Want to build costom turbo kit. Need advice from boosted guys!

[packetrace]

not quite sure tu understand...

I understand the boost inlet...

The left side of the rail(passenger side) goes to the stock feed line as I will turbo...

The right side of the rail go to the regulator obviously...

Where is the FEED...I dont understand how the fuel can come from the fuel tank if we use the feed line as return line now...

[packetrace]

I got it I think!!

Fuel rail is feeded from the left(passenger), then it passes trought the fuel rail....then in the regulator...and THEN it goes to the stock feed line which is now return (bottom of the reulator)...

Gauge on the right side of the regulator

Black hose iandor vaccum boost

Now....to mke the completely new feed line....i make hose from the fuel rail and the fuel pump ?

[cali yaris]

Yes -- A new fuel line from the pump to the rail if you include the direction of flow, but yeah. My last post in here on this -- we totally jacked the thread. SORRY PIMP

[packetrace]

Just read the wholleee thread!!! lollll

will get my engine next week cant wait to start it :D love YW and MI :D

[cali yaris]

hey what happened to pimp??

[fnkngrv]

hey what happened to pimp??


he has been pretty busy with work and stuff lately.

[pimp my yaris]

Im here. I have almost all the fittings, filter, pump and lines I need. I need just a couple more fittings. Just piecing it all together before tear down. I dont want my car down any longer then necessary.

[packetrace]

Any update :D

[pimp my yaris]

Did some test fitting today. I will need to cut off part of the head casting to clear the -6 fitting. Also the resistor bolted to the head on the left side of the stock fuel rail needs to be moved for clearance.

[pimp my yaris]

On all previous posts I was able to upload pics from my Iphone without resizing them. That is no longer possible. What a pain in the ass. Photobuckt.com moves beyond slow.

[packetrace]

did you used stock spacer ? what injectors you have ?

looks great man!

[packetrace]

what is the model of your fuel regulator ? did it came with fittings male-male or you had to buy some ?

[scioncrew]

AEM Part Number 25-302BK they do not come with fittings. im sure Garm will have them in stock.

[cali yaris]

^ Thanks, we do, and the gauges too.

[packetrace]

Good i will call uou or jeff next week!:)

Do you have them in red the regulator ?

[cali yaris]

I'll check, I know I have black for sure.

[pimp my yaris]

what is the model of your fuel regulator ? did it came with fittings male-male or you had to buy some ?

I am using a Aeromotive regulator and it did not come with any fittings. The stock rail spacers look like they will work good. I am using Scion TC/Camry injectors from a 2AZ-FE engine. For now. Will upgrade to some 550cc denso injectors later.

[pimp my yaris]

More progress. :smile:

[packetrace]

Cooll man thanks for pictures! Inlike the way you place the regulator! Might copy it :$

Post pics if where you run the hose to the tank :)

[pimp my yaris]

daily updates

[cali yaris]

way to go!

[scioncrew]

what dose it look like when you compress it all the way down. make sure it dosent kink.

[packetrace]

post pics of when its compressed :)

where did you ran the 6an new feed line.. ? where can i reach the pump assembly ? under passenger seat ?

[pimp my yaris]

post pics of when its compressed :)

where did you ran the 6an new feed line.. ? where can i reach the pump assembly ? under passenger seat ?

The pump is under the rear seat under a silver piece of sheet metal. I did shorten the line to the pump a little. That pic was not the final assembly. The line will run under the car and tied to the factory line that I am going to use as the return. I will post some more pics tomorrow if it doesn't rain.

[packetrace]

Good thanks!!!:-)

Fun to follow thread like this :-) will make thing easier when i will install mine /)

[packetrace]

wow man....i rmeoved the rear seats(and did not pu them back :D) its BIG this fuel pump assembly!!! i tought I would have some thing that fits in my hand...ITS BIGGG!! ahah...just wanted to share..

