2ZR Turbo Yaris

[06YarisRS]

Because I tend to plunge foolishly headlong into things without really thinking, and I always feel compelled to mess with stuff, I just purchased the turbokits.com 2009+ Corolla (2ZR) Turbo kit. I don't expect to start this project for another month, or at least until my unheated garage is hospitable to work in.

Here is the kit:

https://www.turbokits.com/Toyota/Corolla/Turbo_Kits/TurboKits.com_Corolla_2ZR-FE_Turbo_Kit/1972/

I know that there will be folks that regard this as a bad idea; a risky proposition, but I'm forging forth. It will stretch my mechanical skills to the nth degree, it will be scary, frustrating and exciting at times. I am aware of the inherent risks associated with this project and I am willing to accept them. I think I've read every post in the forced Induction forum a few times - well maybe a little exaggeration. :rolleyes:

Although I have been doing extensive reading and still have much to learn, I have been doing a LOT of research on turbocharged applications, turbos, management, wiring, internal wastgates and actuators, fuel flow, AFRs, wideband sensors, detonation, preignition, fuel mapping, MAF clamping, timing, intercoolers, piping, BOVs etc. I have also been talking fairly extensively with the good folks at turbokits.com. Very helpful and knowledeable guys, that are in the business of retailing performance parts.

Turbo/Manifold Fitment: It appears that there is enough room between the head and firewall to accommodate the turbo. Modifications may be necessary. I'm mildly concerned about the proximity of the turbo turbine to the stock ECU and there may be some adaptations needed for the existing A/C lines. I guess all will be revealed once I try to mount the turbo!

Engine: I am fairly confident that my relatively new engine will handle a very mild boost of 6 - 7 psi as the unmodified (afaik) 2ZR Lotus Elise has a 6+ psi supercharger and produces around 217 HP. My goal would be close to, or less than that.

Transmission: The transmission may be another story. From what I gather (unconfirmed) though, the U340E (Yaris auto) and U341E (Corolla auto, Celica GT) are essentially the same transmisson with the exception of a difference in final drive ratio. The turbokits guys feel that the u340E should be safe up to close to 230 crank hp and have said that there are 1ZZ-powered Celica GTs out there with this transmission that are effectively running 250 hp without mechanical issues. I have doubts about this myself - certainly for any longevity of the transmission. Regardless, I plan to treat the car respectfully - no 0-60 WOT pulls, burnouts or brakestands - will rarely have much payload and certainly won't tow anything. One very knowledgeable YW member termed the u340E as "fairly robust".

Fueling: Fueling is another concern although the turbokits guys feel I should be fine. The only good specs I could find on pumps for the Yaris and Corolla applications are from Delphi (not sure who actually makes the pump in my car - maybe Denso? and neither could the Toyota dealer tell me). Delphi rates, believe it or not, the Yaris at 44 psi, 29 gl/hr, and the Corolla at 44psi, 26 gl/hr and, if memory serves me correctly, both pumps have 5/16" outlets. It's a bit confusing however as the Yaris' pump is rated at 4 amps and the Corolla at 6 amps. Flow rates are probably "free flow", so not sure how valuable those number are. I've been using this calculator below, but I definitely have more work to do. The esteemed, yet unnamed, YW member to whom I referred earlier also stated that the Yaris fuel pump is good up to about 10 psi of boost, of course that's on a 1NZ, not a 2ZR. So, maybe 6 -7 pounds with the 2ZR is achievable, but I suspect it would be risky, especially at the higher fuel/air ratio needed for cooling at the top end of my boost level.

https://www.deatschwerks.com/fuel-calculators/fuel-pump-calculator

Engine Management Wiring: I have created diagrams of the wiring [Crank, Cams (intake and exhaust), injectors, MAF, AFR etc] that I believe are appropriate for the AEM FIC (30-1910) 'piggyback' and would post them if anyone is interested and/or willing to weigh in on my proposed wiring. DBW would be controlled by the stock ECU and according to the tuner I've been speaking with, likely the timing could also be handled by the stock ECU.


FMIC, intercooler and charge piping: Since the Corolla is obviously dimensionally greater, I'm reasonably confident - after extensive exploration of the yaris engine bay - that I can adapt the piping to fit the Yaris with a small array of couplers, T-clamps, a chop saw and my soon-to-be-homemade bead roller tool.

Engine Cooling: From what I've read here at YW, low boost applications in the Yaris (with the 1NZ) are acceptable for the stock cooling system. An upgraded fan may be necessary, maybe even a radiator upgrade. For a brief moment, I consider meth injection and a non-intercooler setup. Anyway, I guess all will become apparent when tuning. I also have the ability to monitor several sensors via OBD2 and my torque app on my 7" touchscreen. Some of the sensors include: Boost/manifold presure, AFR, STFT, LTFT, injector pulse width (not duty cycle, but the FIC software can read and display this via my laptop), engine coolant temp. I will look toward purchasing and installing oil pressure and oil temp gauges.

Exhaust: Who knows. This will be completed by the outfit that will ultimately tune the car. I expect that it will involve hacking up my new and existing xD midpipe, increasing the tubing to probably 2.25" - 2.5" pipe from resonator back to my Megan axleback.

So, this is my planned project, crazy or not. I did some research before coming on YW and this is partially because I want to look - at least a little bit - like I've thought this through and maybe more importantly, because I so greatly respect many YW members and specifically those who helped me as I muddled through my engine swap. Some of these guys might be shaking their heads as they read this post, but I sure hope they are interested enough in this project to 'get involved' and offer advice and constructive criticism as needed. Of course, if I've missed anything critical from the get-go, please jump right in and let me know.

The kit:

https://i.imgur.com/gBlyHhf.jpg

[tmontague]

Awesome stuff man, I'll be following this closely.

My only concern would be the standalone ecu. There have been reports of the 2nd gens and newer ecu's relearning and ruining the tune. I haven't read any first hand experience online but I do think it could he a potential issue.

A standalone would be the way to solve that potential problem albeit at a higher cost

Your stock radiator should handle the cooling fine. It will only become an issue at prolonged time at high load/high rpm (>15mins)

[06YarisRS]

Hey Trevor. Thanks for jumping in. I did consider a standalone ECU such as the Haltech Elite 550 and the EMS-4, but there were concerns about the handling of peripherals, if I recall, DBW was one. I believe I read that issues related to loss of tune were related to not skewing 02 sensor data. That said, maybe there is a issue with the ECUs you refer to. Since I am running a 2008 xD ECU, I may well encounter issues. The turbokits.com guys say that the tunes are completely stable but I guess we shall see. Maybe in the end, a standalone will be necessary. Thanks again.

[myfirstyota]

I'm shaking my head......up and down!!!!! Hell yea man!!!!!

I'll be watching this close too!!!

[06YarisRS]

Thanks man! I'm excited about it.
I think you had expressed an interest in the kit too, hadn't you? Haha, maybe we could have gotten a better deal buying two kits. I did manage to get a small discount. Still, a lot of quid. Glad you're coming long for the show. And like I said about my 2ZR swap, if nothing else, it might be amusing. :laugh:

[myfirstyota]

Yea but life kinda got in the way. Not to say it won't happen... one day.

I knew it wasn't gonna be cheap. Probably about double what the base kit costs with a couple options, and exchange/duty/shipping. It should be a blast though :)

[WeeYari]

Ah, winter in NB. The high price of cabin fever ;)

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

Yea but life kinda got in the way. Not to say it won't happen... one day.

I knew it wasn't gonna be cheap. Probably about double what the base kit costs with a couple options, and exchange/duty/shipping. It should be a blast though :)

Yeah, it was probably not a wise decision from a financial point of view and by the time it's all said and done, it will be a fair bit more. I just went for the basic kit with no upgrades. The only other costs associated with the kit is 15% sales tax when crossing the border back into Canada, but we were planning a trip to Maine anyway and after 48 hours we can each (4 of us) claim $800.00. Technically the kit can be divided into separate invoices as it's a bunch of parts. We shall see. If all goes well, I should be looking at $200.00 - $300.00 for exhaust and about $300.00 for tune. There will of course be other cost along the way. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? I sure hope so!

[06YarisRS]

Ah, winter in NB. The high price of cabin fever ;)

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

Haha, for sure. Who ever said living in The Maritimes is cheap?

[myfirstyota]

Haha, for sure. Who ever said living in The Maritimes is cheap?

Sanity has no price

[06YarisRS]

Sanity has no price

For sure, but insanity certainly does. :laugh:

[06YarisRS]

I used the engine control diagrams I got from TIS for the 2008 Scion xD. Also attached is a pic of the 2ZR Engine Control I found online and a link to the F/IC wiring diagram. Please chime in if you see anything amiss or have suggestions. I will add the diagrams for the power supply and ground for the F/IC later.

Interestingly, the tuner with whom I was speaking said that it would be unnecessary for the F/IC to control camshaft timing and that the stock ECU would control that. He seems very knowledgeable, but this just seemed odd to me. I suppose though if it is true and the F/IC is not controlling timing, that the crank would not need to be connected either.

AEM F/IC Manual:

https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/0/017/017-30-1913.pdf

https://i.imgur.com/q3VeMxl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xKMLr0Q.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Y0sVhr3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mSb7tAC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qE9QcQr.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8Zhelhq.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Very cool.

Unfortunately I have no experience turbocharging Toyota’s, so I’ll be learning as well.

1)Bolt on the kit
2)install some gauges to monitor stuff
3)have a tuner advise on the rest....

[CrankyOldMan]

I'm all about this! As far as being hesitant, just remember--someone had to be the first human to eat a durian and they lived to tell about it.

The alternative to this would be to buy a full Elise supercharger setup, which is easily twice the cost when it's all said and done. I wish I had some real advise to give, but this is also out of my area of experience. Definitely staying tuned!

[06YarisRS]

Thanks Tom and Sam! Just knowing you guys are around gives me a bit of confidence. Hopefully you won't mind if I bounce some theoretical questions off of you or ask your opinions as I go along since both of you unquestionably have more experience with mechanical stuff than I do for certain. It's definitely been a learning experience for me and I haven't even turned a wrench on this project yet.

It does indeed seem like a lot of the guys that were into forced induction have long since moved on. I did read many, many posts on here and there did seem to be a lot of successes.

[ern-diz]

Lofty goal, love it! I must be drinking from the same well you are because I've been thinking a lot about going full retard with a 2ZZ swap in mine. Needless to say, I'm subscribed to this thread!

[06YarisRS]

Lofty goal, love it! I must be drinking from the same well you are because I've been thinking a lot about going full retard with a 2ZZ swap in mine. Needless to say, I'm subscribed to this thread!

Glad you're coming along for the ride. I will likely need all the moral support I can muster. The 2ZZ swap would be awesome.

As an update to the thread, I got the AEM calibration file and the basemap for my kit yesterday. It's quite interesting to look at although I still need to do a lot of reading to fully understand the numbers.

[NYC-SE]

I've been thinking a lot about going full retard with a 2ZZ swap in mine.

Then you're going to have to do a license plate swap as well. Think of all that added work!:biggrin:

[atomic_hoji]

:eek: Awesome! :thumbsup:

Definitely following this thread. Like many, also haven't done a turbo upgrade before, but also looking forward to learning along with you - and of course happy to help where I can! :biggrin:

When you say researching turbocharging have you been reading mostly online or have you picked up some good books? Just wondering as I have a selection of books on tuning and forced induction bookmarked for future interest - just curious what you've found as good resources.

When I was lining up the 2ZR swap for my car I had come across this kit and took a few, rough measurements and had also done some reading about the fitment with the Corolla and use of supercharging on the Lotus'. So, for the sake of discussion / second opinion:

My thought on boost is that the specs for the Lotus Cup 250 show it running 11 psi on the stock 2ZR internals. From the Toyota Nation discussions on Corollas that have installed the Turbokits kit it sounds like you're pretty safe if you stay < 8 psi and have a good tune. Starting with a conservative 6 psi or so seems like a good strategy.

I agree that you should (fingers crossed?!) be able to fit everything in behind - there is actually a reasonable amount of room back there! I had intended to move the ECM away from the factory location using the Corolla iM engine harness, but I think the stock Yaris' ECM is up high enough you'd be OK - worst case you might find that you need to run a turbo blanket or heat shield of some sort. Running the air intake and other piping on the Yaris vs. the Corolla will be a bit of a trial and error to see how much modification it will require to fit. Very interested to see how you make out with fitting everything in terms of firewall clearance and intake piping especially.

Regarding engine management - I don't have first-hand experience, but everything I've read (as I'm sure you have) is that to speak to a tuner that is familiar with the unit you're using; seems like you're headed in the right direction! While the standalone route is great, it becomes expensive fairly quickly if you want to control 2x variable camshafts and retain drive-by-wire. You also lose your daily creature comforts / controls that are available in stock ECM - although with a feature-filled standalone you can also add some cool stuff! The suspicion I have with the piggyback reputation for needing a reset is that the tune isn't resulting in predictable feedback to the stock ECM - i.e. the stock ECM works on the principle that it sees X air, demands Y fuel, and expects Z AFR. If your tune interrupts X air, Y fuel, and calculates new outputs - scales the MAF signal to expected range and demands fuel for the real (boosted) MAF signal - such that Z AFR ends up as what the stock ECM is expecting, then the stock ECM will be none-the-wiser. The problems arise when the stock ECM starts making STFT/LTFT adjustments which compound because of the piggyback correction and then settings start to drift. That's my take on it at least - I could be very wrong of course.. lol

You might find you're OK for fuelling on the stock system with running fairly low boost. That might be something to research and have in the back pocket, but see how the tuning works out? If your tuner finds you're leaning out badly because you're fuel limited then do the upgrade, but until then save the cash and see how the stock system works? If all you're changing is the fuel pump and not the lines in the system, fuel rail, etc.. it's easy enough to swap the pump out later. Have you had a look to see what the Lotus Elise with the 1ZR/2ZR is running for fuel flow? Might give you a comparison point.. A glance back at bookmarked threads on Toyota Nation, it seems they've been OK with the stock Corolla fuel system.

No idea about those mushy, smooshy autotragic transmissions.. :tongue: But seems like from what you've said that the little U-series holds up pretty well. There are things you can do in terms of valve body upgrades to get a slushbox to handle more torque too if you find you're having transmission issues; never looked for the U340E, so not sure how common or expensive that path becomes..

Oi - that turned out to be long-winded... Never-the-less, looking forward to your updates as you make headway! :thumbup:

-- Adam

[Maritime]

Sign me up. This is great. I also will want to see this in person when it's finished, I'll come meet you at Tim's or McD's in the Bajaris when I finish it LOL.

[myfirstyota]

I'd totally be down for a half way Quebec city meet hahaha

[ern-diz]

Then you're going to have to do a license plate swap as well. Think of all that added work!:biggrin:

Whether I go 2ZR or 2ZZ, I think I'd keep the 1NZ plate. I like the sleeper aspect of it lol!

Sorry for straying off topic. Very much looking forward to the 2ZR turbo progress...

[Leegamer]

This is gonna be sick af.

[atomic_hoji]

...
Interestingly, the tuner with whom I was speaking said that it would be unnecessary for the F/IC to control camshaft timing and that the stock ECU would control that. He seems very knowledgeable, but this just seemed odd to me. I suppose though if it is true and the F/IC is not controlling timing, that the crank would not need to be connected either.
...


Sorry, hadn't replied regarding the wiring diagrams you posted.

From a quick read through the FIC install manual, at a glance it looks like you're spot on with the wiring techniques for those sensors. Does the Turbokits installation instructions give a recommendation on where to splice into the wiring harness? And/Or come with a "flying lead" harness to work with?

With respect to the camshaft and crankshaft inputs - my guess is the tuner means that since you are going to be running a fairly mild tune, you can avoid using the FIC to adjust timing and just leave the adjustment to the stock ECM. Might be that more aggressive tunes that adjust timing are also more likely to freak out the stock ECM, leading to the need to reset? (guessing..) I would hazard a guess that you will still need the crankshaft input as that will be how the FIC will get the rpm - fuel map references rpm if I recall.. The tuner should be able to tell you if you need to wire it in or not for sure though.

Good luck! And of course keep us posted. :thumbsup:
-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Hi gents.

Our family has been struck with a particularly virulent flu bug. :barf: Started with my daughter and then the rest of us fell like dominos. Thank you all for your responses and especially Adam for his thorough, detailed and helpful assessment. I will promptly respond to these as soon as we are better.

[ern-diz]

Hi gents.

Our family has been struck with a particularly virulent flu bug. :barf: Started with my daughter and then the rest of us fell like dominos. Thank you all for your responses and especially Adam for his thorough, detailed and helpful assessment. I will promptly respond to these as soon as we are better.

You're under no obligation, friend. Hope you all get well soon!

[myfirstyota]

You're under no obligation, friend. Hope you all get well soon!

+1

[06YarisRS]

Thanks gents! Well, as nasty as that was, it was short-lived. Still not 100 % but definitely a lot better.

[Maritime]

Gotta love when the kids bring those bugs home for school or daycare. Glad you're on the mend.

[06YarisRS]

:eek: Awesome! :thumbsup:

Definitely following this thread. Like many, also haven't done a turbo upgrade before, but also looking forward to learning along with you - and of course happy to help where I can! :biggrin:

When you say researching turbocharging have you been reading mostly online or have you picked up some good books? Just wondering as I have a selection of books on tuning and forced induction bookmarked for future interest - just curious what you've found as good resources.

When I was lining up the 2ZR swap for my car I had come across this kit and took a few, rough measurements and had also done some reading about the fitment with the Corolla and use of supercharging on the Lotus'. So, for the sake of discussion / second opinion:

My thought on boost is that the specs for the Lotus Cup 250 show it running 11 psi on the stock 2ZR internals. From the Toyota Nation discussions on Corollas that have installed the Turbokits kit it sounds like you're pretty safe if you stay < 8 psi and have a good tune. Starting with a conservative 6 psi or so seems like a good strategy.

I agree that you should (fingers crossed?!) be able to fit everything in behind - there is actually a reasonable amount of room back there! I had intended to move the ECM away from the factory location using the Corolla iM engine harness, but I think the stock Yaris' ECM is up high enough you'd be OK - worst case you might find that you need to run a turbo blanket or heat shield of some sort. Running the air intake and other piping on the Yaris vs. the Corolla will be a bit of a trial and error to see how much modification it will require to fit. Very interested to see how you make out with fitting everything in terms of firewall clearance and intake piping especially.

Regarding engine management - I don't have first-hand experience, but everything I've read (as I'm sure you have) is that to speak to a tuner that is familiar with the unit you're using; seems like you're headed in the right direction! While the standalone route is great, it becomes expensive fairly quickly if you want to control 2x variable camshafts and retain drive-by-wire. You also lose your daily creature comforts / controls that are available in stock ECM - although with a feature-filled standalone you can also add some cool stuff! The suspicion I have with the piggyback reputation for needing a reset is that the tune isn't resulting in predictable feedback to the stock ECM - i.e. the stock ECM works on the principle that it sees X air, demands Y fuel, and expects Z AFR. If your tune interrupts X air, Y fuel, and calculates new outputs - scales the MAF signal to expected range and demands fuel for the real (boosted) MAF signal - such that Z AFR ends up as what the stock ECM is expecting, then the stock ECM will be none-the-wiser. The problems arise when the stock ECM starts making STFT/LTFT adjustments which compound because of the piggyback correction and then settings start to drift. That's my take on it at least - I could be very wrong of course.. lol

You might find you're OK for fuelling on the stock system with running fairly low boost. That might be something to research and have in the back pocket, but see how the tuning works out? If your tuner finds you're leaning out badly because you're fuel limited then do the upgrade, but until then save the cash and see how the stock system works? If all you're changing is the fuel pump and not the lines in the system, fuel rail, etc.. it's easy enough to swap the pump out later. Have you had a look to see what the Lotus Elise with the 1ZR/2ZR is running for fuel flow? Might give you a comparison point.. A glance back at bookmarked threads on Toyota Nation, it seems they've been OK with the stock Corolla fuel system.

No idea about those mushy, smooshy autotragic transmissions.. :tongue: But seems like from what you've said that the little U-series holds up pretty well. There are things you can do in terms of valve body upgrades to get a slushbox to handle more torque too if you find you're having transmission issues; never looked for the U340E, so not sure how common or expensive that path becomes..

Oi - that turned out to be long-winded... Never-the-less, looking forward to your updates as you make headway! :thumbup:

-- Adam

Hey Adam!

Thanks very much for the input.

Among other sources such as articles and forums, I've been working my way through Corky Bell's, Maximum Boost.
Still trying to get my head around such things as tensile and compressive forces in an engine - steep learning curve. If I'm interpreting it correctly, the potential destructive forces on engine mechanicals under boost are less than what I had assumed. Also, the focus on heat management in all aspects of the turbo system is strongly promoted as the leading way to ensure long-term durability. I think your suggestion about going for 6 psi is a very good one. I could always up it a smidgen if everything was in order and performing well.

Regarding fitment of turbo and piping, I guess I'll find out when I start. One of my colleagues has a '12 Corolla, so I intend to go out and do a quick comparison between it and the Yaris in terms of firewall to head clearance. It looks like the turbo sits low enough to get into that exhaust tunnel area, so I'm hopeful. Not sure what's directly behind that in the event that I have to get a big hammer out and make room. :eek: Yes, I've also been looking at turbo blankets for the turbine. I think that would be very beneficial.

I did speak with Jesse at turbokits.com regarding the capablity of my fuel pump. He had very positive things to say about the durability, capability and longevity of the pumps Toyota uses. He believes that I would not need to do an upgrade on the pump at the boost level I seek, but, again, recommended that my tuner advise me in that area.

Regarding the transmission, I purchased an ASE Mobilis research paper on the U340E and it rates the max torque of the trans at around 140 ft/lbs

A quote from Corky Bell:

"Will the transmission and drivetrain be adversely affected?

Very Unlikely. Consider that the drivetrain endures more torque in first gear from the stock engine than almost any turbo can produce in second gear..."

Maybe I'm tailoring the info to placate myself, but the above, coupled with claims by Monkey Wrench Racing that the U340E is good up to 250+ in turboed 1ZZ Celicas leads me to believe that I at least have a chance of good results. I did speak to a nice fella at importperformancetrans as they produce a high capacity U340E/U341E transmission. He, of course, definitely recommended a performance transmission for my turbo application, but he's in the business. When queried about what he would do to the trans, he mentioned a performance valvebody (I know these exist, as MWR sells them), different clutch material and metallurgical treatments (I think Tom discussed these when building one of his transmissions). I won't be trashing on the transmission, but I guess only time will tell how it holds up. I just have to stop worring about it and move on.

Jesse recommended that I do hook up the cams to the F/IC. He says that it would probably be possible to let the stock ECU handle the cams but the functionality is there and should be used. Timing is going to need to be pulled as boost increases, I believe. As far as where to tap/intercept the harness, it can be done close to the ECU connector. I figured I'd go 8 - 10" inches from the connector and that would put me closer to my glovebox, behind which I'll probably mount the F/IC.

BTW, I got my Fedex Tracking numbers today as well as a call from turbokits.com. Getting excited here!

[06YarisRS]

Sign me up. This is great. I also will want to see this in person when it's finished, I'll come meet you at Tim's or McD's in the Bajaris when I finish it LOL.

Absolutely! It's a must do!

[06YarisRS]

I'd totally be down for a half way Quebec city meet hahaha

Hell ya. I really want to come up to the GTA for a meet - such as what you guys have been taking about - but something about a turboed Yaris, a wife, 2 kids and luggage seems impractical. We will be in Toronto in July, but unfortunately, it wouldn't be the Yaris getting us there. It would be the van - yawn!

[myfirstyota]

Hell ya. I really want to come up to the GTA for a meet - such as what you guys have been taking about - but something about a turboed Yaris, a wife, 2 kids and luggage seems impractical. We will be in Toronto in July, but unfortunately, it wouldn't be the Yaris getting us there. It would be the van - yawn!

Tow bar! Lol

[06YarisRS]

Tow bar! Lol

Ah, interesting idea!

[atomic_hoji]

Eeeeww - glad to hear it was short lived! Blech, stomach viruses are terrible.. :thumbdown:

Interested to hear what you think of the book overall when you get through it - I've heard very polarized reviews of it.

Sounds like Turbokits customer service is good - always a bonus to deal with a company that backs-up the product after the sale. Glad to hear the stock fuel system appears to be up to the task. re: FIC install - I guess in the worst case you hook-up the cam sensors and leave control to the stock ECM, as long as it doesn't cause signal noise or problems for the stock ECM then it was just an extra wiring step.

I'm not sure I'm on-board with the automatic rationale - not because I don't think the U340E can do it more the author's reasoning is a bit mis-placed I think - if the engine makes more torque (it better if it's got boost, lol) than stock, it does so in all gears. Comparing a turbo pull in second to a stock pull in first isn't really relevant - you're still going to use first gear with the turbo! lol Especially true in an automatic because you can't start in second gear. Maybe there's more context to the statement... :biggrin: I'm sure IPT would love to sell you a very expensive transmission, lol. The tech. specs from the ASE paper are probably pretty reliable, but more than likely conservatively biased toward daily driving and long-term reliability vs performance from an OEM point of view. The MWR experience is more real-world and good, but like anything, I'll bet your driving style will be the biggest factor. My gut feeling is start with a transmission cooler (since automatics don't live long with heat) and see how that goes. If you're finding issues then consider a shift kit or valve body upgrade.

