Want to build costom turbo kit. Need advice from boosted guys!

[Bluevitz-rs]

But the shafts need changed too. I heard they are as thin as a pencil!

Other than "that's what she said", what do you refer to as a "shaft"?

[sleey0]

Cams

[cali yaris]

cams? thin? :iono: I thought we were talking about rods and pistons.

[sleey0]

Dont remember who but someone said the camshafts were like pencils.

I dunno....

[sleey0]

You know me carlos!

I do confuse myself sometimes hahaha.
Cant wait to see your finished ride pimpyaris!

[sleey0]

Dumb? But do u have to pull the engine to replace rods and pistons?

Dont kill me guys! :redface:

[sleey0]

Thanks, carlos.

I figured that but it never hurts to ask (even though my ego took a hit lol).

[1.5ty]

sleey0 when you going to get your turbo kit together

[pimp my yaris]

Has anyone installed a 255lph fuel pump in the stock pick up assem.? It will obviously need some modification as the larger pump is about an inch longer. So how did U guys install your bomba de gasolina? And a picture would be worth a thousand words.:iono:

[pimp my yaris]

So I guess no one had any tips or sugestions, so I figured it out for myself. I installed my 255lph fuel pump and got it sealed with new larger sized O-rings into the factory [in tank fuel filter and regulator assem]. I took some pictures along the way. It worked well for about three miles. Unfortunatly I did not buy the name brand Walbro fuel pump. I think I got a Chinese nock off. As soon as it got warm the car would not go over 3K rpm. Then about a mile later it failed completely. I waited 10min and it started again and I barley made it home. Then I swaped back the the factory pump. I will need to order the Walbro pump soon.

I also put a TRD TURBO sticker and a cartoon turbo face sticker on the back for fun. That way when I kick some ass the looser will know why. I showed them to a Audi A8 today after a short stop light gruge match. I also continue to work on tuning with the AEM FIC.

I had a problem with idle quality and sometimes going lean at idle and dying out after driving on the highway for a long time. I watched my air fuel and noticed my factory O2S was very slow to switch when it was hot at idle. I think it may be fried. I disconnected the factory O2 connector and I was still very lean at idle. I then richened the AF with the FIC at lower RPM. Now that the car is in open loop all the time with the O2 dissconnected it is not trying to correct my adjustments. Now I idle at 13.5 to 14:1 AFR instead of 14.7 to 17:1. Of coarse this should be done with the FIC altering the factory O2 signal. But atleast for now she is runing like a dream. I also richened up the mixture under boost as well to around 11.5:1. It runs so much better in open loop and a little richer. And I also feel safer about getting on the gas. I still avoid the very high rpm until I get some larger injectors.
Did I mention how much fun this car is to drive now :drool:

[pimp my yaris]

stickers

[PETERPOOP]

so much for a sleeper...

[cali yaris]

So I guess no one had any tips or sugestions,

never saw the thread, but glad you got it worked out

[sleey0]

I hope the better pump works for ya.

How much boost are you aiming for?

[sleey0]

so much for a sleeper...

When I am done, mine is DEF gonna be a sleeper.

I don't even have a body kit on mine (maybe next summer) or aftermarket wheels - rolling on steelies!

lol

Sleeper = me:thumbup:

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Glad to see you got that worked out, I really didn't know what to tell you. So, you've decided to keep the car constantly in open loop? I dunno if you've checked my thread, but closed loop is definitely an issue... I was also wondering, since you pulled O2 sensor 2 when you had your exhaust done... Wasn't your car constantly in open loop anyway?

[sleey0]

^^

Yes, that is how one of garms buddies runs open loop constantly. But it come with the price of a constant CE light.

[pimp my yaris]

[QUOTE=Focus_Sh1ft;521878]Glad to see you got that worked out, I really didn't know what to tell you. So, you've decided to keep the car constantly in open loop? I dunno if you've checked my thread, but closed loop is definitely an issue... I was also wondering, since you pulled O2 sensor 2 when you had your exhaust done... Wasn't your car constantly in open loop anyway?[/QUOTE

Removing the after cat. O2 wont put you in open loop. But dissconnecting the manafold O2 will. I was still idling lean and had a rough idle after dissconnecting the O2. I added 20% fuel during idle and whenever runing out of boost. Its runing so much smoother now and I feel safer. The correct way would be to modify the O2 with the FIC. This would keep the CEL off. But I have no converter anyway, so it would still be on. Im sure mileage will suffer, but i would rather keep rings and pistons cooler with a richer mixture.

[pimp my yaris]

I also had a problem with dying out at idle with a hot engine or when idling for a long time. Its all been taken care of now.

[sleey0]

[QUOTE=Focus_Sh1ft;521878]Glad to see you got that worked out, I really didn't know what to tell you. So, you've decided to keep the car constantly in open loop? I dunno if you've checked my thread, but closed loop is definitely an issue... I was also wondering, since you pulled O2 sensor 2 when you had your exhaust done... Wasn't your car constantly in open loop anyway?[/QUOTE

Removing the after cat. O2 wont put you in open loop. But dissconnecting the manafold O2 will. I was still idling lean and had a rough idle after dissconnecting the O2. I added 20% fuel during idle and whenever runing out of boost. Its runing so much smoother now and I feel safer. The correct way would be to modify the O2 with the FIC. This would keep the CEL off. But I have no converter anyway, so it would still be on. Im sure mileage will suffer, but i would rather keep rings and pistons cooler with a richer mixture.

Patience.

CTScott is gonna look at it in a few weeks. I bet anything he comes up with some type of workaround:bow:

AND a good idea is to start a donation fund for him. The dude has helped nearly everyone on this site lol.

I would def donate to thus project, IF CT wants to set it up.

[pimp my yaris]

Found a good thread on a scion forum with pics of a step by step engine teardown for piston and rod replacement http://www.scikotics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46597

Just wanted to share :thumbup:

[Nexus1155]

There is already such a device, it is a narrowband simulator. You obviously need to have a wideband of your own to tune. But once you have the fuel tuned and the wideband still sees 11.* the narrowband simulator will tell the ECU that it is at 14.7 therefore not have the ECU going crazy.

Most in car widebands/managements have the ability to do such a thing. Check it out on most of the spec pages. I beleive both the FI/C the Uego and the emanage can do this, just alot of people never take advantage of it.

That and a MAF clamp, you should be running CEL free.

[pimp my yaris]

I took some pics for the micro image calendar. I call this one, In Your Face! I wonder who's phone number is on my license plate?

[Dj WaRrIoR]

Has anyone installed a 255lph fuel pump in the stock pick up assem.? It will obviously need some modification as the larger pump is about an inch longer. So how did U guys install your bomba de gasolina? And a picture would be worth a thousand words.:iono:

ok i went throught that experience.. i had a shop do this for me cuz wen i came to fuel i didnt want to blow up lolll.. what they did was easy.. the litterally shaved off the fuel filter to disconnect the stock regulator... after that they splited up the line goin to the engine.."T" ok so you have a 3 way splitter right on one end the walbro at the opposite end the line going to the canister leading to the engine.. and on the other side left the fuel regulator ..that did 188WHP @8psi for me with stock internals and returnless fuel system...

[pimp my yaris]

I recently have noticed a small problem with my cheap turbo. When the car sits overnight and U first start it up in the morning. If I just let it idle and warm up for a while I will get some white smoke coming from my exhaust when the engine starts to warm up. If I rev it up I get a little cloud of smoke. Once I start driving the smoke is gone and no more problem. I have removed my downpipe and have noticed some oil leaking from the turbo into the exhaust when the car sits and gets cold. I have also checked my oil level regularly and never noticed any oil burning issue. Even making 800mile trip there was no oil loss.
So I think its only a drop or two that leaks into the exhaust every night. It just really pisses me off though. I have done everything to prevent this. My coolant lines are connected and I have a turbo timer.
I guess thats what U get for buying the cheap Chinese turbo. I hope it holds up through winter and mabe I will get a Garret next summer. Its 950$ compared to the 240$ I spent for my turbo.
I wonder if I had a converter, mabe that would eliminate the smoke?

[pimp my yaris]

ok i went throught that experience.. i had a shop do this for me cuz wen i came to fuel i didnt want to blow up lolll.. what they did was easy.. the litterally shaved off the fuel filter to disconnect the stock regulator... after that they splited up the line goin to the engine.."T" ok so you have a 3 way splitter right on one end the walbro at the opposite end the line going to the canister leading to the engine.. and on the other side left the fuel regulator ..that did 188WHP @8psi for me with stock internals and returnless fuel system...