[cali yaris]

^ dunno what you mean. The pump is very small

[packetrace]

I meant..nott the pump itself...the cylinder in which it stands...its pretty compare to what i had expected lol

[pimp my yaris]

The fuel system is done and WOW what a difference. I now know the stock regulator was seriously choking off fuel and could not flow enough to handle a turbo yaris above 5 psi. The only reason it was working was because of the larger injectors and the fact that I was increasing the duty cycle to max them out. I went from plus 80% fuel at the high rpm end of my map to -12% at the same spot on my map with the new fuel system. My new regulator adds 1 psi of fuel pressure for every 1 psi of boost. This does most of the tuning for you. You absolutly still need a piggy back though. I took more pics of the system and some pics when I was doing some "HOT LAPS" :biggrin: and tuning.

Also as far as parts used: fuel rail, scion TC injectors, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 1/8 npt fuelpressure guage on regulator, 1 -6an bulk head fitting with nut, 6 straight -6 hose end fittings, one 90 degree -6an hose fitting, 1 -8an straight cut to -6an hose fitting with o-ring, one -8an straight cut to -6an with a 90 deg. bend and o-ring, 25ft of -6an black braided fuel line. I bought the line and almost all the fittings from e-bay and the last fitting from summit racing. That one was hard to find.

[pimp my yaris]

O, I forgot. The regulator and the fuel filter on the bottom of a car I got from a friend. Still need to pay him.

[packetrace]

wow nice!!! thank you for picture!!

so you feed from passenger side...and returns on the driver side to the stock hard line ?

what kind of inline filtrer did you used ?

[pimp my yaris]

The feed and return are zip tied together. Yes I am using the stock hard line for the return. It feeds on the driver side of the fuel rail.

I am attaching a manual boost controller and I am going to turn it up to 15psi and retune.

[cali yaris]

Excellent!

[Yoda]

Did you get a new turbo?

[fnkngrv]

The feed and return are zip tied together. Yes I am using the stock hard line for the return. It feeds on the driver side of the fuel rail.

I am attaching a manual boost controller and I am going to turn it up to 15psi and retune.


You meant 51psi right? :w00t:

[scioncrew]

The feed and return are zip tied together. Yes I am using the stock hard line for the return. It feeds on the driver side of the fuel rail.

I am attaching a manual boost controller and I am going to turn it up to 15psi and retune.


you lost me here?:iono: i hope you dont mean you going to us the boost controler to bring you fuel pressure up to 15psi because thats not going to work..

[cali yaris]

I think he means boost, not fuel pressure.

[scioncrew]

I hope so :)

[fnkngrv]

I think he means boost, not fuel pressure.


pretty sure that is the case and I am curious what he is setting his FP at.

[pimp my yaris]

Fuel pressure is set at 45psi at idle.
And yes I am increasing turbo boost because that is the whole point of getting enough fuel to support it.
I was beyond maxing the stock in tank fuel pressure regulator at 12psi

I am running into a new problem in trying to get to 15psi. It looks like my current .48AR turbine turbo will not flow enough air to maintain 15psi. I am getting to 16psi now, but as rpm,s go up boost is falling off. Time for a new turbo and a new manafold.

This is what Im liking
http://www.ptuning.com/html/Item-Desc.cfm?PartNo=PTP%2DTBM%2D11000&MakeCode=scion&ModelCode=xB&ModelYear=2004%2D2007%20%28Turbo%29&ModelDesc=xB

Plus a tial external wastegate and a .64AR hot side turbo with a new custom 3 inch exhaust.

[fnkngrv]

I am still thinking that you should tune for 51 lbs of boost!

[packetrace]

Hey pimp...can you explain me why everybody puts the regulator AFTER the rail...

[Yoda]

Google

[packetrace]

For future reference:

I’m trying to plumb my stand-alone EFI regulator properly, where do I put the regulator, before or after the fuel rail(s), and what ports do I use?
Unlike a standard or “dead-head” carb regulator, which controls pressure between itself and the carburetor inlet, a bypass regulator creates and controls pressure between itself and the pump. Therefore, the correct EFI regulator location is after the fuel rail(s) whenever possible, promoting the required fuel pressure, flow volume and velocity through the fuel rail and to the injector inlet, at all times. Most Aeromotive EFI regulators have two inlet ports, one on each side, and one bypass port, on the bottom. Either inlet may be used with a single fuel rail engine, both inlets with a dual fuel rail. Any unused inlet ports must be blocked with the appropriate port plug. The ideal flow-path is: out of the fuel pump, into one end of the rail; out the other end of the rail, into the regulator side port(s); out the regulator bottom port, back to the tank at the top. Dual rail applications should employ a Y-block to split the supply line before entering the rails, then individual lines are run from the opposite end of each rail to each inlet port on the regulator.

