AMSOIL vs Royal Purple

[TheSilkySmooth]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

Mobil 1 has changed their formula, which is why a bunch of people stopped using them. Nonetheless, it is still synthetic, which is better than dino-oil.

No it is not MAybe only M1-EP and there is no confirmation on this. AND you DO NOT WANT A PAO synthetic for warm climate use - it has POOR lubricating ability - just good flow. NOT the tradeoff you want. And ALL ILSAC/API SM pec oils are marginal at best. You need a AECA A3/B3. Porsche pulled M1 from factory fill as it would NOT stay in grade and SM has reduced the wear additives to save a catalytic converter for 150K miles. Wow, a blown engine and good catalytic converter in 3 years? Screw this compromise - talk about Scylla et Charybdis GOOD oils are: ELF Excellium, FUCHs,Silkolene, MOTUL 300V. NOT M1, Pennziol, Valvoline or what a joke castrol ( BP) A FAKE synthetic that started all this: Gee, it;s OK to call a "mineral oil" a synthetic - screw Jon Q Pubic - he's a dumbass anyhow.

- Sonja's bro

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

No it is not MAybe only M1-EP and there is no confirmation on this. AND you DO NOT WANT A PAO synthetic for warm climate use - it has POOR lubricating ability - just good flow. NOT the tradeoff you want. And ALL ILSAC/API SM pec oils are marginal at best. You need a AECA A3/B3. Porsche pulled M1 from factory fill as it would NOT stay in grade and SM has reduced the wear additives to save a catalytic converter for 150K miles. Wow, a blown engine and good catalytic converter in 3 years? Screw this compromise - talk about Scylla et Charybdis GOOD oils are: ELF Excellium, FUCHs,Silkolene, MOTUL 300V. NOT M1, Pennziol, Valvoline or what a joke castrol ( BP) A FAKE synthetic that started all this: Gee, it;s OK to call a "mineral oil" a synthetic - screw Jon Q Pubic - he's a dumbass anyhow.

- Sonja's bro

That's why I switched to Amsoil HP (AECA A5/B5) for less than I'd have to pay for Mobil1, RP, RedLine, LubroMoly, MOTUL, etc...and I'm not sure which or if any of them are rated A5/B5.

Yeah, it's just a Yaris, but it'll probably outlast anything that I've ever owned.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Originally Posted by 1stToyota

That's why I switched to Amsoil HP (AECA A5/B5) for less than I'd have to pay for Mobil1, RP, RedLine, LubroMoly, MOTUL, etc...and I'm not sure which or if any of them are rated A5/B5.

Yeah, it's just a Yaris, but it'll probably outlast anything that I've ever owned.

1st - I have not been to Pep Boys - do they sell any synth amsoils there? Or just the Mineral group 2i and 3? my local garage has amsoil but only if they do OC and big $$ at that. Otherwize most (virtual) local motorsports retailers carry a couple good bransd of oil. Someone said LTB motorsports?

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

1st - I have not been to Pep Boys - do they sell any synth amsoils there? Or just the Mineral group 2i and 3? my local garage has amsoil but only if they do OC and big $$ at that. Otherwize most (virtual) local motorsports retailers carry a couple good bransd of oil. Someone said LTB motorsports?

I just pick up the Amsoil at a warehouse that's on my way to work.

[SilverGlow]

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

No it is not MAybe only M1-EP and there is no confirmation on this. AND you DO NOT WANT A PAO synthetic for warm climate use - it has POOR lubricating ability - just good flow. NOT the tradeoff you want. And ALL ILSAC/API SM pec oils are marginal at best. You need a AECA A3/B3. Porsche pulled M1 from factory fill as it would NOT stay in grade and SM has reduced the wear additives to save a catalytic converter for 150K miles. Wow, a blown engine and good catalytic converter in 3 years? Screw this compromise - talk about Scylla et Charybdis GOOD oils are: ELF Excellium, FUCHs,Silkolene, MOTUL 300V. NOT M1, Pennziol, Valvoline or what a joke castrol ( BP) A FAKE synthetic that started all this: Gee, it;s OK to call a "mineral oil" a synthetic - screw Jon Q Pubic - he's a dumbass anyhow.

- Sonja's bro

Your claims have no bases in fact. None.

In addition, the thousands of UOA's with M1 and Pennziol Plat say you are dead wrong. The wear metals are super duper low, and often not much higher then AMSOIL, which is perhaps the best one can buy.

And NOBODY has ever had a blown engine using M1.

It is your type that propagates internet myths and urban legends...you turn your subjective opinions into "fact", and I just hope most of the readers of this thread see this.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

Your claims have no bases in fact. None.

In addition, the thousands of UOA's with M1 and Pennziol Plat say you are dead wrong. The wear metals are super duper low, and often not much higher then AMSOIL, which is perhaps the best one can buy.

And NOBODY has ever had a blown engine using M1.

