DIY: OEM JDM HID Headlight Conversion - Page 6 - Toyota Yaris Forums

DeeBee · 01-13-2019, 10:06 AM

The diode connection is in the first pic. Temporary but functional.

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fredovvti · 01-13-2019, 02:42 PM

Thank you!!

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fredovvti · 01-14-2019, 11:53 AM

In this image, you can make more details, I 2 cable connected to the diode. Those are the negative im correct? I see to red taped together what are those?

Thank you for your response.

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DeeBee · 01-15-2019, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fredovvti

In this image, you can make more details, I 2 cable connected to the diode. Those are the negative im correct? I see to red taped together what are those?

Thank you for your response.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Hi fredovvti,

In the image showing the relays, yes, I connected the low beam negative and high beam negative terminals.

The relays are part of a harness I purchased to get the ballasts to turn on. Sadly, in an effort to get this mod working I butchered the harness quite a lot trying to get it to work. I'm not sure I can get it back to the way it was wired when I bought it but it works fine now.

Initially, I connected both negatives and all lights came on, all the time - Not good. Eventually I discovered that all I needed to do was connect both negatives using a diode to keep high beams off during low beam operation and during high beam operation keep the low beams on.

I am very happy with this mod because I can flash to see ahead at a corner without losing the HID wide-angle view.

fredovvti · 01-15-2019, 11:26 AM

Interesting, so it only connwct the negatives wires to the diode. I will try went my extra relay harness arrive. Thank you for the respone.

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DeeBee · 01-15-2019, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fredovvti

Interesting, so it only connwct the negatives wires to the diode. I will try went my extra relay harness arrive. Thank you for the respone.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

That is correct. The diode only connects the negative wires.

Looking forward to hear how it goes for you once you get your harness.

fredovvti · 01-21-2019, 12:44 PM

Att lastt!! Thanks to Deebee for the help I conquer the hi/low beam in same time. Now I have full jdm lights!!! I connect the diode with hi and low.

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DeeBee · 01-29-2019, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fredovvti

Att lastt!! Thanks to Deebee for the help I conquer the hi/low beam in same time. Now I have full jdm lights!!! I connect the diode with hi and low.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Glad to have been of assistance

I am happy to see it worked for you too

The lights are just amazing

I like the way you connected your diode. I should have done it the same way to save on the time I spent removing the contacts from the relay connectors

BIGTAZ351 · 04-12-2019, 11:02 AM

Interesting Thread....I do not believe my 2010 3D Hatch is Negative Switched...I purchased "Headlight Revolution" H4 LED Headlights and plug and play installed normally last summer... After buying some "No Name" LEDs that also worked normally but had crappy output...Maybe they got rid of that with the DRL?

IllusionX · 04-12-2019, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGTAZ351

Interesting Thread....I do not believe my 2010 3D Hatch is Negative Switched...I purchased "Headlight Revolution" H4 LED Headlights and plug and play installed normally last summer... After buying some "No Name" LEDs that also worked normally but had crappy output...Maybe they got rid of that with the DRL?

The cheapest LED headlights bulbs have auto sensing polarity. You can connect whichever way you want it will always work.

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BIGTAZ351 · 04-12-2019, 11:17 AM

I will have to check that...Because I also had installed a H4 relay harness when I was running the 100W/130W Halogens (Which I removed when I went to LED) and it worked normally as well...and it was installed into my Chevrolet after the Yaris...and I thought I checked the outputs before I installed that harness...I seriously do not think the newer NON-DRL ones are Negative switched.

(And those H4 were from the motorcycle world, they do not work backwards!)

ezhacker1 · 04-13-2019, 04:14 AM

this should help. Power flows as same way no matter if its ground or positive switched. But yes Yaris are ground switched 06-11 for sure.

