Want to build costom turbo kit. Need advice from boosted guys! [Archive] - Toyota Yaris Forums

pimp my yaris

07-07-2010, 12:08 PM

I want to build a costom turbo setup using mostly E-bay parts. I am thinking t25/28 turbo. I have found exhaust manafold/turbo, intercooler and piping,oil and water lines if needed. Also a air intake and filter to mount the mass air sensor. I am sure I will need to buy at least 1 more intercooler piping kit and a blow off valve. And I found a downpipe witch will need to be costomized from a nissan silvia. Or I will need a complete costom downpipe.

My questions are what piggy back system should I use to control injector pulse? Will I need bigger injectors right away? I am only looking for 150-170whp. Also should oil source for turbo be tapped from oil pressure sensor or do I need to buy adapter to tap near the filter? I am also sure a new clutch will be in my future shortly after install. I am thinking center force dual friction.
Also can I tune a piggy back system with a lap top and a wide band o2s or do you need some specialized training to complete this. I am a ase master tech for about 12 years, but I have never done tuning. Its just so dame expensive around Chicago. Very few places to go.:iono:

pimp my yaris

07-07-2010, 12:12 PM

Also 1 more question. Has anyone used this turbo manafold set up? I want to know if it interfers with A/C lines? I want to retain my A/C.

cali yaris

07-07-2010, 03:33 PM

I think you'll need a tuner, but maybe not. Piggybacks are problematic with the Yaris, but at least one member has an AEM FIC working properly. I personally don't mind doing some street tuning, but I insist on at least one dyno session to get it just right and make sure it's a reliable and thorough tune.

Corolla injectors will serve you for this project. What is the internal gate set for in psi?

T25 is a nice small turbo for us, nimble and quick to spool.

What brands are the parts? Especially the turbo, it's the heart of your system. How is the customer service if a part fails?

My turbo mani is $249 shipped.

PETERPOOP

07-07-2010, 03:36 PM

My tune with the greddy emanage ultimate is still doing ok.

pimp my yaris

07-07-2010, 06:45 PM

Internal wastegate for the turbo in the picture is set to 7psi. No word on the brand of turbo. compressor housing is .80AR, turbine side is .86AR. Cast iron manafold also includes 35/38mm wastegate flange for external wastegate. I,m sure costomer service is shitty. Its a non ball bearing turbo. But 450$ shipped for manafold, turbo, oil line and gaskets sounds cheap even if the turbo is not top quality. I figure if it blows I would upgrade to a better ball bearing turbo later.

cali yaris

07-07-2010, 06:52 PM

if it blows you may be upgrading more than the turbo - but it's your risk to take. As long as it's not your daily driver, go for it.

If you're getting a turbo with an internal gate, why would you get a manifold with a wastegate flange?

and "compressor housing is .80AR, turbine side is .86AR" is way too large. You'll have so much lag with that. For comparison, the Garrett GT2554R is .64 turbine side.

pimp my yaris

07-07-2010, 07:15 PM

Has anyone tuned using the Apexi Afc-neo? Just curious how it worked out. It looks like a bargain price. Claims to alter mass air flow sensor readings to change injector pulse width.

pimp my yaris

07-07-2010, 07:22 PM

Also have you guys retarded timing when in the boost. If so how much ie: 1degree/1pd boost. I am asking because the Apexi AFC-neo I mentioned previously has no provision for adjusting timing. Could be very important. Detonation bad

cali yaris

07-08-2010, 01:13 AM

A little timing is taken out in my tune, not a whole lot.

You didn't attend to any of the comments/questions in post 6.

pimp my yaris

07-08-2010, 01:20 AM

Cali yaris I saw the turbo manafold your selling. Looks like very good quality. I see it mounts the turbo under the manafold. While this Ebay set up mounts turbo above the manafold. I think your setup may be better for clearance with the A/C lines. Have you had any feedback about that manafold, any clearance problems? I looked into that turbo you mentioned, but for right know thats a little out of my price range. It was selling for 900-1000$

cali yaris

07-08-2010, 02:01 AM

I only have my own feedback about the manifold. I'm throwing 24 psi at it and getting nice power. No cracks or issues of any kind. Fitment is great, no clearance issues with any other systems.

how about this one:
If you're getting a turbo with an internal gate, why would you get a manifold with a wastegate flange?

pimp my yaris

07-08-2010, 02:18 AM

The E-bay ad mentioned a wastegate flange. But none can be seen in either picture of the manafold. Anyway I dont like mounting the turbo above the manafold next to the cyl. head. I think it will cause clearance problems with a/c lines and will be to hot and close to ECM. I think I will be purchasing your manafold sometime this month. You sold me. Funds are limited. I will be starting with manafold and turbo then I can start planing routing for intercooler pipes. Gotta get that mental picture and piece it together you know!

pimp my yaris

07-08-2010, 02:20 AM

To bad you are not selling a downpipe for a t25 mounted on your manafold. That would be sweet

pimp my yaris

07-08-2010, 02:24 AM

I forgot to ask. What turbo is this manafold your selling designed to fit? Cali

pimp my yaris

07-08-2010, 03:47 AM

Just doing some more turbo comparisions. Found T3 w/internal wastegate and v/band exit. .5" a/r compressor and .63" a/r turbine. Possibly the smaller size could be more yaris friendly. V/band exit could make downpipe easier to fabricate.

Sabretooth

07-08-2010, 05:56 AM

T3 will be a bit too large, t25 will be fine and will allow you plenty of breathing room between actual turbo output and its maximum output.

Garms manifold should be for a t25 turbo, if I am wrong he will chime in to do so.

Parmas

07-08-2010, 12:34 PM

We all know that good quality and efficient parts are expensive but if you decide to go for the cheap parts (like that turbo) you will absolutely scrap what you bought and eventually going for the expensive ones.

I don't know about that intake filter but I am about sure you will have to make it custom. *Remember that now the intake is the turbo and not the throttle body!

A T25 0.64 turbine is the best turbo you can get for balanced power/torque and spooling time. Keep in mind that there are turbos that feature watercooling which is a plus but not a must.

RE: Oil turbo feed, you have two choices :

1. Tap the block
2. Install a sandwich adapter

Mine is tapped at the front and rear probably similar to Garm setup but that is your choice.

Don't buy intercooler piping unless the turbo setup (turbo+ Ex manifold + intercooler) is of the same manufacturer. If you go with Garm's manifold you need custom piping to match turbo.

Clutch is an option upgrade but that depends how much you love your throttle pedal. If so clutchmasters are the most recommended brand.

RE: Piggy back, choose carefully and buy only proven ones unless you don't want to waste cash trying indefinetely to tune it right.

cali yaris

07-08-2010, 01:37 PM

^ good points -- Parmas has been working on his built set up for a while now, and he's learned so much along the way.

my mani has a T25 flange.

pimp my yaris

07-09-2010, 05:22 AM

Thanks for the advise guys. I will post more as it moves along.

pimp my yaris

07-10-2010, 11:41 AM

OK yesterday I ordered Garms Turbo manafold off Micro Image and also a GT25 turbo from E-bay. I will see how it mounts up then I will start planing costom intercooler piping and downpipe routing. Also will need to measure for oil feed and return line. And what I will need to tap pan for retun line. Any sugestions for return line tap would be helpful.:iono:

Turbo specs. I think this turbo should spool quickly and be good for low boost application

TURBO SPEC:

gt25 internal wastegate turbo charger

Intake :2.5 inch
Outlet: 2 inch
Compressor trim: .42 ar
Compressor Wheel diameter: 60.05 /42.12
Turbine wheel diameter : 46.46 /53.20
Exhaust trim: .49ar
Turbine flange type: t25 flange
Downpipe flange type : 5 bolt type (will not fit sr20 down pipe bolt pattern)
Cooling type: oil and water cool
Actuator : set at 8psi
Horsepower rating: 250-300hp+
(wet float bearing)

1 YEAR WARRANTY IF INSTALLED BY PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC ( ASE CERTIFIED)

Turbo was $239.99 shipped to my door

cali yaris

07-10-2010, 01:46 PM

You're on the right track! :clap:

I think I would have gone 6 psi but this is a great experiment, and finally someone is ACTUALLY DOING IT. :bow:

Mani went out promptly yesterday.

Our oil "pan" is really just a cover. We tapped the front of the block above that for my return line.

Parmas

07-10-2010, 02:42 PM

Is the engine 1.5L or 1.3L? Just to confirm as it was never mentioned here

I think the actuator set to 8psi is not good for stock internals. Make sure you buy a boost controller and set it to the most minimum levels... you don't want your turbo to boost a spike while you rev it to 6Krpm on first gear and end up on 10 or even 12psi boost. At that level of boost (10-12psi) I am confident your internals won't hold long so make sure you install a controller.

Also since you are installing additional oil lines make sure you install an oil pressure (or also oil temprature) to monitor your oil status. Before you drive happy and confident you need to check especially oil pressure during idle gradually till 5Krpm on neutral. If all is fine you can burn some tires after a good tune!

An Air to Fuel Ratio (AFR) is an option to check how your mixture is doing off and on boost. This gauge can prevent you before you destroy your engine especially if you run lean on-boost

Cheers and Good luck

PETERPOOP

07-10-2010, 03:15 PM

finally someone is ACTUALLY DOING IT. :bow:

I was just going to say, "Wow this guy sure moves fast." The only guy to ask the same ol` turbo questions, but then actually DOES IT! lol. Way to go bro! :thumbsup:

cali yaris

07-10-2010, 04:29 PM

1. definitely a couple of gauges will be needed.
2. strongly recommend an extra O2 bung in your downpipe. you'll be glad it's there someday, and it's a pain to take out and add later.
3. re: parmas comment -- you can't have less than the spring pressure, so if the spring is 8psi, that's the minimum you can run. A boost controller is a great idea to prevent the spikes/surges he is warning about.

Parmas

07-10-2010, 04:59 PM

3. re: parmas comment -- you can't have less than the spring pressure, so if the spring is 8psi, that's the minimum you can run. A boost controller is a great idea to prevent the spikes/surges he is warning about.

Normally a boost controller control boost levels and spring pressure. If we consider the AEM TRU boost it has a boost level percentage setting of 10% as minimum and a spring pressure setting of 1 minimum.

