2ZR Turbo Yaris

[Maritime]

Nice work as always. so close to the day it is fully set free to roar down the road.

[06YarisRS]

Nice work as always. so close to the day it is fully set free to roar down the road.

Thanks! Yup, getting close. Getting excited for sure. :clap:

[06YarisRS]

Gauge Pod Test Fit

A bit of a spoiler. I won't have pics until tomorrow, but, the good news is... the pillar is a great fit. Is it 100% perfect? No, but it's very acceptable. The contours are very good and the fit should be fairly seamless. I will need to figure out a method of attachment as there are no pins. I think I'll use long screws, drill a couple holes in the steel pillar and pull the gauge pod cover tight. The way it's designed, I can hide the screws really well just under the top and bottom pod holes. The screws will be invisible from the driver's and passenger's positions. I plan to spray the pillar with a flat or satin clear coat. Right now, although the color is a close match, the pod is way too shiny, whereas the dash has more of a matte finish.

Pics tomorrow, I promise. :biggrin:

[06YarisRS]

Gauge mounting...turning point

I am heavily leaning toward not using the A-pillar gauge pod. One things I've always appreciated about the Yaris is it excellent visibility from the driver's seat. The gauge pod would look amazing in the car, without a doubt, but I just can't spare any visibility. It is not overly intrusive, but I could see the larger blind spot potentially causing a problem. I also like to drive with my seat all the way back. If I push the seat forward, visibility is fine. Again, a compromise I don't think I'm willing to make at this point. It's a bit of a shame, because with a few mods to the pillar and a little matte clear on it, it would look pretty darn good. For a cheap attempt at a gauge pod, they did a pretty good job fitment-wise.

So, some pics:

Pod test fit in my '08...

https://i.imgur.com/PH7k2eY.jpg

My alternative plan. I just spent a couple of hours shaping the gauge 'adapters' to fit the curve of the glove box. This was tedious and it turned out pretty good, but not perfect. I plan to drill 3 holes a bit smaller than the gauges and then use some kind of small saw or my dremel and sanding disk to round out he holes to size. I plan to do this on the car as I don't feel like taking the entire dashboard off. I happen to have have a spare dash - the one that originally came with my '06, so I used its driver's side glove box to shape the gauge adapters. I'll epoxy the gauge adapters to the dash from the inside.

Opinions sought... I can either line the gauges up in a straight row of follow the curve of the steering column bezel. The problem with the latter is that the gauge face angles would be off. so, it's probably best to keep them in a straight line.

Gauges in line:

https://i.imgur.com/OW1GzJi.jpg?1

Gauges following steering column bezel (well, sort of):

https://i.imgur.com/sW9UdaW.jpg?1


Other pics:

https://i.imgur.com/QaXdVMB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4QGnaHX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DXJ9z2k.jpg

[06YarisRS]

A bit of progress on the gauges this evening...

I actually tired the gauges flush and liked it better, except that they don't sit level and you can notice this from different angles. I think I'll paint the gauge trim rings black. The silver is a bit stark and black would go better with the interior. The gauges have film over the glass (plastic?) and I'll remove them when they are all installed. Once nice thing I discovered is if I modify the hardware, I won't have to epoxy the gauge adapters to the glove box.

https://i.imgur.com/2gBv7Vf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OwsxEAp.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/yIzBP2j.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bVXbNHB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OQgPZSQ.jpg

All three gauges in, but not wired yet

I decided to follow the contour of the streering column cover and I'm glad I did. For one, it looks better and visibillity of all gauges is perfect from my seating position. I think they look great, but if the silver rings are easy to get off, I might paint them black.

https://i.imgur.com/gI4tioZ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iutKDb7.jpg

[06YarisRS]

F/IC Mounting and Wiring Started

I mounted the F/IC flat on the plastic tray behind the glove box by laying down a couple foam strips (used on old 6" compounding pad), drilled holes and ziptied it in. It's solidly mounted and no rattles.

https://i.imgur.com/MqhVDjw.jpg

Started wiring the F/IC. I just had a bit of time, so only got done the crankshaft sensor/F/IC/ECU connections. I hope to have all the wiring done in the next day or two. I'm now off for the summer, but have two kiddies to watch, so time is a bit limited.

https://i.imgur.com/SHsdlmE.jpg

[06YarisRS]

F/IC fuel injectors wired

Well, three of them anyway. It looks messy now, but it will be all tidied up, taped and tucked back into the plastic ECU wire retaining clip.

https://i.imgur.com/YxkLgqw.jpg

[ern-diz]

This is the part you've been somewhat dreading, eh?

[06YarisRS]

This is the part you've been somewhat dreading, eh?

It is somewhat, ern-diz. I'll be cringing as I reconnect the negative battery terminal. Lol. I could never get a definitive commitment from anyone that my wiring diagrams are correct. I am hoping that if there are no sparks and a no start scenario, that the ECU will at least set a code to point me in the right direction.

I finished the fuel injectors, power ground and the MAF wiring. Just TPS, signal ground and 12V power left to connect. Hoping for a start tomorrow. Wish me luck lol!

[06YarisRS]

Current state of wiring

So far I have hooked up: injectors, MAF, crank, +12V power, and 2 grounds. I am at a standstill until I figure out where to find a signal ground, as I can't figure it out from the diagrams. I'm also struggling with the the TPS+ connection.

Here is a pic of the current state. The wire in loom running across the top is the +12V switched power source which comes from the smaller ECU connector. The bunch of wires to the left will all bundle up nicely and fit into the ECU plastic connector cover. Everything will be enclosed in a large piece of conduit and taped really well. It should look completely factory when I'm done.

I have only 4 wires remaining to be hooked up: TPS+, 021+, 022+ and signal ground.

https://i.imgur.com/13P9YIU.jpg

Next post will be an appeal for help from anyone familiar with Toyota wiring diagrams. I have an email in to AEM, but they don't want to make specific connection suggestions. I'll try the turbokits guys, and then maybe seek out an automotive wiring forum.

[06YarisRS]

Seeking wiring suggestions

As mentioned, I'm struggling with the last few wires for the F/IC install. I can't find anything online that shows a specific Toyota signal ground symbol. I'm also not sure which wire from the ECU to hook to the F/IC TPS+ wire. Please see diagrams below and if you know the answer(s), please shout them out. :clap:

Grounds?

https://i.imgur.com/cIDsGTT.jpg

Here is one of the pics/questions I sent to AEM.

https://i.imgur.com/WCItIjt.jpg


EDIT: I found this site which leads me to believe that I should use the Yellow VTA wire. I'm open to interpretations.

http://www.tsienna.net/throttle_pedal_position_sensor_switch_quot_a_quot_-542.html

[06YarisRS]

Temp guages bench test

I'm liking these gauges, though I wonder how long they will last. I'll be replacing much of the wire with true 18 AWG and soldering and heat shrinking all connections. Wire will all run through taped up conduit and attached along its length with zipties.

The gauges look much, much better in person than these pics depict. The colors are much brighter and deeper in person. Should look amazing in the car. The blue color is triggered by the headlight switch, so they run blue at night and white during the day.

As for accuracy, the two gauges climb at very slightly different rates but usually stop at the same position. I used two candy thermometers - which were close to each other, but not perfect. I averaged the candy thermometer readings and used that to compare to the gauges and the readings were very close. My best guess would be 3 - 4 degress different than the candy thermometer average. Not a scientific approach, but the best I can do given what I have. I'd like to test the oil pressure gauge, but that would take to much frigging to connect to my compressor to test that.

Kudos to Prosport for at least having consistency in their gauges and sensors. I had a couple Autometer (mid range quality) temp dial gauges years back and they were off quite a bit more from each other than these gauges are.

https://i.imgur.com/Y3d82id.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8xJCYHD.jpg

[CrankyOldMan]

TPS usually means Throttle Position Sensor. In a mechanically connected throttle, there is a rheostat (dimmer) connected to the shaft of the throttle valve so that other systems know what position the valve is in. In drive-by-wire systems (which almost all modern vehicles are) the position is sent by a Hall-effect sensor, not a rheostat. I'm having a hard time finding if the AEM can use that as an input.

Here's a simple diagram from a Corolla repair manual that uses a rheostat: http://www.tcorolla.net/circuit_description-558.html

Here's a very detailed technical report that discusses the connector and what the wires are on the 2ZR (or equivalent) ECU: https://web.archive.org/web/20140727010643/https://pressroom.toyota.com/article_download.cfm?article_id=3597

Here's a technical writeup from an unintended acceleration investigation that uses different naming conventions: http://www.safetyresearch.net/Library/Preliminary_Report022110.pdf

Bottom line is, I don't know how to connect a Hall-effect sensor to an AEM EMS. My google-fu isn't turning up any obvious answers either. Hrm.

[CrankyOldMan]

Looking at the link you posted, the 0-5V signals should be your TPS. VTA1 is the one that you want (VTA2 will be offset by a certain amount and will likely cause problems).

[CrankyOldMan]

For posterity, here's what the pins are:

M+ / M- are the servo control signals. It's the same thing that you use on RC vehicle servos--Pulse Width Modulation (PWM)--to command the servo to a specific position. It's shielded to prevent electrical interference with the signal.
VCTA is the DC power supply to the circuit
ETA is the DC ground/common
VTA1 is the throttle position feedback, 0-5 VDC. 0 is closed, 5 is WOT.
VTA2 is the monitor signal for VTA1, which allows the ECU to detect a failed or faulty signal from VTA.

[06YarisRS]

Sam. Thank you!!!! You are de man!

I'll have a read of what you linked.

I have a very big favour to ask if you're up for it. Could you endeavour to answer two questions for me if I were to send you my engine control wiring diagram?


1) I have attached the F/IC "switched 12V power to pin 1 (+B2) in ECU small connector A21. This traces back to the EFI relay. This is what I was advised to do, but no explicit directions were given other than take it off the EFI relay. Is this in fact a switched power source, or is this black wire always hot?

2) Does the triangle symbol leading to what looks like earth ground in the Toyota wiring diagrams mean it's a "signal ground"?

Thanks!

EDIT: In re-reading your post, I see that ETA is DC ground common. Is this a signal ground and could I attach the F/IC signal ground to ETA (Pin 91 on C19)? Also, above I reference (+B2) in connector C19, I meant connector A21.

Edit 2: I'll be speaking to my tuner today and asking him of I need the TPS hooked up at all as it may be that the car's ECU can handle that and the F/IC doesn't need to be involved.

[06YarisRS]

Plug Gapping

The plugs need to be gapped down from .044" to .028".

Removing coil packs

https://i.imgur.com/2FdyDNW.jpg

Removing plugs

https://i.imgur.com/xYG7qdo.jpg

Gapping plugs

https://i.imgur.com/99wc7es.jpg

Torquing to 20nm (177 in/lbs, 14.75 ft/lbs)

https://i.imgur.com/nTGsP9L.jpg

[CrankyOldMan]

I'll have to pull up the full EWD before I can solidly comment on the switched DC power, but that sounds reasonable.

Short answer, yes the triangle is ground.

Long answer is more complicated. You don't have to read this stuff, just some general theory and why there are different symbols.

The term "ground" is rather loose and fluid and causes no end of confusion--even to myself. The "E" in all of those connections probably refers to "earth", i.e. the planet, which is the standard zero reference for most voltage measurements. But in the case of your car, it's too insulated by the tires to be able to use that, so instead we use the negative terminal of the battery as zero. Connections direct to the Earth normally use the three shrinking lines. A local ground reference or "common" connection normally uses the downward triangle to differentiate it and in some cases may not be connected to the earth ground. There's also a "chassis" ground symbol that looks like a 3-tined rake. They are frequently used arbitrarily or will have different meanings in different international standards, leading to lots of confusion if you don't understand what the original intent was or what standard (if any!) it was drawn to.

If you get really technical, everything that conducts electricity has some resistance--even gold plated contacts and super pure copper wires. Good old Ohm figured out the relationship between resistance, voltage and current and his Law tells us that there is a voltage difference between any two points in a circuit that have resistance between them and a current flowing from one to the other. Generally speaking, anything connected directly to the battery with zero resistance is also at zero volts. Ideally you would be able to directly connect all of the ground wires to the battery terminal in a "star" configuration to minimize any voltage offsets. You can see in some wiring diagrams that multiple wires converge at a connection to ground, which is normally on the chassis. The wires and chassis all have some (very small) resistance in them, which creates a (very small) voltage difference between the ends of the wires or between the attachment point of the local ground and the nearest big wire on the negative terminal. That small bit of offset usually doesn't impact anything because it's effectively zero. If you have to take a very accurate measurement on that circuit, you should measure from the local ground point, not the battery. In the case of electrical signals or data communication, you need that reference point to be consistent and electrically "quiet". If you use a ground node near your injectors or the voltage regulator on your alternator you can inject lots of unwanted spikes or noise into your ground reference, messing up the relative voltage between that point and the supply/battery.

So the trick here is that you want as many of the ground references for the AEM and ECU to be as close as possible to minimize noise or offsets. In other words, choose wisely where you connect those wires.

Case in point: my horn doesn't work. The horn switch is fine, the relay is fine, the fuse isn't blown, and there's 12V at the positive terminal when the horn is pressed. It doesn't work because there is too much resistance or poor continuity between the horn's internal ground connection and the chassis. There's corrosion on the bolt threads between the horn and the battery as a result of taking the front bumper apart a few times and living in a state that salts their roads. My next step in fixing it will be to run a new ground wire from the nearest ground point to the horn itself and bypass the bad connections in between. If that doesn't work then I will run it to the battery directly. There's no risk of it causing a dangerous short though because the battery is on the other side of the relay contacts and there's a 10A fuse in that circuit as well. Some cars use the opposite method and put the horn on the battery side of the circuit and connect it to ground with the relay. That means the horn input is always "hot" and has the potential for a short to ground before the contacts, resulting in a horn that won't stop honking unless you pull the fuse or relay.

[06YarisRS]

I'll have to pull up the full EWD before I can solidly comment on the switched DC power, but that sounds reasonable.

Short answer, yes the triangle is ground.

Long answer is more complicated. You don't have to read this stuff, just some general theory and why there are different symbols.

The term "ground" is rather loose and fluid and causes no end of confusion--even to myself. The "E" in all of those connections probably refers to "earth", i.e. the planet, which is the standard zero reference for most voltage measurements. But in the case of your car, it's too insulated by the tires to be able to use that, so instead we use the negative terminal of the battery as zero. Connections direct to the Earth normally use the three shrinking lines. A local ground reference or "common" connection normally uses the downward triangle to differentiate it and in some cases may not be connected to the earth ground. There's also a "chassis" ground symbol that looks like a 3-tined rake. They are frequently used arbitrarily or will have different meanings in different international standards, leading to lots of confusion if you don't understand what the original intent was or what standard (if any!) it was drawn to.

If you get really technical, everything that conducts electricity has some resistance--even gold plated contacts and super pure copper wires. Good old Ohm figured out the relationship between resistance, voltage and current and his Law tells us that there is a voltage difference between any two points in a circuit that have resistance between them and a current flowing from one to the other. Generally speaking, anything connected directly to the battery with zero resistance is also at zero volts. Ideally you would be able to directly connect all of the ground wires to the battery terminal in a "star" configuration to minimize any voltage offsets. You can see in some wiring diagrams that multiple wires converge at a connection to ground, which is normally on the chassis. The wires and chassis all have some (very small) resistance in them, which creates a (very small) voltage difference between the ends of the wires or between the attachment point of the local ground and the nearest big wire on the negative terminal. That small bit of offset usually doesn't impact anything because it's effectively zero. If you have to take a very accurate measurement on that circuit, you should measure from the local ground point, not the battery. In the case of electrical signals or data communication, you need that reference point to be consistent and electrically "quiet". If you use a ground node near your injectors or the voltage regulator on your alternator you can inject lots of unwanted spikes or noise into your ground reference, messing up the relative voltage between that point and the supply/battery.

So the trick here is that you want as many of the ground references for the AEM and ECU to be as close as possible to minimize noise or offsets. In other words, choose wisely where you connect those wires.

Case in point: my horn doesn't work. The horn switch is fine, the relay is fine, the fuse isn't blown, and there's 12V at the positive terminal when the horn is pressed. It doesn't work because there is too much resistance or poor continuity between the horn's internal ground connection and the chassis. There's corrosion on the bolt threads between the horn and the battery as a result of taking the front bumper apart a few times and living in a state that salts their roads. My next step in fixing it will be to run a new ground wire from the nearest ground point to the horn itself and bypass the bad connections in between. If that doesn't work then I will run it to the battery directly. There's no risk of it causing a dangerous short though because the battery is on the other side of the relay contacts and there's a 10A fuse in that circuit as well. Some cars use the opposite method and put the horn on the battery side of the circuit and connect it to ground with the relay. That means the horn input is always "hot" and has the potential for a short to ground before the contacts, resulting in a horn that won't stop honking unless you pull the fuse or relay.

Wow! Thanks Sam! If I'm understanding correctly, then grounding the "signal ground" from the F/IC at the battery would be ideal. However, would that long a run (probably about 3.5') pick up interference and cause faulty voltage readings? I could run the "signal ground" to the battery. I have tons of wire and conduit. Thoughts?

I have the Scion xD engine control diagrams if you don't. I'd be happy to send that to you if you wanted to let me know if my switched power is actually switched. :smile:

Thanks again!

[CrankyOldMan]

Wow! Thanks Sam! If I'm understanding correctly, then grounding the "signal ground" from the F/IC at the battery would be ideal. However, would that long a run (probably about 3.5') pick up interference and cause faulty voltage readings? I could run the "signal ground" to the battery. I have tons of wire and conduit. Thoughts?

I have the Scion xD engine control diagrams if you don't. I'd be happy to send that to you if you wanted to let me know if my switched power is actually switched. :smile:

Thanks again!

In a perfect world, yes, but only if everything else in the vehicle was able to do that. There's probably a closer ground that's used by the ECU. You'd want to try and use that instead since you're connecting to that part of the electrical system. The other thing you risk doing by running a separate conductor back to the battery is called a ground loop. Basically you're making a new path for electrons to flow between the two ground reference points and causing one of them to be above zero. Here's an article (https://www.w8ji.com/ground_loops.htm) with some examples of automotive grounds.

I should have a copy at home but might not have time to review it tonight.

[CrankyOldMan]

Ok, looking at the wiring diagram now. Yes, pin 1 on A21 (B+) is directly switched by the EFI relay.

Side note--I really hope those aren't iridium plugs. Those type aren't supposed to be adjusted.

[06YarisRS]

In a perfect world, yes, but only if everything else in the vehicle was able to do that. There's probably a closer ground that's used by the ECU. You'd want to try and use that instead since you're connecting to that part of the electrical system. The other thing you risk doing by running a separate conductor back to the battery is called a ground loop. Basically you're making a new path for electrons to flow between the two ground reference points and causing one of them to be above zero. Here's an article (https://www.w8ji.com/ground_loops.htm) with some examples of automotive grounds.

I should have a copy at home but might not have time to review it tonight.

Ah, yes, ground loop. I am a bit familiar with that having installed a few of my own car stereos.

I did get a hint from the AEM guys. They feel that one of the wires on the TPS is a signal ground. They also said that I do not need to hook up the two 02 sensors and suggested that the most simple setups seem to be the least problematic and most stable.

I also sent my questions, along with diagrams to the turbokits.com guys and Jesse, the lead tech, is sending them to the guys that make the Plug and Play harnesses. So, hopefully I will have definitive answers soon. If you do get a chance to review your diagrams, I'd be thankful, but only if it's not, in any way, an inconvenience for you. I really appreciate the thoughtful and informative responses that you've given so far.

[06YarisRS]

Securing of 3" intake and oil pan sensor install

I need one more 3" clamp, but my intake is now secure. I had to add some rubber padding between the head and piping which I held on with clamps. There should be no rubbing/chaffing now. It was a challenge due to space constraints. Right now I have the 45 coupler supported with pipe strapping. I will readdress this by rigging up a support from the transmission housing. There are a few available bolt holes to attach a custom support. I just have to have the car driveable for my exhaust appointment which is coming right up.

https://i.imgur.com/ez6Wiri.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZAZrMsd.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Ok, looking at the wiring diagram now. Yes, pin 1 on A21 (B+) is directly switched by the EFI relay.

Side note--I really hope those aren't iridium plugs. Those type aren't supposed to be adjusted.

Don't know how I missed this. Thanks very much, Sam, for the confirmation on the switched power supply.

I wasn't aware that the Iriduim plugs shouldn't be gapped. I assumed that turbokits would have taken that into consideration when designing the kit.

I found this video and he does refer to gapping iridium plugs, but I will check with the turbokits guys. Thanks for the heads-up!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJBG2r1a5qg

[06YarisRS]

Just got my remaining proposed wire placements confirmed. I had the connections right, but was missing the signal ground. Thanks to Jesse at turbokits.com. It appears that I only have 3 left wires to connect and a startup is imminent. Getting excited...and nervous. Unfortunately, I'll have to wait until Sunday due to prior committments. Fingers crossed that it starts as my exhaust appointment is at 8:00 am on Monday. :eek:

[06YarisRS]

Updates...

