FS: tooter I.V 2 inch thick intake manifold spacer

[tooter]

This is a list where you can add your name if you're interested. It's not a commitment to buy, so you're free to change your mind. But you'll have a first chance at one in the order of the names. The spacer is $265 including shipping, and comes complete with mounting hardware and stock O ring gasket.


Production Estimation List

1. BEEF
2. Fredovvti

[biffy]

Whats it do??

[tooter]

Originally Posted by biffy

Whats it do??

It lowers the torque peak by 450 rpm while fattening up the torque curve a little. The longer intake runners allow the engine to pull stronger at low rpms in normal driving.

[KCALB SIRAY]

Hi Tooter. My suggestion is that you explain in detail what this spacer does, but in layman's terms. I understand you have another thread on the production, but I'm pretty sure 85% of this community doesn't even understand why the torque and hp cross paths at 5252 on that chart let alone how this would or would not benefit them. There is a lot of information on that chart and to the person who doesn't get it just won't get it and pass it by without a second glance. Just a suggestion and good luck with the sales.

[Black_griffin6]

I have another question actually...do you think this will have any benefit with boosted projects?
I'm interested, but I might go boosted eventually.

[BEEF]

I thought boost likedshorter runners (less area to pressurize) there again, what do I know.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by KCALB SIRAY

Hi Tooter. My suggestion is that you explain in detail what this spacer does, but in layman's terms. I understand you have another thread on the production, but I'm pretty sure 85% of this community doesn't even understand why the torque and hp cross paths at 5252 on that chart let alone how this would or would not benefit them. There is a lot of information on that chart and to the person who doesn't get it just won't get it and pass it by without a second glance. Just a suggestion and good luck with the sales.

That's a good idea. I'll see if I can express the principle of horsepower and torque better as I recently heard some really good analogies.

Horsepower: How fast you hit a wall.

Torque: How far you push the wall after you hit it.

Horsepower is like a sprinter, while torque is like a cross country hiker.

The sprinter is faster, but when you put a 70 pound pack on his back, he slows down.

The cross country hiker is slower, but when you put a 70 pound pack on his back, he still moves at the same speed.

Then the intake valves on your engine open and close. They are abruptly starting and stopping the incoming air. Now the incoming air has inertia so starting and stopping creates pulses, or pressure waves that travel back and forth inside of the intake manifold runners. If the runners are made longer the pulses will resonate harmoniously at a lower frequency because they have a longer distance to travel to get to the other end. A lower harmonious frequency means reaching peak torque at a lower rpm. More torque at lower rpm means the engine pulls stronger without needing to rev higher.

Hope that helps...


Greg

[tooter]

Originally Posted by Black_griffin6

I have another question actually...do you think this will have any benefit with boosted projects?
I'm interested, but I might go boosted eventually.

I don't believe that it will make any difference. As pushing in the intake air with pressure negates all of the issues associated with normally aspirated air drawn in by the vacuum created by moving pistons.

The tooter intake manifold would work best for boosted applications...






...because the runners are larger in diameter, it will flow more air, it will accept a larger 55mm 1ZZ throttle body, and the strong aluminum can handle any boost pressure.

Greg

[Black_griffin6]

Well my current mods are a Weapon R intake, 1zz TB, DC header, and a mandrel bent cat back exhaust.
I've been debating on weather to go boost or stay NA.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by Black_griffin6

Well my current mods are a Weapon R intake, 1zz TB, DC header, and a mandrel bent cat back exhaust.
I've been debating on weather to go boost or stay NA.

I generally like normally aspirated just for the simplicity of not needing to mess with all of the extra hardware and electronic tuning issues. Plus the strain on the engine is reduced. I believe that it will last longer and be more reliable just sucking in its own air.

Greg

[dragoonmc]

Put me down for one

[jjwitter]

Put my name on the list

[Klink10]

I'd like one. I'm automatic and I think this coupled with my Blitz throttle controller would be a perfect match for that "get away quick at the stop light." Thank you.

PS: Will this come with all the hardware for installation? If not will instructions be provided that include the specific hardware nomenclature required along with gaskets etc. Thank you again.

PS2: Disregard previous, re-read thread. My dumb-a**.

[tooter]

Production Estimation List

1. BEEF
2. Fredovvti
3. dragoonmc
4. jjwitter
5. Klink10

[1.5]

How does this work with the MI manifold. Any dynos combined with one to see how that changes things?

[tooter]

Originally Posted by 1.5

How does this work with the MI manifold. Any dynos combined with one to see how that changes things?

I'm not certain that it will fit as it takes up the frontal clearance provided by the narrowness of the stock manifold. Note how the spacer puts it an inch away from the radiator reservoir.




I'd love to combine it with my tooter intake manifold, but there isn't enough space in front of the engine to do it.


Greg

[1.5]

Yea I was going to say, the MI manifold sits wayyyy close to the hood latch so idk if the spacer would push it too far, if anyone around you cares to test fit id be interested

are you planning on making any TB spacers?

[HANZO_187]

I'll consider this, out my name in buddy!