This is an example.... On my setup (in which the actuator is set to 9psi) the AEM needs to be set to boost level of 10% and spring pressure setting of 5 to get good response. Since I had mixture problems I decided to use stock plugs and I needed to have the engine running at the lowest boost possible. So I adjusted the spring pressure to 1 and boost became laggy and it need much more revs to produce that 9psi and I worked fine liked that since I was only hitting 4psi during street driving.

cali yaris

07-10-2010, 05:06 PM

Normally a boost controller control boost levels and spring pressure.

No, it cannot control spring pressure. A spring has a fixed resistance. The boost controller keeps the wastegate closed at or above the spring pressure, and the spring is what allows it to open. So the spring pressure is the minimum boost.

I'll just leave it with my disagreement on this point, the thread is for the OP's turbo build.

scioncrew

07-10-2010, 07:10 PM

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35080&stc=1&d=1278799753

pimp my yaris

07-10-2010, 07:19 PM

I have to agree with you, boost controller can not override spring pressure in actuator as it is sealed and completely mechanical. I think it is a little to much boost to start with. I think I will rig up I spring to work against the actuator to help it open sooner until I can get it to a local tuner. I know it may sound ghetto, but its better then the cost of a new motor. At least until its properly tuned. But I still have a lot of work to do. And right now Im out of flow until my next pay day. Also its a 1.5L motor. I do want to install a wide band o2s and air/fuel ratio guage and boost guage on inside window pillar. I think I will take many pictures and post as this rolls along.

pimp my yaris

07-10-2010, 07:21 PM

Thanks for that scioncrew. I was not aware of that adjuster.

pimp my yaris

07-10-2010, 07:25 PM

Does anyone run stock injectors with boost? I didnt think the blitz supercharger came with injectors. I heard you should not excede 80% duty cycle with any injector while tuning or it becomes unreliable and may fail.

cali yaris

07-10-2010, 10:17 PM

the blitz s/c does not come with injectors. If you want to experiment, try to tune with stock, then move up if they can't handle it. Or move up and know you've got enough to start with.

cali yaris

07-10-2010, 10:18 PM

I think I will take many pictures and post as this rolls along.

You better! If you don't, it didn't happen. :biggrin:

Focus_Sh1ft

07-10-2010, 10:23 PM

OK yesterday I ordered a GT25 turbo from E-bay.

Is this one of those from the sr20det setup? I was eyeing this up after having it pointed out... Just been wondering on its quality.

Does anyone run stock injectors with boost? I didnt think the blitz supercharger came with injectors. I heard you should not excede 80% duty cycle with any injector while tuning or it becomes unreliable and may fail.

Check out cdydjded's profile. He has an A/F graph of stock injectors and 1ZZ injectors.

Also, not to threadjack, but since it was touched on here... Garm, I'm wondering if you could possibly post a picture of your oil tap location. I've been wondering how you pulled this off for awhile lol.

cali yaris

07-11-2010, 02:14 AM

sure thing, next time i'm near the car, which is Monday

pimp my yaris

07-11-2010, 08:18 AM

The turbo on the sr20det is usually a gt25g. Its larger, has a a/r 80 compressor. Nice pic and info on wikipedia. The last turbo ride I had was a Suby wrx. It put down 300 on a axel dyno. My local tuner must have done 100 runs into the night. Their neighbors were sure pissed off. They have since changed locations. I ran a
larger tubo and injectors. No piggy back, they reflashed the stock ECU and also turned off my cel. due to missing cat. converter. He also included a
second low boost map that could be turned on using the defroster switch. Nice if U let someone barrow your car. Its nice when the aftermarket loves your car.

cali yaris

07-11-2010, 02:11 PM

100 pulls, ouch.

Focus_Sh1ft

07-11-2010, 02:46 PM

sure thing, next time i'm near the car, which is Monday

As a token of my appreciation, I believe it's time for me to order that Eurolight kit I've been eyeing up. :thumbup:

cali yaris

07-11-2010, 10:50 PM

haha, and so you did. Now I HAVE to take that picture :smile:

pimp my yaris

07-12-2010, 09:25 PM

Hey Garm this manafold from Turbo-kits.com looks a lot like yours. Do you guys use same supplier? I need that downpipe from their kit. Looks like it would work good with my setup.

pimp my yaris

07-12-2010, 09:30 PM

looks like his mani has a EGT bung

cali yaris

07-12-2010, 11:14 PM

different supplier, their manifold is fine. That downpipe did NOT fit my car, however (it was modeled on an xB). I also had a perfectly horrible customer experience with them trying to get the parts I did order (took four months to get something that was supposedly "in stock").

scioncrew

07-13-2010, 12:43 AM

didn't fit the XB either! I had to modify mine to fit :thumbdown: i quess that what i get for being lazzy and not make it my self.

pimp my yaris

07-13-2010, 12:45 AM

Wow that service blows. Are U going to sell the downpipe U had fabricated or is it a one shot piece?

pimp my yaris

07-17-2010, 11:24 PM

Got my Turbo and manafold yesterday. Wed, I will mount up and check for clearance and measure for oil lines. Also I talked to a local tuner and he sugested Emanage ultimate piggy back. Also found a place that will fabricate a costome plug and play harness for the emanage ultimate, but its 500$. If anyone is intrested its called Boomslang Fabrication. It was recomended by the tech guy at Greddy.:drool:

scioncrew

07-18-2010, 01:24 AM

looking good! good luck man

scioncrew

07-18-2010, 01:30 AM

Wow that service blows. Are U going to sell the downpipe U had fabricated or is it a one shot piece?

love to help but i have an XB. i need a car to do it.

cali yaris

07-18-2010, 03:50 AM

No one knows if the boomslang is compatible with the USDM ECU. It seems like it should be, but we won't know until someone tries it (hint hint)

Bluevitz-rs

07-18-2010, 09:31 AM

... the boomslang ...

:confused:

cali yaris

07-18-2010, 12:12 PM

Boomslang (company name) makes a plug 'n play wiring harness for the AEM FIC and the Yaris.

Nexus1155

07-18-2010, 01:41 PM

Change the setup you have for the wastegate and boost pickup lines to a MBC setup, this way it will boost to the psi you want and you will get no wastegate issues.

Also, thats a chinese turbo, prime the crap out of it with the fuel fuse removed so it will deliver oil to it before you start up the car. I have them on my car and just started it up this week.

pimp my yaris

07-19-2010, 12:24 AM

Well I couldn't wait till wed. Today I mounted it up and checked for clearance. It fits but its very close. The wastegate acuator bracket is about 1/4 inch away from the firewall. I may need to pound it back just a touch. But the engine torque should pull the engine down and away when on the gas. I also needed to reclock the compressor housing so the discharge was not so close to the engine block. Then I needed to drill and tap a small hole in the compressor housing for the wastegate actuator. Its now adjusted so the discharge is aimed straight down for easy attachment of intercooler pipe. Took some pics to. Now I need mo money:frown: Next update in 2-3 weeks.

Nexus1155

07-19-2010, 02:22 AM

Then I needed to drill and tap a small hole in the compressor housing for the wastegate actuator

Why? Thats what that 90* brass elbow is for that the wastegate actuator was connected to in the first place, is a boost pickup line.

Most of them OEM have them on the housing, but aftermarket chinese units have them on the compressor outlet.... Serves the same purpose.

Engine flexes every which way, not only forwards. and especially when you hit rev limiter, it will shake like a mother. Make sure there is enough room so nothing gets crushed. 1/4" is pretty damn close. Read and take in my suggestions in the last post i made before yours too, I am sure everyone else will concur as well.

pimp my yaris

07-19-2010, 10:02 AM

Nexus1155 Reclocking the turbo involves changing the direction of the air discharge on the compressor housing. when the turbo was mounted the discharge was less then an inch from the engine block. In the pictures U can see now it is straight down and aimed between the axel and subframe. The hole needed to be drilled because the actuator can not be moved. It must be across from the wastgate. Their were some extra holes drilled in the compresser housing to reclock but not enough. You can see extra holes in the picture. You can also see the mark where I drilled the additional hole. If you look at pics of turbo U can see discharge is about 90 degrees different. As far as the clearance goes I said I may need to bend firewall back slighltly if it makes contact. If you use external wastegate there would be plenty of clearance but the downpipe would be more complicated.

Nexus1155

07-19-2010, 11:29 AM

I see what you mean from those pics, but you can always go to the auto store and get a longer hose and reroute the line, or tap in a MBC up to your engine compartment so you do not get wastegate flutter.

Anyways, the easiest solution is the one not involving fabrication work.....but I am glad to see youre getting things mocked up already.

If you are worry about the heat, you can always get some heat resistant tube wrap, i used them on my wastegate lines as well from being so close to the manifold, but the line can usually handle anything thats not touchign manifold or turbo hot side

pimp my yaris

07-19-2010, 04:37 PM

Ya I may try a mbc later. Its already a 8psi actuator. Thats gonna be pushing it for a stock motor. I think I will use some header wrap for the down pipe. And mabe another piece of sheet metal between the turbo and fire wall. The only thing close to the turbo is the brake line that runs to the passenger side front wheel.

pimp my yaris

08-08-2010, 11:18 AM

Update: I ordered a front mount intercooler and 2.25" piping kit and also an additional piping kit as well and a adjustable bov that can be piped to recirculate. And a oil feed line with t fitting to tap into pressure sensor. This size should work well. My turbo,T/B and air box should fit 2.25" silicone connectors. I am going to try to use the stock air box and mass air. It may cause problems with fitting intercooler piping later though. I also have a question guys> Where are you tapping into to get your coolant for the water lines on the turbo?? I am thinking heater core lines would be the most obvious choice. But Im not positive.
If anyone is intrested, so far I spent 876.99$ including shipping

Yoda

08-08-2010, 12:06 PM

wow you dont waist much time do you. looks nice its coming together

cali yaris

08-08-2010, 01:12 PM

heater core lines will work fine. I have to check mine, I thing we used one in a different place that was available off the block.

cdydjded

08-08-2010, 02:00 PM

cali yaris

08-08-2010, 02:21 PM

If the turbo has water line inlets/outlets, use them! -- I love not needing a turbo timer or to have to sit there for 30 seconds idling before I jump out of the car.

So there you go, two opinions to consider. :laugh:

Nexus1155

08-08-2010, 02:34 PM

IMO you do not have to flow coolant through the turbo.

Malarky!, the shaft of the turbo is still spinning like 1,000,000 mph like a speeding bullet you want to keep it cooled down. If the turbo has useable ports for water cooling, use them as alot of the heat is transfered into the coolant and pulls it away.