After being away for a week at our son's hockey camp in PEI, I got a couple of hours in the garage tonight. To add excitement to our trip, our van suffered a failed wheel bearing - well it got quite noisy. Not having my tools or an adequate way to support the massively heavy van, I had to take it to a garage. They had to use a BFH to remove the rotor, destroying it. Then, they had to literally cut the wheel bearing off with the torches. In the process, they trashed my axle and melted my speed sensor, so a new axle was also needed. I told them to forget about the ABS sensor as I'd get one from rockauto at a fraction of the cost and install it myself. I was there for most of the work and it was legitimately a very tough job and they did try all the appropriate methods. The van had to stay over night and was worked on for at least 6 hours. They charged my 2.5 hours labour. An honest outfit, I'd say. Enough about that...on to the car...

Tomorrow is the 'big day' during which, I reconnect my battery cable, hope to god there are no sparks, load the F/IC basemap and pray that the car will run. I have an appointment on Monday for my exhaust work. In anticipation of tomorrow's start attempt, I filled the car with Pennzoil Platinum 5W30. I'll probably go with 0W20 or 5W20 next time after reading Trevor's posts about oil.

Tonight's efforts:

Installed the MAP vacuum hose for the F/IC. After tapping into the vacuum lines, I ziptied the hose along the engine harness and through the firewall to the F/IC.

https://i.imgur.com/f9YjSfT.jpg

Here is a pic of the engine bay in its current state without the engine cover on. In the upper left corner, you can see the F/IC to ECU wiring, which I completed tonight. The connections I made this evening were for: signal ground, TPS and AFR (B1S1). All of these connections were taps and not intercepts.

https://i.imgur.com/TdcMHx8.jpg

With engine cover on.

https://i.imgur.com/FuKq25Y.jpg

Here is a pic of the (if I remember correctly) TPS connection. I had to add about 2" of wire to ensure enough slack to plug the large ECU plug (C19) back into the ECU. These connections should never fail as they are splayed open, fluxed, interwoven, then twisted, soldered really well, tug-tested and then heatshrinked. Nice to see the goo oozing out of the ends of the heatshrink. Everything will also be taped, run in conduit and taped again.

https://i.imgur.com/BrBtsg0.jpg

I found a great use for my little bits of leftover heatshrink. Many of the wires that I passed through the firewall I subsequently found out I didn't need afterall. So I capped them with bits of heatshrink, pinched then ends when still hot and they welded shut on the ends. I'll tuck these back into the harness before conduit and taping.

https://i.imgur.com/6H64zAm.jpg

When I was away, I picked up a 3" ID x 2.5" OD coupler for my exhaust. Yes, I will be going with 2.5" piping back to my Megan axleback. Should breathe well.

https://i.imgur.com/J6Ymz9i.jpg

Finally, I installed the second temp sensor for the Prosport gauges. If I have time tomorrow after my start and drive attempts, I'll do the gauge wiring and the final mounting of the gauges. The oil pressure gauge may have to wait a few days as I'm rigging up a remote mounting solution for the sensor - for two reasons: 1) it's bulky and likely heavy when filled with oil and I don't want that cantilevered out on the brass fittings at the oil port, and 2) apparently constant engine vibrations shorten the life of these sensors, so mounting it to the frame somewhere should be better. I learned that I can pick up a cheap grease gun hose and because it has 1/8" NPT fittings on both ends, serves as a great hose for the remote mount. Plus, it's rated for 3000 psi or something crazy. Apparently it can easily handle hot oil from the forums I've read and many people are using these successfully with no documented failures.

Trans temp sensor.

https://i.imgur.com/RTAsHby.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Up and Running

I had a few jobs to complete today in prep for my exhaust appointment tomorrow. In the same building is an autoglass business, so the car will roll from one bay to the other.

I had to relocate the air temp sensor as when I went to put the front back on the car, the spot that it normally occupied was filled with intercooler piping. I managed to get it in the airflow, just in the upper opening as opposed to the lower.

It was pretty scary hooking up the battery and turning the ignition. But, everything went well. The car runs well, but occasionally stumbles and regains its rpm. I did have a scary few moments when I thought I'd corrupted the map as I adjusted the fuel injector size and the car stalled and wouldn't start again. I reloaded the basemap and things corrected themselves. Some fine tuning is definitely needed as my fuel trims are still a little whacky, but I'm sure these will be addressed in the tune. I went for a couple short drives and although I tried to stay out of boost, I may have slightly entered it. The torque is simply amazing and I've only revved up to about 3500. The car pulls strongly in the low rpms and I was barely touching the throttle. I will keep things calm until my tune which I'm hoping will be next week.

https://i.imgur.com/DXPOwnE.jpg

ECU wiring done

https://i.imgur.com/fuJICSR.jpg


Front and wiper tray back on

https://i.imgur.com/svF9D38.jpg

Hood on

https://i.imgur.com/whfyisJ.jpg

[tmontague]

Awesome, just awesome!

[NYC-SE]

Woo-hoo! Congrats.

[ern-diz]

Awesome, just awesome!

Woo-hoo! Congrats.

+1,000,000 :clap:

[heeroyuy01195]

Congrats! Glad it's up and running!

[06YarisRS]

Thanks guys! Exciting times! Got the exhaust done today and will post pics in a bit. The exhaust work is not the most beautiful but is 2.5" and should flow well. The most restrictive point in the system is probably actually the Megan axleback that appears to be 2.25". Exhaust sounds great and I won't need a resonator afterall as I thought I might, though I'll decide after some highway driving.

I do have one MAF code to sort and the rear 02 code but it will be remedied with a defouler. The sensor is actually just hanging out under the car now as I have to extend the wires to go around to the opposite side. Car drives great except for the occasional stumbling at idle but hopefully the tune will help that. Staying out of boost for now. No leaks - big bonus. Haha.

Hoping to hook up my gauges tomorrow but coolant temps are great. I did some testing yesterday and determined that the rad fan comes on around 203F and man it's effective. Temps drop like a rock as soon as it kicks in and that was in my hot garage. This combined with what I've read and Trevor's comments and I'm more optimistic about my cooling system handling the turbo. Maybe the fan will just run a little longer if it needs to.

[Leegamer]

Great work man. It has to feel good to have it back on the road after doing all of this.

[06YarisRS]

Great work man. It has to feel good to have it back on the road after doing all of this.

Thanks! It does feel good but will feel much better after the tune. I'm really looking forward to experiencing boost, but must remain patient until my final tune.

After dropping my daughter off at her gymnastics class, I dropped by this garage that had a lot of muscle cars and classic cars in their lot. They referred me across the street to an equipment rental agency operated by a father and son who are both heavily into motorsports. The son has a turbocharged Cobalt and he did all the work himself. He's up for going for a drive with me to check out how the car is running before the tune. Great to make such a contact.

Hopefully today I'll get a sart on wiring my gauges. Will post up progress shots of that.

I had a thought that my MAF code might be due to a dirty MAF sensor. I used an oiled filter for my intake and it was quite juicy. I'll clean the MAF, reset the code and see if it comes back.

[06YarisRS]

Gauge wiring started

I got a couple hours in the garage today and started the wiring. It's coming together well and I found a nice location for the harness I'm making to exit the glove box. It's right between the two change holders and a short drop to the lower hatch access. I still have to figure out where to tap into the headlight switch. I had a look at the wiring diagrams but can't really make heads or tails out of them. So, if anyone knows which wire from the headlight switch becomes live when the headlights are turned on, I'd be most grateful.

You might notice one of the brackets that hold the gauges to the glovebox (far right gauge) is different. In the current chaos of my garage one for the brackets went missing, so I had to modify one from an older set of gauges I had. It actually worked better than the Prosport ones and is more low profile. Gauges are very snug and secure to the dash.

https://i.imgur.com/ZEfVT9g.jpg

There are three red and three white wires that can all be combined. These are all ACC power. I plan to tap into the charging port (cigarette lighter, for lack of a better term) located in the lower console. All three orange wires get hooked together and these are connected to the elusive headlight switched power. The three green wires go to the various sensors.

https://i.imgur.com/flidkcQ.jpg

Conduit housing all the wires. I put a ziptie next to the hole to keep the wiring from pulling on the gauge plugs. The harness is secured on the middle gauge bracket to keep wires from chafing.

https://i.imgur.com/lXjiyep.jpg

Wires labeled before sending the harness down below

https://i.imgur.com/tqWp7Fw.jpg

Wires below

https://i.imgur.com/qN9pMrB.jpg

Glovebox closes perfectly

https://i.imgur.com/NGyT0zX.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Wiring continues...

After getting my head around the wiring diagrams, I have a solution for the headlight switched source (this is what changes the gauge color from white in the daytime to blue at night). I found that pins 7, 8, 9 and 10 in B13 in the fuse box are the park light power sources, so rather than hook the gauges to the headlights and having to figure out the relays, I can just tap into one of the park light lines. I tested the circuit with my multimeter and had 0 volts with the park lights in the off position on the stalk and 12.6V (not running) and 14.2V (running) with the park lights turned on. I have selected the passenger side park light green wire. I will tap, solder heatshrink, wire loom and tape it. The two green wires are for the trans temp sensor and the oil pan temp sensor. I still have to run grounds for the two temp sensors, but I'll run them in the leg of the harness that goes to the sensors. I'm not a big fan of the sensor connectors that are just male and female terminals (much like trailer wiring) with clear rubber sleeves. I'll solder these wires and hearshrink them. If I have to replace the sensors down the road, I'll just cut the wires and resolder/heatshrink.

Looks like my strut tower could use a little degreasing and a fresh application of rust-proofing. It has kept the rust completely at bay however.

https://i.imgur.com/huVqYWG.jpg

The entire wiring will be soldered, heat shrinked, run through loom and taped and zip tied everywhere in the engine bay as well as behind the dash. There is still a lot to do. I have to remote mount my oil pressure sensor, so I still need some parts. I also need to make my final decision on where I'm going to tap into accessory power.

Here is a pic of the custom harness coming through the firewall. The hole I drilled for the F/IC was just big enough to accommodate this new harness.

https://i.imgur.com/Gtf34hv.jpg

Adding pics as I go.

Here is the switched headlight (park light) power source in its loom. I am thinking about lengthening that leg and running it along the bottom of the strut tower and up in behind. I think it looks pretty poor crossing the tower diagonally.

https://i.imgur.com/FsVAsUe.jpg

[CrankyOldMan]

Looking good!

[06YarisRS]

Looking good!

Thanks Sam! It's coming along. Once I get the gauges done I'll be trying to figure out the MAF code I'm getting. I'm going back and forth with AEM but they don't seem to want to tell me if I've wired the MAF correctly or not. I understand their reluctance to provide wiring directions, but on the other hand, it is their product and you would think that they'd offer support with a disclaimer that absolves them of any responsibility if anything goes wrong. I'd surely sign anything to that effect.

Here's they way I have it wired:

https://i.imgur.com/EOnpwdR.jpg

[CrankyOldMan]

What code?

[06YarisRS]

What code?

P0101

[06YarisRS]

Gauge oil pressure sender install

This is a job I had been avoiding for a bit as I wasn't thrilled about messing with my turbo oil supply line that taps into the car's oil pressure sensor port. My believe is that each time you mess with it, you increase the chances of leaks occuring. I had planned to remote mount the OP sending unit and bought a bunch of stuff, but there was simply no way to route the hose (grease gun hose and various fittings) that wouldn't result in the hose chaffing on the engine or frame. This, of course, could result in oil loss and potential catastrophic turbo and engine failure. There just isn't enough room to install the hose and its fittings. So, I added a short 1/8" NPT brass tee and attached the OP sender to that. The fitting structure coming out of the block is extremely secure and strong. Pretty sure you could hang a house off of it.

I have one wire left to connect - the ACC power wire - which I will tap into the grey wire for the power outlet (cigarette lighter) at junction D14 just below and a little left of the steering column. Hope to do this this afternoon, fire up the car and test the gauges.

Tapping for OP sender ground. There is a little recess in the plastic shield, so I marked the perfect spot. The shield will re-install without touching the ground bolt.

https://i.imgur.com/PufF7bi.jpg

Soldered ring terminal for the OP sensor ground. I had to drill the ring terminal out as the #6 bolt would not fit through.

https://i.imgur.com/6OvQzDJ.jpg

Finished ground. Love the Grote 4 times shrinking heat shrink with adhesive, for a water tight seal.

https://i.imgur.com/IAbjSUt.jpg

A couple shots of the OP sensor mounted.

https://i.imgur.com/Vuh3sVE.jpg

I adjusted the ground wire for the best flex. Still some taping to do. I taped off the harness and spray painted the bolt and area that I'd sanded to the metal. I'll blast rustproofing down inside the frame channel via the factory holes to where the bolt comes through to deter rust.

https://i.imgur.com/A4EV8cI.jpg

I had to drill a hole in one of the block tabs in order to have a place to attach the oil temp sensor harness.

https://i.imgur.com/36twCSz.jpg

There was nowhere reasonable to ground the oil pan temp sensor under the car so I added a grounding point to the strut tower by using an existing threaded hole. I just ran the ground wire back up the conduit that contains the sensor wire.

I also lengthened and tucked away the park light power source harness leg as I didn't like to diagonally crossing the strut tower.

https://i.imgur.com/CuJ25aV.jpg

[ern-diz]

I'm enjoying how thorough, meticulous and clean you are with everything. It's a mild OCD's dream.

[06YarisRS]

I'm enjoying how thorough, meticulous and clean you are with everything. It's a mild OCD's dream.

Haha. Thanks ern-diz! I does satisfy my own mild OCD. Let's see how truly OCD I get when the car is tuned. I like everything (engine and other components) to work as smooth and refined as stock. Hope I don't go falling down any rabbit holes LOL.

[06YarisRS]

F/IC...

In my attempts to restore my edited CAL file (after I adjusted the injector size and the car stalled and wouldn't start), I had forgotten to calibrate the F/IC for TPS and RPM. The RPM was off by about 350. Once I calibrated it, the car/torque and the F/IC are pretty much dead on. I'm showing no codes at the moment, but not optimistic that a couple won't show up after a few driving cycles. After the car heats up to operating temp, I am running a tad rich at idle, but it corrects quickly and returns to stoich. I'm optimistic that adjustments in the fuel and MAF tables will correct this. Also, my rear 02 sensor isn't hooked up (will be later today with a couple of defoulers as I have no CAT). I read that the rear O2 sensor does provide feedback that has an influence on fueling.


https://i.imgur.com/hLCXAMH.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Gauges operational

The pics do not in any way depict the depth, sharpness and brightness of these gauges. I had to use my flash as the non-flash version of the pics were very burry.


I also tested my trans fan cooler/thermostat/fan setup. The fan fires up right around 185F and you can watch the temp slowly drop as soon as the fan kicks in.

White (daytime)

https://i.imgur.com/LOKBWBj.jpg


Blue (nightime)

https://i.imgur.com/kI8ityR.jpg

Overall. Still have some work to do on those fuel trims. Once the revs come up, the STFT drops to close to zero and the LTFT starts dropping. The car is running a bit rich.

https://i.imgur.com/bhOzFsy.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Update...

Well, the car is running quite well, except that I am not getting any boost. I brought the car up to around 4000 rpm while watchng my manifold pressure gauge and the car stayed in vacuum. I spoke with my tuner and he - as well as the turbokits guys suspect a leak. Obviously, I'd prefer not to deal with this, but I'll chalk it up to another learning experience.

I have rigged up both a smoke tester and a pressure tester. I stole both of the ideas from youtube videos.

The smoke tester is a mason jar with two nipples; one for air (from my portable compressor with regulator), one for a hose that emits smoke. The burning will be achieved by mounting my soldering iron through the mason jar top and into a cloth or old sock soaked in baby oil. From what I've seen, it makes a lot of smoke.

The pressure tester, which will be used to test the charge piping, is basically a 2.5" elbow that I will attach the charge pipe at the throttle body. This end has a PVC cap with a fitting that attaches to my portable compressor as well. I will pick up a 0-30psi gauge at Canadian Tire ($5.99) and that will be screwed into the cap along with the fitting. The other end will plug off the pipe leaving the turbo compressor outlet. I tested the end caps and they can withstand quite a bit of pressure. With the gauge installed, I'll just start with low pressure similar to what my boost will be, 7 - 8 psi.

The smoke machine will be used to check for vacuum leaks.

https://i.imgur.com/dtMhvUC.jpg

[tmontague]

Great set up, could you hear anything from the engine bay that was indicative of a boost leak?

[06YarisRS]

Boost leak

I found a massive boost leak. It's at the funky piece that goes up over the subframe to join the inlet of the intercooler. I had to butcher that piece in order to make it fit. I'll need to order a few bits and pieces but will try adjusting the clamp while I wait for the parts. I may have other leaks to attend to as well, though that was definitely the most questionable union.

This - as suggested by Jesse at turbokits - is probably contributing to my fuel trims being a little whacky. Though I did have some fun tweaking the fuel map yesterday and I could see the improvements in te fuel trims as I made adjustments. I expect I'll have to go back to the preset map values after I fix this leak, and any others.


Pics to follow...

[06YarisRS]

Great set up, could you hear anything from the engine bay that was indicative of a boost leak?

Yes, you are correct!

[Leegamer]

It's not a turbo build if you don't have at least one major boost leak after putting it all back together.

[06YarisRS]

Boost leaks fixed!

Well, I learned how important it is to REALLY crank down hard on those T-Clamps. I reseated a couple of the clamps and cranked them down.

Here is my apparatus. It is made up of PVC plumbing caps, rubber couplers, clamps, a pressure gauge and fittings I had lying around. I had a 2.5" elbow left over from my charge piping work.

First, I tested the whole system from my air filter, custom 3" intake and right to the throttle body. I had several leaks, so I then decided to just do the charge side. You can see the cap I replaced my filter with down below.

https://i.imgur.com/FoppHlR.jpg

I capped off the pipe coming out of the compressor outlet and tested from there to the throtte body. I had a total of 3 leaks. They were bad enough that my little compressor couldn't pump enough air to even move the needle of the gauge I have on my cap.

https://i.imgur.com/1i24xw6.jpg

My BOV is leaking - not the connection but the BOV itself. Apparently, that's normal but I'm looking into that with turbokits. I plugged the BOV port with a piece of broom handle.

https://i.imgur.com/Iw465jO.jpg

Holding ~20 psi. I got a little crazy and pressurized up to 25 just for a second and still no leaks. Very happy about this. I bet I'll have boost now.

https://i.imgur.com/zKlkA2X.jpg

Here is my smoke machine that I'll use for the vacuum testing. I may not have any vacuum leaks but it won't hurt to check.

https://i.imgur.com/hlQVJmf.jpg

This is after about 3 minutes after plugging in the soldering iron. If I let it go 5 minutes, it produces a phenomenal amount of smoke.

https://i.imgur.com/8SiRcPt.jpg

[06YarisRS]

It's not a turbo build if you don't have at least one major boost leak after putting it all back together.

Amen, Haha!

[06YarisRS]

Smoke test and shop tidying

Vacuum test revealed no leaks. Yay!

https://i.imgur.com/kURv3T8.jpg

I opened the valve on the catch can.

https://i.imgur.com/pWy1tUy.jpg

I decided to tackle the mess in the shop.

https://i.imgur.com/J82F0q9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BpFJMS6.jpg

[ern-diz]

:bow:

[06YarisRS]

BOOST!

Well, I unexpectedly experienced ~ 4 psi of boost. I was down to an 1/8 of a tank of 87, so I poured in 1L of xylene and a 1/4 oz of atf, just for safety measures. I'll burn the tank down to the blinking light and fill up with 91 before the tune. I wanted to just get into boost 1 - 2 psi to test if I have boost, but the car had other plans. It happened quickly and pulled like a rocket. I didn't have time to clearly see the AFR, but out of the corner of my eye, it looked like it was in the 13s, so I'd say the map is doing its thing. There was no knocking at all. I can only imagine what this thing will do at around 7 - 8 psi.

After driving it a bit, I was able to enter about 1 - 2 pounds of boost in a fairly controlled fashion. It definitely pulls harder than the stock 2ZR even at low boost. It does appear to be not only rpm dependent but throttle position dependent. Boost came on strong a little over 3500 rpm. I hope that the tuner can figure out a way to bring boost on around 3000. From the get-go, I wondered if a T25 turbo would have been a better match for this car. It's smaller and would spool faster. The T28 would provide more power up high in the rpm range and likely not run out of steam well into the redline. In any event, I'll try my darndest to stay out of boost until I get my tune, which is this Saturday at 9:30 am. I'm going to request a conservative tune, but will take his advice. I did tell him that reliability is key and losing a few hp/ftlbs is fine in the interest of longevity.

It was so awesome to hear the BOV, but thankfully it's subtle, just a fairly quiet and quick 'PSST' sound. I imagine it will be a bit louder coming off 7 - 8 psi, but still quiet and sleeper-like. :clap:

Loving the gauges too. Oil pressure fluctuates between ~20 at idle to ~ 55 - 60 above 3000 rpm. Oil temps are hanging around 190F and trans temps are ~175F driving the car in a spirited fashion but not beating on it. I'm more confident that the car's cooling system will be more than capable of handling the extra power. I won't be calling for boost for extended periods of time.

[CrankyOldMan]

Congrats!!

[ern-diz]

Beyond cool.

[Maritime]

Woot. Good on yah.

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

[tmontague]

Solid work, very well done

[06YarisRS]

Thanks gents!

