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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Living vicariously through others. Nice.
I only cut off about 1/4" of that bolt, but even that gave me more than enough room. The really annoying part was removing those two black frame pieces... It was nearly impossible to get a socket on them and give them enough torque to get em moving. |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 BB LB Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Maiden, NC
Posts: 785
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Lol I have no life right now. No job and waiting for school to kick back up.
Boredom ftl
__________________
Too much of car culture is people taking things too seriously and not enjoying it for what it is. |
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Waiting for school to start back up is never a good thing.
![]() I'm glad I'm keeping you entertained lol. Expect a solid 8 hours of work (and pictures) on this on Sunday. |
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#4 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 BB LB Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Maiden, NC
Posts: 785
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Quote:
And I do enjoy your thread. You, pimp_my_yaris and cdydjded are an inspiration.
__________________
Too much of car culture is people taking things too seriously and not enjoying it for what it is. |
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Exactly as I thought, but the iron cast appears to becoming iron oxide. I don't think it's an issue at the moment, but I'm worried it'll spread. I was thinking about it too and it would probably get like this anyway once the exhaust is run through it for long enough. I'll post a picture later.
Unbelievably, one of my flange nuts snapped as well. It's still threaded for the most part, so I'm probably going to leave it and loosen all the others slightly. Clearly today was a bad day to work on it, so I canned it for now.
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#6 |
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Bathroom + Laptop = <3
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Yeah man today was a bad day to wrench in New England, rain sucked. went to harbor freight thats 10 miles down the road, legit took 4 hours to get everything and get out, and i still didn't get this dirtbike were playing with started.
Anyways, it may oxidize a bit, but you will be fine as long as nothing got into the engine itself that is. There will always be moisture back there somehow sometimes someway so it is bound to happen wether you put water on it or not unless you coat it with ceramic coating. Have you ever seen a manifold stay perfect looking?
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Day 4
Alright guys, I'm so close... But I'm soooo beat. EVERYTHING is installed. At this point I'm waiting for the sealant on the Zage oil pan to dry so I can put my oil back in. Yeah, I decided to use it afterall. To start, here's a picture of the cast iron rusting ![]() Started the day off trying to mount the intercooler. Whipped up these brackets. ![]() Couldn't drill through the bumper support, so I gave up for the time being. That steel is THICK. Started working on the oil feed and return. ![]() ![]() I got the pan off, then for whatever reason decided to use the Zage oil pan afterall. The comments I made about it's design still stand, and I pray it works. Firstly, here's some pictures of it. ![]() ![]() But instead of just putting it on, I brainstormed how to guarantee there wouldn't be an problems. I basically did two things that will hopefully allow gravity to constantly return oil. I made sure the elbow angle didn't go any lower than what's seen here. ![]() Then I made a cut in the engine block to allow for a slightly more diagonal orientation of the return line, other than the horizontal way the line would have ran. ![]() ![]() I poured some oil in after the pan was installed, but it leaked everywhere. I used silicon sealant to seal all bolts and the edges of the pan. Oh and a quick aside, here's one of the impossible to reach manifold bolts. ![]() I finally was able to get an open wrench on it (barely) to get it somewhat tight. There was no way it was happening from the top of the car. Ok so once the pan was done I worked on installing the bypass line for the BOV. ![]() That was easy peesy. The coolant lines sucked (and so do these pictures). ![]() ![]() ![]() Installed the air filter and MAF last. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Reinstalled AC lines so they're not just floating around. Also, here's a picture of my sweet zip tie hanger for the O2 sensor wires. ![]() Finished the day off by pulling the spark plugs and EFI fuse. ![]() ![]() So weather permitting, tuning day will either be tomorrow or Wednesday. Assuming there's no leaks when I re-add the oil, I'll crank the starter and look for oil leaks in pressurized areas. Then I'll pull the oil return real quick to make sure oil is present. Finally I'll start the engine and look for any and all air leaks (plan to get a video of that moment ).
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