BIGTAZ351 · 04-15-2019, 03:59 AM

OK I went out and tested my car...It does feed Backwards...I am curious how the Relays in the HD wiring harness allowed it to work, those relays have a diode in the trigger coil to prevent back feeding? And because I purchased it for a "Normal" vehicle then used it on a "Backwards" vehicle, then installed it on a Normal Vehicle...either those relays work both ways and or the diodes were non-existent... Either Way seems the LED lights have gotten "smarter" than when they first started making them for Motorcycles...they wouldn't work or would "smoke" if you gave them power thru the Ground! (Very Interesting)

(The power actually flows Backwards thru the bulb, This is DC not AC.)

ezhacker1 · 08-27-2019, 03:55 AM

I too went from diode between the hi and low to Morimoto MotoControl. Best thing ever. But i do hate these housings for retrofitting (Morimoto Mini D2s 5.0) ... my driver side high beam solenoid must have been disconnected. But I have 2 six inch light bars in the grille for high beams that do so much more.

DeeBee · 08-27-2019, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ezhacker1

I too went from diode between the hi and low to Morimoto MotoControl. Best thing ever. But i do hate these housings for retrofitting (Morimoto Mini D2s 5.0) ....

I have had Morimoto Mini H1's and D2S' on Rav4 and Corona and they were fantastic. On the Yaris I'm holding out since I have a working JDM setup. I think the D2S 5.0 will be the next upgrade. For now I'm looking to get a Morimoto harness to drive the JDM units for another few months before I decide to upgrade.

What's the issue with the housings? I'd think it would be easy since they are big. My Rav4 had really small headlights and it was a pain trying to get the projectors in right.

ezhacker1 · 08-27-2019, 07:44 PM

You still have to cut around the OEM bulb opening to fit the thread of the projector. Also threaded on without modification means the beam is too low. You run out of vertical adjustment. Could well possibly be I'm using aftermarkets housings as I dont have 08 style OEM, my car is 09. But the aftermarket allows me to have horizontal adjustment.

Mini D2S 5.0 is much better than the 4.0 IMO. the step isnt as big. I hated the dead zone of light on the lower step. Highbeams always looked good for these projector price range.

DeeBee · 08-28-2019, 12:45 PM

Thanks for the info. I'll certainly take a good look at vertical adjustment when I make that move.

liger_zero9999 · 12-29-2019, 06:52 AM

Evening all,

So after having the HID's in I'm starting to get sick of the pee coloured H7 high beams, so have been considering changing the high beams over to LED''s. Anyone else done this with the current draw from the HID headlights? Currently running a 15amp fuse.

If so, I'd be interested in what peoples impressions with moving over from halogen high beams to led.

01-13-2019, 10:06 AM	#1
DeeBee JDM Fan! Drives: '06 Yaris Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Australia Posts: 26	The diode connection is in the first pic. Temporary but functional. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ Regards, DeeBee

04-12-2019, 11:02 AM	#9
BIGTAZ351 147K-Blue / 24K-Yellow View User's Garage Drives: 2010 Ylw 3dr. AT(Blue-Wife's) Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: North Branch, MN Posts: 78	Interesting Thread....I do not believe my 2010 3D Hatch is Negative Switched...I purchased "Headlight Revolution" H4 LED Headlights and plug and play installed normally last summer... After buying some "No Name" LEDs that also worked normally but had crappy output...Maybe they got rid of that with the DRL? __________________ All Weather Package, Power Package, Cruise, WeatherTech Floor Mats. Altimax Arctic Winter Tires. Repair List: 1 new blower motor, making funny noise. @ 91K (Water pump @ 120K) Mod List: 1. Black tape on most of the annoying blue high beam light behind the lens. (thank you CTScott)

04-12-2019, 11:17 AM	#11
BIGTAZ351 147K-Blue / 24K-Yellow View User's Garage Drives: 2010 Ylw 3dr. AT(Blue-Wife's) Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: North Branch, MN Posts: 78	I will have to check that...Because I also had installed a H4 relay harness when I was running the 100W/130W Halogens (Which I removed when I went to LED) and it worked normally as well...and it was installed into my Chevrolet after the Yaris...and I thought I checked the outputs before I installed that harness...I seriously do not think the newer NON-DRL ones are Negative switched. (And those H4 were from the motorcycle world, they do not work backwards!) __________________ All Weather Package, Power Package, Cruise, WeatherTech Floor Mats. Altimax Arctic Winter Tires. Repair List: 1 new blower motor, making funny noise. @ 91K (Water pump @ 120K) Mod List: 1. Black tape on most of the annoying blue high beam light behind the lens. (thank you CTScott)

