How do I cure a lean condition? - Page 6 - Toyota Yaris Forums

rpalai · 03-18-2009, 03:54 PM

Hello again all! Hope you are all doing well. Unfortunately, I am not! My car ran GREAT from the moment the Blitz system was installed as well as all last night and early this morning until the very last time I started it up, it threw a code and the check engine light came on. When I hook up my scanner, it shows the code as "pending" which probably is why it keeps doing it even after I clear the code with my scanner. Can someone help me with this? Whenever it throws the code, it goes into "limp mode" and becomes rather doggy of course. It is showing code P01387 which means that "voltage too high in 02 sensor 1 Bank 2", or something like that. Now I know that my mechanic told me that he had a problem getting the old 02 sensor out of the factory exhaust header to transfer it over to the new Meagan Racing header, but he WAS able to do it after he had to soak it in a LOT of PV Blaster penetrating oil for awhile. But that was now a couple of days ago and all of the PVBlaster should have burned off the 02 sensor by now, unless perhaps it destroyed it in the process? I can not figure this out. I am really bummed now becuase every time I start the car, it throws the same darned code and goes into limp mode again.

Can anyone please help me with this? Thanks!
Rich
rpalai

kurokoma-kun · 03-18-2009, 05:47 PM

Here's what the repair manual has to say about P0138, O2 sensor high voltage:

"...when the air-fuel ratio is richer than the stoichiometric air-fuel level, the oxygen concentration in the exhaust gas becomes lean. The HO2 sensor informs the ECM that the post-TWC air-fuel ratio is rich (high voltage, i.e. more than 0.45 V). The HO2 sensor has the property of changing its output voltage drastically when the air-fuel ratio is close to the stoichiometric level."

So IMO he'll be wanting to pinpoint the cause of the extremely rich air-fuel ratio (injectors, fuel pressure, exhaust leak, etc.) in addition to checking the sensor itself.

You can find the entire Engine Control manual and many others here, hosted by our own etimago --> http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/

PS-- you may get better response if you start your own thread for issues like this

it's too important to get buried among other info.

largeorangefont · 03-18-2009, 07:22 PM

Noogie,

What we need you do do is to do a WOT pull to redline from around 2000 RPM in 2nd.

Strap that camera down :)

Again, from the shots you provided I don't think you have anything to worry about.

whooppee777 · 03-18-2009, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by largeorangefont

Again, from the shots you provided I don't think you have anything to worry about.

those are about the same readings i get.

if the lights on the gauge read 14ish and the lights around the edges are still in the green then ur mixture is good. right?

largeorangefont · 03-18-2009, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whooppee777

those are about the same readings i get.

if the lights on the gauge read 14ish and the lights around the edges are still in the green then ur mixture is good. right?

Not necessarily. If you timing is in the single digits, then yea it is probably OK. If not, those numbers are not OK.

PETERPOOP · 04-07-2009, 03:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by largeorangefont

Noogie,

What we need you do do is to do a WOT pull to redline from around 2000 RPM in 2nd.

Strap that camera down :)

Again, from the shots you provided I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Did you ever do this?

LtNoogie · 04-07-2009, 09:45 AM

No. I'm built a new camera mount but the digital camera died. I'm going to get some data logging software to collect data a little bit better than shaky videos.

Doc Zaius · 04-07-2009, 11:07 AM

For what it's worth, I've been watching my IGN on the SG. At idle, it typically is around 5, jumps to 10 every once in a while. When the defrost is on (and I guess A/C kicks in), the RPMs drop momentarily, and the IGN drops to -5 or -6... then back to +5.

Also when cruising and off-boost (TPS < 25), IGN is around 35. Drops to around 15-20 when boosting.

LtNoogie · 04-07-2009, 02:02 PM

But don't you get highest performance with more ignition advance? ... like around 20? Are we running in less than optimal mode? With the S/C turned off, my ignition is much more advanced.