[cali yaris]

^ Looks to me like you answered your own question.

[packetrace]

Yes :)

[pimp my yaris]

Ditto ^

[Yoda]

Did you use new bearings for your build?

[Scubaru Steve]

the higher a/r will easily add top end and help increase boost, you will lose spool, as in it will take a few more revs to spool the turbo.
id go with a .63.

Fuel pressure is set at 45psi at idle.
And yes I am increasing turbo boost because that is the whole point of getting enough fuel to support it.
I was beyond maxing the stock in tank fuel pressure regulator at 12psi

I am running into a new problem in trying to get to 15psi. It looks like my current .48AR turbine turbo will not flow enough air to maintain 15psi. I am getting to 16psi now, but as rpm,s go up boost is falling off. Time for a new turbo and a new manafold.

This is what Im liking
http://www.ptuning.com/html/Item-Desc.cfm?PartNo=PTP%2DTBM%2D11000&MakeCode=scion&ModelCode=xB&ModelYear=2004%2D2007%20%28Turbo%29&ModelDesc=xB

Plus a tial external wastegate and a .64AR hot side turbo with a new custom 3 inch exhaust.

[pimp my yaris]

Did you use new bearings for your build?

Yes, I bought toyota bearings. One of them came on a slow boat from japan. Could not find one in entire US. Also replaced the rear main seal and two O-rings between the block and upper oil pan. And U will need another two O-rings between the oil pump/front cover and block. Dont forget head gasket, valve cover gasket, intake and exhaust manafold gaskets.

[pimp my yaris]

the higher a/r will easily add top end and help increase boost, you will lose spool, as in it will take a few more revs to spool the turbo.
id go with a .63.

Yes thats the plan. And I definitly need the external wastegate. The internal gate does not move fast enough when cranking up the boost.

[cali yaris]

That's closer to my set up -- you'll love it.

[pimp my yaris]

I am having trouble tuning for above 16psi with my FIC. I believe it is ignition problem. Above 16psi I am getting a nasty missfire between 3500 and 4500 where my boost is getting to 18-19 psi. Still working on it, I havent givin up yet. I will try to retard timing a little more at high boost to resolve this. Any tuners out there run into this? I noticed that tuning with the FIC is getting tough as boost climbs. My AFR's are fluctuating a lot within the same cell on my fuel map.

[Bluevitz-rs]

has anyone else ever gone this far with an FIC? 16psi is starting to get pretty serious.

Or try some simple things like close the gap up a thou or two on the plugs

[cali yaris]

pimp, what gap are you using, and which plugs?

[pimp my yaris]

I am running NGK BKR7E plugs gapped at .020"

[Bluevitz-rs]

Have you tried a bigger gap? .020" is getting pretty small compared to the stock at what, 32 thou? It's possible the spark isn't big enough to ignite the mixture properly

[scioncrew]

I am having trouble tuning for above 16psi with my FIC. I believe it is ignition problem. Above 16psi I am getting a nasty missfire between 3500 and 4500 where my boost is getting to 18-19 psi. Still working on it, I havent givin up yet. I will try to retard timing a little more at high boost to resolve this. Any tuners out there run into this? I noticed that tuning with the FIC is getting tough as boost climbs. My AFR's are fluctuating a lot within the same cell on my fuel map.

you got to stabilize you AFR. give it some more fuel make run 11.0-10.5 AFR then work your way back. you should not be misfiring like that if you have the proper fuel deleavery system in you car.

[fnkngrv]

So Brian raises a good question at least from a curiosity standpoint...how many PSI of boost is the AEM FIC supposedly good for?

[Yoda]

So Brian raises a good question at least from a curiosity standpoint...how many PSI of boost is the AEM FIC supposedly good for?

The on-board map sensor is good for ~22psi.

[fnkngrv]

The on-board map sensor is good for ~22psi.

MAP or MAF?