Thanks for the tip. I didnt think of that.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I recently have noticed a small problem with my cheap turbo. When the car sits overnight and U first start it up in the morning. If I just let it idle and warm up for a while I will get some white smoke coming from my exhaust when the engine starts to warm up. If I rev it up I get a little cloud of smoke. Once I start driving the smoke is gone and no more problem. I have removed my downpipe and have noticed some oil leaking from the turbo into the exhaust when the car sits and gets cold. I have also checked my oil level regularly and never noticed any oil burning issue. Even making 800mile trip there was no oil loss.
So I think its only a drop or two that leaks into the exhaust every night. It just really pisses me off though. I have done everything to prevent this. My coolant lines are connected and I have a turbo timer.
I guess thats what U get for buying the cheap Chinese turbo. I hope it holds up through winter and mabe I will get a Garret next summer. Its 950$ compared to the 240$ I spent for my turbo.
I wonder if I had a converter, mabe that would eliminate the smoke?

Yeah, doesn't seem like it's THAT big of a deal. I'm still dripping oil a bit, but it's like your case where the amount is so insignificant that its not even effecting oil level.

And let's be real here, your install went wayyyy too good regarding leaks until now lol.

[Dj WaRrIoR]

Thanks for the tip. I didnt think of that.

no prob believe me i've been through ALOOOTT i haven't even read here... just so you know i turbocharged my sedan BY MYSELF so i made ALOT of noobie mistakes like not connecting the blow-off valve to vacumm just boost :laugh: but now i took out my motor and reaaallyyy build it by myself with forged internals:thumbup: after 2 weeks trying i cranked it up yesterday now to set the idle rpm and the break-in period and then dynoooo!!! loll

ok.. back to you... about the lil oil problem yes i bought 3 cheap turbos and they leaked a lot but it was another problem.. but doing my research, talking to ppl.. i found out a great way to eliminate that... i dont know if youll understand but it is an "oil-restrictor" have you seen a NOS jet (yes, nitrous)?? i bought a nos jet adapter 1/8 npt and bought a i think it was a 45cc jet i don really remember and that lowers the volume and oil pressure going through the turbocharger thus not pushing oil to the sides thus leaking to your hot side of the turbocharger.... you just install the adapter on either end of the oil feed line.....in other words going from a burger king straw to a chinese rest. straw looolll......:biggrin:let me know if you understood...

[weapon5]

I want to build a costom turbo setup using mostly E-bay parts. I am thinking t25/28 turbo. I have found exhaust manafold/turbo, intercooler and piping,oil and water lines if needed. Also a air intake and filter to mount the mass air sensor. I am sure I will need to buy at least 1 more intercooler piping kit and a blow off valve. And I found a downpipe witch will need to be costomized from a nissan silvia. Or I will need a complete costom downpipe.

My questions are what piggy back system should I use to control injector pulse? Will I need bigger injectors right away? I am only looking for 150-170whp. Also should oil source for turbo be tapped from oil pressure sensor or do I need to buy adapter to tap near the filter? I am also sure a new clutch will be in my future shortly after install. I am thinking center force dual friction.
Also can I tune a piggy back system with a lap top and a wide band o2s or do you need some specialized training to complete this. I am a ase master tech for about 12 years, but I have never done tuning. Its just so dame expensive around Chicago. Very few places to go.:iono:

that turbo kit is ebay so i would suggest spend more cause that turbo kit is :thumbdown: but like i said is up to you. FYI for a good turbo kit and to save you the time and money get a real kit which are around 3k :D

[Bluevitz-rs]

that turbo kit is ebay so i would suggest spend more cause that turbo kit is :thumbdown: but like i said is up to you. FYI for a good turbo kit and to save you the time and money get a real kit which are around 3k :D

HAHA, wow, he's already built the turbo and is in the tuning process now.

[cali yaris]

.... make sure you are idling your motor for a minute or two before shutting it down, to let the oil cool a bit and drain. Especially if you're not using water lines to keep it cool during operation.

[pimp my yaris]

HAHA, wow, he's already built the turbo and is in the tuning process now.

Ya I guess he missed the previous 17 pages.

[pimp my yaris]

no prob believe me i've been through ALOOOTT i haven't even read here... just so you know i turbocharged my sedan BY MYSELF so i made ALOT of noobie mistakes like not connecting the blow-off valve to vacumm just boost :laugh: but now i took out my motor and reaaallyyy build it by myself with forged internals:thumbup: after 2 weeks trying i cranked it up yesterday now to set the idle rpm and the break-in period and then dynoooo!!! loll

ok.. back to you... about the lil oil problem yes i bought 3 cheap turbos and they leaked a lot but it was another problem.. but doing my research, talking to ppl.. i found out a great way to eliminate that... i dont know if youll understand but it is an "oil-restrictor" have you seen a NOS jet (yes, nitrous)?? i bought a nos jet adapter 1/8 npt and bought a i think it was a 45cc jet i don really remember and that lowers the volume and oil pressure going through the turbocharger thus not pushing oil to the sides thus leaking to your hot side of the turbocharger.... you just install the adapter on either end of the oil feed line.....in other words going from a burger king straw to a chinese rest. straw looolll......:biggrin:let me know if you understood...

I have a 1.5mm oil restrictor on my feed line. This was recomended for a journal bearing turbo. Ball bearing turbos use 1.0mm restrictor. So I know thats not my problem. I am sure the oil seal on the hot side is leaking oil into the exhaust. I am just debating if I should buy another GT25 nock off like I have now for 240$ and take my chances. Or buy a Garret gt2554r genuine artical for 1000$. Oh ya did I mention I'm poor and for me 1000$ is a lot of FLOW!:cry:

[Bluevitz-rs]

I'd find out if there's any shaft play first. If it's fine, I'd just re+re the seals and have another go at it. It's your cheapest option.

[pimp my yaris]

I'd find out if there's any shaft play first. If it's fine, I'd just re+re the seals and have another go at it. It's your cheapest option.

I checked the shaft play when I had the downpipe off last. It was OK. I'm not sure what [re+re] means. I am assuming that is canadian secret code for replace, LOL:biggrin:. I would love to replace the seal. I dont know where I could get a oil seal for some chinese nock off turbo though. I could not even read the hyroglifics on the box. If you have any ideas ??? let me know.

[cali yaris]

re+re = repair and replace

[Bluevitz-rs]

Well, I'd say that if it's a GT25 knock-off chances are a seal for real GT25 would work. It'd be worth a shot if it's only a few bucks.

Oh, and my version of re+re is remove and replace.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Out of curiosity, does the turbo need to be rebalanced if the seals are replaced?

I may be looking at doing the same thing unfortunately. I've been finding oil in the coupler where my BOV is. Could be left over, but I dunno :iono:

[Yoda]

Clean it and see if it comes back

[Dj WaRrIoR]

ok about re+re it ok but the tip is to mark the position of the nut with the axle so you know till what point adjust the nut so you would hold 95% of the balance when puting it back together..i did this with a file or if you want do it with a sharpie BUT DONT ERASE IT WHILE CLEANING!! but yes buy the seals of ebay if your knock off doesnt not have water lines (hibrid) look for dry turbo rebuild kit for your specific turbocharger.. mine was to3 but i dont know yours.. but important DRY!!! NOT wet because you dont have water lines goind through.. if you do that you can get a little more out of your knock off till you get some money for a real one.. and BTW i converted a cheap knock off into a 99.9% garret.. how? well we have a shop here that changed everything except my hot housing cuz i already had the cheap flange (4 bolt) for the down pipe.. it cost me around $300 and he even converte it to garret hybrid (wet) and believe me it is a real garret allaround ! compare 1,000 to 300 !! :evil: if you want here's his email...gigitoturbo@aol.com http://stores.ebay.com/Yiyito-Turbo-Service i know it is here in puerto rico but he has an ebay account too and i know for a fact he doesn't have a problem with shipping things.. so if you are interested send him an email explaining what you have and if you have that option of converting it and for how much..

[weapon5]

HAHA, wow, he's already built the turbo and is in the tuning process now.

yea very late didn't know it went on this long :iono:

[pimp my yaris]

OK I finally did some work to eliminate my smoke problem on cold engine starts. The problem has been getting progressivly worse as the weather gets colder. Their has been a lot of talk about where the oil return enters the pan. I dont believe that is the problem. But I admit its a possibility. My oil return was submerged in oil in the lower part of the pan. So this weekend I removed the right side axel and relocated the return to the top of the pan above the oil level. I also switched from a 1/4npt fitting and a 3/8in hose to a more free flowing 3/8npt fitting and a 1/2in hose. The thing is huge. For sure if I continue to have a cold start smoke problem, I know it will not be the return. I have finished the work and just need to fill with fluids tomarrow after my silicone drys on my oil pan. I will also take a pic. tomarrow.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

OK I finally did some work to eliminate my smoke problem on cold engine starts. The problem has been getting progressivly worse as the weather gets colder. Their has been a lot of talk about where the oil return enters the pan. I dont believe that is the problem. But I admit its a possibility. My oil return was submerged in oil in the lower part of the pan. So this weekend I removed the right side axel and relocated the return to the top of the pan above the oil level. I also switched from a 1/4npt fitting and a 3/8in hose to a more free flowing 3/8npt fitting and a 1/2in hose. The thing is huge. For sure if I continue to have a cold start smoke problem, I know it will not be the return. I have finished the work and just need to fill with fluids tomarrow after my silicone drys on my oil pan. I will also take a pic. tomarrow.

