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Old 03-28-2019, 08:29 AM   #73
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Old 03-28-2019, 12:34 PM   #74
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:24 PM   #75
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Remembuh when I told you I wouldn't turbo my ka?...I lied. (Arnie)
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Old 03-28-2019, 04:04 PM   #76
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Quote:
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Remembuh when I told you I wouldn't turbo my ka?...I lied. (Arnie)
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Old 03-28-2019, 04:21 PM   #77
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Remembuh when I told you I wouldn't turbo my ka?...I lied. (Arnie)
Ha!
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Old 03-29-2019, 05:46 PM   #78
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Hood and wiper cowl removed. Much better access into the back of the engine bay. I got the two top bolts off the upper exhaust shield very easily. The bottom bolts are much more reluctant as they are in fairly large captive nuts. I've soaked them in ReleasAll and will go at them again tomorrow. Getting these shields off and the manifold out, may be one of the tougher parts of this project. I'm still thinking the turbo (without manifold) may not fit in without either dropping the subframe or removing the axle and going infront of the subframe. Hopefully I'll know this weekend.



On a positive note, I pushed the tunnel heat shield up and I have more space to work with. I may ultimately remove it. I will do measurements of the Yaris tunnel tomorrow. Today, I drove a colleague's 2012 Corolla onto our hoist at the school and took some pics.

Yaris Tunnel:



Corolla Tunnel - Next 3 images. Measures about 7.5" of clearance from the top of the tunnel to subframe. And close to 8" side to side/








Attached the fittings (oil supply, oil return, water supply, water return) to the turbo this evening. Just need a couple clamps on the water lines. Fingers crossed that there are no leaks after install.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 03-29-2019 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 03-30-2019, 10:21 AM   #79
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When I was putting together my air system for the air horns in both my old truck and yaris I used loctite brand thread sealant. 545 I believe it is. When you read the specs on this stuff you soon realize they probably use this stuff on the space shuttle. I highly recommend. Never had any issues with leaking air at 120psi.
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Old 03-30-2019, 11:39 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstyota View Post
When I was putting together my air system for the air horns in both my old truck and yaris I used loctite brand thread sealant. 545 I believe it is. When you read the specs on this stuff you soon realize they probably use this stuff on the space shuttle. I highly recommend. Never had any issues with leaking air at 120psi.
Ah, thanks! I used teflon tape, but will probably remove my oil supply line and oil drain line and use the thread sealant. The water lines are banjo style and use both copper washers and metal/rubber combination seals, so no need for a thread sealant there, though it probably wouldn't hurt. Heading to town this afternoon to get a few clamps, so I'll pick up the thread sealant then. They don't have the loctite brand, only Permatex, but I expect it's basically the same stuff.
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Old 03-30-2019, 12:22 PM   #81
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Trust me. It's not. Splurge and get a big bottle. You'll probably never need another. Warning. It is a bit pricey. The loctite brand is premium stuff. That's why home depot and Canadian tire don't Cary it.

We use their thread locker on our drilling rigs at work. Never lets us down.

Main reason I say this is because of the heat that the fitting will see. Permatex is great for every day application, but a turbo 2zr swapped yaris is not an every day car!
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Old 03-30-2019, 01:43 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstyota View Post
Trust me. It's not. Splurge and get a big bottle. You'll probably never need another. Warning. It is a bit pricey. The loctite brand is premium stuff. That's why home depot and Canadian tire don't Cary it.

We use their thread locker on our drilling rigs at work. Never lets us down.

Main reason I say this is because of the heat that the fitting will see. Permatex is great for every day application, but a turbo 2zr swapped yaris is not an every day car!
I will take your advice and pick up the Loctite brand due to your ringing endorsement.
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Old 03-30-2019, 08:43 PM   #83
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Oil drain fitting installation. A hole needs to be drilled in the block, but it's right inline with the front crossmember precluding the use of a standard drill. I picked up this little DeWalt 90 degree impact adapter for around $24.00. I just noticed this evening that Canadian Tire has a 3-piece 1/4" shank step drill bit kit on sale for $13.99, down from $39.99 (the same ones, likely, as the $9.00 kits available on eBay). Gee, thanks Canadian Tire.

Here is where the hole needs to be drilled, and below that, my little DeWalk adapter.



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Old 03-30-2019, 10:14 PM   #84
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Upper Manifold Shield Off

Finally! This was a bear. The bolts that protruded through the captive nuts were very rusty and took a lot of soaking, wire brushing of the exposed threads below and considerable force to remove. I was sure I was going to break my 12mm ratchet wrench (A+ for Mastercraft Maximum). Each turn was a sharp snap. I worked them back and forth and finally they came out. Very tight space to work in too.



Manifold should come off tomorrow. After of course, I have to get the lower heat shield and manifold support bracket off. I have to remove the lower heat shield to get at the support bolts.