[Bluevitz-rs]

The AEM has a built in MAP sensor

[packetrace]

Pimp...I thought you were standalone man its crazy a fic at that boost haha looks like it works pretty great for just a piggyback...

you make me double think about going standalone...

[Yoda]

Pimp...I thought you were standalone man its crazy a fic at that boost haha looks like it works pretty great for just a piggyback...

you make me double think about going standalone...

Do not double think go standalone.

[pimp my yaris]

you got to stabilize you AFR. give it some more fuel make run 11.0-10.5 AFR then work your way back. you should not be misfiring like that if you have the proper fuel deleavery system in you car.

I made a mistake in thinking my AFR was fluctucation. It turns out the were fluctuating because of the missfire. When the missfire occurs the afr went rich because of unburned fuel in the exhaust. I made some progress and its running pretty good after retarding timing a bit farther. Its pulling hard on the highway WOW!!:eyebulge: Also Im going to need a new boost guage. Also I seriously need a external wastegate setup. I need to organize a Turbo 5K walk for my car. Gotta raise funds.
I called Ptunning about the turbo manafold I was looking at, and they said they have none in stock and it would take at least a month to make one. I was a little dissapointed. I am holding off on the order for now and rethinking this.

[scioncrew]

:w00t: good to hear you found the problem

[packetrace]

Do not double think go standalone.

are you standalone ?

[packetrace]

I made a mistake in thinking my AFR was fluctucation. It turns out the were fluctuating because of the missfire. When the missfire occurs the afr went rich because of unburned fuel in the exhaust. I made some progress and its running pretty good after retarding timing a bit farther. Its pulling hard on the highway WOW!!:eyebulge: Also Im going to need a new boost guage. Also I seriously need a external wastegate setup. I need to organize a Turbo 5K walk for my car. Gotta raise funds.
I called Ptunning about the turbo manafold I was looking at, and they said they have none in stock and it would take at least a month to make one. I was a little dissapointed. I am holding off on the order for now and rethinking this.

ohhhh niceee man!!!

[Yoda]

are you standalone ?

Nope not yet but once I have the funds most deff

[Yoda]

I looked at the pt mani and just didn't like having my turbo exposed to the open environment. It rains a lot here in Florida. I know Garm has manifolds too did u check with him? What turbo are you runnin now?

[fnkngrv]

The on-board map sensor is good for ~22psi.

Running MAP in the southeast, south, and southwest is much easier with it since its based off of a fuel curve that is programed into the ECU or Piggyback and it does not change. So basically, your fuel map never changes no matter what the air conditions are outside (dense, thin, wet, dry, etc). I don't know enough about MAP setups yet to do much more than sound dangerous, but going off what i have learned so far using your car for a racing application would easily justify going MAP since the car many times isn't a DD for most folks, but in this case it is his DD. He would need a 2 BAR Stainless Steel Sensor Kit which are over 100 bucks and then he would need to modify his piping or even replace a section so it is another investment for sure. IMHO if you are going to make the change and investment to go MAP then you are better off ditching the FIC to go full standalone since you are looking to optimize for higher boost and the FIC just doesn't protect your investment. It seems the FIC is for folks wanting to use low boost which traditionally won't put your engine in much for danger of blowing up compared to medium/high boost. 8-10psi is fun as it is on the roads so I would think that 15-18psi is more giggles for sure when at the wheel so being patient at that point rather than risk further time/money makes more sense. I am not sure what most would consider FI changing from a hobby build to serious is since it is subjective based upon the driver and the vehicle, but to me going over 15psi is getting serious.

[Yoda]

Not sure I understand what this is in reference to. He doesn't need a kit of any kind if he stays below~22psi. The FIC can handle that level just fine.

[fnkngrv]

Not sure I understand what this is in reference to. He doesn't need a kit of any kind if he stays below~22psi. The FIC can handle that level just fine.

Right, but you would be crazy to not have the Inlet Temp Sensor along with it. Sure, it has MAP built right in, but that is a static setting. You configure MAP instead of MAF, but MAP has no way to adjust for air density changes, in-climate weather, etc. The only way for the ability to have "on the fly" adjustment is with the Inlet Sensor being place too. Someone would be forever fiddling with the configurations throughout the year in northern states or Canada because of this. How is the FIC going to know inlet density/temps/humidity without an inlet sensor?

