DIY: A/C Insulation - Page 6 - Toyota Yaris Forums

mikenacarato · 07-06-2009, 10:33 PM

first off, i wanna say i love this idea!!!

second, how long until the evap core freezes over? i would put some a/c gauges on it every now and then to see what your low side pressure reading is, if you notice it dropping then your evap core is freezing up and will cause the system to shut off.

texkid · 07-06-2009, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikenacarato

first off, i wanna say i love this idea!!!

second, how long until the evap core freezes over? i would put some a/c gauges on it every now and then to see what your low side pressure reading is, if you notice it dropping then your evap core is freezing up and will cause the system to shut off.

I thought there were safety features that would prevent that?

I guess someone should keep an eye on it and let us if we screwed something or maybe tweak it a bit more.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

Instead of aluminum tape, use heat/flame resistant wire loom:

It even comes in blue, red and black.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...o%20flex&dds=1

That is an awesome idea. I imagine one must cut a slit in order to wrap around the lines?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lazerdot

Did all but the area by the pullies. I put aluminum rap around the insulating foam and lightly tie wrapped the total. In my head ity seems cooler. Wish I had done a before after. But, can it hurt?

It should work. You be the judge. Does it feel cooler? I am noticing that I can now drive with the setting at (2) instead of the usual (3) or (4).

Quote:

Originally Posted by andaconda

Temp increased to 42 degrees when I turned the fan on 4.
I wish I would have taken it's temp before the mod.

I have been noticing that as well. I am assuming that it is only blowing the air faster without adjusting temperature to the A/C; essentially more quantity and less quality?

Nonetheless, it is not too bad since supposedly you get COLDER air when set to "recirculating".

Revsson · 07-07-2009, 01:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by texkid

That is an awesome idea. I imagine one must cut a slit in order to wrap around the lines?

That's what it tells you to do on the advertisement page.

Much nicer looking than the silver wrap, IMO.

Henry G. · 07-07-2009, 06:42 PM

Did mine today. I zip tied the foam as I went from one end to the other, then twisted/adjusted the foam, re-tightened the zipties as necessary and cut the ends off. I found the aluminum tape at Home Cheapo, a small roll (50 yards!) was 7 bucks and change, I saw the larger roll it was almost $15, the small roll is enough to do 20 cars at least.
I rotated the zip tie buckles to the rear before taping. As Anaconda mentioned the hot tip is to cut short pieces of tape, approx 6 inches long and wrap one section at a time, I used about a 1/4" overlap, and double wrapped the area closest to the header. IMO the header is likely responsible for most the heat warming the line, so I just did the back section across the firewall, the rest is too curvy and complicated for a clean wrap.
Half way there:

Finished:

I will check the result and see if I can feel the difference later today.
Good thread and DIY thanks guys.

Dage · 07-07-2009, 08:38 PM

It is not a good idea. theres a reason why toyota does not did that.

I work in refrigeration and climatisation.

The temperature of the air supply must never be lower than 50 degre F.

You need 20 degre F between the inlet and supply.

Your compressor will compress liquid refrigerant and its not good for longue time life.

without insulation, you gonna have better heat transfer for refrigerant vapor compress.

So, i don't think that is a good idea.

EasyDriver · 07-07-2009, 09:34 PM

I used pipe insulation only on mine and also did the lower area by the compressor. For the area by the engine mount and alternator pulley I took a 3" x 4" piece of aluminum dryer vent, bent it half mooned shape, over the low pressure line and over the low pressure line. I kind of wedged it in place firmly.

I get cold air in under 3 minutes...my vent thermometer (thanks for the tip on finding that texkid!). I'm reading 38 degrees vent temperature. I did not have the thermometer before the project, but I know it was not nearly as cold.

What kind of vent temperature are those of you that have used the aluminum tape getting?

yarisugi · 07-08-2009, 02:07 AM

ok... what?
Just want to make sure I got this right. Wrap only the fat tube on the top. Leave the skinny tube alone. Correct?

n00b · 07-08-2009, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yarisugi

ok... what?
Just want to make sure I got this right. Wrap only the fat tube on the top. Leave the skinny tube alone. Correct?