I had a great day toodling around in the car and went for about 140 km drive. I ran the car almost out of gas and filled up with 91before heading out on the highway. The car runs very well but will need some fueling adjustments, especially in deceleration from about 60 km/h down to about 20 km/h as it runs rich in that range. If I pop it into neutral within that range, it will drop to 18.2:1.

Tune is still on for Saturday morning at 9:30. Tomorrow I'm going to recharge my a/c system. I let out a little too much refrigerant as the low side was a bit high due to the rising temps. It's just a few psi too low to cool.

[eTiMaGo]

Awesome, welcome to the boosted club!

[Leegamer]

Any chance of dyno vids when you get it tuned?

[06YarisRS]

Any chance of dyno vids when you get it tuned?

Of course! My plan is to take some clips. Hopefully I don't capture it self-destructing.

[Leegamer]

SEND IT! lol

[06YarisRS]

SEND IT! lol

You'll get video evidence, no matter the outcome. :biggrin:

[06YarisRS]

All dressed up for tomorrow's hot date...

It got a bath and a coat of paint sealant. I may get the slightly low hanging exhaust tucked up a bit more. There's lots of clearance, but I'm not liking the look that much, honestly.

https://i.imgur.com/XLbIXSE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/v4HbI82.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/fhoAuMV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/t1NW5oU.jpg

[heeroyuy01195]

Looking good!

[06YarisRS]

Dyno Results...

So, I have to say that I'm pretty disappointed, however there is definitely potential for more power. My tuner feels that we can get 180+ whp if the boost will go up to 8 psi The tuner feels that my MAF sensor is hindering my performance somewhat. He has suggested that I speak with AEM and ask them their advice on dealing with it. He feels that a resistor may be necessary as the signal may not be clean which is resulting in both intermittent stumbling at idle. It doesn't do it that often and won;t stall, just a hiccup here and there.

I will say that I was hoping for boost in the lower rpm range, but it doesn't really come on until over 5000K. I also maxed out at around 5 psi. So there are some things to investigate there.

Finally, I have learned that automatic transmissions suck for turbos - at least mine. The car pulls really well in second and third, but will likely never be able to see boost in over drive, unless we can do anything to get the boost started at lower rpms, but that may mean a smaller turbo. My tuner feels that the transmission can definitely handle the power generated by around 8 psi.

Anyway, a few pics, before I show the somewhat diasppointing results. On a positive note, though, the car produced 147 WHP at only 4.3 pounds of boost. Should be able to reach my 180 wheel goal when I hit 8 - 8.5 psi.

Getting ready...

https://i.imgur.com/jvhqP6S.jpg

Big fan. This is before he moved it closer to the car.

https://i.imgur.com/eyQtIKY.jpg

On the 'rolling road'

https://i.imgur.com/Zc3n6P8.jpg

And, now, no doubt what anyone interested would really like to see... One run netted 155 wph but I didn;t get a pic of that.

https://i.imgur.com/r9FGbEn.jpg

[tmontague]

I wouldn't be too disappointed in those numbers. Keep in mind you never had a baseline dyno performed on that same dyno before hand so you cannot actually say how much you gained form it. I know Armstrong posted dyno results, but that was a different dyno and also he has an M/T. A/T's are known to suck power comparably. Chances are you were not sitting anywhere close to the mid 130's whp that Armstrong had and you still got a decent bump in whp from the Turbo.

You now have a starting point to refer against for the future. I am curious how your Butt dyno will find the new set up as this - albeit subjective - will at least give some reference to how it was before to now.

In all honesty 180whp seems a bit on the high side IMO. That would put your around 210-220 BHP which is pretty steep on 91 Octane and your current set up. I would aim for 150-160 WHP on the high end for a reliable daily driven set up.

Do you have a dyno chart at all, I'm curious to see your area under the curve?

[06YarisRS]

Thanks Trevor. I really appreciate your positivity. It's definitely more powerful but I have a strange thing going on. When I kick it down, I see 6 - 7 psi for a brief second, then it drops way down to like 1.5 or 2 psi. The tuner used his own method of monitoring boost. I have a couple thoughts. I wonder if my exhaust is too restrictive with the aftermarket scion xD cat welded in causing back pressure that forces the wastegate open. Or, for some other reason my waste gate is opening. The tuner really feels that there's very likely that the MAF is messing things up.

I am going to take the front off the car and this time connect my pressure tester directly to the compressor inlet and at the pipe entering the valve body. Then I'll test the throttle body for leaks itself.

I was really hoping to see some appreciable boost in the lower rpms, like around 3500 or 4000, not just over 5000. Maybe if I still have a leak, and fix it, I'll see some boost sooner. In the meantime, I'll stay out of boost.

All a little disappointing, but I'll forge forth.

Oh, thought I had a dyno sheet in the stuff he emailed me but I don't see it. I'll follow up on that and post.

[06YarisRS]

Trevor, dyno graph, as requested.

I was speaking with my tuner tonight and he said he recalled that I tapped into my vacuum line that has that solenoid in the vacuum line on the upper right side (facing the engine bay from the front) of the engine. He's not familiar with the engine, but wonders if the vacuum supply is being cut off. I'm not so sure that's an issue as my tap into this hose is between the solenoid and the manifold.

Anyway, I'll do a pressure test tomorrow and see if the turbo itself or wastegate has an issue.

This curve is nice and smooth. The first few pulls didn't look like that, trust me. LOL.

https://i.imgur.com/otZDfd9.jpg

[myfirstyota]

Didn't this kit claim 90 whp gains on a corolla? For that to be true, you would have to be putting 50whp down before the turbo! Something's off... you'll get it.

[06YarisRS]

Didn't this kit claim 90 whp gains on a corolla? For that to be true, you would have to be putting 50whp down before the turbo! Something's off... you'll get it.

Yeah, something's definitely off since I'm only getting ~5 psi, and not consistently from what I'm experiencing and what Torque is telling me. Could be a leak, wastegate adjustment, vacuum issue, MAF issue and possibly (but hopefully not), a torque management issue. My tuner believes it's 'fixable' and I should see 180 whp once this is sorted. It still doesn't solve the issue of it being an automatic, LOL! Of course, if I could get some boost in the lower rpm range, then it would work better with the auto. Speaking to other guys that have the kit and the turbokits guys, I should be seeing boost come on around 3500, not 5K. Something is letting the boost go, or something is inhibiting it. And, thanks for the encouragement. I need it. LOL

As an aside, I have a lot more faith in what these engines can handle. After two or three pulls, I had to walk down the road because I couldn't stand hearing my baby scream anymore. LOL. The tuner knows his stuff and he said the car handled it easily. The engine coolant, oil temps and trans temps were all well within safe limits. I also have more faith in my trans. That said, I'll probablly take Trevor's advice and have him tune it in a way that's a balance between performance and reliability. Maybe in the 160 - 170 range.

[06YarisRS]

Yaris vacuum system experts, help needed...

I started looking into the way I have my vacuum lines hooked up. Please see pics.I hooked up a low air pressure source to the current setup I have and I could hear air leaking and a strong smell of gas and it would not hold pressure. I don't know if this solenoid (vapour canister purge valve solenoid?) closes when the car is running but it's definitely leaking with my current vacuum line setup and the car not running. Maybe this solenoid only works for vacuum and not boost and maybe I'm getting a boost leak because of this. It air leak does not sound like it's coming from the throttle body, but down below the firewall somewhere. I disconnected that connection at the solenoid and supplied pressured air to the tee, so it's pressurizing to the FIC map sensor and the BOV. It's held a steady 10 psi for a long time. Again, I'm not sure what that solenoid does but it definitely seems to be connected to the fuel system. I am going to try to splice into my brake booster line. Thoughts?

https://i.imgur.com/F4OLsy3.jpg

A close up...

https://i.imgur.com/y2uPGNa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/s5tofhJ.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Vacuum from brake booster

My first attempt to solve my boost issue is to restore the original vacuum line that I tapped into, then tap into the brake booster line.

The hose I have is too weak to withstand vacuum and would collapse, so I lined it with some of the very stiff compressor hose I had. It fits perfectly and you can't compress it at all now.

https://i.imgur.com/tTTGPOD.jpg?1

returned to stock

https://i.imgur.com/FOghXHv.jpg

New tapping of the brake booster hose. I just have to pick up a couple reducing couplers tomorrow. The hose ends will be trimmed to the right length and then connected. I have enough length on all the hoses to tuck this all away nicely and protect it from chafing. Of course the tubing will be fully seated on the tee when I put it back together.

https://i.imgur.com/sR708qm.jpg

[ern-diz]

My, oh my, you've been busy! I'm nowhere near as knowledgeable, but like Trevor, I wouldn't say disappointed. A lot of positives here and you're working towards sorting things that need sorting. You, sir, are kicking much ass.

[Leegamer]

Pretty surprised at that boost lag, seems like it would be a reasonable turbo to run for that motor to get a good range of boost.

[06YarisRS]

My, oh my, you've been busy! I'm nowhere near as knowledgeable, but like Trevor, I wouldn't say disappointed. A lot of positives here and you're working towards sorting things that need sorting. You, sir, are kicking much ass.

Thanks ern-diz! I always appreciate your encouragement. I'll have an update shortly.

[06YarisRS]

Progress

Well, I found a T-clamp that wasn't as tight as the others. It is the clamp that connects the first section of the charge piping to the compressor outlet. I cranked it down quite hard and then went for a drive. It pulls like crazy; much than when I brought it back from the tuner and I can hear my BOV when I release the throttle everytime after going into boost. I wasn't hearing it before. Torque shows the boost initially at 2.9 psi, then it goes into vacuum, but AFAIK, you don't hear a BOV in vacuum. This would also explain my dyno chart and the fact that my tuner was seeing 5.4 psi. I may need to procure a dedicated boost gauge. Also, boost seems to come on much sooner, probaby closer to 3500 - 3700 rpm. I plan to go for a drive later and I'll bring the laptop along and I can monitor PSIA load which will tell me the actual boost above atmospheric pressure. I just have to subtract 14.7 (I actually live probably 30 feet above sea level)

However, I still have idle issues to work out and I have some occasional light bucking and a misfire code P0303 (cylinder 3). The bucking occurs when I am out of boost at about 120 km/h on a hill at light to moderate throttle. I press down a bit harder on the throtte, the bucking stops. I think I need to do some road tuning and add some fuel in the cells that correspond to that particular load and RPM.

So, I'm very happy that I am seeing progress, but there are issues to deal with yet. I will take a few degrees of timing at idle to smooth that out, add some fuel for the bucking and report. I'm going to speak to my tuner and see if he'll give me 30 - 60 minutes of road tuning as opposed to getting on the dyno again.

If I had to guess what I'm producing at the wheels now, I would say closer to 170 - 180 - but that's butt dyno only, of course.

[06YarisRS]

Pretty surprised at that boost lag, seems like it would be a reasonable turbo to run for that motor to get a good range of boost.

Yes, for sure. Check out my post just above.

[heeroyuy01195]

Can you describe the idle issues and the bucking a bit more? Glad you found the source of the leak! I would definitely invest in boost gauge to keep an eye on things.

[06YarisRS]

Can you describe the idle issues and the bucking a bit more? Glad you found the source of the leak! I would definitely invest in boost gauge to keep an eye on things.

Sure can.

Idle:

Idle is perfect and smooth (around 750 rpm) when the car is below operating temps. It is always hard to start. It takes a few cranks and often requires messaging the throttle in the first few seconds to keep it running. Usually two or three light shots of gas will get it over this hump. My suspicion is that it's very rich at startup - but I could be wrong. Then it settles out into a nice idle. Once it's up to operating temps at idle in neutral or "D", it will intermittently feel like it is going to stall (rpms drop quickly but only for a fraction of a second), then immediately recovers. This intermittent stumbling only happens at idle and occurs every minute or two and sometimes every few minutes. By this time the idle is around 550 - 600 rpm (a bit slow). If I turn my A/C on at this point and put it in drive, it may stall, but not always. Under these conditions it has stalled in reverse as I believe that puts more load on the engine. Before I installed the 440cc injectors, I had no idle issues whatsoever, and it literally ran like stock at idle. I really need to get this issue resolved because it's dangerous at intersections etc in the city as the car might stall when approaching or stopped at a stop sign/light. Then, of course I lose power steering assist and possibly some braking.

Bucking (this did not happen at all before my tune):

If I am driving on the highway at around 110 - 120 km/h under light throttle and encounter a slight grade, the car will start to buck a bit (seems like misfire, which would corroborate the P0303 code). If I apply even the slightest extra throttle when the 'misfire' is occuring, it will completely stop the hesitation and run perfectly.

I plan to do some data logging with the F/IC software. I'll also monitor the fuel cell data while I recreate the 'misfiring'. My tuner said that I would probably have to add some fuel at those points.

Rich AFR:

90% of the time the car runs at, or close to stoich - except of course in boost when the AFR richens purposefully. When I am decelating (basically with my foot just resting on the pedal at low speeds - or to maintain low speeds speed - say coming down from 60 km/h), the AFRs may jump up as high as the high 12s, but most often something like 13.4 - 13.8. Under these conditions, there is no difference in how the engine performs, sounds or feels. If I just tap and release the throttle under this light deceleration, the AFRs will drop to the expected 18.12.

Overall, the car must be running rich as I have black soot in the tail pipe. And, maybe my misfire is related to plug fouling, but not sure about that as the misfiring occurs only under very specific conditions as mentioned in the first paragraph.

A local parts store has a vacuum gauge that can go up to +10 psi. I'm grabbing that today, plumbing into my vacuum lines, running the tubing through my window and will see what it tells me.

MAF:

I can monitor MAF voltages in the F/IC software. It will you show you MAF input and MAF output voltages. It does look like the F/IC is adjusting the voltages as there are subtle differences between the input and out voltages. I am wating to hear back from AEM as to whether the F/IC seeing the voltages indicates that the MAF wiring is hooked up properly. My tuner does think that the MAF may be messing somewhat with my boost/contributing to my idle issues.

Finally, I have a B1S2 (rear O2 sensor) code (P0137), I believe. I am basically catless as the cat is after the rear O2 sensor. I had them weld the cat in as a 'resonator' of sorts. I've fixed this issue before by adding sparkplug defoulers to get the O2 sensor back out of the exhaust stream a bit. This did not work for this car. Although voltages generally fluctuate between 0.1V and 1.0V, it will occasionally spike above that, which I believe is setting the code. I did read that the rear O2 sensor does influence AFR in this car, so maybe it's related to my issues too. In Torque I can data log, so I'll figure out how to get it to monitor O2 sensor voltage and a couple other paramters at the same time. Maybe it will give me some insight into what's going on. I did fiddle with the fuel map, taking out some fuel at the rich points and it did appropriately affect the AFR, leaning it a bit. But, I'm not sure how this would affect AFRs in the opposite direction - aka, accelerating.

I have asked my tuner if we can do a street tune and he's up for that.

[06YarisRS]

Making progress...

1) Bucking at highway on hills (light to moderate throttle)

As I described, I'm getting a bit of bucking (misfiring?) at around 110 - 120 km/h on hills with moderate throttle. Again, if I add a touch more throttle, or ease off the bucking stops. I connected the laptop, monitored AFRs and found the precise spots where the bucking occurs. So, it appears that between 1.3 - 3.3 pounds of boost, I get the bucking. You can see that this is the point were significantly less fuel is taken away in the interest of becoming more rich as this is the onset of boost. Above that, more fuel is added. This is the tuner's map which is currently the one loaded in the F/IC. I will speak to turbokits.com as they have the same cell values in the table.

https://i.imgur.com/fGMufWs.jpg

2) Boost

Monitoring my MAP from the F/IC software, I am definitely getting boost and it starts below 3000 rpm. I have seen as high as ~21 PSIA - around 6 psi boost - but I wasn't full throttle with pedal to the boards. It's difficult to monitor it with the laptop on the passenger seat while driving, so I picked up some stuff today to monitor my boost directly. For now, I will run the tubing through the firewall as I expect I'll end up getting an actual boost gauge.

https://i.imgur.com/yL8Uvbc.jpg?1

[tmontague]

You are definitely correct about the newer smart ecu's and the 2ndary O2 sensor influencing AFR's. I put 2 defoulders in my outback for a p0420 code and I ended getting 2 other O2 sensor codes showing delay in reading and low voltage. I could see the voltages between the bank 1 and 2 sensors with my ultra gauge during driving. It essentially caused it to read very delayed and read lean. I removed it due to this.

Earlier 1st gen ecu's the 2ndary O2 sensor was only for emissions and did not influence AFR's.

Good job trouble shooting so far. I was surprised that you weren't getting boost until 5k rpm, do I'm glad you found the issue

[06YarisRS]

You are definitely correct about the newer smart ecu's and the 2ndary O2 sensor influencing AFR's. I put 2 defoulders in my outback for a p0420 code and I ended getting 2 other O2 sensor codes showing delay in reading and low voltage. I could see the voltages between the bank 1 and 2 sensors with my ultra gauge during driving. It essentially caused it to read very delayed and read lean. I removed it due to this.

Earlier 1st gen ecu's the 2ndary O2 sensor was only for emissions and did not influence AFR's.

Good job trouble shooting so far. I was surprised that you weren't getting boost until 5k rpm, do I'm glad you found the issue

Interesting stuff. I was checking out my O2 voltages today for the B1S2 sensor and it stayed at 0 regardless of throttle input, rpms etc. I thought, that's weird. I'm pretty sure a cooked the leads as I had temporarily hooked it up and it was fairly close to the exhaust. I'm going under the car in bit and will confirm if indeed it's shot. I have another O2 sensor I bought a while ago, so I'll pop that on after extending the harness. I'm still have to reinstall my heat shield, so I'll run the wire up and over that. That should keep it safely away from the heat.

[Leegamer]

So glad you found the boost leak. That's awesome.

[06YarisRS]

Boost test with gauge

So, I tapped into the MAF line to the F/IC to test my boost using the gauge I picked up. I am definitely getting boost in the lower rpms ~ 2800. If I mash the throttle in third the boost shoots up to 4.5 and tops out. I had a couple of thoughts:

1) the vacuum hoses that connect to both the throttlebody and manifold are held on by pretty flimsy spring clamps. These are certainly not designed to experience positive pressure, only vacuum. I can actually turn the hoses and could easily pull them off with the spring clamps on. I am going to pick up some screw pipe clamps and tighten those down. There are about 6 connection points that I think have the potential to leak.

2) Manifold and throttlebody gaskets. Since it's impractical to pressure test the manifold or throttlebody, I think I may go ahead and order a gasket for each. In both the process of the engine swap and during the turbo build, I removed both items. It's possible they are leaking. I think leaks in these areas would also contribute to my idling issues.

[06YarisRS]

So glad you found the boost leak. That's awesome.

Well, I did but there may be more areas to deal with. See above.

[WeeYari]

Well, I did but there may be more areas to deal with. See above.

The BUG plus is you actually got boost down into the usable rpm range.

[06YarisRS]

The BUG plus is you actually got boost down into the usable rpm range.

Oh, for sure, WeeYari! I was so happy to see that. Now 1 - 2 psi doesn't make a huge difference, but it's definitely pulling harder. At 4 psi it's pretty strong. Once I get to my full 8, it should be even more fun!

I found this calculator a long time ago and just recently started plugging numbers in again. It is a simplified calculator, but a good reference anyway. It also seems right in line with my dyno results. Ultimately, I don't care what my numbers are as long it's working to its potential and is safe.

My Corolla engine should put out 126 crank HP stock, due to the xD (detuned, I think) ECU. With a 15% (the average, I guess) driveline loss, that would result in about 107 whp. Assuming 5.4 psi (which the tuner got, not sure how, lol), that equates to 146.32 whp. That's bang on with my dyno numbers.

At 8 psi, I should be able to expect ~165 whp. I think that should suffice in the light little Yaris, haha.

I had a long chat with a member of Toyota Nation a couple of evenings ago. He has the same kit and apparently he dyno'd 195. The kit claims to add 90 - 100 hp to the Corolla, so not sure what all is at work with mine.

Anyway, here's the very simplified boost calculator:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/hp-blower.php

It's important for me to keep my expectations in check and understand fully what this is. I've driven in muscle cars and a friend had a Porsche 930 turbo that was an under 5 second 0 - 60 car. The turbo Yaris will never be this, but it will be very fun to drive.

[06YarisRS]

leak-proofing vacuum lines

Just to be sure that I have no leaks, I'm clamping every connection. The OE vacuum lines are held on with spring clamps. You can actually turn the hoses and pull them straight off without removing the clamps. Since these are designed to see vacuum only, I thought I'd 'boost-proof' them just in case I'm losing a bit of boost through these connections.

The OE (larger) hoses are now all screw clamped, much tighter and cannot be rotated or even budged. I read on a turbo forum that zipties are great for securing turbo vacuum tubing, so I did that to all of the connections I made when installing the turbo vacuum lines.

https://i.imgur.com/EGCp7fX.jpg

I will be re-checking all of my T-clamps as well. Starting with the throttle body clamp, I noticed that the clamp seems a bit too wide to sit flush to the throttlebody. There is a raised section in the casting at the back of the throttle body that prevents the wide clamp from seating all the way back. The clamp may have been riding up a bit on the throttlebody inlet flare. I trimmed off a bit of the metal on the clamp. The clamp now fits more securely and is just behind the flare. I don't know that it was leaking, but the clamp is seated much better now.

https://i.imgur.com/xT4sGsc.jpg

I just want to rule out boost leaks before looking into possible ECU management issues that may be thwarting my full boost.