[Yoda]

Running MAP in the southeast, south, and southwest is much easier with it since its based off of a fuel curve that is programed into the ECU or Piggyback and it does not change. So basically, your fuel map never changes no matter what the air conditions are outside (dense, thin, wet, dry, etc). I don't know enough about MAP setups yet to do much more than sound dangerous, but going off what i have learned so far using your car for a racing application would easily justify going MAP since the car many times isn't a DD for most folks, but in this case it is his DD. He would need a 2 BAR Stainless Steel Sensor Kit which are over 100 bucks and then he would need to modify his piping or even replace a section so it is another investment for sure. IMHO if you are going to make the change and investment to go MAP then you are better off ditching the FIC to go full standalone since you are looking to optimize for higher boost and the FIC just doesn't protect your investment. It seems the FIC is for folks wanting to use low boost which traditionally won't put your engine in much for danger of blowing up compared to medium/high boost. 8-10psi is fun as it is on the roads so I would think that 15-18psi is more giggles for sure when at the wheel so being patient at that point rather than risk further time/money makes more sense. I am not sure what most would consider FI changing from a hobby build to serious is since it is subjective based upon the driver and the vehicle, but to me going over 15psi is getting serious.

I know all about the temp difference and if you really have extreme varying weather then sure the sensor is nice to have. But you are implying that some change or investment is needed to use the MAP sensor. I am saying there is no investment needed it comes with the unit. The MAF sensor cant handle the boost that high. Many have tuned up to 20 psi for years with no problem. They have their winter tune and a summer tune. Switch between the two and you are set. Still a standalone unit is much better all round but for what he is using it for, FIC all the way.
Maybe i am misunderstanding something.

[Blown_xa]

I looked at the pt mani and just didn't like having my turbo exposed to the open environment. It rains a lot here in Florida. I know Garm has manifolds too did u check with him? What turbo are you runnin now?

Actually it doesn't have to be exposed, I chose to remove the cowl for ventilation. I put it back on in the fall to keep leaves out. On customers builds I leave it on, some trimming needed.

48451

[Yoda]

That's awesome to know! Do you get to keep your AC lines and would it fit in the Yaris bay. Really like your mani design.

[packetrace]

just awesome!!! what engine management do you normally uses ? piggy back ?

[Blown_xa]

If anyone is interested in the manifold e mail Andrew@ptuning.com

[pimp my yaris]

If anyone is interested in the manifold e mail Andrew@ptuning.com

I called about the manifold he said it would take a month to make one. If U had it in stock I would have bought one. You should keep a couple on the shelf. Im still liking it, mabe for spring. Dont want to swap it out in the cold.

[pimp my yaris]

I recently had a huge loss in power while tuning at 19 psi of boost. I thought it was a clogged converter or muffler. Possibly a boost leak or BOV not closing. That was all wrong, it turns out I had a mass air flow sensor trouble code. I could not see it because my CEL is on all the time because my 02s sensors are disconnected. I cleared the code and the problem is fixed. Back to full power. I may need to adjust my MAF clamp voltage.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Probably an out of range code and it went to default values.

[packetrace]

The ptuning maniold on their website does not look equal lenght ?

[pimp my yaris]

I think its about as close as you can get woth the space under the hood. I have seen one other but it required relocating the battery. And was over 2000$. I like the turbo above the valve cover. Looks cool and will make the exhaust much straighter and easier to fabricate.

[packetrace]

welll Parmas has build an equal lenght one...he is selling it...i have asked if he wants to sell it alone with down pipe and not with whole piping....

TBR makes one which might be the one your talking about...:)

[cali yaris]

The one Parmas had came with the motor from Canada -- he didn't build it, as I recall.

[Radou]

i think is an engine from turbinetech here !

