Tamago's guide to ultimate yaris handling

[allyart]

Originally Posted by eTiMaGo

wow hadn't read this thread in a while :)

1) I think this would apply to both, but I'm quite sure he meant the hatchback

2) At the time of writing there was really only the TRD rear swaybar. UR offers swaybars now in two thicknesses, The thicker one will have a stronger effect and induce more oversteer.

3) front strut bars are a bit of a controversial topic. Some say that because the shock tower are more or less directly connected to the firewall, there's no point in adding a bar. But some say that at higher cornering speeds (i.e. on track or autocross), you can feel a difference.

So in the end, I think it depends if you plan to seriously race the car or not? If it's to enjoy a spirited drive, you should be fine with the smaller swaybar and no strut bar, as you'd probably never push the car to the limits of handling on a public road (at least I hope not)

ahh i got it, thanks for the explanation

for now i just want to enjoy a spirited drive, so i will just buy the smaller swaybar. but i have to say, having a strutbar is kinda cool though

[Viperoni]

Originally Posted by eTiMaGo

3) front strut bars are a bit of a controversial topic. Some say that because the shock tower are more or less directly connected to the firewall, there's no point in adding a bar. But some say that at higher cornering speeds (i.e. on track or autocross), you can feel a difference.

In my echo, and on my old slicks, in bumpy corners, I absolutely felt a difference with the strut bar. The front end gripped while the rear didn't, I had oversteer in a couple corners while I was getting used to it, almost got in trouble.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by Viperoni

In my echo, and on my old slicks, in bumpy corners, I absolutely felt a difference with the strut bar. The front end gripped while the rear didn't, I had oversteer in a couple corners while I was getting used to it, almost got in trouble.

what were your tire pressures? (this has a lot more to do with your issue than any suspension component, especially on R comps)

[eTiMaGo]

Yeah it does look nice under the hood :p But due to the rather small engine bay, it makes access to the battery and other stuff at the back a bit difficult, just so you know.

[Autocross72]

Not only does a front strut bar make a difference, there is a difference between strut bars. My first strut bar was a Tanabe. I installed it and adjusted the preload. As I did so, I discovered that I could easily deform the bar by pushing on it. If my scrawny self can bend it, just think what a 2,200 pound car can do. When I drove the car with the Tanabe, I wanted to believe that there was a difference in turn in because of the money I spent on it, but ultimately I could not really tell a difference between the Tanabe installed and no bar installed. Eventually, I bit the bullet and ordered an Ultra Racing front bar. That, I can tell you, made a very noticeable difference! Turn in was much more crisp. Of course, this is all relative to my set up, so here are my details; Megan racing coil-overs and adjustable shocks, 23mm Ultra Racing rear sway bar, front and rear under braces, and 16.3 lb, 17x7.5" Motegi MR125 wheels with Toyo Proxes 4 205/40 tires. The main reason I chose that tire and wheel combo is that it keeps my speedo correct. This is my daily driver. I have a 1972 240Z for autocrossing and track days, but if I ever decide to Autocross my Yaris (I did once), I will definitely buy some 15x7" wheels with 205/50 or 225/50 Kumho V710s. The underpowered Yaris needs all the help it can get from the lower gearing of the smaller wheels.

By the way, has anyone ever tried an off set tire set up? I'm thinking of 225/50/15 in front and 205/50/15 in the rear. With that set up you might not need as much front camber which would give you better acceleration and braking (camber reduces the contact patch when the car is going straight).

[arnoldod]

Thanks for this great guide! :)

I had problem with handling in my first 4000 miles but now the handling has changed drastically. I do not do autocross. My driving characteristic is spirited driving, but only in the weekend. I am stuck in the traffic for the rest of the week with 19 Mph average speed.

I am using Toyo Proxes R1R 195/55/R15 with Advanti Storm-1 wheels (10.9 lbs). I understand that the tires won't last to 20,000 miles but my mileage is short (40 miles weekdays, 28 miles weekend).

The air pressure for both front and rear is 35. What is the recommended air pressure for my tires?

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by arnoldod

Thanks for this great guide! :)

I had problem with handling in my first 4000 miles but now the handling has changed drastically. I do not do autocross. My driving characteristic is spirited driving, but only in the weekend. I am stuck in the traffic for the rest of the week with 19 Mph average speed.

I am using Toyo Proxes R1R 195/55/R15 with Advanti Storm-1 wheels (10.9 lbs). I understand that the tires won't last to 20,000 miles but my mileage is short (40 miles weekdays, 28 miles weekend).