Tracking is exciting! :thumbup:

Definitely keep us posted if you are going to make it out this way this summer.

Looking forward to unboxing, progress, and booooooost! :biggrin:
-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Eeeeww - glad to hear it was short lived! Blech, stomach viruses are terrible.. :thumbdown:

Interested to hear what you think of the book overall when you get through it - I've heard very polarized reviews of it.

Sounds like Turbokits customer service is good - always a bonus to deal with a company that backs-up the product after the sale. Glad to hear the stock fuel system appears to be up to the task. re: FIC install - I guess in the worst case you hook-up the cam sensors and leave control to the stock ECM, as long as it doesn't cause signal noise or problems for the stock ECM then it was just an extra wiring step.

I'm not sure I'm on-board with the automatic rationale - not because I don't think the U340E can do it more the author's reasoning is a bit mis-placed I think - if the engine makes more torque (it better if it's got boost, lol) than stock, it does so in all gears. Comparing a turbo pull in second to a stock pull in first isn't really relevant - you're still going to use first gear with the turbo! lol Especially true in an automatic because you can't start in second gear. Maybe there's more context to the statement... :biggrin: I'm sure IPT would love to sell you a very expensive transmission, lol. The tech. specs from the ASE paper are probably pretty reliable, but more than likely conservatively biased toward daily driving and long-term reliability vs performance from an OEM point of view. The MWR experience is more real-world and good, but like anything, I'll bet your driving style will be the biggest factor. My gut feeling is start with a transmission cooler (since automatics don't live long with heat) and see how that goes. If you're finding issues then consider a shift kit or valve body upgrade.

Tracking is exciting! :thumbup:

Definitely keep us posted if you are going to make it out this way this summer.

Looking forward to unboxing, progress, and booooooost! :biggrin:
-- Adam

Thanks Adam!

Turbokits does seem like a really good outfit. Jesse (the lead tech) seems like a very straight-talker, no nonsense and solution-focused kind of guy. I'd rather 'realistic' than 'accommodating'. He seems very optimistic about my project, though this one, I think, is a little different than anything that they have been involved in in the past. Suffice to say, I feel like I'm in good hands.

I like the Corky Bell book so far, but I'm really not that far into it. It seems to cover many fundamentals, so represents a good starting point for me, I suppose. If you have any recommendations for digitally available books/sources, as a general introduction to tubrocharger systems, I love to hear about them.

Yes, the Corky Bell statement about 1st and second gear - N/A vs Turbo doesn't really seem to hold much water. Of course, you are correct about boost being present in 1st gear as well as all gears. If anything, it tells me that if I want to preserve my transmission, maybe I ought not command full boost in 1st gear, lol! But, I suppose, that's common sense. I guess, in a large sense, I'm trying to convince myself - with or without valid data - haha, that I will be safe. Undeniably un-scientific, I know.

I thought about a transmission cooler, but without confirming that a cooler would not contribute to restricted flow, I'd have to do a bit more research first. I've read conflicting information about placement of a cooler (I just happen to have a tube and fin cooler in my garage, less effective than a plate and fin config) and whether it should be a) used without the stock in-rad cooler, 2) installed before the in-rad cooler or 3) on the return line. I know that cooling is very important, but my immediate concerns would be two: 1) slipping clutch packs under additional torque and 2) actually breaking hard parts, such as stripping a gear, or snapping an input or output shaft. On another note, you'd mentioned axles. Which, brings me to two questions for the YW community: 1) are axles likely to fail before transmission hard parts? And, 2) are the Scion xD axles a direct fit (lengths, spline count) with the auto? I'll dig back in the forums, but I think discussion around this topic was focused on the manual trans. EDIT: different input shaft spline count, xD 20 and Yaris 23.

Well, it seems that my packages are almost at their destination. Not sure if we'll get over this weekend to get them. But, I'd say that un-boxing isnt that far off.

I do have an immediate challenge to face right off the bat, sadly. It seems that the spring bolts that attach the midpipe to the stock exhaust manifold are stripped. When we worked at straightening out the exhaust in the school shop, we realized that the bolts would turn but not back out. I don't believe that they were over tightened on the install but maybe they were. Or, the wrong ones were installed. I left it for the time being as I had no exhaust leaks, but had planned to have the exhaust guys fix that when I went for the resonator - axleback pipe diameter upgrade. Not quite sure how I am going to approach this but it might look something like cutting my midpipe and then working the lot out from below. Whatever happens will have to happen in my garage as a trip to an exhaust shop isn't in the cards at the moment. The downpipe supplied with the kit, extends well beyond the stock converter anyway, and the converter/resonator section is going to have to be chopped up and rewelded anyway.

Last evening I spoke with the tech from BLP Automotive - my future tuner guys - about fueling. He also feels I should be fine at 6-7 psi, but that they have in-stock solutions, one of which is a voltage regulator module that bumps up the pump output by increasing voltage, plus a small selection of in-tank pumps. I would prefer, the latter, but he will advise at the time.

Once I receive the kit, I'll be sure to post up pics of some of the larger individual parts as well as a segment on my experience with clocking the turbo. Apparently, some arrive needing to be clocked.

[06YarisRS]

I plan to order an exhaust manifold gasket. Logic tells me that metal beats composite, but would take suggestions for my project. I assume that the OEM is metal.

[06YarisRS]

Due to hockey practice and gymnastics, I will have to experience delayed gratification, unfortunately.

I did get a sneek peek as I have to open the boxes before crossing back into Canada. CBSA agents frown upon un-opened boxes.

Pics tonight for anyone interested.

https://i.imgur.com/9AUFZs9.jpg

[myfirstyota]

And who T.F. isn't interested!?!?!?!?!?!? Hahaha

[tmontague]

And who T.F. isn't interested!?!?!?!?!?!? Hahaha

:laughabove: no kidding, I feel like its Christmas all over again

[06YarisRS]

Gotta say, Turbikits.com produce what seems like very high quality stuff. They also take great care in packaging. I did not opt for the cold air intake, but have asked the guys if there would be a performance difference and if the 'warmer' intake air from behind the engine would cause problems - with the filter attached directly to the compressor. I expect they'll say that the intercooler is more than enough to handle the warmer air. It is one BIG intercooler - hopefully I can make it fit! Also, the "cold air intake" places the filter basically beside the block (or at least would be in the more confined Yaris engine bay) so I don't think the intake air from behind the engine would be that much hotter anyway. We shall see what they say. After reading several threads about placing the filter directly on the compressor intake, I discovered there is much debate; lots of stated pros and cons for either approach.

T28, BTW, does have to have the compressor clocked 180 degrees counter-clockwise from its current position.

https://i.imgur.com/dWTb6NM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xB4pbhN.jpg

One of my Favs...downpipe. There is another sensor bung for the AFR sensor on the opposite side right up by the flange. If I am indeed going to go without the front Cat, I'm going to have to figure out how to eliminate the CEL that will show up. I think the F/IC has a strategy for dealing with it.

https://i.imgur.com/jPutb4K.jpg

Definitely my fav part...manifold:

https://i.imgur.com/CoXeWlC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jpKvmve.jpg

F/IC

https://i.imgur.com/uHxlvMW.jpg

Injectors

https://i.imgur.com/fLkJGhZ.jpg

BOV

https://i.imgur.com/xw4H6X1.jpg


Piping (Good heavy gauge and exceptional welding). I can show a close up of the welding quality if anyone would like to see it.

https://i.imgur.com/Sh8GiT5.jpg

Intercooler

https://i.imgur.com/wv90agl.jpg

1 bag of misc hardware

https://i.imgur.com/6syT82d.jpg

[Leegamer]

Looks like good quality stuff.

[WeeYari]

Missing from pics - 1 intercooler

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[ern-diz]

https://i.imgur.com/pqECFcN.gif

[Leegamer]

https://i.imgur.com/pqECFcN.gif

bing bong bing bong bing

[ern-diz]

I am very excite :biggrin:

[06YarisRS]

Missing from pics - 1 intercooler

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

Ah, so it is... Will rectify immediately!

[06YarisRS]

bing bong bing bong bing

AWESOME! Haha

[06YarisRS]

I am very excite :biggrin:

Me too! Approaching project with mild trepidation, however. Hoping to go out this weekend and attempt to get that dang exhaust off.

[WeeYari]

It is one BIG intercooler
It certainly is!
It looks bigger than specs on the site. Must be skinny plank flooring that it is resting on.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

It certainly is!
It looks bigger than specs on the site. Must be skinny plank flooring that it is resting on.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

It is quite big, but should fit. I'm actually happy it's large with good cooling capacity since I'll be drawing intake air from behind the engine. I'll get my tape out tomorrow and get the dimensions of the intercooler.

[06YarisRS]

Well, as cold as it is, I went out tonight for about a half hour to start my attack plan. I soaked all the manifold stud/nuts and exhaust shield components with Releasall. Removing the exhaust shield and manifold support and manifold may have to happen from both the top and the bottom, of course with the hood and wiper cowling removed. Fortunately most of the fasteners aren't rusted badly at all. Some of them are actually rust-free.

I also managed to get the stuck spring bolts at the manifold loosened and backed off. My next trip to the garage and the exhaust piping will be removed and hopefully the manifold.

These nuts should come off fairly easily, but I'll wiggle the nuts back and forth to slowly cut through the rust on the studs.

https://i.imgur.com/fjAXPom.jpg

That donut looks a bit small to me! I'm amazed there wasn't an exhaust leak. It fit into the midpipe well, so I'm wondering if the Corolla and xD have slightly different manifold flanges. :iono:

https://i.imgur.com/Qigd8To.jpg

[tmontague]

It is quite big, but should fit. I'm actually happy it's large with good cooling capacity since I'll be drawing intake air from behind the engine. I'll get my tape out tomorrow and get the dimensions of the intercooler.

Behind the engine? What intercooler set.up are you doing?

[06YarisRS]

Behind the engine? What intercooler set.up are you doing?

I wasn't very clear. When I said "intake air", I meant for the turbo compressor. It's front mount intercooler but the turbo compressor air intake will just be the K&N filter attached directly to the turbo, no cold air intake. I spoke with the guys at TK and the cold air intake - that comes back up from behind the engine and wraps around, placing the filter basically between the engine and battery - is an option. They claim there are many cars with the kit that don't have the cold air intake. The large intercooler looks after any additional heat in the charge piping that might picked up behind the engine. Ultimately, I may come up with my own custom cold air intake. Although theirs is $195.00, it still lands the filter smack dab in the engine bay and up top where the hot air is. If it went somewhere where it could draw colder air, I probably would have bought it. I suppose I could have bought it, another bit of pipe and a coupler and directed it closer to the headlight where the stock airbox is. May do that yet.

[Maritime]

Good start, taking the manifold off to do anything there is always the risk of a broken stud, and as they say, any half hour project is 1 broken bolt away from a 3 day ordeal. may that not happen here.

[tmontague]

Hmm, hood scoop in the near future?:wink:

[Maritime]

+1, a functional scoop may be perfect.

[06YarisRS]

Hmm, hood scoop in the near future?:wink:

Would be uber cool. When I was musing about a custom setup, I thought briefly about a TMIC and hood scoop. I actually saw a carbon fiber hood with molded hood scoop that looked awesome.

You know, since I have a 'paint booth', I suppose if I could find a scoop that suited the car, it wouldn't be that big a job to cut, mount, fill, prime and paint my own custom hood scoop. Then again, it would take away from the 'sleeper' factor. Haha.

[Maritime]

Ha, yes, the scoop would announce loudly there are mods to the car. Although most folks would probably laugh, until you blow past at ludicrous speed and hear the woosh of the turbo LOL

[06YarisRS]

Ha, yes, the scoop would announce loudly there are mods to the car. Although most folks would probably laugh, until you blow past at ludicrous speed and hear the woosh of the turbo LOL

LOL...practically anyone I tell that I am turboing my Yaris already laughs. All the more reason for going the sleeper route.

[WeeYari]

Sleeper FTW!

Just don't become one of those fools who spool up for the sole purpose of advertising their blow-off.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[Maritime]

Sleeper FTW!

Just don't become one of those fools who spool up for the sole purpose of advertising their blow-off.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

Yep, and they are always in a friggin neon or destroyed WRX LOL

[06YarisRS]

Sleeper FTW!

Just don't become one of those fools who spool up for the sole purpose of advertising their blow-off.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

Little worry about that. LOL. Not really my style. An increase in performance is purely for my benefit, no one else's. Well, maybe my son. I'm sure he wouldn't mind the sensation of being pushed back in his seat a wee bit. Ssshhhh... Don't tell mom. :biggrin:

In all honesty, I have no interest in racing anyone. Or, showing off for anyone. I will appreciate a noticeable gain in power whilst marveling at the exquisite engineering of my little turboed car. Secondly, it will be treated with respect, because not doing so would get very expensive, very quickly.

What I might enjoy doing, when the likely occasion presents itself, is pulling away from a redneck or two that like to roll close behind you in their BIG TRUCKS. The expression on their face(s) might be gratifying.

One another note...my latest stressor - to get hung up on - is how my axles will handle the extra torque/power. I think Adam may have mentioned that in a previous post.

[tmontague]

Your axles will likely be fine in rolling accelerations. Stay away from dropping the clutch from a stop ( you have an a/t so you can't really do that anyway lol)

With my current set up I never go wot and up to redline in first gear. Partly to protect the drive trading but mainly because with a reduced final drive there is too much torque and it spins track slicks even when they are hot

[myfirstyota]

My buddies golf makes 470whp with stock axles. Apparently as the story goes, don't mount slicks and you shouldn't break axles. Tire should spin before axle breaks.

[06YarisRS]

Thanks both of you. That's reassuring about the axles. I doubt that boost in first would make much sense anyway, because with the 2ZR naturally aspirated, it wants to break loose anyway.

[Maritime]

Yep I think you'll have more worry about spinning tires and loosing grip long before you break an axle.

[06YarisRS]

Got the midpipe and axleback off.

Tomorrow - time permitting - the wiper cowl and hood will be removed. I am concerned about how to get the OEM manifold out once it's removed from the head. I'm guessing it's going to have to come out the top, or the axle is going to have to be removed. Also, the 2ZR exhaust sits a little to the right of the body channel. Fingers crossed that the 3" downpipe will line up with the channel. I may be in for some modification of the down pipe, but time will tell. Also, the manifold brace and heat shields are going to be no picnic either.

Not much done today, but I only had a half hour or so.

Hoping to clock the turbo tonight if I can get time. If so, I'll post up pics.

https://i.imgur.com/CXSXkw8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tHfzwfL.jpg

[myfirstyota]

Anxious to see your downpipe conclusion!

[06YarisRS]

Anxious to see your downpipe conclusion!

Haha, me too!

[06YarisRS]

Sorry about the pic quality, and the mess in the background. My kids got off to bed without doing their cleanup. Daddy was preoccupied. :rolleyes:

https://i.imgur.com/Ehblwh2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aXslA1N.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hdl8m7Z.jpg

[Maritime]

Nice

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

[Leegamer]

https://memegenerator.net/img/instances/14813023.jpg

[ern-diz]

:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

[06YarisRS]

Remembuh when I told you I wouldn't turbo my ka?...I lied. :flame: (Arnie)

[ern-diz]

Remembuh when I told you I wouldn't turbo my ka?...I lied. :flame: (Arnie)

:bellyroll:

[Leegamer]

Remembuh when I told you I wouldn't turbo my ka?...I lied. :flame: (Arnie)

Ha!

[06YarisRS]

Hood and wiper cowl removed. Much better access into the back of the engine bay. I got the two top bolts off the upper exhaust shield very easily. The bottom bolts are much more reluctant as they are in fairly large captive nuts. I've soaked them in ReleasAll and will go at them again tomorrow. Getting these shields off and the manifold out, may be one of the tougher parts of this project. I'm still thinking the turbo (without manifold) may not fit in without either dropping the subframe or removing the axle and going infront of the subframe. Hopefully I'll know this weekend.

https://i.imgur.com/0SbMvRs.jpg

On a positive note, I pushed the tunnel heat shield up and I have more space to work with. I may ultimately remove it. I will do measurements of the Yaris tunnel tomorrow. Today, I drove a colleague's 2012 Corolla onto our hoist at the school and took some pics.

Yaris Tunnel:

https://i.imgur.com/Z7VPGqh.jpg

Corolla Tunnel - Next 3 images. Measures about 7.5" of clearance from the top of the tunnel to subframe. And close to 8" side to side/

https://i.imgur.com/h4ZUMLl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6Jau2wW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5b4Z2NF.jpg


Attached the fittings (oil supply, oil return, water supply, water return) to the turbo this evening. Just need a couple clamps on the water lines. Fingers crossed that there are no leaks after install.

https://i.imgur.com/B6AO4nu.jpg

[myfirstyota]

When I was putting together my air system for the air horns in both my old truck and yaris I used loctite brand thread sealant. 545 I believe it is. When you read the specs on this stuff you soon realize they probably use this stuff on the space shuttle. I highly recommend. Never had any issues with leaking air at 120psi.

[06YarisRS]

When I was putting together my air system for the air horns in both my old truck and yaris I used loctite brand thread sealant. 545 I believe it is. When you read the specs on this stuff you soon realize they probably use this stuff on the space shuttle. I highly recommend. Never had any issues with leaking air at 120psi.

Ah, thanks! I used teflon tape, but will probably remove my oil supply line and oil drain line and use the thread sealant. The water lines are banjo style and use both copper washers and metal/rubber combination seals, so no need for a thread sealant there, though it probably wouldn't hurt. Heading to town this afternoon to get a few clamps, so I'll pick up the thread sealant then. They don't have the loctite brand, only Permatex, but I expect it's basically the same stuff.

[myfirstyota]

Trust me. It's not. Splurge and get a big bottle. You'll probably never need another. Warning. It is a bit pricey. The loctite brand is premium stuff. That's why home depot and Canadian tire don't Cary it.

We use their thread locker on our drilling rigs at work. Never lets us down.

Main reason I say this is because of the heat that the fitting will see. Permatex is great for every day application, but a turbo 2zr swapped yaris is not an every day car!

[06YarisRS]

Trust me. It's not. Splurge and get a big bottle. You'll probably never need another. Warning. It is a bit pricey. The loctite brand is premium stuff. That's why home depot and Canadian tire don't Cary it.

We use their thread locker on our drilling rigs at work. Never lets us down.

Main reason I say this is because of the heat that the fitting will see. Permatex is great for every day application, but a turbo 2zr swapped yaris is not an every day car!

I will take your advice and pick up the Loctite brand due to your ringing endorsement. :thumbsup:

[06YarisRS]

Oil drain fitting installation. A hole needs to be drilled in the block, but it's right inline with the front crossmember precluding the use of a standard drill. I picked up this little DeWalt 90 degree impact adapter for around $24.00. I just noticed this evening that Canadian Tire has a 3-piece 1/4" shank step drill bit kit on sale for $13.99, down from $39.99 (the same ones, likely, as the $9.00 kits available on eBay). Gee, thanks Canadian Tire. :wink:

Here is where the hole needs to be drilled, and below that, my little DeWalk adapter.

https://i.imgur.com/xrdwRfG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zVOwEzN.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Upper Manifold Shield Off

Finally! This was a bear. The bolts that protruded through the captive nuts were very rusty and took a lot of soaking, wire brushing of the exposed threads below and considerable force to remove. I was sure I was going to break my 12mm ratchet wrench (A+ for Mastercraft Maximum). Each turn was a sharp snap. I worked them back and forth and finally they came out. Very tight space to work in too.

https://i.imgur.com/o2tV8DL.jpg

Manifold should come off tomorrow. After of course, I have to get the lower heat shield and manifold support bracket off. I have to remove the lower heat shield to get at the support bolts.

https://i.imgur.com/TiwTze9.jpg

Here is the space I have to work with. I have about a 7" x 7" window. The turbo is close to 8" at the widest spot (the compressor outet), but I'm optimistic that I can tilt it over the steering rack and get it in there. The wastegate actuator and bracket will definitely have to come off and get reinstalled after the turbo is mounted. I'm less worried about the manifold, but it will have to go in first and by itself. I removed the long tunnel heat shield that runs back past the resonator. I'll replace this before I install the downpipe.

https://i.imgur.com/wWR2WEi.jpg

[tmontague]

Your stock manifold looks a lot different than mine. I noticed mine looks like a typical aftermarket welded and bent tube design whereas yours appeals to looks like a cast design. I would have assumed they would he the exact same.

Btw great job so far and I appreciate you taking pics of everything

[06YarisRS]

Your stock manifold looks a lot different than mine. I noticed mine looks like a typical aftermarket welded and bent tube design whereas yours appeals to looks like a cast design. I would have assumed they would he the exact same.

Btw great job so far and I appreciate you taking pics of everything

Thanks, Trevor. Pretty sure mine is welded tubing, though it does look cast in the pics.

I was hefting the turbo tonight and it's quite a heavy beast. The manifold, as you know has 2 studs/nuts up top and 3 below. I don't quite understand this as the reverse would be more structurally sound, IMO. I'm going to see how difficult it might be to adapt the existing manifold support bracket to work with the turbo. There are 6 bolts on the compressor housing and 4 on the turbine. If it works in a way that the turbo downpipe clears the stock support bracket, I may see if I can bolt a support arm from the stock bracket to the turbo using either the compressor or turbine bolts - which ever is more centered over the support. I know the turbokits guys knew what they were doing when they built the kit, but it just seems like a lot of mass hanging from that manifold. The manifold itself could probably hold a ton (not exaggerating) but I'm a concerned about the 5 fairly small studs/nuts that hold it on. If the Toyota engineers thought that the small lightweight manifold needed a support, then I'm thinking that this turbo is a heck of a lot heavier and could use some support. Maybe I'm overthinking this. :iono:

[myfirstyota]

..... I know the turbokits guys knew what they were doing when they built the kit, but it just seems like a lot of mass hanging from that manifold. The manifold itself could probably hold a ton (not exaggerating) but I'm a concerned about the 5 fairly small studs/nuts that hold it on. If the Toyota engineers thought that the small lightweight manifold needed a support, then I'm thinking that this turbo is a heck of a lot heavier and could use some support. Maybe I'm overthinking this. :iono:

I wouldn't say so..brace that puppy as best you can.

[06YarisRS]

The manifold is off with no broken studs. I think the wire brushing and days of soaking with the ReleasAll really helped. They were tight, but turned smoothly.

I was thrilled that the tunnel is big enough to pull the manifold through, so I'm optimistic that the turbo and turbo manifold will fit through, though separately.

The most involved part was removing all the heat shields. You have to take off one at a time to reveal the next set of bolts. Because of their proximity - obviously - to the heat of the manifold, the exposed threads past the captive nuts get really rusty and explode, making them very difficult to remove. Anyway, on to the pics...

Nasty Heat Shields/bracket Removed (these bolts themselves were in good shape, unlike many of the others):

https://i.imgur.com/p0y8Qxs.jpg

Manifold Nut Removal:

https://i.imgur.com/1Re7feI.jpg

Manifold Out:

https://i.imgur.com/sNTG7d7.jpg

Manifold Gasket (Ordering a new one tomorrow)

https://i.imgur.com/E76lUKV.jpg

Ready for Turbo Manifold ( I may see what's involved in procuring and replacing the firewall padding as mine's a bit ratty. Or, I'll just trim if off neatly):

https://i.imgur.com/4uFhQ5v.jpg

[06YarisRS]

The Good: The manifold and turbo fit separately through the tunnel.

https://i.imgur.com/d3BjoPe.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/yBtz7S5.jpg

The Bad: In its current state, there is not enough room for the turbo between the head and firewall.

The OK: However, I think I really only need to make about a 1" deep indentation in the firewall for adequate clearance - maybe a touch more to allow for engine rocking. I wonder what's directly behind this area in the car. So, I'll be bringing home, from the shop tomorrow a couple of brass rods and a big-arse hammer. I'll have to peel the carpet bak and make sure I won;t damage anything in that area.

Edit: On another very positive note, I took the downpipe out and it looks as though it is going to fit perfectly without any mods. Very happy about that!

I also have to clock the turbo a few more degrees so the compressor outlet lines up allowing the charge pipe to fit in the opening between the subframe and axle.

https://i.imgur.com/DC8LjcV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9OooGqb.jpg

[myfirstyota]

And the modification begins! Hahaha
This is the fun part!!

[myfirstyota]

Another thing you may want to consider is a poly filled dogbone trans mount. Keep the clearances in check by minimizing engine rock.

[tmontague]

^what he said.

It will limit the amount the engine moves so it needs less clearance at the fire wall. With only one mount in the sagittal plane there is little to hold the engine in place

[06YarisRS]

I've read about those poly mounts. This is something I would have to make on my own, is it not? I think you made some Trevor, didn't you? I doubt there is one available to purchase for my application. I'm definitely interested. Last thing I want is the turbo smashing into the firewall under acceleration - or anytime, obviously. Suggestions/additional info welcomed.

