Total Newb - Need help with picking speakers, tools and terms

[spektre]

Hey everyone, I've got a 3 door 2011 Yaris (US). I've recently decided to replace my speakers and I want to do it myself so that I save on labor costs. Problem is, I've never actually ever bought or replaced car speakers before. I have no clue about the market and what I need to buy. I've been doing some research but it's left me confused.

I do know the size of the speakers I need but do I really need a sub? I found the bass from the factory units to be satisfying enough (for factory) so I was thinking I'd just buy 4 new speakers. What brands should I go for? I'd like to be frugal (as opposed to "cheap"). Also do I need a new amp? Ideally I'd only like to change the speakers.

Also I was reading about different speaker types and saw terms that I'm not sure I fully understand.. The amazon guide here left me a bit more confused about it all than I liked. So far I think I'm going to buy four coaxial speakers (2 front + 2 back) and forego the sub. Am I making sense here?

Sorry if I'm asking dumb/incorrect questions. I'm literally starting from scratch here and could use all the help I can get. I've set aside 4 months to save the money and plan this so I have time.

[willygoodness]

if its cheaper.. just update the head unit to one that has better RMS output per channel. I noticed a big difference doing just that

[_S7V7N_]

What is your budget. $$$
Do you want to replace your factory headunit/cd player?

For front a few of us used components. (Component 6.5's) which sound pretty kick$$@. To start off I'd do components in Front with a small amp. And leave rears alone till you get more money.

In the future go with some midbass 6.5's or even 6.5 woofers in Rear.

If you plan on doing that may wanna snatch up a 4channel amp first go round.

But we tend to use amps on aftermarket speakers because the factory cd player only puts out 10 watts of Rms power. Aftermarket units do about 18watts Rms of power.

Terms to Google:
RMS of an amp or speaker
Impedance.
Ohm
Watt.
All these terms are car audio related.

[spektre]

Thanks for the indepth reply S7!

My budget is around $100 if I can keep it there. If I can't get any good sound I'd be reluctantly willing to spend more. I want to change as little as possible besides the speakers. So definitely keep the headunit if I can help it. You're saying I need a new amp so I'll look into that too.

Something in the speakers is distorting the bass and so my sound has deteriorated in the last few months. Without knowing exactly where the problem is I'm not sure I can do anything except change all 4 speakers together.

[_S7V7N_]

Okay first lets get into how the other speakers got messed up. I'm giving you a link that talks about signal clipping. Just read. No need to go all into the mathematics.

http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm

Okay what i want you to learn from that link is (Don't get offended) You may have been the main cause of why the speakers are failing. We all do it. We all have that certain song we want to jam out too and we crank the volume button up to max volume and " get crunk" or jiggy with it" or idk whatever kids do now a days.

Okay idk if the max volume is 32 on your radio or 62 in either case you should probably not turn it up to the max level because it will put out a Clipped signal which will in time screw up your speakers. (Distortion,Rattling,Sound Like Crap) A safe level is about 80 percent of the max level and even then on a factory unit you'll still get a bit of distortion (clipped signal).

Okay now this will effect your new speakers because in your head you just spent 100 bucks on a kick--- pair of brand new speakers and you figure well lemme crank it up to " max level " well guess what in a few days/weeks you'll be having the same issue you have now. Distortion kills speakers. Of course the box says 300 watts max and you think they're the incredible hulk but you'll be comming back on here saying they were pieces of crap and demand a refund. K end of that rant.

That's why we use aftermarket amplifiers to power speakers. If you just replace speakers alone it's basically a waste of money.

Ok that's enough for now. Read the website and this.

Feel free to ask more questions.

[sqcomp]

HULK SMASH!



What S7 is saying is that you should level match your system. What this will do is to make the input levels correct from piece to piece whether that be in a competition system or just a street car daily driver.

Eliminate the clipping through level matching AND good source music (because music has clipped information occasionally*), get decent speakers that can handle the load you're going to throw at them and the "driver mod" (as in you control the volume properly).

Follow these steps and you'll never realistically have to worry about blowing speakers again.

*There is more clipping from source information that people like to think. Google "loudness wars" and you'll understand.

[Exiwolfman]

well i can say this ...did my deck on sale for 89 bucks by pionner , sub out , mp3 ,usb etc does lots, remote ..also got me a bazooka 8 inch build in amp on sale for 74 bucks and harness and deck install kit ..little more than u want to spend but i say do the head unit, it woke my speakers right up and the sub sounds nice in a 3 door hb.
Next will be door and rear speakers but for now it sounds awesome.

[_S7V7N_]

Okay i'm going to give you a link to a speaker.

Would i use it. On a budget. Maybe.

The reason i am recommending this speaker is because its cheap. Learn from it. If you mess it up it's disposable.

