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Old 02-05-2019, 08:36 PM   #1
myfirstyota
3 Yaris and counting..
 
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 672
The Lift Kit Thread

One day, I was driving down a snowy road in a lowered yaris. My old silver '07 3 door to be exact. As I could hear and feel the snow dragging on the floor pan I thought, am I gonna get stuck? How much extra fuel is this requiring? Is that massive ice chunk that fell off that truck gonna take out my bumper? Or worse a fuel line or something of the like? The answers that came to mind were maybe, a shit ton, and possibly, respectively. That's where it began... The idea of a fully bolt in suspension lift for our awesome little cars.

3 years later I got serious about it. My truck wasn't justifiable to continue to own. The cost of ownership versus the amount of use it got didn't add up. The thought of driving a lowered car through another winter made me cringe. The thought of swapping springs every 6 months bothered me. The idea of a yaris on stock suspension made me puke a lil in my mouth. So I started researching.

I found the Yaris Overlander. Black 3 door based out of B.C. Canada. Cool ride but, not a whole lot of info on the build itself. I found CTScotts crashy. Wild what that guy has done with that car. I researched donks (I know a donk is model and era specific vehicle but are generalized as lifted cars with huge wheels)

After soaking up all this, I came up with a plan. A front wheel drive donk/crashy inspired (coppied) front lift. Basically just 2 heavy gauge plates of steel with 2 sets of 2 holes drilled into them the same distance apart as the 2 bolts that hold the knuckle to the front strut. Exactly how crashy got its lift. Essentially lengthening the strut between the knuckle and where it mounts to the strut. I seen that many fwd donks are built this way and thought if Scott can plow with this setup, and donks run 28's on this setup.. it must be strong enough.

Ok, cool. Front is done. But what about the rear? Longer springs? Shocks to match? Off the shelf spring spacers? How will it ride? Will I be able to get the rake right(Stance)? How am I gonna find a longer shock that fits? I decided f_ck all that. I'm gonna use the stock springs and stock shocks just like the front. Rake will match factory, shocks will be easy to source, and if done right, could be completely bolt in.

So I went out to my scrap xD with my grinder and a cut off wheel. Zip, zip,zip and I'm holding 2 rear spring perches identical to the ones on the yaris axle. These are the key. These will allow you to retain your stock shocks because the lower shock mount is part of the spring perch.

This is where the measuring tape came out. A few quick measurements jotted down on a sketch pad and I was on my way to the metal place. $105cad and a waterjet cutting table and I have my pieces to fabricate my custom spring spacers.

The idea here is to fabricate a spacer that will sit in the factory spring perch and allow the donor xd perches to sit on top of them. Essentially pushing the lower spring perch up in relation to the rear axle. If the perch is mounted higher on the axle, the axle will sit further from the bottom of the spring giving you your lift.

Now pushing the axle down 3-4" will change the angle of the spring perch. To compensate this, I plan to cut the top of the spacer body on a bit of an angle. This should allow the xd perch to sit closer to the natural angle of the oem perch.

The oem perch has 8 holes in the base of it. I plan to drill 4 corresponding holes in the bottom flange of the spacer. That will be the 'bolt in' part. Pretty sure I'm just gonna weld the top xD perch to the top flange. No need to ever take that apart really.

I feel as though I may need to brace the shock mount on the upper xd perch as much of the strength was probably lost when I cut the perch from the axle. I don't see this being hard. Couple small pieces of metal bolted from the strong lower mount straight up to the weaker upper mount. I believe this is problem solved.

So my welding isn't the best, but I think it's gonna hold. I wanted to see what kind of angle the stock spring perch sits on so I can adjust the angle of the spacer to sit close to the factory spring perch angle...if you catch my drift.




Here is the properly mocked up spacer. Just gotta finish up the welds and drill 4 holes in the bottom flange.


Here you can see how they sit in the factory spring perch.



This is the spacer with the spring perch and shock support all welded up. Remember now guys, this is a lift kit thread, not a welding-skills-flaming thread! In my defense you're only seeing pictures of the driver side. The passenger side was much prettier. I'm slowly getting better.



This is the spacer installed and lightly bolted in place. The washers were adjusted for the final tighten. The shock bolts I bought are a tad too short. No biggie. Swap them out for a longer version tomorrow.



There we are with the spring installed. No compressor needed but it may be a tight fit if you're limited with Jack height :)




Once you lower the car, what you're doing sets in.


Then I drove it up on a 4 inch brick on one side, and 3 inch assortment if wood on the other, just to see what it would look like


So,I've finally been able to almost complete the front lift. Just need find something to keep the upper bolts from collapsing the shock tabs when tightened. I'm just thinking stacked washers. Easiest and cheapest.