When you say 1/2in hose, do you mean a -8 AN line? The first thing I was thinking about doing was increasing the size of the line.

Also, since we tuned the same way - are you noticing irregularities in your map? For example, now that it's cold and my IAT is hovering around 30F, I've noticed my AFRs have richened by as much as a whole point. I'm thinking colder IATs force the ECU to change the open loop maps slightly. It may not even be the IATs, but I had perfectly accurate AFRs until it got REALLY cold the last week.

[cali yaris]

pimp, you changed the location AND the size? I think it will be hard to tell which change fixed the problem.

[pimp my yaris]

Well so far so good. I have only started the car once after the repair but so far no smoke. I will know more after I start my car to go home from work at 10pm. If this is all I needed I will be so happy. I was ready to throw down $915 for a garrett GT2554R. I thought the oil seals were bad on my turbo. The turbo I am using works great and spools really fast. The only problem I had was the smokey exhaust.
I would much rather use the cash for a vacation to Mexico :biggrin:

O' ya this is the artical reguarding oil drains, I read when shopping for garrett turbos on their web site. Very informative. And thanks Cdydjded for bringing this up when we talked.

OIL LEAKAGE SHOULD NOT OCCUR ON A PROPERLY FUNCTIONING
SYSTEM IF RESTRICTOR IS NOT USED UNLESS THE SYSTEM
PRESSURE IS EXCESSIVELY HIGH.

Oil Drain
In general, the larger the oil drain, the better. However, a -10AN is typically sufficient
for proper oil drainage, but try not to have an inner diameter smaller than the drain hole
in the housing as this will likely cause the oil to back up in the center housing. Speaking
of oil backing up in the center housing, a gravity feed needs to be just that! The oil
outlet should follow the direction of gravity +/-35° when installed in the vehicle on level
ground. If a gravity feed is not possible, a scavenge pump should be used to insure that
oil flows freely away from the center housing.
Avoid:

■Undulations in the line or extended lengths parallel to the ground
■Draining into oil pan below oil level
■Dead heading into a component behind the oil pan
■Area behind the oil pan (windage tray window) where oil sling occurs from crankshaft

When installing your turbocharger, insure that the turbocharger axis of rotation is parallel
to the level ground within +/- 15°. This means that the oil inlet/outlet should be within
15° of being perpendicular to level ground.

[pimp my yaris]

My computer cuts fuel at 115mph. Its like hitting a brick wall. Has anyone bypassed this problem yet. I want to pin this speedo :eek:

[pimp my yaris]

I can now say for sure my problem is fixed. No more smoking out my neighbors while my car warms up. And my co-workers cant call my Yaris a bug fogger any more. Glad it was a easy fix.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I can now say for sure my problem is fixed. No more smoking out my neighbors while my car warms up. And my co-workers cant call my Yaris a bug fogger any more. Glad it was a easy fix.

Awesome. I'm gonna follow suite when the semester ends.

How's your tune holding up though? I'm still having weird richening problems.

[pimp my yaris]

Pics:biggrin: Old location of drain is the brass plug :burnrubber:

[pimp my yaris]

[QUOTE=Focus_Sh1ft;537902]Awesome. I'm gonna follow suite when the semester ends.

How's your tune holding up though? I'm still having weird richening problems.[/QUOTE
The oil line may be causing your oil in the intake problem. My tune is working ok, but I still need to get some bigger injectors. I always shift early to avoid going to lean.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Thanks for the pics :thumbsup:

Yeah I really can't explain what's happening. Suddenly my tune was a whole point richer than what I had tuned for. Today I reset codes, plugged in the O2 sensor briefly, then unplugged it. Now I'm back at my expected AFRs. My O2 sensor might be shot as well because I got P2237 after it was in for awhile (open circuit). I've got another 2 years until emissions so no biggie :smile:

And Carlos, if both you AND Garrett end up being wrong about the return... I don't even know WHAT to think. :tongue:

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Cmon! Its not just me & Garrett, its 99.9999% of the boosted world out there that have their returns above the oil line. Why must we piss against the wind?

So I'm the .0001%? I need to get with the times. :cool:

I was worried about the whole froth thing, because it did make sense, but after seeing this it's clearly a non issue.

[pimp my yaris]

PIMP: Im glad you changed you set up. Noticed you are coming out of the turbo with a 90 deg, why dont you clock the cartridge so you could come straight out? It would be alot better.

If you check that artical from Garrett's web sight, at the bottom it says turbo oil inlet-outlet should be within 15 degrees perpendicular to the ground. I have my turbo clocked so its exactly perpendicular. Thats so oil does not pool in the cartrige. Could cause more smoke

[PETERPOOP]

let's hope in the car.

[fnkngrv]

I was thinking of mounting mine in the front license plate area...that would be cool.....














if you believe this I have some awesome Ocean Front property in Oklahoma.

[pimp my yaris]

Mine is behind glove box door under dash. Their is a factory hole with a rubber plug just above factory ECM. This is where I ran my wiring. I drilled a second hole next to it for vaccume line to FIC.

[pimp my yaris]

What spark plugs are U guys running? And what gap?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Mine's also under the glove compartment.

What spark plugs are U guys running? And what gap?

I've been wondering this too... How important is it that I change to spark plugs more ideal for a FI application? I was under the impression it really didn't matter.

[PETERPOOP]

copper plugs or Iridium plugs

[pimp my yaris]

I just installed some NGK BKR7E plugs. They did not have the iridium BKR7EIX in stock and they were 10$ each. I will see how these work.:biggrin:

[PETERPOOP]

What gap did you set?

[pimp my yaris]

Unfortunatly I could not find my plug gapper, so I installed strait out of package after looking them over.

[pimp my yaris]

For a long time I have had a occasional missfire under heavy load or full accel. I removed the spark plugs I installed previously and closed the gap to about half. I wanted to see if the smaller gap would lessen the load on the ignition coils, and it worked. No more missfire. It would cause a big jerk when it happened. Im sure the correct fix would be a stronger ignition system, but no flow for that now. Its nice when the car feels reliable like oem just with more power.

[cali yaris]

I removed the spark plugs I installed previously and closed the gap to about half

I'm glad it worked, but I suggest you gap those with a tool when you have a chance.

[ilikerice]

yeppers, i gapped my ngk vpower plugs at .22, i had that same problem. boost was blowing out my spark at full boost. was getting a jerk and misfire under hard acceleration. FYI, this was on my crx with 10psi, not my yaris

[Focus_Sh1ft]

AWESOME. This is just the information I was looking for. Recently I've been having the same problem but it has become more noticable. I always thought it was the transmission jerking because it always happens shortly after a shift into 3rd(?), but this sounds more likely. The sudden loss in power is a huge buzz kill.

I'm gonna swap my plugs. Recommendations? Thinking I'm going to get the same plugs if those are the one's that are a step colder than stock.

[ilikerice]

i used vpower ngk for all my honda engines. personal preference, but hope one of these other toyota boosted guys will share thier thoughts on plug preferences.

[pimp my yaris]

NGK's should be used on any asian brand car. Nippon Denso's can be used if NGK is not available. And no matter what dont ever use Bosch. You will have nothing but headaches and missfire problems. And Champions are only for lawn mowers and chryslers.

[Parmas]

hope one of these other toyota boosted guys will share thier thoughts on plug preferences.

I use Denso IK22 Iridium Tough Power. They are one step colder than stock.

http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/power/lineup.html

[Bluevitz-rs]

NGK's should be used on any asian brand car. Nippon Denso's can be used if NGK is not available. And no matter what dont ever use Bosch. You will have nothing but headaches and missfire problems. And Champions are only for lawn mowers and chryslers.

I've had bosch platinum 4's in my car for 30 000 km now with no problems. But on the other hand I'll be going back to NGK or Denso when these are done. the price isn't worth it.

[victorddr]

This is a very interesting post, I spent almost 3.5hrs to finish the whole thread.

What the total you spent so far?

I wish I can build a nice and budget turbo like you did. Too bad it can't be happen until I buy-back my leasing Yaris (1 more Year from now)

Hopefully you guys will have a perfect tuning with FIC by that time.....

[pimp my yaris]

With piggy back and exhaust I would say about 2000 to 2200 bones

[TRD_Turbo_Yazza]

get the scion turbo upgrade thats for the same engine in the yaris and then put a bigger turbo n intercooler on yu get the whole kit then

[victorddr]

get the scion turbo upgrade thats for the same engine in the yaris and then put a bigger turbo n intercooler on yu get the whole kit then

Do you have some spec and pricing for that turbo kit? Very interested.