Just read about filling the mount with 3M window sealant. This doesn't sound like a long-term solution, though I did read a few success stories. I figured it would fall out but it connects and bonds together from both sides, so maybe it would last.

Also watched this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYzL-IXqiSY

[tmontague]

Correct, I made my own out of 94a poly (stiffest they had). I bought a pre measured kit from energy suspension and as long as you properly mix them it works great and is very durable.

The first time I did this I didn't dremel any of the stock rubber mount away and I improperly mixed the liquids so it was slightly brittle. It still.worked but cracked so it loosened up the mount a bit.

The second time I made sure to do it right. I deremel'd out as much of the factory rubber as i could while leaving enough in there to keep the middle metal sleeve in the correct place.

I mixed all the liquid at once (that is recommended) and let it sit 5 days before install. I can't easily check my doggone mount but the last time I was down there is looks great and I have never had that knocking sound come back since I installed them. The sound was due to tje trans hitting the subframe.

I recently inspected my trans mount since I can easily see it with no battery in the way and it had not cracked at all and still looks great.

There is nothing available in the aftermarket so we are kind of left to make one ourselves. I wrote up brief diy on it with pictures, if the pictures are not still in the thread just let me know

[Tima122]

Повените турбину на 180 градусов по горизонтали

[06YarisRS]

Повените турбину на 180 градусов по горизонтали

Благодарю вас. Это не будет работать, потому что выхлопная труба не будет в выравнивании. (Thank you. This will not work because the exhaust pipe will not be in alignment)

[06YarisRS]

People see to use the term "messaging" the firewall. I call it beating the crap out of it. I'm not finshed, but I've basically created about a 1.5" - 2" cup into which the turbo compressor housing can fit when the engine rocks backwards under acceleration. I used the blunt end of my breaker bar and a big hammer. I worked in a ever decreasing diameter. Right now the turbo should clear as I believe it should rotate downwards slightly. I base this on the positioning of the motor mounts. I plan to grind down the rough bits, skim it with bondo, quick sand, prime and color match paint it. I have about a pint of the OEM color left, so I'm good for supplies.

I also picked up a tube of Proform Urethane and will remove the dogbone mount and fill that up. If it does fail, I'll redo it as per Trevor's approach with actual catalyzed urethane.

I also permanently mounted the manifold. The OEM gasket was in good shape, but received a thin bead of Copper High Heat RTV on both sides, so hopefully no leaks. The RTV squeezed out ever so slightly, so the seal should be good. I'll retorque again tomorrow.

https://i.imgur.com/wKYOuxV.jpg?1

[tmontague]

Awesome job, just a slight massage!

[06YarisRS]

It certainly is!
It looks bigger than specs on the site. Must be skinny plank flooring that it is resting on.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

Here are some measurements, WeeYari. The dimensions listed on the site are based on the core size. The overall length is about 27" including the end caps.

https://i.imgur.com/Cjx4RN0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YJHIINo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wKjGnBl.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Awesome job, just a slight massage!

Haha. Thanks man

[06YarisRS]

HVAC?

I'm hoping that I didn't damage my HVAC when "messaging" my firewall. I don't know of anyone that has had their HVAC (condensor/heater core, controller unit) out. Before I started pounding on the firewall, I slid my fingers up behind the unit and it appeared there was enough room - at the bottom. I can still get my fingers between the firewall and blower unit at the bottom. But, the unit takes a turn back to the firewall and I'm not sure how close it gets. Judging by the rubber drain hose, the unit itself seems higher up.

Wish me luck...I'm going start the car (a real racket it will be with just the log manifold) and I'll test my HVAC and see if everything is operational. Serious fingers crossed as this is a job that I REALLY don't want to get into! :eek:

I did find this post in which CT Scott shows pics of the unit. I tired working my miraculous spatial geometry skills, but it got me no further toward determining how close the unit rests to the firewall. It does look like it is supported on a crossbar under the dash, and there was no evidence of fasteners on the outside area of the firewall that I abused.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48284

https://i.imgur.com/j5FzSbb.jpg

[CrankyOldMan]

Yeah, the HVAC unit is a real monster to get out. I took a Yaris dash completely apart at the junk yard once and wasn't able to get it out. I think this is why some setups have moved the turbo into the air box space.

[06YarisRS]

Yeah, the HVAC unit is a real monster to get out. I took a Yaris dash completely apart at the junk yard once and wasn't able to get it out. I think this is why some setups have moved the turbo into the air box space.

Hey, Sam. Yeah, it's in there pretty good. At lunch, on a whim, I went out to the parking lot and peeled back the carpet on my '08. If I'm correct, I have avoided damage to the unit as the mounting points seem to straddle the area that I pounded in. I'll check the actual car when I get home to confirm. There appears that I may have had just enough room to make the indentation. I wish I still had my borescope, then I'd know for sure.

Update: Fortunately, no damage to the HVAC that I can see. Removing the glovebox helps as well, but I can see from the passenger side that the dent lands, as suspected, between the plastic mounting tabs on the HVAC module. Yay!

Primed and painted "dent".

https://i.imgur.com/QA9lSco.jpg

If I get time tonight, I hope to take the dogbone off, clean, degrease that and fill it with urethane. With the dogbone removed, I'll be able to rock the engine a bit to see how much actual clearance I do have. If clearances are good, I'll degrease, prime and paint the depression. Also, planning to trim that fugly firewall blanket.

Next Steps:

- Drill hole and tap for oil return fitting

- Mount turbo, permanently (done)

[06YarisRS]

Tonight's Tinkering

When I was under the car removing the dogbone to fill it with urethane, I had a mild panic situation as I noticed that the compressor out nozzle was aiming directly at the subframe, several inches from a direct down shot to the space between the axle and the subframe. I assumed that in the Corolla the opening is much larger and the pipe went straight down through. So, I started calculating that I'd need an offset coupler (if such a thing exists) a bit of pipe and a few clamps. Much to my delight, I dug through my boxes and then referred again to the install manual, and there is a 45 coupler that attaches to the compressor outlet and the pipe it joins also starts with a 45. A little trimming (which you have to do too with the Corolla) and the piping fits perfectly! So happy!

https://i.imgur.com/kFs5N0U.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VR06PAQ.jpg?1

The other thing I did tonight was fill my mount with urethane. The mount was a bit rusty and a bit of the rubber at the top had started to peel away as rust formed under it. I trimmed off these small sections, scraped off the rust. I wire brushed the complete mount (rubber and all) with soapy water and the degreased with lacquer thinner. I also bored out the holes a bit so I could get full contact through the mount.

I probably wouldn't have had to strengthen this mount at all as when I removed the dogbone, I could rock the engine a bit. At it's farthest back position - where it contacts the rubber seal on the subframe, the turbo still had about 3/4" clearance. The engine won't go back that far I'm sure anyway with the dogbone in. On the upside, maybe I'll get a little better power response with the tighter mount. If it's too rough and I don't like it, I'll either drill a few small holes in it or order a new mount and install that.

https://i.imgur.com/txvZQrf.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/VcYlMXX.jpg?1


Finished Mount. Man, this thing is stiff! And, I don't think it's 100% cured yet. I lathered the mount with rust converter and let it sit for about an hour. Then washed it, 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of rust paint. While it's out, I'll clean out the recess in the subframe and shoot some Fluid Film in there. Fortunately the recess is pretty much rust free as I'd blasted product in there during my rustproofing sessions.

https://i.imgur.com/Hh7bLS2.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Hoping to do the turbo oil drain this evening. It will involve draining the oil, removing the pan, drilling a 9/16" hole in the block, tapping for 3/8" NPT, installing and sealing the nipple with high temp RTV.

As much as I wanted to buy a pneumatic angle drill for my compressor setup, I couldn't justify the cost, so I went with the DeWalt angle drill attachment. Also picked up a 3/8" NPT tap at Princess Auto for $7.49 and a 3-pack of step bits for $12.99.

Canadian Tire had Pennzoil Platinum on sale - about the same as what I'd pay stateside at Walmart, so I grabbed one of those jugs. I'll run full synthetic from now on in this car.

https://i.imgur.com/ToPJ69P.jpg?1

Update: This job is almost done:

Pan removal. Such a pleasure working on an engine that is relatively new. Bolts came off so easily.

https://i.imgur.com/c1pEb06.jpg

Toyota sure loves their RTV. Took about 1/2 hour to get the pan off without damaging the pan itself or the mating surface. I used a thin bladed utility knife, carefully, around the perimeter between the pan and block.

https://i.imgur.com/USA1lQt.jpg

Pan Off

https://i.imgur.com/lzgd5KQ.jpg

A+ DeWalt. 90 degree attachment worked like an absolute charm.

https://i.imgur.com/Kzw6KiA.jpg?1

This part was scary. I've tapped lots of sheet steel but never cast. The tap cut nicely with lots of rotations and counter rotations, but I was afraid that the block was going to crack. 9/16" hole drilled for 3/8" NPT threads.

https://i.imgur.com/2v4MJTM.jpg

Threads in perfectly and should be almost touching the block when tightened down with teflon tape and then high temp, oil-resistant RTV on both sides of the fitting.

https://i.imgur.com/J8vmpHN.jpg

Tomorrow, I'll go out and thoroughly clean out all the tiny metal fragments from drilling and remove all the old RTV from the mating surface. I'll use plastic razor blades to ensure no damage to the mating surface. I'll wash everything down with thinner for a better bond with the RTV both on the mating surface and the new fitting, then use compressed air. Finally, reinstall the pan and connect the hose from the turbo drain to the new fitting.

My son has a hockey tournament today, so I may not get much done beyond the above.

Next steps:

- attach new "tee" adapter to oil pressure sensor port on engine
- run turbo oil supply line from "tee" to turbo
- intercept heater hoses with coolant supply lines for turbo

[06YarisRS]

Oil pan has been reinstalled. I'll retorque the bolts tomorrow as well as clean up the RTV on the bottom of the pan.

https://i.imgur.com/jqCWGaR.jpg

Turbo end plumbing done and wastegate actuator reinstalled. I have to cut about 2 inches off the steel braided oil return line as it will rub on the subframe. The Yaris has a smaller opening at the front of the subframe which would account for the shortening of the hose. Not sure how I'll cut the hose, but it will likely involve unwinding the braid then cutters or a hacksaw to cut the rubber. The two outside hoses are the coolant in and out and the middle (larger hose) is the oil return.

https://i.imgur.com/eXOBZSw.jpg

Just found a video on a good way to cut the braided hose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwcVAyarCHM

UPDATE: Cut and hooked up oil drain hose. Also cut and connected the compressor to waste actuator pressure tube. Last night I got thinking about whether or not I had cleaned out the pan and lower block well enough. From the drilling there was a lot of swarf (aluminum filings) from the drilling and tapping process. I had cleaned it reasonably well, but my mind got the better of me, so I removed the pan again tonight and made sure there was nothing left in there. It was actually really clean but I blasted the area (well below the crank and main bearings) thoroughly with brake cleaner, use numerous microfiber cloths and compressed air. It's spotless now. The oil from the pan is routed through the pump to the oil filter so I expect nothing would have gotten through, but I've spent too much time and money to have the engine and turbo destroyed by some rogue filings.

https://i.imgur.com/VOWi5cB.jpg

Next Steps:

- hook up oil supply fittings at pressure sensor port
- hook coolant lines to the heater hoses
- Install downpipe
- Install K&N turbo compressor intake air filter
- install transmission cooler (I bought a tube and fin cooler a few years ago and never used it.)

Once everything is bolted up - and before the AEM F/IC is wired in - I'll verify oil flow through the supply line (disconnected from turbo) turning the car over without starting. I will prime the turbo with oil just in case I detect an oil supply issue. I'll have to look up which fuses to pull to kill the ignition and injectors. Then I'll run the car and check for oil and water leaks. In the meantime, I'll be ordering an oil pressure gauge and will have to swap the fitting that comes with the kit for a tee to add the oil pressure gauge.

[06YarisRS]

OK, so this is where some of the real modification begins. Any parts that are directly connected to the engine, I'll try to keep a small space on the order of 1/4" and I'll glue rubber pads on possible wear areas. I'm hoping to achieve 1/2" - 3/4" or more between piping and chassis parts, but this will be a challenge. Again, rubber pads and or sections of split rubber hose will be glued in all possible wear areas. I'm just loose fitting everything for now. It will all come apart, cleaned and obviously attached with the T clamps.

I was very happy that I did manage to get the MAF pipe in and down below the headlight. This was the piece that I figured would need to be cut and coupled, but I got lucky. I may have to move back or slightly downsize my battery as there's only about 1/4" clearance between it and the MAF pipe. Fitting it in there did require unclipping some of the small harnesses and tapping over a few tabs, but I'll re-secure the wires when I'm done.

https://i.imgur.com/9DPTiLs.jpg

There are going to have to be mods done to the intercooler piping. The pipe that connects to the driver's side of the intercooler will require about 6" cut off, bead rolled and a 45 degree 2.5" x 3" silicone coupler. Some metal needs to be removed to attach to the intercooler. On the upside, it looks as though all of the piping will tuck in close enough to the car that none of it should interfere with my bumper cover/foglights etc. That's a bonus, lol.

https://i.imgur.com/9AdY3dl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/0EkrQn7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DB63fam.jpg

The left side of intercooler will also require mods, This one is fairly simple. I'll have to cut 3" - 4" inches off the aluminum piping, bead roll the end and attach the 90 degree 2.5" x 3" coupler.

https://i.imgur.com/12iXDHy.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6m2oyKP.jpg

Here is another challenge. The Corolla has a much wider opening in the subframe. I had initially thought that I'd have clearance but I don't. The 45 degree coupler that connects to the turbo and goes down to meet the pipe is touching the subframe. I could clock the turbo a few more degrees, but that would put a little side pressure on the wastegate actuator arm, which I am reluctant to do. I may have to buy a couple of different couplers and try to sidestep that pesky subframe. It's also just touching the oil return line. I'm not worried about heat or chaffing as the two will move together as they are both one with the engine. However, I'll try to figure something out to remedy that.

https://i.imgur.com/RRKHWoi.jpg

This section of pipe should be fairly easy but may also require a little trimming and bead rolling to shorten the overall length. This pipe has to go up but also much closer to the oil pan.

https://i.imgur.com/eOtaw2Y.jpg

Here's a front-on shot. Please excuse the mess. I think tomorrow I'll go out and do some tidying.

https://i.imgur.com/OBVVA2F.jpg?1



So, overall I'm fairly happy about how this part of the project is going. I hadn't intended to tackle the charge piping at all this eveing, but I did remove the airbox because I'm trying to address another probem that could only be tackled with the removal of the airbox and the MAF pipe in situ. Anyone care to guess why I'm looking for extra space in the engine bay? :biggrin:

[tmontague]

I would recommend just taking an air hammer or cutoff wheel to the flat part of the subframe touching the pipe from the turbo (then repaint).

That part isn't very sructural and is mostly just left over from when the steel is stamped. That is the part of the subframe I air hammered on mine to better clear the transmission to make it easier to remove and re install.

Good work so far, this is coming along nicely

[06YarisRS]

I would recommend just taking an air hammer or cutoff wheel to the flat part of the subframe touching the pipe from the turbo (then repaint).

That part isn't very sructural and is mostly just left over from when the steel is stamped. That is the part of the subframe I air hammered on mine to better clear the transmission to make it easier to remove and re install.

Good work so far, this is coming along nicely

Thanks! I will do this as you recommend, however, it's the upper rounded corner section of the sub frame that the hose of hitting. It's actually not touching the stamped steel lip, but it might when the engine torques, so, yes, I will do as you recommend. The challenge will clearing the upper forward part of the subframe. It's likely going to require some combination of couplers. I'll try to get a better pic of what I'm describing.

My other issue is that I have very little room for an air filter. The smallest filter that even stands a chance of fitting between the turbo and frame/firewall has a flow rate of 283 CFM (K&N RU-2420). The filter that comes with the kit (K&N RU-3700) is rated at 380 CFM. According to various CFM for boost calculators, I'd be close to - if not slightly over the limit with the 283 CFM filter at 0.55 bar (~8 psi). I'll post a link to a couple calculators below. So, this brings me to the question of which approach to take. I'd love the have a large filter positioned where the stock airbox goes for a few reasons: colder air, larger CFM and less chance of filter loading from road debris resulting in reduced filter flow rate. But, obviously that necessitates an extensive custom intake set up which is both expensive and complicated to install.

My target is about 7 psi boost, so I could probably get away with the smaller filter attached to the turbo, but I think it's less than Ideal. I'd rather a larger filter, honestly.

Calculator 1:

https://www.boosttown.com/forced_induction/air_amount_calculator.php

I used the following variables:

Engine RPM: 6000
Engine Size: 1800
VE: 90 (I'm guessing as I couldn't find any info on the VE of the 2ZR N/A)
Boost: 0.55


Calculator 2:

https://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/CFM.html

I used the following variables:

Engine Size (cc): 1800
RPM: 6000
VE:1.55 (drop down te VE menu and select, "Enter a specific value)

[myfirstyota]

Looks like a battery relocate is on the horizon?

[06YarisRS]

Looks like a battery relocate is on the horizon?

Haha, I certainly hope not. There's actually lots of room in there for a good sized filter. After all the tweaks I'm having to do, I really don't want to tackle a custom intake, but I really think it's the best route in the long run.

I'll tell ya, I wish I'd been able to access some of this stuff before struggling with making this bloody turbo outlet coupler clear the subframe.

http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=127433

[06YarisRS]

Turbo Re-clocking

In order to get clearance for the coupler coming off the turbo - it was hitting the subframe - I had to reclock the turbo a few degrees, aiming it a little more straight down. Of course, this put sideways strain on the wastegate actuator arm. This would not be good as it might not jam, but it might bind a bit - not something you want happening to your wastegate actuator.

I used my dremel tool to make the bolt holes in the actuator support bracket into slots.

https://i.imgur.com/149sTrE.jpg

I also made slight slots in the holes where the actuator mounts to the bracket as well as englaged the hole that the actuator arm goes through.

https://i.imgur.com/EQ6I8yc.jpg

With the turbo re-clocked and the two above modifications, the actuator arm is once again at 90 degrees to the actuator and the wastegate arm. I also managed to gain 1/4" clearance between the couple and the subframe. Before the pipe was pressed against the subframe and deformed. I'm pretty sure there will be no issues as if the pipe makes contact with the subframe under load, it will just be pressing a bit on the flexible coupler and not rubbing per se. Once I attach the forward intercooler pipes, I can pull it a bit farther from the subframe. There is a bracket that attaches another rubber coupler a bit farther forward to one of the AC compressor bolts which will hold everything in place.

The coupler is touching the oil drain braided hose, but I'm not concerned as these two items move in unison. I'll put a little rubber tubing between the braided hose and turbo coupler for good measure.

https://i.imgur.com/dXF38U0.jpg

[stidnam]

Just going back a page or two, the manifold looks like it places the turbo as close to the block as you could get. I'm wondering though if you had the option to make a manifold from scratch, could you have done so and maintained required clearances without the need to massage the firewall? And been able to still route the exhaust, intake and cooler piping? E.g. by moving the turbo to the left or up or down...

[06YarisRS]

Just going back a page or two, the manifold looks like it places the turbo as close to the block as you could get. I'm wondering though if you had the option to make a manifold from scratch, could you have done so and maintained required clearances without the need to massage the firewall? And been able to still route the exhaust, intake and cooler piping? E.g. by moving the turbo to the left or up or down...

I would say yes to a custom manifold and clearance providing there was room for the wastegate actuator as it is between the block and turbo. I wish the kit had come with the option of a T25 for two reasons: more clearance and faster spooling at lower rpms. I expect you could do anything with custom exhaust and charge/intake piping.

On another note, I'm considering picking up a different intercooler. Ebay has ones with lower ports that wouldn't require me to cut as much body metal. Plus, they have threaded fittings on the bottom and top as opposed to the brackets which would make install much easier. The ones I've been looking at are also 2" or 2.5" deep as opposed to the kit intercooler at 3". Frankly, this intercooler is going to be a bit of a PITA to install in the Yaris.

[06YarisRS]

The plot thickens

Before starting to go crazy with my grinder, I figured I'd better put the front on the car so I could actually see what space restrictions I'm dealing with. Well, I thought I would have more space near the foglights. As you can see in the picture below, There is just enough space for the pipe to go down through but the piping rubs on the corregated crumple zone and the foglight body. If I remove the crumple zone tabs, there will be adequate room. However, I'm not really enthusiastic about that, so my plan is to bend them upwards to the frame.

I will have to cut the piece of charge pipe that has the blowoff valve, just below where the blowoff valve mounts and then use some different angled couplers to make it mate with the intercooler outlet. I think a lot of this could be simplified with an intercooler that has the inlet and outlet at the bottom. I'm also coming up at a bit of a loss as to how to mount the intercooler. The brackets that come with the kit for the Corolla are useless in this project - but that's to be expected. I hope to make a decision about which intercooler I'll use but first want to check with the guys at turbokits.com to see if it will in any way affect the tune. I don't think it will, but I'm trying to keep the kit as close to the way it came as is possible.

There is one small upside to all of this though. The angle I have to put the blowoff valve pipe at necessitates a rotation of the MAF (intake to throttle body pipe) which now gives me more room between this pipe and the battery - a good 1.5" - 1.75". Bonus!

May plan is to use longer couplers and not push the pipes in too far. This should give me lots of flex in the system to accommodate engine torquing.

Pics of the tight space:

https://i.imgur.com/xeFWbsx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/b6EUg03.jpg

[ern-diz]

Big props for the excellent documentation :clap:

[06YarisRS]

Big props for the excellent documentation :clap:

Thanks, ern-diz! I appreciate that. The documentating helps me maintain enthusiasm as I encounter one challenge after another. It also keeps me focused on what needs to be done next. I think there's something inherently wrong with me, in that I crave these projects even though they amount to one minor frustration after another. :laugh:

[06YarisRS]

I have spoken with the guys at turbokits.com and a different intercooler would, as suspected, have no impact on the operation of the system, or the tune. So, I am ordering an intercooler and a series of pipes and couplers this evening. I'll post up some pics of the parts and an explanation of my plans. I'm also ordering a bunch of 3" piping, couplers, clamps etc to build a custom air intake for the turbo.

Here is a sketch of my intake setup. The main two upper pieces are 3" 90 degree elbows. The piece that attaches the filter to that is a 45 degree elbow. This piping runs behind the engine, then takes a 90 degree turn forward and goes under the rad hose and MAF pipe. The heater hose that attaches to the side of the block is being re-routed anyway as it's cut to supply the turbo for cooling. It will be tight but doable. It will need supports along the way. Fortunately, all of this is attached to the engine and therefor moves with the engine, so rubber padding to avoid chafing will need to be minimal. This places the filter right beside the headlight and down 4" - 6", where the OEM airbox used to sit. Sound be fun!

Pics. I may decide to use a 45 degree coupler and short piece of straight pipe where the filter attaches. The couplers do give a little extra flexibility. We'll see how it goes.

https://i.imgur.com/b7RcbG7.jpg

Parts

https://i.imgur.com/MN2O14U.jpg

Here is the intercooler that I plan to buy. It should make installation much easier and give me more room and better mounting options. It is a tube and fin as opposed to a plate and fin, but, again, I'm running such low boost that heat shouldn't be any issue. With the cold air intake I'm planning, I could probably get away without an intercooler altogether, but I wanna play it safe. :biggrin:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Front-Aluminum-Mount-Intercooler-27x7x2-5-inch-2-5-Inlet-Outlet-New/263672225472

https://i.imgur.com/LkP1xNO.jpg

Or, this one, which gets good reviews for a budget intercooler on the tubro boards:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EMUSA-universal-intercooler-27X7X2-5-2-5-I-O-NEW-27-x-7-x-2-1-2-2-1-2/131595103746?hash=item1ea3adee02:g:vzYAAOSwextZwI1 Q

https://i.imgur.com/q2UfuYY.jpg

My homemade bead roller. I couldn't justify a couple hundred $$ on a Princess Auto bead roller as nice as that would be, so I stole an idea from the net. It took a lot of filing and grinding but it works well. It makes a pretty good bead on flat aluminum, so I hope it will work well on the piping too. Not looking for perfection and you won't see the beading anyway as they're hidden under couplers. I'll post up a pic of a bead after I fit and cut the various pipes.

https://i.imgur.com/DTUdEeQ.jpg

[myfirstyota]

Its the learning process you crave. Much like many of us, I bet its the challenge you enjoy.

[06YarisRS]

Its the learning process you crave. Much like many of us, I bet its the challenge you enjoy.

For sure, myfirstyota. I have to constantly fight the urge to rush things/take shortcuts. That said, a lot of aspects of the project are compromises.

