Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by macky

thank u ,ctscot ur d" man! this is my problem where can i find this illustration for my my toyota yaris (push start model) this is a sulution , many technician here in italy do not know how to installed remote starter . thanks a lot

I'll have to do a bit of research on that one. The biggest question is if any of the transponder key bypass modules can emulate the smart card used with the PTS system.

[macky]

hi scott iwould to online order of bypass( NEW DEI XK05 DATA TRANSPONDER OVERRIDE INTERFACE BYPASS )or (Xpresskit DBALL DATABUS DB-ALL COMBO BYPASS ) WHICH ONE WHO WORK THE BEST FOR MY YARIS MODEL 2006 PUSH START ENGINE . HERE in ITALY MY REMOTE STARTER IS (PROSTART- O34-O743-4 ) , MY YARIS HAVE A FACTORY MOBILIZER , IDONT know THAT THE U.S HAVE SAME MODEL 2006 PUSHSTART , BUT IS THE SAME OF VENZA PUSH START. WHICH ONE YOU RECOMENDED PLS, email irenel_it@yahoo.it

[devinlamothe]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but what type of wire taps did you use CTScott? Scotchlok? I'm wondering because the heavy gauge starter wires are a lot larger than what I've seen available.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by devinlamothe

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but what type of wire taps did you use CTScott? Scotchlok? I'm wondering because the heavy gauge starter wires are a lot larger than what I've seen available.

Actually, all of the wires you will connect to on the Yaris are low current, "control" wires, rather than high current ones, which is what the remote starters are setup to handle, hence their giant size.

So, the issue is seriously mismatched wire sizes for the tap splices. Since the car side is the important side, I actually use the tap splices sized for the car's wires (which are the red ones {24-18 AWG}). When you crimp them onto the small gauge car wire and large gauge remote starter wires, some of the strands of the remote starter wire will get cut off, but what remains will be at least the same gauge as the car wire.

I do use the Scotchlok ones and find them to be better quality than many of the other brands.

[devinlamothe]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Actually, all of the wires you will connect to on the Yaris are low current, "control" wires, rather than high current ones, which is what the remote starters are setup to handle, hence their giant size.

So, the issue is seriously mismatched wire sizes for the tap splices. Since the car side is the important side, I actually use the tap splices sized for the car's wires (which are the red ones {24-18 AWG}). When you crimp them onto the small gauge car wire and large gauge remote starter wires, some of the strands of the remote starter wire will get cut off, but what remains will be at least the same gauge as the car wire.

I do use the Scotchlok ones and find them to be better quality than many of the other brands.

Thanks for the info Scott.

So I finally did get the Scotchlok connectors as well as my remote start but I am having some issues getting it going.

This is a Viper 4203v unit (Responder One):

Starter wires -> car wires

Pink Ignition -> Green ignition
Pink/White Secondary ignition -> Pink ignition
Purple Starter -> Black starter
Orange Accessory -> White accessory
Red 12v - 12v on fuse panel (top)
Red 12v - 12v on fuse panel (top)

Black/White Neutral Switch -> to ground
Violet/White Tach wire -> L.Green on OBD2
Brown brake -> Green brake +12
Grey hoodswitch -> not connected

Everything looks like it is connected properly, but it seems the unit will not turn on. I would think if the unit was powering up I would see the red LED come on for at least a second but it does not.

I have checked my connections with a multi-meter and everything looks good.

Is there something I am missing here? I have never installed a remote start before and reading through this thread made me think it was easy, lol.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by devinlamothe

Thanks for the info Scott.

So I finally did get the Scotchlok connectors as well as my remote start but I am having some issues getting it going.

