even REQUIRE high performance oil. They run HOT and will end up full of varnish with poor performance in under 10K if yo do not run the 'good stuff".
Last edited by TheSilkySmooth; 12-30-2008 at 01:08 PM. Reason: blind as a mole |
12-30-2008, 01:47 PM | #82 |
Banned
Drives: 2009 Yaris liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: CT
Posts: 350
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So I guess my question to you is....is Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic motor oil not what they say it is? In other words, is it not fully synthetic motor oil?
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12-30-2008, 02:04 PM | #83 |
Drives: '08 Yaris sedan , '08 Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northeast
Posts: 643
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not a " TRUE SYNTHETIC " like that of AMSOIL , REDLINE , etc..
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12-30-2008, 04:25 PM | #84 |
Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 622
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What is your understanding of a "fully synthetic" motor oil? What is a synthetic motor oil? Are there differing types of Synthetic lubricant molecules, and, which ones are better suited for which purposes? I would spend some time researching this. Most ALL people are ignorant on this subject and DON'T get your info off a forum.
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12-30-2008, 07:50 PM | #85 |
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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11-19-2009, 09:04 AM | #86 |
Drives: Yaris Sol 1.3 dual VVTi 101hp Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Turin - Piedmont - italy
Posts: 48
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sorry to bore again... but someone can drive me to a good site/ebay where to buy Amsoil oils? seems almost impossible to "export" a bottle of amsoil outside US. thx
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Yaris Sol 1.33 dual VVTi model 09 - 5dr 1. full ZX1 additive treatment: oil + cooler + fuel 2. NB treatment: motor oil 3. K&N panel air filter (part num. 33-2211) 4. Fuchs Silkolene Pro SRG 75 gear oil (the best!) 5. UltraRacing 19mm rear sway bar |
11-19-2009, 05:33 PM | #87 |
Drives: Blazing Blue 08 liftback Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Euless Texas
Posts: 241
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My understanding is that if as little as 10% of the oil is "sysnthetic" it can be called synthetic.
Obviously, as an Amsoil Dealer, I'd like you to consider using Amsoil. We have a Synthetic 0w-30 that can be used for 17,500 miles(or one year) miles under severe conditions. Our Synthetic 5w-30 is good for 15,000 miles(or one year) under severe conditions. Many other oils are good for OEM only drain intervals under these conditions. Check the fine print on the other labels. Amsoil can save you time, money and create less waste oil due to oil changes and it burns off at a lower rate then other oils. Check out my dealer page at TruLube.com. for more information
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One Year One Oil-AMSOIL at www.Trulube.com TRD Exhaust, Springs and Struts. TRD SSK. NST Underdrive Crank Pulley. Amsoil Dominator 10w-30 Racing Oil, Amsoil DOT4 brake fluid, Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90 transmission oil, Ultra Racing 23mm Sway Bar, Camber Bolts, R1 Drilled Slotted front Brakes and SS Brake cables from Micro-Image. Orange Konig Daylight 17s, Kumo MXs. Greg@TruLube.com Last edited by Lazerdot; 11-19-2009 at 05:35 PM. Reason: Spelling |
11-19-2009, 05:55 PM | #88 | |
Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 622
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Quote:
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11-22-2009, 10:44 AM | #89 |
Drives: Liftback Auto Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 64
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lol! @ anyone thinking the Yaris engine won't last 200k miles doing 5k OCI's on any modern oil that meets specs
my advice would be to use what's on sale |
11-24-2009, 11:26 AM | #90 |
Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 622
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The yaras 1NZ engine can be hard on the oil due to the inverted bucket tappets and the cam chain drive. Luckily the valve spring pressure is really light - IIRC about 40LBS closed - but you can still get galling of the lobe due to high ramp rates and mass acceleration at high rpm. The problem with PAO based synthetc is its not a good lubricant. That includes most amsoil and Mobil 1 (at least the M1 with majority PAO base), DIesters POE and AN synthetics have much a better inherent lubricity and polarity that PAO based syns lack. Source Motul and Fuchs silkolene for the "best" synthetic oils.
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