Focus_Sh1ft

08-08-2010, 05:41 PM

Race you to be the first to finish their build. :thumbup:

cali yaris

08-08-2010, 08:30 PM

^ I win.

cdydjded

08-09-2010, 01:55 PM

pimp: I would suggest to use the coolant lines that run through the throttle body if you are going to run coolant lines through the turbo

Yoda

08-09-2010, 02:37 PM

^that might work actually

pimp my yaris

08-09-2010, 05:14 PM

Race you to be the first to finish their build. :thumbup:

Its on! I hope to be runing sometime in october.:burnrubber:

pimp my yaris

08-09-2010, 05:31 PM

2.25" is correct on the I/C pipe size. You will not be able to use the stock air box, it wont be able to be pressurized. IMO you do not have to flow coolant through the turbo.

I am planing on putting the mass air before the turbo. That way I can hopefully use stock air box and cut down on costs.

pimp my yaris

08-09-2010, 05:33 PM

pimp: I would suggest to use the coolant lines that run through the throttle body if you are going to run coolant lines through the turbo

Thanks for the idea. I think that will be much easier then the heater lines. I dont want to restrict those lines, it gets to dam cold here in winter!

pimp my yaris

08-09-2010, 08:21 PM

Well I just picked up some used 1ZZ injectors that were for sale on E-bay. If anyone was thinking about picking them up, TO LATE I got um! New total 939.49

Dezod

08-09-2010, 11:04 PM

I liked the GT2252 on this motor. Throttle response was there and it made for a nice power band.

Dezod

08-09-2010, 11:05 PM

I also might have gone with a 2" IC pipe on this engine with low boost and 2.25" for anything over say a bar of boost.

cdydjded

08-10-2010, 05:49 PM

Were you planning to use the AEM FIC?

pimp my yaris

08-10-2010, 07:13 PM

Were you planning to use the AEM FIC?

Yes, also gonna pick up a AEM wideband 02

cdydjded

08-10-2010, 08:13 PM

Yes, also gonna pick up a AEM wideband 02

Good deal. Just to let you know, mount the AEM FIC in the car not in the engine bay. Since it has a built in map sensor that works off of absolute pressure the temp in the engine bay will affect it drastically....

Parmas

08-11-2010, 08:08 AM

Well I just picked up some used 1ZZ injectors that were for sale on E-bay. If anyone was thinking about picking them up, TO LATE I got um! New total 939.49

Bad for you I have a set of these for sale for much less :biggrin:

The Aem is a good choice but an expensive one although you would be happy with it.

I think that intercooler is good for now but if you are thinking of more boost later on you will regret you didn't bought one better.

Don't rush out and do think before you act. Getting the right parts now is an investment for the future and you would not regret the time spent for research!

Good luck!

pimp my yaris

08-11-2010, 10:00 AM

Bad for you I have a set of these for sale for much less :biggrin:

The Aem is a good choice but an expensive one although you would be happy with it.

I think that intercooler is good for now but if you are thinking of more boost later on you will regret you didn't bought one better.

Don't rush out and do think before you act. Getting the right parts now is an investment for the future and you would not regret the time spent for research!

Good luck!

I bought used injectors off ebay for 62.00$ with shipping. 939$ is total for eveything I spent so far including Turbo, manafold, intercooler, two piping kits, oil&coolant lines. Still need to buy AEM fic, AEM widebend, stai less pipe for downpipe and exhaust output flange for gt25 turbo. O ya I need more Flow$. Any one got donations:iono:

Nexus1155

08-11-2010, 10:58 AM

The AEM UEGO is a hunk of crap but im sure it will integrate well with the AEM FIC which is always a plus. Parmas, I doubt he will build his car to handle extreme boost, that FMIC will do him good for any boost he needs to push on that turbo.

Oversizing the intercooler and piping for it, and for exhaust in the car is a common mistake alot of people make.

cdydjded

08-11-2010, 12:31 PM

The AEM UEGO is a hunk of crap

Why? :iono:

Nexus1155

08-11-2010, 05:30 PM

Just personal opinion. I've installed Zeitronix, AEM, Innovate LC1 and the Innovate LM-1 is my favorite so far.

Pic doesnt want to load up about the Wideband shootout so just click link i guess!

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2007/06/WidebandShootout/jspw3_pop.htm?images/chart_lg.jpg
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2007/06/WidebandShootout/jspw3_pop.htm?images/chart_lg.jpg

cali yaris

08-11-2010, 06:44 PM

There is no LM-1 on the Innovate website, unless i just missed it. Can you point us at the product please?

Nexus1155

08-11-2010, 06:47 PM

They just recently updated it to the LM-2

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm2.php

Same thing pretty much, just has a little more functionality to it.

pimp my yaris

08-13-2010, 11:29 PM

Good day today. I got my intercooler and pipe kits,bov,oil feed and water line kit. Also recieved 1zz injectors from a used 99 corolla. Took some pics as I am just starting to mount intercooler. Looks like I may need to ditch my fog lights as they might interfere with piping.:cry:

Nexus1155

08-13-2010, 11:42 PM

Hope you are going to get some angle brackets to secure that FMIC to the bumper support..... jus sayin!

Good progress so far though!!!

pimp my yaris

08-14-2010, 08:57 PM

Got some more work done today.

pimp my yaris

08-14-2010, 09:00 PM

With bumper cover

Focus_Sh1ft

08-14-2010, 09:57 PM

So you pretty much have the piping done, I'm assuming you're doing the manifold and turbo last-ish? Funny, because I was going to start from the manifold and work my way through.

Either way, your setup is coming along nicely. :thumbsup:

ALSO, lemme know how the 1ZZ injectors go for you. I'm having a hell of a time with mine currently.

Nexus1155

08-14-2010, 10:32 PM

Whats the issue you are having with the injectors? I know a user shaved part of his head? or something to get them to fit easier? I still never seen the intercooler bolted to anything? Don't just let it free hang....

BTW you are a machine with getting things done, remind me of myself. I go into my shop today and spend 5hrs and i just gotta put my engine back in my car. The more organized the quicker you can go through things!

pimp my yaris

08-15-2010, 10:31 AM

I/C is bolted tight, top and bottom. Bumper bar is some crazy hard steel. Dulled about six drill bits getting through. I even went out and bought the best carbid bit I could find and that bumper steel trashed it after drilling one hole. Very frustrsting, but finished with that!

Nexus1155

08-15-2010, 12:19 PM

nice!, yeah in most instances its easier to drill a pilot hole then use a stepper bit with some type of oil to cut through the steel easier. Or atleast start small and go up gradually in drill bit sizes. I've had to drill 1/2 holes through two inch thick metal with a hand drill because the drill press wasnt powerful enough. I am sure you had the drill kick back at you a few times :P

pimp my yaris

08-16-2010, 04:52 PM

More work today. More pictures. Piping intercooler to turbo. And Turbo intake to air filter/mass air. I think because of space constrants and wanting to keep the intake tract as free flowing as possible. I will not be able to use the stock air box. It just takes up to much space. I cant wait to drive this thing already!!!!:burnrubber:

pimp my yaris

08-16-2010, 05:08 PM

I also thought the turbo wastgate actuator might be rubbing firewall after previous test install. But after removing the heat insulation I have a good 1/2 inch or so of clearance. I will also fabricate a sheet metal heat sheild around turbo exhaust housing. I hope the pics are helpful to those who might be thinking about trying this themselves. So far its been a lot of fun and I am happy the way everything has turned out. This car is very mechanic friendly for the most part.

cali yaris

08-16-2010, 05:13 PM

Are you going to coat the exhaust mani or just leave it?

Focus_Sh1ft

08-16-2010, 09:14 PM

:clap:

Coming along VERY nicely.

pimp my yaris

08-16-2010, 10:08 PM

Are you going to coat the exhaust mani or just leave it?

I was going to leave it be for now. Not worried about corrosion that mani is pretty heavy duty. Im sure it will long outlast the rest of the car.

pimp my yaris

08-17-2010, 07:50 PM

Tryed to attach coolant tubes and oil feed line today. Found the banjo bolt for the oil feed had the wrong thread pitch. So I ordered a new banjo bolt kit and some stainless pipes and stainless flex bellows for downpipe fabrication.

Nexus1155

08-17-2010, 09:53 PM

On crush washers, this is a common mistake, we also have a shaved edged 17/19. I don't know what size your botls are, or if they are easily accesible but crush washers are meant to be crushed essentially. Should be as tight as your wrist at full force... any tighter youll snap the banjo bolt clean in half..... don't ask how i know. :bellyroll:

Being where that turbo is, Garm is right, getting some turbo X paint for the hotside and manifold isnt a bad idea when that thing starts to heat up nice and good.

Parmas

08-18-2010, 02:30 AM

Since you are updating much you seem very keen doing this setup as good as possible so here are my recommendations:

1. Take a breath and remove the manifold again and coat it with DEI HT Silicone coating

2. After the manifold is coated, wrap it with an exhaust wrap to decrease heat as possible (which is equal to some more bhp!) Link http://www.designengineering.com/catalog/design-engineering-inc/exhaust-wraps-accessories

3. The wastegate is too close to the firewall and removing the insulation isn't enough. I recommend that you install a solid rear mount or else upgrade it. You will surely have issues of cracking your manifold or damage your wastegate if you will not make this upgrade trust me.

As an option use some anti-rust on that shafts or else replace them and coat them. Rust tend to decrease torsion forces and turbo tends to increase them which is not proportional

Cheers

pimp my yaris

08-18-2010, 04:32 PM

Yesterday I stoped by my friends machine shop and had him make a exhaust flange for my turbo. It may not look glamorous but it saved me 70$. Now I need to weld a downpipe to this bad boy.

Nexus1155

08-18-2010, 05:20 PM

pimp my yaris

08-19-2010, 01:18 AM

How thick is that metal? I mean, yes, now cut a hole for the wastegate as well.... You can use a larger pipe that matches the size of the outlet. Probably 2.5" then you can use some smaller pipe for the wastegate and meet up with the downpipe 12" down the piping.

And Parmas is right, your actuator arm is too close. If your engine bucks a bit you might end up slamming that against the wall.

That metal is 1/4" thick steel. You cant see in the picture but there is a cutout inside the turbo housing for wastgate gases to reach that hole. In order to complete this downpipe a tight 180 degree pipe is needed at the turbo exit. Then a 90 is needed to direct gas tward the back. This would be a extremely difficult design for a divorced downpipe. It is also not nessesary for the low boost I will be running. If ever I install upgraded pistons and rods for more boost, I will need a new downpipe design. I am sure I will be able to reach my 160-180whp with this design. And I saved money. If you look at Focus Sh1ft's thread on the last page. You will see the zage downpipe is similar design to what I am making. There dyno test netted 180whp. At least thats what they claim on there U tube video. I have also milled some material away from the inside of the plate where the waste gate opens. This will insure it opens completely and does not make contact. Something I doubt zage did with there flange.