04-15-2019, 03:59 AM	#13
BIGTAZ351 147K-Blue / 24K-Yellow View User's Garage Drives: 2010 Ylw 3dr. AT(Blue-Wife's) Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: North Branch, MN Posts: 78	OK I went out and tested my car...It does feed Backwards...I am curious how the Relays in the HD wiring harness allowed it to work, those relays have a diode in the trigger coil to prevent back feeding? And because I purchased it for a "Normal" vehicle then used it on a "Backwards" vehicle, then installed it on a Normal Vehicle...either those relays work both ways and or the diodes were non-existent... Either Way seems the LED lights have gotten "smarter" than when they first started making them for Motorcycles...they wouldn't work or would "smoke" if you gave them power thru the Ground! (Very Interesting) (The power actually flows Backwards thru the bulb, This is DC not AC.) __________________ All Weather Package, Power Package, Cruise, WeatherTech Floor Mats. Altimax Arctic Winter Tires. Repair List: 1 new blower motor, making funny noise. @ 91K (Water pump @ 120K) Mod List: 1. Black tape on most of the annoying blue high beam light behind the lens. (thank you CTScott)

08-27-2019, 03:55 AM	#14
ezhacker1 Drives: Decepticon - Ravage Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: San Francisco Posts: 1,464	I too went from diode between the hi and low to Morimoto MotoControl. Best thing ever. But i do hate these housings for retrofitting (Morimoto Mini D2s 5.0) ... my driver side high beam solenoid must have been disconnected. But I have 2 six inch light bars in the grille for high beams that do so much more. __________________ Check out my Build thread: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52274

01-13-2019, 02:42 PM	#2
fredovvti Drives: Yaris 07 HB Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sabana Grande, PR Posts: 70	Thank you!! Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

01-14-2019, 11:53 AM	#3
fredovvti Drives: Yaris 07 HB Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sabana Grande, PR Posts: 70	In this image, you can make more details, I 2 cable connected to the diode. Those are the negative im correct? I see to red taped together what are those? Thank you for your response. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

01-15-2019, 11:26 AM	#5
fredovvti Drives: Yaris 07 HB Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sabana Grande, PR Posts: 70	Interesting, so it only connwct the negatives wires to the diode. I will try went my extra relay harness arrive. Thank you for the respone. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

01-21-2019, 12:44 PM	#7
fredovvti Drives: Yaris 07 HB Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sabana Grande, PR Posts: 70	Att lastt!! Thanks to Deebee for the help I conquer the hi/low beam in same time. Now I have full jdm lights!!! I connect the diode with hi and low. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

08-27-2019, 07:44 PM	#16
ezhacker1 Drives: Decepticon - Ravage Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: San Francisco Posts: 1,464	You still have to cut around the OEM bulb opening to fit the thread of the projector. Also threaded on without modification means the beam is too low. You run out of vertical adjustment. Could well possibly be I'm using aftermarkets housings as I dont have 08 style OEM, my car is 09. But the aftermarket allows me to have horizontal adjustment. Mini D2S 5.0 is much better than the 4.0 IMO. the step isnt as big. I hated the dead zone of light on the lower step. Highbeams always looked good for these projector price range. __________________ Check out my Build thread: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52274

08-28-2019, 12:45 PM	#17
DeeBee JDM Fan! Drives: '06 Yaris Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Australia Posts: 26	Thanks for the info. I'll certainly take a good look at vertical adjustment when I make that move. __________________ Regards, DeeBee

12-29-2019, 06:52 AM	#18
liger_zero9999 Drives: 2010 NCP90R Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Queensland, Australia Posts: 2	Evening all, So after having the HID's in I'm starting to get sick of the pee coloured H7 high beams, so have been considering changing the high beams over to LED''s. Anyone else done this with the current draw from the HID headlights? Currently running a 15amp fuse. If so, I'd be interested in what peoples impressions with moving over from halogen high beams to led.

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