[packetrace]

Yes it is :) they want 1000$ for an equal lenght haha

[packetrace]

Might pick one from ptuning or try to copy it of parmas dont want to sell his equal lenght alone

[pimp my yaris]

Just posting an update. I have sorted my ignition issues by adjusting my timing map. My car has been running very strong at 17psi. Making more power then ever before. I continue to tweek and fiddle with the FIC. Sometimes adjustments work and sometimes they dont. I can say it is getting hard to tune on the street. Sometimes I wish I had a dyno. Trying to find a road to wind out forth gear is a little risky with traffic and the police.
Traction is a real problem. With cold weather their is none until third gear. Even third gear is starting to break loose somtimes. And I have major torque steer. Mabe a limited slip would help.
My light piston slap has not caused any issues with reliability. I just finished a trip to Tennessee with my bike on the trailer behind my car. It is pretty loud when cold but its taking some hard driving.
I want to get a dyno run in the next few months and see what she puts out? I also want to pick up a welder and build a quality exhaust. Also next summer I would like to get a new turbo manafold and slightly larger turbo with a external wastegate.

[cali yaris]

^ Way to go!

LSD will help a LOT with your torque steer, I have very little of that on my car. Tires may be helping, I don't know, I run Toyo R888's, very sticky tires.

[fnkngrv]

Glad to hear all is going well for the most part. I am very glad that I went with an external WG...just makes life a lot easier as well as being more reliable in winter conditions. My daughter actually had a friend over from New Brunswick during the Turkey Day weekend and he has a boosted Golf that had an internal WG that experienced the same issue I did with the actuator sleeve arm getting gummed 2 winters ago. He got lucky though because his stuck closed rather than open so no damage, just shitty performance.

[kou]

Glad to hear all is going well for the most part. I am very glad that I went with an external WG...just makes life a lot easier as well as being more reliable in winter conditions. My daughter actually had a friend over from New Brunswick during the Turkey Day weekend and he has a boosted Golf that had an internal WG that experienced the same issue I did with the actuator sleeve arm getting gummed 2 winters ago. He got lucky though because his stuck closed rather than open so no damage, just shitty performance.

I think you got that backwards, if stuck closed it would build up to much boost stuck open it would not build any boost.

[cali yaris]

^ Correct.

[Golddeenoh]

as long as your piston skirts are not broken off, and you have good sealing rings the slap will always go away once the engine warms up and the pistons expand to fit the cylinders. I would suggest some way of warming up the engine before driving to prevent possible damage to the cylinder walls and pistons.

BUT, I am glad to hear(well read) that the set up is doing good and is feeling strong, and i look forward to reading your dyno results. keep up the fun/good work.

[cali yaris]

I would suggest some way of warming up the engine before driving to prevent possible damage to the cylinder walls and pistons.

LOL, like sitting in the car and starting it? :laugh:

[Golddeenoh]

that is what i do, wait until the O2 sensor is warmed up enough to start working (130 degrees Fahrenheit) then easy down the road a few miles, wait at a light, easy down the road toward the interstate, get on the interstate, and by then i'm about 175 ish, so i can give it some gas to merge onto the interstate. and laugh as i hear the loud roar as my exhaust goes through the Megan Racing header, and out the DC Sports Muffler. oh the sound of a little 1.5L sounding like a much bigger car. just kind of make me smile, now if only I had a turbo as well.

[pimp my yaris]

Well for a long time now I have been trying to tune my FIC for 20psi. I have never been able to get it quite right. Because of the difference in fueling from the factory computer at say 60% throttle opening at 10 psi compared to 100% throttle opening at 10psi. If tuning for 100% throttle you will be very lean at 60% throttle. If tuning for 60% you will be pig rich at 100%. I have tried to find a happy balance but its just not possible. I have turned the boost down to the 12-13psi range. This is a little bit more managable. To get the full potential of this built motor it will need a stand alone. Its just more then I want to spend at the moment.
Just curious how does the boomslang hook up to the AEM EMS and the factory computer at the same time. I now the power steering still needs to hooked to the factory computer. Also can I still use my A/C. Anyone know?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Oh man, you must be itching to get a standalone knowing you have a built motor you can barely make use of :frown:

I can't speak for how the boomslang would work in that regard. I can't imagine they'd completely disregard usage of the stock ECU because you would be losing a huge amount of functionality.

This may not be the best example because the wiring is custom but - in my tC, both the Motec ecu and stock ecu are used. The Motec really only takes control over what's necessary to manage the engine. It also has configurable inputs for a huge slew of things. I'd imagine any decent standalone would have the same.