I have also decided to buy a high flow CAT with O2 sensor bung. I can get a stainless steel one with bung on eBay for about $45.00. I might be able to get away without my defoulers if I install the high flow CAT, and be rid of the annoting P0137 code. I'll just cut my pipe with my sawzall, and clamp the CAT into the straight section.

[06YarisRS]

Stuttering/ bucking at low boost

I've been doing some research on my bucking issue at moderate throttle between 1 and 3 psi. I compared the tuner's map and the basemap for TK. The fuel cell values in that area of the maps are identical, so not sure what's causing that since it started doing it after my tune. The tuner recommends adding some fuel in those cells. I"ll test drive, replicating the stuttering and monitor my AFRs. If lean, I'll add some fuel. The research I did suggests a couple possibilities. 1) radical changes in adjacent cells can cause bucking at certain loads, or 2) I need to wire in parallel a 2.2K ohm resistor between the crank mag wires. Apparently several turboed Scion cars have this issue. Boomslang started adding these resistors to there PnP harnesses around 2007. I have a 2008 Scion ECU.I've been doing some research on my bucking issue at moderate throttle between 1 and 3 psi. I compared the tuner's map and the basemap for TK. The fuel cell values in that area of the maps are identical, so not sure what's causing that since it started doing it after my tune. The tuner recommends adding some fuel in those cells. I"ll test drive, replicating the stuttering and monitor my AFRs. If lean, I'll add some fuel. The research I did suggests a couple possibilities. 1) radical changes in adjacent cells can cause bucking at certain loads, or 2) I need to wire in parallel a 2.2K ohm resistor between the crank mag wires. Apparently several turboed Scion cars have this issue. Boomslang started adding these resistors to there PnP harnesses around 2007. I have a 2008 Scion ECU.

[06YarisRS]

Stuttering/ bucking at low boost

I've been doing some research on my bucking issue at moderate throttle between 1 and 3 psi. I compared the tuner's map and the basemap for TK. The fuel cell values in that area of the maps are identical, so not sure what's causing that since it started doing it after my tune. The tuner recommends adding some fuel in those cells. I"ll test drive, replicating the stuttering and monitor my AFRs. If lean, I'll add some fuel. The research I did suggests a couple possibilities. 1) radical changes in adjacent cells can cause bucking at certain loads, or 2) I need to wire in parallel a 2.2K ohm resistor between the crank mag wires. Apparently several turboed Scion cars have this issue. Boomslang started adding these resistors to there PnP harnesses around 2007. I have a 2008 Scion ECU.

[CrankyOldMan]

Oh man, I can hardly wait to see what happens when you've got it all sorted out! I remember the change from the stock 1.5 to the supercharger and also to the 1.8 being some next level stuff. Going from the stock 1.8 to boost will be insane, even at 160-170 whp.

[06YarisRS]

Oh man, I can hardly wait to see what happens when you've got it all sorted out! I remember the change from the stock 1.5 to the supercharger and also to the 1.8 being some next level stuff. Going from the stock 1.8 to boost will be insane, even at 160-170 whp.

Thanks Sam. I'll tell you right now that this car is already insane even at 4 psi. I was out today data logging and adjusting fueling to combat the studder I'm getting at part throttle. Check out my next post for some new info.

[06YarisRS]

More updates...

So, I was out datalogging today. I'll review those in a bit.

I have almost erradicated my stumble at part throttle at around 3100 rpm. I have been adding fuel to the cells which are highlighted when the car bucks. I still have one small buck to eliminate. Fortunately we have a good stretch of highway with hills, but it's still a challenge to drive, hold rpm and edit the table simultaneously. I don't really have anyone that could either drive - the way I need the car driven - or that could make the changes in the software. I'm going out again this afternoon, to kill - I hope - once and for all, the last stumble. It is a tricky process as when you make a change in one cell, the stumble might suddenly shift to the area represented by another cell (aka, different rpm and load). My fuel table looks crazy with fuel added and in many cells and radical shifts from once cell to the adjacent ones, so I'll be closely monitoring my AFRs to be sure I don't have any dangerous lean spots. I don't expect to as all I've been doing is adding fuel. AFRs where I've made the changes look good. That said, I'm going to confirm this with turbokits and my tuner before I go blasting around in boost.

The best news...I think...

For the first time today, I was driving around with my window open. As I enter boost, I can hear air hissing from the driver's side quarter panel. As the boost increases (and maxes at around 4 psi), the hissing gets louder, then my BOV releases when I come off the throttle. I HAVE ANOTHER BOOST LEAK! I think, or a vacuum line leak that's not keeping the BOV fully shut under boost. This is looking very promising. If I get this fixed (I'm still in the process of adding clamps to vacuum lines and will recheck all my T-clamps, I expect I'll see my full boost.

I will say that the car is positively nasty already at 4 psi. It pulls very hard and the wheel(s) (just one as I have no LSD) wants to spin at speeds over 30 - 40, km/h when it downshifts in boost, and I'm on a hill for example. I did, for the first time enter moderate boost (maybe 3 psi, moderate given my current max boost) in 2nd gear and it chirped the tires shifting to 3rd. I was really surprised. Honestly, I'm quite afraid of what this car will be capable of at 8 psi.

[CrankyOldMan]

More updates...I will say that the car is positively nasty already at 4 psi. It pulls very hard and the wheel(s) (just one as I have no LSD) wants to spin at speeds over 30 - 40, km/h when it downshifts in boost, and I'm on a hill for example. I did, for the first time enter moderate boost (maybe 3 psi, moderate given my current max boost) in 2nd gear and it chirped the tires shifting to 3rd. I was really surprised. Honestly, I quite afraid of what this car will be capable of at 8 psi.

Sounds like you're ready for a MT swap!:burnrubber:

[06YarisRS]

Sounds like you're ready for a MT swap!:burnrubber:

I woud love to have Tom's 6-speed, LSD and all the goodies for the swap! Now, wouldn't that spice up my Yaris! Haha.

[06YarisRS]

Bubbles

As I mentioned earlier, I could hear a significant air leak coming from my driver's quarter panel area when I entered boost. It got louder the farther I went into boost. I think I got lucky and stumbled on the right combination of factors: I had my window down and I was test driving on a back road, so sounds were bouncing back off the trees. Otherwise I might not have even heard the leak.

So... I conducted more testing.

Using my mini compressor, I repeated my charge pipe pressure test. As before, it held 20 psi with ease and there were no leaks - the gauge stayed dead at 20. This is with the BOV removed and the port capped off.

Then I tested my vacuum/boost line that runs from the FIC MAP sensor to the BOV and gets its vacuum source from the brake booster line. The vacuum lines held 20 psi, no leaking, gauge didn't move.

So, we've established that there are no vacuum leaks, nor charge pipe leaks.

Finally, I reinstalled the BOV and tee'd off my compressor line so I could pressurize both the vacuum lines and the charge piping - simulating a manifold pressure boost situation. Unless, I'm doing something wrong (highly probable) or am not understanding fully how the system works (again, highly probable), I think my BOV is faulty. With both sides of the BOV pressurized, I have a significant leak with air bleeding from the BOV, until - guess when? - the pressure lowers to a little less than 5 psi and the gauge stays put. Hmmm... ~ 4 psi is the max boost I'm getting. I can't think of anything else, but it does really seem like I'm losing my boost - or not able to get to full boost - due to a leaking BOV. I passed this all by my tuner and he's pretty sure I've diagnosed this correctly. I've emailed the turbokits guys and I'm sure they'll have an answer for me. They are very attentative and bang on when it comes to support.

New testing apparatus

https://i.imgur.com/n4s1EZX.jpg

One hose from the compressor, one hose to the BOV and one hose to the F/IC MAP sensor

https://i.imgur.com/anT09U2.jpg

Lots of gushing air and bubbles with the BOV pressurized from both sides. The air is coming from the holes in the BOV, not my coupler/clamps.

https://i.imgur.com/pdHXH2p.jpg

Here's a pic of the schematic of my testing precedure:

https://i.imgur.com/iY7Zuzx.jpg


On a positive note, I have pretty much erradicated my partial load stumbling at highway speeds. I did this by adding fuel in the active cells of the map where the stumbling occured. I still have one hiccup but could't get to it as my laptop battery died before I could eliminate that one. The changes have made for a pretty funky looking fuel map, but my tuner tells me that it is so vehicle dependent and that tuning it to address driveability issues is what's needed. He launched into a detailed explanation of closed loop vs open loop transitions, kilopascals and all kinds of other stuff that flew over my head. However, he says that many cars he's tuned have maps that are all over the place and that's perfectly fine if that's what the car needs. Of course, I do have to watch AFRs as I make changes, but I'm only adding fuel, not subtracting. Again, I'll bounce this off the turbokits guys as they're the experts.

[CrankyOldMan]

Having done zero research myself, I can't verify how accurate the wikipedia article (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowoff_valve) is but it suggests that the MAF vs blowoff issue is fairly common and can be compensated for by placement of the MAF.

[06YarisRS]

Having done zero research myself, I can't verify how accurate the wikipedia article (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowoff_valve) is but it suggests that the MAF vs blowoff issue is fairly common and can be compensated for by placement of the MAF.

Thanks Sam. Great read.

My BOV is before the MAF sensor, so a blow through system as opposed to a drwa through system. The kit, I believe, was designed purposefully as a blow through type. I found the SR20DET example interesting in the respect to the necessary relative position of each piece.

According to my tuner, we are basically trying to get a economy car to perform in ways that it was obviously not intended to and the hard part is reconciling the piggyback's and the ECU's handling of open loop and closed loop operations. I think I'm getting close to a good tune and I asked him if when we achieved a good tune for this car if it would remain stable. He said, "definitely". It will just take tweaking to make it 'perfect'. I'm still having some minor idling issues and overall the car is running a tad rich, evidenced by a bit of soot in the tailpipe. I do want to get this ironed out because not doing so could potentially result in high EGTs and issues with the cat converter. That said, it seems my car is rich only under vacuum conditions and relatively low power demands, so excess heat may not be an issue. I'll keep tweaking the fuel map.

Thanks again for the article!

[CrankyOldMan]

That's definitely the biggest hurdle--getting a closed-source ECU that will fight tooth and nail to optimize fuel efficiency to instead optimize power output. That's why standalone ECUs are a thing, or in the case of cars intended to be performance vehicles the manufacturer will make the ECU customizable (Ford Mustang, Chevy Camaro, etc.) with aftermarket profiles.

I think if I'm going to do another FI build on a Toyota engine I will go standalone. The MegaSquirt line of products is very well documented and even has native ECU connectors for some older models (Echo, MR2, Paseo, etc.) so I could start with an Echo 1NZ wire harness on a 1NZ and go from there.

I'm amazed at both the amount of effort this has taken and the dedication you've put into it. Most people wouldn't have even started this project and you've climbed some huge obstacles to make it happen. My hat is off to you!

[06YarisRS]

That's definitely the biggest hurdle--getting a closed-source ECU that will fight tooth and nail to optimize fuel efficiency to instead optimize power output. That's why standalone ECUs are a thing, or in the case of cars intended to be performance vehicles the manufacturer will make the ECU customizable (Ford Mustang, Chevy Camaro, etc.) with aftermarket profiles.

I think if I'm going to do another FI build on a Toyota engine I will go standalone. The MegaSquirt line of products is very well documented and even has native ECU connectors for some older models (Echo, MR2, Paseo, etc.) so I could start with an Echo 1NZ wire harness on a 1NZ and go from there.

I'm amazed at both the amount of effort this has taken and the dedication you've put into it. Most people wouldn't have even started this project and you've climbed some huge obstacles to make it happen. My hat is off to you!

Thanks very much, Sam! I'm compelled to do such things as I thoroughly enjoy tinkering and working at solving problems. It is frustrating at times but infinitely rewarding when things work out. I do hope that once the car is done that it will remain stable (the tune) and my tuner is convinced that this would be the case.

I too would go standalone if I did this again. I did have a great discussion with my tuner about the pros and cons of piggybacks and standalones. I have hockey practice with my son now but will elaborate in a bit.

[ern-diz]

I'm amazed at both the amount of effort this has taken and the dedication you've put into it. Most people wouldn't have even started this project and you've climbed some huge obstacles to make it happen. My hat is off to you!

+1000000 :thumbsup:

[06YarisRS]

+1000000 :thumbsup:

Thanks ern-diz!

[Leegamer]

I agree, the amount of time, research, work, dedication to this build is outstanding.

This is what project cars are all about, trying new things and having fun.

[tmontague]

I agree with the above sentiments - kudos to you and your determination, it will pay off well in the near future

[06YarisRS]

Thanks Leegamer and Trevor! I appreciate it. I was away to my son's hockey school, but am now back ready to tackle the issues I'm having with my BOV. I repeated my tests again: No leaks in charge piping (holds 20 psi easily) independent test with BOV port capped. No leaks in vacuum source (hold 20 psi easily) with BOV installed. BOV leaks after ~4.5 - 5 psi when charge piping and vacuum line is pressurized simultaneously. I'm thinking I'll remove the BOV and cap the BOV port and vacuum line to the BOV and go for a drive. If I get over 5 psi, I'll pretty much know for sure it's the BOV valve.

Thanks again!

[Leegamer]

Nice detective work!

[06YarisRS]

Nice detective work!

Haha, thanks. Unfortunately, with the BOV port plugged, I still max out around 4.5 psi and can hear air escaping. This is becoming very frustrating. I am next going to try and test my intake manifold gasket and throttlebody gasket. Ho hum...

[malibuguy]

Just delete the BOV its not super necessary. Im with you on the tuning the FIC. With my tercel i was having an annoying stumble as well that seemingly came out of nowhere and it was associated cells messing with the the cells that needed to stay pretty much unfooled with. I changed the map so basically the lower 3 cells were full vacuum to 0, then the remaining 13 cells above that was all boost to give me more resolution.

Since basically down low nothing needed tweaking once I set it for the large injectors.

Was awesome until I got greedy with the boost and sent a rod at 18psi. Should of kept it at 16psi.

But hey now it has a 1nz swap

[06YarisRS]

Just delete the BOV its not super necessary. Im with you on the tuning the FIC. With my tercel i was having an annoying stumble as well that seemingly came out of nowhere and it was associated cells messing with the the cells that needed to stay pretty much unfooled with. I changed the map so basically the lower 3 cells were full vacuum to 0, then the remaining 13 cells above that was all boost to give me more resolution.

Since basically down low nothing needed tweaking once I set it for the large injectors.

Was awesome until I got greedy with the boost and sent a rod at 18psi. Should of kept it at 16psi.

But hey now it has a 1nz swap

Thanks. Well, I still have some tweaking to do for sure, but I'll wait until I can figure out this lack of full boost, leak issue. Not sure if I mentioned it above or not, but I still have the leak with the BOV port closed off. Once I sort the leak, I'm going to focus on improving my idle. Idle is great, but I get the occasional hiccup and it may stall with a bit of idle load and more likely when the A/C is on. The other fueling area I'd like to attend to is on light deceleration my AFR is a bit rich ranging from 12.9s to high 13s. My tailpipe is showing some soot. Other than that the car runs great and pulls like a rocket even at 4.5 - 5 psi. Since I can't get Torque to provide me with accurate boost or AFR readings, I'm going to have to bite the bullet and pick up those gauges.

I did a couple more tests and got some strange results. I removed the hose that comes out of my catch can and connects to the intake manifold - where the PCV would have entered the manifold. I put some pressure (about 8 to 10 psi) into the intake manifold. I could hear a large leak and I followed it to my 3" custom intake. It is leaking at the coupler just above the turbo that connects the two main pieces of intake piping together. I had to dent that tubing for clearances around the top of the head at the corners of the engine. As a result, the end of the pipe is a bit out of round so won't seal. I'll get that rounded back out at the local shop that has an exhaust pipe expanded. BUT... the leak isn't my concern. The question is, why would pressurized air from the intake manifold make its way back into the air intake for the turbo. Is this normal? I expect that it's just feeding back through the compressor housing and out through the intake. It begs the question though...if pressure from the intake manifold can make its way back into the air intake, does that not constitute a boost loss? Now, mind you, the car wasn't running, so there was no vacuum on the air intake. I never thought that boost could be lost back through the air intake. I expect that when in boost the air is all traveling toward the throttlebody at a high velocity, so it's unlikely to vent back out through the air intake. I'm really still in the learning phase, so nothing surprises me at this point.

I smoke tested my manifold and throttebody and could not get a whisp of smoke leaking from either of those. As expected, the smoke eventually made its way out of the air filter.

Somewhere I must still have a boost leak. But, right now I am at a loss as to where it is. Independent tests of vacuum lines and charge piping are excellent, easily handling 20+ psi. Tomorrow, after I get the intake fixed, I'm going to fiddle with my wastegate. Although it feels like the flapper door is making tight contact with the compressor housing, I'm going to preload the actuator by one or two turns. It is possible that I'm getting some leaking there as I had the actuator off a couple of times and may not have gotten the actuator arm nuts back in their original position.

[06YarisRS]

Another significant setback...

So, yesterday I was out driving around and I got a P0500 code (vechicle speed sensor). I thought it might be caused by chafed wires as one of my turbo coolant hoses looked like it was rubbing on it a bit. I conducted a continuity test and all there wires are fine. I was really hoping for lack of continuity in one of the wires, but no such luck. So, the next thing to check is the speed sensor itself. I soaked it in Releasall; allowing it to sit for a good amount of time. The bolt felt like it was turning and snapped off. Now I can't get sensor out to test it. I am not optimistic that the sensor itself is the problem, but if I can get it off, I will test it.

The current symptoms are: a MIL with code P0500, no speedometer and the car won't shift into overdrive.

I will try to remain optimistic, but I am beginning to wonder if I should have taken this project on. Things went so well for most of the build, but issues are cropping up that are putting a serious damper on my enjoyment of this.

[ern-diz]

I can't say I can relate because I've never been in your position, but I HAVE to imagine that this is all part of the journey. I may be speaking out of school, but a lot has gone your way so far. Don't let our OCD and desire for things to be absolutely perfect NOW put a damper on things. My dogs and my cars have taught me a lot about patience. Soak it all in. It's all part of the process. Just more opportunities for that infinitely rewarding feeling you spoke of earlier. One way or another, there isn't really anything that can't be overcome with enough time, effort (and maybe money lol).

All I can do is offer the unsolicited advice (which you can tell me to shove somewhere) of stay positive and stay the course. You may mess around and end up missing these days once the build is done, and for what it's worth, you've been a huge inspiration!

[Leegamer]

You're trailblazing here so you're gonna run into issues that no one has seen, but stay positive. You did this in a relatively short period of time and "Rome wasn't built in a day" lol. You'll get it man!

Based on this thread you're pretty sharp and thorough, so you'll get it!

[CrankyOldMan]

Sorry to hear that! It seems like my repairs are never ending as well--currently I'm going through accessory belts at an alarming rate. I've also had to replace the alternator itself three times in the last 3 years. I definitely get your frustration.

The sensor itself is a pain to remove, even with the transmission on a workbench. There's nothing to grab on to or pry against. I may have a few spares in my parts pile if you need to replace it. Getting the bolt out is going to be another story, I'm afraid. Might be able to get a welder in there and put a nut on the stub that's left, hopefully the heat will break it loose.

[06YarisRS]

I can't say I can relate because I've never been in your position, but I HAVE to imagine that this is all part of the journey. I may be speaking out of school, but a lot has gone your way so far. Don't let our OCD and desire for things to be absolutely perfect NOW put a damper on things. My dogs and my cars have taught me a lot about patience. Soak it all in. It's all part of the process. Just more opportunities for that infinitely rewarding feeling you spoke of earlier. One way or another, there isn't really anything that can't be overcome with enough time, effort (and maybe money lol).

All I can do is offer the unsolicited advice (which you can tell me to shove somewhere) of stay positive and stay the course. You may mess around and end up missing these days once the build is done, and for what it's worth, you've been a huge inspiration!

Yeah, I was acting like a bit of a whiner (my words). LOL! And, yes, things have indeed gone my way. I have been very lucky with the build so far. You are right, ern-diz, this can be overcome and it will. I guess because things had gone so well, that I just expected them to keep going that way. I spent most of the day away from the car and it helped. On a positive note, I picked up my CAT today and it looks great. I hope it gets rid of my downstream O2 code. If not, I'll slap the defouers on and see if that works.

Thanks very much for the kind words. They really do help!

https://i.imgur.com/HgqBaDg.jpg

[06YarisRS]

You're trailblazing here so you're gonna run into issues that no one has seen, but stay positive. You did this in a relatively short period of time and "Rome wasn't built in a day" lol. You'll get it man!

Based on this thread you're pretty sharp and thorough, so you'll get it!

Thanks a lot, Leegamer!

[06YarisRS]

Sorry to hear that! It seems like my repairs are never ending as well--currently I'm going through accessory belts at an alarming rate. I've also had to replace the alternator itself three times in the last 3 years. I definitely get your frustration.