I was out investigating how the heater hoses will play with my planned intake. It looks as though it will work with the trickiest part being getting the 3" piping down between the block side heater port and rad hose. I may need to splice in a coupler there for flexibility. Since I'm having to cut the heater hoses to attach to the turbo, I can then rotate the cut pipe ends out of the way. I'll also need to shave about 3/8" off the plastic battery tray. Interestingly, I had an old R134 A/C refrigerant can lying around and it's precisely 3" in diameter. I used it to test clearance for the 3" intake pipes. Worked like a charm. There is one cast tab on the head at the back of the motor that will need to be ground down slightly, as well as the removal of a steel bracket that I think was used for a harness support. I'll also have to slightly bend the transmission dipstick tube and overflow tube a bit out of the way. Other than that, it looks like a reasonably clear path.

[tmontague]

i love this thread. great progress made and that home made bead roller is something else. How did you manage to make that?

[06YarisRS]

i love this thread. great progress made and that home made bead roller is something else. How did you manage to make that?

Thanks Trevor! It's short piece of 1/4 steel rod welded onto the top jaw. This I had done by our shop teacher as I don't weld. I had to curve the 1/4" rod with a flat file as obviously I'm beading round pipe. I then used a pneumatic grinder and roughed out the cup in the bottom jaw and finished with a rat tail file. It's far from perfect but seems to work great.

[06YarisRS]

Planned 3" Intake Routing

This will be a touchy project, but I'm confident it can be done.

Explanations are in the pics...

https://i.imgur.com/yjJAoTD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/sNdQaRr.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5R0THIA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/XsGpTtc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3v3xDzs.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Downpipe Installed

Another job during which I wish I had 3 - 4 hands. The holes in the downpipe flange are large - for a good reason - to allow for lots of play when fitting the pipe (necessary). This makes it want to bounce around a lot while installing. It also allows for an improper alignment if you're not careful. I had to support the pipe on the crossmember to maintain the approximate 1" - 1.5" vertical clearance while at the same time trying not to mess up my high temp copper rtv that is on both sides of the metal flange gasket. The nuts that attach the downpipe to the turbo (same type that attach the turbo to the manifold) are soft copper which is great as they bite well and shouldn't back off with the included Belleville washers installed under the nuts.


https://i.imgur.com/x1Gv4OK.jpg

Man, this baby should flow! The Corolla obviously has its post-cat 02 sensor entering from the passenger side as opposed to the Yaris, from the driver's side. However, I'll be installing a cat, so a large section of the beautiful 3" stainless steel after the braided flex joint will have to go. :cry: I'll have a bung welded into the pipe after the cat. I may need to extend the wire on the sensor and attach it somewhere in the tunnel. I haven't reinstalled the heat shield yet, but will as there is lots of room to get back under the downpipe. It's an absolutely lovely downpipe btw.

I looked like a dude from a Brylcreem ad from all the goey undercoating under my car. Ewww... :laugh:

https://i.imgur.com/kXW8VqY.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Turbo Coolant Hoses

Only had an hour and bit tonight but got a small job done.

Fortunately the hoses were molded in a way that I could cut them up and use them. Thankfully turbokits allowed enough steel braided coolant hose length to attach to the car's heater lines from any angle.

https://i.imgur.com/HWHkh8r.jpg

Cleared up a large amount of space. The 3" intake piping should fit easily now down and through to the stock airbox area for filter placement. I removed the battery and trimmed back the tray; allowing myself an additional 3/8" - 1/2" space. The only challenge left here is that the heater hose that goes into the firewall will be almost touching the 3" piping. If the engine rocks back, it may pinch the hose a bit. But, the 3" 90 piping I ordered has a very gradual curve (I guess mainly for smooth air flow), but the radius may work out perfectly; leaving space for the heater hose at the firewall. Fingers crossed. If that fails, I'll figure out a way to solder on a 90 fitting on the firewall heater hose connection.

I'm hoping that with all this additional plumbing, I won't have difficulty priming the cooling system.

https://i.imgur.com/DcoUmLp.jpg

A shot from below. I'll use a good heat resistant zip tie or something else to secure these two hoses together where they cross eachother. Other than that, the turbo braided hoseing is rigid enough that it is not touching any part of the car or engine...bonus.

https://i.imgur.com/451qNWV.jpg

Tomorrow, time permitting, I'm going to prime the turbo with oil and hook up the oil supply line.

[06YarisRS]

Check out my crappy videos...

Some day I'll make better ones.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eA94Ow5-ow

and...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Edvs_TSGkY

[06YarisRS]

Turbo Oil Supply Line

This job had its moments. It all came together though. I'll know for sure later when I look for leaks.

Removing Oil Sensor

https://i.imgur.com/Y1UhKRz.jpg

Parts going together. I used some teflon tape on some parts and rtv on others.

https://i.imgur.com/VjnQjkm.jpg

Installing the fittings requires retapping the sensor port hole. I think it's just to clean the threads in preparation for the brass fitting. I used a well greased 1/8" NPT tap, but still managed to create some filings. This worried me as it's a direct shot from there - passing through no filtering, I think, to the turbo. Although the grease retained most of the filings, there were some in the block. So, I diligently flushed it many times with brake cleaner and wiped out with a microfiber to towel, then rinsed again. There's no evidence of any filings, so I should be good.

Grease covered tap.

https://i.imgur.com/QiJzBIU.jpg

Tapping

https://i.imgur.com/XxXlh8S.jpg

Fittings installed

https://i.imgur.com/aElcG3V.jpg

Line attached. I'm going to do a flow test soon. The engine will not start, but I'll look for evidence of oil coming from the turbo end of the supply line after I prime the turbo with oil. Hopefully, starter speed will provide enough pressure to flow oil up and through the line.

https://i.imgur.com/GpmghSX.jpg

After the test, I'll hook up the end to the turbo. Routing the supply line up to the turbo is going to be a bit of a challenge, involving good heat resistant zip ties. The supply line is very long, presumeably to allow keeping it far from hot parts such as the manifold and turbo compressor.

[06YarisRS]

A Slow Weekend...

Didn't get much done due to being away visiting family. A couple things project-related did happen though.

I fixed an issue I had with the oil return line. It had a very, very slight uphill curve going into the oil pan. I reclocked the center section of the turbo, cut 1/2" off the pipe and reinstalled. The front of the car is higher on the jackstands than the back, so once the car is lowered, I should have a very good downhill run to the pan. However, I'm going to temporarily replace the steel braided hose with clear braided hose of the precise length and test the oil drain with the car still nose-high. I imagine I'll be in boost on a few long hills from time to time. As a positive spinnoff of clocking the center section of the turbo, my coolant lines are now a wee bit father away from the downpipe. I have about 1.5" - 2" clearance. I'll wrap those in the aluminum tape that came with the kit. I should be fine heatwise as I've read online about people with lines closer to the downpipe who have had no issues.

I also addressed the clearance issue between the first charge pipe and the subframe. This I did by shortening both legs of the coupler, allowing the aluminum pipe to go up farther into the engine bay. Although I've read the install manual myriad times, somehow I missed the trimming of the 45 coupler (RTFM, more carefully, silly boy, lol). I now have about 1/2" clearance where before I had slightly less than 1/4". Since I still haven't tightened up my dogbone mount, I rocked the engine back and forth and the piping doesn't contact the subframe. Yay! I had a few inches of turbo to wastegate hose left (after clocking the turbo way back when, I had to shorten this hose) and it worked perfectly as a contact pad between the charge pipe and engine casting rib. I degreased the rib and hose and glued it on with a bit of RTV. Worked great! I'm going to use a bunch of this around the car for all potential contact areas between the turbo piping and body/frame etc.

https://i.imgur.com/mRjFpEO.jpg

In other news, most of the stuff for my custom intake has arrived to my US destination. I hope to start to work on that about mid week. I may get the urge to hook up the stock airbox and start the car, but I'll try to wait until my intake is finished.

Lastly, I'm going to ask the turbokits guys if I can get a shorter oil feed line. The one with the kit is quite long. I need one less than 1/2 the length of what came with the kit. There's probably a lot more space in the Corolla to route that around than there is in the Yaris.

[CrankyOldMan]

Awesome news! Super stoked to see this happening!

[06YarisRS]

Awesome news! Super stoked to see this happening!

Yup, getting exciting. Looking forward to working on my intake this week.

[06YarisRS]

No pics tonight, but I completed some modifications to the heater hoses to provide more clearance for my rather large intake pipe setup. There are a bunch of old engines in our shop that the kids are dismantling and putting back together. They will never be put in cars, so I scavenged a couple of 5/8" heather hoses with tight elbows, cut them up and replaced portions of my stock hoses. This gives me more room at the firewall to run my 3" piping. It also allowed me to gain more clearance as the coolant lines for the turbo loop under the down pipe. I have a bit more length to secure the hoses with either high heat zipties of metal zipties.

Really hoping this weekend to top up with fluids and crank the car over without starting and observing the oil flow back to the pan via the temporary clear braided hose. If all looks well. I'll attach the oem airbox and run the car a bit. Should be nice and loud - painfully, I bet - with that massive 3" downpipe. After I determine that there are no leaks, or if there are, fix them, I'll set to work on the intercooler piping. Then will come the injectors and F/IC wiring.

[06YarisRS]

Intake and new intercooler

Here is a pic of the custom 3" intake. Not too bad for just under $80.00 for the piping, couplers, clamps and filter. The right section which is lying flat will rotate upwards about 45 degrees and if everything goes as planned, the filter will land right where the oem airbox once resided. This intake should flow really well. The true test will be tomorrow when I actually go to install it. I will have to cut about 5"-6" off the left curved pipe which is great as it will serve two purposes: 1) it will place the coupler away from the heat of the manifold and turbine and 2) it will give me the few inches of pipe I need to attach the filter. Right now, the filter is just resting there and not attached. The section of the intake running between the two elbows will be wrapped in reflective heat tape.

Also in the pic is the new intercooler. $60.00 for what seems like a very solid and sturdy EMUSA intercooler doesn't press the budget too much. The intercooler, which comes easily modified mounting brackets should really simplify the the plumbing at the front of the car. The other two coupers (2.5" 90 and 45) are to assist in mounting the intercooler.

https://i.imgur.com/qhDb6yt.jpg?1

[06YarisRS]

Intake Modding and Test Fitting

As suspected, this is a lot of work. I worked on clearing the path. First, by removing a couple little nubs protruding from the head that were in the path of the piping. There is only a pic of one that I removed. This one was removed with my 4" angle grinder. The other I had to use my recip saw with a metal cutting blade.

https://i.imgur.com/P7uOBe7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EvA93mV.jpg

Despite bending the A/C tubes, I only had about 1/4" between the intake piping and A/C lines. I shaped the intake pipe with BFH, covered by a cloth. The dent is fairly smooth and shouldn't affect airflow. There is a solid 1" - 1.5" clearance now. I'm still going to figure out a way to bend the short straight section of A/C line a bit although I'm pretty sure I already have enough clearance.

https://i.imgur.com/YfOhwI6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mJHSGHK.jpg

Cutting the piping was messy as I used my angle grinder with cutting disk. I spent a lot of time deburring.

https://i.imgur.com/W5Dcgw4.jpg

Unfortuntely, no pics of the bead rolling. I still have a section to do and will post pics of that next time. This pipe is very heavy gauge and my hands are pretty stiff now after bead rolling only 2 pieces of piping.

Test-fitting of parts. To address where the pipe might make contact with the head bolt flanges, I'll either slide a piece of coupler on the pipe where it might abrade the piping. Or, I'll figure out some form of clamping device, metal strapping on rubber that could surround the pipe and bolt to the head. Or, both.

https://i.imgur.com/9XsXA33.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lTBcZ7G.jpg

Unfortunately, the section of pipe that I had to remove from the elbows was a bit short and the base of the filter is contacting the transmission and dipstick tube. I need a piece about 3"-4" longer. The filter will be pushed out that distance from where is is in the pic.

https://i.imgur.com/Lc86dFJ.jpg

As the engine bay gets more crowded, I'm starting to worry about airflow around the engine and turbo. As much as I hate the thought of it, I may ultimately have to install vents or a reverse hood scoop. I could also mount a low profile, thermostatically-controlled fan under the hood scoop. I guess I'll know when I start driving and at the tuner's if there will be an issue. I ordered a bunch of fiberglass reflective tubing for my water lines and oil supply line, though these are all a decent distance from the manifold, turbine and downpipe. Also considering a turbo blanket. The entire section of the intake that goes along the back of the engine will be covered in reflective fiberglass tape. I'll likely wrap the downpipe too.

[06YarisRS]

Today's progress

I had to 'mould' the intake piping more, especially by the right side of the engine. I was worried about the piping chafing on the upper valve cover bolts. I have acceptable clearance everywhere now and the pipe has been wrapped with the fiberglass reflective tape. All I have do now is make something to rigidly hold the piping in the center, where the coupler is to the back of the valve cover. I liked the look of the aluminum piping better before being wrapped, but it will all be hidden anyway.

https://i.imgur.com/Ni7Wvo9.jpg

New intercooler mounted. The hardware worked perfectly for attaching the intercooler to the bottom lip of the lower front frame. Funny thing is that they only sent 2 bolts and washers, but the intercooler has threaded posts for both top and bottom. Maybe it's only supposed to be attached either top or bottom and the couplers do the rest of the holding, allowing it to move a bit.

https://i.imgur.com/9lcex1e.jpg

A little bump stop. There is about 3/4 of an inch between the intercooler and crash bar, but I figured I'd play it safe. More of that great turbo wastegate hose attached with RTV.

https://i.imgur.com/HTaglxw.jpg

Piping connected. I still make contact with the foglight, but just have a few spots to bend over and grind away. I should have lots of clearance after I do that.

https://i.imgur.com/flI8ItT.jpg

[tmontague]

Looking good man, keep it up!

[06YarisRS]

Looking good man, keep it up!

Thanks, Trevor. I appreciate it. It's a fun project.

A question for ya... You put a sandwich plate in after you upgraded to the screw-on filter mount, correct? Did you install an oil cooler?

[tmontague]

Thanks, Trevor. I appreciate it. It's a fun project.

A question for ya... You put a sandwich plate in after you upgraded to the screw-on filter mount, correct? Did you install an oil cooler?

correct, this was the primary reason for my screw on filter mount upgrade.

I did not install a cooler however, there should be enough space in that area for oil lines you will just have to figure out a way to strap the lines secure as they run out to the cooler. They will technically run alongside the bottom end of the block.

[06YarisRS]

correct, this was the primary reason for my screw on filter mount upgrade.

I did not install a cooler however, there should be enough space in that area for oil lines you will just have to figure out a way to strap the lines secure as they run out to the cooler. They will technically run alongside the bottom end of the block.

Thanks. I had read that many of the sandwich plates would not fit due to proximity to the block, but obviously that's not true. There must be narrow ones available that have a small enough diameter to fit. Secondly, I'm thinking it might be a good idea to have an oil cooler, or minimally, at least initially, monitor oil temps. I was speaking to one of my son's hockey teammate's fathers who has built a number of performance cars, and he said that, in no uncertain terms, I should have an oil cooler. I hadn't mentioned to him that the turbo is water cooled, so that should make a difference. A cooler would also provide a little addditional oil in the system to aid in cooling.

How are you monitoring oil temps? Did you put a sensor in your sandwich plate? Unfortunately, Torque doesn't have access to that PID.

I am definitely installing a transmission cooler, but am on the fence about an oil cooler at this point.

[06YarisRS]

Piping Frame Mods

The right side piping now fits fine with about 3/8" - 1/2" clearance between body parts and charge piping at all locations. I'm still going to install rubber tubing at all locations with sharp edges. I'll pick up 4' - 5' of the smallest diameter rubber fuel line, cut and glue that with RTV to all potential wear areas. All that remains to do now at this corner of the car is to degrease, lightly sand, prime, paint and oil spray all the metal bits that I cut and bent. I'll install the BOV and clamps after washing all of the piping inside and out with soapy water and degreaser.

Area to be dealt with.

https://i.imgur.com/hm7AAYg.jpg

Slotting crumple zone tabs

https://i.imgur.com/lotvSsL.jpg

Tabs pounded up

https://i.imgur.com/XzG8Qlh.jpg

Large flange slots cutting

https://i.imgur.com/WknH4rp.jpg

Good clearance

https://i.imgur.com/MdCHmlP.jpg

Fitting finished. Just need to trim up that right side intercooler coupler.

https://i.imgur.com/YQ2JpsL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TVDgtdQ.jpg


Update - Painted Frame Modifications

https://i.imgur.com/xLARotp.jpg

Rough placement of the transmission cooler. Will be picking up some hose this week and will run the cooler on the transmission return line, when I figure out which line it is.

https://i.imgur.com/5pSO2zq.jpg

[06YarisRS]

A Possible Breakthrough!

I had been pondering where to place my transmission cooler. I wasn't keen on stacking another cooling device in front of the radiator. I've also been concerned about my crowded engine bay and the potential of overheating.

There is a plastic shroud/cover that goes from the radiator over to the pasenger side. It covers a large opening behind which sits the A/C compressor. This opening is probably 1/3 of the width of the engine bay. If I place my transmission cooler in that area (it basically fills it with about a 1" space around the perimeter), I will accomplish a few things:

1) A much larger opening for cool air to enter the engine bay
2) No restriction to the radiator, better flow through it.
3) No heat transfer between the transmission cooler/rad and vvsa

I just have to make a mounting system for it. I have to do some reading on transmission cooler orientation. The way I propose, the tubes are vertical and I don't know if that would create an issue pumping the transmission fluid. I don't expect there would be an issue as it's very free flowing, but the fluid would be fighting gravity, but then again gravity would be helping on the downward runs. :iono:

EDIT: According to Derale, the coolers can be mounted vertically or horizontally.

https://i.imgur.com/TGKWc3L.jpg

[Maritime]

Nice. Looks like it was made to go there

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

Nice. Looks like it was made to go there

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

Haha, thanks. If I didn't have this one already, I would buy a plate and fin unit. However, this one should provide a lot of cooling as it's made for a mid-sized truck - half ton, I assume.

[tmontague]

Pro tip: transmission line that enters the trans high up tends to be the return line. The line that attaches low on the trans housing tends to be the feed line.

I went with that when flushing the trans fluid on my wife's Vibe and saved me quite a mess.

[06YarisRS]

Pro tip: transmission line that enters the trans high up tends to be the return line. The line that attaches low on the trans housing tends to be the feed line.

I went with that when flushing the trans fluid on my wife's Vibe and saved me quite a mess.

Good to know. Thanks much! Any idea how much pressure a typical A/T cooling circuit has?

[tmontague]

Good to know. Thanks much! Any idea how much pressure a typical A/T cooling circuit has?

No idea, but I cannot he nearly as much as a braking system, steering system etc based off of the fitting and hose clamp styles that are used

[06YarisRS]

Pro tip: transmission line that enters the trans high up tends to be the return line. The line that attaches low on the trans housing tends to be the feed line.

I went with that when flushing the trans fluid on my wife's Vibe and saved me quite a mess.

This confirms your explanation. I found this in my U340E Transmission service manual. Now, I am assuming "Inlet" and "Outlet" refer to the direction of fluid flow relative to the engine and not the cooler.

https://i.imgur.com/e3WXstr.jpg

Hoping to source some of these locally. I figure there's no reason I can't just put these through the upper loops of the trans cooler to support the top. I'll figure something else to secure the bottom.

https://i.imgur.com/QkOVGUv.jpg

[ern-diz]

This is coming along so much faster than I expected. An absolute joy to follow.

[tmontague]

This confirms your explanation. I found this in my U340E Transmission service manual. Now, I am assuming "Inlet" and "Outlet" refer to the direction of fluid flow relative to the engine and not the cooler.

https://i.imgur.com/e3WXstr.jpg

Hoping to source some of these locally. I figure there's no reason I can't just put these through the upper loops of the trans cooler to support the top. I'll figure something else to secure the bottom.

https://i.imgur.com/QkOVGUv.jpg

yep, that diagram confirms it, lower hose is from pump, upper is drain hose back to trans.

Those hose clamps are readily available from Princess auto for a decent price. I used 3/8" ones for my main 4gauge power line for my batter relocation and they worked very well. Not sure if a Princess Auto is close to you but they do ship from their online store

[myfirstyota]

Home depot may have them in their catv installation section. Not sure if princess is in NB as Trevor stated.

[06YarisRS]

Thanks gents. The local store had a pack of 15 1/2" ones for $6.00 and change. They work absolutely prefectly for planned installation. I tested it on the cooler and it holds it nice and tight on the tube radius when screwed down. I'll also use them for my 3/8 transmission cooler lines to keep everything nice and secure. More on this in my next post.

[06YarisRS]

Pipe Clamps

The cramped space of the engine bay made this a really tough job. The coupler on the turbo compressor simply would not go on with the clamp even though I loosened the nut to the last thread. I had to grind down the collar on the clamp, and install it after the pipe was on. The clamp install on the 3" intake was marginally easier. I used a standard worm clamp on the intake as there's no pressure in that, and I used T clamps everywhere else.

https://i.imgur.com/Vw6AkvD.jpg?1

I have to significantly modify the right side intercooler pipe as it wants to be higher up due to the original intercooler. I think shortening one end and taking a couple inches out of the center and a short 2" coupler should do the trick.

https://i.imgur.com/Ro3DgqN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/u9O9Cse.jpg

A couple more clamp pics...

The intercooler looks damaged, but it's the reflection of the light. It's not nearly as bad as it looks and I'll straighten the fins out with the tip of my utility knife.

https://i.imgur.com/tEcEMat.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qAWuJn8.jpg

I had my '08 at school today and used the vernier calipers to confirm my suspicion that the trans cooler lines are 8mm (5/16"). I have found fittings and I'll use a 5/16" compression to 3/8 rubber barb fitting to and from the cooler.
I spoke with a transmission shop today and all fears about fluid restriction have been allayed. Also, running the cooler vertically will make no difference, apparently.

https://i.imgur.com/uMrTYvn.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Very little time tonight, but I installed the BOV and picked up some hardware for my trans cooler.


https://i.imgur.com/iTHrUDt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/P5h28FU.jpg

5/16" compression to 3/8" barb fittings and 8' of transmission cooler hose.

https://i.imgur.com/Rm9i7oJ.jpg?1

I'm going to move the trans cooler forward and install one of these behind it as a puller fan. I did some work on the A/C aluminum lines and hoses tonight. With minimal and careful bending, I cleared up a nice 3 1/2" to 3 3/4" space behind where the trans cooler will sit. The puller fan, mounted on the engine side of the trans cooler is only 2 1/3" deep, so there will be lots of room to exhaust the air into the engine bay. As much as I'd like a dedicated sensor and thermostat plumbed into the trans line to control the fan, I'm just going to hook it up to the radiator circuit and have it come on with the rad fan as this is the setup for.most trans/oil coolers.

https://i.imgur.com/Xf4f73K.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Transmission Fittings and Cooler Mounting

Compression fittings worked great. Simply cut off the bubble flares and installed the fittings. I'll have to loop the hose around and attach it to the chassis at a couple points with my rubber coated P clips. Glad I bought a long piece of hose.

From underneath.

https://i.imgur.com/yVzZND2.jpg

From above.

https://i.imgur.com/Lz9vmCD.jpg

Cooler mounted. Still have to secure the bottom with brackets.

From front.

https://i.imgur.com/Y9Xdx8d.jpg

From back. Lots of room to mount the 8" fan.

https://i.imgur.com/sV4u7vN.jpg

All the coolers.

https://i.imgur.com/9AnEfEc.jpg

I'm in Moncton, NB tomorrow for a conference and afterwards I'm going to visit BLP Dyno and Automotive, the guys who will be tuning my car. Looking forward to that. Maybe I'll get really lucky and see them tuning a car.

[tmontague]

Nice work! How do you plan in mounting the trans cooler? Also how will you be wiring your trans cooler fan, thermostatically controlled?

[06YarisRS]

Nice work! How do you plan in mounting the trans cooler? Also how will you be wiring your trans cooler fan, thermostatically controlled?

The cooler is secured at the top very solidly with the rubber coated P clips. They do a great job of holding it tight. I just have to fab up a couple small brackets for the bottom. I'm on the fence about the electrical. I was planning on just wiring it to the rad circuit but I know it's not ideal. I would love to have it separately controlled with its own thermostat but that would require a lot of additional plumbing, sensor port, relay etc. An engine oil cooler with fan wired to the rad fan makes sense to me as oil temp and coolant temps are reasonably close, but I expect trans fluid could get very hot before the coolant gets to the point where it commands the fan to turn on.

I was speaking to a transmission tech yesterday and he felt that wiring it to the rad fan is a viable option as most trans coolers sit in front of the rad. Not really sure what to do at this moment.

[myfirstyota]

Is the fan really needed? Just simply having an oil cooler is a great upgrade.

I would think the only time the cooler would need to do it's job is when you're givin'er. There should be enough air flow through the cooler when your right foot is down, no?

I'd save the extra weight and money

[06YarisRS]

Decided to buy one of these. I'll tap a brass fitting and couple it into the 3/8" line after the cooler and before the pan. This sensor turns the fan on at 180 and off at 165.


http://i.imgur.com/jp0oPxp.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Is the fan really needed? Just simply having an oil cooler is a great upgrade.