[victorddr]

With piggy back and exhaust I would say about 2000 to 2200 bones

Can you post a summarized list for the parts that you purchased for this project since it hard to flip through the whole thread again!!:bow:

I think I will start gathering the parts through out this year, so by next year I can start mine once I the car off... (Limited Cash FLow:iono:)

[pimp my yaris]

[QUOTE=victorddr;547664]Can you post a summarized list for the parts that you purchased for this project since it hard to flip through the whole thread again!!:bow:

Exhaust manafold
Turbo
Oil feed and drain line for turbo
Assorted fittings to attach oil and coolant lines to turbo
Coolant lines for turbo
Intake piping turbo to intercooler
Intake piping intercooler to throttle body
Intercooler
Turbo exhaust flange
Custom downpipe with flex fitting
Custom exhaust
Blow off valve or recirc valve
Piggy back computer IE: Greddy E-manage, AEM FIC
Bigger injectors if running more then 6 PSI

[pimp my yaris]

My exhaust manafold CRACKED! Now I have a exhaust leak under the hood and I am being gassed when stopped at idle. It is worst when the engine is cold, and gets a little more quite when the exhaust is hot and expanded. I took pics after removing my 35$ turbo heat sheild. Heat sheild is now shredded, its only good for one use. Forgot cable to attach camera to puter. Garm I hope your listening, this is from your store. I will send a message to you soon. :cry:

[pimp my yaris]

Ok I just got a call back from Garm (Cali Yaris) at Micro Image. And he said he will warranty my manafold and cover shipping to return the cracked manafold. Thats A-one service in my book. I understand shit happens and parts break, but its much less of a hassel when the seller stands behind there product. :thumbsup:

[Yoda]

good hear man!

[Bluevitz-rs]

:thumbup: for Micro Image
:thumbdown: for "shit happens"

[PETERPOOP]

TOO MUCH POWER!

[Yoda]

TOO MUCH POWER!

What?NEVA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MORE POWAAAAAAAAAA:burnrubber::eyebulge:

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Here's your problem:

I drive it like I stole it. Floored several times a day.



... Or is it the solution? :biggrin:

[cali yaris]

going out today, but you didn't answer my email yet: "Do you have the mani with the external wastegate flange?"

And an important question: Are you using anything to limit engine movement?

[pimp my yaris]

going out today, but you didn't answer my email yet: "Do you have the mani with the external wastegate flange?"

And an important question: Are you using anything to limit engine movement?

E mail answered. I do not have anything to control engine movement but I do have a mesh flex fitting on my downpipe to allow engine twist. I have been looking for somekind of brace or arm for the top of the motor to control twist but I haven't found anything. What are U using Garm? And lets see it on your web store soon.

[pimp my yaris]

Pics of cracked manafold. Garm is sending new mani. made by someone named Dezod. Hopefully it wont require to much modification. Its going to be 9 degrees here on friday. :eek:

[Bluevitz-rs]

Do you know anyone with a welder that could run a quick beed along some of the crack to seal it up for now?

I did that for a friend and got him through for a few months before he got a new manifold. Did it right on the car.

[pimp my yaris]

Ya I might have to do that. I dont know if the new manafold will mount the turbo in the same place and same position. I dont want to deal with fabricating a new down pipe in the middle of winter.

[Yoda]

Yo pimp how where your afrs with the exhaust leak? Where you lean at idle and cruise?

[pimp my yaris]

Yo pimp how where your afrs with the exhaust leak? Where you lean at idle and cruise?

Very lean at idle and not much change at cruise. When the manafold gets hot it expands and the leak gets smaller and is not so loud. When cold, U can hear it poping under the hood. Its been sub zero here at night and very cold. I hope I can change to new manafold sent from Garm on thur. and fri. it should get up to 33 degrees. Heat wave!!:bellyroll:

[fnkngrv]

it should get up to 33 degrees. Heat wave!!:bellyroll:

that is balmy for this time of year in Chi Town

[pimp my yaris]

Here are some pics of the new manafold. Im not sure if it will work without a new down pipe. The flange where the turbo mounts up has been welded a little crooked, as seen by the ruler in the picture. It doesn't look like much but the angle will be very exaggerated by the length of the downpipe. It may not meet up with the exhaust center pipe. If that is the case I will need to have the old manafold welded as a temporary fix until the weather warms up and I can have a new 2.5" downpipe fabricated. My current downpipe is 2.0".:frown:

[cali yaris]

^ have to ask Dezod, they made this batch.

[pimp my yaris]

More fucking problems! This explains everything, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJeAYJdOjPo

[Shinare]

sux dude. I can hear your frustration/disappointment in your voice. Can you get a better bearing and fix what you got or is it just garbage now?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Shit man, I feel for ya. Hopefully your engine is going to be alright :frown:

If you got the cash, now would be a better time than ever to get a 2554r.

[Yoda]

Ahhh shit that means mine is next to go FFS. Time to start saving. Would atleast thought I could get a year out of it first... Dang!

[pimp my yaris]

Well my car is back to stock now. Today it turned into a snow plow on my way back home from work in this BLIZZARD. Now its thunder lightning and snowing outside. Really fucked up. I dont think the Yaris will make it to work tomarrow. Its just to low!

[cali yaris]

well crap, sorry about that. Can you publish the eBay link or seller's name or whatever to others know which turbo this was?

Hope you can get boosted again when your weather gets better!

[Nexus1155]

Please do post a link, it would be much appreciated. China turbos are hit or miss unless its from a reputable place.

[pimp my yaris]

This was the turbo I was using. You will find it by searching "GT25 turbo". If it has the word GODSPEED in the picture, stay away. There are several different sellers of this turbo. Or possible one seller using several different names. One thing I would like to note I was using a 1.5mm oil restrictor on my banjo bolt for oil line. I was doing some reading on Garretts web sight and found journal bearing turbo's dont need a oil restrictor unless they are blowing oil through the seals. The restrictor I was using was made for a journal bearing turbo.
But if you want less problems just buy the Garrett turbo and do it right. And read and follow all instructions on there web sight. I guess its possible the turbo failed early due to the restrictor??? I am not sure. I plan on going turbo again as soon as the weather allows. I am also going to get a Tig welder to buid my own exhaust and downpipe.

[pimp my yaris]

Some pics of my car in the Chicago Blizzard!:eyebulge:

[Yoda]

Dude WTF is that? Is that snow!? It cant be.Lol omg thank god I live in Florida.

[Bluevitz-rs]

We're going to have to start saying the great white south LMAO. You've got WAY more snow than I do.

[pimp my yaris]

Is anyone welding there own exhaust pipes. I'm looking into buying a welder and I'm having trouble deciding what type of welder to go with. MIG, TIG or a cheap flux core wire welder that doesn't use any gas. I want to be able to weld stainless and aluminized exhaust pipes. I am very limited by the fact I can only use 120 volt set up in my town house.

[cali yaris]

I'm shopping too. I've been told that for aluminum I have to get a TIG.

[Bluevitz-rs]

For Aluminum, you need an AC welder for TIG and I'm pretty sure for MIG as well. TIG is not for beginners, so if you've never really welded before go with a MIG. You can buy the adapters for welding Aluminum, but again, I'm pretty sure it needs to be capable of doing AC. Most steel is welded with DC, and most cheaper welders are DC only.

[pimp my yaris]

I think I will go with a mig welder. My stainless exhaust was welded with a mig and its not pretty but its solid with no cracks. Although I hear Tig is the best for stainless, its sounds like more trouble and expense. The guy who welded my exhaust said you can weld stainless with a mig welder, but U need to be fast or it will burn through the pipe.

[scioncrew]

Is anyone welding there own exhaust pipes. I'm looking into buying a welder and I'm having trouble deciding what type of welder to go with. MIG, TIG or a cheap flux core wire welder that doesn't use any gas. I want to be able to weld stainless and aluminized exhaust pipes. I am very limited by the fact I can only use 120 volt set up in my town house.

this will work for you. :thumbup:
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/product.php?model=M00152

[cali yaris]

^ Yeah. I want it.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/commercial/files/images/product-media/large/Maxstar_150_STL.png

[pimp my yaris]

One more. A lot cheaper. Rand 100amp stick/TIG http://cgi.ebay.com/Rand-TIG-Stick-Welder-100-amp-120V-Arc-MMA-110V-110-120-/270701889594?pt=BI_Welders&hash=item3f0717083a

[Bluevitz-rs]

yeah, but neither of those will do aluminum. They need to output high frequency AC.

[scioncrew]

he didnt say he was going to weld aluminum. any ways check this one out
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/dynasty_200_series/

[cali yaris]

^ $6k? ouch!

Can't I get a good 220v TIG for around $3k that will weld aluminum?