The sensor itself is a pain to remove, even with the transmission on a workbench. There's nothing to grab on to or pry against. I may have a few spares in my parts pile if you need to replace it. Getting the bolt out is going to be another story, I'm afraid. Might be able to get a welder in there and put a nut on the stub that's left, hopefully the heat will break it loose.

Hey Sam. Sorry to hear about your troubles, but I guess it's just part of our game, eh? I'm going to see if I can test the sensor on the car. I read about how to check oscillating voltages with a multimeter by supporting the car and turning the wheels. Maybe it isn't the sensor. If it isn't, I can tell you, it's not going anywhere, lol. I may be able to drill it out and tap if I do have to remove it.

If I do need a sensor, maybe I'll hit you up. That's a very kind offer! I called Toyota and they want $500.00 for the sensor. Rock Auto has one from ~$135.00, so that's always an option too.

Thanks man!

[CrankyOldMan]

Hey Sam. Sorry to hear about your troubles, but I guess it's just part of our game, eh? I'm going to see if I can test the sensor on the car. I read about how to check oscillating voltages with a multimeter by supporting the car and turning the wheels. Maybe it isn't the sensor. If it isn't, I can tell you, it's not going anywhere, lol. I may be able to drill it out and tap if I do have to remove it.

If I do need a sensor, maybe I'll hit you up. That's a very kind offer! I called Toyota and they want $500.00 for the sensor. Rock Auto has one from ~$135.00, so that's always an option too.

Thanks man!

Yeah, but it's mostly my own fault. I'm not as proactive about maintenance as I should be and generally let things slide until it's a crisis.

I'd be happy to donate one to the project, assuming it's the right part number!

[tmontague]

i agree with what others have said, you are blazing a trail not only with putting a turbo in a non turbo engine (in a car not spec'd from the factory with said engine) with a kit meant for a different car. On top of all of that, you want it to run as close to factory as possible and get rid of all dashboard lights not to mention all while running the stock ecu with a piggyback vs a standalone. This is no minor task by any means and I would say this far you have done a stellar job of chasing things down and correcting them.

You have had a decent run lately which sometimes can skew expectations as to thinking that is the norm. Sometimes issues like this help you readjust your realistic expectations. I would recommend you separate your current issues into a priority sequence and tackle them one at a time in order of importance depending on your preference. Trying to tackle it all at once will have you resenting the car pretty quickly.

This is one thing I learned with my recently purchased neglected Outback. I had to learn to live with certain dashboard lights while I focused on the most important issues that were related to chassis safety and dependability before I could tackle stability control sensor lights.

Keep in mind you took on this project (smartly) with a non DDer car that can afford down time. Use this to your advantage when you need it and take a break. There is no real time limit on this project and if you followed any other builds like this they seem to take a couple years before all of the kinks are worked out.

Keep on keepin' on

[06YarisRS]

Thank you Sam and Trevor! I don't think you know how helpful and encouraging your positive comments are. I have made some progress that I will share with you shortly. It may involved soliciting your opinion on a couple of things! Stay tuned... :smile:

[06YarisRS]

P0500 Troubleshooting

I got a P0500 (VSS Circuit Malfunction). The Vehicle Speed Sensor on the rear of the transmission is not working and the results are: no speedometer, dash MIL and no shift into overdrive. Shifting into all other gears is fine. I did have one point where the car would not move in gear at all. Shifting into park and back fixed that.

I did some testing today. I cut the pink wire to the connector (signal wire) and put a wire extension on it and a terminal to attach to my multimeter. The idea is to spin the wheel slowly with the ignition on (the sensor is ignition powered), and watch the multimeter as the current oscillates between 0 and 11 volts. Here is the testing procedure:

https://i.imgur.com/ZNr4Cth.jpg

Here is the wiring diagram for the Yaris. I will have to crossreference with the xD diagrams, although I think the xD takes its speed data from the ABS system.

https://i.imgur.com/8FBPZwD.jpg

Test wire. When I conducted the test, the connector was reattached to the sensor.

https://i.imgur.com/TMehu4A.jpg

Result. 0 volts with wheel spinning and stationary.

https://i.imgur.com/XEtyXgQ.jpg

It seemed strange that I wouldn't see any voltage, so I decided to probe the power terminal on the connector (again, with ignition on) and still 0 volts. Here is a question, however: I did not ground the multimeter on on pin#2 of the connector, but rather on a chassis ground. Is it a must to ground the multimeter ground lead on the wire of pin#2? I can do that by making a tap into that wire of necessary.

Since I had no power at the connector (and I had previously done continuity tests - all good), I decided to move to the junction connector (CA2, if I recall correctly) in the fuse box to see if it was getting power. Again, with ignition on, there was zero volts.

https://i.imgur.com/Q05vRF2.jpg

I have to consult my wiring diagrams and trace where this power source comes from. If it is fact from the ECU, I may have a bad ECU. If I do, I can pick up another one for around $25.00 - $30.00.

I am thinking about applying direct voltage to the VSS pin wire #1 (black wire) and repeating the VSS sensor test. However, I need to find out if the supply is 12 volts and not something like 5. I expect it's 12 volts as it is an ignition source.

Open to any suggestions/recommendations. Thanks!

[tmontague]

hmm weird, I would do as you stated and just run power directly to the VSS. Double check to make sure it is 12V but I would be surprised if it wasn't. If the VSS works with direct power then you know the power supply is the issue and you will have to work back from the sensor to see where the power is cut off.

If there is no power all the way back to the ECU then either you have a bad ECU or it has something to do with the piggyback or the wiring of the piggyback messing with the ECU. No way to know this other then try another known good ECU.

I just find it off that all of a sudden your ECU is potentially bad. I don;t believe in coincidences enough to believe that. I have a feeling it has something to do with the addition of the piggyback. You know more about the wiring and hook ups then I do in regards to the piggy back though so I'm not sure what your thoughts are on that.

[06YarisRS]

hmm weird, I would do as you stated and just run power directly to the VSS. Double check to make sure it is 12V but I would be surprised if it wasn't. If the VSS works with direct power then you know the power supply is the issue and you will have to work back from the sensor to see where the power is cut off.

If there is no power all the way back to the ECU then either you have a bad ECU or it has something to do with the piggyback or the wiring of the piggyback messing with the ECU. No way to know this other then try another known good ECU.

I just find it off that all of a sudden your ECU is potentially bad. I don;t believe in coincidences enough to believe that. I have a feeling it has something to do with the addition of the piggyback. You know more about the wiring and hook ups then I do in regards to the piggy back though so I'm not sure what your thoughts are on that.

An update, Trevor, in my next post...

[06YarisRS]

I have a development that springs from a flaw in my testing. When I was looking for the power source at the fusebox, I hadn't plugged CA2 back into the fusebox. With CA2 seated back in the fusebox, I probed the pin from above and had battery voltage. I also have IGN battery voltage at the speed sensor connector, so I guess that's good news. However, when I connect my multimeter to the signal wire from the sensor, I get battery voltage - no oscillations in voltage when I spin the wheel. It just stays at battery voltage. Here's another possible factor. I checked my battery voltage today and it was just over 10 volts. I have been suspecting a weak battery for a while. I'll be picking a new one up tomorrow. I always keep it on a trickle charger. When they tested the battery today, it actually read 12.8 volts but immediately failed the amp draw test. Turns out that the battery was manufactured around 8 years ago. Not sure how long it was in service, but probably a long time. I know that low voltage can play havoc on modern electrical systems, but my VSS code popped up with the car running and charging at 14.1 volts. I will redo the test tomorrow with the engine running and with the new battery. Maybe the low battery voltage supplied to the sensor itself is adversely affecting the operation of the unit. At least tomorrow I'll have the correct voltage supply.

Anyway, with the VSS showing steady battery voltage and not oscillating, I'm leaning toward the sensor itself being the problem. I do think that bench testing the sensor is the way to go as if the nylon driven gear is broken, at least I can still spin the shaft and see if the voltage outputs are in spec. God forbid that the driving gear on the output shaft failed as that sounds like a transmission drop and case crack - something that I'm not necessarily comfortable doing.

To get the sensor off - with the broken bolt - I am going to try drilling out the broken bolt from above. I can pick up a 12" drill bit extension and it looks like I might have a straight on shot for drilling after I remove my intake and 1 heater hose. If I can drill it out, I'll tap for a new bolt. If I can't drill it out, it may be time to dig out the dremel and cut the bolt flange off the sensor. I won't really know how badly stuck the sensor shaft is in the transmission casing until I can get what's left of that bolt out of the equation.

A quick question about the sensor voltages when testing...With the open diff and the other wheel spinning in the opposite direction, would that affect the voltage output? I wouldn't think so.

Steady voltage with when turning slowly:

https://i.imgur.com/ytQJ3JA.jpg

Broken bolt on VSS:

https://i.imgur.com/CK7Tly4.jpg?1

[06YarisRS]

P0500 VSS Testing

Please check out my video. I am getting strange behaviour from my VVS. Later, I plan to put my 2008 up on the stands, tap into the VSS signal wire and repeat the same tests and see what the voltage readings are. In the meantime, please have a look and see what you think. The weird thing is that sometimes I get a high voltage reading when I apply the brakes (wheels stop spinning) and the next time, I will get almost no voltage.

Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1d59v-rTqdo

Update: I tested the VSS on my 2008 using the same procedure and got virtually identical readings. I spliced in a bit of extra wire on the VSS sensor signal lead on my '06, reseated the plug as well as both ECU main connectors. I've gone for 3 short drives and the P0500 has not returned. I also installed a new battery and slightly tightened by serp belt as I had some minor squeaking on occasional starts. So, I have no idea what was wrong, but it's working great now. Time will tell.

Here is the VSS test video on my '08 which can be compared to my '06, if interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAys4wV_BPc

Apparently either getting battery voltage or 0 volts is normal when stopped (wheels not turning). It depends which side of the sensor is next to the 'pickup' at the wheel stop time, I guess.

[06YarisRS]

Back to boost troubleshooting

I've been suffering boost cut at around 5 psi. Maybe saying that the max boost I get is around 5 would be more accurate. It will hit around 5 and stay there. I used my small compressor, 0 - 10 psi pressure gauge and tested my wastegate. At right around 5 psi, the flapper feels like it's getting loose. It's definitely open at around 6 - 7 psi, but I don't know if that's a fair test as there's no actual counteracting exhaust gas pressure in the turbine housing without the engine running. Then again, there probably shouldn't be much pressure in the turbine side. I need to read up more on wastegates.

Pics:

https://i.imgur.com/XvubvR5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GbVB7nL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ThDA60C.jpg

Update: Video of wastegate operation added. The wastegate flapper arm is almost unmoveable with no pressure applied. If I apply 3 - 4 psi, the flapper arm becomes loose and can be jiggled. After 5 psi, there is slight, yet visible, movement of the actuator arm. Much over 5 and I get very noticeable movement of the actuator arm. I know that there is no exhaust in the turbine side but my understanding is that the pressure on the turbine side would be minimal as it's flow through.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IS6D2iFIpTk

[06YarisRS]

Megan Axleback???

I've got to get rid of my Megan axleback on my 2ZR turbo application. I did some measurements today and was very surprised to see just how restrictive the Megan is. At the narrowest point where the exhaust tip attached to the muffler body it is ~ 29mm (1.14")! This may be fine for a NA Yaris, but the stock exhaust actually appears to have a larger diameter. I'm pretty sure that backpressure is limiting my car from reaching full boost. I won't be going anywhere near boost or likely even driving this can again until I can rid myself of the Megan and find an alternative.

This is not intended to criticize the Megan product, and I should have done better research, but it's still very surprising that a product with what appears to be 2.5" mandrel bent SS piping would narrow to basically an inch.

I used the handle from my pruners to try to gauge the inner diameter.

Megan narrows a LOT:

https://i.imgur.com/K5azvvY.jpg

Inner diameter contact points:

https://i.imgur.com/YdI6UFP.jpg

29mm (1.14")

https://i.imgur.com/FHcyXGk.jpg

Stock Yaris exhaust 38mm (~1.5"). It may narrow down more at the muffler, but not by much, I expect.

https://i.imgur.com/6bug5x8.jpg

[06YarisRS]

High-flow CAT installed

And, no 02 code after several drives. Not holding my breath, even though the oscillating voltages look within spec.

I love the reflective fiberglass tape. When it gets hot, the glue seems to further bond the whole thing together into a solid mass. I was very sceptical that this stuff stay on but it definitely seems to improve with a bit of time and heat.

I extended the harness about the needed 6 - 8" to reach the 02 sensor. As usual, all connections were soldered, heatshrinked and run through wire loom before being taped with the reflective fiberglass tape. Not a real OEM look, but, hey, I'm rarely going to see it. I'm going to pick up a few push mount cable ties to support the harness.

I've also decided that I'm not going to reinstall the heat shield. On hot days, even with city driving, I've not noticed the floor even getting warm. Another plus is that I can coat my whole tunnel with rust proofing.

https://i.imgur.com/xxw8zhb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jhtz14S.jpg

[06YarisRS]

New exhaust solution

Rather than going through the hassle and expense of finding another rear mount muffler and paying an exhaust shop to do the work, I'm opting for a glasspack and SS tip. The 18"glasspack has the louvered design and will have just enough room after the CAT. The exhaust tip is 2.5" inlet, 3.5" outlet and 18" in length. I may have to extend the pipe a few inches with a small section of 2.5" and a couple of couplers. I got the tip for just under $12.00 (must be a clearance on eBay) and the glasspack for $27.00 and change. I'll do the install myself. Hopefully it won't drone badly on the highway. I'm optimistic that it will be ok since the Megan (although it has a larger chamber) is basically a glasspack, plus I just installed the CAT and the turbo is supposed to quiet things down a bit too.

https://i.imgur.com/Dt79gzc.jpg

[tmontague]

Excellent job looking into the exhaust issues and tackling the others.

The catalyst readiness check is the last one to be checked and sometimes takes a couple hundred km to go through. Cross your fingers but like you said time will tell.

You can always use a scanner to monitor engine readiness checks and see if it has passed or not

[06YarisRS]

Excellent job looking into the exhaust issues and tackling the others.

The catalyst readiness check is the last one to be checked and sometimes takes a couple hundred km to go through. Cross your fingers but like you said time will tell.

You can always use a scanner to monitor engine readiness checks and see if it has passed or not

Thanks Trevor. Interesting thoughts. I hadn't thought of looking at the readiness data. Torque does display that info. Before I changed out teh sensor, I was getting a steady 0.0V. The black wire on the sensor was literally hanging on by a strand of copper wire. It had been twisted so many times, that the conductor just broke.

[06YarisRS]

Exhaust concept

While awaiting my exhaust parts, I got thinking how neat it would look to have a 'dual exhaust' effect happening. I did a little mockup of what it might look like with two 3.5'ish tips. I think they look a touch big in the pic. Maybe 3" tips would look better. I was under the car this evening and there's definitely room for the piping.

Feel free to express your thoughts. I have broad shoulders, lol. Basically ignore the tip on the left if you want to get a sense of what it will look like with a single tip.

https://i.imgur.com/zBXMhmS.png

[eTiMaGo]

I like it :)

[tmontague]

I second that!

[06YarisRS]

Thanks guys. I really like the look too, although it does sort of violate my policy of keeping the car stock- looking. Decisions, decisions.

[06YarisRS]

Better flowing exhaust

Wish me luck. I am going to attempt the installation of these parts myself. I picked up a few clamps and new bi-metal blades for my sawzall.

https://i.imgur.com/92A6zth.jpg

I ordered another tip the same as the one pictured in the event that I do decide to go with the 'dual' look.

https://i.imgur.com/yHq2rxE.jpg

[ern-diz]

:clap:

[06YarisRS]

Exhaust Redo

Well, stainless steel is a b**ch to cut. I trashed 2 new sawzall blades and had to finish off with my hacksaw. Thankfully I cut the aluminized pipe to install the new inline muffler first with one of the new blades. This is not the 'funnest' job, but I should have great flow when done. It's sad that a Megan axleback had to be basically destroyed in the process, but it would have cost me much more for another trip to the exhaust shop to have another piece of pipe bent and installed.

https://i.imgur.com/rjKiLEc.jpg

New 'muffler' installed

https://i.imgur.com/Frjxtoy.jpg

Extension for tip

https://i.imgur.com/IR3qMLF.jpg

Tip installed...Joking...the pipe will be cut back so that the tip will just slightly protrude from under the bumper cover.

https://i.imgur.com/Yx4Wskd.jpg

Update

The car is definitely louder than with the Meagan, butI'll test drive this afternoon to see what it's like. My AFR and boost gauges have arrived, so I hope to start installation on those tomorrow.

A bit of a hatchet job on the exhaust, but my budget isn't big enough for a full SS, mandrel bent and welded system. None of the clamps and such should be visible when the car is back on its wheels.

https://i.imgur.com/h36NsHs.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JOcf4NC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/J5v5Gkc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jw9AmT1.jpg

[tmontague]

Looking good, grab a sound clip when you can!

[06YarisRS]

Looking good, grab a sound clip when you can!

Will do. It sounds great outside.

I'm going to have my neighbour weld the tip and extension piece of pipe on. I've discovered that clamping stainless steel onto aluminized piping is a no win proposition. My tip got loose. The car is also a bit too loud for my liking, so I am going to have to look into another muffler solution in the not too distant future.

On the upside, I hit 8 psi. The car pulls really hard but the shifts can be quite firm. I've become very adept at manually shifting the auto for smoother shifts. It may have something to do with my poly filled dogbone, though. If the auto dies, I'll be looking at swapping in a manual with upgraded clutch.

I'm still struggling with idle issues. The car will run great until it gets up to temp and then it will occasionally (every few minutes) drop idle and it may stall at an intersection with A/C on. I'm doing some logging to try to figure out what's causing the rpm drop (stumble). The car usually takes two starting attempts and is very rich at startup. I will try pulling some fuel in the very low rpm range and see if that helps. Other than that, the car runs great and is sometimes scary. LOL

[WeeYari]

https://apexi-usa.com/hybrid-mega-evo-muffler-2007-2011-toyota-yaris

[06YarisRS]

https://apexi-usa.com/hybrid-mega-evo-muffler-2007-2011-toyota-yaris

Ooh...very nice! Thanks. I wish they had an actual picture though. I can't see the one in the pic fitting.

[06YarisRS]

Short video clip of accelerating

Please excuse my old weathered hands. LOL! As mentioned in the video, I did not mash the throttle and I'm still a little timid with the car. But, it really pulls and highway driving is a blast. I actually have to let off the throttle when climbing hills. I was up to 140 km/h in a flash on a long hill. Once I get a little more comfortable with the car, I'll open it up a bit more and do another video.

I am going to get a muffler installed because it is too loud in the car. Actually, I would say it's just on the edge of being too loud.

As an aside, I discovered that a couple of gas stations across the border, near my parcel pick up spot, sell 93 octane. Bonus. Speaking about pacel pickups, check out my next post for goodies acquired. :biggrin:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEfCFa4Ed1c

[myfirstyota]

Do you not have 94 at petro Canada out that way?
Used to be Sunoco but petro has it at many stations here in Ontario.

[06YarisRS]

Do you not have 94 at petro Canada out that way?
Used to be Sunoco but petro has it at many stations here in Ontario.

No such luck here. We only have 91. Only you, Alberta and Quebec get 94 from Petro-Can.

[06YarisRS]

Wideband AFR and Boost gauges

I negotiated a decent deal with Prosport. They gave me about $50.00 off.

Unfortunately, this means that I have to redo my gauge mounting. I have another driver's side upper glove box cover from the original dash in my '06. Fortunately, it was about the only part of the dash cover that is pretty much blemish free. If I had only kept each gauge about 1/2 cm closed to each other, I would have been able to add these two new gauges.


I had to get these gauges as torque's response times are way too slow.

https://i.imgur.com/1xgEDEG.jpg?1

[06YarisRS]

Exhaust solution

I wasn't willing to gamble on another glasspack or chambered muffler for noise reduction, so I picked up a Thrush turbo muffler. I've read that the highest possible flowing muffler is what's wanted, but this 2.5" inlet/outlet turbo muffler is used on good sized V8s (often on dual exhaust and well over 350 cu.in engines), so I'm positive that it will be more than adequate for my needs. I now have three exhaust tips to sell, lol, and I will be buying the shortest 3" - 3.5" double-walled tip I can find on eBay. For now I will stick with a single tip, but down the road, I may upgrade to two tips. One thing I do like about the inlet and outlet placements of this muffler, is that I can get the tip much closer to the passenger side. Honestly, as nice as the Megan was, I didn't like the placement of the tip, which was approaching the center of the bumper.

This isn't the ideal exhaust situation from an aesthetics point of view and it's and aluminized muffler, not stainless steel. The car isn't driven in the winter, and stored inside the rest of the time, but the minute it starts showing any corrosion, it will be painted flat black. I may do that now anyway.

My neighbour is going to weld my muffler on tomorrow and when my tip arrives, I'll have him weld that on too.

https://i.imgur.com/BCHbvHv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Lc36Bue.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GNAw4GZ.jpg

Here is approximately what it will look like:

https://i.imgur.com/rTyhy8U.png

Alternative exhaust tip look More GIMP image manipulation while I wait for my new tip to arrive and wait to get my muffler welded on. Whatd'ya guys think about recessing the exhaust tip into the bumper cover?

https://i.imgur.com/O30feAh.png

[myfirstyota]

If you're able to cut a clean line in the plastic, I'd go for it.
It's the little touches like that that I personally like. Something 99% of people won't notice. But if the 1% notice, it's worth it.

