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Old 12-18-2020, 01:44 PM   #1
remcafee
 
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2012 Yaris SE rear axle beam swap

I have a 07 yaris that i purchased a rear axle beam from a canadian 2012 yaris se with rear discs, does anyone know if i need the master cylinder and or proportioning valve from the 2012 model? or does it not do any difference with the brake load from front to rear? my car has abs as well and dont know if that will actually compensate for that but if anyone has any experience or thoughts id like to know, thank you.
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Old 12-19-2020, 04:41 PM   #2
enviri
 
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its optional. without it you're definately going to get more rear bias, which can ruin your day if you ever panic brake and avoid. dont forget to upgrade your fronts too or your rear discs will make your stock fronts look tiny :P
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Old 12-19-2020, 06:03 PM   #3
remcafee
 
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yes i also got 2012 se front calipers and rotors, so would the only thing you need is the proportioning valve? and from i see thats parts of the master cylinder right?
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Old 12-21-2020, 08:47 AM   #4
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Also interested--I picked up a '13 SE rear axle but haven't decided if it should go on the 2ZR daily or on Project 2ZR Vios...
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Old 12-22-2020, 10:45 PM   #5
remcafee
 
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ok so i received the rear axle beam and unfortuneately they cut the e brake cable so i gotta source that, but once i have all the components im going to attempt it, i daily drive my yaris so i will make time for a day to do it, one thing im concerned about is the abs if it will act funny or not and constantly activate or something
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Old 12-24-2020, 03:52 PM   #6
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you'll be FIINE.
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Old 01-29-2021, 09:54 PM   #7
remcafee
 
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for anyone who wants to do this seap it is fairly straight forward and easy to do, the brakes grab way better now and abs seems to be working ok, so dont believe changing the master cylinder or proportioning valve is neccessary as upon abs activation it hits the front first so all in all it is a worthwhile upgrade in my opinion
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Old 03-06-2021, 01:13 PM   #8
myfirstyota
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totally worthwhile. I have the 2012 se axle in my car.

I will add, different or adjustable prop valve is a good idea. I'll be getting one for mine this season. The rear brakes will lock before the fronts in some situations. And the car WILL get squirly in thses conditions.

Also I burned through a set of rear brake pads rather quickly.

I also used a set of 2012 e brake cables. Some of the mounting brackets I had changed over from the original cables.
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Old 03-06-2021, 01:41 PM   #9
remcafee
 
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is your car abs or non abs? cause i read about the abs system and it works off of electronic brake force distribution on each wheel, fully electronic proportioning, so it actually adjusts the proportioning by itself, its pretty awesome, i was doing a track event last weekend and i did about 20+ laps and the fronts starting fading before the rears still, i pulled out and the front brakes were smoking and the rear brakes were fine, the rotors still had cross hatching showing on them, thr abs is fantastic in these cars.
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Old 03-06-2021, 11:43 PM   #10
Neinris
 
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Brake lines...

Could you just put steel braided lines up front and regular lines in the rear and not worry about the rear gripping harder than the front?
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Old 03-07-2021, 06:32 PM   #11
remcafee
 
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i dont see the point of just doing braided lines on front to try and equal the proportioning, just put an adjustable valve or if you have abs dobt worry about it
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Old 03-07-2021, 08:50 PM   #12
Neinris
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remcafee View Post
i dont see the point of just doing braided lines on front to try and equal the proportioning, just put an adjustable valve or if you have abs dobt worry about it
I get that if you have ABS then you don't have to worry about it. I don't have ABS.
Would the theory work though? Having braided lines on the front and not the back? If the rear are not braided, wouldn't the line expand a bit before the pads actually clamps on?
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Old 03-07-2021, 09:14 PM   #13
myfirstyota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remcafee View Post
is your car abs or non abs? cause i read about the abs system and it works off of electronic brake force distribution on each wheel, fully electronic proportioning, so it actually adjusts the proportioning by itself, its pretty awesome, i was doing a track event last weekend and i did about 20+ laps and the fronts starting fading before the rears still, i pulled out and the front brakes were smoking and the rear brakes were fine, the rotors still had cross hatching showing on them, thr abs is fantastic in these cars.
It was originally an abs car, however I didn't keep it when building the car. The non abs rear wheel bearings are about half the price lol. Plus I'm just not fan of abs.
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Old 03-07-2021, 09:16 PM   #14
myfirstyota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neinris View Post
Could you just put steel braided lines up front and regular lines in the rear and not worry about the rear gripping harder than the front?
you could, but i don't think it would be the difference your would need. Plus, my lines came in a set. And whos not gonna install braided lines if you got them?
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Old 03-08-2021, 12:51 AM   #15
remcafee
 
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i dont think braided lines and in front and stock rear would do a whole lot for evening out the proportioning, if i were you just put an adjustable valve and do braided line all around its easy to flare brake lines get the tool from harbor freight and just make sure to put your threaded fitting on before you create the flare lol
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