DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap - Page 15 - Toyota Yaris Forums

*tk-421* · 05-21-2009, 06:58 PM

The cold start sounds normal to me. In my case it's always @ 2.5K
It shouldn't settle @1.1K though... That sounds high to me when idling.
The CEL thing is hit/miss... Some ppl get it, some ppl don't.

Yoda · 05-21-2009, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tk-421

The cold start sounds normal to me. In my case it's always @ 2.5K
It shouldn't settle @1.1K though... That sounds high to me when idling.
The CEL thing is hit/miss... Some ppl get it, some ppl don't.

yea but something is up with the throttle. i gonna try it again once it resets. I think i might have to turn the screw until the idle get down to normal. Little small turns lol.
I hope i didnt get a defective one.

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 02:23 AM

Turn the idle screw 1.5 turns counter-clockwise. Also, if you used any gasket maker, you need to not run the car for a few hours to let that stuff cure, or else the idle vacuum will suck the stuff into the intake manifold...which will give you really erratic running and a CEL.

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 08:35 AM

well its morning gonna try again that idle screw is hard to turn.

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 11:03 AM

ffs its stripped the fing screw!!!

marcus · 05-22-2009, 11:06 AM

get rid of the glue.. then try wd40.

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 01:10 PM

If the set screw is toast get a broken bolt remover and pull it out. I believe an M3x20mm screw will work as a replacement.

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 02:19 PM

ok so i got back throttle response due to chip swap but its idling at 1.6k warm.....
Also when i tried the holding rpm thing it just starts to bounce up and down :(. I think i may need to disconnect the battery longer cause i only did it for 20 min. got to find a way to get that screw out.

O btw i just realized that the TB i got came from an auto trans car. Do you think that makes a diff?

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 03:07 PM

drove it city hard. oscillated whenever i depressed the clutch. got to the Auto part store alive pulled the code it read 2103 Motor circuit high. Unop leaving the store the oscillation went away for the mosr part. It only goes from wateva rpm i am at to 500rpm then settles at 600-700rpm

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 03:14 PM

Make sure there are no leaks between the TB and the intake manifold.

Did you use the stock yaris TB gasket (that O-ring with the small brass screen)?

Once you get the idle screw fixed you'll be in good shape.

The fact that the TB came from an auto car won't make a differance.

*tk-421* · 05-22-2009, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoda

ffs its stripped the fing screw!!!

Yup... Happened to me too... Still haven't fixed it, but don't really have to either

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkuchta

Make sure there are no leaks between the TB and the intake manifold.

Did you use the stock yaris TB gasket (that O-ring with the small brass screen)?

Once you get the idle screw fixed you'll be in god shape.

yea i did use the o ring. Gonna try and dyno it on Monday cause i don't really notice a diff really
I an attempt to figure this out i sarted reading
http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairm...%20Control.pdf
search 2103

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 03:36 PM

Don't bother going to a dyno until the problems you have are ironed out. Until I got the idle set screw set up properly the thing didn't feel any better, but when the TB is dialed in the differance is pretty noticable.

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 03:39 PM

yea i guess i am tiered for today tho tomorrow i go remove the bolt and replace it

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 05:49 PM

cel gone oscillated gone stock idle. hope it last

t0m4s · 05-22-2009, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoda

cel gone oscillated gone stock idle. hope it last

cel gone, oscillated gone and stock idle... and u havent touch the idle screw, right?

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 10:31 PM

The whole point of adjusting the idle screw is not to stop CEL's in the short term....the point is to stop the CEL from ever coming back down the road.

If you don't adjust the idle screw, the ECU will eventually compensate and not throw a code, but the second you unplug the battery, all of the bad symptoms will come back.

If you do adjust the idle set screw, the ECU will adjust much quicker and the idle will be more stable. Also, later on when you disconnect the battery to do something, when you hook it back up, the car will behave as though the normal TB is installed (i.e. slightly low idle while it relearns all of the relevant trims).

PLUS.....when I adjusted the set screw on my 1zz TB, i noticed that off-idle performance was improved, and most of the jerkyness associated with the DFCO fuction was gone (before the adjustment, when DFCO would kick it it felt like I was putting the brakes on!).

