How to hot wire the Yaris

[Nebarnix]

Originally Posted by CTScott

You can monitor the yellow wire on 2 pin connector on the side of the keyswitch assembly. It is the key sense wire and it goes to ground when the key is inserted.

Remote starters actually watch the brake to turn off. You have to turn the key to the one position before pressing the brake, otherwise the car shuts off. The brake is also the safety, as pressing it immediately kills the running car.

Sorry to keep bugging you and thank you for the information. Its perfect. I have one last question. On the DIY remote start wiring guide, the brake switching is listed as being on top of the brake pedal. Is that underneath the car or by the pedals?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Nebarnix

Sorry to keep bugging you and thank you for the information. Its perfect. I have one last question. On the DIY remote start wiring guide, the brake switching is listed as being on top of the brake pedal. Is that underneath the car or by the pedals?

By the pedals. Right at the top of the brake pedal.

[Nebarnix]

Originally Posted by CTScott

By the pedals. Right at the top of the brake pedal.

Ok, I see the wires. But there are 5 wires (not sure why, maybe tail lights?). Do you know which wire is connected to the switch and if it is a make/break or a pull high/low type of signal?

Thanks! Remote lock / unlock with the EZ-430 chronos is so freakin great, I even have it doing the double pulse to unlock all doors with one command. I feel like James Bond (it helps that the watch beeps as I activate the locks)

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Nebarnix

Ok, I see the wires. But there are 5 wires (not sure why, maybe tail lights?). Do you know which wire is connected to the switch and if it is a make/break or a pull high/low type of signal?

Thanks! Remote lock / unlock with the EZ-430 chronos is so freakin great, I even have it doing the double pulse to unlock all doors with one command. I feel like James Bond (it helps that the watch beeps as I activate the locks)

On that connector, Green gets pulled to 12V when the pedal is pressed.

[Nebarnix]

CTScott, I am sending the final boards out to the fab in the next week or so. I will have a low power in-car wireless sensor network using 2.5Ghz 3mW nodes and a high power car to wrist watch / car to house PC using a 915Mhz 500mW link which can act as a gateway to the low power network as well as remote start and door lock unlock. The neat thing is that the low power wireless node can be used to implement additional functions in the future.

I have one question which would really simplify my design. Can IGN1 and IGN2 be tied together permanently? This would take my number of outputs from 9 to 8 which you can understand is a desirable number :)

Outputs
1 clutch sw bypass
2 ign1 / ign2
3 accessory
4 starter
5 lock
6 unlock
7 horn
8 lights

Thanks!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Nebarnix

CTScott, I am sending the final boards out to the fab in the next week or so. I will have a low power in-car wireless sensor network using 2.5Ghz 3mW nodes and a high power car to wrist watch / car to house PC using a 915Mhz 500mW link which can act as a gateway to the low power network as well as remote start and door lock unlock. The neat thing is that the low power wireless node can be used to implement additional functions in the future.

I have one question which would really simplify my design. Can IGN1 and IGN2 be tied together permanently? This would take my number of outputs from 9 to 8 which you can understand is a desirable number :)

Outputs
1 clutch sw bypass
2 ign1 / ign2
3 accessory
4 starter
5 lock
6 unlock
7 horn
8 lights

Thanks!

IG1 and IG2 are part of two separate circuits with two different sized fuses, so I wouldn't tie them together.

[Nebarnix]

Turns out you are quite right about tying them together. bad idea.

I have found the wiring guide and gone through the schematics. It turns out that the ACC wire carries the full 30A through the key switch and is the only signal that does not trigger a relay. See pg 68-70 in the wiring guide.

I have started a page which outlines both the open universal remote start system as well as details for which wire turns on which systems.

http://wiki.nebarnix.com/wiki/Yaris_Remote_Start

So to hot wire you would
#1 Pull IG1 to 12V (and keep it there)
#2 Pull IG2 to 12V (and keep it there)
#3 Pull Starter to 12V and drop once the engine is started.

You could pull ACC to 12V as well (there is a built-in cutoff relay during cranking) but not only is it not neccesary, but you might see sparks as the circuit could pass the full 30A, though most likely it would just pass the radio current.

Thanks for all the help CTScott! I can't wait to get the boards populated and see how well it works.

Originally Posted by CTScott

IG1 and IG2 are part of two separate circuits with two different sized fuses, so I wouldn't tie them together.