[WeeYari]

Careful with that. I've seen a couple notching attempts done for center exit mods and they've looked like yak. The problem is manufactured notches have a buildup, or contour, of material around the opening which gives them a proper look. An owner cut notch just looks like an owner cut notch if you know what I mean.

[06YarisRS]

Yeah, I really like the 'idea' of the notch but was looking at things more closely and decided it wasn't a risk I wanted to take. Maybe if I go for the dual tip look down the road, I'll remove the rear bumper and properly build some notches with curved plastic and bondo for the recess; mould some nice cutouts, prime, spray and clear the bumper. However, for now, I just mounted the muffler as per the original pic. We supported the muffler with a jackstand and got it perfectly positioned so the tip I got will just barely touch the bumper. The only short 2.5" tip that I found that will work for me is 4" at the outlet. It should look good. It's due to arrive Friday, so when it's mounted, I'll post a pic.

Man, does the exhaust sound freakin' amazing now. The turbo muffler is deep and smooth at idle but sounds spectacular at 5500 rpm, and, zero drone at highway speeds.

[06YarisRS]

Since Torque failed me in the A/FR and boost monitoring departments (AFR response times are way too slow and it won't show anything over vacuum), I'm having to completely redo my gauge setup. As mentioned, fortunately I had another driver's upper glove box cover in mint condition. My wife and kids are away for a few days, so I decided to be bad and do this on our kitchen table.

It looks very dirty and messy now, but will looked great when I'm done, fingers crossed. The AFR gauge is from a different series of Prosport gauges (the Premium Series) so there are differences. The ring color is a little darker and the gauge is taller. However, I think it will look great. My rationalization is that it's the most important gauge, so it will be a little more 'pronounced'. Then the other gauges (two on each side of the AFR gauge) will be symetrical. The face size, lettering and lighting color is precisely the same as all the other gauges.

My setup will be (from left to right): Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, AFR, Boost and Trans Temp.

Below is a pic in its current state. The gauges fit great and the gauge cups completely cover the holes. Each of the cups for the new gauges (AFR and Boost) will need to be profiled to fit the curvature of the glovebox, but I'm optimistic that I can get the to match seemlessly as the other 3 already installed gauges do.

Unfortunately, this is a LOT of work as the A-pillars and complete dash cover has to come off to attach the new glovebox cover. Plus, all of my wiring will have to be lengthened to move the existing gauges. Wiring and tubing has to be run for the AFR and boost and I'll have to drill a hole in the tunnel for the AFR O2 sensor wiring.

https://i.imgur.com/c5Pe9Y7.jpg

Yesterday, after a conversation with a gent at Booslang Manufacturing (the outfit that makes the Plug n' Play harnesses), I picked up a few 2.2K Ohm resistors. They put these in many of their Toyota harnesses on the crank and cam signal wires to combat noise that can cause studdering and possible idle problems associated with dirty signals and the AEM F/IC's sensitivity to such. Oddly enough I drove the car quite a bit today and neither would it studder (I have been manipulating the fuel table), nor would it stall or even buck at idle. I haven't installed the resistors yet. Maybe my ECU is starting to make its own adjustments.

Resistors

https://i.imgur.com/SuQY3b9.jpg

[Leegamer]

Gauge setup is going to be really cool, can't wait to see the finished product

[06YarisRS]

Gauges continued

I still have a lot of work to do to contour, level and angle the gauge cups, but this should give a sense of the final look.

https://i.imgur.com/L6OSiDR.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aHyI2za.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2EKDtMg.jpg

[Leegamer]

I really dig that. Don't take this the wrong way, but it reminds me of a boat dash, but in a good way.

[myfirstyota]

I've had this idea but with a smart phone and the torque app. But if it's not fast enough, I may just have to 'copy' your idea.
Looks great!

[06YarisRS]

I really dig that. Don't take this the wrong way, but it reminds me of a boat dash, but in a good way.

Haha, come to think of it, it does look like a boat dash. Honestly, I'm not that fond of the overall look. Because of the design of the backside of the cover, I had to mount the gauges a little to the left. As such, they are not exactly lined up from the driver's perspective. I have a bit of leeway and may try to shift them all right a bit. Pics in next post.

[06YarisRS]

I've had this idea but with a smart phone and the torque app. But if it's not fast enough, I may just have to 'copy' your idea.
Looks great!

Yeah, I was very disappointed that Torque was useless for boost and AFR. I tried reducing the number of gauges - actually at one point down to just boost and AFR - and enabled fast communication. It was still useless.

[06YarisRS]

5 Gauges cont'

Not thrilled with the look, but at least I will be able to accurately monitor all necessary parameters.

Just before install into dash

https://i.imgur.com/PIOlx7I.jpg?1

Fortunately, I didn't have to completely remove the dash cover. I could lift it enough to get at the screws behind.

https://i.imgur.com/7Xl1nLV.jpg

Swapping springs over

https://i.imgur.com/lrKzEM2.jpg

Just a few pieces left to install: A pillars, center console etc. As mentioned in another post, I has to mount the gauges slightly left of center to get them all in. The back of the cover has an outward curve close to the center console that limits gauge placement somewhat. It would have placed the gauge at an odd angle. I have to crane my neck slightly to the right to see my oil temp gauge on the far left, but oil pressure, AFR and boost are prefectly in line. I get a weird sensation that I'm being stared at by large spider eyes. :eek:

https://i.imgur.com/D0taTPm.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JBUhvzv.jpg

[WeeYari]

Looks pretty darn good. Your Dremel just earned its keep.

[ern-diz]

Looks pretty darn good. Your Dremel just earned its keep.

^^^I was going to say.

Fine work.

[06YarisRS]

Oh yeah! I picked up that dremel at a yard sale for $10.00 and it has been absolutely invaluable throughout this entire turbo project.

I'm glad you guys like the look. I'm sure it will grow on me once they're powered and lit up.

Tomorrow is the fun part - wiring that bloody AFR gauge. It's quite complicated with 4 harnesses, obviously the sensor and a control module. The boost gauge will be a snap as I'm tapping the vacuum line that feeds the F/IC MAF sensor which is behind the dash a foot or two away.

[06YarisRS]

Gauges working

Just a few small details to finish up.

Hole drilled for wideband sensor. I had an old rear windshield wiper rubber grommet that worked great for the wideband sensor harness. Ill just pop it back out and apply a little rtv and smush it back in after the paint is fully cured. I painted the bare metal with primer and silver paint.

https://i.imgur.com/yj1Z7wv.jpg

Running the two harnesses for the AFR gauge and the tubing for the boost gauge.

https://i.imgur.com/U5w1bvM.jpg

Harnesses and wideband control module. I have yet to permanently mount that. Getting crowded back there behind the glove box.

https://i.imgur.com/ZUPlcBA.jpg

Beginning stages or wiring and 're-wiring'.

https://i.imgur.com/gy8wyZZ.jpg

Day mode. The pics look horrendous. The gauges look some much more crisp, bright and uniform than my cell phone would have one believe. I still have to remove the clear plastic protectors on the gauges. Interestingly, the AFR gauge shows the same approximate readings that torque does at idle but it is so much faster responding, so much so that torque completely misses the subtle variations. I haven't driven it yet but I expect the differences between Torque and the wideband gauge will be significant.

https://i.imgur.com/134voBR.jpg

I have to rotate a couple gauges to properly align them yet. Again the pics don't do the gauges justice. I'm sure the flash doesn't help. When I take pics without the flash, they come out very grainy.

https://i.imgur.com/H0KQo0Y.jpg

[06YarisRS]

New exhaust tip installed

I like the look, but wish I'd had the exhaust guy tilt the muffler a little closer to the bumper cover so the tip would be a tad closer. Still looks good, though, I think. I'll get an outdoor shot from a bit farther away. It was dark out when I took these.

https://i.imgur.com/l5W2YVY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vbLWsXd.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mJlG2j3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zYFuC6f.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Wy4atbz.jpg

[heeroyuy01195]

Looks fantastic!

[06YarisRS]

Looks fantastic!

Thanks, dude! :thumbsup:

Some pics in next post. It's growing on me.

[06YarisRS]

Tip Pics

I really have to get my "rule of thirds" down. Not much of a photographer. Lol.

https://i.imgur.com/xIf4roY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6jUunD9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lHb8Dnw.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Open Loop/Closed Loop Partial Throttle AFRs

The learning continues...

So, I'm seeing approximately stoich AFRs at partial throttle/low boost scenarios. When my throttle is close to maxed (I'll check my TPS via Torque to confirm when open loop kicks in - if in fact that's a variable that can, in and of itself, trigger open loop) I get perfect AFRs in the order of 12:1 or 11.5:1. I haven't noticed any ill effects whatsoever from the stoich AFRs at partial throttle low boost which I see for example if I'm slowly accelerating up a long hill at partial throttle. I actually wish I had and EGT gauge. Actually, Torque may have that option and maybe it can poll an EGT sensor in the car.

The F/IC does have an O2 spoofing function whereby voltages are manipulated to fool the ECU into thinking that a richer AFR is actually stoich, so in this respect closed loop AFR tuning is possible, I guess. At least that's how I think it works. Apparently there was no O2 map included in the F/IC tune that comes with the kit as they couldn't get it to function consistently across cars.

Currently, I am running 91 and sometimes 93 octane.

Any thoughts or observations regarding both my partial throttle/low boost AFRs and or O2 spoofing would be welcomed.

[06YarisRS]

After a bath and a good rip

I don't know if it's the weather (temp, humidity etc) or the car's ECU learning both fueling at idle and the new shift patterns, but the car is working great. The car hasn't stalled or even bucked at idle the last few times I've driven it. I drove around town and highway for a good hour after work and there were no stalls at stop lights, even idle and the shifting seems to have improved a lot. It's also starting on the first crank now. Before I might have to turn it over 2 or three times. I'm still getting some rich AFRs at light throttle deceleration and very light throttle (more like feathering the pedal) cruise, but oddly the ECU is commanding these AFRs. My 08 pretty much always commands 14.69, very infrequently 13s, but only for a split second.

Anyway, went for a good long drive tonight and entered full boost a half dozen times. The car pulls like crazy and shifts actually quite smoothly. After a good workout, coolant temps never exceeded 195, oil temps under 200, Trans temps around 180 - 190. It is cool out and the highest intake temp I saw tonight was around 80F. Very happy for now!

I still have to tighten my wastegate actuator arm but I'm hitting ~5.5 - 6 psi with the new kit in my BOV (Forge sent me a rebuild kit). Not sure if I really want or need the full 8.5 boost.

Crappy lighting + crappy camera = crappy pics...

https://i.imgur.com/e3YNFd7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZovUmx1.jpg

[tmontague]

great to hear things are running smoother now. So was your BOV faulty?

[06YarisRS]

great to hear things are running smoother now. So was your BOV faulty?

Thanks. The car does seem to be running great and it's an absolute blast to drive.

Yeah, the BOV seemed to be bad. I applied equal pressure on both sides and it leaked. I did a rebuild on it but didn't actually test it before installing it.

[Leegamer]

So if you unplug your battery will you have to go through this whole learn process again?

[06YarisRS]

So if you unplug your battery will you have to go through this whole learn process again?


That is indeed a good question and I'm purely speculating that the ECU is actually learning to adjust these variables. It may well be environmental factors. Regardless, I'm pleased that it's running well now. I've given up on the hope for stock-like around the clock reliability and consistency but I guess that's part of the equation when turboing a NA car. I have been driving it a lot lately with no issues, but am aware that things could change at any time. I'll keep the thread updated regarding the 'long term' functioning.

[Leegamer]

That is indeed a good question and I'm purely speculating that the ECU is actually learning to adjust these variables. It may well be environmental factors. Regardless, I'm pleased that it's running well now. I've given up on the hope for stock-like around the clock reliability and consistency but I guess that's part of the equation when turboing a NA car. I have been driving it a lot lately with no issues, but am aware that things could change at any time. I'll keep the thread updated regarding the 'long term' functioning.

Glad to hear it's running great now, though. Sorry, wasn't trying to be a "debbie downer"

[06YarisRS]

Sorry, wasn't trying to be a "debbie downer"

Haha, I didn't take it that way at all, man. You posed a legitimate question about resetting the ECU and losing learned values, for sure. It's definitely something I thought about. See, great minds do think alike! Haha.

[ern-diz]

So cool to hear/see. The car looks great and I can only imagine how much more fun it is to drive over stock. Hopefully given enough time/data, you'll sort the remaining bugs, but it doesn't sound like they're all that bad.

[06YarisRS]

So cool to hear/see. The car looks great and I can only imagine how much more fun it is to drive over stock. Hopefully given enough time/data, you'll sort the remaining bugs, but it doesn't sound like they're all that bad.

Yeah, it's fun for sure. I went for a long highway drive this evening and tried out the cruise control. I did get the occasional buck and sweep of the AFR gauge under a certain load and rpm. I eliminated it with the addition of some fuel, but I'm going to solder in the 2.2K resistor because it's sounding a bit like the issue the Scion cars had. Enriching the fuel map cell helps but I think I may have a little glitch in the timing around 3500 and certain other factors associated with a dirty signal. All the Boomslang harnesses have the resistors wired in.

I decided to pull a second gear WOT acceleration this evening. I poured into the throttle at about 30 kmh and the front wheels- more likely 1 wheel - lit up and spun as it entered third gear. Third is the 'funnest' gear as it pulls very hard and long, relatively speaking. I did this pull as I wanted to observe the speedometer to ensure I'm not getting any clutch slippage. The speedo jumped rapidly with tach, so I think I'm good there. This thing would kill with an LSD. It accelerates very hard once it's up over 50 - 60 kmh. Below that it wants to spin like crazy at near full boost. Although the auto is doing quite well, expect it will eventually pack it in even though I wont often be driving like I described above. If/when it dies - or starts to fail - a manual with upgraded clutch will likely replace it. I'd really like a 6-speed.

[WeeYari]

Would love to have my ass in the seat of that car.

Use your new found power responsibly and the tranny should serve you well.

[CrankyOldMan]

Victory!

[Leegamer]

Would love to have my ass in the seat of that car.

Use your new found power responsibly and the tranny should serve you well.

Responsibility is overrated, lol

[tmontague]

Responsibility is overrated, lol

Bahah Yaris a/t's are cheap and easy to come by from a wreckers, I say go nuts!

FWIW you may want to swap out your trans fluid for a performance grade fluid like Amsoil or other. May give you some longer life from your trans should you grow an heavy foot!

[06YarisRS]

Would love to have my ass in the seat of that car.

Use your new found power responsibly and the tranny should serve you well.

Visit the Maritimes and you can drive it yourself, WeeYari!

[06YarisRS]

Victory!

Yeeeaaahhhh!!! So far anyway. Lol.

[06YarisRS]

Victory!

Responsibility is overrated, lol

It does dampen the fun a bit. Lol

[06YarisRS]

Bahah Yaris a/t's are cheap and easy to come by from a wreckers, I say go nuts!

FWIW you may want to swap out your trans fluid for a performance grade fluid like Amsoil or other. May give you some longer life from your trans should you grow an heavy foot!

That's the attitude. Lol. And, you're bang on about the trannies being cheap. I found one a while back on ebay that was from a wreck, something like 18000 miles on it for around $300.00 usd plus shipping.

I've always been an OEM trans fluid guy, especially after owning a Grand Caravan. It was ATF+4 or nothing. So, it's established that a good performance fluid would be perfectly compatible with the auto? Because, I would hands-down swap out the fluid for its superior properties if it was truly compatible in both the short and long term.

[tmontague]

That's the attitude. Lol. And, you're bang on about the trannies being cheap. I found one a while back on ebay that was from a wreck, something like 18000 miles on it for around $300.00 usd plus shipping.

I've always been an OEM trans fluid guy, especially after owning a Grand Caravan. It was ATF+4 or nothing. So, it's established that a good performance fluid would be perfectly compatible with the auto? Because, I would hands-down swap out the fluid for its superior properties if it was truly compatible in both the short and long term.

nothing wrong with OE fluids but your car is far from OE spec, not only with the bigger engine but the turbo as well. You likely will be fine with regular fluid changes as you have a cooler but I'm thinking more in the area of shear resistance from a better fluid.

OE spec fluid would meet sheer requirements the trans would face with the stock engine, in your case the clutches are working over time and I think a more sheer stable fluid would be some extra insurance. I have never heard of an issue with Toyota trans running Amsoil or even other fluid like Maxlife - they don't seem to be very sensitive to fluids as long as the fluid states it is compatible.

I personally always flush my used Toyota's with Maxlife simply because it is well priced and available locally to me. According to BITOG it is a pretty robust ATF and has always run well in my Toyota's (and Subaru's) that I have put a lot of mileage on. If I was in your situation I would likely go with an Amsoil product but it may be overkill. Just something to think about. If you are good with your fluid changes then you likely will never have to worry:thumbsup:

[06YarisRS]

nothing wrong with OE fluids but your car is far from OE spec, not only with the bigger engine but the turbo as well. You likely will be fine with regular fluid changes as you have a cooler but I'm thinking more in the area of shear resistance from a better fluid.

OE spec fluid would meet sheer requirements the trans would face with the stock engine, in your case the clutches are working over time and I think a more sheer stable fluid would be some extra insurance. I have never heard of an issue with Toyota trans running Amsoil or even other fluid like Maxlife - they don't seem to be very sensitive to fluids as long as the fluid states it is compatible.

I personally always flush my used Toyota's with Maxlife simply because it is well priced and available locally to me. According to BITOG it is a pretty robust ATF and has always run well in my Toyota's (and Subaru's) that I have put a lot of mileage on. If I was in your situation I would likely go with an Amsoil product but it may be overkill. Just something to think about. If you are good with your fluid changes then you likely will never have to worry:thumbsup:

Great info, Trevor. I'll definitely consider the use of a quality aftermarket fluid. The Amsoil might have a slight edge on the Valvoline product, but, like you say, maybe overkill. I plan to do some reading on the products. The fluid in my car is quite fresh. It's had a recent drain and fills and a couple more before that within the last 20 or 30K kms. I've also been considering the purchase of a performance valve body. It might be a very good first upgrade and one that should be fairly easy as it could be done without the need to drop the trans. Going to do some more reading on that too.

[06YarisRS]

Tune and oil filters (random)

I haven't been completely happy with the tune from the tuner. Yesterday I was getting some erratic AFRs and a bit of bucking at "high speed" cruise. I call high speed cruise around 130 - 140 km/h. I decided to upload the basemap to the FIC and give it a run. The car worked much better. I did have a very slight buck at around 120 km/h on a slight incline at part throttle. This time though, it went rich and bogged. So, I leaned it out a bit and then drove for a good hour up and down hills, different speeds and it worked great. AFRs remained reasonable steady and I'm getting 11.5:1 at WOT. I still have to install the 2.2K ohm resistor on the crank signal wire and hope to do that this weekend.

Oil and oil filters.

Walmart USA has SuperTech Full Syn on at $14.97 a jug. I have to take my daughter to events in St. Stephen next to the border two nights a week. I have an hour to kill, so I go across each time and grab a jug and a filter each time. Being a cheapskate and all, I avoid duty this way. I also get to fill up with Shell V-Power 93 while I'm there.

Just for fun, for you 2ZR folks, which filter would you buy and why? The SuperTech is $2.97, the Fram and the K&N are ~ $4.50 each. If you tell me your choice and reasoning, I'll tell you which one I bought and why. :clap: Play along if you're bored.

https://i.imgur.com/LlrZqAw.jpg?1

[CrankyOldMan]

Just for fun, for you 2ZR folks, which filter would you buy and why? The SuperTech is $2.97, the Fram and the K&N are ~ $4.50 each. If you tell me your choice and reasoning, I'll tell you which one I bought and why. :clap: Play along if you're bored.

Doesn't answer your question but I have several Toyotas and it just made sense for me to swap the cartridge setup for the traditional can style. Now all of my 'Yotas use the same one. The Vibe is possibly going to get the swap as well since it's also a 2ZR.

[myfirstyota]

I just use Toyota filters. Gotta be good enough right?

I have used the fram filters on the beater before. Sometimes I just can't get to the dealer with their hours and my work schedule. I've never noticed anything horrible about them like a lot of people say. 340,000km and still purrs like a kitten.

[thebarber]

sexy outcome (all of it)

[06YarisRS]

Doesn't answer your question but I have several Toyotas and it just made sense for me to swap the cartridge setup for the traditional can style. Now all of my 'Yotas use the same one. The Vibe is possibly going to get the swap as well since it's also a 2ZR.

Yes, I've definitely been considering switching to the screw on can setup. I think the adapter is around $80.00 USD plus shipping. Probably $500.00 at the local dealer. Afterall, they wanted close to $500.00 for a vehicle speed sensor. :eek:

[06YarisRS]

I just use Toyota filters. Gotta be good enough right?

I have used the fram filters on the beater before. Sometimes I just can't get to the dealer with their hours and my work schedule. I've never noticed anything horrible about them like a lot of people say. 340,000km and still purrs like a kitten.

Damn straight about Toyota filters.

