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05-21-2009, 03:13 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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05-21-2009, 03:46 AM | #2 |
Have you adjusted the idle screw? If you've turned the screw out too far you could get this code...try turning the screw in one or two turns (with the car off). This should fix the problem.
If you haven't adjusted the idle set screw, turn it counter-clockwise 1.5 turns (with the engine off), and see what happens. Last edited by jkuchta; 05-21-2009 at 04:11 AM. |
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05-21-2009, 09:39 AM | #3 | |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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Quote:
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05-21-2009, 01:26 PM | #4 | |
Quote:
When you leave the screw is the "corolla" position, the yaris ECU adjusts the idle fuel to get a stable idle. This takes time, as the ECU needs to make some pretty big changes. When you adjust the idle set screw to the correct position, the ECU doesn't have to work nearly as hard to get a normal idle, so the ECU doesn't freak out. The idle rpm fluctuations are a result of the ECU hunting for the right fueling to maintain a steady 600-700 rpm idle in the face of way too much air going through an unadjusted corolla TB. The P0505 code is the ECU saying..."WTF!!...Why can't I idle at the fuel trims I'm programmed with...something must be wrong!!" |
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05-23-2009, 01:08 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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05-23-2009, 01:44 AM | #6 | |
Super Moderator
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Quote:
I had no idea which direction to turn to or anything like that... All I did was turn clockwise until I found the best setting after the second try. I guess I got lucky, because the damn screw got stripped at a very decent setting, so I didn't need to do any tweaking afterwards. I also let the gasket maker do its thing for at least 4 hours IIRC, with the battery disconnected the whole time. I also did the coolant bypass, but didn't need to burp it afterwards. No big oscillations, no CELs, and a pretty decent 2.5K idle... could've been a bit better, but I'm not complaining.
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05-24-2009, 12:07 AM | #7 |
05-21-2009, 09:41 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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any one has a DYI on how to install the TB? I am looking through tha manuall and drawing a blank. Do i need anything special?
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05-21-2009, 02:02 PM | #9 |
If you search, you will find it. there have been like 3
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05-21-2009, 02:24 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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05-21-2009, 03:20 PM | #11 |
05-21-2009, 03:35 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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05-21-2009, 03:32 PM | #13 |
Did you get the oscillation? thats what the chip swap was originally indended to fix
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05-21-2009, 06:58 PM | #14 |
Super Moderator
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The cold start sounds normal to me. In my case it's always @ 2.5K
It shouldn't settle @1.1K though... That sounds high to me when idling. The CEL thing is hit/miss... Some ppl get it, some ppl don't.
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05-21-2009, 07:02 PM | #15 | |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Quote:
I hope i didnt get a defective one. |
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05-22-2009, 02:23 AM | #16 |
Turn the idle screw 1.5 turns counter-clockwise. Also, if you used any gasket maker, you need to not run the car for a few hours to let that stuff cure, or else the idle vacuum will suck the stuff into the intake manifold...which will give you really erratic running and a CEL.
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05-22-2009, 08:35 AM | #17 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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well its morning gonna try again that idle screw is hard to turn.
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05-22-2009, 11:03 AM | #18 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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ffs its stripped the fing screw!!!
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