Here is the space I have to work with. I have about a 7" x 7" window. The turbo is close to 8" at the widest spot (the compressor outet), but I'm optimistic that I can tilt it over the steering rack and get it in there. The wastegate actuator and bracket will definitely have to come off and get reinstalled after the turbo is mounted. I'm less worried about the manifold, but it will have to go in first and by itself. I removed the long tunnel heat shield that runs back past the resonator. I'll replace this before I install the downpipe.

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2008 Yaris LE H&R 10mm spacers (rear), RS rear spoiler
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 03-30-2019 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 03-30-2019, 11:20 PM   #85
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Your stock manifold looks a lot different than mine. I noticed mine looks like a typical aftermarket welded and bent tube design whereas yours appeals to looks like a cast design. I would have assumed they would he the exact same.

Btw great job so far and I appreciate you taking pics of everything
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Old 03-31-2019, 12:02 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Your stock manifold looks a lot different than mine. I noticed mine looks like a typical aftermarket welded and bent tube design whereas yours appeals to looks like a cast design. I would have assumed they would he the exact same.

Btw great job so far and I appreciate you taking pics of everything
Thanks, Trevor. Pretty sure mine is welded tubing, though it does look cast in the pics.

I was hefting the turbo tonight and it's quite a heavy beast. The manifold, as you know has 2 studs/nuts up top and 3 below. I don't quite understand this as the reverse would be more structurally sound, IMO. I'm going to see how difficult it might be to adapt the existing manifold support bracket to work with the turbo. There are 6 bolts on the compressor housing and 4 on the turbine. If it works in a way that the turbo downpipe clears the stock support bracket, I may see if I can bolt a support arm from the stock bracket to the turbo using either the compressor or turbine bolts - which ever is more centered over the support. I know the turbokits guys knew what they were doing when they built the kit, but it just seems like a lot of mass hanging from that manifold. The manifold itself could probably hold a ton (not exaggerating) but I'm a concerned about the 5 fairly small studs/nuts that hold it on. If the Toyota engineers thought that the small lightweight manifold needed a support, then I'm thinking that this turbo is a heck of a lot heavier and could use some support. Maybe I'm overthinking this.
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Old 03-31-2019, 05:11 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
..... I know the turbokits guys knew what they were doing when they built the kit, but it just seems like a lot of mass hanging from that manifold. The manifold itself could probably hold a ton (not exaggerating) but I'm a concerned about the 5 fairly small studs/nuts that hold it on. If the Toyota engineers thought that the small lightweight manifold needed a support, then I'm thinking that this turbo is a heck of a lot heavier and could use some support. Maybe I'm overthinking this.
I wouldn't say so..brace that puppy as best you can.
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Old 03-31-2019, 11:25 AM   #88
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Exhaust Manifold Off

The manifold is off with no broken studs. I think the wire brushing and days of soaking with the ReleasAll really helped. They were tight, but turned smoothly.

I was thrilled that the tunnel is big enough to pull the manifold through, so I'm optimistic that the turbo and turbo manifold will fit through, though separately.

The most involved part was removing all the heat shields. You have to take off one at a time to reveal the next set of bolts. Because of their proximity - obviously - to the heat of the manifold, the exposed threads past the captive nuts get really rusty and explode, making them very difficult to remove. Anyway, on to the pics...

Nasty Heat Shields/bracket Removed (these bolts themselves were in good shape, unlike many of the others):



Manifold Nut Removal:



Manifold Out:



Manifold Gasket (Ordering a new one tomorrow)



Ready for Turbo Manifold ( I may see what's involved in procuring and replacing the firewall padding as mine's a bit ratty. Or, I'll just trim if off neatly):

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Old 03-31-2019, 01:41 PM   #89
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Manifold/Turbo Test Fit - The Good and The Bad

The Good: The manifold and turbo fit separately through the tunnel.





The Bad: In its current state, there is not enough room for the turbo between the head and firewall.

The OK: However, I think I really only need to make about a 1" deep indentation in the firewall for adequate clearance - maybe a touch more to allow for engine rocking. I wonder what's directly behind this area in the car. So, I'll be bringing home, from the shop tomorrow a couple of brass rods and a big-arse hammer. I'll have to peel the carpet bak and make sure I won;t damage anything in that area.

Edit: On another very positive note, I took the downpipe out and it looks as though it is going to fit perfectly without any mods. Very happy about that!

I also have to clock the turbo a few more degrees so the compressor outlet lines up allowing the charge pipe to fit in the opening between the subframe and axle.



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2008 Yaris LE H&R 10mm spacers (rear), RS rear spoiler
2011 Kia Sedona LX

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 03-31-2019 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 03-31-2019, 02:18 PM   #90
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And the modification begins! Hahaha
This is the fun part!!
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