It is your type that propagates internet myths and urban legends...you turn your subjective opinions into "fact", and I just hope most of the readers of this thread see this.

Oh, thats just what you did propagate myths with no factual information. EG: "NO one has ever blown a motor on M1" Just simple statistics will tell you this statement is WRONG and I personally know 3 people who junked their motors on m1. Thats why GM and Porsche ditched m1 as factory fill - since it works so freaking good. Blame the API and the Feds though, they are the ones who reduced/removed the PROVEN extreme pressure anti-seize additive package so cats would live 150K miles without clogging at the expense piston and cam wear. Just go talk to the mechanic who have blown motors laying outside the dealership about chewed up cams and pistons with scored and collapsed skirts. Subaru, Mitsi, Chevy have MAJOR problems with piston slap now - but good statistical data is "covered up" because the industry is trying to deal with the issue "quietly", If you dig enough you will find API powerpoints online thats show you whats going on. If you run current spec "emissions" SM oil in a classic engine it will be all done in a few thousand miles - check resto sites - the mechanics are frantic. Run it in a VW Audi Porsche and you void the warranty. Good stuff, huh?

And you are a Mobil rep too right? - the MAN ... the MAn in Brown?

Every runs their favorite team so nothing I say will change that. Live and learn the hard way guys.

sonjas bro

[SilverGlow]

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

Oh, thats just what you did propagate myths with no factual information. EG: "NO one has ever blown a motor on M1" Just simple statistics will tell you this statement is WRONG and I personally know 3 people who junked their motors on m1. Thats why GM and Porsche ditched m1 as factory fill - since it works so freaking good. Blame the API and the Feds though, they are the ones who reduced/removed the PROVEN extreme pressure anti-seize additive package so cats would live 150K miles without clogging at the expense piston and cam wear. Just go talk to the mechanic who have blown motors laying outside the dealership about chewed up cams and pistons with scored and collapsed skirts. Subaru, Mitsi, Chevy have MAJOR problems with piston slap now - but good statistical data is "covered up" because the industry is trying to deal with the issue "quietly", If you dig enough you will find API powerpoints online thats show you whats going on. If you run current spec "emissions" SM oil in a classic engine it will be all done in a few thousand miles - check resto sites - the mechanics are frantic. Run it in a VW Audi Porsche and you void the warranty. Good stuff, huh?

And you are a Mobil rep too right? - the MAN ... the MAn in Brown?

Every runs their favorite team so nothing I say will change that. Live and learn the hard way guys.

sonjas bro

I just forwarded your lies to Pennzoil legal department, same for Mobil Oil. Now lets see you show your "proof" because you are damaging their reputation with no credible facts.

And no, I don't work for any oil company. I actually use Walmart's SuperTech cheapo full synthetic...

You better get a lawyer fast. I saved the cache of this thread too.

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

I just forwarded your lies to Pennzoil legal department, same for Mobil Oil. Now lets see you show your "proof" because you are damaging their reputation with no credible facts.

And no, I don't work for any oil company. I actually use Walmart's SuperTech cheapo full synthetic...

You better get a lawyer fast. I saved the cache of this thread too.

You do realize that the new SM rating was created to replace the old SL rating that contained too much friction modifiers ...wow, protect those cats...[pause]...with a reduction in those engine friendly friction modifiers!!

I may be wrong, but I believe that's the point being made by thesilkysmooth, which is btw based on fact.

ps You're not STILL using 0w-20 in your 1NZ-FE Yaris, or are you? Probably voiding your warranty since you chose to ignore Toyota's TSB.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

I just forwarded your lies to Pennzoil legal department, same for Mobil Oil. Now lets see you show your "proof" because you are damaging their reputation with no credible facts.

And no, I don't work for any oil company. I actually use Walmart's SuperTech cheapo full synthetic...

You better get a lawyer fast. I saved the cache of this thread too.

Silver -
Ha ha funny! You are a little worm and will be vapourised very soon - MODERATORS - get rid of this pecky mosquito. He is violating terms of agreement.

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

And NOBODY has ever had a blown engine using M1.

It is your type that propagates internet myths and urban legends...you turn your subjective opinions into "fact", and I just hope most of the readers of this thread see this.

Wrong. Installed a new motor for a guy that had a blown motor in his chevy p/u; he used M1 on every single OC.

[SilverGlow]

Originally Posted by 1stToyota

Wrong. Installed a new motor for a guy that had a blown motor in his chevy p/u; he used M1 on every single OC.

That is not proof! Did you attend college? You have yet to show any proof that the blown engine was caused by Mobil1. You like to spew macho automotive lies. Lets hope the readers of this thread see past your bravado bunk...

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

That is not proof! Did you attend college? You have yet to show any proof that the blown engine was caused by Mobil1. You like to spew macho automotive lies. Lets hope the readers of this thread see past your bravado bunk...

Troll, the engine damage was oil related, and he used Mobil1, that's all I know about the customer and what the engine rebuilder claimed about the core.