I would think the only time the cooler would need to do it's job is when you're givin'er. There should be enough air flow through the cooler when your right foot is down, no?

I'd save the extra weight and money

You are probably correct. Definitely when moving it should be ok, but I was strongly advised by folks that turboed the 1ZZ auto to have a big trans cooler. I've already ordered the sensor/thermostat and this is the kind of design thing I crave. Haha. I would have done an oil cooler but that would be a much bigger and more expensive job to do correctly. I will install an oil temp gauge and if I see issues, I'll look into the filter concersion kit, sandwich plate and cooler.

[myfirstyota]

Sorry I should have specified trans oil or fluid

[06YarisRS]

Sorry I should have specified trans oil or fluid

Haha, no worries. I wanted to address the topic of the engine oil cooler anyway.

[06YarisRS]

Some Light Bracket Fabrication

Although I didnt get much actual work done on the car today, I did have a great visit with the outfit that will be tuning my car. Unfortunately, I arrived a few minutes late to see a dyno run on a turboed BMW. Not being a big BMW guy, I don't know the model. Had a very nice chat and got a lot of questions answered and fears allayed, LOL. I did get to look at a number of turbo projects that are underway. Looking forward to "the big day".

On my way home from today's conference, I stopped by a scrapyard and bought $2.00 worth of aluminum strips/plate. It's nice and heavy but bends really well in my vice with some force.

Intercooler Upper Brackets. I filed down the edges and they look pretty good. I didn't bother to paint them.

https://i.imgur.com/k0aVxc3.jpg

Once I tighten these up, it will lift the intercooler about 1/4" which will result in the perfect placement.

https://i.imgur.com/YlSYXlu.jpg

I did manage to get one hole drilled up through the crash bar, but will have to pick up another bit as mine is toast. I tried sharpening it on the bench grinder but it was no better. That crash bar steel is capital "H" hard!

Lower Trans Cooler Bracket. This couldn't have been more simple and I didn't even have to drill a hole in the car as there was one already there that lined right up. Right now the lower part of the cooler isn't screwed to the bracket but the whole thing is extremely solid. I may just glue the cooler's lower mounting tab to the bracket with RTV. Getting in there to drill would be challenging, though I could probably do it with my angled drill attachment and pop in a couple self-tapping screws. Yeah, I'll do that.

https://i.imgur.com/mYiOgV0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zYSzFLI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/naxWIPn.jpg

I also picked up some fittings to mount my inline trans fan thermostat. This should be really simple wiring wise as no relay is needed. Just one power wire in split loom from the battery and ground at the fan. This is basically what I will piece together.

https://i.imgur.com/7nUhB4I.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Final Intercooler and Trans Cooler Mounting

Got the second hole drilled through the crash bar. I have finally come to understand what is meant by a "high speed" metal drill bit. My pathetic little cordless drill doesn't spin fast enough to cut well. I borrowed my neighbour's corded drill and it cut through fast. My corded drill bit the dust a while back. Time to pick up another one.

Final mount for intercooler. This thing is rock solid. I positioned it to maintain all of my piping clearances.

https://i.imgur.com/sheED3B.jpg

Drilled and used self-tapping screws to secure the lower part of the trans cooler to the lower bracket. Again, extremely solid.

https://i.imgur.com/ZSl11EF.jpg

Throttlebody/MAF charge pipe in final position. With the Corolla this actual pipe comes closer to the throttle body and the clamps would be closer together. I have about 2" of coupler between the end of the pipe and the throttebody. I hope this doesn't cause too much ballooning of the coupler. Worst case scenario, I put a wide clamp on the coupler about 1/2 way. Will have to consult the tuner on this one.

https://i.imgur.com/Q3DlgoM.jpg

Oil catch can... I spoke with the tuner today via IM and he says that my stock PCV system will be fine with this fairly low boost application. I told him I planned to put a breather/filter on the valve cover outlet and he said that's exactly what he would recommend. I may still pick up a catch can and install it.

[06YarisRS]

Bumper Cover Test Fit

Very happy that the cover fits on perfectly and all clearances are maintained. The intercooler is not completely centered, but that's just the way it has to be due to the passenger side piping/frame considerations.

The nice part of all this is that every cooler has great airflow over it.

https://i.imgur.com/R7Oeb4X.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Plumbing the Trans Cooler

Of course the transmission fittings were not pointing in optimal directions to plumb the cooler circuit. This necessitated some looping, so I'm glad I bought a bit of extra hose. I have very smooth curves in the hose, so no threat of kinking, plus this tubing can almost be folded over on itself and still flow.

Loose fitting the hoses and deciding on clamping points. There is a natural pathway just below the rad fan and lots of holes to place P-clips. I can easily do this with no contact with the car chassis parts at all.

Running cooler return line

https://i.imgur.com/OPpEkWU.jpg


I haven't decided whether I should put the trans fan thermostat in the line exiting the transmission or returning to the transmission. I'm leaning toward putting it in the line out of the trans as that fluid will be hotter and therefore turn the fan on sooner.

I've also calculated that the addition of the cooler and around 8' of hose will result in ~ a 0.3L increase in ATF capacity.

A couple pics from below. No clamps yet, they'll be installed last.

https://i.imgur.com/y91W5S7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JNa1Bvn.jpg

And, one from above

https://i.imgur.com/j5lXoaK.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Transmission Cooler Fan Mounted

This was a nice job with the only tricky bit being the working of the mounting straps carefully through the cooler from the back. It took some contortionist maneuvers. The fan is very secure and sits nicely in about the middle of the cooler. Just have to run a fused supply 12 or 14 gauge wire through conduit to my inline thermostat, then on to the fan.

https://i.imgur.com/3pL8gLp.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gtKmZPP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/APJOeM1.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Oil Catch Can

I picked up a Chinese knock-off of the Mishimoto 2 port can from eBay. No doubt that the materials and craftsmanship are subpar when compared to the Mishimoto, but, dang, it looks identical in every way, inside and out.

I wasn't going to do a catch can but after more reading and removing the PCV tube at the intake, I saw the ugliness. Pic below. I don't need any of that crap entering the intake for many reasons, none the least being the adverse effect it would have on my octane rating and increased threat of detonation. I'll proceed as planned with the valve cover breather and install the 2-port between the PCV valve and intake.

https://i.imgur.com/IO2jzKt.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Passenger Side Piping

This 2" pipe did not enjoy being bead rolled. Although it's a bit rough, it will seal well and hold well with the clamp. I had to cut the piece from the kit into three separate pieces and discard one piece. I'll now have to order a 2" 45 degree coupler. Good new is that it will fit well and all the other piping is done. This is the last bit of piping for the project.

My trans cooler thermostat arrived today and I'm expecting my catch can to arrive tomorrow. Time permitting, this weekend, I'll have the trans cooler all done, the catch can mounted and plumbed. The helpful guys from turbokits.com sent me a piece of 3" intercooler piping as I was short to mount my air filter. Hopefully I'll get that mounted this weekend too. Then it's time to move on to the F/IC wiring. Still a ways to go, but getting there.

Passenger side plumbing. It's solid as a rock and due to the support clamp that bolts to the A/C compressor, I have a good amount of clearance between the turbo compressor coupling and the subframe.

https://i.imgur.com/XIFyBTL.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Oil Catch Can and Air Filter Mounting

Managed to eek out a couple hours in the garage tonight. I installed my oil catch can but have yet to tie it in to the PCV system. I need two couplers and a few more clamps. I'll tidy up the ugly ends of the hoses, which I scavanged from one of the numerous old engines in our shop.

I received my short section of 3" intercooler piping from the awesome dudes at turbokits.com so I got my air filter test mounted. Next, I'll make a support bracket to secure the air filter/pipe and strap down all the various hoses etc.

https://i.imgur.com/oJ3sZTM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/U7V4bsf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/q8WytNr.jpg

I also picked up my transmission fan thermostat today. Truthfully, I don't have a lot of faith that it will last very long, but you never know. It's rated for 15 amps and my fan apparently draws 6 - 8, so it shouldn't overstress it.

https://i.imgur.com/w4BLxmV.jpg

[tmontague]

Looks good so far. Definitely cut a vent in your front bumper for the air intake, it will make a difference when you're moving for intake temps

[06YarisRS]

Looks good so far. Definitely cut a vent in your front bumper for the air intake, it will make a difference when you're moving for intake temps

Thanks! Although I would be reluctant to cut any holes in my bumper, there is a section of plastic about 3 inches wide on the right side of the radiator. After reading your suggestion, I am thinking about modifying this section to funnel air toward the filter, which is perfectly in line with it. I figured if I cut this off, I could use brackets to angle it to direct air from the upper bumper opening onto the filter. The area below the filter is wide open and quite airy toward the bottom of the engine bay, so I think the intake air shouldn't be too hot. That said, it is partially behind the rad. I have a fair bit of adjustment with the filter as it is, so I could actually point in down and closer to the bottom of the engine bay, but not too far as to pic up road debris or water from the wheels.

[06YarisRS]

A little plumbing this afternoon

So, the eBay seller said that the barb fittings for the inline transmission fan thermostat were 3/8". Well, they're 1/2". It was completely impossible to get the 3/8 hose onto the 1/2" barb despite lubing the fitting and hose, boiling the hose end in hot water etc. I bought a foot of 1/2" hose, two 1/2" x 3/8" reducing couplers and a few clamps. Done. I was initially worried about restriction when downsizing from 1/2" to 3/8", until I cut the PCV hose to run to the catch can and was surprised to see that it reduced down to 5/16" or even smaller. It's really a tiny hole, not much wider than a small drinking straw, running through that hose. If anything, the 3/8" piping and fittings I have in there now will provide better flow when in vacuum. I'm guessing they use such a thick wall to avoid the hose collapsing under vacuum. The hose I bought is good for 24" of vacuum and I will also have the valve cover breather that should help vent the block.

I also decided to swap out the plastic 1/2" outlet and inlet on the catch can for aluminum 3/8" barbs. This will make for a much cleaner looking and efficient install. The catch can came with a gate valve drain which is a nice touch. I'll run a foot or 18" of hose down toward the bottom of the engine bay for easy draining.

The coupling and 3/8" barbed fittings just in front of the catch can is the beginnings of my trans temp gauge inline fitting. I'll buy a gauge with a 1/8" npt sensor and drill and tap the brass coupling. I purposefully bought one with the thickest wall I could find for the best threading (tapping) result.

https://i.imgur.com/yQ9rPiG.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Catch can done, finally!

This turned out to be more involved than I had expected. The pipe that goes from the PCV valve under the manifold - thanks Toyota - is basically a "U" shape that loops around back to the manifold. So, when you cut it to splice into it, it's very difficult to get the fittings on, expecially since the interior diameter of this piping is so narrow and you have so little length to work with. I simply could not get enough leverage to seat the fitting because the piping is tucked up under the throttlebody. So, that had to come off (I would have taken the manifold off, but I expect it would be a struggle given the close proximity to the rad in this smaller engine bay). It did give me a chance to inspect the throttlebody surfaces and gasket, which fortunately, though a little dirty, were in good shape. The other challenge is getting the piping in in a way that ensures that it won't chafe on other piping, clamps or on body and engine parts when the engine moves around. Anyway, it's done now.

Getting can ready for final install

https://i.imgur.com/cXaLYBx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YxVmHcA.jpg

Throttlebody removal

https://i.imgur.com/35MvcPv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cek2hLW.jpg

Finished, with zip ties to keep everything secure. They're white which I hate, but it's all I had on hand, so they'll be replaced with black ones. Also going to look for side by side double hose retainers, so I may get rid of the zip ties all together.

https://i.imgur.com/BEOBSx6.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Trans thermostat and plumbing done

The circuit is now complete. Looking forward to starting the car - will be a while yet though - and checking for leaks. I just have two mounting points using the rubberized "P" clips left for the hoses which requires pre-drilling and using self tapping screws - the metal is a touch too thick to self tap. There was one spot there the inlet and outlet hoses are touching, so I cut a short section of pipe, wrapped one of them and ziptied the rubber hose piece on. Everywhere else there is no contact and room for movement.

The sensor is installed on the outlet of the factory in-rad cooler running to the inlet of the aftermarket cooler. If anything, this should keep the fluid cooler than putting the sensor after the aftermarket cooler.

https://i.imgur.com/VPbUIZ9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AbsTeLk.jpg

I'm going to wrap the sensor with some of the fiberglass reflective tape provided with the turbo kit. The sensor is about an inch away from the lower rad hose, which probably wouldn't be an issue, but I'll play it safe.

https://i.imgur.com/iI6ZfHS.jpg

[tmontague]

Trans thermostat and plumbing done
The sensor is installed on the outlet of the factory in-rad cooler running to the inlet of the aftermarket cooler. If anything, this should keep the fluid cooler than putting the sensor after the aftermarket cooler.


Do you by any chance know what the factory optimal trans temp is? The reason I ask is because with the thermostat installed before the aftermarket cooler is potentially could be keeping the fan on constantly if your thermostat is a low temp set point than what the factory rad cooler typically keeps it at.

It might be a wash either way but I just figured less time the fan is running, less electrical load and stress to the fan.

[06YarisRS]

Not sure of the optimal spec but testing procedures are something like the 124 - 178 range. I thought about it a lot and Derale recommends putting the thermostat where I did - before the aftermarket cooler. If the fan runs too much, I'll swap it to the other line. Since the rad likely hovers around 180+, it may well make the fan run too much. I believe the thermostat kicks in at 180 and out at 165, but I'm not sure if the in-rad cooler would bring the fluid up to 180 or not. I guess only time will tell.

Not sure what you mean that it might be a wash. Do you mean that you think it might not be effective at all? The way I look at it, any additional cooling has got to help.

Thanks.

[tmontague]

Not sure of the optimal spec but testing procedures are something like the 124 - 178 range. I thought about it a lot and Derale recommends putting the thermostat where I did - before the aftermarket cooler. If the fan runs too much, I'll swap it to the other line. Since the rad likely hovers around 180+, it may well make the fan run too much. I believe the thermostat kicks in at 180 and out at 165, but I'm not sure if the in-rad cooler would bring the fluid up to 180 or not. I guess only time will tell.

Not sure what you mean that it might be a wash. Do you mean that you think it might not be effective at all? The way I look at it, any additional cooling has got to help.

Thanks.

I was referring to having the thermostat placed downstream vs upstream may be a wash. No doubt an additional cooler will help.

I'm just thinking that the outflow of trans fluid from the rad will almost never be below 165 (in the middle of summer) and the fan will be constantly running. But that is just my speculation based off of what coolant temps in the middle of summer.

That said, this is new territory for me so what others recommend who have been down that road would be best practice

[06YarisRS]

I was referring to having the thermostat placed downstream vs upstream may be a wash. No doubt an additional cooler will help.

I'm just thinking that the outflow of trans fluid from the rad will almost never be below 165 (in the middle of summer) and the fan will be constantly running. But that is just my speculation based off of what coolant temps in the middle of summer.

That said, this is new territory for me so what others recommend who have been down that road would be best practice

Indeed, it will be an experiment. Below is a pic of my Torque Pro in my van and trans temps are always below oil and coolant. This was after about 45 minutes driving and just before the pic, I had been driving around town. I also found this in a couple previous vehicles I owned in which I had installed trans temp gauges. I don't know if the Yaris is the same. I am hoping that the fluid in the Yaris doesn't run near or over 165 regularly with the additional cooler. If I do find that the fan is running too much, I will move it to the line after the aftermarket cooler. I'm likely going to install a temp gauge as well, so that will help to assess the situation. But, for sure, if the fan runs constantly, then that's no good.

https://i.imgur.com/6FusjDV.jpg

[tmontague]

hmm, I guess the factory cooler does a better job than I assumed it would. It will be interesting to see what you notice once you have it all running in regards to temps

[06YarisRS]

hmm, I guess the factory cooler does a better job than I assumed it would. It will be interesting to see what you notice once you have it all running in regards to temps

Yes, it would seem it does a good job of cooling the fluid. It would be great if the fan wasn't needed at all, but I expect it will be, especially in bumper to bumper traffic in summer or when I load it beyond factory specs. I've seen my van's aft reach close to 200 creeping along the 401 in summertime. Driving around town with lots of stops and starts, in the heat of summer, will put it in the 170 - 180 range generally.

[06YarisRS]

Passenger side plumbing finally done

I had to order two different silicone couplers and modify the piece of piping that came with the kit. Although it looks tight, it's not touching anywhere. 90% of any flexing will be on the section of coupler that connects the portion of the charge pipe that's bolted to the engine and the intercooler coupler. There is also a coupler that joins the engine charge pipes that is quite flexible too despite being bolted to the A/C compressor. I rocked the engine back and forth (torque/rear engine mount is still not tightened down) and there is no movement or contact of couplers or piping on any chassis parts. Again, flexing is confined to the couplers that basically join the chassis and engine mounted charge piping parts.

https://i.imgur.com/R1eYwcb.jpg

My ATF cooler outlet hose is slightly touching the intercooler coupler, not even enough to deform the circumference of the hose. However, I have discovered that I can pick up a transmission return line from a 1992 - 1997 Jeep Wrangler or Grand Cherokee (or Dorman P/N# 624-384) that will work in this application. It's a very short, 3/8" elbow that should redirect the piping immediately after leaving the cooler so that it doesn't make contact with the intercooler coupler. A local scrapyard has a few of these vehicles and they told me I was welcome to go into the yard and help myself, if I can find one.

https://i.imgur.com/08YzF8m.jpg

Final result. I did have to use one traditional hose clamp as opposed to a "T" clamp on the curved section of pipe. I did this because I needed a narrower clamp as I had to cut the pipe close to the curve. I did get a great bead roll on it and the clamp cranked down nicely on the right side of the bead roll. Would I want to put 35 psi through this piping? Probably not, but it will easily handle the 7 - 8 psi I'll be feeding it.

https://i.imgur.com/muYIUz1.jpg

All of the piping is done with the exception of securing the 3" intake piping to the back of the valve cover. That will be done tomorrow hopefully. Then, the vacuum hosing and trans fan wiring will be completed. I'll be into the F/IC wiring by mid next week if things go as planned.

[tmontague]

looks good and seems you have it all well sorted in terms of potential hose leaks due to abrasion.

I'm looking forward to the F/I/C wiring and your thoughts on that as well as the tuners thoughts on it. Good work!

[06YarisRS]

looks good and seems you have it all well sorted in terms of potential hose leaks due to abrasion.

I'm looking forward to the F/I/C wiring and your thoughts on that as well as the tuners thoughts on it. Good work!

Thanks. Yeah, there are a lot of potential leak points in a project of this nature: coolant, oil, water etc. Fingers are crossed, lol.

I too am eagerly anticipating the F/IC wiring outcome.

[06YarisRS]

Started the trans fan wiring

I only had about a half hour to work on the car tonight, but I got the wiring test routed and measured. I'm going to run two extra wires through the conduit; one for a future trans temp gauge and an oil temp gauge sensors. I've already talked about the trans temp hook up plans, but the oil gauge will be pan via the drain plug. I found a nifty 12M x 1.25 to 1.8" NPT fitting that comes with a copper crush washer. I just remove the oil plug, put the sensor in the fitting and screw it in like a normal drain pan bolt. Although the pan is probably not the best spot to monitor, this is without a doubt the simplest route. The oil from the turbo return line comes out close to where the sensor sits, so the reading may be close to indicative of one of the hottest parts of the lubrication system. I may not do these two gauges right away, but I've got all the fittings for both and will have the necessary wires in position when the time comes.

A little preliminary wiring. I'm using 14 gauge stranded automotive primary wire. It's very heavy, solid wire and my run will only be about 3' long and fan amp draw is around 8 amps, so well within safety margins. I remove the plastic terminal protectors, crimp, solder and heat shrink terminal ends and braid, solder and heat shrink all inline connections. I used good quality heat shrink; the kind that oozes out a nice gooey, glue-like substance that really seals well. All wires will run through loom and be completely taped. No moisture getting in here, lol. The loom will be ziptied to the chassis along the way.

https://i.imgur.com/jdJw8NT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9m9tv5p.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SCXz77J.jpg

[myfirstyota]

Started the trans fan wiring

I only had about a half hour to work on the car tonight, but I got the wiring test routed and measured. I'm going to run two extra wires through the conduit; one for a future trans temp gauge and an oil temp gauge sensors. I've already talked about the trans temp hook up plans, but the oil gauge will be pan via the drain plug. I found a nifty 12M x 1.25 to 1.8" NPT fitting that comes with a copper crush washer. I just remove the oil plug, put the sensor in the fitting and screw it in like a normal drain pan bolt. Although the pan is probably not the best spot to monitor, this is without a doubt the simplest route. The oil from the turbo return line comes out close to where the sensor sits, so the reading may be close to indicative of one of the hottest parts of the lubrication system. I may not do these two gauges right away, but I've got all the fittings for both and will have the necessary wires in position when the time comes.

A little preliminary wiring. I'm using 14 gauge stranded automotive primary wire. It's very heavy, solid wire and my run will only be about 3' long and fan amp draw is around 8 amps, so well within safety margins. I remove the plastic terminal protectors, crimp, solder and heat shrink terminal ends and braid, solder and heat shrink all inline connections. I used good quality heat shrink; the kind that oozes out a nice gooey, glue-like substance that really seals well. All wires will run through loom and be completely taped. No moisture getting in here, lol. The loom will be ziptied to the chassis along the way.

https://i.imgur.com/jdJw8NT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9m9tv5p.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SCXz77J.jpg

I've made the mistake of trusting the plastic insulators on crimp connectors. Long story short I almost burned my car down. Solder and shrink wrap is the way to go.

[06YarisRS]

I've made the mistake of trusting the plastic insulators on crimp connectors. Long story short I almost burned my car down. Solder and shrink wrap is the way to go.

Absolutely! They're little water traps too.

Edit: Haha, I see I actually left one of the insulators on my ground. Will have to redo that connection. This circuit will likely max out around 8 amps, so maybe I'll pack it with something to keep the water out.

[06YarisRS]

A little wiring for the trans fan

I decided to go with a relay since I had one gathering dust on my shelf. Here's a drawing of my wiring schematic.

https://i.imgur.com/WpDtPNP.png

And a little more soldering/heat shrinking for the relay ground. I got this attached but no pic.

https://i.imgur.com/D9XAOon.jpg

Relay mounted. Terminals will also get the soldering and heat shrink. I've got some really big heat shrink, so I'll likely cinch up the split loom that all comes together there.

https://i.imgur.com/f52mgAL.jpg

[myfirstyota]

A little wiring for the trans fan

I decided to go with a relay since I had one gathering dust on my shelf. Here's a drawing of my wiring schematic.

https://i.imgur.com/WpDtPNP.png

And a little more soldering/heat shrinking for the relay ground. I got this attached but no pic.

https://i.imgur.com/D9XAOon.jpg

Relay mounted. Terminals will also get the soldering and heat shrink. I've got some really big heat shrink, so I'll likely cinch up the split loom that all comes together there.

https://i.imgur.com/f52mgAL.jpg

One thing I've noticed is these cheap relays (not sure if yours is) don't fair well in the open elements (or the engine bay). I've had a few relay failures that were mounted in the engine bay. I'd look into a waterproof one or slather the bottom of the relay (along the seams) in grease to keep moisture out. Food for thought.

[06YarisRS]

One thing I've noticed is these cheap relays (not sure if yours is) don't fair well in the open elements (or the engine bay). I've had a few relay failures that were mounted in the engine bay. I'd look into a waterproof one or slather the bottom of the relay (along the seams) in grease to keep moisture out. Food for thought.

Yes! I was looking it over and it doesn't look waterproof. I did wonder about that. I actually thought about coating the bottom in RTV sealant as it's rated for several hundred degrees. I may just pick up a waterproof one as per your suggestion. It would be a simple, couple minute job to remove this one and install a waterproof one.

[tmontague]

solid electrical work, looking good.

I personally always have used the plastic insulated terminal and only crimp (properly) and then always cover in heat shrink even if it it internal. I have never had an electrical issue due to one of my connections. The key think I think it heat shrinking it so no moisture can get in. I would never just crimp and leave as is. I have used the crazy uber expensive glue like heat shrink from CT and as much as I like it, I find that my large case of various size heat shrink I bought off ebay does a good enough job at completely sealing even though it doesn't ooze out glue. IIRC its the stuff that shrinks down 3+ times its size that has the glue. The cheaper 2:1 shrinking stuff doesn't ooze out as much nor does it become rock hard once shrunk.

Also to add to the discussion, that relay looks like the one I have currently for my dual horn set up. I have mine installed just like yours but on the other side of my engine bay and all I have done it put dielectric grease on the terminals for ease of removing them if needed. In 3 or so years my relay hasn't had an issue. It doesn't get exposed to extreme heat where it is located and it not upside down so no water can pool in it. However, a waterproof relay would be ideal.

I did have an electrical failure last year on my horns and somehow one of the smaller gauge wire had an internal failure and wouldn't send power signal to the horns from the relay. That wire sits right in front of my grill and it exposed to everything bad. I also don't think I put heat shrink on the ring terminal end at the horns. Likely water got in that way and corroded the wire. Oddly enough my multi meter would show continuity through that wire but yet it wouldn't sent power through it...