Disregard the clamp. It's just holding everything tight so you can get a better idea how it all works.

The only thing is, by doing the lift this way, you will need to grind/cut the bottom lip off the strut with an angle grinder/rotory tool for the 2 lift plates to sit parallel with each other. Other than this slight modification, both the front and rear lift are bolt-in.


Here you can see the oddly shaped upper spacer plates. They need to be cut like this to give you a flat-ish surface to mount the outter lift plates. The knuckle mounting tabs on oem shocks are stamped and have irregular shape assumingly for ridigity. If you have an aftermarket shock, these may not be needed. For example my bilstein shocks on my red car, have flat mounts.



In this pic you can see the assortment of spacer plates it takes to make this work with oem shocks. Notice the upper spacer plates are chamfered on the edges to clear the angles of the shock mount. You can also see some clearancing on the lift plates themselves.


Here you can see how the bottom spacer plates work



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Last edited by myfirstyota; 10-14-2019 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 02-05-2019, 08:36 PM   #2
myfirstyota
3 Yaris and counting..
 
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 672
As mentioned in a recent post, the driveshaft won't clear the subframe when the wheels are pushed down almost 4". The passenger side hits the front control arm bolt. So the quest to lower the subframe begun. I fabricated these spacers from 2.5" square tubing with a 3/16" thick wall. The spacers were then boxed on one side for strength while allowing access to the bolts on the other.

Mocked up:


Welded up:


Primed, ready for paint:


Painted:


As you can see, my welding is getting better lol. However I can only lay about 3/4" of bead before my welder trips the breaker. Need that 240v plug!

The bottom holes of the spacers are large enough to accommodate a 1/2" drive extension. If you insert a socket inside the spacer and attach the extension through the bottom of the spacer, you have a practical way of tightening the bolts going into the body of the car.

Making space for the extension


Pictured below is one of the rear spacers. The holes had to be slightly offset to compensate for the angle in which the subframe mounted is on.


One of the problems with lowering the subframe is that your steering linkage must be lengenthened. Got a spare linkage from the u-pull and gave it the slice and dice.


The welded shaft was strong enough to dry steer the car down the driveway and around the corner but I'm gonna remove it and reinforce it. No point in taking chances here.

Another thing to mention is when the steering shaft is extended, it changes the angle it sits on. Clearancing of the body must be done for the u-joint of the shaft to clear the body.

Also, the steering shaft boot will no longer fit after being lengthened. Gonna have to figure that out still. Probably a larger boot from another vehicle.

So far, the clearancing of the body around the steering shaft and the bit of metal that must be removed from the bottom of the struts are the only things that may not make this kit "bolt-in" in some people's eyes
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Last edited by myfirstyota; 09-21-2019 at 07:10 AM.
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Old 02-06-2019, 08:46 AM   #3
Maritime
 
Drives: 2008 yaris 5dr hatch
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Woodstock nb
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Signing up, the reasons you mention are all the same reasons I am doing mine. Looking forward to see how yours turns out too.

Cheers

Maritime
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Old 02-14-2019, 09:06 AM   #4
Maritime
 
Drives: 2008 yaris 5dr hatch
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how tall are those BTW, looks like about 4" at least.
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Old 02-14-2019, 04:43 PM   #5
myfirstyota
3 Yaris and counting..
 
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 672
The body is 4" is diameter and I'm aiming for 3" to 3.5" tall body after the angles are cut. Once the flanges are added top and bottom, it should stand 3.5-4" total. I didn't abandon the project. Due so some unfortunate and fortunate circumstances, it's just on the back burner. Currently working out of town.
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Old 02-14-2019, 07:43 PM   #6
Maritime
 
Drives: 2008 yaris 5dr hatch
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Posts: 174
Kool. No worries, life happens. Look forward to seeing it when you get time to finish.

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk
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Old 03-07-2019, 08:58 AM   #7
Tskm2
 
Drives: Yaris hatchback 06
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Montreal
Posts: 35
Post picture of cv joint when install! I have in same idea of lifting my 06. If you made spare parts or other give me new!
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Old 03-07-2019, 10:57 AM   #8
myfirstyota
3 Yaris and counting..
 
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 672
That's my only concern. The drivers side cv axle angle. We'll see how that plays out when I finish cutting the pieces for the front lift.

But sorry, no extra parts! Everything has to be made custom so I've only bought and cut what I need. But who knows, one day if I move away from the yaris platform, the kit may be for sale.