TOLMACH · 03-21-2013, 12:11 PM

nice

cali yaris · 03-21-2013, 05:15 PM

TOLMACH · 03-21-2013, 11:40 PM

Nice meant I need to read this some time in the future and not waste time searching for this thread )) (Think outside the box))))

03-18-2009, 03:54 PM	#91
rpalai View User's Garage Drives: 2008 NEW Yaris 2-door Liftback Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 19	Help!! Having a Blitz-related problem!! Hello again all! Hope you are all doing well. Unfortunately, I am not! My car ran GREAT from the moment the Blitz system was installed as well as all last night and early this morning until the very last time I started it up, it threw a code and the check engine light came on. When I hook up my scanner, it shows the code as "pending" which probably is why it keeps doing it even after I clear the code with my scanner. Can someone help me with this? Whenever it throws the code, it goes into "limp mode" and becomes rather doggy of course. It is showing code P01387 which means that "voltage too high in 02 sensor 1 Bank 2", or something like that. Now I know that my mechanic told me that he had a problem getting the old 02 sensor out of the factory exhaust header to transfer it over to the new Meagan Racing header, but he WAS able to do it after he had to soak it in a LOT of PV Blaster penetrating oil for awhile. But that was now a couple of days ago and all of the PVBlaster should have burned off the 02 sensor by now, unless perhaps it destroyed it in the process? I can not figure this out. I am really bummed now becuase every time I start the car, it throws the same darned code and goes into limp mode again. Can anyone please help me with this? Thanks! Rich rpalai

04-07-2009, 09:45 AM	#97
LtNoogie View User's Garage Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: West Hills, CA Posts: 2,517	No. I'm built a new camera mount but the digital camera died. I'm going to get some data logging software to collect data a little bit better than shaky videos. __________________ aFe Intake \| Blitz Supercharger \| Megan Header \| TRD Exhaust \| NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts \| Tanabe NF210 Springs \| TRD Sway Bar \| Motegi TRAKLITE wheels \| Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors \| Carbotech 1521 brake pads \| stainless steel brake lines \| Seibon vented carbon fiber hood

04-07-2009, 11:07 AM	#98
Doc Zaius Lurker supreme! View User's Garage Drives: old and boosted! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada Posts: 792	For what it's worth, I've been watching my IGN on the SG. At idle, it typically is around 5, jumps to 10 every once in a while. When the defrost is on (and I guess A/C kicks in), the RPMs drop momentarily, and the IGN drops to -5 or -6... then back to +5. Also when cruising and off-boost (TPS < 25), IGN is around 35. Drops to around 15-20 when boosting. __________________ 2006 Red Blitzed RS 5-door

04-07-2009, 02:02 PM	#99
LtNoogie View User's Garage Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: West Hills, CA Posts: 2,517	But don't you get highest performance with more ignition advance? ... like around 20? Are we running in less than optimal mode? With the S/C turned off, my ignition is much more advanced. __________________ aFe Intake \| Blitz Supercharger \| Megan Header \| TRD Exhaust \| NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts \| Tanabe NF210 Springs \| TRD Sway Bar \| Motegi TRAKLITE wheels \| Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors \| Carbotech 1521 brake pads \| stainless steel brake lines \| Seibon vented carbon fiber hood

03-21-2013, 05:15 PM	#101
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	__________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

03-18-2009, 05:47 PM	#92
kurokoma-kun Drives: 2007 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: my own little world Posts: 1,256	Here's what the repair manual has to say about P0138, O2 sensor high voltage: "...when the air-fuel ratio is richer than the stoichiometric air-fuel level, the oxygen concentration in the exhaust gas becomes lean. The HO2 sensor informs the ECM that the post-TWC air-fuel ratio is rich (high voltage, i.e. more than 0.45 V). The HO2 sensor has the property of changing its output voltage drastically when the air-fuel ratio is close to the stoichiometric level." So IMO he'll be wanting to pinpoint the cause of the extremely rich air-fuel ratio (injectors, fuel pressure, exhaust leak, etc.) in addition to checking the sensor itself. You can find the entire Engine Control manual and many others here, hosted by our own etimago --> http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/ PS-- you may get better response if you start your own thread for issues like this it's too important to get buried among other info.

03-18-2009, 07:22 PM	#93
largeorangefont Break'em off some. View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris LB, 04 Cobra Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: So Cal, OC Posts: 854	Noogie, What we need you do do is to do a WOT pull to redline from around 2000 RPM in 2nd. Strap that camera down :) Again, from the shots you provided I don't think you have anything to worry about.

03-21-2013, 12:11 PM	#100
TOLMACH Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Beautiful British Columbia Posts: 954	nice

03-21-2013, 11:40 PM	#102
TOLMACH Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Beautiful British Columbia Posts: 954	Nice meant I need to read this some time in the future and not waste time searching for this thread )) (Think outside the box))))

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