[06YarisRS]

solid electrical work, looking good.

I personally always have used the plastic insulated terminal and only crimp (properly) and then always cover in heat shrink even if it it internal. I have never had an electrical issue due to one of my connections. The key think I think it heat shrinking it so no moisture can get in. I would never just crimp and leave as is. I have used the crazy uber expensive glue like heat shrink from CT and as much as I like it, I find that my large case of various size heat shrink I bought off ebay does a good enough job at completely sealing even though it doesn't ooze out glue. IIRC its the stuff that shrinks down 3+ times its size that has the glue. The cheaper 2:1 shrinking stuff doesn't ooze out as much nor does it become rock hard once shrunk.

Also to add to the discussion, that relay looks like the one I have currently for my dual horn set up. I have mine installed just like yours but on the other side of my engine bay and all I have done it put dielectric grease on the terminals for ease of removing them if needed. In 3 or so years my relay hasn't had an issue. It doesn't get exposed to extreme heat where it is located and it not upside down so no water can pool in it. However, a waterproof relay would be ideal.

I did have an electrical failure last year on my horns and somehow one of the smaller gauge wire had an internal failure and wouldn't send power signal to the horns from the relay. That wire sits right in front of my grill and it exposed to everything bad. I also don't think I put heat shrink on the ring terminal end at the horns. Likely water got in that way and corroded the wire. Oddly enough my multi meter would show continuity through that wire but yet it wouldn't sent power through it...

Thanks. I called all around and no one was aware of a "waterproof" relay. I was told by all of them that water shouldn't get in, especially if it's in an area doesn't get spray. I was also advised by at least two places to do as you did and use dielectric grease. They said that unless I submerge the relay in water, it should be fine. That said, eBay has many that have a rubber coupler that seals the pins. At least if I have trouble, I'll know where to get one.

[06YarisRS]

Trans Fan Wiring installation started

With a bit of available time tonight I got from the battery to the relay power supply run. It's fused with a 20 amp fuse. It will be tidied up and secured behind the battery, high up so the fuse is accessible.

https://i.imgur.com/0wxvUva.jpg

It runs behind the battery and down behind the fuse box. A switched wire from the fuse box joins the leg here

https://i.imgur.com/QWAQRAg.jpg

Then, on to the relay. Terminals aren't seated yet, but will be after all wiring/loom is secured. You can see the next leg to the right in the pic. It's just draped over the engine for now.

https://i.imgur.com/vrQOdig.jpg

The blue wire runs from the sensor back to the relay. The pink/white wire is the switched 12V and runs to the other sensor pin. Finally the black 14 GA wire goes from the relay to the fan +

https://i.imgur.com/HqgChoK.jpg

I have a good route with lots of attach points; well away from any heat sources and would be chaffing areas.

https://i.imgur.com/PjpVZH0.jpg

Sensor wires ready to go into loom heading toward bottom of engine bay. Fan positive is done.

https://i.imgur.com/LE8vwUP.jpg

Loom traveling across above radiator. Not secured with zip ties yet.

https://i.imgur.com/KFhCI40.jpg

Final leg of harness going down to sensor.

https://i.imgur.com/F524FEw.jpg



Here's a couple for fun. Picked up my valve cover breather. I peeked inside with my borescope to see how well built the filter is.

https://i.imgur.com/PrPteEJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kgT0CoG.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Valve Cover Breather Install and Engine Cover Test Fit

The breather I bought will accept either a 3/8" or 1/2" barb. The valve cover hose is about 5/8" ID. I was having difficulty finding a fitting that would reduce down until I remembered the Sharkbite Pex fittings. I picked up a 3/4" x 1/2" Pex reducer coupling and it couldn't have worked better. It's nice and tight, only requiring moderate pressue to insert into the breather and the breather hose. I just need to ziptie the hose to the block as it flops around a bit now.

https://i.imgur.com/8pijP9v.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/g07Dfja.jpg


Engine cover test fit. Very happy that nothing interferes with the cover. It fits as though there were no mods done to the car at all. In the interest of tidying up the engine bay, I'm going to hunt for some large split loom for those red amplifier wires. I think it will look a lot better.

https://i.imgur.com/9ju6dNt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OxxrVBl.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/JP7yZld.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Frame Painting Touchups

I've been doing this all throughout the project. I figured while I had all the plastic shrouds off, I'd touch up the frame here and there. These had the occasional spots of surface rust, mainly where the plastic shrouds abrade the paint. I degreased, sanded, degreased and gave several coats of ceramic VHT paint, drying the layers with my heat gun. This stuff is really durable. Once it's cured in a few days, I'll blast it all with Fluid Film and spray the frame insides again with Rust Check red.

https://i.imgur.com/PoWpeiL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/sH4IUnr.jpg

[CrankyOldMan]

Awesome work!

I'm regretting not doing something similar with the paint on mine when I did the 2ZR swap. I pulled the bumpers off this weekend to make the clutch replacement easier and it's a mess where the parts didn't get painted during the original factory dip. Any suggestions for fixing moderate surface rust in that area?

[06YarisRS]

Hey Sam. Can you snap a few pics of what you're talking about? I don't imagine it's something a coarse wire wheel, some phosphoric acid (rust converter), primer and paint couldn't take care of.

[tmontague]

Frame Painting Touchups

I've been doing this all throughout the project. I figured while I had all the plastic shrouds off, I'd touch up the frame here and there. These had the occasional spots of surface rust, mainly where the plastic shrouds abrade the paint. I degreased, sanded, degreased and gave several coats of ceramic VHT paint, drying the layers with my heat gun. This stuff is really durable. Once it's cured in a few days, I'll blast it all with Fluid Film and spray the frame insides again with Rust Check red.

https://i.imgur.com/PoWpeiL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/sH4IUnr.jpg

looks clean.

That breather hose that normally see's vacuum and now is vented to atmosphere do you foresee any issues with that? I've read varying things online about removing the vacuum from breather hoses potentially causing problems in a system designed for vacuum.

That said I would think you should be perfectly fine seeing as that hose is upstream of the TB and therefore doesn't actually see much vacuum at all. It would see minimal vacuum at idle and during WOT there is little vacuum anyways

[06YarisRS]

looks clean.

That breather hose that normally see's vacuum and now is vented to atmosphere do you foresee any issues with that? I've read varying things online about removing the vacuum from breather hoses potentially causing problems in a system designed for vacuum.

That said I would think you should be perfectly fine seeing as that hose is upstream of the TB and therefore doesn't actually see much vacuum at all. It would see minimal vacuum at idle and during WOT there is little vacuum anyways

I wondered about the vacuum too, but am following the advice of the turbokits guys. Since the charge pipe that attaches to the throttlebody doesn't have an inlet, there's no place to reintroduce the unburned gasses. I thought about installing a second catch can and plumbing it back into the pipe just before the throttlebody (like the OEM setup), but then I'd run into problems when boost is present. It would probably require a check valve to keep boost from going back into the engine via the valve cover. I know what vacuum leaks can do and I wouldn't be very happy if my idles is erratic, or high due to a vacuum leak. I hope it works as it's supposed to and the other guy I've been talking to at toyotanation has the same setup and apparently hasn't experienced any issues.

The other thing I had wondered about is the brake booster under boost. I guess there is a check valve in that system that will prevent boost going back to the brake booster.

[06YarisRS]

Vacuum Lines

Started installing the vacuum lines. For my setup I only need to supply vacuum to two locations: the blowoff valve and the AEM F/IC. I already installed the wastegate actuator to wastegate boost hose. I am way short on hose since I'm going to install the F/IC inside the car behind the glovebox. I'll need about a 3 foot piece of vacuum hose to complete this job. All connections will be ziptied or possibly clamped.

First Tee tapped into the vacuum supply from the manifold. I may source some brass tees for the vacuum taps as these plastic ones seem a little flimsy.

https://i.imgur.com/jhBIKJ9.jpg

BOV vacuum hose. The wires in the center of the pic will be moved and secured. They are just hanging there now.

https://i.imgur.com/Azjbln9.jpg?1

Decided to touch up the wiper tray support. It was fairly rust free, but a few minutes time invested made for good results. It too will be saturated with Fluid Film before the wiper tray is reattached.

https://i.imgur.com/0BGa1rq.jpg

I ordered another -4AN oil supply feed line tonight. The one that came with the kit is about 40" long and would be very difficult to install in my car without coiling it up and risking it scraping on body or engine parts. The one I bought is 24" and should fit perfectly as I did measurements with the 40" hose and marked it to the appropriate length with electrical tape.

https://i.imgur.com/kKPHEfI.jpg

[06YarisRS]

F/IC Wiring

I started looking at diagrams again tonight in anticipation of wiring the F/IC. Tonight's search was for a switched power source at the ECU for the F/IC power supply. Pin 28 on A21 did indeed prove to be a reliable source. I tested it and it is indeed a switched 12V source. So, that's good. I will find the signal grounds tomorrow. Since this configuration of a 2008 xD ECU, 2011 harness and 2ZR engine is unfamiliar to the turbokits guys and AEM, it will be an experiment for sure.

I had a bit of a scare. I wanted to test my trans fan and relay by crossing the terminals on the trans thermostat sensor. It seemed that my EFI fuse socket (the one that powers the MAF - thanks Trevor for that one - and now also the power supply for the transmission temp thermostat) had lost power. I tested it numerous times and started to get a little depressed. I went back inside and started pouring over the wiring diagrams hoping to find another fuse somewhere that, if blown, would cut the power supply. It turns out that because I still had the right ECU connector (A21) disconnected, the circuit was incomplete. I plugged it back in and voila, power was restored. MAF has switched power and the relay for the fan works great too.

Here is what had me freaked out before I discovered what was wrong.

https://i.imgur.com/jHMcF03.jpg?1

[tmontague]

F/IC Wiring

I started looking at diagrams again tonight in anticipation of wiring the F/IC. Tonight's search was for a switched power source at the ECU for the F/IC power supply. Pin 28 on A21 did indeed prove to be a reliable source. I tested it and it is indeed a switched 12V source. So, that's good. I will find the signal grounds tomorrow. Since this configuration of a 2008 xD ECU, 2011 harness and 2ZR engine is unfamiliar to the turbokits guys and AEM, it will be an experiment for sure.

I had a bit of a scare. I wanted to test my trans fan and relay by crossing the terminals on the trans thermostat sensor. It seemed that my EFI fuse socket (the one that powers the MAF - thanks Trevor for that one - and now also the power supply for the transmission temp thermostat) had lost power. I tested it numerous times and started to get a little depressed. I went back inside and started pouring over the wiring diagrams hoping to find another fuse somewhere that, if blown, would cut the power supply. It turns out that because I still had the right ECU connector (A21) disconnected, the circuit was incomplete. I plugged it back in and voila, power was restored. MAF has switched power and the relay for the fan works great too.

Here is what had me freaked out before I discovered what was wrong.

https://i.imgur.com/jHMcF03.jpg?1

Glad to hear you found the source of your electrical scare. I've had a few issues like that in the past where it ended up being a simple thing and for a couple hours the panic sets in. Keep the posts coming!

[06YarisRS]

Glad to hear you found the source of your electrical scare. I've had a few issues like that in the past where it ended up being a simple thing and for a couple hours the panic sets in. Keep the posts coming!

Haha, yeah, it had me going for a bit. One thing about doing a build and documenting it, is that you know everything that you've done, so the proposition of fixing something doesn't seem as daunting as if you simply adopted a vehicle with so many mods. Still, though, no doubt I'll be scratching my head when it comes to start-up day and it doesn't start. LOL.

[06YarisRS]

Gauges

I am still deciding what I'm going to do for gauges. As mentioned, I can see a host of valuable turbo-related data through Torque Pro (such as boost, AFR, intake temps, timing etc), but in order for me to monitor oil and trans temps, I'll need aftermarket gauges since I haven't been able to confirm if Techstream can provide that live data. I have a couple of fittings that I may use for my possible gauges. The large one splices into my trans cooler return line and the smaller one is an oil drain plug with a 1/8" NPT thread, but because it narrows I'll be restricted in what sensor I use. It looks like I may have to go with Glowshift as they have a narrower sensor probe.

Here are the potential sensor ports.

https://i.imgur.com/PjQUR4D.jpg

And, here is the gauge I'm thinking of for my oil and trans temps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GlowShift-10-Color-Digital-Dual-Water-Oil-Transmission-Temp-Gauge-GS-TCD-DT/292521363623

https://i.imgur.com/mrufbJ5.jpg


OR

This...

https://i.imgur.com/9qbXe4K.jpg

This...

https://i.imgur.com/tnUdu8z.jpg

And this...

https://i.imgur.com/E8CRA9P.jpg

I didn't get to any additional wiring today, but I did replace a few inches of my trans cooler out line with a 90 degree piece of trans hose that I got from a 2005 Jeep Wrangler. The cooler hose was rubbing on the passenger side intercooler intake coupling. Once I installed the 90, it allowed me to raise the intercooler coupler a bit giving me more clearance between the front rad support sub frame, which was a real bonus. If you look closely, you can see the little rubber elbow down in behind the intercooler intake coupler on the passenger side. Oh, and I sanded and painted my horn. It was quite rusty and ugly.

https://i.imgur.com/xDdbzMr.jpg



I still need to install the injectors and may use that as an excuse tomorrow to avoid tackling the F/IC wiring. I'll try to source a nice large firewall plug - one big enough to handle the F/IC harness, vacuum line and all my gauge wires. Then I'll need to source an appropriately sized hole saw.

I should receive my new 24" oil supply line in a day or two. The one that came with kit is about 40" long - way too long to effectively deal with in this tiny engine bay. Here is the -4AN fitting, capped and awaiting its supply line. The 24" line should be perfect with a nice gradual loop from the top of the turbo to the supply port. If I measured correctly, I won't even need to fasten the line anywhere between the turbo and supply port to prevent contact with anything on the engine or body.

https://i.imgur.com/jCWnZUU.jpg

[tmontague]

Just a heads up on the glowshift gauges - I found them to be +/- 10psi/degrees in accuracy and always had electrical issues with them as they were finicky


I know the price is really tempting but in what it cost in time to try and splice their tiny gauge wires and constantly try and fix electrical issues, I would just recommend going with an AEM series gauge from the get go.

AEM gauges are far from the most expensive and they aren't the most cheapest but their harness is all plug and play with easy to remove connectors, all you have to do is splice in a ground and ignition sources power. I have found them to be +/-2 psi/degrees and have zero electrical issues since my install.

Just something to keep in mind but glowshift definitely showed their price

[06YarisRS]

Just a heads up on the glowshift gauges - I found them to be +/- 10psi/degrees in accuracy and always had electrical issues with them as they were finicky


I know the price is really tempting but in what it cost in time to try and splice their tiny gauge wires and constantly try and fix electrical issues, I would just recommend going with an AEM series gauge from the get go.

AEM gauges are far from the most expensive and they aren't the most cheapest but their harness is all plug and play with easy to remove connectors, all you have to do is splice in a ground and ignition sources power. I have found them to be +/-2 psi/degrees and have zero electrical issues since my install.

Just something to keep in mind but glowshift definitely showed their price

Thanks indeed for the input. You are right, the price is attractive, but if they are buggy, then they probably aren't what I'm looking for. That said, I just had a look and I'd be looking at $600.00+ for the few gauges I'd need. Can't see getting that past the finance committee after the $$$ I've spent already lol. I really wish that Torque could access the data I'm looking for from the ECU. I can see virtually everything in my Kia van.

Other than the inaccuracy, can you tell me a bit about the electrical problems? Is it largely bad connectors/hardware/wiring? I ran a bunch of those cheapy Chinese gauges in my old Dodge van and and the temp ones worked fine and lasted a long time - I sold the van and they were still working after a couple of years. The oil pressure ones would work for a few months and then the sender would ultimately fail. The accuracy on the temp gauges wasn't great either, but I did test them in a pot of boiling water with a digital thermometer and they were in the order of +/- 5 degrees off. I could live with that, but the again, they were like $18.00 - $20.00 each. If the Glowshift gauges are that bad, then I wouldn't be up for paying what is 3 - 4 times the price for about the same quality of product.

More thought... I'm going to be running full synthetic oil, so do I really need to know oil temps? I know that oil doesn't hang in the same temp range as water, but is it likely to get way, way above water temps? Like, in the order of 50+F degrees? With regard to oil pressure, one guy said all a gauge will do is let you watch the destruction of your turbo in realtime as by the time you lose pressure, the turbo is toast. He said that oil temp would be more valuable as it is a variable that you could control - aka, cooler. I will already have AFR, boost, water temp, intake temp etc through Torque. If I did decide to go with better gauges and had to buy them over time, which would you recommend going with first?

Thanks again,

[tmontague]

Thanks indeed for the input. You are right, the price is attractive, but if they are buggy, then they probably aren't what I'm looking for. That said, I just had a look and I'd be looking at $600.00+ for the few gauges I'd need. Can't see getting that past the finance committee after the $$$ I've spent already lol. I really wish that Torque could access the data I'm looking for from the ECU. I can see virtually everything in my Kia van.

Other than the inaccuracy, can you tell me a bit about the electrical problems? Is it largely bad connectors/hardware/wiring? I ran a bunch of those cheapy Chinese gauges in my old Dodge van and and the temp ones worked fine and lasted a long time - I sold the van and they were still working after a couple of years. The oil pressure ones would work for a few months and then the sender would ultimately fail. The accuracy on the temp gauges wasn't great either, but I did test them in a pot of boiling water with a digital thermometer and they were in the order of +/- 5 degrees off. I could live with that, but the again, they were like $18.00 - $20.00 each. If the Glowshift gauges are that bad, then I wouldn't be up for paying what is 3 - 4 times the price for about the same quality of product.

More thought... I'm going to be running full synthetic oil, so do I really need to know oil temps? I know that oil doesn't hang in the same temp range as water, but is it likely to get way, way above water temps? Like, in the order of 50+F degrees? With regard to oil pressure, one guy said all a gauge will do is let you watch the destruction of your turbo in realtime as by the time you lose pressure, the turbo is toast. He said that oil temp would be more valuable as it is a variable that you could control - aka, cooler. I will already have AFR, boost, water temp, intake temp etc through Torque. If I did decide to go with better gauges and had to buy them over time, which would you recommend going with first?

Thanks again,

I definitely understand the situation regarding finances, it was one of the reasons I went with Glowshift in the first place. In hindsight waiting a few month to purchase AEM gauges would have been the best bet in my situation.

So the main issues with the GS gauges was the extremely small gauge wiring they come with. You have to run your own wires from the sender/sensor to the super tiny wires behind the gauge. You cannot find wires or connectors that small from typical go to stores. I had to double back the small gauge wire to make it crimpable. The gauge needle would randomly start to move 40psi lower or higher at random times. Then sometimes if I tapped the gauge it would do it again. I figured it must be a loose crimp so I rewired and triple checked all my connections to no avail as the issue persisted.

Instead of only having to connect a ground and a hot, you have 3 extra wires that although optional, they run the auto dimming feature and they keep the memory for what color you last chose. These always never held the color properly and would typically default to blue on 2 of the 3 gauges I had. Think of how messy the wiring was, 5 wires behind every gauge each with their own connectors, it was a mess.

AEM conveniently supplies a wire loom with proper connectors to attach the sensor to the back of the gauge. This makes them easy to disconnect when ever you need to or if you need to replace a sensor. All you have to do is splice in a hot and a ground on 2 of the wires from the loom. I have to extend a few wires to make it reach where I wanted the gauges to go, but the wire gauge is not super small so it was easy to work with and IIRC it matched the smallest gauge you can find at CT (21gauge I think?) AEM gauges have an auto sensor that dims the back light based on ambient light in the car. Much simple, cleaner and no gauge sweeping issues or weird electrical problems. Oh, and GS gauges have a little plastic button to change the back light color. Thus button is very loose and rattles consistently since day 1. All of the gauges were like that, it wasn't a one off.

Truth is a proper full syn oil can easily handle upwards of 300*F, most engineers will tell you 450-500F is its limit. Based on my 13k km UOA of 5w30 Pennzoil UP that regularily saw 295F it never degraded the oil to where it lost it's lubricity or viscocity. The whole belief that 260F is an oils upper limit and anything after that needs a cooler is outdated and obsolete with modern full syn oils.

Where temp matter is when it reduces yourt operating pressure below spec. For the 2zr according to Toyota it is 22-58 psi at 3k rpm and anything greater than 3 psi at idle.


Now to fix that you can either run a cooler or simply up a viscocity to maintain pressure, but then you would be running too high a viscocity when not on track. This is why a cooler is ideal for a car that is track driven and a DD'er only if the track pushes it out of its oil pressure specs. I actually strongly disagree with the guy that told you oil temp is more valuable than pressure and here is why:

If your engine has catastrophic failure and you loose oil at an alarming rate, neither a temp or pressure gauge will help you - well maybe a pressure gauge would, but you would have to have it set to an alarm or constantly be monitoring it every couple seconds. Oil temp only tells you the temp of the oil, not what actually matters. You will absolutely never get the oil too hot for a full syn's capability, even if you tracked the crap out of your car. You potentially could push the car/oil outside of the pressure specs if you tracked the crap of of your car.

Notice in the above, the dependant variable is pressure and it is dependant on temp. But only knowing the temp tells you nothing of the pressure. But by knowing pressure you know what is important regardless of the temp. Pressure if a product of temp. If you are going to get 1 gauge, let it be oil pressure. This will guide you in what oil viscosity you need to run (spoiler alert, I can almost guarantee you that 0w20 will be perfectly fine)

Here is why I doubt you will have an oil temp issue. Oil typically runs equal to, or 10 degrees F above coolant temp in 75F temps. Add 10F in peak summer months and subtract 10F in colder months. This is in city driving for a long time or highway cruising, even at 130 km/h. Where oil temps will slightly go up under these conditions is when you climb a long skyway bridge - or better put, any increase engine load. This is why 10 mins in to a 40 min lapping session at the track, my oil temps started to climb. Coolant would peak at 230F and oil would creep up to 285F and hand out there for the rest of the session (this was on stock cooling)

This was only seen during WOT and constantly at high rpm's. To put it in perspective I would go through 3/4 of a tank of gas during my 60km trip to the track and my 120km on the track.

You will never come close to these constant engine loads or temps on the street without getting arrested first. Even with an oil cooled turbo you still won't come close to those temps. The engine has no where near the load or demand on it. Spirited driving is still much more tame and less demanding than full out track driving.

In all honesty you could save your cash and forgo the gauges completely. It gives you info, but info you likely do not need other than for curiosity's sake. You already took care of the trans temp issue with a cooler so I can't see you having issues there. If you are worried about that than run a Redline ATF instead of the Toyota WS fluid which doesn't appear to be that robust of a fluid unlike their 0w20 oil.

Don't spec a higher weight oil unless you see pressures outside of the Toyota spec'd limits. Lower viscosity means higher flow which means more cooling. Higher viscosities increase temps. This is well documented on the gt-86 platform when people go from 0w20 to 5w30. It also likely contributed to my oil temps last track season as well.

This is my two cents based on me DDing in various temps and pushing my 2zr well past it's limit while keeping a careful eye on oil temps and pressure. I was surprised by some of the date I gathered, it wasn't what I was told or assumed.

[06YarisRS]

I definitely understand the situation regarding finances, it was one of the reasons I went with Glowshift in the first place. In hindsight waiting a few month to purchase AEM gauges would have been the best bet in my situation.

So the main issues with the GS gauges was the extremely small gauge wiring they come with. You have to run your own wires from the sender/sensor to the super tiny wires behind the gauge. You cannot find wires or connectors that small from typical go to stores. I had to double back the small gauge wire to make it crimpable. The gauge needle would randomly start to move 40psi lower or higher at random times. Then sometimes if I tapped the gauge it would do it again. I figured it must be a loose crimp so I rewired and triple checked all my connections to no avail as the issue persisted.

Instead of only having to connect a ground and a hot, you have 3 extra wires that although optional, they run the auto dimming feature and they keep the memory for what color you last chose. These always never held the color properly and would typically default to blue on 2 of the 3 gauges I had. Think of how messy the wiring was, 5 wires behind every gauge each with their own connectors, it was a mess.

AEM conveniently supplies a wire loom with proper connectors to attach the sensor to the back of the gauge. This makes them easy to disconnect when ever you need to or if you need to replace a sensor. All you have to do is splice in a hot and a ground on 2 of the wires from the loom. I have to extend a few wires to make it reach where I wanted the gauges to go, but the wire gauge is not super small so it was easy to work with and IIRC it matched the smallest gauge you can find at CT (21gauge I think?) AEM gauges have an auto sensor that dims the back light based on ambient light in the car. Much simple, cleaner and no gauge sweeping issues or weird electrical problems. Oh, and GS gauges have a little plastic button to change the back light color. Thus button is very loose and rattles consistently since day 1. All of the gauges were like that, it wasn't a one off.