The weather is supposed to be warming up later this week and next so I imagine ill be able to get my drill press assembled and start drilling and cutting the pieces. Stay tuned!
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Last edited by myfirstyota; 09-15-2019 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 03-07-2019, 12:15 PM   #9
Maritime
 
Drives: 2008 yaris 5dr hatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstyota View Post
That's my only concern. The passenger cv axle angle. We'll see how that plays out when I finish cutting the pieces for the front lift.

But sorry, no extra parts! Everything has to be made custom so I've only bought and cut what I need. But who knows, one day if I move away from the yaris platform, the kit may be for sale.

The weather is supposed to be warming up later this week and next so I imagine ill be able to get my drill press assembled and start drilling and cutting the pieces. Stay tuned!
Nice, yeah You may need a longer axle shaft but you can likely get an axle rebuilt with a longer shaft pretty cheap if there is a problem. I am hoping to get at mine this weekend as well. Bathroom reno is done and it's going to be warm enough to work with bare hands by sat afternoon.
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Old 03-07-2019, 12:28 PM   #10
myfirstyota
3 Yaris and counting..
 
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 672
Yep. Someone needs to stab old man winter in the face lol. I'm done!

I'm relying on the fact CTScott didn't have to extend any axles with his 4" front lift. I'm most worried about the angle of the shaft. I have a spare set from the swapped car. I will be carrying one on board with all tools needed (which isn't much suprisingly) to swap out in the event of a failure for the first few thousand km.
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Old 03-07-2019, 06:13 PM   #11
Tskm2
 
Drives: Yaris hatchback 06
Join Date: Nov 2018
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After a quick check. To put 4in in back pretty sure you need to move axle backside to recenter wheel in wheel well/arch. Like most 4wd rear independent suspension
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Old 03-08-2019, 08:05 AM   #12
myfirstyota
3 Yaris and counting..
 
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 672
I have scion xD springs in the car now. The oversize wheels I'm running now have less clearance to the rear bumper than they do to the front of the wheel well (body side). I actually had to remove the factory mud flaps to get the tires to fit, that's how close the tire is to the rear bumper. Im hoping that when the axle is pushed down, this will create more even spacing between the front and rear of the wheel arch. If not, I'd rather "make room" for the tires over relocating the rear axle. I think there's less chance of anything going wrong with axle alignment that way. Plus the car has over 300k on it and isnt "mint" by any stretch of the imagination lol. I have no qualms about cutting it up! Lol
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Xd/2zr-fe Swap/Build Thread
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Old 03-08-2019, 08:15 AM   #13
Maritime
 
Drives: 2008 yaris 5dr hatch
Join Date: Apr 2016
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Posts: 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstyota View Post
I have scion xD springs in the car now. The oversize wheels I'm running now have less clearance to the rear bumper than they do to the front of the wheel well (body side). I actually had to remove the factory mud flaps to get the tires to fit, that's how close the tire is to the rear bumper. Im hoping that when the axle is pushed down, this will create more even spacing between the front and rear of the wheel arch. If not, I'd rather "make room" for the tires over relocating the rear axle. I think there's less chance of anything going wrong with axle alignment that way. Plus the car has over 300k on it and isnt "mint" by any stretch of the imagination lol. I have no qualms about cutting it up! Lol
I noticed this as well when playing around with the jacks and measuring clearances, the rear wheels sit more to the back of the well on the rear and when you lift they gain clearance and center more in the arch. I'm hoping to get my lifts in this weekend and test drive. If that goes well I am going to cover an existing wheel with stuff to make it the size of the new tires and check for clearance and compress suspension and steering etc. I also have no issues cutting some parts to make room. 360K and counting on the car.

looking forward to watching your progress.

Cheers,

Maritime
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Old 03-08-2019, 09:06 AM   #14
Tskm2
 
Drives: Yaris hatchback 06
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Post picture when install!
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Old 03-08-2019, 09:32 AM   #15
myfirstyota
3 Yaris and counting..
 
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped
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Posts: 672
For sure!
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Old 03-10-2019, 10:20 AM   #16
myfirstyota
3 Yaris and counting..
 
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped
Join Date: Feb 2016
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Posts: 672
Ok so I got a little cutting/drilling/welding done yesterday. I would have done more but I ran out of flux core wire for the MIG. Picked up some more last night though. It much warmer today although bit soggy. Gonna see if I can free up some space in the garage, do a lil more cutting n welding and possibly test fit one of the rear spacers. Pics to hopefully come later today....
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Old 03-10-2019, 03:41 PM   #17
myfirstyota
3 Yaris and counting..
 
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 672
So I went out to the garage to free up some space and of course... it decides to flood. So...Off to get some hardware for the bolt in part. Got some new contact tips for the MIG welder too. When I can get this done, it will be done.
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:02 PM   #18
myfirstyota
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Posts: 672
Bump for new pics and progress
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