I have also pushed my firewall back to gain additional clearance between firewall and W/G actuator. There is still clearance between my firewall and heat/ac plenium if your wondering. I checked.:biggrin:

cali yaris

08-19-2010, 01:53 AM

trans mount would be a good idea to limit engine movement, it's a fairly cheap addition.

Nexus1155

08-19-2010, 02:28 AM

pimp my yaris

08-21-2010, 07:31 PM

Ah ok I was afraid there might have been some interference or the gasses would not flow properly and you might have issues with wastegate gasses. But it seems like you got it under control.

Yeah I saw the Zage downpipe, although pretty nice looking, I don't like when they don't use the full shape of the turbo outlet. I never really liked that outlet to begin with, but alot of turbos come with them. I liked my K16 outlet the most of any turbo. Big circle with with bolt holes in the 4 corners.

Ya I kind of agree. I am not really liking this design, but I am getting tight on cash for now and am very anxious to get her running. I have allready found a different flange with a much better free flow into a 3" pipe with V-clamp. But this will have to do for now. I need to leave something to upgrade later.

pimp my yaris

08-22-2010, 11:39 AM

OK update. I had to buy a few miscellaneous parts to complete oil return line and oil feed line. Some of the parts included in the water and oil line kit did not fit because this is not an original ball bearing garett GT25, its a journal bearing nock off. Also wanted a 90 degree fitting for oil pan to insure return line does not rub on anything and to keep it clean. And also ordered first parts not from E-bay. I needed some stainless U bend pipe and a L bend pipe, plus a stainless flex pipe, 'to account for engine flex' this should be all I need to complete down pipe. I ordered these from a web sight call APTUNNING.net, They have a good suply of parts for doing costom work. Oil feed is a -4an line and return is a -6an. Also bought a cold air intake to hack apart and use inplace of factory air box. And I picked up some o2 sensor bungs for factory o2s and wideband.
I see the end is in sight. I still need a aem fic and wideband. Once again I am out of cash and waiting for next paycheck.:cry:

Focus_Sh1ft

08-22-2010, 11:51 AM

pimp my yaris

08-22-2010, 11:51 AM

OK total spent on All parts so far is $1180.24. This completes the turbo kit and includes the used corolla injectors. Now I just need tuning equipment. :thumbup:

Focus_Sh1ft

08-22-2010, 11:55 AM

pimp my yaris

08-22-2010, 11:59 AM

What I find interesting is that company, like Zage, also uses that wacky loop bolt with the holes to feed oil to the turbo. Common sense says its a sucky design in my opinion, I wonder why it's so popular? :iono:

Oh, and I feel this is appropriate.

Jersey > Chi-town

:tongue:

I know it looks wacky but they use this for brake lines on cars that hold over 1500 psi. So its pretty reliable. I think they use this to keep the profile low so the line doesent rub on anything. And U can mount it in either direction depending on how u mount your turbo. If you want you can buy fittings so you dont need to use this banjo bolt. But thats just more money.

pimp my yaris

08-22-2010, 12:01 PM

Haha I was literally just about to edit my post asking how much you spent so far.

Was wondering though - how much is the custom work (such as piping) costing you? Or is your buddy doing it free of charge?

Its all me except for welding up the downpipe and mabe some final tuning. I am going to try some tuning myself first. Gotta learn somewhere!:iono:

Focus_Sh1ft

08-22-2010, 12:32 PM

Its all me except for welding up the downpipe and mabe some final tuning. I am going to try some tuning myself first. Gotta learn somewhere!:iono:

Power to ya man. I'm hoping between the two of us we'll help shed some (additional) light on turboing this car successfully. I can't even begin to tell you how much I get laughed at when I tell people what I'm doing to a YARIS. :rolleyes:

Granted, those are the naysayers that think a turbo on this car is only going to put out 10 hp at .5 bar.

I kinda wanna learn tuning too, but that's one thing I just don't feel comfortable doing currently. The other way I see it is that an AEM wideband is easily $200, and with that money you're already half way done covering your tuning costs.

Once again, good luck to you.

advocate

08-22-2010, 09:25 PM

Well this thread has been quite entertaining. You have one more fan rooting for your success can't wait to see.

What I love the most is the budget. Really goes against the idea that turboing successfully will cost $5000.

Budget turbo on a budget car makes total sense.

pimp my yaris

09-02-2010, 12:57 AM

Alright, I finally got some more work done today. first since last post I took the exhaust manafold to my friends machine shop and had him resurface the part that meets the engine block. I think it would have been ok it just looked a little rough. I also installed the turbo and manifold for the third time to set up oil feed and drain lines. This is my daily driver exect for my motorcycle, so until I am fully ready to go I need to keep retuning to stock when Im done working.
It was hotter then hell today and super humid. I removed my lower oil pan and tryed to judge where to tap the upper oil pan for my return line. I had allready recieved my 20in braided -8an return line and one 45 degree 1/2 npt fitting and one 90 degree npt fitting to install in the upper pan. After checking this out I decided 1/2 in is to large a hole to be drilling and tapping into my engine. So I will order a 90 deg. 1/4" to -8an fitting. I didnt want to wait for that to get here so for now I bought some fitting from hardware store to use 1/4" rubber hose. I also bought a 1/4" npt tap. I drilled a hole in about the only place accessable in the upper pan without removing the engine. I used my unibit a drilled to 7/16 as recomended by my tap. I was very surprised at how thin this aluminum is. I then tapped the hole. All worked out well. Also installed fittings and gasket with some silicone on the turbo.
One problem I have is that with the return line so low on the pan. If the line is removed oil will leak out. Im sure atleast 2qt. So for now I installed a kinked hose to seal my engine.
Tomarrow I will prime the turbo. Attach the return line, and let it idle for a while when checking for leaks. Im sure it will be loud as hell with no exhaust.
Speaking of that I found a local exhaust shop that will work with me on welding up my downpipe. I told then I will need to take it home between welds and measure and mark for the next weld. All for 40$. What A great deal. Hope it all works out.:iono:
I will also order my AEM FIC tomarrow after depositing my paycheck.

Parmas

09-02-2010, 07:20 AM

Nice work man but why did you tap the block so near to the bottom?

cali yaris

09-02-2010, 12:54 PM

^ might be ok, but it also might back up, I had one do that. Regardless, he's committed to that spot for now.

Nexus1155

09-02-2010, 01:01 PM

Regardless, he's committed to that spot for now.

LOL you got that right!. I mean you could always plug or have it welded, but it should be alright. It will drain out when all the oil gets moving away from the oil pan and starts to circulate. Ever test how much oil is in the pan when the car is warmed up? I think you should be fine

Focus_Sh1ft

09-02-2010, 02:42 PM

Bah, I wish I had a mechanic friend and all the tools you have lol.

The return should be fine, it's even lower on the Zage pan. I haven't (yet) had any problems with it.

cdydjded

09-02-2010, 03:11 PM

The return has to be above the oil line. You have it too low. You will know it is to low when you get white smoke from you exhaust....

pimp my yaris

09-02-2010, 09:27 PM

Well I primed the turbo and started her up. Sounds awsome when spooling up. No intake tubing in place yet. Also no oil leaks and sending unit working well. I think my return should work well as long as long as crankcase is vented properly. As for why its so low. Its very tight behind the engine and I drilled about the only place I could fit my drill between engine and K-frame. I will by a catch can soon to keep crackcase pressure low and keep return line free flowing. I also got a short video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G07Q5LSiT6I

Yoda

09-02-2010, 10:04 PM

sounds like it was blowing bubbles

pimp my yaris

09-02-2010, 10:09 PM

Ya I think my I-phone was maxed out. And it sounded a little weird with no exhaust. Gonna try to get exhaust completed this weekend.

Focus_Sh1ft

09-02-2010, 10:23 PM

That sounds... So familiar...

:thumbsup:

Parmas

09-03-2010, 05:41 AM

Man that is so familiar when I had it with only the downpipe attached

At least I enjoyed it for a few months like that then I had to make a full exhaust because of people complaining in the neighbourhood

pimp my yaris

09-03-2010, 06:13 PM

Ok more work today and a problem. I installed all my intercooler piping, air filter and mass air.
Tryed to start her and it will only run for about 10sec, then it starts missing and shaking then dies. Of coarse check engine light is on but my obd2 scanner will not read newer car that use CAN communication system. Also my o2 sesnor is disconnected because I do not have downpipe yet.

What Im thinking is that the mass air sensor is to far away from the engine to read correctly. Mass air is located on intake side of turbo. So many feet of tubing including intercooler and turbo between mass air and throttle body. I may try to have pressurized mass air and locate it just in front of throttle body. More similar to stock location so there is not such a lag in readings.

Hey Jerzy if your checking this please tell me where zage locates there mass air sensor. I am very curious. And any other sugestions are appriciated.

pimp my yaris

09-03-2010, 08:03 PM

Never mind I'm a total retard! Dam mass air was in backwards. Air flowing wrong direction. Its all good now.

pimp my yaris

09-03-2010, 09:26 PM

Still have no downpipe, but I coudnt wait no more. I went down the street and gave her just a little gas and got up to 3psi. Awsome the torque started pulling right away. Thats enough for today. Tomarrow hopfully I can complete downpipe or mabe the whole exhaust.

blacksandiegovitz

09-03-2010, 11:04 PM

Focus_Sh1ft

09-04-2010, 12:01 AM

Glad you figured out that MAF problem, I was reading it and the only thing I had to chime in was that Zage has the EXACT SAME setup with the MAF lol.

pimp my yaris

09-04-2010, 10:35 AM

Just a couple pics. I cut off that stupid ear on the valve cover that goes around the fuel rail that makes it so difficult to remove.

Bluevitz-rs

09-04-2010, 10:46 AM

Just a heads up.. having the valve cover breather on that side of the MAF will eventually cause it to fail from the oil residue getting on the hot wires.

Focus_Sh1ft

09-04-2010, 11:31 AM

It looks like he could just flip the pipe?

cali yaris

09-04-2010, 02:09 PM

I cut off that stupid ear on the valve cover

ha, I did that too.

pimp my yaris

09-04-2010, 05:37 PM

It looks like he could just flip the pipe?