That's your choice. Wrap both if possible.

andaconda · 07-08-2009, 08:36 AM

Man, I'm I getting confused now...

Yaris Hilton · 07-08-2009, 09:48 AM

Might be the tetanus setting in...

Lafiro · 07-08-2009, 10:37 AM

I thought about this weeks ago and wanted to post this, but school and work and internship and other jobs are taking my life over.

Now that I see lots are doing this little trick, I will be going today to buy myself that foam.

Question is, what size diameter did you buy? Maybe home depot is a good place to buy it?

Thanks!

n00b · 07-08-2009, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PK198105

no need to wrap the second one , there is no point in wrapping it since the system needs to be hot on that side for the loop.

http://www.energyquest.ca.gov/how_it...nditioner.html

Quote:

When the working fluid leaves the condenser, its temperature is much cooler and it has changed from a gas to a liquid under high pressure. The liquid goes into the evaporator through a very tiny, narrow hole. On the other side, the liquid's pressure drops. When it does it begins to evaporate into a gas.

I guess you should just bypass the condenser then!

Quote:

Originally Posted by andaconda

Man, I'm I getting confused now...

The low pressure line is for refrigerant flowing to the compressor. The high pressure line is for refrigerant flowing into the cabin.

n00b · 07-08-2009, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PK198105

basically you want to keep whats cool cooler and whats warm warmer

Then Denso failed by making a better condenser that cools the refrigerant even more!

http://www.globaldensoproducts.com/c...condenser.html

EasyDriver · 07-08-2009, 09:42 PM

I got mine at Home Depot in the plumbing department. $1.38 for a 6 foot piece....all you'll need and then some. I thought I got the 1/2 inch ID, but I just measured a left over piece and it was 1 3/8 OD and 3/4 ID. I got the zip ties at Wallyworld, the 100 pack in the automotive area was less than $3...fortunately I didn't need a 100 though!

Good luck!

Lafiro · 07-08-2009, 02:34 PM

Off topic, but where in the world is the part that is growing mold and causing my air to stink really bad and give me breathing problems now?

Someone please help me with that because I have to fix this issue. Since today I am free and having major problems installing my fog lights, I can not go to the dealership. Already tried calling and they are having phone problems.

EasyDriver · 07-08-2009, 03:53 PM

try this discussion.....http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...d+cabin+filter

b_hickman11 · 07-08-2009, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lafiro

Off topic, but where in the world is the part that is growing mold and causing my air to stink really bad and give me breathing problems now?

Someone please help me with that because I have to fix this issue. Since today I am free and having major problems installing my fog lights, I can not go to the dealership. Already tried calling and they are having phone problems.

It has nothing to do with the cabin air filter.

Henry G. · 07-08-2009, 05:45 PM

Ok, with limited knowledge of the complexities of A/C system but with a brain and sense of touch this is easy: The big line (marked "L" on the fill/drain valve cap) is ICE COLD with the A/C on, the little line (marked "H" on the fill/drain valve) is hot. That tells me simply that it is THE BIG LINE that needs to be insulated as long as we agree the goal is to get COLD AIR from the A/C!
Try and argue that......
BTW I noticed a small but definite improvement from the wrapping I did yesterday so I will continue to do some more wrapping today....

07-07-2009, 09:34 PM	#6
EasyDriver Drives: 2008 Yaris Meteorite LB Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Southern Michigan Posts: 61	a/c insulation... I used pipe insulation only on mine and also did the lower area by the compressor. For the area by the engine mount and alternator pulley I took a 3" x 4" piece of aluminum dryer vent, bent it half mooned shape, over the low pressure line and over the low pressure line. I kind of wedged it in place firmly. I get cold air in under 3 minutes...my vent thermometer (thanks for the tip on finding that texkid!). I'm reading 38 degrees vent temperature. I did not have the thermometer before the project, but I know it was not nearly as cold. What kind of vent temperature are those of you that have used the aluminum tape getting?

07-08-2009, 09:42 PM	#14
EasyDriver Drives: 2008 Yaris Meteorite LB Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Southern Michigan Posts: 61	pipe insulation size... I got mine at Home Depot in the plumbing department. $1.38 for a 6 foot piece....all you'll need and then some. I thought I got the 1/2 inch ID, but I just measured a left over piece and it was 1 3/8 OD and 3/4 ID. I got the zip ties at Wallyworld, the 100 pack in the automotive area was less than $3...fortunately I didn't need a 100 though! Good luck!