Truth is a proper full syn oil can easily handle upwards of 300*F, most engineers will tell you 450-500F is its limit. Based on my 13k km UOA of 5w30 Pennzoil UP that regularily saw 295F it never degraded the oil to where it lost it's lubricity or viscocity. The whole belief that 260F is an oils upper limit and anything after that needs a cooler is outdated and obsolete with modern full syn oils.

Where temp matter is when it reduces yourt operating pressure below spec. For the 2zr according to Toyota it is 22-58 psi at 3k rpm and anything greater than 3 psi at idle.


Now to fix that you can either run a cooler or simply up a viscocity to maintain pressure, but then you would be running too high a viscocity when not on track. This is why a cooler is ideal for a car that is track driven and a DD'er only if the track pushes it out of its oil pressure specs. I actually strongly disagree with the guy that told you oil temp is more valuable than pressure and here is why:

If your engine has catastrophic failure and you loose oil at an alarming rate, neither a temp or pressure gauge will help you - well maybe a pressure gauge would, but you would have to have it set to an alarm or constantly be monitoring it every couple seconds. Oil temp only tells you the temp of the oil, not what actually matters. You will absolutely never get the oil too hot for a full syn's capability, even if you tracked the crap out of your car. You potentially could push the car/oil outside of the pressure specs if you tracked the crap of of your car.

Notice in the above, the dependant variable is pressure and it is dependant on temp. But only knowing the temp tells you nothing of the pressure. But by knowing pressure you know what is important regardless of the temp. Pressure if a product of temp. If you are going to get 1 gauge, let it be oil pressure. This will guide you in what oil viscosity you need to run (spoiler alert, I can almost guarantee you that 0w20 will be perfectly fine)

Here is why I doubt you will have an oil temp issue. Oil typically runs equal to, or 10 degrees F above coolant temp in 75F temps. Add 10F in peak summer months and subtract 10F in colder months. This is in city driving for a long time or highway cruising, even at 130 km/h. Where oil temps will slightly go up under these conditions is when you climb a long skyway bridge - or better put, any increase engine load. This is why 10 mins in to a 40 min lapping session at the track, my oil temps started to climb. Coolant would peak at 230F and oil would creep up to 285F and hand out there for the rest of the session (this was on stock cooling)

This was only seen during WOT and constantly at high rpm's. To put it in perspective I would go through 3/4 of a tank of gas during my 60km trip to the track and my 120km on the track.

You will never come close to these constant engine loads or temps on the street without getting arrested first. Even with an oil cooled turbo you still won't come close to those temps. The engine has no where near the load or demand on it. Spirited driving is still much more tame and less demanding than full out track driving.

In all honesty you could save your cash and forgo the gauges completely. It gives you info, but info you likely do not need other than for curiosity's sake. You already took care of the trans temp issue with a cooler so I can't see you having issues there. If you are worried about that than run a Redline ATF instead of the Toyota WS fluid which doesn't appear to be that robust of a fluid unlike their 0w20 oil.

Don't spec a higher weight oil unless you see pressures outside of the Toyota spec'd limits. Lower viscosity means higher flow which means more cooling. Higher viscosities increase temps. This is well documented on the gt-86 platform when people go from 0w20 to 5w30. It also likely contributed to my oil temps last track season as well.

This is my two cents based on me DDing in various temps and pushing my 2zr well past it's limit while keeping a careful eye on oil temps and pressure. I was surprised by some of the date I gathered, it wasn't what I was told or assumed.

Wow! Thanks for the detailed response, Trevor. Lots of great info here. I clearly have a few options:

1) Trans Temp Gauge, No Oil Temp Gauge, No Oil Pressure Gauge: Do an oil pressure test with a pressure gauge at the oil port and flow rate at the turbo oil feed (I have the specs required for that). If specs are good, button everything up and not worry about it again. Install the trans temp gauge and call it done. I have the fittings and it would be a simple install.

2) Trans Temp Gauge and Oil Temp Gauge: Install the trans temp gauge as above and if I go with a oil temp gauge using the bored drain plug, I'd have to go with Glowshift as they are the only ones I can see with a sensor probe narrow enough to work in the oil plug fitting that I got. The dual Glowshift gauge I posted the pic of first has full harnesses, so might be marginally better than the individual gauges from a wiring reliability standpoint. Of course, I'd run their harnesses through split loom and secure that along the way with zipties.

3) Trans Temp Gauge, Oil Temp Gauge and Oil Pressure Gauge: For the oil pressure gauge, I'd need an "X" type fitting at the oil pressure port on the engine to accommodate the oil pressure sending unit.

4) Trans Temp and Oil Pressure: as described above.

5) No gauges at all

I'm am leaning toward Option 4.

I'm really not getting the warm and fuzzies about using the oil drain plug fitting with the 3/8" female bore. If for any reason that broke off, the results could obviously be catastrophic. Because of the oil drain plug angle (pointing downward at about a 45 degree angle), it would put the sensor in a strike path if I did run over anything.

If I drop my oil pan and tap a 1/8" NPT hole, I would not be limited to the Glowshift gauges and the options would be wide open.

Decisions, decisions... :biggrin:

[06YarisRS]

Check it out boyz...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wA1mG4dOs4

[tmontague]

She runs!!!!

[06YarisRS]

She runs!!!!

She does! I am concerned a bit about the fuel trims. The STFT and LTFT are around +18 to +19. I'm hoping that it's not related to the fact that I'm using a vented valve cover filter and it's resulting in a vacuum leak, as I believe you alluded to. But, this is what I was advised to do. The other thing is that I don't know if the downstream o2 sensor has any bearing on fuel trims as it's completely disconnected. The odd thing is is that no codes have been set and the car has run 5 - 6 times for a total of about 1/2 hour. Also not sure how the F/IC will affect these readings. As happy as I was that the car started right up - literally on the first crank - I was hoping that when it ran, it would run the same as before the kit. The engine is extremely smooth and may be idling a couple hundred RPM above normal - around 750 RPM. I will go back and check all my other vacuum hoses.

I did rev it up to about 3500 RPM - only after about a total of 20 minutes of idling - and the turbo spooling kinda freaked me out a bit. It's quite a high pitched squealing sound, though I did have my intake off for this initial testing. I paniced a wee bit as it sounded a little like metal on metal, but after watching a few youtube vids on turbo sounds, it's quite similar. Plus, I'm getting great oil flow through the turbo.

It did take a bit to prime the cooling system after some coolant loss from having the heater hoses, throttle body coolant lines etc off. I appear to be getting decent coolant flow through the turbo as the cooling hoses are getting warm. The only thing is is that the upper heater hose isn't really getting that warm, but the lower one is. And, my heater isn't putting out as much heat as before. It is warm but not hot. There may still be some air in the system. Also, the turbo cooling lines are considerably smaller than the actual heater hoses, so there may be some restriction of volume happening there.

Trevor, could you do me a big favor at some point? If you get a chance and are willing, next time you run your car, could you compare the temps of the upper and lower heater hoses and see if they are similar as your car reaches operating temp? Maybe let me know how long it takes for those two hoses to reach a similar temp? I haven't really run mine at temp for very long, so maybe the upper hose (return to engine line, I presume) needs longer to heat up. I tapped into the hose that comes out of the driver's side of the block. The return line, I believe enters the rear of the block. I don't think it actually matters which hose is tapped into.

[eTiMaGo]

Check it out boyz...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wA1mG4dOs4

Sweet!!! been keeping an eye on this project, loving it :smile:

[Maritime]

Nice!

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

Thanks gents! Just a few little bugs to work out. I have a tiny leak at the turbo drain fitting - basically a little drip forms on one for the bolts after running for a bit. I need to source a better gasket. Fuel trims are running high, but the F/IC hasn't been connected yet and it has an internal MAP sensor, so maybe that fixes the trims. Don't yet know much about MAF vs MAP. Also, it could be my valve cover vented to atmosphere causing a vacuum leak. I've got a ticket into turbokits.com for advice on this one. Finally, my heater isn't as hot as it used to be. I did have to fill up with coolant again after disconnecting several hoses, so maybe I've got a bubble in there that needs to work its way out. Also, the turbo cooling lines reduce down in size a lot so maybe it's just less flow through that system.

Overall, great so far. I'm sure the "real fun" will start once I get the F/IC hooked up. Wish me luck. I'll likely need it!

[tmontague]

I would be very surprised if the vented valve cover has anything to do with your fuel trim issue as long as you have no open bungs on your intake or manifold down strem of the maf sensor. My concern with the vented valve cover was crankcase pressure issues as it normally has a vacuum on it pulling out the vapors. That said it shouldn't be a problem because any built up pressure will be greater than atmospheric pressures and vent out anyways.

The F/IC should be able to correct the fuel trims, but other than a vacuum leak I'm not sure why you are running lean fuel trims. FWIW ever since I went with an aftermarket full header back exhaust I have always run -12 to -14 LTFT. This was with my 1nz as well as the 2zr.

Check your oil catch can for vacuum leaks, happens a lot more than you would think and it was the source of a vacuum leak on my 1nz. Do your FT's change/normalize when you rev it to 3k rpm and hold it there? that is a good test of a vacuum leak as there is less vacuum on the system as the throttle opens.

I'll check my heater hoses tonight but the coolant should bleed itself out if that is infact the issue. Also it helps to have the front of the car jacked higher than the rear to aid in bleeding. It puts the rad cap at an even higher point than any other cooling system component to aid in air removal. Also coolant temps will rarely get up to full operating temp idling in a driveway so the heater core will still act as a heat sink even without the hvac fan running and it will still somewhat cool the coolant.

The downstream O2 sensor is a dumb sensor and shouldn't play a role in FT's unlike the upstream AFR sensor does. The downstream O2 sensor typically should throw a code P0420 etc when it is disconnected. But in my experience I have found this to be one of the last engine readiness checks that the ECU runs through so it may take some various condition driving for it to trigger on.

Good luck with the wiring!

[06YarisRS]

I would be very surprised if the vented valve cover has anything to do with your fuel trim issue as long as you have no open bungs on your intake or manifold down strem of the maf sensor. My concern with the vented valve cover was crankcase pressure issues as it normally has a vacuum on it pulling out the vapors. That said it shouldn't be a problem because any built up pressure will be greater than atmospheric pressures and vent out anyways.

The F/IC should be able to correct the fuel trims, but other than a vacuum leak I'm not sure why you are running lean fuel trims. FWIW ever since I went with an aftermarket full header back exhaust I have always run -12 to -14 LTFT. This was with my 1nz as well as the 2zr.

Check your oil catch can for vacuum leaks, happens a lot more than you would think and it was the source of a vacuum leak on my 1nz. Do your FT's change/normalize when you rev it to 3k rpm and hold it there? that is a good test of a vacuum leak as there is less vacuum on the system as the throttle opens.

I'll check my heater hoses tonight but the coolant should bleed itself out if that is infact the issue. Also it helps to have the front of the car jacked higher than the rear to aid in bleeding. It puts the rad cap at an even higher point than any other cooling system component to aid in air removal. Also coolant temps will rarely get up to full operating temp idling in a driveway so the heater core will still act as a heat sink even without the hvac fan running and it will still somewhat cool the coolant.

The downstream O2 sensor is a dumb sensor and shouldn't play a role in FT's unlike the upstream AFR sensor does. The downstream O2 sensor typically should throw a code P0420 etc when it is disconnected. But in my experience I have found this to be one of the last engine readiness checks that the ECU runs through so it may take some various condition driving for it to trigger on.

Good luck with the wiring!

Great info as always, Trevor. Thanks. I will check my catch can for leaks. I'll also see how the trims react at higher rpm, around the suggested 3000. Thanks for being willing to check your heater hoses. I did run the car a bit today and the upper hose seemed warmer than yesterday.

I do have to lengthen my o2 sensor wires and then decide how I am going to route it to the opposite side of the downpipe. I haven't decided, though, whether or not I should have a cat installed. What will however be a logistical problem is how to get the car to the exhaust shop with basically a straight pipe. It is extremely loud! So much so, that I have to wear ear plugs when running the car even at idle. I was wondering if I ought to get a temporary cylindrical muffler that would clamp to the 3" downpipe, so that I could get to the exhaust shop without deafening myself or getting pulled over.

[ern-diz]

So impressive. Massive congrats on the first start. Sounds like you'll have the bugs worked out in no time. Beyond cool.

[06YarisRS]

So impressive. Massive congrats on the first start. Sounds like you'll have the bugs worked out in no time. Beyond cool.

Thanks ern-diz! I think, from a technical standpoint, the most challenging part remains - hooking up the F/IC. To be honest, I've done my best to figure out the wiring, but I'm not fully confident in my ability to have done that correctly. Let's just say I had to make some guesses based upon info from a variety of sources. No one has, as of yet, confirmed decisively that my wiring is correct. The guys at AEM said my diagrams look right, but they couldn't be sure as they were unfamiliar with the car's ECU. I may pester them again for more definite answers, but since the F/IC has been discontinued - and therefore support for the product - I may be lucky to get much of anything.

[tmontague]

Fyi I checked my heater hoses after picking the kids up from daycare andncollant was up to full temp (185F)

Both were hot to the touch and felt roughly the same temp, i couldnt determine if there was any temp difference.

[ern-diz]

Thanks ern-diz! I think, from a technical standpoint, the most challenging part remains - hooking up the F/IC. To be honest, I've done my best to figure out the wiring, but I'm not fully confident in my ability to have done that correctly. Let's just say I had to make some guesses based upon info from a variety of sources. No one has, as of yet, confirmed decisively that my wiring is correct. The guys at AEM said my diagrams look right, but they couldn't be sure as they were unfamiliar with the car's ECU. I may pester them again for more definite answers, but since the F/IC has been discontinued - and therefore support for the product - I may be lucky to get much of anything.

Fingers crossed!

[eTiMaGo]

May I ask, what is the purpose of having both an oil catch can and a breather filter? Don't they both have similar function, taking positive air pressure within the engine and letting it out?

[06YarisRS]

Fyi I checked my heater hoses after picking the kids up from daycare andncollant was up to full temp (185F)

Both were hot to the touch and felt roughly the same temp, i couldnt determine if there was any temp difference.

Thanks! Mine seem to be coming up to temperature now. I'm going to assume that my system wasn't completely bled.

[06YarisRS]

May I ask, what is the purpose of having both an oil catch can and a breather filter? Don't they both have similar function, taking positive air pressure within the engine and letting it out?

The open-to-atmosphere breather is there to let blow by gasses out of the crankcase when the PCV valve is closed under boost. It would also draw fresh air into the crankcase when under vacuum. At least this is my understanding of how it should work. All that said, I'm having fuel trim issues and not sure if the two are related. I'll monitor trims after I have the F/IC hooked up and the car running- hopefully. LOL.

[tmontague]

The open-to-atmosphere breather is there to let blow by gasses out of the crankcase when the PCV valve is closed under boost. It would also draw fresh air into the crankcase when under vacuum. At least this is my understanding of how it should work. All that said, I'm having fuel trim issues and not sure if the two are related. I'll monitor trims after I have the F/IC hooked up and the car running- hopefully. LOL.

your breather shouldn't be the cause of any vacuum issues as it is not connected to the intake in any way. How you currently have it set up is smart as the PCV is normally closed under boost pressure and any blow by will not be able to vent - therein lies the solution of the valve cover breather.

The only way I could see this being a potential issue is during idle when the PCV in barely open and pulling mild vacuum on the crankcase. The breather technically allows fresh air to enter the valve cover and potentially out the PCV and into your intake. Since the PCV venting enters downstream of the MAF (IIRC) then it is unmetered air.

Easiest way to figure this out would be to block of your valve cover breather and see if the fuel trims correct themselves. If they do than a check valve on that breather tube to stop air from going back into the valve cover should solve that issue

[06YarisRS]

your breather shouldn't be the cause of any vacuum issues as it is not connected to the intake in any way. How you currently have it set up is smart as the PCV is normally closed under boost pressure and any blow by will not be able to vent - therein lies the solution of the valve cover breather.

The only way I could see this being a potential issue is during idle when the PCV in barely open and pulling mild vacuum on the crankcase. The breather technically allows fresh air to enter the valve cover and potentially out the PCV and into your intake. Since the PCV venting enters downstream of the MAF (IIRC) then it is unmetered air.

Easiest way to figure this out would be to block of your valve cover breather and see if the fuel trims correct themselves. If they do than a check valve on that breather tube to stop air from going back into the valve cover should solve that issue

You, sir, are a wonder! I was thinking about doing precisely what you mentioned with regard to blocking the breather hose and checking fuel trims. I hadn't thought about the check valve but may have eventually come to the conclusion to try the valve. So, you wouldn't anticipate any issues with, say, an extended period of idling and no way for fresh air to get back into the crankcase as it would stopped by the check valve. I guess I'm not sure I fully understand this system as the original valve cover vent was connected to the intake pipe before the MAF sensor, which, I assume, would also have vacuum on it. How would fresh air ever enter the engine if both the valve cover vent and PCV are under vacuum? Help me understand. LOL!

I am going to check my vacuum again this evening, but even with the open valve cover breather, I think I was getting around 25"/hg at idle. I'll monitor vacuum with the valve cover breather blocked off and not blocked off. BTW, I did test my oil catch can and it's sealed. When I started opening the ball valve, I could hear strong suction and the engine started to stumble. Close the check valve and idle went back to being smooth.

[tmontague]

You, sir, are a wonder! I was thinking about doing precisely what you mentioned with regard to blocking the breather hose and checking fuel trims. I hadn't thought about the check valve but may have eventually come to the conclusion to try the valve. So, you wouldn't anticipate any issues with, say, an extended period of idling and no way for fresh air to get back into the crankcase as it would stopped by the check valve. I guess I'm not sure I fully understand this system as the original valve cover vent was connected to the intake pipe before the MAF sensor, which, I assume, would also have vacuum on it. How would fresh air ever enter the engine if both the valve cover vent and PCV are under vacuum? Help me understand. LOL!

I am going to check my vacuum again this evening, but even with the open valve cover breather, I think I was getting around 25"/hg at idle. I'll monitor vacuum with the valve cover breather blocked off and not blocked off. BTW, I did test my oil catch can and it's sealed. When I started opening the ball valve, I could hear strong suction and the engine started to stumble. Close the check valve and idle went back to being smooth.

25mm/Hg in a good vacuum value during idle- I think I used to see 25-27 give or take on both my 1nz and 2zr back when I had a vacuum gauge set up. Have you checked what happens to your FT's when you hold 3k rpm?

I just checked my engine bay and what I thought earlier was correct: there is no vacuum hose that connects upstream (before) the MAF sensor and the only hose that connects before the TB is the valve cover vent. Because this hose is located prior to the TB, there is never really any vacuum on it. It would only really be able to "suck" air in during moderate to heavy throttle and even then, vacuum is very little at that point so it is more of a passive vent that happens to vent into the intake as opposed to an actual vacuum pulling air out of the valve cover.

Vacuum can only be had post TB as the TB restriction is what creates the vacuum with the help of the engine sucking air in. Think of a vacuum cleaner with a 5' diameter hose. You wouldn't ever really create a vacuum to suck dirt up. But with a 5" diameter hose or even less, you can suck dirt up.

I'm not sure why you think the crankcase needs to have fresh air go into it, it never really ever does. The crankcase never needs fresh air, it simply needs to vent excess pressure above ambient when blow by happens (it always happens, just at varying degrees). WOT and turbo motors create more blow by hence why people recommend turbo builds to have catch cans and/or breather set ups.

The 1nz and 1zz is much different than the 2zr in the way the PCV is set up. In the former engines, the PCV is located on the valve cover and it is the sole vent port for the crankcase (crankcase gases travel up into the head). This makes it easy to attach a catch can.

On the 2zr, the PCV is actually located under the intake manifold as you know, but it is attached to the engine block and separate from the head. Therefore there is also a breather tube on the head that runs into the intake before the TB - this is where you current breather it hooked up to. I am assuming Toyota did this as the head needs to be vented just in case of a situation where pressure builds up there (the highest location of the engine) since the PCV is much lower on the block.

Your PCV is taken care of with your catch can and your head is vented via your breather set up. None of this should cause a problem theoretically as the head should never have a vacuum in any situation and pull air in from your breather. That said, definitely clamp off the breather and see what happens to your FT's. Once that is done, rev your engine to 3k rpm and see what happens to your FT's.

Your engine doesn't need air going into it as it will never be in vacuum, the only thing it needs to do is be able to expel excess pressure from blow by out so as to not blow any seals. Years ago this was just vented to atmosphere as you have done with the breather. Ever since tightening emissions standards the PCV system has come to be the norm.

The PCV valve itself is virtually closed during idle and in any excess pressure situation (boost). It is fully open during WOT where there is little to no vacuum seen on it. In a boosted cars case, any time you are WOT you are usually in boost and therefore not venting the PCV. This is why a breather hose is typically a good idea.

[tmontague]

***EDIT*** jusdt looked at pics of the 1nz. looks like it does have a breather hose that takes air from the intake hose after the filer and MAF but before the TB

Just read some info that some systems (like in the 2zr) a filtered air source for the crankcase is included to replace the air that the PCV valve vents out. This is because in these systems the PCV valve works on a very small but present vacuum to keeps crankcase pressure minimal. This "sucked out" air from the PCV valce needs to be replaced with clean air to avoid the crankcase having a vacuum. This is where that other hose that is located upstream of the TB and enter the valve cover comes into play.

So are you earlier stated technically this hose (which is now your breather) does "suck in" air - I used quotations as it isn't ever actually a vacuums as the negative pressure are so mild. But it is there to act as a vent to actually pull air in and not necessarily out of the crankcase.

How the 1nz and 1zz motors get around this without having the vent hose is beyond me. Something tells me this second hose is a new addition to PCV system to improve their effectiveness and it was added to the much never 2zr but was never included on the 1nz and 1zz due to their elderly status.

With all of this said, it still shouldn't be the source of your FT issue, but to be sure, clamp it off and see what happens

[06YarisRS]

Thanks Trevor. I blocked off the valve cover breather hose with my thumb while monitoring FTs. The suction on my thumb got stronger and stronger. In this situation the STFT actually started to climb and the engine rpm started to drop as though it was starting to struggle. At that point I removed my thumb and the idle went back to normal.

With the breather line open and around 3000 rpm, the STFT drops to about +6 to +7, down from +18 - +19, but LTFT remains at around +29. I'm leaning toward the different plumbing - airflow pattern/volume etc - throwing the MAF off and as a result the FTs and I hope that the MAF clamping via the F/IC should solve, or at least improve the situation. A lean code P0171 was finally set although AFR's always remain around stoich (14.6 - 14.8, so it seems the ECU still had control of fueling) and never deviated from that, except when the throttle was let off and it dropped to 18:1, but that's normal fueling strategy - my 1nz does that too as did the 2ZR pre-turbo.

[tmontague]

Hmm, the change you saw when when the engine r is what you would expect to see from a vacuum leak. Tje STFT will always adjust almost instantly but the LTFT will not until after a while, hence why it is a long term fuel trim.

That being said I have no experience with what a change in plumbing would do to FT's (other than my rich fuel trims seen after my exhaust install)

It's possible it's just your plumbing, but it is also possible that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Use an incense burner or something similar that creates smoke - go in a garage so there is wind, open the engine at and let the car run. Move the smoke stick around your plumbing and see if the smoke gets influenced or "sucked in" anywhere. If not, than assume you have no leaks and just hope the piggyback ecu can adjust the fuel trims which it should.

[06YarisRS]

Thanks Trevor. Yes, I hope the F/IC MAF clamping will help the fuel trims. I'm pretty sure that the F/IC is going to be richening the A/FR anyway as boost comes on. I believe somewhere around 11.5:1 at high boost and rpm to help in preventing detonation. Hopefully my fuel pump can keep up. :biggrin:

As an update, I was getting a fair bit of burned oil smoke in my exhaust and oil in the downpipe. The compressor side and charge piping is dry/pristine. The 3/8" NPT x 1/2" barbed fitting that drains into the oil pan has a slightly upward tilt (due to the backward stance of the engine) causing a little pooling of oil in my return line. I had replaced the steel braided hose with some clear braided water hose to observe the draining. Currently the drain line goes behind and under the axle. I am going to do an upgrade to 5/8" drain hose and route the hose over and in front of the axle. If I use a smooth 45 degree fittings on the turbo oil drain and the pan drain, I'll have lots of axle clearance. I'll also be upgrading the oil pan drain fitting from 3/8" NPT x 1/2" barbed to 1/2" NPT x 5/8" barbed. I think this will provide better oil return to the pan. I'm also upgrading the turbo oil drain flange to a 5/8" fitting as I think the 1/2 barb interior diameter (more like 3/8") is restricting the oil and I have considerable oil supply going into the turbo. I think the current setup is a bit restrictive and hindering timely draining from the CHRA, causing my smoking as oil backs up and leaks through the turbine side piston ring. I'll post pics of this process after I get my parts.

But, for now, I wrestled the oil pan off - yet again. While I have it off, I'll drill and tap a 1/8" NPT for my oil temp. Oh, and I received a fitting to add an oil pressure sensor. I haven't broken it yet to the finance committee that there is another fairly large expenditure in the offing - gauges. I'm thinking oil temp, oil pressure and trans temp should do. I wasn't going to do oil temp at all, but since I have the pan off... :laugh: Torque can report on coolant temp, A/FR, boost etc.

