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Old 09-24-2009, 07:56 PM   #1
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hanging and taping drywall => fine, annoying film of dust all over the place for months to come !
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Old 10-01-2009, 06:43 PM   #2
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CTScott,

I hope you realize that when Crashy's rebirth is complete, you'll have to go on a world tour to showcase your talents and Crashy's new style.

S.R.
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Old 10-01-2009, 11:29 PM   #3
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http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_1...0070926x00003a

Wonder if you could hack that up and weld the frame into the rear. 80 bucks, but only like 20"X40"X10". Unless you want hydraulics (which you should lol).
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Old 10-02-2009, 12:41 AM   #4
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I Crashy.....
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:06 PM   #5
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I Crashy.....
+1
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Old 10-02-2009, 12:48 AM   #6
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http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_1...0070926x00003a

Wonder if you could hack that up and weld the frame into the rear. 80 bucks, but only like 20"X40"X10". Unless you want hydraulics (which you should lol).
It's the right idea, but I would like it to be as big as possible. 40" x 60" would fit between the wheel wells and from behind the front seats to the rear bumper. Plastic would be a big plus for keeping the weight down.

Definitely need hydraulic dumping, even if it is manually pumped (i.e. $20 bottle jack).
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:30 PM   #7
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It's the right idea, but I would like it to be as big as possible. 40" x 60" would fit between the wheel wells and from behind the front seats to the rear bumper. Plastic would be a big plus for keeping the weight down.

Definitely need hydraulic dumping, even if it is manually pumped (i.e. $20 bottle jack).
...so goodbye roof? Or would it not need to be raised that high?
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:51 PM   #8
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...so goodbye roof? Or would it not need to be raised that high?
Roof's definitely getting clipped off. The outer pipes of the roll cage will follow the original lines from the bottom of the A pillars to the bottom of the C pillars. Cross pipes will go across the top of the non-existent windshield and in place of the B pillars. I want to keep the shape of the Yaris, but if I leave off the rear cross at the top of the hatch, I'll have plenty of clearance for the dump bed to lift.

I figure I can put a bimini top between the windshield bar and the B pillar bar to keep me dry if I'm plowing while it's raining or snowing.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:59 PM   #9
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Any crashy updates, pics?
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:52 PM   #10
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Any crashy updates, pics?
No new pics, but I ordered my steel on Friday for the plow frame, roll cage, and brush guard. Next weekend is going to be a serious welding weekend.
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:38 PM   #11
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No new pics, but I ordered my steel on Friday for the plow frame, roll cage, and brush guard. Next weekend is going to be a serious welding weekend.
don't get a welding sunburn! good luck :)
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:49 PM   #12
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don't get a welding sunburn! good luck :)
I learned my lesson on that one. When i built my trailer I made the mistake of wearing a tshirt and welding gloves while stick welding 1/4 steel at 200 Amps. I ended up glowing red from 4" below my elbow to 4" above.
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:54 PM   #13
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:50 PM   #14
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No new pics, but I ordered my steel on Friday for the plow frame, roll cage, and brush guard. Next weekend is going to be a serious welding weekend.
Right on!! We all wish we could be there to watch you work on Crashy

Be careful!
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Old 11-02-2009, 12:48 AM   #15
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wow, you can really get "sunburned" from a welding torch? I didn't know that!
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:44 AM   #16
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wow, you can really get "sunburned" from a welding torch? I didn't know that!
Well technically your not being burned by the sun, it's the white flame that's doing the damage.
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:13 AM   #17
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Well technically your not being burned by the sun, it's the white flame that's doing the damage.
And, it's actually UV generated from the arc that burns your skin, like the sun or a tanning booth.
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:22 PM   #18
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I picked up a load of steel today - 2" square tubing for the plow frame and SAE 4130 1.500 x.095 tubing for the roll cage. It's going to be a weekend of molten metal for Crashy.
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