The air pressure for both front and rear is 35. What is the recommended air pressure for my tires?

if you are commuting, and experience little rain, you could up that pressure for better fuel economy (provided the roads are dry). if it rains, keep the pressures at or slightly below the recommended pressure. remember too, your vehicle weight distribution. there's no reason to run the same pressures front and rear (if you don't carry many passengers, or heavy loads in the rear of your car) as your weight distribution f/r is at least 15/20 percent in the rear "less". less tire pressure in the rear will prevent oversteer, but also may induce understeer on sweeping turns.

as you aren't actually racing the car, all of the above is just theory. enjoy the yaris, and i'm sure tire pressures won't really be a factor. there's really no reason to ever push your car past 70% capability on the street, legally.

[cali yaris]

^ Whoa. Welcome back.

[tk-421]

Yeah, no kidding.

[arminius]

Hello,

A noob question for Tamago or suspension experts, I purchased a 2004 Echo that was kept by the original owner in his garage and only had 49,000 miles. The car was certified by Toyota and the engine bay is mint and looked new.

I already purchased a Tanabe NF210, and is looking to upgrade the shocks and struts to Koni Yellow or KYB GR2s.

The question is: Will a 15x7 offset of +25 XXR 527 or 522 work for the car without any issues, using 175/50/15 Yokohama S Drives?

Tamago has mentioned using 15x6.5 offset of +38 for street use is fine.

Thanks in advance.

[arminius]

Sorry, wrong tire specs.

Should be:

195/50/15 Yokohama S Drive

[hondajt]

Since it's a sticky, I don't feel bad reviving this old thread.

My '13 Yaris is really twitchy on the highway. My wife's '09 is very smooth by comparison. We both have stock suspension and tires. I'm hoping someone will have some advice. From what I've read in this thread, I'm hoping it's a simple toe or camber adjustment.

[CoryM]

Originally Posted by hondajt

Since it's a sticky, I don't feel bad reviving this old thread.

My '13 Yaris is really twitchy on the highway. My wife's '09 is very smooth by comparison. We both have stock suspension and tires. I'm hoping someone will have some advice. From what I've read in this thread, I'm hoping it's a simple toe or camber adjustment.

Incorrect toe, camber and caster can all make the car wander, or feel twitchy. Keep in mind, they are two different cars. Different track width, tire size etc can create different feels.

Cheers.

[LTHatch]

Hondajt: I had the exact same issue, the Yaris felt unstable at highway speeds, felt nervous. 205mm wide tires and lowering springs knocked that down a good bit, but driving time is what fixed it for me. The more time i spent driving it the less noticeable it became, now i don't notice any twitchy behavior at all.
Rear sway bar also seems to be a well praised mod that knocks down the nervous feeling the Yaris has at highway speeds, it might be worth a look into if you want to leave the Yaris mostly stock.

[Tapokata]

So, after nearly 160K miles, I'm getting ready to replace the rear shocks on my 09 liftback- changing out the OEM units for a a pair of Bilstein B6's. I plan to replace the bushings, bumpers, and supports with new OEM bits, and retain the other hardware. At the same time, I'm intend to add a TRD torsion spring / sway bar. I'm also going to add a Universal Racing two-point rear strut bar. The suspension is otherwise stock (I'll have the front struts changed out- they're still factory OEM- at a future date). I upsized the wheels and tires from the 14" base to a 15", running P185/60R15's on them, last year. Except for the back end being a bit light, especially on the freeway in high winds (or being buffeted by semi's), it handles pretty well- I like throwing this little washing machine on wheels around our fair city streets.

Lots of experts on this forum- so I'll ask: anything that I need to watch out for or otherwise be aware of in this re-fit? The shock replacement looks to be pretty straightforward, as is the installation of the sway bar and strut. Just checking one more time to see if there are any known (or unknown) gremlins to watch out for in this process. Thanks in advance...

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by Tapokata

Lots of experts on this forum- so I'll ask: anything that I need to watch out for or otherwise be aware of in this re-fit? The shock replacement looks to be pretty straightforward, as is the installation of the sway bar and strut. Just checking one more time to see if there are any known (or unknown) gremlins to watch out for in this process. Thanks in advance...

Dropping the large washer between the wheel well and the plastic interior trim. You will lose your mind trying to get it back out. Same goes for the jam nuts.

I recommend getting it up on a lift if you can, makes the whole process so much simpler than putting it on jacks. I would also suggest buying extra bolts--I've had a few of the lower bolts shear off when changing them.

[DarkShadowFox]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

Dropping the large washer between the wheel well and the plastic interior trim. You will lose your mind trying to get it back out. Same goes for the jam nuts.

I recommend getting it up on a lift if you can, makes the whole process so much simpler than putting it on jacks. I would also suggest buying extra bolts--I've had a few of the lower bolts shear off when changing them.

if you just put all your nuts and bolts into a bag and label/tape them together you will be a okay.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

[Calrenman]

Great thread! Worth reading.