I used Fram all throughout my early automotive years, long before I'd heard about the unsubstanitated "orange can of death" lore. Never had one single issue, cardboard end caps or not, and I often had very long OCIs.

[06YarisRS]

sexy outcome (all of it)

Oooh yeah! So, who bought the Blitz? Just kidding/respecting privacy. Though, hopefully whomever did will make it known! Haha

[06YarisRS]

Just for fun, for you 2ZR folks, which filter would you buy and why? The SuperTech is $2.97, the Fram and the K&N are ~ $4.50 each. If you tell me your choice and reasoning, I'll tell you which one I bought and why. :clap: Play along if you're bored.

https://i.imgur.com/LlrZqAw.jpg?1

I feel a little silly quoting myself, but I went for the K&N, not because I'm a big fan, but because it had seemingly the largest surface area, although very close to the Fram, and it's supposed to be very high flow media. With the turbo, I'd like the most oil possible pumping through the system. I've heard good things about the SuperTech filters and wouldn't normally hesitate to use one, but it looks like it might be a little restrictive given how much of the media the end caps cover.

[06YarisRS]

Some positive developments

I always hate to say that something is definitively fixed. Or, that I've finally solved something or other, as I've learned that with these types of extreme modifications, there are really no 'for sures' or 'finallys'

But, I installed the 2.2 K Ohm resistor between crank mag + and -. Scions and Toyota's using the AEM F/IC often suffer from a dirty crank and cam sensor signal that freaks the F/IC out and it messes with (probably pulls) timing resulting in bucking at part throttle under low boost, or in the transition between boost and vacuum, I believe. In many cases these dirty signals have been known to mess with the idle as well.

I have driven the car for a good hour and a half and have zero bucking. I will qualify this by saying that I didn't get out on the highway where I was experiencing some bucking at around 130 km/h at a certain load. However, the slight bucking that I experienced at lower speeds and loads is gone (for now). Tomorrow I will get out on the highway and test. I may have to re adjust my fuel table as I made changes before the resistor install.

Idle: after 1.5 hours driving, sitting and idling (for numerous periods of time) in park, neutral and in gear with every accessory turned on, I experienced not one buck or idle fluctuation. Once the car hits operating temp it settles down at idle to around 600 rpm and is rock steady. The car also starts as soon as the ignition is turned.

Anyway, it looks good, but, again, I'm not holding by breath.

resistor soldered in

https://i.imgur.com/mZ5Pxpp.jpg

A Torque bonus

I was scanning through the available sensors and hadn't noticed before that an available PID is B1S1 CAT Temp and B1S2 CAT Temp. This is awesome as I can get a fair sense of my EGTs. The middle 2 gauges are B1S1 CAT Temp (top) and B1S2 CAT Temp (bottom). This is a great find. In this pic, the downstream 02 sensor hadn't reached operating temps so the voltage remained at 0.1V. As soon as I drove a bit, it came to life. I had been getting the occasional P0420 (Catalyst Inefficiency) code but I think it was due to the car bucking, going extremely lean and/or extremely rich under different conditions, shooting the 02 sensor voltage out of range. I will run the car for a bit and if the code returns, I'll just add a spark plug defouler, pulling the 02 sensor a back a touch out of the exhaust stream.

Anyway, at idle, I'm getting around 800 F EGT, around 1000 at cruise and after several good, but short boost sessions, I reached a max of around 1200 - 1300F. Keeping in mind that the temp is being taken after the turbo which I've read can be a couple hundred degrees cooler. So, that still seems good, not too high. Apparently many aftermarket EGT gauges start their redline around 1600F.

https://i.imgur.com/83tU50v.jpg

Car idling great

https://i.imgur.com/3twxWWN.jpg

[tmontague]

Excellent to hear, I hope it stays this way.

FWIW I monitored O2 sensor temp last year using my ultra gauge, I don't remember if it was s1 or s2 but it read between 1000F and 1400F+ if I really got on it.

Be careful about using a spark plug defoulders with the p0420. I tried that on my 3.6R subie and I ended up eventually triggering 2 or 3 other O2 codes due to voltage and slow response time - although the original p0420 never came back during the defoulder install. I also confirmed via fuel trims that is was messing with the fueling a bit.

I remember you mentioning the secondary O2 sensors in newer cars actually having an effect on fueling and looks like you were bang on. You can use O2 sensor voltage to diagnose if it is in fact a bad catylitic converter or not via watching its waveform or just careful monitoring of its voltage while on quiet back roads.

How exactly does the resistor work? I'm curious based on how it is wired in, what does it actually do to the wires.

[06YarisRS]

Excellent to hear, I hope it stays this way.

FWIW I monitored O2 sensor temp last year using my ultra gauge, I don't remember if it was s1 or s2 but it read between 1000F and 1400F+ if I really got on it.

Be careful about using a spark plug defoulders with the p0420. I tried that on my 3.6R subie and I ended up eventually triggering 2 or 3 other O2 codes due to voltage and slow response time - although the original p0420 never came back during the defoulder install. I also confirmed via fuel trims that is was messing with the fueling a bit.

I remember you mentioning the secondary O2 sensors in newer cars actually having an effect on fueling and looks like you were bang on. You can use O2 sensor voltage to diagnose if it is in fact a bad catylitic converter or not via watching its waveform or just careful monitoring of its voltage while on quiet back roads.

How exactly does the resistor work? I'm curious based on how it is wired in, what does it actually do to the wires.

Yeah, I hope it keeps working well. I'll know a bit later today as I'll be going for a good highway run.

EGTs:

I did some more reading on EGTs vs 02 sensors for monitoring data on temps. Most of what's available on the net regarding EGTs is referring to diesels. However, it is commonly accepted that EGTs should be monitored pre turbo (in the exhaust manifold). A portion (probably a significant amount) of the heat from the exhaust manifold is converted into mechanical energy spinning the turbine. This would account for a lower reading post turbo. I did take my 2008 (completely stock) Yaris out and monitored the CAT B1S1 temps as a comparison. I didn't see any significant temp differences between the two cars. Both were somewhere around 1000 when cruising and around 1300 - 1350 ish when being driven moderately to hard. This makes me feel a bit better as actual EGTs should be within specification even given the different AFRs (stock vs turbo tuned). Then again, maybe my EGTs are actually higher in the turbo car as the stock Yaris's 02 sensor is closer to the manifold and doesn't have a turbo infront of it. As an indirect comparison, the CAT temps on my Kia Sedona run as high as 1500s - 1600s and have ever since owning it. It's never had any issues. I am not ruling out the installation of an actual EGT sensor and gauge. Nor am I ruling out water or water/meth injection or a an intercooler misting system. That said, my intake temps are quite low and I never plan on going full boost immediately after sitting in bumper to bumper traffic in the summer. I'm also running Shell V-Power 93 and a fairly low boost. And, although I do go into boost fairly often, it is rarely sustained for longer than 7 - 8 seconds. I'm no engineer but even though EGTs can spike quickly, I think the actual head, pistons, valves etc would require a little more time to get hot enough to melt. I plan to do a bit of reading on heat soak and EGTs. Another thing I'm going to look into is moving my intake a bit lower and possibly toward or into the area in front of the wheel well a bit.

Defoulers:

Yes, installing a defouler may well adversely affect AFRs. I would start by installing only one as opposed to two. Before I did the swap or turbo, I had a code, I think it was the P0420 as a local mechanic removed my primary CAT. I installed the defoulers and ran that right up until the swap with no codes or adverse effects. Even if I do try this and it messes a bit with AFRs, I expect that my ECU will be able to compensate by adjusting trims. Some day, I'm going to tackle the 02 spoofing feature of the F/IC. I can adjust voltages tricking the ECU to target a non-stoich AFR without knowing it. I guess they had limited success with this though across a number of applications at turbokits.com. Doesn't mean I won't try it eventually though. I'd sure love to have more control of fueling in closed loop. I was looking at the Haltech ECUs again and they offer closed loop fueling, but they are standalones, so god knows what other issues I might run into with such things as DBW and peripherals.

Resistor:

I don't really understand how it works wired that way as I'm very weak knowledge-wise in the electrical department. The best explanaton I could find is from a post by member Vitigo on scionlife. He says, "... to pull down the voltage I need to connect the resistor to ground. thats why you guys do on you tc is that, connect the resistor to the + to - so you can pull down the voltage on the + side."

[06YarisRS]

A Real Buck Fest... :eek:

I did my highway drive today and it was like riding a bucking bronco at around 130Km/h with wild AFR swings under moderate throttle, accelerating. I had made fuel changes to the base map that comes with the kit before I installed the resistor. Figuring that these changes were adversely interacting with the resistor install (timing), I uploaded a fresh copy of the F/IC cal. file. I had some very minor bucking at a specific area of the fuel map. But this time I tried something different. Rather than tweaking the fuel map using AFRs, I used fuel trims data. When the bucking occured, I would see the ECU pull 20 - 25% fuel. It was going extremely rich causing the car to bog. When it jumped to an adjacent fuel cell, it would go stoich or slightly lean and the ECU would dump fuel in. This is what was causing the wild AFR swings. I found a long hill, set my cruise control so that I could maintain the load and rpm where the bucking was happening and the trims showed fuel being pulled. I pulled a tiny bit of fuel from those cells and, bingo, fuel trims stabilized. I kept working the map and in almost all sections of the fuel map, now, I rarely see more that 2 - 3% short term fuel trim correction and it's often at 0.0%. It is a significant understatement to say that miniscule adjustments in the fuel map produce massive changes in AFR! Tenth's of a percent can radically affect fuel ratios, it seems. I had no idea it was that sensitive. I can only imagine how much work it was to create that basemap in the first place. Of course, those guys aren't starting from zero in the knowledge department like I am. I am beginning to wonder if there are slight differences in the fueling strategies between the Corolla (for which this kit and base map were developed) and the Scion xD ECU which might account for the tune/performance abnormalities.

So, for now, I have no idle stalling (prefect idle, under full accessory and gear load or no load in neutral or park) and no bucking at any highway speeds/loads. Fingers crossed that these settings stay and that the car continues to drive smoothly. I did a good hour or two driving under all conditions and it was like driving a stock car, except with a heck of a lot more power. :thumbup: If things start to go awry, I am going to do more reading on standalone ECUs, O2 sensor spoofing or removing my wideband O2 sensor and going full open loop, custom maps (if it's possible) with this car.

I still have to tighten my wastegate flapper and try to ring another 2 - 2.5 psi out of the turbo. I'm waiting until my fender liner arrives to jack the car up. When I reinstalled the lower engine covers, I was in a hurry and missed attaching the front of the wheel well liner and burned a hole through it on the highway. It was definitely a panic moment as I heard this awful scraping sound and started to smell burning plastic. I was pretty relieved to see that it was just the wheel well liner.

[ern-diz]

Sooo interesting to read/learn about.

[06YarisRS]

Sooo interesting to read/learn about.

Super glad you're enjoying it, ern-diz. It's been a long process and it's not over yet. Always something to explore, but such a joy to drive. I would have no hesitation taking this car on a long road trip and using it as a daily driver. Yesterday I did quite a bit of driving both in town and highway. I had perfect, flawless and smooth idle, zero hesitation or bucking under any conditions, immediate throttle response under all conditions.

[ern-diz]

Super glad you're enjoying it, ern-diz. It's been a long process and it's not over yet. Always something to explore, but such a joy to drive. I would have no hesitation taking this car on a long road trip and using it as a daily driver. Yesterday I did quite a bit of driving both in town and highway. I had perfect, flawless and smooth idle, zero hesitation or bucking under any conditions, immediate throttle response under all conditions.

Awesome accomplishment. Hat's off!

[Leegamer]

It is all very interesting and looks like an unbelievable challenge. Following this thread has cemented my opinion that standalone is the best option for such a setup, though potentially much more expensive.

Still very impressive that you have gotten it to operate so well with a stock ECU and piggyback.

[06YarisRS]

Thanks gents! It has been a challenge but for now, one that was worth it. Time will tell. LOL.

Leegamer, yes, the standalone is a very attractive option and actually I could have gotten a Haltech Elite 550 in the $800 - $900.00 range and I think it supports DBW. I have not yet done enough research on the unit to know definitively if I could maintain all of my other accessories/peripherals. Also, the TCM is built into the stock ECU as far as I know, so not sure what would be involved with that. The HUGE advantage, in my opinion, would the ability to control closed loop fueling.

[eTiMaGo]

Thanks gents! It has been a challenge but for now, one that was worth it. Time will tell. LOL.

Leegamer, yes, the standalone is a very attractive option and actually I could have gotten a Haltech Elite 550 in the $800 - $900.00 range and I think it supports DBW. I have not yet done enough research on the unit to know definitively if I could maintain all of my other accessories/peripherals. Also, the TCM is built into the stock ECU as far as I know, so not sure what would be involved with that. The HUGE advantage, in my opinion, would the ability to control closed loop fueling.

Sadly for DBW you need a 1500 or above, looked into these too, but beyond my budget :(

You should look into ECUMaster, they make really well-featured units for some really good prices, there's a good chance I will be getting one of these.

[06YarisRS]

Sadly for DBW you need a 1500 or above, looked into these too, but beyond my budget :(

You should look into ECUMaster, they make really well-featured units for some really good prices, there's a good chance I will be getting one of these.

Thanks! Yeah, the 1500 is getting up there. A serious amount of cash to drop for one part of build, for sure. I will definitely have a look at the ECUMaster.

[tmontague]

Sadly for DBW you need a 1500 or above, looked into these too, but beyond my budget :(

You should look into ECUMaster, they make really well-featured units for some really good prices, there's a good chance I will be getting one of these.

I've been looking at their ECU's and they seem well priced.

Does anyone know if you can essentially run a non drive by wire standalone ECU while leaving the factory ECU only connected to the throttle and maf sensor?

My hvac is all gone and as far as I know the only thing I would need is the maf sensor reading for throttle control for the factory ECU to still work

[06YarisRS]

Does anyone know if you can essentially run a non drive by wire standalone ECU while leaving the factory ECU only connected to the throttle and maf sensor?


I was wondering this precise thing this morning. It would be nice and a cost savings too probably. But, I'd hate to be the one to try it out. Lol. The ECUMaster Black looks like quite a feature-rich computer and for around a grand, not out of reach necessarily.

Right now my car is running great. I REALLY want closed loop fueling control, though.

[tmontague]

I was wondering this precise thing this morning. It would be nice and a cost savings too probably. But, I'd hate to be the one to try it out. Lol. The ECUMaster Black looks like quite a feature-rich computer and for around a grand, not out of reach necessarily.

Right now my car is running great. I REALLY want closed loop fueling control, though.

I agree, I just checked out their website and they have an ecu that can control drive by wire. However I just realized that the stock ECU controls the rad fan as well on my car. I'd have to wire in a control for that if I wanted to fully scrap the factory ecu. Not something I necessarily feel I need to do right away although I dint think it would be a bad idea

[06YarisRS]

I want...

https://www.ecumaster.com/products/emu-black/

[eTiMaGo]

I agree, I just checked out their website and they have an ecu that can control drive by wire. However I just realized that the stock ECU controls the rad fan as well on my car. I'd have to wire in a control for that if I wanted to fully scrap the factory ecu. Not something I necessarily feel I need to do right away although I dint think it would be a bad idea

I believe you could use one of the generic outputs and a relay to do a simple on/off control for the fans?

[eTiMaGo]

I want...

https://www.ecumaster.com/products/emu-black/

I'm already talking with the local distributor and official tuner, they're up to the challenge :)

Problem is, they are pretty far away from me, a good hour's drive (that's far, for us who live in small countries!)

[06YarisRS]

I'm already talking with the local distributor and official tuner, they're up to the challenge :)

Problem is, they are pretty far away from me, a good hour's drive (that's far, for us who live in small countries!)

Very exciting. Will definitely be following this.

I did some reading on the 4A-GZE engine you have. Man, I would love one of those! Stock ready for 300HP! I can't wait to hear what you will ultimately be doing for forced induction and management on this car. This will be the bomb, for sure! :clap:

[06YarisRS]

Oil catch can ugliness and a little hoist action...

I drained the catch can today. I would say that I have run two to three full tanks of 93 through the car since I last checked the catch can. There wasn't much in the can, maybe 3 - 4 mL, but it's pretty stinky. LOL. I thought I detected a green tinge and for a second I panicked, thinking that I had coolant in there. I quickly recalled that Toyota coolant is pink. Just to be safe, I checked the coolant and it's pink and crystal clear. Checked the oil too and it's super clean and still clear with probably 2000 - 3000 kms on it. I was across the border gassing up with 93 again today and picked up another 2 jugs of SuperTech Full Syn. Great Rollback at $14.39 a jug. I'll do another oil change soon. Sadly, in about another month, my baby will have to be tucked away for winter. I'm having so much fun blasting about.

Contents of catch can. Sure glad that wasn't atomized and sent back into the cylinders.

https://i.imgur.com/pFroBb4.jpg

I'm teaching the Internal Combustion Engines 110 at our school this semester. Unbeliveably, I am the most knowledgeable staff member when it comes to mechanics. Scary, I know and a sad statement on education in our province. Haha. However, we've just finished the 4-stroke process and I've been using my little buggy to explain induction systems. The kids love it and of course are always trying to get me to go into boost on the road in front of our shop. A quick way to lose my job. :laugh:

I had the car up on the drive-on as I had been smelling exhaust in the cabin. My downpipe was a touch loose and one stud was missing. I replaced it with a M8x 1.25 bolt and lock washer instead of a stud and nut. I also picked up a stud and nut too incase the bolt decides to back out. The irony of it all: you want a bolt/stud to come out and it will resist or break. You want it to stay in and it wants to come out.

https://i.imgur.com/uNqHj16.jpg

[eTiMaGo]

Very exciting. Will definitely be following this.

I did some reading on the 4A-GZE engine you have. Man, I would love one of those! Stock ready for 300HP! I can't wait to hear what you will ultimately be doing for forced induction and management on this car. This will be the bomb, for sure! :clap:

Yeah, one of those good ol' over-engineered masterpieces that Toyota was once famous for :biggrin: I probably won't push more than 250hp, at least until I get an LSD in there (and a 6-speed transmission as well, why not?)

It is pretty old-school though, with dual wasted-spark igniters for the ignition, and no VVT-i :eek: I'm most likely going to modernize it a bit with a DBW conversion, as well as coilpacks for the ignition. Not to mention full E85 support, as we can easily get this magical juice here.

[06YarisRS]

Yeah, one of those good ol' over-engineered masterpieces that Toyota was once famous for :biggrin: I probably won't push more than 250hp, at least until I get an LSD in there (and a 6-speed transmission as well, why not?)

It is pretty old-school though, with dual wasted-spark igniters for the ignition, and no VVT-i :eek: I'm most likely going to modernize it a bit with a DBW conversion, as well as coilpacks for the ignition. Not to mention full E85 support, as we can easily get this magical juice here.

Haha, wouldn't "old school" make it easier from a modification standpoint? This car is going to be legendary. 250hp with a 6-speed and LSD will be outstanding. Even with my relatively low power output, I would seriously benefit from an LSD. When Tom first put his car up for sale, I really should have considered finding a way to acquire his trans - or his whole car and using parts from it for a conversion to manual. Missed opportunities!

I have basically no knowledge about E85 other than its resistance to knock in high compression situations.

[eTiMaGo]

Old-school is easier, sure, less variables to tune. But that also means less chances to improve power at both low and high-ends...

The 6-speed and LSD are more of a long-term wish. I'd really want the 6th gear for cruising at lower RPM. Due to the very tight packaging in the engine bay, I may not be able to fit the slightly larger transmission.

E85 behaves like very high-octane race fuel, in a nutshell. Increased detonation resistance is the main advantage, you can dial up the boost and ignition quite a lot.

I also personally like that it is locally-produced, so there is less pollution related to transporting crude oil, and it also burns cleaner than dino soup.

But it has some drawbacks:
1) 30% lower energy by volume. So you basically need to flow 30% more fuel for the same power output. Injectors and fuel pumps need to be sized accordingly (I'm looking at 1000cc injectors to have a bit of headroom), and a tank will not take you as far as regular gasoline.
2) Ethanol is hygroscopic (it slowly absorbs moisture). So, if you don't drive very often, youu may need to get your tank emptied and refilled. (Also a nasty side effect, the moisture eventually ends up in your oil, so more frequent changes are recommended)
3) Cost. In some countries, E85 is WAY cheaper than gasoline. Over here, it's only about 30% less than premium, so at the end of the day, your cost/mile is about the same

Anyway as you might tell, I am quite a proponent of the stuff :biggrin:

A nice little primer for the stuff:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltWcgiCm4NY

[06YarisRS]

Old-school is easier, sure, less variables to tune. But that also means less chances to improve power at both low and high-ends...

The 6-speed and LSD are more of a long-term wish. I'd really want the 6th gear for cruising at lower RPM. Due to the very tight packaging in the engine bay, I may not be able to fit the slightly larger transmission.

E85 behaves like very high-octane race fuel, in a nutshell. Increased detonation resistance is the main advantage, you can dial up the boost and ignition quite a lot.

I also personally like that it is locally-produced, so there is less pollution related to transporting crude oil, and it also burns cleaner than dino soup.