Ya I originally had the pipe
Fliped but the mass air was reversed and would not start.

pimp my yaris

09-04-2010, 05:39 PM

Just a heads up.. having the valve cover breather on that side of the MAF will eventually cause it to fail from the oil residue getting on the hot wires.

Thanks for the tip. I didnt think of that. I was just trying to get bye till I pick up a catch can. I think I will just let it vent outside now.

kou

09-04-2010, 05:58 PM

disconnect that breather and plug the intake pipe,you wouldnt believe how much oil is sucked into the motor.let the valve cover vent into the atmosphere.

pimp my yaris

09-05-2010, 11:14 AM

More progress. Went to my favorite local exhaust shop yesterday afternoon and they welded up my downpipe and installed a new exhaust. My downpipe is 2.0" stainless mandrel bent with 2 sensor bungs and the rest is 2.25" machine bent with a sweet muffler. Its a little loud for my taste. But its looks awsome and I should have no problems with flow. I also had them weld in a flange at the end of my downpipe so I can remove it for some heat wrap installation.
I gotta say I'm a little nervous about heat. Dam this thing gets hot. I still dont have the wiper motor or wiper tray installed and when I'm dome driving I can feel the heat just pouring out between the hood and windsheild. Gonna buy some wrap and insullate it as best I can. Its making me nervous with the ECM so close to the hairdryer! I have only been driving slow as well. No full throttle launches yet.
Tuesday I will go to a local performance shop and pick up a aem wideband to see how the fuel is. I had a friend follow me in his convertable and he said he smells gas when he is behind me. I would rather be running rich then lean right now.
Today I will work on heat wrap and some coolant lines when I get home from work:thumbsup:

pimp my yaris

09-05-2010, 11:28 AM

The exhaust work and parts was 260$. This brings the total spent to $1440.24.

Nexus1155

09-05-2010, 12:08 PM

I see both of you guys are worried about the heat, I understand its in a troubling location that is annoying if heat is there and might melt things over time, but why not just get a turbo blanket and shield most of the heat. Of course downpipe will still be hot, but thats a given too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-SMALL-Premium-Turbo-Blanket-Heat-Shield-BLACK-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3f01a7c7caQQitemZ27061 0712522QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

blacksandiegovitz

09-05-2010, 12:26 PM

I'm also working on a turbo kit for my yaris right now and the ecu location so close to the turbo also seems like it might be a problem over time . I was thinking of just getting some sheet metal and making a cover for the ecu and the covering in in reflective heat tape sold here
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/cool_foil_tape.php

cali yaris

09-05-2010, 01:28 PM

I was thinking of just getting some sheet metal and making a cover for the ecu and the covering in in reflective heat tape

That's exactly what I did when I was at 8psi -- worked great and no issues for the 9 months I had it like that.

I also wrapped the downpipe and Jet Hotted the exhaust mani.

OP didn't mention if the new exhaust has a cat, two cats and/or a resonator. If your catless now, you will smell some gas in the exhaust, plus you are probably a little rich.

pimp my yaris

09-05-2010, 02:44 PM

Thanks for the tips those products look good. I will try to find something like this local around my house

pimp my yaris

09-06-2010, 12:52 AM

Nexus1155

09-06-2010, 10:21 AM

Just don't hit full boost until you get everything sorted out especially proper fuelling with tune. 10psi on a GT25 is different than 10psi on a GT28, you may be perfectly fine. Try to find a flow graph for that particular turbo and compare to other peoples setups.

Focus_Sh1ft

09-06-2010, 04:32 PM

Coulda sworn those Ebay places that sell GT25's have their wastegates set at 14 psi. I'll double check.

Edit: Nope, nevermind. The place you bought from says 8 psi. I'd be pissed at them?

You and I have the same diameter exhaust, so that can't be the issue.

pimp my yaris

09-06-2010, 05:51 PM

Well I ordered a 7psi wastegate actuator. And Im also looking into more heat sheilding. Found a good websight. http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive_products.php

blacksandiegovitz

09-06-2010, 05:59 PM

Well I ordered a 7psi wastegate actuator. And Im also looking into more heat sheilding. Found a good websight. http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive_products.php

^^ Yeah , I posted a link to that website like 5 post previous to this lol

pimp my yaris

09-06-2010, 06:54 PM

^^ Yeah , I posted a link to that website like 5 post previous to this lol

O ya, I was wondering how I found that place. Old age kicks in and U start repeat-in!

Nexus1155

09-06-2010, 07:16 PM

pimp my yaris

09-06-2010, 10:36 PM

Did you test the actuator cracking pressure with a regulator? Think you may be overboosting? Or have a leak somewhere in one of your lines? Try to put a MBC and cap it off if that is the case if you can't find the issue. If you are dead set on a new wastegate, and it does the same thing,, you have an issue with how you set it up.

Going to remove acuator tomarrow and try to test with my compressor. Vaccume leak is unlikely. There is only a 3in piece of vac. line between turbo compressor housing and actuator and it is clamped on both ends. There is no MBC tapped in. A MBC can only raise boost pressure it can not lower it. Base boost pressure is decided by the spring force on the wastegate actuator.

Bluevitz-rs

09-06-2010, 11:06 PM

It better to run a lower pressure waste-gate and use an electronic boost controller.

cali yaris

09-06-2010, 11:38 PM

^ +1 million

Nexus1155

09-07-2010, 01:45 AM

A MBC can only raise boost pressure it can not lower it. Base boost pressure is decided by the spring force on the wastegate actuator.

Yeah, but if you're overboosting and shooting past the wastegate cracking pressure you can cap it off.

Parmas

09-07-2010, 07:22 AM

Houston we have a problem! Well I wrapped the downpipe with header wrap today and placed some sheet metal in front of the ECM. Then I went for another test drive. Found some open road and nailed it in first gear. This thing was awsome. Pulled like a strong V6. But my problem is my eyes were glued to the boost guage and I let off the gas when it hit 10 psi. Holly shit I cant believe the stock wastegate actuator would let it get this high. I still dont even know how high it would go. Im sure my fuel system is no match for this. It happened fast but it felt like it lost power after about 8-9 psi. I think it went lean. So tomarrow I will be looking for a new acuator. At least nothing blew up.:eek:

Well if you didn't installed a boost controller ... you just experienced the so called boost spike. This problem appears on first gear (or in the case of a C160 transmission also on second gear which is low) . This problem is cured by controlling spring pressure directly from wastegate or tru the boost controller.

Boost Spiking could be dangerously fatal to engine internals since your tune may not be rich enough for the amount of boost entering the engine.

pimp my yaris

09-07-2010, 11:11 AM

Well I removed my wastegate actuator today and tested it with a small compressor. It cracked at 13psi and did not completely extend until 18-19psi. In other words way to much. As far as the boost spike, I thought of that too. But it would hold and maintain 10psi in forth gear as well. For now I will take it easy until my new 7psi acuator gets here.

pimp my yaris

09-07-2010, 04:45 PM

After testing the acuator and finding the spring is way to strong, I have rigged up a temp. fix until new actuator arives in mail [see pic]. I dont want to run lean and I will need to drive this car to work. The spring pulls to open the wastegate sooner. Right now tension is set around 6.5psi. I am now able to finally hit the gas without the drama. So I made a short video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2WwE2LF0ak

Also on my way to work a dropped Ford focus passed me very slowly and paused when they got in front of me. The passenger a young guy was pointing at my front mount. Then they slowed down and gave me thumbs up. I waved and hit the gas, as they tryed to keep up. Left them in the rear view. I accelerated to 100mph, and I got their pretty quick. Then I let off the gas and enjoyed my GLORY for a while waiting for them to catch up. I can say now its all worth it!!!!! :bellyroll:

cali yaris

09-07-2010, 05:23 PM

cool man, sounds nice!

Focus_Sh1ft

09-07-2010, 06:25 PM

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

This car is damn fun to drive boosted lol. I've been driving pretty conservatively until I get tuned as well. My only regret is not buying a manual three years ago. :frown:

Now that we both got our turbos in... LET THE VIDEO WAR COMMENCE!!!

... eventually.

:biggrin:

Oh, and get your codes read pleeeeeeease.

pimp my yaris

09-07-2010, 07:03 PM

Bluevitz-rs

09-07-2010, 07:45 PM

:burnrubber:BBBrrrrrrrOOOOOMMMMM....Pssshhhhh :burnrubber: ...BBBrrrrrrOOOOMMMMM....Psssshhhhh
:w00t:

PETERPOOP

09-07-2010, 10:45 PM

cali yaris

09-07-2010, 10:56 PM

^ haha, it's just the start of it, I believe!

Bluevitz-rs

09-07-2010, 11:43 PM

It's funny how YW had very few guys who were turbo'd, and almost none who wanted to explore using parts from ZAGE kits and what not; now you two guys come out of no where and do it at almost the same time as each other, and are successful at it! lol. wtf?

Well if you compaire the Echo/Yaris/Vitz to the Civic scene, they've only been around for 11 years now, as where the Civic was out nearly 20 years before it REALLY took off as a cheap tuner car. About the only thing we have going for us is the fact that the 1NZ-FE is still the same motor is was introduced as.

cali yaris

09-08-2010, 12:28 AM

^ plus the xB aftermarket, which was weak but did help with development

PETERPOOP

09-08-2010, 12:30 AM

Well if you compaire the Echo/Yaris/Vitz to the Civic scene, they've only been around for 11 years now, as where the Civic was out nearly 20 years before it REALLY took off as a cheap tuner car. About the only thing we have going for us is the fact that the 1NZ-FE is still the same motor is was introduced as.

I'm just saying that it's funny how two guys out of nowhere started and finished a turbo build. Not that the yaris doesn't have a huge market for aftermarket parts. :wink:

cali yaris

09-08-2010, 01:41 AM

I sure like this better than the "I'm going to do a turbo build....in like two years" threads.

pimp my yaris

09-09-2010, 01:08 AM

Focus_Sh1ft

09-09-2010, 11:19 AM

Today I hooked up coolant lines to turbo. After going to 3 ace hardware store's I finally got some 1/2" to 5/8" hose barb junctions. Turbo lines are a little smaller then the heater core lines. I was thinking of using the throttle body coolant lines but they were so small I dont now if they would flow enough. So now coolant runs out of cyl. head into turbo and then into heater core and then to T-stat. Should give me super fast heat in the winter. Bonus:biggrin:

Also got a AEM wideband yesterday and will hook it up tomarrow. I should have done this before driving.