[06YarisRS]

440 CC Fuel Injectors Install

Worst part of this job was cleaning all the sand out from around the injector holes without getting it into the cylinders. This took a long time using a small paint brush dipped in grease, Q-Tips with grease and then brake cleaner. I wish I'd had a small yet powerful vacuum with a tiny nozzle. It would have made the job a lot easier, for sure.

Anyway, job is done. I guess I can't start the car again now without having the piggyback installed and the plugs gapped from .044 to .028. I still have to finish my turbo oil drain and parts are on order and should be here early next week. Then I'll drill and tap a 1/8" NPT for the oil temp gauge and reinstall the pan. Normally, I would be really excited about a gauge installation, choosing the gauges, deciding where to place them, etc, but honestly I'm not looking forward to that process at all.

Fuel rail removal:

https://i.imgur.com/PPdNW62.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/g3d0lZ7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PZ6G8Pd.jpg

Getting all the junk out of the way:

https://i.imgur.com/2HL5AcA.jpg

Lubing the injectors for installation:

https://i.imgur.com/RNsxhVk.jpg

Injectors installed

https://i.imgur.com/sO8TwCo.jpg

All done

https://i.imgur.com/MWoGzEd.jpg

[06YarisRS]

F/IC Wiring Prep

Dug out the F/IC Install Manual and my diagrams I made (and posted on page 1) specific to my ECU. Here, I am just eliminating all the wires that I will not be using for my install. I'd rather not cut these off as the ends are nicely labeled, but tucking them backwards into the harness will make it a lot thicker and necessitate a larger hole through the firewall. I may just extend the harness, containing only the wires I use by putting them in a separate piece of conduit and send that through the firewall.

https://i.imgur.com/s0eZKsA.jpg?1

[Maritime]

Getting so close to tune time. I hear you on the oil guage. It's not as fun as others to install. Keep up the great work. This rhing is going to be insane when you are done.

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

Getting so close to tune time. I hear you on the oil guage. It's not as fun as others to install. Keep up the great work. This rhing is going to be insane when you are done.

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

Yeah, getting there, haha. I had to send AEM an email asking about the grounds. There are 2 Power Grounds and 1 Signal Ground in the F/IC harness. I'm struggling to find where to tap these wires in. Hopefully AEM can provide me with the answer.

I just got off the phone with the guy who will be tuning my car and among other things, we discussed my catch can set up. He strongly advises capping off my pcv system at the block and manifold and moving my catch can - well, actually another catch can (mine is sealed and he suggests vented) to the vent side. He tells me I should connect the catch can to the valve cover vent. Depressing! This is advice contrary to what I've been told by the turbokits guys. I can see how the PCV system might leak a little boost into the crankcase, but what would pull all those nasty gasses out if there's no PCV system anymore? The tuner thinks that my lean condition and positive fuel trims will be cured if I follow his advice. So much contradictory advice abounds... :rolleyes: It would be nice to just know what to do rather than weighing out opinion after opinion and trying to figure out the best route.

[06YarisRS]

F/IC Wiring Begins :eek:

Home of the F/IC will be somewhere in the area below. I have predrilled my hole in the firewall. All I need now is about a 1" - 1 1/4" hole saw and an appropriately sized grommet. Knowing nothing about available sizes, I'm going to have to research this. The F/IC harness is probably 5/8" - 3/4" in diameter. Haha, just noticed that little blue wire - that's connecting the "CT Scott" cruise control to the ECU. I must secure that wire!

https://i.imgur.com/OXNwyZs.jpg

Tracing wires. Recall that I am using a 2008 xD ECU and a 2011 xD wiring harness. I was going by wiring diagrams and not comparing to the car until tonight. Happy to say that all the wires I've checked against my proposed wiring appear to be matching colors and pin locations in the ECU plug. So far I've confirmed switched power, MAF, Cam 1 (intake), Cam 2 (exhaust), all 4 fuel injectors and the crank. Just have to confirm 02 sensors. I'm going by the fundamental rule that MAG sensors have 2 wires and Hall sensors have 3 wires. It's confusing because the AEM F/IC manual says that cars use one type or the other, but not both. My cams are 3-wire and my crank is 2-wire. Still all ears for any guidance on this. The dealer was no help; don't know which type of sensors they are and of course Toyota Canada just sends me back to the - in this case - useless dealer. Fingers crossed. The red circle is the approximate location that the harness will come through.

https://i.imgur.com/RngZlgM.jpg

Culling unnecessary wires. These will remain bundled up under the dash with the F/IC as much as I want to hack them off, or remove them from the connector.

Let the soldering, heat-shrinking and wrapping begin! Actually, it'll be a few days before that process starts.

https://i.imgur.com/aWJX39e.jpg?1

[06YarisRS]

More F/IC Installation Pics

I use a 1 1/4" bi-metal hole saw to cut through the firewall. Why so big, you ask? The F/IC harness is thick and I also have to pass a split loom through for gauge wires as well as the small vacuum line for the F/IC MAP sensor. There should be just enough room. Once it's all in there, I'll glob in some RTV to seal it up. It's not really in an area that gets any water, so this would probably not be necessary, but will do it for good measure.

Hole saw. After I cut through, I painted the bare metal and let it dry.

https://i.imgur.com/qkjOHzr.jpg?1

Reflecting on simplistic algebra I learned in school, I used C= pi x D to figure out how long a piece of rubber vacuum line I needed. I sliced the vacuum line and worked it into place as a 'grommet'. A little RTV on it before installation should keep it in place, but it's mighty secure without the RTV.

https://i.imgur.com/7w9HM2j.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/eG9UETt.jpg

This is not the final placement of the F/IC. I will likely secure it to the upper kick panel area behind the glovebox and run the USB laptop interface into the glove box.

https://i.imgur.com/hnVPjk8.jpg

Lovely spaghetti to sort out...
https://i.imgur.com/QOJPRmy.jpg

[tmontague]

looks good, good luck!

are you using an oil restriction plate on your turbo oil inlet?

[06YarisRS]

looks good, good luck!

are you using an oil restriction plate on your turbo oil inlet?

Thanks! I'll need it.

I'm going to try my upgraded drain system first to see if it allows the turbo to drain quicker. The turbokits guys sent me a restrictor .06" that attaches to the fitting at the block as opposed to at the turbo oil inlet. If my smoking is cured by the larger drain, I won't install the restrictor. Despite what I've read online, I've been assured that a .06" restrictor is perfectly fine for a journal bearing turbo. Apparently they have a number of kits running with the restrictor. As a matter of interest, what oil pressures do you see routinely under low and high revs?

I've been struggling to figure out how to fix my fuel trim issues. My tuner says ditch the PCV altogether by blocking off the manifold and PCV. He says to use a vented catch can on the valve cover side. He believes it will fix my fuel trim issues :iono:. I like the idea of my crankcase being evacuated of all that crap. I'm not sure if I could run a hose from my valve cover to a sealed catch can and then into my 3" intake (pre-turbo) and if that would make any difference. Theoretically, no "new" air would be introduced into the system and there would be vacuum. But, then again if the vent is to allow air into the block as the PCV allows vacuum to clear the block, maybe these two sides would be fighting each other. I know that the F/IC has a MAP sensor built in and apparently MAP is unaffected by vacuum leaks or unmetered air. I have an email in to turbkits asking them to explain this. There isn't anything in the manual that talks about how to deal with the PCV/breather system and there's definitely no return fitting post MAF and pre-TB as in the stock system. I had a look at the F/IC fuel map today and it shows negative numbers that actually seem to parallel the positive fuel trims that I'm seeing. That said, I don't really understand the tables - yet. Maybe all my fuel trim issues will be resolved with the F/IC install.

Here is the latest I've been reading. About 1/2 down the page, "Keith" seems to explain it in a way I can comprehend. It's where I got teh idea to plumb the valve cover hose through a catch can to my custom 3" intake.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/turbo-open-pcv-fail/11243/page1/

Feel free to speculate if you care to.

Thanks.

[06YarisRS]

Fuel Trims and Toyota 02 Sensors and some updates

If found an interesting article on Toyota oxygen sensors. Most of the reading I've done online suggests that downstream 02 sensors are not related to fuel trims, but it seems that some Toyotas do infact collect data from the post-cat sensor which may influence fuel trims. From paragraph 22: "Since Toyota allows the rear O2 sensor a surprisingly large authority over fuel trim, you’ll want to test it carefully as well. (Many generic interfaces call out the rear O2 sensor’s contribution to fuel trim separately under a heading such as FTB1S2.)"

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/dealing-with-sensitive-types-toyota-af-sensors/

Right now, my downstream sensor is just hanging beside my downpipe.

As mentioned my fuel trims are out of whack. Speaking with the turbokits tech support, the issues should be resolved when the F/IC is hooked up. There is a distinct difference in how the stock MAF sensor is mounted vs in the kit charge piping. In the stock application, the intake pipe narrows and appears to direct all of the air through the sensor. In the kit, the MAF sits in the middle of the free-flowing piping. The MAF clamp feature of the F/IC caps the voltage to around 5 volts which keeps the ECU from going snaky with higher voltage inputs.

Pic of the MAF housing in stock airbox:

https://i.imgur.com/0CveNzR.jpg

I'm continuing to try to figure out all possible causes of my high trims - or maybe more appropriately, what factors could contribute to a lean condition. With the valve cover vented to atmosphere, it draws fresh air into the crankcase as the PCV vacuums out the combustion byproducts. Because this new air from the valve cover breather is then drawn into the manifold via the PCV system, it could be considered unmetered air. I have been receiving a number of different theories and suggestions from different sources. One guy says that I should be fine with my current setup as the crankcase has nothing to do with the vacuum system. Another source says that introducing air directly into the crankcase via the valve cover breather will definitely introduce unmetered air and make the car run lean. The guy who will be tuning my car says to remove (block off) the PCV system at the manifold and PCV valve (at block) and run my catch can with a breather on it on the valve cover breather. Yet another source suggests, blocking the manifold PCV intake, removing the PCV and putting a breather on that along with my valve cover breather. Lots of suggestions!

On another note, I have been advised to not attempt to have the F/IC control the VVTi and with regard to timing, all that's needed is the crank sensor at the relatively low boost that this kit will have.

I will also be changing my source of power to the F/IC from my original proposed pin 28 on connector A21 to the #1 EFI switched/fused circuit.

[06YarisRS]

Turbo Oil Drain Upgrades and Overall Wiring Diagram

I'm in the process of upsizing my oil drain. I started at around a 9.8mm diameter, then 12mm and finally 14mm (left to right). The 14mm bore should be able to handle 2 to 2.5 times as much oil as the 9.8mm bore. I'll be going from 1/2" drain to 5/8" and a shorter and straighter shot to the pan.

https://i.imgur.com/N7lSmlE.jpg?1

Unfortunately, my package depot lost my 45 degree fitting which is a major inconvenience as I'll have to wait another week to finish the drain. Big bummer.

I printed, spliced and laminated the wiring diagram pages into one long document. This is the Engine Control schematic, with the long narrow blue bar representing a portion of the car's ECU.

https://i.imgur.com/LoiEILM.jpg

[06YarisRS]

More on the new drain and Oil temp sensor port

My drain is finished. I put the pan back on this evening so I'll test the drain tomorrow with the clear tubing and if leak free and smoke free, I'll replace the clear tube with the braided hose.

Almost lined up. I'm going to reclock the turbo CHRA. It is about 8 degrees off vertical. The drain fittings should line up near perfectly with the turbo clocked back to vertical.

I had to bevel off the 45 galvanized fitting as it wouldn't turn without hitting the block. Most of the threads a well below the collar that I ground off. The barbed fitting isn't cranked down in yet, just test fitting for alignment. I have tons of clearance above the axle. The outboard end of the axle would basically have to be sticking out the quarter panel to even get close to my drain.

https://i.imgur.com/u6ukoUr.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7viEvtM.jpg

Oil temp sensor port drilled out to 11/32"

https://i.imgur.com/N5O9rLD.jpg

Tapping

https://i.imgur.com/mfxgUza.jpg

Temporary sensor in pan. This is an old sensor I had left over from some cheap Chinese gauges I have on my shelf collecting dust. I'll drain my oil and replace with the actual sensor from whichever gauge I buy. I like the positioning of the sensor - right below the turbo drain. In this location, I should get nearly the highest reading in the lube system.

https://i.imgur.com/E5Tm3h5.jpg

Sensor in with Permatex thread sealant. Pan reinstalled. Hopefully no leaking at pan or sensor.

https://i.imgur.com/wZAOrdR.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Breakthrough on Fuel Trims...maybe

I was taken by suprise on this one. I finished up my drain with the test hose so thought I'd check the oil flow. A little backstory first...

I wasn't sure the car was going to start with the new injectors in it. I cranked the car over and could immediately smell a very strong gas odor and the car would not start. Fuel was pissing from my fuel rail. So, I pulled the rail off and the injectors out and 3 of the o-rings were torn/squished. They did seem a little tight going in but no tighter than taking them out. The reason I didn't swap out the o-rings from the stock injectors was because the Deatschwerk o-rings on the injectors looked identical in size. Anyway, I swapped in the stock o-rings. The injectors seemed very loose in the fuel rail and I was worried that I'd have to order new o-rings. I know that the rail bolts hold the rail in place but I figured with as loose as the injectors were, I'd definitely have a leak. Well, they sealed perfectly and the rail is still bone dry after a good 20 minutes of running the car.

The great news - I hope - is that my fuel trims have leveled out nicely. STFT oscillates between 0.0 and - 0.8. LTFT is still creeping down from it's +29 to around - 5.5 in the short time running. I would expect it to run a little rich and the ECU to pull a little fuel with the larger injectors, so this looks promising. The F/IC is still not installed. I do not understand how the larger injectors leveled the trims as the car is running well out of boost and there are no other variables that I am aware of.

Also, on a positive note, my oil drain seems to work much better and I have no smoking anymore at either Idle or 3500 - 4000 rpm.

https://i.imgur.com/jr91SjZ.jpg

[ern-diz]

Great news!

[CrankyOldMan]

Awesome news!

I know NPT threaded parts are cheap and readily available at the local hardware store but they suffer from the exact problem you had--limited flexibility when installing in a tight place. There are a few other standards out there from the hydraulics world that might make your life easier should you need to revisit or clean up the plumbing: SAE, JIC, O-ring boss, etc. The ones with an angled/flared end can usually be clocked any way you need and tightened down without rotating the connection. You can usually get custom hoses with the connectors crimped at a local hydraulics supply for a modest price once you nail down the placement of the connectors.

How much longer before this thing can go out and terrorize your neighborhood? =D

[tmontague]

great to hear the FT's smoothed out. I'm really surprised as to how a potential fuel leak could have caused this issue as it should have run rich not lean, but either way glad it seems settled.

I guess the issue with your turbo oiling wasn't too much oil going in but not going out at a fast enough rate? That said, is it possible you had too much oil supplied to the turbo where you need such a large drain tube? I can't see too much oil being a problem as long as you can drain it adequately, it just seems like a much larger diameter drain tube than I have ever seen before.

After following your in depth turbo build I fully understand why long time track rats tend to say that an all engine build is superior to a boosted set up for a track car. This is by no means knocking your turbo build - I think it is awesome and will be a completely original and fun DDer - I just mean from a track car point of view. Many more fittings for potential oil leaks and therefore dangerous and costly fires (which happen a fair amount at the track). More heat to have to cool and many more fittings and parts to have to constantly check to ensure it is all working fine.

Obviously this is a bigger chore in a car that was NA form the factory, but I can see why people talk about turbo'd Miatas constantly needing work and they tend to be down more than they're running.

Good work thus far, I'm excited to hear about your thoughts on driving it once it is fully functional.

Side note - I would recommend you purchase a fire extinguisher to have in your car once it is fully operational. All it takes is a small oil leak to cause a fire that can write off your car, vs a small mess to clean up and some wire to repair.

[06YarisRS]

Great news!

Getting pumped here! LOL!

[06YarisRS]

Awesome news!

I know NPT threaded parts are cheap and readily available at the local hardware store but they suffer from the exact problem you had--limited flexibility when installing in a tight place. There are a few other standards out there from the hydraulics world that might make your life easier should you need to revisit or clean up the plumbing: SAE, JIC, O-ring boss, etc. The ones with an angled/flared end can usually be clocked any way you need and tightened down without rotating the connection. You can usually get custom hoses with the connectors crimped at a local hydraulics supply for a modest price once you nail down the placement of the connectors.

How much longer before this thing can go out and terrorize your neighborhood? =D

Great advice Sam! I really just started fooling around with what I could source locally. I didn't expect it to work well and it's a bit of a hack job. That said, it seems leak free, flows very well, but I'll def keep my eye on it for leaking. If it holds up well, I may leave it as it's well hidden away there. Then again, my tuner might take one look at it and insist that I do something different. We shall see.

Well, I have an appointment for my exhaust work in a week and a bit, then my dyno tuning session on 15 July, so I'm gonna say I'll be in terror mode on 15 July! Though, for the first while, the terror will be mine. LOL!

[06YarisRS]

great to hear the FT's smoothed out. I'm really surprised as to how a potential fuel leak could have caused this issue as it should have run rich not lean, but either way glad it seems settled.

I guess the issue with your turbo oiling wasn't too much oil going in but not going out at a fast enough rate? That said, is it possible you had too much oil supplied to the turbo where you need such a large drain tube? I can't see too much oil being a problem as long as you can drain it adequately, it just seems like a much larger diameter drain tube than I have ever seen before.

After following your in depth turbo build I fully understand why long time track rats tend to say that an all engine build is superior to a boosted set up for a track car. This is by no means knocking your turbo build - I think it is awesome and will be a completely original and fun DDer - I just mean from a track car point of view. Many more fittings for potential oil leaks and therefore dangerous and costly fires (which happen a fair amount at the track). More heat to have to cool and many more fittings and parts to have to constantly check to ensure it is all working fine.

Obviously this is a bigger chore in a car that was NA form the factory, but I can see why people talk about turbo'd Miatas constantly needing work and they tend to be down more than they're running.

Good work thus far, I'm excited to hear about your thoughts on driving it once it is fully functional.

Side note - I would recommend you purchase a fire extinguisher to have in your car once it is fully operational. All it takes is a small oil leak to cause a fire that can write off your car, vs a small mess to clean up and some wire to repair.

Hey Trevor. The car never ran with the leaking fuel rail. The high trims were with the stock injectors.

The turbokits guys sent me a restrictor and I've read that some journal bearing turbos do use them if the drain has been confirmed good. From my reading, this size turbo should ideally have a 14mm + drain. Initially, I was around 9.8mm and I'm now close to 14mm. I do believe that the turbo CHRA couldn't drain off the oil fast enough and I wanted to confirm that was the issue before I went ahead with the restrictor, which is a Vibrant (0.06", 0.045" and 0.030" adjustable with pills.). If I get smoking on steep hills or otherwise, I plan to drill out the Vibrant restrictor to 0.080" or 0.090". Right now the oil supply fitting that came with the turbo is 0.118" (around 3mm). I think I have enough drain to handle a very solid oil flow.

I get your points about a track vs turbo track car. I hope that the turbo 2ZR auto will prove to be a fun DD. And, yes!, I have a fire extinguisher. Any leaks that I get in my drain plumbing (zero pressure) would likely not get anywhere near the manifold or turbine housing and drip down to cooler areas. But, yeah, if say the oil feed line broke and started spewing oil onto the manifold/turbine, I bet it could make quite a fireball.

As an aside, I have a lot of reflective fiberglass heat shield tubing that I'll be putting on all the lines (oil supply, water lines, upper drain area etc). Fortunately, all hoses and supply lines are well clear of the really hot parts.

[06YarisRS]

Ordered gauges today...

After lots of searching, I decided to go with Prosport Performance Series gauges. The reason...budget and the fact that I found an amazon listing for the oil temp gauge at $13.00/ea (regularly ~ $50.00 a pop - must be a closeout, or something). So, I ordered 2 of those; one for oil temp and one for trans temp. I also ordered an electrical oil pressure gauge. Not bad, I guess for around $110.00 CAD. I read a bunch of reviews and people were generally very positive about them. I expect that they are a competitor for the Glowshift gauges. I think I'll order the eBay 3 pod gauge as well. So for around $160.00 CAD, I'll have my gauges installed on the A-pillar. I didn't really wan to mount them there, but there aren't many other good locations Also, discovered that Princess auto has all their multi color primary wire on sale this month. Bonus!

https://i.imgur.com/VYEywxI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JU0UeeQ.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Transmission temp sensor housing

I decided to build my own rather than wait for parts ordered online. I found a 1/2"NPT x 1/8"NPT tee at a local hardware store. This is better than other offerings, IMO, as the interior of the fitting is larger so the sensor probe will not restrict fluid flow in any way. I had a couple 1/2"NPT x 3/8" barb fittings. Although this is a bit of a heavy rig, it will be supported by the hose over the brass barbs with my rubber coated P-clips (these things have been indespensible in my build) bolted to the subframe. I wrapped the fitting with a piece of rubber hose around the contraption as it will be contacting the subframe, tightly though, so there should be no chafing. I've always had good luck with the Permatex Ultra Black as a thread sealant - especially larger, more coarse threads. I'll monitor the zip ties and if they look like they're not handling the heat, I'll use a couple of my steel zip ties. The nylon ties have a melting point over 400F, so the should be fine. Even if they did come off, the rubber hose is glued on with the Ultra black and the whole unit is held tightly against the frame with the P-clips. I can't see the rubber going anywhere. On the sensors (1/8"NPT), I'll use my Permatex High Heat Thread Sealant. The old sensor in there is just a temporary seal until my gauges arrive.

https://i.imgur.com/0pKqNHQ.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Evap Hose and Oil Catch Can

I installed my catch can and because I didn't have any hose, I picked up some rubber fuel hose from the local parts store. It seemed quite firm, but completely failed under vacuum. It basically sucked flat. So, I went to a local hydraulics shop and picked up some Pulsar 4000 psi hose. Not cheap at ~ $5.95/ft, so thankfully I only needed about 2.5 ft. They had some cheaper stuff at $2.49/ft but it was heavily steel reinforced rubber and I was worried that I wouldn't get a good seal with a clamp as it was so rigid, plus it seemed less flexible than the Pulsar stuff. The Pulsar hose appears to be constructed with a very thick teflon liner. I tested it with my 3/8" barb fittings and it seals well. It may not even require a clamp, but I'll put one on for good measure.

I had no idea that the vacuum produced by a car could completely flatten a rubber hose. These is no way that this Pulsar hose will even be slightly deformed by the vacuum. It's designed to handle 4000 psi (outward pressure of course), but I could barely deform it squeezing as hard as I could. I'll report back on how it holds up.

https://i.imgur.com/ATTEKH7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hSyhXHl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/x4b2DqF.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Turbo Drain...Take 3...

When I designed my new turbo drain, I thought I'd accounted for enough room of axle movement vertically and horizontally. I had taken into account the fact that the car's suspension was fully extended as the car was on jackstands. After lowering the car onto blocking today, I had about the clearance that I was expecting but I'm not fully confident that in an extreme braking situation combined with a bump that the axle would clear the fittings. This would be particularly devastating as the galvanized fittings would smash forward and probably take a chunk of the block (where the oil pan inlet is) with it.

So, I removed a couple of the fittings and went straight vertical with the hose and joined the 45 under the turbo. There is a good curve but smooth and the hose has fully retained it 'roundness'.

***Nerd Alert***: I took some measurements:

3.5" upward vertical deflection for outboard of axle to contact frame. The is a little indentation in the frame, presumeably in the event of the worst possible nose-down scenario combined with running over a log or something for the maximum possible deflection.

22" from inboard CV joint to area where axle would contact the frame - a highly unlikely event. The axle is close to 28" hub to hub (excluding the splined sections), so the wheel would basically have to be well into the engine bay, I'd think, by the time the axle bottomed out on the frame.

6" from inner CV hub to where drain line crosses over axle.

1.75" vertical distance between drain line and axle.

Using a slope calculator, I should have more than adequate clearance. Also, as the wheel hub deflects up and down from center, the pivot point of the axle would move outboard, allowing me even more space between the axle and drain line. I will wrap a bit of tape around the drain hose just above the axle and check it for evidence of contact. Even if it did make contact, it's now going to hit a flexible line as opposed to steel fittings.

I have about 1" clearance horizontally between the pan fittings and axle. When I had the rear lower mount (dog bone) out, I could rock the engine and forward until it hit the radiator and rearward until it hit the subframe. Even with these extreme movements, the axle would not contact my drain line. The engine will likely tilt forward at the top due to the mount geometry. I did stiffen my dogbone mount, so I expect movement near the inner axles will happen but it should be pretty minimal. That said, I might turn the galvanized elbow in another turn just to be super safe. The axle should tend to move away from the drain as the bottom of the engine torques forward, while accelerating in a forward direction. I guess there's no real way to know. Maybe I need a GoPro. lol


https://i.imgur.com/0sY3W1H.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qM8fHm5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/v0re4xT.jpg