But it has some drawbacks:
1) 30% lower energy by volume. So you basically need to flow 30% more fuel for the same power output. Injectors and fuel pumps need to be sized accordingly (I'm looking at 1000cc injectors to have a bit of headroom), and a tank will not take you as far as regular gasoline.
2) Ethanol is hygroscopic (it slowly absorbs moisture). So, if you don't drive very often, youu may need to get your tank emptied and refilled. (Also a nasty side effect, the moisture eventually ends up in your oil, so more frequent changes are recommended)
3) Cost. In some countries, E85 is WAY cheaper than gasoline. Over here, it's only about 30% less than premium, so at the end of the day, your cost/mile is about the same

Anyway as you might tell, I am quite a proponent of the stuff :biggrin:

A nice little primer for the stuff:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltWcgiCm4NY

Thanks! I love Mighty Car Mods. I did a bit of reading since my last post. I can definitely see why you'd be attracted to E85.

So, right now I'm running 93 octane and I'm getting intake temps around 60 - 80F and running about 14.5 AFR up to 3 - 4 pounds boost (ECU in closed loop). I only get AFR enrichment if I go pretty close to WOT. This is a drawback of the FIC. Do you think I'm ok at those temps? I do worry a bit due to the relatively high static compression of the engine, 10:1, I think. I know there are many variables and it would be difficult to really know for sure.

Turbokits.com apparently had mixed results with the 02 spoofing, tricking the computer into targeting a richer AFR during closed loop operations. I haven't started experimenting with this but may in the near future. I really should have listened to the first tuner who I spoke with and who definitely recommended standalone management.

[eTiMaGo]

Thanks! I love Mighty Car Mods. I did a bit of reading since my last post. I can definitely see why you'd be attracted to E85.

So, right now I'm running 93 octane and I'm getting intake temps around 60 - 80F and running about 14.5 AFR up to 3 - 4 pounds boost (ECU in closed loop). I only get AFR enrichment if I go pretty close to WOT. This is a drawback of the FIC. Do you think I'm ok at those temps? I do worry a bit due to the relatively high static compression of the engine, 10:1, I think. I know there are many variables and it would be difficult to really know for sure.

Turbokits.com apparently had mixed results with the 02 spoofing, tricking the computer into targeting a richer AFR during closed loop operations. I haven't started experimenting with this but may in the near future. I really should have listened to the first tuner who I spoke with and who definitely recommended standalone management.

Oof, I'm not sure I'm knowledgeable enough to answer you there... From what I gather, with premium fuel and not such a huge amount of boost, you should be OK... You have the advantage of not living in the hot, humid tropics too :D Does your engine have a knock sensor? If so, there should already be some mitigation built-in.

[06YarisRS]

Milk run tonight...

Here's a terrible quality video. I'll make a better one in the daytime. Max boost reached was ~5.5, so gotta get at the wastegate, plus lean up my AFRs at WOT. It is definitely a "safe" tune at WOT at around 10.5:1, so that could probably be leaned out a touch, like around 11.5, but I'll leave it as is for now, at least until I up my boost.

Anyway, it pulls hard and puts you back in your seat a bit. If I do mange to get up to 7 - 8 psi, it will be scary. Even now, I can't go WOT until about 30 - 40 km/h or the wheels will spin. It breaks loose in the video at around 50 km/h even if I ease into the throttle.

There's definitely more room for improvement, but it's a blast right now as it is. No WRX killer for sure, but if I get to my boost goal, I bet I would at least not totally embarrass myself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31SCdTGvBUE&fbclid=IwAR2gt0tUiYv48s4b-MFA-JfrwzgfIZ0uTt4gtULAvX_EFOId1fR8gZcZNvs

[06YarisRS]

Oof, I'm not sure I'm knowledgeable enough to answer you there... From what I gather, with premium fuel and not such a huge amount of boost, you should be OK... You have the advantage of not living in the hot, humid tropics too :D Does your engine have a knock sensor? If so, there should already be some mitigation built-in.

Yes, there are many variables to consider and every car, and every engine is different. I'm pretty sure I'm safe with 93 octane, low boost and cool charge temps. I rarely have to enter boost under normal driving conditions. I can easily sail up a long highway hill at 130 - 140km/h while still in vacuum. When I want full boost (which is now 6 - 6.5 after adjusting the wastegate eariler today) I go WOT and my mixtures are good and rich. My car does have a knock sensor, as far as I know.

[06YarisRS]

Adjusted wastegate yesterday. I gave the arm 2 turns. Boost is now steady 6 - 6.5 psi. At one point coming off a ramp on to the highway, I hit 7 psi. I'm going to give the wastegate another turn tomorrow. If I reach 7 - 7.5 psi, I will stop there. Soon I will do another video, but in the day this time since the night one turned out so crappy.

[06YarisRS]

8 psi!

I adjusted the wastegate again about two days ago and hadn't driven the car until today. There is a significant difference between 6 and 8 psi. Although the car pulled hard at 6, it's absolutely insane at 8 psi. Torque steer is becoming more apparent, but the car is easily controllable with a good drip on the wheel. Truthfully, I don't think I really understood how much of a difference preloading the wastegate could make. When I clocked the turbo, I had to remove the actuator, actuator arm extension and the actuator bracket. When I put it all back together, I don't think that I had shortened the arm to the preset length. I was a bit long. This was causing the wastegate to open quite a bit around 5 psi.

I'm definitely looking more seriously at performance tires. I think I will go with either a 195/55R15 or might press it a bit and go for a 205/50/15. I've been doing a lot of reading and although 205 is well out of spec for a 5.5" rim, a lot of guys have been using this size tire with that rim width. Some day I'll buy new wheels for the car as much as I'd hate to change the stock look. I have been pushing the 195s I have on the car quite a bit harder than my normal driving and I'm not noticing any performance issues, no sidewall roll or the like and that's with about the cheapest tires you could buy in that size. A performance tire with a stiffer side wall might allow me to go with the wider 205 tires. I also think that would enhance the look of the car significantly.

I'm still mulling over which performance brake pads to buy. The Hawks are currently at the top of my list. Also exploring the rotor options available for the car. I'm open to any opinions regarding rotors, slotted, slotted/drilled, drilled, blank and midrange pricing.

[CrankyOldMan]

More awesome news!!

Just be aware though, high performance summer tires lose grip at low temperatures, making them really unsafe. I haven't looked at high performance all seasons yet but that's a possibility.

[Leegamer]

Ok, so now that you're used to 8 PSI when is the built motor going in and getting fed 30 psi?

:eyebulge:

Seriously though, congrats...that's awesome that you're now beyond the limits of your tires and brakes now.

[06YarisRS]

More awesome news!!

Just be aware though, high performance summer tires lose grip at low temperatures, making them really unsafe. I haven't looked at high performance all seasons yet but that's a possibility.

I hadn't thought about that, Sam. Where I live it's always cooler than the surrounding areas as we're on the ocean. I also do a lot of driving in the fall, right up until the first snowfall. Maybe I really ought to be looking at performance all-season tire. Truthfully, I'm finding the current tires quite satisfactory but I'm really not pushing them to their limits. I'd be appreciative if you could make a suggestion of a brand of performance all- season tires that you feel would be good for all around handling, but that might be slightly more capable than a typical inexpensive tire. This of course, if you do investigate them for yourself. I did have a look at the Toyo Proxes TR1 tires in the 195/45R15 size. They look nice and can be had for a very good price

[06YarisRS]

Ok, so now that you're used to 8 PSI when is the built motor going in and getting fed 30 psi?

:eyebulge:

Seriously though, congrats...that's awesome that you're now beyond the limits of your tires and brakes now.

Haha, my thoughts exactly about an engine build! Not likely to happen anytime soon, but not out of the question either. Of course, then I'd definitely have to do something about my other drivetrain components.

With respect to being beyond the limits of my tires and brakes, the stock setup is quite acceptable, but the quick acceleration is making me want to push the car always harder on the windy roads around here. I just feel that before long, I am going to reach their limits. I'm not exactly sure where those limits are, but I know that I want to exceed them. :laugh:

[06YarisRS]

Extra Plugs

I picked up two sets of SC20HR11 plugs. I scored them for ~$13.00 a set. Since the SC16HR11 plugs are the OEM plug, I'm gonna just call the 20s 'one step colder', gap them to 0.28 and use them. I hope to pull my current plugs this week and have a look at them. They've been in the car for probably 8 - 10 thousand kms as I replaced them before I did the engine swap. They probably have 1000 -1500 kms on them since the turbo install.

https://i.imgur.com/bFXokeE.jpg?1

[tmontague]

I hadn't thought about that, Sam. Where I live it's always cooler than the surrounding areas as we're on the ocean. I also do a lot of driving in the fall, right up until the first snowfall. Maybe I really ought to be looking at performance all-season tire. Truthfully, I'm finding the current tires quite satisfactory but I'm really not pushing them to their limits. I'd be appreciative if you could make a suggestion of a brand of performance all- season tires that you feel would be good for all around handling, but that might be slightly more capable than a typical inexpensive tire. This of course, if you do investigate them for yourself. I did have a look at the Toyo Proxes TR1 tires in the 195/45R15 size. They look nice and can be had for a very good price

for your climate and how long you drive the car into the fall season I would recommend Continental Extreme Contact DWS. They are not the most performance oriented but it will allow you to get as much use out of them in a single year than any other performance oriented tire. FWIW the BFG sport comp 2's I have allegedly do well in cold temps as long as it isn't ice. I have never and will never test this out however. BFG does sell an a/s version of the sport comp 2's that are meant as a performance all season. They would be a competitor to the Conti's and both tires have great reviews.

A tire like the TR1 is likely more tire then you need or could really take advantage of at this point based on what you have said so far. It also won't let you drive your car as much throughout the year. A slightly less sticky tire will typically squeal earlier letting you know when you are close to its limits where as a more performance oriented tire squeal happens when you are virtually at the end of the limit and sometimes it is too late to catch if you are not experienced enough to catch it before it is too late.

[06YarisRS]

for your climate and how long you drive the car into the fall season I would recommend Continental Extreme Contact DWS. They are not the most performance oriented but it will allow you to get as much use out of them in a single year than any other performance oriented tire. FWIW the BFG sport comp 2's I have allegedly do well in cold temps as long as it isn't ice. I have never and will never test this out however. BFG does sell an a/s version of the sport comp 2's that are meant as a performance all season. They would be a competitor to the Conti's and both tires have great reviews.

A tire like the TR1 is likely more tire then you need or could really take advantage of at this point based on what you have said so far. It also won't let you drive your car as much throughout the year. A slightly less sticky tire will typically squeal earlier letting you know when you are close to its limits where as a more performance oriented tire squeal happens when you are virtually at the end of the limit and sometimes it is too late to catch if you are not experienced enough to catch it before it is too late.

Excellent info, Trevor. Yeah, I'm definitely looking for a balance of handling and ride quality. I don't think I need an extreme handling tire. The BFG Sport Com 2s do seem to come in a 15" size. Also seems to be the case for the Contis.

What are your thoughts on these tires? Nankang NS-25 All Season UHP in 205/55R15

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-New-Nankang-NS-25-All-Season-UHP-205-55R15-88V-SL-Tires/362780616836?fits=Aspect+Ratio%3A55%7CSection+Widt h%3A205%7CRim+Diameter%3A15&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item547768e884:g:aLYAAOSwgitdo5LW&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUqyRCYcdxNhacR fzlXF%2Fzu73ZkcOqDHs90MpfR9peJuZXdx9ehjNdxVrsBtjCJ UBCFagSj9mOaFZOWC%2FgnCfSa04fIfeCWDecK4ufYqlOGRzLE HmQvMjMoHmIgy%2F9mHCsnROB4HUQAGnm0%2FZxvjXiFoBshah W7XLSmH5hTerOv5fx4ocwUiizJ%2BMiuN8kbDftx8ssXyx%2Fp yjWCgcq5XgXHhQvkAdcGv6WoKGG7%2FrNW1u8tsZbFn8%2Fnyw KPGp5HWwgQhmlwo296%2FEWDM5Y00kc2RAbHUVt%2FpBiuiznK hui2KQLtOVxDHOkppjgr9d3aOicpxrlZgRQxY8H1SEuXJbTSg9 dSkrIsuWRrIsOykZ2M7xcGkJYBc12mOKi8FJ%2FhKF9B13DnEJ cZaDfHTbu70m65yQU7NygE9vvWu17%2BVCavX7qUQ4bKuNy9El SAib35usxmlGl2yxqpT%2Fu11ap%2BGhTGEHcvPP69jjEfa6lA LovnjFXhtvlUA762Np%2FJifTCFsoK5Rhxo1cB00enN2Blk6dO %2F4V5ZWMeLwG0P5RyGiBgp5yN7m%2FEuk5sEjjLeM05PnP2l% 2FCDMwnI2qTzGRjjRQuxhoCxVeX1Dk1z6G5KkcCx9cAq0rCNYU c2uyfYbf3YmcWakSdGQXM9uVxThU0PBJ4bmDDuRYm3CtZ9AShl biE%2B9h3IgkouDf66IB7tR900LtWT5xfU2MzyLqR0VuUoWuJb ZHphaUUC6cf0yOH9w9Sj8XLSQYfOZR5UVcMR%2BZ8Mtu0%3D&checksum=362780616836947343f6083d46f69c5308e659d21 418&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUqyRCYcdxNhacR fzlXF%2Fzu73ZkcOqDHs90MpfR9peJuZXdx9ehjNdxVrsBtjCJ UBCFagSj9mOaFZOWC%2FgnCfSa04fIfeCWDecK4ufYqlOGRzLE HmQvMjMoHmIgy%2F9mHCsnROB4HUQAGnm0%2FZxvjXiFoBshah W7XLSmH5hTerOv5fx4ocwUiizJ%2BMiuN8kbDftx8ssXyx%2Fp yjWCgcq5XgXHhQvkAdcGv6WoKGG7%2FrNW1u8tsZbFn8%2Fnyw KPGp5HWwgQhmlwo296%2FEWDM5Y00kc2RAbHUVt%2FpBiuiznK hui2KQLtOVxDHOkppjgr9d3aOicpxrlZgRQxY8H1SEuXJbTSg9 dSkrIsuWRrIsOykZ2M7xcGkJYBc12mOKi8FJ%2FhKF9B13DnEJ cZaDfHTbu70m65yQU7NygE9vvWu17%2BVCavX7qUQ4bKuNy9El SAib35usxmlGl2yxqpT%2Fu11ap%2BGhTGEHcvPP69jjEfa6lA LovnjFXhtvlUA762Np%2FJifTCFsoK5Rhxo1cB00enN2Blk6dO %2F4V5ZWMeLwG0P5RyGiBgp5yN7m%2FEuk5sEjjLeM05PnP2l% 2FCDMwnI2qTzGRjjRQuxhoCxVeX1Dk1z6G5KkcCx9cAq0rCNYU c2uyfYbf3YmcWakSdGQXM9uVxThU0PBJ4bmDDuRYm3CtZ9AShl biE%2B9h3IgkouDf66IB7tR900LtWT5xfU2MzyLqR0VuUoWuJb ZHphaUUC6cf0yOH9w9Sj8XLSQYfOZR5UVcMR%2BZ8Mtu0%3D&checksum=362780616836947343f6083d46f69c5308e659d21 418

Here is some feedback on the tires:

https://simpletire.com/Reviews/items_reviews/65/15305/ns-25-all-season-uhp

[06YarisRS]

Street Tuning
Well, more like highway tuning. I had been noticing that my AFRs were starting to lean out slightly under hard acceleration on the highway from about 100 km/h up. The car would start to lean to ~ 12.8:1 - 13.00:1 and then it would drop to 11.5 as WOT continued. Last night I brought my laptop on our short trip. My son had it on his lap and I had him tweak the fuel cells by adding fuel in the lean areas. We spent about 20 minutes under different WOT speeds and smoothed the map out. There's still a bit to do, but the leanest we saw under full throttle through the rev range was 12.0:1. He really enjoyed doing this. I was proud of my little man.

[ern-diz]

Street Tuning
Well, more like highway tuning. I had been noticing that my AFRs were starting to lean out slightly under hard acceleration on the highway from about 100 km/h up. The car would start to lean to ~ 12.8:1 - 13.00:1 and then it would drop to 11.5 as WOT continued. Last night I brought my laptop on our short trip. My son had it on his lap and I had him tweak the fuel cells by adding fuel in the lean areas. We spent about 20 minutes under different WOT speeds and smoothed the map out. There's still a bit to do, but the leanest we saw under full throttle through the rev range was 12.0:1. He really enjoyed doing this. I was proud of my little man.

Nice!

[Leegamer]

That's cool! Father-Son bonding FTW

[06YarisRS]

Yeah, gents, he really enjoyed it. I had colleague/buddy who's also a car enthusiast lined up to help me tune. I thought I'd see if my 10 year old wanted to give it a try and he jumped at the opportunity. It also helped that it involves a computer as he's majorly into those too.

[Leegamer]

Yeah, gents, he really enjoyed it. I had colleague/buddy who's also a car enthusiast lined up to help me tune. I thought I'd see if my 10 year old wanted to give it a try and he jumped at the opportunity. It also helped that it involves a computer as he's majorly into those too.

Show him some PFI Tuning videos on youtube, maybe he'll be the next big tuner! lol

[06YarisRS]

Show him some PFI Tuning videos on youtube, maybe he'll be the next big tuner! lol

I definitely will. You've got me intrigued too. :w00t:

[06YarisRS]

Merging onto the highway. Had a great time with the car today. I'm thinking I'll order a gopro or similar camera so I can actually make a decent video.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=80WPr7khL9k

[ern-diz]

Seems like she goes well!

[06YarisRS]

Seems like she goes well!

It does. It's more impressive in the car than on the video. Just for fun, I decided to try a similar pull - around 40 - 160 in my stock 2008 Yaris. I decided to let off at around 150 because it was taking so long. Lol. The turbo really pulls right up to 160 and would definitely keep going if I wasn't such a wimp. I'm close to redline at 160 with the pedal matted, but it goes into overdrive if I ease off slightly and drops to about 4000 rpm. Some day, I'll bring it up closer to 6000 rpm in OD. Pretty sure it would very easily bury the speedo.

[Leegamer]

It does. It's more impressive in the car than on the video. Just for fun, I decided to try a similar pull - around 40 - 160 in my stock 2008 Yaris. I decided to let off at around 150 because it was taking so long. Lol. The turbo really pulls right up to 160 and would definitely keep going if I wasn't such a wimp. I'm close to redline at 160 with the pedal matted, but it goes into overdrive if I ease off slightly and drops to about 4000 rpm. Some day, I'll bring it up closer to 6000 rpm in OD. Pretty sure it would very easily bury the speedo.

at first I thought you meant 160 MPH, then I remembered you're in Canada. :thumbup:

[06YarisRS]

at first I thought you meant 160 MPH, then I remembered you're in Canada. :thumbup:

Yeah, the good old metric system. 160 mph in a Yaris would be quite an experience. Didn't Team Tiamat(?) hit something like 155 mph in their sedan?

[Neinris]

Linked this thread in MCM... :D

https://youtu.be/ICi_8c8eK0s

[Neinris]

Weird... I don't see my post when I'm on the computer, but I can see it when I'm on my phone...

I said that they should do an engine swap then turbo it... then it will spank that Mira...

[06YarisRS]

Weird... I don't see my post when I'm on the computer, but I can see it when I'm on my phone...

I said that they should do an engine swap then turbo it... then it will spank that Mira...

Yeah, I think there is something weird going on as I'm pretty sure I replied to this yesterday. Anyway, I will check out the video soon.

[06YarisRS]

Got an HD Camera!

I picked up a used Ion Air Pro camera. It does ok, but I may invest in a better camera, capable of better quality/resolution.

The car is getting put away for winter in the next few days, but I've been tooting around in it as the roads are still salt free. Plus, the cold weather is awesome for intake temps. Still at 7 psi as I have yet to tweak the wastegate again. I'm actually considering leaving it where it is as it's just nasty and spins the wheels. Check out 1:46 in the video. It breaks loose at 80 km/h, spins to 100km/h so I let off on the throttle.

A couple links for ya gents. Theatre mode is best. If I get a better camera I'd like to shoot full HD 1080 at 60 fps.

Quick walk around:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6eJXEtcY0RQ

Out for a short spin:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFvwnmc09Qc

[myfirstyota]

...It breaks loose at 80 km/h, spins to 100km/h so I let off on the throttle....

So when's the lsd happening?!? Lol

[06YarisRS]

So when's the lsd happening?!? Lol

Haha, yeah, it could sure use one. I guess it would make more sense to wait until I (assuming I do) go with a manual trans. That said, I am sure enjoying the auto and it's no showing any signs that it's uncomfortable. Sometimes at almost full throttle it can't seem to decide it should be in 3rd or 4th, but at full it works predictably, shifts smoothly and seemingly at the right time. If I want to do a pull at say, 90% throttle, I'll just autostick it from 3rd to 4th and it works great.

[06YarisRS]

Engine Bay Tour

Here's one of the engine bay...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2HCcNXF28

[CrankyOldMan]

Haha, yeah, it could sure use one. I guess it would make more sense to wait until I (assuming I do) go with a manual trans.

Get in touch with ArmstrongRacing if you want parts for a gearbox build. He's in the process of liquidating the last of his stuff, you might be able to get a deal on some of it. Can't recall if he has a C50 LSD or not...