This is a Viper 4203v unit (Responder One):

Starter wires -> car wires

Pink Ignition -> Green ignition
Pink/White Secondary ignition -> Pink ignition
Purple Starter -> Black starter
Orange Accessory -> White accessory
Red 12v - 12v on fuse panel (top)
Red 12v - 12v on fuse panel (top)

Black/White Neutral Switch -> to ground
Violet/White Tach wire -> L.Green on OBD2
Brown brake -> Green brake +12
Grey hoodswitch -> not connected

Everything looks like it is connected properly, but it seems the unit will not turn on. I would think if the unit was powering up I would see the red LED come on for at least a second but it does not.

I have checked my connections with a multi-meter and everything looks good.

Is there something I am missing here? I have never installed a remote start before and reading through this thread made me think it was easy, lol.

I don't have the manual for the 4203v, but what you are connected to looks good. Check the install manual for a start-up or configuration process that may have to be done before it will work.

[devinlamothe]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I don't have the manual for the 4203v, but what you are connected to looks good. Check the install manual for a start-up or configuration process that may have to be done before it will work.

The only thing I can see that I didn't do is the 'tach learning' ... I'm going to try that and see if it works.

[yarisyeti]

Is it better to solder or tap into the wires?

Does either void the warranty?

Thanks!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by yarisyeti

Is it better to solder or tap into the wires?

Does either void the warranty?

Thanks!

Nothing voids the warranty unless what you do leads to failure of it or something else.

Soldering typically is better, but wire taps work fine and can be a bit safer to work with under the dash. I have used wire taps on the last 4 of my cars that I installed remote starters on and have driven 100K+ without an single issue.

[yarisyeti]

Next question. I am adding electric windows to my bone stock yaris. I am using a Prestige APS787C and it says it can roll windows up and down.

On this site: http://voxrightnow.custhelp.com/app/...e-start-system It says I can use channel 4 and 5 to do this, my question is, can I just hook the wires for channel 4 and 5 to the power and ground of the window, or do I need to hook up relays?

If I have to hook up relays, how will I wire them?

Here is my install manual as well! http://www.clubgpstore.com/art/aps787_IM.pdf

Thanks a million!!

do i use this relay:http://www.automotiverewire.com/Nava...ayswindows.htm

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by yarisyeti

Next question. I am adding electric windows to my bone stock yaris. I am using a Prestige APS787C and it says it can roll windows up and down.

On this site: http://voxrightnow.custhelp.com/app/...e-start-system It says I can use channel 4 and 5 to do this, my question is, can I just hook the wires for channel 4 and 5 to the power and ground of the window, or do I need to hook up relays?

If I have to hook up relays, how will I wire them?

Here is my install manual as well! http://www.clubgpstore.com/art/aps787_IM.pdf

Thanks a million!!

do i use this relay:http://www.automotiverewire.com/Nava...ayswindows.htm

For the remote window closure you need an auto window closer device, like the DEI 530T. The aux output of the remote starter would become an input to the 530T to tell it to crank up the windows (or with another output, down as well for airing it out in the hot weather).

[yarisyeti]

could I use a 529T?

[yarisyeti]

Can I use a 529T?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by yarisyeti

Can I use a 529T?

Yes. The 529T just gives you one direction, whereas the 530T gives you both.

[yarisyeti]

wouldn't hooking up a relay like thishttp://www.automotiverewire.com/Navagation/spdtrelayswindows.htm work just the same?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by yarisyeti

wouldn't hooking up a relay like thishttp://www.automotiverewire.com/Navagation/spdtrelayswindows.htm work just the same?

Yes, although the relays will stay energized as long as the output channel is on, whereas the 529T or 530T has some intelligence to turn its relays off. The problem with leaving them energized is that if you trigger the output channel after turning the car off, and then leave the car parked for a day or so, you may come back to a dead battery.

[mirapatec]

@ CTScott - Thanks for sharing all this information with other Yaris owners.

[WestCoast]

Thank you so much CTScott,
My 2007 auto transmission Yaris is a 5 door hatch back without keyless entry, manual windows, but have a button to lock and unlock the door. Does it need a keypass or not?
Thank you again,