[Bluevitz-rs]

...I want to be able to weld stainless and aluminized exhaust pipes...

I miss red this as aluminum pipe. :wink:

[pimp my yaris]

Headed to Florida for Daytona bike week. Wish I had my turbo back on. I hate downshifting in the mountains when pulling my trailer. I had the crack in my manafold welded and now I'm waiting for my friend to mill about .0020" off the engine side as it is badly warped. I guess I got it a little bit hot. :biggrin:

[pimp my yaris]

Started working on the car again today. Mounted new manafold, new turbo and managed to get my old downpipe to fit with some clearance. Should be driving by thur. or fri. I drilled out my banjo bolt on my oil feed line so it will no longer act as a oil restrictor. Hopefully this will keep my turbo bearings spinning for longer then four months.

[Yoda]

What turbo did you get?

[pimp my yaris]

What turbo did you get?

Unfortunatly I could not come up with the cash for the Garrett gt 2554r. So for now I bought the same old cheap turbo I had before. I reused my modified compressor housing on the new turbo. I also ground down the divider wall between the wastegate and turbine wheel. It is givin me very consistant 7psi with no boost creep. The car is runing great and I even blew the discharge tube off the turbo once. Just a loose clamp. So glad my car has balls again. You can see in the pics where the old compressor wheel started to contact the housing when the bearings wore out.

[cali yaris]

welcome back :smile:

[pimp my yaris]

I know its only been a couple of weeks but I pulled off my intake hose and checked the turbo bearings for wear. They are looking good. No noticable play at all. I think my problems with the previous turbo were caused by that oil restrictor. I guess I will check again in a month or so. I also made a bracket from a piece of L-shaped steel stock to support the added weight of the turbo manafold and turbo. Hopefully this will help prevent the manafold from cracking again.

[Yoda]

nice welcome back. I have been running a restrictor on mine for about 3 months and no play at all on my turbo. But i did find out where that smoke was coming from. Need to replace the exhaust gasket. Is your wastegate set at 7 psi or are you using the same old spring trick?

[cali yaris]

Hopefully this will help prevent the manafold from cracking again.

Did you put on the replacement manifold I sent you?

[pimp my yaris]

My previous set up used a 1.5mm restrictor that came with my oil line. I thought it was needed to maintain proper oil pressure in the engine. My turbo was trashed after 4 months. More recently I did a lot of reading on Garretts web sight and they say no restrictor is needed unless you have so much oil pressure its leaking through the seals into the intake or exhaust. I looked inside my turbo and it looks to have its own restrictor built in. Its bigger then 1.5mm, mabe 3mm. So far everything going well. And yes I am still using a extra spring to pull my wastegate open at a lower pressure. i still need to buy some lager injectors soon. Mabe then run at 8-9 psi

[pimp my yaris]

Did you put on the replacement manifold I sent you?

Yes

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Awww yeah :thumbup:

[pimp my yaris]

Ordered some used 2azfe injectors today. Looking forward to doing some more tuning and mabe a dyno run while its still cold outside. I saw no noticable difference in afr using 1zz injectors from a 99 corolla.

[Parmas]

My previous set up used a 1.5mm restrictor that came with my oil line. I thought it was needed to maintain proper oil pressure in the engine. My turbo was trashed after 4 months. More recently I did a lot of reading on Garretts web sight and they say no restrictor is needed unless you have so much oil pressure its leaking through the seals into the intake or exhaust. I looked inside my turbo and it looks to have its own restrictor built in. Its bigger then 1.5mm, mabe 3mm. So far everything going well. And yes I am still using a extra spring to pull my wastegate open at a lower pressure. i still need to buy some lager injectors soon. Mabe then run at 8-9 psi

I am running 1mm restrictor in my GT2560R turbo as recommended by Garrett.

Looking from the oil feed you can see a 3mm restrictor but that is not the proper restrictor to use.

[pimp my yaris]

I am running 1mm restrictor in my GT2560R turbo as recommended by Garrett.

Looking from the oil feed you can see a 3mm restrictor but that is not the proper restrictor to use.

I believe the 2560r is a ball bearing turbo, but for a journal bearing turbo like mine, Garrett recomends no restrictor.

[Parmas]

I believe the 2560r is a ball bearing turbo, but for a journal bearing turbo like mine, Garrett recomends no restrictor.

I didn't knew yours was not ball bearing. If so then you should not restrict the oil feed line.

Do you know what oil pressure you have at the turbo feed line?

[pimp my yaris]

I didn't knew yours was not ball bearing. If so then you should not restrict the oil feed line.

Do you know what oil pressure you have at the turbo feed line?

No, but its a 4an line so there should be plenty of oil flow.

[pimp my yaris]

Yesterday I installed 2azfe injectors from a 08 scion TC. Then spent about an hour driving around and retuning with the AEM FIC. Got it running great and may only need some slight tweeking in the future. I first tryed using my previous map and changed the injector size in the FIC software. That did not work so well, so I had to start from scratch making a new map. The stock injectors could not keep up at high rpm. Now I need a dyno run soon.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ Just be ready for super rich AFRs next winter. The ECU will be increasing the duty cycle for cold weather compensation and it's going to be expecting 200ish cc injectors and tCs are what, 360?

[PETERPOOP]

yes, dyno run soon please

[pimp my yaris]

^ Just be ready for super rich AFRs next winter. The ECU will be increasing the duty cycle for cold weather compensation and it's going to be expecting 200ish cc injectors and tCs are what, 360?

Oh ya. On my first start up the car would barely run. My wide band was pegged at 10:1. Most of my new fuel map is pulling duty cycle back with negative percentages. I am running positive percentages in high boost. The FIC actually zeros out (no intervention) at about 2 psi of boost. At idle its negative 27%

[Yoda]

how is your timing? i can send you the tune i got if ya want

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ Who was that? It's not exactly a hard concept to grasp...

Anyways, I could have sworn the FIC causes hesitation at 0 and below in its maps. So pulling fuel actually works? That means I can stop skewing the MAF! :biggrin:

[Parmas]

Oh ya. On my first start up the car would barely run. My wide band was pegged at 10:1. Most of my new fuel map is pulling duty cycle back with negative percentages. I am running positive percentages in high boost. The FIC actually zeros out (no intervention) at about 2 psi of boost. At idle its negative 27%

I think you must precise more this post when saying " I am running positive percentages in high boost". How much positive and how much boost?

Running low AFRs are not very good to the engine. Excess fuel tend to mix with engine oil and you can see it dirty after 2 runs already. Running dirty oil mixed with fuel tend to make flash marks on the cylinder bores due too low lubrication to the piston rings. Also turbo bearings tend to fail earlier because of this. I am mentioning this from experience so prevent running the engine like this.

Do you have an upgraded fuel pressure regulator? With the regulator you can reduce fuel pressure and equalizing fuel ratios (although I don't know how the stock ecu reacts having it installed)

[pimp my yaris]

After tuning I am idling at 13.5 to 14:1 afr with the engine warm. When under full throttle my map maintains about 11.5:1 afr. So far its running great and the engine runs very smooth. And Focus, about that hesitation under acceleration I am almost sure its caused by the ignition system and not the FIC. I replaced my spark plugs with a colder heat range and closed the gap very small. This made a huge difference as the spark needs less voltage to jump the smaller gap. I still sometimes have a hesitation but much less often. I think the only way to correct this completely would be better ignition coils. I have heard of boost actually blowing out the spark when more air rushes into the combustion chamber. Have you corrected your hesitation? :iono:

[Yoda]

It was the resident jackass, Ill give you one guess. And yes the FIC does not like 0's in a cell inside the fuel map.

Yup that caused my bogging and hesitation.

[Yoda]

How many of the maps are you using? I just use the fuel map using the built in map sensor & timing map by TPS position......

3 maps. fuel maf and ignition. tho i could hook up the o2 map but ehhh too lazy.

[pimp my yaris]

Those are the same maps I use. I pull 2 degrees of timing at high rpm for safety sake. And I think I have the maf clamped at 3.1v. I dont actually have any zeros in my fuel map. Around 2 psi the numbers switch from negative to positive percentages.

[Yoda]

Those are the same maps I use. I pull 2 degrees of timing at high rpm for safety sake. And I think I have the maf clamped at 3.1v. I dont actually have any zeros in my fuel map. Around 2 psi the numbers switch from negative to positive percentages.

You might have a little knock when it gets hot. My timing is pulled by like 6 I think. My maf is clamped around the same

[pimp my yaris]

Turned up the hairdryer a little! A couple of days ago I went from 7psi to 8.5! Its a nice kick in the pants. I can really her that thing screaming now.

[PETERPOOP]

Nice. I've been running mine at 8.5-9lbs. Love it. Hope it don't blow soon. ;)

[pimp my yaris]

Nice. I've been running mine at 8.5-9lbs. Love it. Hope it don't blow soon. ;)

Me too

[pimp my yaris]

I leaned out from about 11.5 to 12.5:1 afr after raising the boost. Looks like some fuel system upgrades are needed. Going to work on the pump again this weekend.