As for A/C - I believe the way I have it handled is you flip a switch (NOT the oem one), the Motec sees this as an "a/c request" then powers a relay which is connected directly to the a/c clutch. The stock ecu is completely bypassed.

[fnkngrv]

I think you got that backwards, if stuck closed it would build up to much boost stuck open it would not build any boost.

Oh yeah.... haha :drinking:

[fnkngrv]

Just curious how does the boomslang hook up to the AEM EMS and the factory computer at the same time. I now the power steering still needs to hooked to the factory computer. Also can I still use my A/C. Anyone know?


I am wondering this as well. I REALLY want to stay away from AEM again, but may end up having to go that route. I know there are plenty of folks that swear by them, but I have had too many issues to not be leery with their products. So I would like to know whether or not I would still be able to use my Bslang or if I will have to pick up a new harness also. :confused:

[fnkngrv]

Well for a long time now I have been trying to tune my FIC for 20psi. I have never been able to get it quite right.

During our phone conversations I was afraid of those issues you are seeing with the FIC just not being able to cut it. To me the FIC is really just a hobby box with how intelligent and restrictive today's ECUs are from Toyota. Best to just bite the bullet and go full standalone otherwise you are just wasting your money every time you start your car rolling down the pavement. :thumbsup:

[cali yaris]

The FI/C is perfectly fine up to a point. When you have to mess with more parameters (like timing) to support more boost, you need a better box.

The Boomslang for the FIC will be completely different than the one for the EMS, pretty sure about that.

[fnkngrv]

The Boomslang for the FIC will be completely different than the one for the EMS, pretty sure about that.

That is what I was afraid of :thumbdown: Makes sense, but really sucks. Money down the drain.

[cali yaris]

I can't imagine the FIC end being the same as the EMS end. The Toyota end is probably the same.

It's not a waste if you sell the harness to an FIC owner, or sell it as a package with the FIC. It costs money to build a race car. :rolleyes:

[pimp my yaris]

Hi guys I just wanted to say this will be my last entry on Yaris World. I had a great time on this forum and chated with some great people and got some great info. I sold my turbo Yaris to carmax in Schaumburg. They auctioned it off and Ive been told from another YW member that it has turned up 4 sale in merriville In. :cry::iono::bellyroll::eyebulge::drinking:
I used the money as a down payment on a 2002 Kenne Bell supercharged C5 Corvette. With 26K miles. I love it. I also loved the Yaris and it was a great car. It did more then it was ever designed to do. With new pistons and rods with a turbo it cruised to Quebec Canada and Miami several times with two motorcycles in tow. With 12-14 pounds of boost with no problems and never burning oil. Good luck to the next owner. I hope they put a standalone ECU and get the most out of that built motor.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/nairb95yahoocom/IMG_20130822_171242_045_zps89e0dd74.jpg
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/nairb95yahoocom/IMG_20130822_171339_647_zpsf14af98e.jpg
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/nairb95yahoocom/IMG_20130822_171359_769_zps6222093a.jpg
:evil:

[pimp my yaris]

If you want to check out my old ride and the fastest Yaris I have ever drivin.
http://www.jabaay.com/2009-Toyota-Yaris-S-TRD-Turbo-Lansing-Illinois-60438/4665990

[Bluevitz-rs]

Hahaha some guy on here is looking to buy it!!! No one knew who built it or how it was done. Now we have the owner! Haha. Small world.

[pimp my yaris]

If you want to check out my old ride and the fastest Yaris I have ever drivin.
http://www.jabaay.com/2009-Toyota-Yaris-S-TRD-Turbo-Lansing-Illinois-60438/4665990

http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/nairb95yahoocom/DSCI0002.jpg

http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/nairb95yahoocom/AC39BC2A-798E-46F5-8374-D6503130FA3D-4017-000006A269074FCA.jpg

http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/nairb95yahoocom/Yaris%20Turbo/IMG_0513.jpg

[SAV912]

Cool deal. This is what I was looking for. A turbo Yaris is something unique enough that I figured somebody on YW HAD to have owned it or at least knew of it. :biggrin:

Gotta say, though, can't blame you an ounce for turning it in for the Corvette. That thing must be a beast. :drinking:

-C

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Nice vet! Good luck with everything, you'll be greatly missed.