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Old 07-04-2018, 02:27 PM   #451
Whiplash
 
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Old 07-04-2018, 03:52 PM   #452
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Post.
exactly
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Old 07-05-2018, 07:30 AM   #453
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I have some reading to do.
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Old 05-01-2019, 09:38 PM   #454
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bumping up an old thread. I was installing some subframe collars today and pulled my control arm bolts I replace 3-4 years ago. I hadn't pulled them since 3 or so years ago. Well they look brand new with zero rust on them. All I did was coat the thread and the neck of the bolt in anti seize and then coat the neck in marine grade grease. The grease squeezes out when you tighten the bolts back up but that stuff is sticky and keep the water that pools in the area from contacting the metal.

apparently this is a great method of keeping the rust away.


this is after it was wiped off, it was crazy dirty.

Torque spec on the bolt is 118 ft/lbs

*take note* the bolt neck is what corrodes and snaps off so anti seize on the threads is a good idea for corrosion resistance but it will not fix the underlying rust issue with these bolts. Coat the bolt neck in marine great which is sticky as heck and will not allow water to sit against the metal and corrode it
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Last edited by tmontague; 05-02-2019 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 05-02-2019, 02:46 AM   #455
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Ah, thanks for reviving this thread. It reminds me that I need to check it on mine as well.
I have no idea whether my car can have this problem or not (VIN code: VNKKL98310A....) So it seems I have to go for visual inspection.
Local winters are salty so I may have some issue with this.
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Old 10-18-2019, 09:03 PM   #456
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Smile Squeaking Lower Control Arm - FIXED!

Hello Everybody,

I just got these two bolts replaced (TOYOTA Part #: 90119-14126) after dealing for some time now with a squeaking noise coming from the front suspension of my Toyota Yaris 2008 (Hatchback) while driving over a speed bump or an uneven surface.

I just came back home after driving it for 10 minutes around the neighborhood and the problem seems to be gone! :)

Tip: Before screwing the new bolts in, I submerged them in heavy duty grease to keep water and rust away for as long as possible.

I hope it helps all Yaris Owners out there!
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Old 02-11-2020, 05:01 PM   #457
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Drives: 2009 Yaris LE 5 dr
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I'll add a bit to this old thread...

I will add a bit of a curve ball to the front end issues with the Yaris.. it could be MORE than just the LCA bolts..

I have a 2009 Yaris HB 4dr LE with 180000 km (about 115000 miles).. almost exclusively highway and a 3 season vehicle. In the dead of a Manitoba/NW Ontario winter we drive a 2010 F--d Escape AWD.

In Oct, just before the Hamster (name we gave the Yaris) went into the garage for the winter I noted a constant clunking coming from the left front when going down gravel roads (I'm in central Canukistan..gravel IS considered an acceptable highway material and often better than asphalt).

After much checking I concluded (incorrectly) that it was the left inner tie rod end since grabbing the tie rod and yanking would get some movement ...so I bought a new inner TR end and the tool to remove/install it... In mid November (in the garage) I started work and found that it wasn't the inner TR, instead the drivers side mount for the steering rack had corroded and broken off, leaving the entire rack supported only by the pass side mount.

These are long 11mm (shaft dia) with a 17mm head (top) and 17mm nut on the bottom of the car.

The DS nut was hanging by dirt and rust and the whole rack would move with a small push/pull.... I was PI--ED OFF knowing it could have killed me at anytime and couldn't figure out what was up.

I unhooked the tie rods and the steering column then TRIED to remove the broken bolt from the D Side of the rack ....

well it's nearly unreachable as it mounted behind the steering input shaft (the designer should be beaten!) making getting a tool on it next to impossible... the PS is easy to get to.

Anyway after a ridiculous amount of frustration I got the rack out with the DS bolt still ruster into the bushings metal sleeve.. then into a 10 ton press (could NOT press it out) so then into a giant vise to hold the metal sleeve with a HUGE impact gun.. this finally got the bolt to spin in the metal sleeve and out it came (I'll post pictures).

I ordered new bolts and nuts ($42 CDN with taxes) and spent a day reassembling everything....

Well the Hamster came of the garage today as I set off for a front end alignment (tie rods had come off...) HOWEVER it STILL CLUNKED... just like before the steering rack odyssey so I turned around and put her (the hamster) back into the garage and set about searching this site and stumbled on this thread,,

I was able to get both mounting bolts out without breaking them and found them both in awful condition BUT not nearly as rusted as the steering rack bolts...

so.... I've ordered new 19mm LCA mounting bolts ($25 CDN) and will install those next week when they arrive from the centre of the Cdn universe ... Toronto :)

It would be wise to keep in mind they the idiots that brought you sh-t LCA bolts also did the same on the smaller and more fragile steering rack bolts...

btw..Toyota wanted $2200 (or more...its always more) to fix the rack...

Last edited by kenora; 02-11-2020 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 02-11-2020, 05:12 PM   #458
kenora
 
Drives: 2009 Yaris LE 5 dr
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well it looks like I did some house cleaning and got rid of the steering rack bolt pics but here are the LCA bolts... the passenger side shaft has eroded (rusted away) more that the other but I'm glad I'm changing them..
If some needs to see the steering rack bolts I can take another pic ... I saved the bolts to show friends the crap Toyota put in these cars..
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Old 02-13-2020, 06:17 PM   #459
myfirstyota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenora View Post
well it looks like I did some house cleaning and got rid of the steering rack bolt pics but here are the LCA bolts... the passenger side shaft has eroded (rusted away) more that the other but I'm glad I'm changing them..
If some needs to see the steering rack bolts I can take another pic ... I saved the bolts to show friends the crap Toyota put in these cars..
I'm very impressed you were able to get the rack bolts out and replaced without dropping the subframe. Or did I miss that step?
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Old 02-24-2020, 08:56 AM   #460
kenora
 
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that is correct... the sub frame doesn't need to come out..

I needed to removed the drivers side inner tie rod and boot and then wiggle the rack out the passenger side.. it takes a bit of twist and turn and about 5 minutes but out she came...
on reinstall it goes in the same way... the inner tie rod is installed after the rack is back on..
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Old 08-23-2020, 05:54 PM   #461
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I was checking the LCA bolts on a new to me 09, I got the bolts out ok, not to rusty but rusty dust fell out. The metal sleeve of the bushing seemed way over sized for the bolt. Anyone remember this being the case?
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