07-08-2009, 03:53 PM	#16
EasyDriver Drives: 2008 Yaris Meteorite LB Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Southern Michigan Posts: 61	funky air... try this discussion.....http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...d+cabin+filter

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07-06-2009, 10:33 PM	#1
mikenacarato SIPNDEW View User's Garage Drives: 15 STI Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brentwood, TN Posts: 2,281	first off, i wanna say i love this idea!!! second, how long until the evap core freezes over? i would put some a/c gauges on it every now and then to see what your low side pressure reading is, if you notice it dropping then your evap core is freezing up and will cause the system to shut off.

07-07-2009, 06:42 PM	#4
Henry G. Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: May 2009 Location: So Cal. Posts: 100	Did mine today. I zip tied the foam as I went from one end to the other, then twisted/adjusted the foam, re-tightened the zipties as necessary and cut the ends off. I found the aluminum tape at Home Cheapo, a small roll (50 yards!) was 7 bucks and change, I saw the larger roll it was almost $15, the small roll is enough to do 20 cars at least. I rotated the zip tie buckles to the rear before taping. As Anaconda mentioned the hot tip is to cut short pieces of tape, approx 6 inches long and wrap one section at a time, I used about a 1/4" overlap, and double wrapped the area closest to the header. IMO the header is likely responsible for most the heat warming the line, so I just did the back section across the firewall, the rest is too curvy and complicated for a clean wrap. Half way there: Finished: I will check the result and see if I can feel the difference later today. Good thread and DIY thanks guys.

07-07-2009, 08:38 PM	#5
Dage Drives: Yaris rs 2008 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Québec Canada Posts: 2	It is not a good idea. theres a reason why toyota does not did that. I work in refrigeration and climatisation. The temperature of the air supply must never be lower than 50 degre F. You need 20 degre F between the inlet and supply. Your compressor will compress liquid refrigerant and its not good for longue time life. without insulation, you gonna have better heat transfer for refrigerant vapor compress. So, i don't think that is a good idea.

07-08-2009, 02:07 AM	#7
yarisugi やりすぎだ～ View User's Garage Drives: Me: Nuts: Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: ハワイ Posts: 2,041	ok... what? Just want to make sure I got this right. Wrap only the fat tube on the top. Leave the skinny tube alone. Correct?

07-08-2009, 08:36 AM	#9
andaconda View User's Garage Drives: '09 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Montana Posts: 73	Man, I'm I getting confused now...

07-08-2009, 09:48 AM	#10
Yaris Hilton Half a Bubble Off Plumb Drives: 2009 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA Posts: 1,593	Might be the tetanus setting in...

07-08-2009, 10:37 AM	#11
Lafiro Drives: 06 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: NYC Posts: 694	I thought about this weeks ago and wanted to post this, but school and work and internship and other jobs are taking my life over. Now that I see lots are doing this little trick, I will be going today to buy myself that foam. Question is, what size diameter did you buy? Maybe home depot is a good place to buy it? Thanks!

07-08-2009, 02:34 PM	#15
Lafiro Drives: 06 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: NYC Posts: 694	Off topic, but where in the world is the part that is growing mold and causing my air to stink really bad and give me breathing problems now? Someone please help me with that because I have to fix this issue. Since today I am free and having major problems installing my fog lights, I can not go to the dealership. Already tried calling and they are having phone problems.

07-08-2009, 05:45 PM	#18
Henry G. Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: May 2009 Location: So Cal. Posts: 100	Ok, with limited knowledge of the complexities of A/C system but with a brain and sense of touch this is easy: The big line (marked "L" on the fill/drain valve cap) is ICE COLD with the A/C on, the little line (marked "H" on the fill/drain valve) is hot. That tells me simply that it is THE BIG LINE that needs to be insulated as long as we agree the goal is to get COLD AIR from the A/C! Try and argue that...... BTW I noticed a small but definite improvement from the wrapping I did yesterday so I will continue to do some more wrapping today....