Just gotta say driving this thing is so much more fun when it has some BALLS. I mean I aint gonna be taken out no Vetts or STI's. But I wouldn't mind taking a run at a Golf GTI:drool:

Awesome idea on the coolant lines lmao. I'm impressed you were able to find a 5/8" fitting too. Home Depot, Sears, and lowes only carry like 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4. Pretty sucky. That's why I ended up using a compression fitting for my coolant lines because it's the only thing that fit.

And agreed on the having balls part. This car + low boost = stupidly fun daily driver. I like having balls.

...That sounded kinda gay. :rolleyes:

pimp my yaris

09-09-2010, 03:12 PM

Ok I hooked up the aem wideband today and I am running way to lean in the upper half of the rev. range. Foot to the floor in the 1.5k-3.5k rpm range its runing 12/1 but in the upper range its going as high as 16/1 at full boost [6-7psi]. I am glad I found out before any damage was done. My injectors were from a 98-99 1zz corolla. Could these possible be smaller then my stock injectors???
I think I will try the stock injectors for comparison when the engine cools off a little.
I do not have a tuning computer yet. I figured If any thing I would be runing to rich with larger injectors. I guess I was seriously wrong.
Well I hope I can richen things up a bit with that AEM FIC, when I can afford to pick one up.

Parmas

09-10-2010, 01:50 AM

I think I will try the stock injectors for comparison when the engine cools off a little.

Man don't make mistakes after all the money and time invested.

Stock injectors will surely put your engine at risk!

What size of injectors are you using?

What resistance are the injectors rated?

At what fuel pressure are you injecting? Do you have a pressure regulator?

I had 4x Nippon Denso 340cc injectors previously and I ran rich on all rev range with 9psi of boost on a GT28 Turbo. They are for sale if you want :smile:

pimp my yaris

09-10-2010, 07:03 AM

Parmas

09-10-2010, 12:11 PM

Parmas: My fuel system is completely stock, except for stock 1zz injectors. I installed the stock injectors witch actually made it a little richer! I need to get a aem piggyback and try to learn how to make adjustments when the boost is kicking at higher rpm. What are U asking for those 340cc injectors?
For now I am staying out of the high rpm.

I think the coil resistance of your 1zz injectors are of different impedance than the oem ones since it cannot possible be more rich with stock.

For the injectors I am asking $40 per injector flow tested to 340cc. If you are really interested private msg me with your full address to check shipping charges.

pimp my yaris

09-12-2010, 11:23 AM

Well my wastegate actuator came in on friday. It was rated at 7 psi acording to the E-bay description, but when I tested it with my compressor is did not crack until 13-14 psi. This is about the same as the one that is overboosting on my turbo now. Now I am realy F%&*ing pissed. I wasted 48$ for the same shit I already had. What does it take to get a low PSI acutuator. I have searched but can't find one that fits my turbo. I also dont wan't to waste anymore money. So for now I still have this big spring attched to my fender apron pulling my wastegate open early. It looks like crap and I dont trust it for the long run.
Also recieved my heat wrap blanket to wrap my turbo in. It seems promising and quality made. I bought a 1' by 3' sheet. It has a sheet metal backing and can be shaped around things. It is rated for 1800 degrees continuous. I will take a pic and let U know how it turns out. It is difficult to wrap a turbo with a internal wastegate.

Bluevitz-rs

09-12-2010, 11:49 AM

Is there any way to open it up to trim the spring shorter, making it open under less pressure?

Nexus1155

09-12-2010, 01:47 PM

Everyone always says adjusting the nut and increasing the tension or decreasing tension on the spring will change where it actuates at. I have had the exact opposite experience whenever i was adjusting turbos. I tightened it a few cranks past where the wastegate would be shut closed just to have it tight. Cracked around 10psi, anything tighter still cracked at 10psi.

I mean I get the concept, its just like a boost controller with a spring, turn the knob make the spring smaller, ball only allows so much movement in spring to allow air to flow through.

I'd say its worth a try to just fiddle with it, but you never want the wastegate itself loose/ cracked open, always shut tight when you have the actuator on.

pimp my yaris

09-12-2010, 01:49 PM

Is there any way to open it up to trim the spring shorter, making it open under less pressure?

I could cut it open but I dont have a welder to put it back together. I still may try that. Mabe find a weaker spring. Thats what I was looking for.

Nexus1155

09-12-2010, 02:10 PM

Focus_Sh1ft

09-12-2010, 02:15 PM

I think this is pretty obvious but don't you find it strange that two seperate actuators rated for the correct psi both cracked at the wrong psi? Isn't it possible that something else is the cause...?

pimp my yaris

09-12-2010, 03:30 PM

I tested both actuators out of the car and not attached to anything but my compressor. So I dont think it could be any thing else. Its not like the wastegate is binding. Also when installed in my car it will go over 10 psi and maintain it. I refused to hit the gas any harder just to see how high it will go. With a storng spring attached and pulling the oposit direction I have it limited to 6-7 psi. I can tell U both the actuators I have require a lot of force to pull open or compress spring. You need two hands. Its just to much boost for my weee little Yariee.:cry: If In was sporting forged rods, pistons and proper fueling I would not worry about 10-15psi. But right now Im running lean at 6-7psi. My car is a 2009 and Im not ready to be ginny pig to see how much it can handle.

pimp my yaris

09-12-2010, 03:33 PM

Once you cut it open, i can almost assure you that it is destroyed. Can you post a graph of your turbo? Maybe 10psi is not TOO much and won't hurt internals. You are on a smaller turbo after all.

http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/8647/wastegatepictureha1.jpg

I dont know why on earth anyone would cut a actuator open in that way except to destroy it. I would make a small cut around the base just to access the spring. I still haven't decided if I want to try that yet. I might try to return it.

xbgod

09-12-2010, 05:31 PM

I have one word for you "Tial"

Parmas

09-13-2010, 10:20 AM

I have one word for you "Tial"

You have to understand that he is on a budget and Tial wastegates aren't cheap.

We all wish we have all the money like you spent on your Xb !

xbgod

09-13-2010, 10:36 AM

understandable, however....it's better to buy one good part than two shity ones and still end up with the same problem and have spent what would of cost you for one good part to begin with.

You never know what your getting from Ebay. Better to save for an extra week or two and up with the right stuff.

Tial MVS waste gate 249.00 Small amount to pay for the price of your motor knowing your not going to have issues.

I know were not all made of money and neither am I so don't think I'm going for that angle.

XBG

pimp my yaris

09-13-2010, 12:08 PM

You have to understand that he is on a budget and Tial wastegates aren't cheap.

We all wish we have all the money like you spent on your Xb !

Yes thats true, I'm kinda broke as a joke right now. And Parmas I am intrested in your injectors and I will let U now when I have some more dollars,rubles,euro's or yen. I need to get that aem fic first to see what duty cycle my injectors are runing at first.
I installed my turbo heat sheild yesterday. It was a little difficult to wrap around a turbo with a internal wastegate. I have more sharp edges. I got it wraped and it does not interfere with the wastegate. It does not look pretty and I have some more work to do around the manafold. I gotta say this stuff works great though. Cooled temps down a lot. I finally installed my wipers and windsheild cowl. Its warm under the hood but not like the oven it was before. Also I carry a fire extinguisher in the car now for safety. The heat sheild did not smoke at all, good stuff.:thumbsup: though.http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hp_armor.php

xbgod

09-13-2010, 12:19 PM

I'm not sure when you need injectors by. But I'm out of country right now and will be home in mid OCT. I have a set of 380cc Precision injectors I'm not useing, there just taking up space in my garage. If you can wait till I get home there yours. You pick up the freight though.

XBG

xbgod

09-13-2010, 12:39 PM

That means FREE..........no rubbles, pasos, euro, dinar....ect. I don't mind helping a brother out when I have extra.

XBG

Focus_Sh1ft

09-13-2010, 12:44 PM

That means FREE..........no rubbles, pasos, euro, dinar....ect. I don't mind helping a brother out when I have extra.

XBG

Wow. Sweet ride and a super nice guy. The world needs more of you, sir.

:thumbsup:

cdydjded

09-13-2010, 12:46 PM

xbgod

09-13-2010, 02:45 PM

The AEM unit will handle a 380cc injector. I used these injectors on a 14g turbo with no issues. Just do the smart thing and have a reliable tunner tune your car.

These are Precision turbo injectors that are port matched. That means they all flow the same. Be sure to run a 255l hr. walboro pump as well.

Between these injectors and a walboro pump you have plenty of room to grow without the fear of running lean.

XBG

cdydjded

09-13-2010, 02:57 PM

XBG: Did you know that the Yaris runs a returnless fuel system?

xbgod

09-13-2010, 02:57 PM

One more thing, if that turbo dosen't work out for you...let me know I have a like new Greddy 14G turbo in a box at home. I had a new impeller and shaft put in it and had it freshened up for later on down the line incase I found use for it. But I'd let it go cheap for someone in need. Like 400.00....Hell I'll even give you the Greddy exhaust manifold that is jet-hot coated black with it.

Keep me posted. Let me know if you want the injectors or need help with something else. I got more shit laying around from T/E than you can imagine. I even have a Blitz S/C in a box. So hit me up if you need something or advice.

XBG

xbgod

09-13-2010, 02:59 PM

Yah...so does the XB. But that's not a problem. Do what I did run a regulator put a fuel bung in your tank and make it return. It's to easy! Think outside the box

XBG

xbgod

09-13-2010, 03:04 PM

Of course you will need a new fuel rail to make it return. Call Perrin Performance. Yes I know, they don't make them no more. Bullshit, they have a box of them on the floor in brushed aluminum with no fuel line hooked to them. They will garage sell them for 110.00 and all you do is get a piece of #6 line and your golden. Or call OBX for that knock-off one.

XBG

cdydjded

09-13-2010, 03:46 PM

K just making sure....

xbgod

09-13-2010, 04:02 PM

no problem.....If there's a will there's a way. Never settle for can't be done or thats impossible. Thats just someone else to afraid to do the unknown. Look at me 70mm T/B on a Weapon-R intake manifold. No one else has done it, but I did.

XBG

cdydjded

09-13-2010, 04:36 PM

Trust me Im with you, look & my profile, Im one of the few boosted Yaris here, I made the kit myself

pimp my yaris

09-13-2010, 04:39 PM

That means FREE..........no rubbles, pasos, euro, dinar....ect. I don't mind helping a brother out when I have extra.

