NCP90 Rear Drum to Disc swap

[remcafee]

it is common that when switching the rear acle mount position, if you have a street setup with somewhat soft springs, you will hit the gas tabk going over bumps, the trd springs are fairly soft and just keep an eye on wear on your gas tank over time, only way to avoid is go sloe over bumps or get stiffer springs

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by remcafee

it is common that when switching the rear acle mount position, if you have a street setup with somewhat soft springs, you will hit the gas tabk going over bumps, the trd springs are fairly soft and just keep an eye on wear on your gas tank over time, only way to avoid is go sloe over bumps or get stiffer springs

Could put a layer of stick on rubber there or something i guess?

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by remcafee

it is common that when switching the rear acle mount position, if you have a street setup with somewhat soft springs, you will hit the gas tabk going over bumps, the trd springs are fairly soft and just keep an eye on wear on your gas tank over time, only way to avoid is go sloe over bumps or get stiffer springs

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before.


Yes those are contact marks above the brake hose on the chassis rail.

Originally Posted by enviri

just look out for rear beam slapping your chassis over time once its all settled now that you swapped bolt positions, and you are good to go

I will be going back to the normal lower suspension mount holes. This is not a safe mod at all. a larger than normal bump in the road will crush the brake hose or severe it.

This is 100% a MOTORSPORT ONLY modification that requires relocation of your brake lines.

Just thinking about this the upper hole is not on there for motorsport, toyota would never do that this is for the 1.3 litre 4wd vitz, it has a rear diff and drive shaft that needs to clear the rear subframe and has a different rear subframe again to the RS/base along with a different fuel tank. The 4wd are always automatic 1.3 litre 4 speed auto and kinda rare.

No more recommending this to people everyone.

Edit: the 4wd vitz are 2nz-fe not the 1sz-fe.

[enviri]

Originally Posted by Compeer

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before.

I will be going back to the normal lower suspension mount holes. This is not a safe mod at all. a larger than normal bump in the road will crush the brake hose or severe it.

This is 100% a MOTORSPORT ONLY modification that requires relocation of your brake lines.

No more recommending this to people everyone.

a man of reason. good stuff. I didnt like swapping mount holes either. I already fear the rust monster, and I dont want another thing to fear. 11+ years and still going strong since rear disc swap!

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by enviri

a man of reason. good stuff. I didnt like swapping mount holes either. I already fear the rust monster, and I dont want another thing to fear. 11+ years and still going strong since rear disc swap!

haha right me too even with my body in such good shape, I still am anti rusting anything that looks remotely like it might start to rust

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by Compeer

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before.

I haven't been here for a bit. Hmmm... Thanks for pointing it out... I'm currently on work travel, I'll check mine out when I get home.

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by Neinris

I haven't been here for a bit. Hmmm... Thanks for pointing it out... I'm currently on work travel, I'll check mine out when I get home.

Yes...there have been some developments Bit of hard driving produced some unwanted results lol

Also Im slowly ticking off the things needed for some light autoX racing in the future and on the list was the brake pads and rotors.

The brake upgrade came with spme unknown chinese brand "CAC" brake pads and had some rust spots and scratches on the braking surface even after some heavy footed stops and lively driving through the windys for 6 hours and I don't pad slap and so the rotors are at the brake shop getting machined and I have ordered some Bosch pads.

I still get a staff discount at one of the part stores and so thats what pushed me towards the Bosch Blue pads at $117 front and rear versus Toyota which was $267 front and rear.

What type of brake pads do you guys run? and what have you used for competition racing?

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by Compeer

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before...

BTW, I checked and my brake line bracket also hits. I will be relocating my brake line brackets.

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by Neinris

BTW, I checked and my brake line bracket also hits. I will be relocating my brake line brackets.

I looked at it but the brake line doesnt have much room and still goes over the top of it and the brake line was a bit tight when I shoved it down that side to see how it would fit, I think you need a 2-3cm longer hose?

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by Compeer

I looked at it but the brake line doesnt have much room and still goes over the top of it and the brake line was a bit tight when I shoved it down that side to see how it would fit, I think you need a 2-3cm longer hose?

As you already know, my disc brake conversion is underway. I already have all the hardware necessary to complete the conversion, minus the materials for the brackets. But I'm looking into replacing the brake line from the hard line under the chassis to the caliper with one rubber hose, instead of transitioning from hardline to rubber hose, to hardline, to rubber hose connected to the caliper. This could give me the opportunity to reroute them, and just remove the brackets that hits the frame.

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by Neinris

As you already know, my disc brake conversion is underway. I already have all the hardware necessary to complete the conversion, minus the materials for the brackets. But I'm looking into replacing the brake line from the hard line under the chassis to the caliper with one rubber hose, instead of transitioning from hardline to rubber hose, to hardline, to rubber hose connected to the caliper. This could give me the opportunity to reroute them, and just remove the brackets that hits the frame.

I think like Short says it needs the new hard brake line made up, I think it would be easier, just move the bracket on each side and have a new line made at a brake shop should not cost to much.

[sh0rtlife]

Originally Posted by Compeer

I think like Short says it needs the new hard brake line made up, I think it would be easier, just move the bracket on each side and have a new line made at a brake shop should not cost to much.

again FWIW making hardlines is EASY and dirt cheep, even easier if you have the OE fittings cut from an old set of lines..at that point all you need is the right length of line and a a lil time with a flair tool....ive made countless amounts of line over the years, get a cheep flair tool and a few feet of line cut the ends off and flair repeate till you understand what your doing..after that making your line will take only a few moments