[pimp my yaris]

Well over the weekend I managed to get my 255lph pump installed into the stock fuel filter and regulator inside the tank. I tryed to do this once before with no success. I found previously the pump was loud and overheated in about five minutes of driving and the car would dye out. This time I found the pump was restricted because the outlet tube on the pump is longer then the stock pump. So the tube would bottom out in the filter and restrict flow. So this time I shaved on a angle a little over half the outlet tube on the new pump. This mabe a little hard to picture but it allows the fuel to enter the filter without restriction. I also had to use a larger O-ring to seal the pump tube inside the factory filter that sourounds the pump. Now it is only slightly louder then the factory pump and has been working great from sat. Also my afr has returned to 11.5:1. :thumbsup:

[pimp my yaris]

Last weekend I installed a new 3 1/4 inch autometer phantom tach and new JVC 7" touch screen head unit. Also recently installed new Federal 215/40/17 tires. They just barely fit and they rub very slightly on the tie rod when turned to the stop. But look great. Also rerouted my intake tubing and moved the air filter to clean up the engine compartment a little. I am having a spoiler for the rear hatch painted this week. I am loving this little pocket rocket now.:biggrin:

[aruester]

Great job pimp! It took a couple days but I read the whole thread lol. I will be starting my Turbo project one day soon and it will be my first so this was VERY enlightening!

Does ur glove box still open? That is a very clean install from the looks!! I like!

[pimp my yaris]

Great job pimp! It took a couple days but I read the whole thread lol. I will be starting my Turbo project one day soon and it will be my first so this was VERY enlightening!

Does ur glove box still open? That is a very clean install from the looks!! I like!

Yes the Glove box still opens, but there is a hole cut in the pocket behind both of the guages for clearance and wiring. I dont use it anymore.

[pimp my yaris]

I installed a new spoiler that I ordered on E-bay from China. It was actual plastic [not fiberglass] and its working well. Not to big and not to small, I think. Also towed some friends to a track day with there bikes. With so much weight on the back of the weeee Yaris it sounds like a diesel truck with the turbo. Still had plenty of pull though. One tough car! :thumbsup:

[pimp my yaris]

Going on a ride today with some friends from Supra forums. Going to some twisty roads to a state park for a little picnic and bullshiting. My friends Supra is pushing 932 ponies to the rear wheels. His turbo is the size of a large dinner plate. His girl friends supra is pushing 420 to the rear wheels with a single turbo conversion. Must be nice to have money. Im sure I will be the only turbo Yaris there, but Im gonna represent! :biggrin:

[Yoda]

Do it n take pics

[pimp my yaris]

Well our Picnic got rained out and postponed to next sunday. I still took pics of some sweet rides.

[PETERPOOP]

MKIVs :)

[pimp my yaris]

Removed my exhaust manafold today and repaird a exhaust leak caused by a stripped manafold bolt. I stripped the bolt hole when the first turbo manafold I had installed cracked. Becaused of the hard to see location of the manafold, I originally thought it loosened up causing the gasket to leak. I overtightened the bolts. I later found the manafold had cracked causing the leak. Garm at Micro Image warrantied the cracked manafold and sent a new one. The new one is working well. I have put off this repair all summer because of the heat and I was not looking forward to installing a helicoil in such a tight location behind the engine.
Well its done and I think it worked out ok. I even installed a new oem manafold gasket. While I was in there I also cranked up the boost a little. Its about 9.5 psi now. I will post later how this all works out. :iono:

[cali yaris]

Excellent, can't wait to hear more.

[pimp my yaris]

I was planing on getting some dyno testing this week but my stock clutch is starting to slip. Not horrible yet. But it is definitely slipping. I may need to swap it out before it gets to cold out. Going to do some internet shopping.

[Yoda]

Mine has already started to slip. Think I gonna put up back my exhuast casue I am having some boost creep. Sigh should have went external wastegate lol.

[pimp my yaris]

Sigh should have went external wastegate lol.[/QUOTE]

Me to

[pimp my yaris]

Well my clutch can no longer hold up at all. My car has gotten more power then ever now that temps. have got colder. If I nail it in 3-5 gears my clutch will break loose and freewheel, and it will bounce off the rev limiter.

So today I took my trans. out and inspected my flywheel. It still looks ok and hasent turned blue yet. I have heavy duty F1 stage 3 clutch I ordered last week. Tomarrow I will install. Today my back is killing me!:cry:
Stay tuned.

[pimp my yaris]

pics

[Parmas]

Oh my... its seems you have some work to do to clear up the mess...

Hope all goes fine.... btw whats about the internal wastegate? I am running with it with no problems at all at least on 10psi

[pimp my yaris]

New clutch is in and I have been driving for about 100 mi now. My pedal pressure is good only slightly harder to push then stock. It is a little grabby and takes some getting use to. It does not slip at all now on the highway. I am still working on smooth starts. The friction disk is very sticky, but I think its still breaking in. I am going for a Dyno run on Tuesday. I am hoping for 200whp.

[pimp my yaris]

Oh my... its seems you have some work to do to clear up the mess...

Hope all goes fine.... btw whats about the internal wastegate? I am running with it with no problems at all at least on 10psi

My internal wastegate wont open till about 12 psi and I had to add a extra spring to pull the wastegate open sooner. I wish I would have got an external wastegate with a 7PSI spring and a dump tube to vent it.:biggrin:

[cali yaris]

Nice. Can't wait to see some dyno pulls. Great work so far. :bow:

[pimp my yaris]

Went for a dyno run today. One run was 183whp and one run was 181whp. My spark seemed to cut out before the rev limiter and it was running a little rich. Still not bad. I was hoping for 200 though. Of coarse he printed me the lower hp run. So here it is. Time for a junk yard motor buid up with pistons and rods and mabe some porting for the head.:iono:

video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-Y028Aw4HA

[Yoda]

finally Nice job! what psi was this at?

[pimp my yaris]

finally Nice job! what psi was this at?

About 9.5psi. I am making some tuning changes and I am going to buy some new spark plugs. I just payed mycar off on monday. More money to toy with.:biggrin:

[Parmas]

That is a nice result out there.... remind me... is the engine still stock internally?

Mine is running 211bhp on 10psi .... stock head and no porting. Also mine is at 184 torque.

If it's still stock I would not rev it hard with that power

[Shinare]

is it cheaper to buy a new lump than beef up a stock one? I mean, if you blow up your engine, whats the loss? A few hundred dollars? hehe

[cali yaris]

^ If you throw too much boost at it, it could blow up VERY fast -- it's a hassle to swap engines often, unless you have a crew. :wink:

Further, you can build a motor to handle boost better than stock e.g., lower compression pistons.

[pimp my yaris]

Completely stock, I have been driving it hard. I dont think I will raise the boost without a rebuild.

[Shinare]

What I've gatherd among boosted guys around here that 6-8 psi is a good range for stock daily drivers. Enough "oompf" for fun yet not too hard on the engine. Is that a good conclusion?


http://shop.microimageonline.com/ZAGE-turbo-kit-YARIS-Zage-tky.htm
somday it will be mine... oh yes... it will be mine.

[cali yaris]

^ Yes.

[pimp my yaris]

Took the weeeee Yari down to Miami for a week. Pulled my trailer with my motorcycle and did some riding around south beach and keys. I am glad to say I did not have any problems. The car ran great. I brought many tools and my lap top for emergency retuning if needed. I did not touch any of that. The turbo got a hell of a work out over the mountains. I did need to have a much quiter muffler welded on in Florida before the ride home. My cherry bomb style muffler just about drove me insane on the drive down. I was wearing ear plugs and still got a massive headache. I think I will pull the intake tube off and check those bearings soon. I was never able to drive with the trailer over mountains with the cruise control on before. It maintained 75mph or more all day. Sounded like diesel truck too. Awsome :biggrin:

[TURBO YARIS]

Im in Miami if you want to meet up. Also I can take you to the best muffler shop in town. They have a mandrel bend machine & can make anything you need.

[fnkngrv]

Im in Miami if you want to meet up. Also I can take you to the best muffler shop in town. They have a mandrel bend machine & can make anything you need.


I love the work the shop did that Carlos sent me to and they were great for customer service.

[pimp my yaris]

Thanks for the offer. I already had a 2.25" Trush turbo muffler welded on. It was some discount muffler place. They charged me 90$ and did a great job. I was able to drive home without loosing my mind.

[wildcard]

Please for the love of god get that poor bike some better tires than those shinko's.

[pimp my yaris]

10 psi still going. Just wanted to post some pice of my blow off recirc. setup. Not the best looking but it works great. Also in the turbo pics. U can see the brace I put on to support the weight of the turbo. It drops down from the bottom of the down pipe.