XBG

Wow christmas in october. Yes please let me know. Thats about the time I plan on recieving my piggy back. Perfect. I will gladly pay U shipping.:bow:

xbgod

09-13-2010, 04:50 PM

no problem. just PM me your details and I'll ship them to you when I return to the house. I'll use my UPS account to send them so you can track them to your house.

XBG

pimp my yaris

09-13-2010, 04:55 PM

Pimp: I just noticed from the last pic you posted that you W/G has an adjustable rod. Have to tried to turn down your boost with that? Also I have the 1ZZ injectors on my car which are 240cc & my car runs very rich. This of course without correction from the AEM FIC. IMO & experience any injector larger than that is not necessary for our HP/boost level & also with be difficult to tune due to it being so big.

I have that rod adjusted just tight enough to close the wastegate with only a small amount of pull. Unfortunatly the spring tension is not adjustable. I think I am starting to figure out why it is so tight though. That spring U see in the picture that is pulling against the wastegate to open it sooner. The wastegate is opening at 3psi now. But boost still creeps up to 5psi at higher rpm. The turbo is small and the wastegate hole is very small. I think at such low psi the wastegate is not very effective because their isn't much load on the turbo [ie: its not pumping much air]. Once I get fuel ratio under control I would like to run about 7-8psi. Then I think I can avoid the boost creep.:burnrubber:

pimp my yaris

09-13-2010, 05:06 PM

Total spent so far 1680$ Recent purchases: AEM wideband, various oil and coolant line fittings and some hose for coolant lines.

xbgod

09-13-2010, 05:21 PM

Another thing gentlemen, I see alot of fittings being bought at ACE hardware or Home Depot. Were not retro-fitting a toilet so use quality fittings that handle pressure and are designed for our particular use.

Russell, Earls or keithblack or even precision performance make great fittings and lines.

If people show enough interest I can gladly get a bulk buy of fittings and lines.I just need to know what your looking for.

XBG

pimp my yaris

09-13-2010, 06:35 PM

I used a couple of brass fittings from ace because my car is a daily driver and I could not wait to order them. Had to get to work. But believe me my car does not leak a single drop or burn any oil. I will replace my fittings and rubber oil return line with aluminum fittings and -8an braided line once more important fuel issues are sorted out.:thumbup:

xbgod

09-14-2010, 01:05 AM

Ok brother. just want your stuff right.....

XBG

pimp my yaris

09-14-2010, 01:53 PM

Took some pics just cause I washed my car today.

xbgod

09-14-2010, 02:55 PM

Wish I was home to wash my car. My kids skyped me and showed me how they wrote wash me on it.

Lookin good bro...keep it shinny.

XBG

fnkngrv

09-14-2010, 03:05 PM

My kids skyped me and showed me how they wrote wash me on it.

XBG

OUCH! I always cringe when someone does that as it can cause telltale scratches...love the kids and mine do it sometimes, but for the most part I have them trained not to do it...they get the glare of death if I catch them...lol

xbgod

09-14-2010, 03:10 PM

Yeah, thank god my parents own a collision shop where I can use the paint booth for free.

Gotta love those kids, they love the track

XBG

pimp my yaris

09-17-2010, 05:50 PM

I have mentioned I have been runing lean without tuning. So today I ordered my AEM FIC so I can get some tuning done. Also I removed my spark plugs and checked the tops of my pistons with my Bora-scope to see if any pitting or melting had ocured. And I can say my pistons are looking good. If anyone is wondering what a Bora-scope is, Its a small fiber optic flexable strand with a adjustable lens that lets U get a eye on the combustion chamber. It also has a light on the end. Its a tool I dont use often but its great when U need it.
Also took a pic of spark plugs. They are a little white from runing lean but I've seen worse.

pimp my yaris

09-17-2010, 05:55 PM

Also has anyone used swoosh gauges? They seem like a resonable priced gauge compared to Defi with many of the same features. They also use a stepper motor for acuracy.
If anyone has used them please let me know how they worked out?

Parmas

09-18-2010, 04:51 PM

Man that Bora Scope is awesome and a good general utility not just for cars :)

I wonder how much would it be?

xbgod

09-18-2010, 05:11 PM

Plugs don't look that bad. At least their not orange like mine turn from race fuel.

Bore-Scope good investment along with a compression gauge and dial calipers.

Don't go cheap on your gauges, you'll just need to replace them. Autometer is a great priced gauge and people their are easy to deal with. Defi is also geat but I think over priced for what you get. You may even look at PLX gauges they make a sick comp-u-link system.

Good hunting

XBG

pimp my yaris

09-23-2010, 10:13 PM

I got my FIC today and spent every daylight hour working on installation. It wasnt to bad. The hard part was finding correct wiring diagrams in the service manual. I have the manual on cd rom and I also used the online version posted on this sight. http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/
I got crank, cam, tps, mass air sensors and fuel injectors hooked up. Also power and ground wiring. Tomarrow I will hook up my wide band and a switch to do data logging. It came with a super fast bypass connector to check your work when your done. The unit was much small then I thought and should be easy to hide under dash. And as a bonus there was a hole in the firewall next to the ECM with a rubber plug. So it was easy to run my wiring into the engine compartment. I will post more tomarrow on how the tuning is going. I am going to figure this this out. Failure is not a option!:burnrubber:

pimp my yaris

09-23-2010, 10:22 PM

The last two pictures show how many wires were actually used for my car, [those were under hood] and how many were not used [hanging under dash].
Its not because I'm lazy. This thing was designed to work with any car. Their is wiring for hall effect sensors and magnetic sensors. Only the mag. were used. Their is also several options like a rpm activated programable switch. And the ability the use and manipulate the factory O2 sensor. I am using a wideband.

Focus_Sh1ft

09-23-2010, 10:23 PM

:thumbsup:

Funny, because I'm waiting for my wideband but had my FIC right from the get-go.

I should be able to begin tuning next week so we gotta help each other out. :smile:

How exactly are you planning on going about this? Clamp MAF, remap, watch STFT, then adjust fuel maps?

sleey0

09-23-2010, 10:29 PM

Wait, so how many wires total for our cars?

I am still debating whether or not to pony up the $499 boomslang wants for a pre-wired FIC harness.

You know what would be FRIGGIN sweet? A little guide on which wire goes where. IF you don't mind, of course:D

Nexus1155

09-23-2010, 10:35 PM

Focus_Sh1ft

09-23-2010, 10:40 PM

Yeah I would like someone to make a nice little excel wiring chart that would be neat-o. But if you are going to get an FIC and the Boomslang and drop around $850 on it and probably more on getting it tuned, you might as well try the DEZOD setup for a little bit more and have an easier time tuning it yourself with more capability?

Bingo. This thing isn't hard to wire up at all.

Wait, so how many wires total for our cars?

I am still debating whether or not to pony up the $499 boomslang wants for a pre-wired FIC harness.

You know what would be FRIGGIN sweet? A little guide on which wire goes where. IF you don't mind, of course:D

I have a guide for this, I just haven't posted it up yet. Also need to wire up my cam and crank wires still.

EDIT: Here's a quick excerpt of wiring:
FIC Power (IGN PWR) - A21-1 or A21-2
FIC Gnd (PWR GND) (SIG GND)- C20-104
Injector 1 (INJ 1 IN/OUT)- C20-108
Injector 2 (INJ 2 IN/OUT) - C20-107
Injector 3 (INJ 3 IN/OUT)- C20-106
Injector 4 (INJ 4 IN/OUT)- C20-105
MAF (MAF IN +/OUT +)- C20-118
TPS (TPS+)– C20-115
Cam+ (CAM1 MAGI+/MAGO+) - C20-99
Cam- (CAM2 MAGI-/MAGO-)- C20-121
Crank+ (CRK MAGI+/MAGO+)- C20-122
Crank- (CRK MAGI-/MAGO-)- C20-121

ECM pinout: http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/products/electric/camcon/ECU-data/YarisControl.pdf

Then, of course, some wires are tap while others are intercept. The guide I wrote AND the FIC manual details how they should be attached. It's cake tbh. No reason to spend $500 unless you're deathly scared of doing wiring, at which point I wonder how you have the balls to install a supercharger but not make a couple splices.:tongue:

sleey0

09-23-2010, 10:41 PM

Depends.

The boomslang will be last resort. If someone does make a nice cheat sheet I will gladly wire it or have a buddy do it, if possible.

If not, I might just say f-it and get the slang. They do sell an extender harness for $399. This might make more sense so I can save my cars wiring from cutting and also I can wire the fic into it in the comfort of my living room and recliner:D

Besides, dezod wants $2k for it and that I don't have. Not sure I want a stand-alone anyway.

sleey0

09-23-2010, 10:43 PM

Bingo. This thing isn't hard to wire up at all.

I have a guide for this, I just haven't posted it up yet. Also need to wire up my cam and crank wires still.

Not hard for you. lol

Without some clear cut pin-outs of which wires I need from the ECU it might be a little difficult for me:redface:

EDIT: Ahh. I see you have a guide on the way. THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH!!!!!

Nexus1155

09-23-2010, 11:19 PM

eeeeek 2k i thought it was around $1200 ill have to recheck that thread

sleey0

09-23-2010, 11:21 PM

I am sure he said $2k. maybe you are right.

He was going to cut a deal with someone here to test it out so he can get some more customers, but that was an exception.

Regardless, I think that would be overkill for me. As long as focus put up that guide I will be fine:D

pimp my yaris

09-24-2010, 12:35 AM

Bingo. This thing isn't hard to wire up at all.

I have a guide for this, I just haven't posted it up yet. Also need to wire up my cam and crank wires still.

EDIT: Here's a quick excerpt of wiring:
FIC Power (IGN PWR) - A21-1 or A21-2
FIC Gnd (PWR GND) (SIG GND)- C20-104
Injector 1 (INJ 1 IN/OUT)- C20-108
Injector 2 (INJ 2 IN/OUT) - C20-107
Injector 3 (INJ 3 IN/OUT)- C20-106
Injector 4 (INJ 4 IN/OUT)- C20-105
MAF (MAF IN +/OUT +)- C20-118
TPS (TPS+)– C20-115
Cam+ (CAM1 MAGI+/MAGO+) - C20-99
Cam- (CAM2 MAGI-/MAGO-)- C20-121
Crank+ (CRK MAGI+/MAGO+)- C20-122
Crank- (CRK MAGI-/MAGO-)- C20-121

ECM pinout: http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/products/electric/camcon/ECU-data/YarisControl.pdf

Then, of course, some wires are tap while others are intercept. The guide I wrote AND the FIC manual details how they should be attached. It's cake tbh. No reason to spend $500 unless you're deathly scared of doing wiring, at which point I wonder how you have the balls to install a supercharger but not make a couple splices.:tongue:

With these pics. Its about all U need for a install guide:biggrin:

sleey0

09-24-2010, 12:42 AM

You guys ROCK!