35 Watts RMS which will kind of work on factory power.

http://vminnovations.com/Product_527...ers-Pair-.html

[spektre]

S7, Thanks for all the great advice. You're totally on the money with how I busted my speakers: Cranking the volume. The article you linked to was also very good.

I do know that I want a system that can put out high volume though. So I have to make sure I do this right. How do I level match? What am I looking to do? Per the article I need speakers that can handle significantly more than my amp can put out? Is that right? Can I still keep things economical with a worthwhile amp?

I've got someone willing to give me 4 of these for $100: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ries/TS-D1702R

[_S7V7N_]

Them are 60 watts rms.

Installing an amp will be a bit tough for somebody new. Do you have somebody who has some basic knowledge. We can give details. But you'll still need help.

[spektre]

Could you explain the RMS designation please? I'm having some trouble understanding what that means in relation to the amp.

Also, I see that some headunits have built in amps? According to the amazon.com guide, 'Receivers' have built in amps. So if I buy and install a new headunit (I've read the headunit install guide) that should mean I don't need to worry about a complex amp install?

[_S7V7N_]

RMS is the continuous power it can handle. Read
http://www.bcae1.com/speakrat.htm

The Kenwoods i have listed will work well with an aftermarket unit. The pioneers will also sound good. Difference is the ones i showed you will be about $63(4speakers) the pioneers you listed are $100.

Money you saved can be put towards a headunit since you are on a budget. Your decision.

If them Pioneers are Brand New. Hop on them. Used...I'd pass..

[spektre]

I think I've reached the conclusion that I'll have to shell out ~$100 each on the speakers and a new headunit to do this the right away. Now my biggest issue will be getting the volume level I want without clipping.

[_S7V7N_]

K in numbers

Stock Headunit 10 watts RMS

Aftermarket 18-22 watts RMS

What i run 100 watts RMS with an amp. i don't use a headunit.(experiment) Music comes from my Galaxy s3 Only replaced Front Speakers with components. But..Loll just today i cranked some ac/dc on them and there stuff is distorted from the get go...sooooooo....I'll need a new component set soon..Lolll...It's never ending man...and no it didn't happen just from this one use..i give my system hell.

[sqcomp]

What S7 is referencing is a 1/4" out from your phone/iPod/whatever into a single pair of male RCAs into an amplifier you purchase.

This is a hot rodder's trick to keep things simple.



Perhaps buy a used amplifier and install that bish...I have several around but none of them are inexpensive unfortunately.

Heck, I do that little trick into my home system. It works like a charm.

@ S7...Can you make the stretch to some Audison Voce AVX 6.5's? Those are a nice little coaxial set. I'm using them in place of separates. They're holding up to some serious potential. Heck, I've got a 1000 Watt D class on a single old school ID8...but again, I have my system level matched properly.

[JimKellyfan]

So that 10 RMS, is that set in stone ?
Like my 2010 model.
That is 10 watts RMS ?
What is peak ?

As far as speakers, I like polk audio, and they have an ebay classifieds store they sell their refurbs on.
I had em in my caprice and they were crystal clear.
I did need an amp though, and never put it in (still got it)
I bought a good stereo, that claimed 50 watts x 4, but that is peak power, and only for a moment. It really struggled to push anymore than 17 watts x 4 RMS
I would expect the same for most stereos still today.
That said, I want to change speakers, and eventually an amp to push them.
So me, I was looking at actual RMS power output and peak.
10, you say ?

Originally Posted by _S7V7N_

K in numbers

Stock Headunit 10 watts RMS

Aftermarket 18-22 watts RMS

What i run 100 watts RMS with an amp. i don't use a headunit.(experiment) Music comes from my Galaxy s3 Only replaced Front Speakers with components. But..Loll just today i cranked some ac/dc on them and there stuff is distorted from the get go...sooooooo....I'll need a new component set soon..Lolll...It's never ending man...and no it didn't happen just from this one use..i give my system hell.

[_S7V7N_]

10 watts Rms is not written by the hand of god. You can have variations. They have an integrated model, one that has navigation (tom tom). Or even the Pioneers that come in Scions can fit.

Pull your radio and get a model number. May even give rms. You speaker is rated as well. When I pulled my speaker I believe if I remember correct it had the rating on the magnet.

Max is usually double the Rms. So 20 watts max.(uneducated guess)

Major thing to remember is not to clip the signal.

[sqcomp]

I bought a good stereo...it had NO Wattage output RMS or peak. It took me to the top levels of SQ competition.

Like S7 mentioned, look for the cleanest signal possible. Whether that be on the source material, through the stereo's amplifier and/or a standalone amplifier or what have you.

We can split hairs all day. It's about the cleanest and most accurate recreation of the original signal for a lot of people. To others it's about the loudest one can possibly achieve.