Overall....you can do this swap without messing with the idle set screw and the CEL will more than likely go away (if the TB is properly sealed to the manifold), but adjusting the set screw really unlocks a lot of the benefit of the swap.

MGargano · 05-23-2009, 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkuchta

If you turn the idle set screw out about a turn and a half, all of your problems will go away.

So I should turn it all the way in, then back out 1.5 turns? If not, what's the 'correct' procedure for adjusting the idle screw?

05-21-2009, 06:58 PM	#253
tk-421 Super Moderator View User's Garage Drives: 5D-07-LB Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dagobah Posts: 4,263	The cold start sounds normal to me. In my case it's always @ 2.5K It shouldn't settle @1.1K though... That sounds high to me when idling. The CEL thing is hit/miss... Some ppl get it, some ppl don't. __________________ --[ FORUM RULES ]--[ SEARCHING TIPS ]--[ EYELIDS PICS ]--[ RBK SPOILER ]--[ BEST/WORST INVESTMENTS ]--

05-22-2009, 03:14 PM	#262
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Make sure there are no leaks between the TB and the intake manifold. Did you use the stock yaris TB gasket (that O-ring with the small brass screen)? Once you get the idle screw fixed you'll be in good shape. The fact that the TB came from an auto car won't make a differance. Last edited by jkuchta; 05-22-2009 at 03:30 PM.

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05-22-2009, 02:23 AM	#255
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Turn the idle screw 1.5 turns counter-clockwise. Also, if you used any gasket maker, you need to not run the car for a few hours to let that stuff cure, or else the idle vacuum will suck the stuff into the intake manifold...which will give you really erratic running and a CEL.

05-22-2009, 08:35 AM	#256
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	well its morning gonna try again that idle screw is hard to turn.

05-22-2009, 11:03 AM	#257
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	ffs its stripped the fing screw!!!

05-22-2009, 11:06 AM	#258
marcus toyota View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: toronto, canada Posts: 3,637	get rid of the glue.. then try wd40.

05-22-2009, 01:10 PM	#259
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	If the set screw is toast get a broken bolt remover and pull it out. I believe an M3x20mm screw will work as a replacement.

05-22-2009, 02:19 PM	#260
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	ok so i got back throttle response due to chip swap but its idling at 1.6k warm..... Also when i tried the holding rpm thing it just starts to bounce up and down :(. I think i may need to disconnect the battery longer cause i only did it for 20 min. got to find a way to get that screw out. O btw i just realized that the TB i got came from an auto trans car. Do you think that makes a diff?

05-22-2009, 03:07 PM	#261
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	drove it city hard. oscillated whenever i depressed the clutch. got to the Auto part store alive pulled the code it read 2103 Motor circuit high. Unop leaving the store the oscillation went away for the mosr part. It only goes from wateva rpm i am at to 500rpm then settles at 600-700rpm

05-22-2009, 03:36 PM	#265
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Don't bother going to a dyno until the problems you have are ironed out. Until I got the idle set screw set up properly the thing didn't feel any better, but when the TB is dialed in the differance is pretty noticable.

05-22-2009, 03:39 PM	#266
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	yea i guess i am tiered for today tho tomorrow i go remove the bolt and replace it

05-22-2009, 05:49 PM	#267
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	cel gone oscillated gone stock idle. hope it last

05-22-2009, 10:31 PM	#269
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	The whole point of adjusting the idle screw is not to stop CEL's in the short term....the point is to stop the CEL from ever coming back down the road. If you don't adjust the idle screw, the ECU will eventually compensate and not throw a code, but the second you unplug the battery, all of the bad symptoms will come back. If you do adjust the idle set screw, the ECU will adjust much quicker and the idle will be more stable. Also, later on when you disconnect the battery to do something, when you hook it back up, the car will behave as though the normal TB is installed (i.e. slightly low idle while it relearns all of the relevant trims). PLUS.....when I adjusted the set screw on my 1zz TB, i noticed that off-idle performance was improved, and most of the jerkyness associated with the DFCO fuction was gone (before the adjustment, when DFCO would kick it it felt like I was putting the brakes on!). Overall....you can do this swap without messing with the idle set screw and the CEL will more than likely go away (if the TB is properly sealed to the manifold), but adjusting the set screw really unlocks a lot of the benefit of the swap.