Thanks!

sleey0

09-24-2010, 12:44 AM

Bingo. This thing isn't hard to wire up at all.

I have a guide for this, I just haven't posted it up yet. Also need to wire up my cam and crank wires still.

EDIT: Here's a quick excerpt of wiring:
FIC Power (IGN PWR) - A21-1 or A21-2
FIC Gnd (PWR GND) (SIG GND)- C20-104
Injector 1 (INJ 1 IN/OUT)- C20-108
Injector 2 (INJ 2 IN/OUT) - C20-107
Injector 3 (INJ 3 IN/OUT)- C20-106
Injector 4 (INJ 4 IN/OUT)- C20-105
MAF (MAF IN +/OUT +)- C20-118
TPS (TPS+)– C20-115
Cam+ (CAM1 MAGI+/MAGO+) - C20-99
Cam- (CAM2 MAGI-/MAGO-)- C20-121
Crank+ (CRK MAGI+/MAGO+)- C20-122
Crank- (CRK MAGI-/MAGO-)- C20-121

ECM pinout: http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/products/electric/camcon/ECU-data/YarisControl.pdf

Then, of course, some wires are tap while others are intercept. The guide I wrote AND the FIC manual details how they should be attached. It's cake tbh. No reason to spend $500 unless you're deathly scared of doing wiring, at which point I wonder how you have the balls to install a supercharger but not make a couple splices.:tongue:

Start a new thread to be stickied with the full guide, whenever you post it.

THANKS!:headbang:

Oh, and I guess it is time for you to get tuned and see what that little supercharger can do! HA!

pimp my yaris

09-24-2010, 12:45 AM

sleey0

09-24-2010, 01:01 AM

Hahaha. I think I'll leave the drinks when I do mine. Quik connects, FTW!

Too funny....

Yeah, $500 is a lot. But you just plug it in and your done in, what, 30 seconds? AND your OEM wiring isn't cut so if you want to put it back to stock to sell it or something it makes life way easier.

It is rape for $500 but what are ya gonna do when there are no other options for a jumper harness?

Looking at it now I will wire it myself. I thought there would be more wires looking at that FIC harness. There are like 100 wires hanging off that thing!

EDIT: Can someone confirm that the Vitz RS e-manage harness is exact to our cars? I can get one of those for like $200 and just wire in the FIC!:D

Focus_Sh1ft

09-24-2010, 01:04 AM

500$ for that boomslang harness is crazy unless your going to remove your turbo. And beleve me, once that turbo is on your only going to want more boost. Just ask Garm! I installed the wiring shown above in about 4-5 hours with a soldering iron solder and shrink wrap. I would have been a lot shorter if I had the info above. I spent most of the time checking sensor wiring diagrams in the toyota service manual. And then rechecking. And then sometimes even checking a third time cause I was drinking LOL :biggrin:

Holy... Don't tell me you wired up the FIC without using that nice and neat ECM pinout hosted on Power Enterprise's site?

Oh and also, I assume you used those wires I listed for the cam and crank? I need to wire mine in still, but I'm guessing that's the correct wire combo.

sleey0

09-24-2010, 01:09 AM

Yeah, make sure those cam and crank pins are correct.

Wouldnt' want someone to wire it up and it be wrong. lol

pimp my yaris

09-24-2010, 04:09 AM

Holy... Don't tell me you wired up the FIC without using that nice and neat ECM pinout hosted on Power Enterprise's site?

Oh and also, I assume you used those wires I listed for the cam and crank? I need to wire mine in still, but I'm guessing that's the correct wire combo.

I used the toyota service manual witch took a little longer. I had to find the wiring diagram for each sensor and figure out witch wire is the sensor output. But in the end I have it wired the same as U. And yes my cam and crank are wired the same as in your little chart. I havent hooked up the fic yet, I will do it later today. I did hook up the jumper bypass connector and started my car with no check engine light. So I think I done good:iono:

cali yaris

09-24-2010, 11:08 AM

I would sure like to see someone try the Boomslang at some point. Just to know the wiring is correct with it.

So fun to watch your builds come up, guys!

pimp my yaris

09-24-2010, 10:31 PM

I set up a base map today. As it turned out it was very rich. About 10/1. Then I did some minor adjustments and I got my air/fuel ratio in the 11.5/12.7 range. I will still do some more adjustments. I am surprised at how well the stock injectors are doing at 7psi. This thing was very intimidating at first, but after playing around with it I think I'm getting the hang of it. I may have to clamp the mass air in the future as I can feel the transition from closed to open loop fueling.

Focus_Sh1ft

09-24-2010, 11:34 PM

pimp my yaris

09-25-2010, 01:03 AM

So how exactly did you do it? Give me ALL the details :biggrin:

To be honest, it would be a lot of typing. I think my fingers would cramp. If You would like PM me your phone # and I can walk U through it using my puter at the same time. Its not as bad as U think. Let me know when is best time to call as well.

pimp my yaris

09-25-2010, 10:26 AM

Question for the boosted?????? What spark plugs should I be runing with boost? A NGK number would be helpful.

Bluevitz-rs

09-25-2010, 11:08 AM

Question for the boosted?????? What spark plugs should I be runing with boost? A NGK number would be helpful.

That depends on what you plugs look like, but generally one heat range colder.

Here's NKG's website (http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/results-cars.cfm?make=TOYOTA&year=2008&model=YARIS&aaia=1442619). The 5 is your heat range, so you need a 6 for one step colder.

sleey0

09-25-2010, 02:20 PM

Most here run heat 7.

I bough ik22's for my buil which are 22 (heat range 7)

Focus_Sh1ft

09-25-2010, 09:49 PM

What's wrong with stock plugs?

sleey0

09-25-2010, 11:06 PM

What's wrong with stock plugs?

Well, when you are boosted you need colder plugs so that there will be less chance of detonation if my reading is right.

Most here run the NGK BRK7EIX which is heat range 7. Stock is 5, IIRC. So two steps colder.

I got the denso's becasue they are supposed to be a little better quality and at Amazon they were the same price as the NGK's.

Be advised that Denso has there own heat range system, so IK22 - heat range 22 which = heat range 7.

Denso makes TRD plugs to there specs based off the IK22 so that is why I went with the IK22's. HEck they might be the same as the $50 per plug TRD's. lol

Focus_Sh1ft

09-25-2010, 11:10 PM

Eh, I've yet to have any detonation issues running at a 14.7 AFR, so that should be even less of a problem after some tuning. Maybe I'll buy some for fun anyways :iono:

Btw, I like this I scratch your back you scratch my back thing we have going on lol.

cali yaris

09-25-2010, 11:27 PM

I've yet to have any detonation issues running at a 14.7 AFR

You won't be, and better not be, at 14.7 under boost.

sleey0

09-25-2010, 11:29 PM

Yeah, bro. Two heads are ALWAYS better than one.

If you aren't having any issues than no worries. Do u run 93 octane?

My build target power is going to be 175-180 safely on stock internals.

I was thinking that a boost controller should keep me tame most of the time and the days I need to vent I will dial it up.

I think a lot of ppl underestimate the 1NZ motor.

We shall see!!!!

I found a tuner/performance shop in Buffalo called Swerve motorsports and apprantly there is a guy who works there with a Yaris.

He was thinking of going Blitz sc so we are gonna talk on Monday. I haven't ruled out a turbo and in fact I am leaning that way more and more.

My plans are shaping up well and I cant wait to feel that first bit of euphoria when my install is done, turn the key, and go for my very first boosted drive (well, in my OWN car at least).

You, sir, are a good guy focus.

If theres anything I can help you with u let me know! Jersey isn't that far at all:D

pimp my yaris

09-27-2010, 04:40 PM

Well I found out today my stock injectors maxed out at 8psi at about 5K rpm. At 5K my wideband started going lean. So now its time for injectors.
This thing is really hauling ass now. I am always playing with the FIC trying to get the best tune. First few days I had a bad hesitation when the FIC started adding fuel. I finally got that worked out today.

fnkngrv

09-27-2010, 04:49 PM

^ awesome

sleey0

09-27-2010, 06:13 PM

pimp my yaris

09-27-2010, 06:25 PM

IS this tuned with the AEM?

Guess it's time to find 1ZZ injectors:headbang:

Yes AEM FIC!

Yoda

09-27-2010, 06:34 PM

Good job. Get it dynoed

sleey0

09-27-2010, 06:39 PM

Well I just picked up some used 1ZZ injectors that were for sale on E-bay. If anyone was thinking about picking them up, TO LATE I got um! New total 939.49

So you maxxed the 1zz injectors?

I thought u said u had stock ones maxxed?:iono:

sleey0

09-27-2010, 06:40 PM

Oh and what kind of whp does your butt dyno tell you are running?

lol

Focus_Sh1ft

09-27-2010, 06:53 PM

Glad that studder is worked out. How's the MAF clamping coming along?

Also, where's that map we talked about? :tongue:

Oh and what kind of whp does your butt dyno tell you are running?

Call me crazy, but the pull feels very samiliar to my Dad's G35 :thumbup:

pimp my yaris

09-27-2010, 07:05 PM

Oh and what kind of whp does your butt dyno tell you are running?

lol

I still have stock injectors. And I talked to my butt after driving to work and he said feels like 180whp :laughabove:

Dj WaRrIoR

09-28-2010, 05:45 AM

I still have stock injectors. And I talked to my butt after driving to work and he said feels like 180whp :laughabove:

to be honest i didn't read almost nothing on this thread but i just wanted to let you know that i did 188whp (forgot torque) at 8psi with t3 .42/.48 stock internals.. walbro 255 fuel pump with STOCK FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR and 315cc injectors and apexi neo.. did a whole lot of ass whooping!!! i have to admit that i did alot of begginer mistakes but i learned and right now i'm rebulding my motor because my piston rings went soft on me but now i'm making some serious changes and going for 250-300 whp!!! woot woot!!! i'll be glad to answer any questions that nobody warned me about when i was in your shoes ;) (not talking about this forum, just tuners, friends, mechanics etc.) only thing holding me back is someone to show me how to install my emanage ultimate :( (already asked in another thread today)

GOOD LUCK!!:burnrubber: