battery light on and off - Toyota Yaris Forums

yariseggvvti · 11-28-2012, 02:16 AM

I got my alternator replace and the battery light on and off. Battery with 100% good. The vehicle running find but the light is on and off. when the light is on kinda blinking dim. Any idea??? Thanks!!

2007 hatch with 72k now. What else I need to check. Ground cable is good.
Autozone alternator is good enough I think. I am going to order one from Toyota. I am going to install it this weekend. Hopefully the solve the problem.

CTScott · 11-28-2012, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yariseggvvti

I got my alternator replace and the battery light on and off. Battery with 100% good. The vehicle running find but the light is on and off. when the light is on kinda blinking dim. Any idea??? Thanks!!

2007 hatch with 72k now. What else I need to check. Ground cable is good.
Autozone alternator is good enough I think. I am going to order one from Toyota. I am going to install it this weekend. Hopefully the solve the problem.

That seems to be a common problem with aftermarket alternators. They don't seem to properly output the signal to the cluster. Have you measured the voltage with the engine running to see what the actual output of the alternator is?

Geoff Peace · 11-28-2012, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yariseggvvti

I got my alternator replace and the battery light on and off. Battery with 100% good. The vehicle running find but the light is on and off. when the light is on kinda blinking dim. Any idea??? Thanks!!

2007 hatch with 72k now. What else I need to check. Ground cable is good.
Autozone alternator is good enough I think. I am going to order one from Toyota. I am going to install it this weekend. Hopefully the solve the problem.

This happens here in the UK with some aftermarket alternators not only on Toyota but other makes as well. If bought from a reputable supplier, usually OK but there seem to be a lot of cheap rebuilds which are not OK. I think the quality of the components used is not up to the mark, particularly the rectifier and regulator. Just one leaking diode will create the problem you describe.

Regards Geoff Peace.

yariseggvvti · 11-29-2012, 01:20 AM

Thanks for you time CTScott and Geoff Peace.

your information helps a bit. I am going to replace OEM Toyota alternator. I hate the light come on the off. It makes me feel annoying. Lucky I purchase the alternator with 28% off the list price. Dont trust any none OEM replacing parts.

yariseggvvti · 12-05-2012, 02:19 AM

Finally got the factory alternator in now. Running fine and no more battery light on and off. Spend little extra money taking care the problem is worth.

CTScott · 12-05-2012, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yariseggvvti

Finally got the factory alternator in now. Running fine and no more battery light on and off. Spend little extra money taking care the problem is worth.

What did you do with the bad one? I'd like to take a look at one of the aftermarket ones to see why the heck they all act this way.

bronsin · 12-05-2012, 07:03 AM

Next time go to the on line junkyard and get an OEM part.with 30k miles on it.

The alternator, water pump, calipers, master cylinder, exhaust system and in fact everything but the MAF and brake pads/shoes on my sons 2000 ECHO with ~180,000 k miles on it are origional.

yariseggvvti · 12-07-2012, 02:51 AM

I return it back to Autozone. I am using it for about two weeks.

JimKellyfan · 12-11-2013, 09:36 AM

Yeah, for alternators, I would check locally to see if you have a rebuilder nearby. Then, take your original and have it rebuilt, or have them install one they rebuilt. With aftermarket quality varying greatly, Napa has been up and down on quality as is with O Reilly's. But never want a pump (power steering/water/any) or (starter/alternator) electrical motor from AZ or ADV. They are mostly junk, hence the lifetime warranty.
The absolute best route is a local rebuilder, we have one in town and they are great.

z0mb13k1ll · 03-21-2014, 09:47 AM

my '07 with 300,000+ km still had the factory alternator on it and after a night at the drive in it started to flicker the battery light. took it to the mechanics and they replaced the battery and said it was fixed (even tho i said to them it was the alternator) and so of course i went back a week later with the same problem and a destroyed brand new battery. so got the alternator replaced and another new battery (for free).

still no idea what caused it, but it has worked fine for several months now

Bluevitz-rs · 03-21-2014, 10:09 AM

I'm thinking, if there's corrosion or a loose connector on the feedback wire to the alternator regulator, it might be reading the voltage as being too low and making the alternator put out maximum output.

I'd have to look at how the regulator works again in my EWD.

CTScott · 03-21-2014, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

I'm thinking, if there's corrosion or a loose connector on the feedback wire to the alternator regulator, it might be reading the voltage as being too low and making the alternator put out maximum output.

I'd have to look at how the regulator works again in my EWD.

The white wire on the alternator connector is the feedback wire to the voltage regulator. There should be battery voltage on that pin with the engine not running.

Miryai · 03-23-2014, 02:50 AM

I purchased a volt meter. It was $5 including shipping and handling, and you never know, it might be useful for one of my house mate's cars later. But once I have it, I'm gonna plug it in and run, see if I can manage to look at it when the issue is happening. But all I know, is that it's starting to occur a lot more frequently. It's happening more and staying on longer, than when it looks like everything is fine.

Miryai · 03-30-2014, 02:28 AM

Since, I hate when no one updates their problem. Voltmeter came in today. My car idles at the high 13's to low 14's. That doesn't seem to be too bad, but when the battery light comes on, it skyrockets to at least 17. I think the highest I saw was 18.3, but according to my mechanics the alternator is fine (I doubt it.). Taking it to the mechanic on Monday and telling them, and seeing if they fix it....if not, I guess I declare my car a lemon since I've replaced this damn thing four separate times already.

CTScott · 03-30-2014, 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miryai

Since, I hate when no one updates their problem. Voltmeter came in today. My car idles at the high 13's to low 14's. That doesn't seem to be too bad, but when the battery light comes on, it skyrockets to at least 17. I think the highest I saw was 18.3, but according to my mechanics the alternator is fine (I doubt it.). Taking it to the mechanic on Monday and telling them, and seeing if they fix it....if not, I guess I declare my car a lemon since I've replaced this damn thing four separate times already.

Now that you have the meter, with the engine off, check the voltage on the white pin of the alternator connector.

Bluevitz-rs · 03-30-2014, 07:15 AM

For what it's worth, wiggle that connector first too and see if that fixes the problem. Also after you unplug it, have a look inside for any green corrosion. There's also a chance the pin isn't tight enough.

Sent from my iPod Touch

nortonfb · 05-01-2014, 09:40 AM

I removed all the connectors and cleaned.
Where I work they have a tester
The results are:
Battery V 12.72, 618cca, rating 575cca
Starter test 11.25v
Charging test v 13.94
I still have a glowing bright red battery light, I feel so cheap..
I'm hoping that this maybe humidity related & once we dry out it will go away.
Steve

CTScott · 05-01-2014, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nortonfb

I removed all the connectors and cleaned.
Where I work they have a tester
The results are:
Battery V 12.72, 618cca, rating 575cca
Starter test 11.25v
Charging test v 13.94
I still have a glowing bright red battery light, I feel so cheap..
I'm hoping that this maybe humidity related & once we dry out it will go away.
Steve

Your getting good readings. Is your alternator the original one or a replacement?

11-28-2012, 02:16 AM	#1
yariseggvvti Drives: Yaris Hatchieback Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cali Posts: 199	battery light on and off I got my alternator replace and the battery light on and off. Battery with 100% good. The vehicle running find but the light is on and off. when the light is on kinda blinking dim. Any idea??? Thanks!! 2007 hatch with 72k now. What else I need to check. Ground cable is good. Autozone alternator is good enough I think. I am going to order one from Toyota. I am going to install it this weekend. Hopefully the solve the problem. Last edited by yariseggvvti; 11-28-2012 at 02:27 AM.

12-05-2012, 07:03 AM	#7
bronsin Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: nj Posts: 4,783	Next time go to the on line junkyard and get an OEM part.with 30k miles on it. The alternator, water pump, calipers, master cylinder, exhaust system and in fact everything but the MAF and brake pads/shoes on my sons 2000 ECHO with ~180,000 k miles on it are origional. __________________ Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head

12-11-2013, 09:36 AM	#9
JimKellyfan Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: the good Carolina Posts: 173	Yeah, for alternators, I would check locally to see if you have a rebuilder nearby. Then, take your original and have it rebuilt, or have them install one they rebuilt. With aftermarket quality varying greatly, Napa has been up and down on quality as is with O Reilly's. But never want a pump (power steering/water/any) or (starter/alternator) electrical motor from AZ or ADV. They are mostly junk, hence the lifetime warranty. The absolute best route is a local rebuilder, we have one in town and they are great. __________________ 2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]

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11-29-2012, 01:20 AM	#4
yariseggvvti Drives: Yaris Hatchieback Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cali Posts: 199	Thanks for you time CTScott and Geoff Peace. your information helps a bit. I am going to replace OEM Toyota alternator. I hate the light come on the off. It makes me feel annoying. Lucky I purchase the alternator with 28% off the list price. Dont trust any none OEM replacing parts.

12-05-2012, 02:19 AM	#5
yariseggvvti Drives: Yaris Hatchieback Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cali Posts: 199	Finally got the factory alternator in now. Running fine and no more battery light on and off. Spend little extra money taking care the problem is worth.

12-07-2012, 02:51 AM	#8
yariseggvvti Drives: Yaris Hatchieback Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cali Posts: 199	I return it back to Autozone. I am using it for about two weeks.

03-21-2014, 09:47 AM	#10
z0mb13k1ll View User's Garage Drives: '15 Dodge Challenger Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Grimsby, Ontario Posts: 44	my '07 with 300,000+ km still had the factory alternator on it and after a night at the drive in it started to flicker the battery light. took it to the mechanics and they replaced the battery and said it was fixed (even tho i said to them it was the alternator) and so of course i went back a week later with the same problem and a destroyed brand new battery. so got the alternator replaced and another new battery (for free). still no idea what caused it, but it has worked fine for several months now

03-21-2014, 10:09 AM	#11
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	I'm thinking, if there's corrosion or a loose connector on the feedback wire to the alternator regulator, it might be reading the voltage as being too low and making the alternator put out maximum output. I'd have to look at how the regulator works again in my EWD.

03-23-2014, 02:50 AM	#13
Miryai Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris HB Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 4	I purchased a volt meter. It was $5 including shipping and handling, and you never know, it might be useful for one of my house mate's cars later. But once I have it, I'm gonna plug it in and run, see if I can manage to look at it when the issue is happening. But all I know, is that it's starting to occur a lot more frequently. It's happening more and staying on longer, than when it looks like everything is fine.

03-30-2014, 02:28 AM	#14
Miryai Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris HB Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 4	Since, I hate when no one updates their problem. Voltmeter came in today. My car idles at the high 13's to low 14's. That doesn't seem to be too bad, but when the battery light comes on, it skyrockets to at least 17. I think the highest I saw was 18.3, but according to my mechanics the alternator is fine (I doubt it.). Taking it to the mechanic on Monday and telling them, and seeing if they fix it....if not, I guess I declare my car a lemon since I've replaced this damn thing four separate times already.

03-30-2014, 07:15 AM	#16
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	For what it's worth, wiggle that connector first too and see if that fixes the problem. Also after you unplug it, have a look inside for any green corrosion. There's also a chance the pin isn't tight enough. Sent from my iPod Touch

05-01-2014, 09:40 AM	#17
nortonfb Drives: 2007 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: motown Posts: 339	I removed all the connectors and cleaned. Where I work they have a tester The results are: Battery V 12.72, 618cca, rating 575cca Starter test 11.25v Charging test v 13.94 I still have a glowing bright red battery light, I feel so cheap.. I'm hoping that this maybe humidity related & once we dry out it will go away. Steve