[yaris2010RS]

it took me about 3.5 hours but i finally read and completly understood just about everything. lol

Great write up and great help/advice from others. i will hopefully be starting my install in about 2 weeks and this thread made things alot clearer.

[pimp my yaris]

Its all worth it. It will make your car a blast to drive. I always get a thumbs up from the turbo neon guys and Subie wrx owners. Its so much fun smoking those turbo coopers.

[yaris2010RS]

where did u hook up your bov vacume line to?

[pimp my yaris]

I put a vaccume T off the evap. purge solinoid. The line attaches on the intake near the throttle body.

[cali yaris]

t took me about 3.5 hours but i finally read and completly understood just about everything. lol

You are ready, young padawan....

[pimp my yaris]

Made A big move yesterday and cranked up the turbo to 12psi. Hade to make a competely new map for my FIC. Old map was only good to 10psi. Its was running VERY STRONG for about an hour of very hard driving. Then I noticed the AFR's were getting a little lean. I will do some retuning if possible. I may need more fuel system upgrades at this power level. Possibly new rail with a return line or even lager injectors? The good news is I am no longer using that jimmy rigged pull spring on my wastegate as my boost controller.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Boy you're getting brave. Do you have a spare motor just in case?

[Yoda]

Made A big move yesterday and cranked up the turbo to 12psi. Hade to make a competely new map for my FIC. Old map was only good to 10psi. Its was running VERY STRONG for about an hour of very hard driving. Then I noticed the AFR's were getting a little lean. I will do some retuning if possible. I may need more fuel system upgrades at this power level. Possibly new rail with a return line or even lager injectors? The good news is I am no longer using that jimmy rigged pull spring on my wastegate as my boost controller.

Before you continue do a compression test so we can see what it is before 12. Your rods are goona be the first thing to go. Careful you don't burn up the exhaust valves that can make it show lean sometimes. And Dyno that thing so you can brag about it:w00t:

[pimp my yaris]

Latest vid of stock 1nzfe at 12psi. Actually spikes to 13psi before dropping to 12psi. This was a forth gear roll on. Sorry, Im not good with filming.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfaEWtgguvo&feature=youtu.be

[pimp my yaris]

Did another dyno run at Sound Performance in Bensenville Il. They squezzed me in on a Buick dyno shootout on saturday. I pulled 197whp on a mustang dyno. They typically read 5% lower then Dynapac dynos.

[cali yaris]

OH yeah, nice!

[why?]

that is awesome.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

So ridiculous... I would have never thought our engines could put down so much power stock.

[Schizoprenia]

OK I finally did some work to eliminate my smoke problem on cold engine starts. The problem has been getting progressivly worse as the weather gets colder. Their has been a lot of talk about where the oil return enters the pan. I dont believe that is the problem. But I admit its a possibility. My oil return was submerged in oil in the lower part of the pan. So this weekend I removed the right side axel and relocated the return to the top of the pan above the oil level. I also switched from a 1/4npt fitting and a 3/8in hose to a more free flowing 3/8npt fitting and a 1/2in hose. The thing is huge. For sure if I continue to have a cold start smoke problem, I know it will not be the return. I have finished the work and just need to fill with fluids tomarrow after my silicone drys on my oil pan. I will also take a pic. tomarrow.

how hard is it to remove the axel?

[pimp my yaris]

how hard is it to remove the axel?

Not to hard. You must remove right front wheel. Then remove the bolt on the spindle that clamps the lower ball joint to the spindle. Then you must remove the nut that holds the axel in the center of the front hub. I believe its 30mm and must be a twelve point socket. Then slide the axel out of the front hub and slide the ball joint out of the spindle. Then you can pull the rotor hub and caliper can be pulled out of the way and tied up. Then using a pry bar you can pop the axel out of the transmission. Drain transmission fluid out first or it will be messy. Muake sure if the axel needs to be hammered out of the front hub the threads are not damaged. Air tools and a compressor make this job much easier.

[pimp my yaris]

Well a couple of days ago I was driving to the grocery store and when I was leaving my neighborhood I nailed the gas in second gear. The tires broke loose and kept spinning until about 50mph. When I let of the gas and shifted into third gear I heard a loud knocking noise tied with rpm. I pulled over and saw no oil leaking. I drove home with the noise as the damage had already been done. I thought for sure I spun a rod bearing. I drained the oil and saw no metal chips in my oil.:thumbup: So then I did a compression test, 3cyl. at 155 to 160psi and 1cyl. at 95psi. Mystery solved. I slapped a valve at high rpm. Now I have a bent valve.:cry:

I am now working on removing my cyl. head. I also bought a used 80k mile motor from a local junk yard for 350$. I am going to put the head on my car, so I can get back on the road for now.

Then I am going to order pistons and rods for the short block soon so I can start on a higher boost motor. Goal 275-300hp:burnrubber:

[fnkngrv]

for some reason they don't like 25+ psi either.

[pimp my yaris]

? Who is making performance valve springs besides Ferrea. 1000$ for valves and spring is a little stiff. And stock seem a little weak for my extended high RPM abuse.

[cali yaris]

I've been running stock valves for quite a while with pretty tough track days included. We did put stiffer springs on them so I could rev to 7300.

I'll check our sources and see if anyone else is making valves. You want stock or over-size?

[Bluevitz-rs]

? Who is making performance valve springs besides Ferrea. 1000$ for valves and spring is a little stiff. And stock seem a little weak for my extended high RPM abuse.

There's Ferrea valves for sale in the FS section... have a looksee

[pimp my yaris]

Im just looking for valve springs. What Brand are U running Garm. And do you sell them?

[cali yaris]

bluevitz, those oversized valves would be a substantial project on the head, I'm sure you know that; unless someone can do machining and such themselves.

I don't know what springs we have in my car, but Ferrea is making us an upgraded valve spring kit that supposedly would be ready by now. You know how that goes. :frown:

I will follow up with them on Monday.

[Blown_xa]

From assembling a few different Toyota motors, I can tell you that the Scion tC motor has the same dimension valve springs. So I've thought about just purchasing upgraded springs ( advertised for the tC) and using those.

I guess I have lucked out, using stock head and my limiter is set to 7300rpm. I've even slammed it in the wrong gear a few times and the rpm shot well past what the tach shows (8000 rpm). I'm pretty sure it was about 9000 rpm once when I was at the dragstrip and put it in second instead of 4th. I think the only reason I didnt get valve contact was because maybe the valves cleared the lower compression pistons even with float. I did hear a noise afterwards which scared me for a few minutes, until I figured out that my power steering belt flipped upside down! Lol

[Viperoni]

I did hear a noise afterwards which scared me for a few minutes, until I figured out that my power steering belt flipped upside down! Lol

You had this happen to you too? When it happened to me, I couldn't believe it.

[Blown_xa]

You had this happen to you too? When it happened to me, I couldn't believe it.

Yea, I don't even understand the physics behind how that can even occur.

[pimp my yaris]

Got some real work done today. I had to stop I did not have a 8mm by-hexagon socket to remove my head bolts. Ordered one today.

[pimp my yaris]

more pics

[cali yaris]

mmmm, a build thread... thank you. :bow:

[Viperoni]

Yea, I don't even understand the physics behind how that can even occur.

Me neither.
When I saw the belt grooves staring at me, I had to do a double take. I KNOW I put the belt on properly because I saw the "Goodyear gatorback" logo looking at me lol.



FWIW, My motor's also seens over 8k from a couple of mis-shifts, still works good :)

[Bluevitz-rs]

My motor saw about 8600 once from a miss shift from redline in 3rd back to 2nd passing two gravel trucks. 3 valves did not survive and it sounded like someone threw gravel IN the motor. Scared the shit outa me. But the funny thing was it never set a code and had no choose but to continue driving it for the next 250km on my trip LOL.

[suckerface]

Slightly off topic, but where in Chicago are you Pimp? I'd love to come check out your work and offer any assistance on the weekends if you need it, and with being in Milwaukee, it's only a 2-3 hour drive. I want to do a turbo build myself eventually, but want to see things first hand to get a better understanding of what all is involved.

[Parmas]

From assembling a few different Toyota motors, I can tell you that the Scion tC motor has the same dimension valve springs. So I've thought about just purchasing upgraded springs ( advertised for the tC) and using those.

I guess I have lucked out, using stock head and my limiter is set to 7300rpm. I've even slammed it in the wrong gear a few times and the rpm shot well past what the tach shows (8000 rpm). I'm pretty sure it was about 9000 rpm once when I was at the dragstrip and put it in second instead of 4th. I think the only reason I didnt get valve contact was because maybe the valves cleared the lower compression pistons even with float. I did hear a noise afterwards which scared me for a few minutes, until I figured out that my power steering belt flipped upside down! Lol

What compression were you running? Wow 9000rpm on stock head is a very nice dream hey !:biggrin:

[Blown_xa]

What compression were you running? Wow 9000rpm on stock head is a very nice dream hey !:biggrin:

8.5:1 Is the compression ratio.
I was at 7300rpm in 3rd and put it in 2nd. Car sounded like a sports bike. I just did the math, there is a 31% difference in rpm drop between 2nd and 3rd gear ( xA trans). So 9563rpm is what it hit considering I shifted from 7300rpm.
This happened about a year ago.

[pimp my yaris]

Slightly off topic, but where in Chicago are you Pimp? I'd love to come check out your work and offer any assistance on the weekends if you need it, and with being in Milwaukee, it's only a 2-3 hour drive. I want to do a turbo build myself eventually, but want to see things first hand to get a better understanding of what all is involved.

Thats funny. I have relatives in Greenfield and I was just there for christmas with my car. I bought my car in Milwaukee at Heiser Toyota during the cash 4 clunkers rush.
I live in Lake in the Hills. It is in the extreme north and west end of the Chicago burbs. You are welcome to check it out when I get her back together again.

[pimp my yaris]

Well I got the head off today and it looks good. I dont see any bent valves or impact marks on pistons. I even put it upside down and fill the head chambers with water. None leaked out. So its still likely I spun a rod bearing. I guess I will be pulling the rest of the motor this weekend. I cant believe there was no metal chips in the oil with all that noise.

[fnkngrv]

might as well consider buying another motor and keep your top end for a rainy day if that is the case...how many miles is on your motor again? I take it you are going to pull your bottom end apart and go from there? At least you didn't have your block turn into swiss cheese like mine.

[pimp my yaris]

I am going to pull the bottom end on sunday and check it out. I will most likely order crower rods and je pistons and rings from this Race engineering web sight. https://www.raceeng.com/c-375-1nzfe.aspx

I am also thinking of buying a new clutch from micro image.

[cali yaris]

^ They list CP pistons. I have those and Pauter rods on the shelf. I can probably beat their prices if you want JE and Crower instead.

[pimp my yaris]

Ok, engine is built in the car and running with cp pistons and Pauter rods for those who didnt see the build thread. I am working on a return line now. I plan to drill a hole in the top of mystock rail and tap the hole. I then will screw in a -4an fitting and run that line to a boost controled fuel regulator and then back to the pump top with another hole and fitting. I was thinking of using a larger -6an line but that would be even larger then the stock feed line coming from the pump. I will also remove the stock filter and regulator and attach the feed line directly to the pump. I will attach a in line filter somewhere on the bottom of the car.
Has anyone tried this or something similar yet? Thoughts? :iono:
Garm or blown xa if you see this can you tell me what size your return line is?

[fnkngrv]

Wish I had my data for you Brian, but with the hiccups I am dealing with I haven't been able to get to the dyno for real world evidence to upgrade mine. It will happen before fall though.

[cali yaris]

^ I'll check this morning.

[pimp my yaris]

1200mi on the rebuilt motor. It is running great. I did a compression test yesterday after I had some tuning issues on a long road trip. All cyl. were 120-123 psi. Also no oil burning at all.

I have my fuel map perfectly tuned while in the boost. Unfortunatly my AFR's vary a lot during normal out of boost driving. Depending on engine temps. and under hood temps. Its getting pretty hot under there in 90+ degree temps.

I am thinking of hooking up my factory o2 sensor to see if this helps. I am tired of dragging my lap top around on every long trip.

[pimp my yaris]

The new fuel rail I got from MI is awsome. I will post pictures later.

[Yoda]

didn't know it was in stock. Is it the proto type?

[pimp my yaris]

didn't know it was in stock. Is it the proto type?

It is the final design. He sent me one early. The rest are going out for polishing. I was in a big hurry. I havent mounted it yet, I am still working on getting all the needed fittings. Mabe this week end I get some some real work done. :biggrin:

[cali yaris]

Should have finished and polished production stock early next week.

[fnkngrv]

^ Jog memory Garm, where are the inlet and outlet ports in regards to orientation drivers/passengers side? :w00t:

[fnkngrv]

I am going in for my new tune on the 9th. I will shoot video to show fuel pressure ration under boost to add to my article on fuel system upgrading.

[Yoda]

Not too bad put me down for one. Post or pm me cost so I can put it aside plz.

[cali yaris]

$149.95 shipped, going up into the store today. :thumbsup:

As for direction, my regulator and gauge are on the driver side, I thought that was the inlet because of that. I will confirm with Art, I suppose it could be plumbed the other way?

[ChinGy]

Hi, I'm in the process of fitting a turbo to my Yaris 1NZ-FE. Just wondering if you could help. Which one is the oil pressure switch, the one that sits behind the intake manifold or the one that's slightly below it?

Cali Yaris, does the fuel rail require a piece of the valve cover to be chopped off like the perrin and OBX?

[fnkngrv]

I will confirm with Art, I suppose it could be plumbed the other way?

Cool...I could be confused, but I thought that Art had said that was the case.

[cali yaris]

Cali Yaris, does the fuel rail require a piece of the valve cover to be chopped off like the perrin and OBX?

We don't think so. My car looks intact and the rail fits nicely. I'll take some pictures today to show more detail of it installed.

[cali yaris]

Here are a few shots of my set up, I think the "tabs" on the valve cover are intact.

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/GoldenEagle/fuelrail1.jpg

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/GoldenEagle/fuelrail2.jpg

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/GoldenEagle/fuelrail3.jpg

[Yoda]

$149.95 shipped, going up into the store today. :thumbsup:

As for direction, my regulator and gauge are on the driver side, I thought that was the inlet because of that. I will confirm with Art, I suppose it could be plumbed the other way?

Ordered:biggrin:

[Bluevitz-rs]

[QUOTE=cali yaris;654030]Here are a few shots of my set up, I think the "tabs" on the valve cover are intact.

No, there was a tab on the transmission side of the cover that's been removed. But it's nothing a hacksaw can't care of in short order.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Here are a few shots of my set up, I think the "tabs" on the valve cover are intact.


No, there was a tab on the transmission side of the cover that's been removed. But it's nothing a hacksaw can't care of in short order.

[cali yaris]

Someone please post some decent pics of their stock valve cover.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Found one on eBay.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDgwWDY0MA==/$(KGrHqNHJF!E88evolLyBPSC8Vy51!~~60_1.JPG?set_id=8 800005007

[packetrace]

Here are a few shots of my set up, I think the "tabs" on the valve cover are intact.

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/GoldenEagle/fuelrail1.jpg

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/GoldenEagle/fuelrail2.jpg

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/GoldenEagle/fuelrail3.jpg

Love the red strut bar color matched with valve cover :):biggrin:

[cali yaris]

blue-vitz, it doesn't look like the fuel rail would cause a problem with the driver side "tab'. My regulator doesn't have to be positioned there, which would be in the way. Maybe it's because of the intake mani instead?

I guess we'll know when pimp does his install.

@ packet -- yeah things have to match in my world or I can't sleep. Tanabe is supposed to give me a new sticker for the powdercoated strut brace.

[Yoda]

i think pimp had cut his off so he could upgrade his injectors easier.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=575255&postcount=406

[packetrace]

Garm

The black thing comin out of the regulator is for te gauge ?

What is the regulator brand ?

[cali yaris]

The two inlet ports are tapped with a 9/16-18 thread. The fuel pressure gauge port is tapped with a 1/8-27 NPT.

The outlet port is located at the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator. It has a 9/16”-18 thread.

Connect the vacuum hose to the top of the fuel pressure regulator. (Hose size is a 3/16” or 5mm)

I use the AEM regulator, in stock (black).

Here is AEM's page and PDF for it:
http://www.aemelectronics.com/universal-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator-338

http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images/Products/Installation%20Instructions%2025-302.pdf

[packetrace]

I use the AEM regulator, in stock (black).

Here is AEM's page and PDF for it:
http://www.aemelectronics.com/universal-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator-338

http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images/Products/Installation%20Instructions%2025-302.pdf

Definetely going to pick up one...VERY SOON....at the same time fuel rail....and 2 gauge :)

[packetrace]

Where is the outlet of the rail going ? and where is the little black thing that comes out of the regulator going ?

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/GoldenEagle/fuelrail3.jpg

[Jeff@MicroImage]

Where is the outlet of the rail going ? and where is the little black thing that comes out of the regulator going ?

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/GoldenEagle/fuelrail3.jpg

Fuel is being returned to the tank using the original fuel feed line (reverse direction). It's recommended to run the fuel return line when turbo, not needed on a N/A car an you can simply plug the unused end of the fuel rail.

Black hose is going to manifold vacuum/boost, FPR is rising rate based on boost, the more boost it sees the higher fuel pressure gets.

[cali yaris]

The bottom of the regulator is the return line/outlet, the left is the feed from the rail, and to the right is the gauge.