Stay tuned

[Jason@SportsCar]

This coming weekend (April 30-May 1) is the Cal Club SCCA Double National and BFGoodrich Tires Super Tour at Buttonwillow Raceway Park.

Saturday is a standard National Club race, but on Sunday things get turned up a notch thanks to BFG. The Super Tour is like a traveling version of the National Championship Runoffs - it features live timing and scoring (via the web), enhanced race coverage (both on site and in publication), and the most important part, the champagne shower on the podium.

We thought we might get as many as eight HP cars, but the Honda Fit is currently MIA, and one of the front runners from Norcal had to pull out at the last minute. It should still be an exciting race, Gary Wittman (the Austin Healey I was trading paint with at Willow Springs) will be there - and both of us have been working in the garage to find more speed. There are a number of other British roadsters, and Cory Markos in his Honda Civic. Its going to be fun.

If you can't make it out follow the link at scca.com for live scoring on Sunday. We are race group 4, and should be on track around 1:50pm.

http://www.scca.com/contentpage.aspx?content=144

[ilikerice]

will be there via web, hopefully. good luck

[Jason@SportsCar]

These are supposed to be the timing links for this weekend. I don't know if they will be active on Sat, but they will be on Sun.

SOUTHERN PACIFIC SUPER TOUR
BUTTONWILLOW RACEWAY PARK

LIVE TIMING
Live Timing & Notes: http://www.scca.com/sccalive
Live Timing Only: http://www.livetimin.../scca/supertour
Mobile Devices: http://www.livetimin...ertour/html.asp
Web Devices: http://www.livetimin...pertour/wap.asp

[Jason@SportsCar]

Took yesterday off to finish up a few details for the upcoming weekend... Purged more of the unneeded wiring harness, set the alignment and installed some brake cooling ducts.

We have never had an issue with the brakes, but the 13" wheels make for such a tight fit (I literally can not use a tape weight on the inside of the wheel, the caliper will hit it), and it everything is getting hotter. I am concerned both about brake temps, and the seal material in the three-piece wheels.

I did not want to open another path for air into the front of the car, so I squeezed the hoses into the grill opening. I would have liked to run the hose all the way to the caliper, but again the small wheel/tire package made this impossible - there is just to much going on with the CV boot, strut and tire clearance. So I attached the end of the hose to the swaybar link. When the suspension is at static ride height the hose lines up just behind the caliper - the suspension can move up and down freely, and the hose stays in the same location.

It's not as good as feeding the air right on to the brakes, but I am happy to have some airflow in the general area, it should help keep all the parts happier.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_LvWc9cO2fpo/TbmP_-rjMiI/AAAAAAAAAfg/gz7q7nnIEaQ/s1152/2011-04-27_15-03-06_979.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_LvWc9cO2fpo/TbmP4J0DSWI/AAAAAAAAAfQ/X-7TTSGiqSY/s1152/2011-04-21_08-40-55_192.jpg

[cali yaris]

This looks like it will work pretty well. Does squeezing the hoses restrict airflow? Can you have them terminate right behind that grill? Does that grill have to be there?

[Jason@SportsCar]

This looks like it will work pretty well. Does squeezing the hoses restrict airflow? Can you have them terminate right behind that grill? Does that grill have to be there?

I tried to squeeze them as little as possible, which is why the grill is a little deformed in that area, but the volume should be the same.

If I would have put them behind the grill, which was my original plan, the grill would have blocked some of the tube.

The front bumper has to "resemble" the stock one, so I would say that it does need to have the beams.

[HTM Yaris]

Kool .

The Mitsubishi EVO VIII had channel like ducts that attached on lower control arm . Don't know if it would be legal for your app , just an idea .

Here is a link

http://www.maperformance.com/mitsubishi-brake-cooling-air-guides-evo.html

[nemesisz]

The Mitsubishi EVO VIII had channel like ducts that attached on lower control arm . Don't know if it would be legal for your app , just an idea .


Just to expand on this idea. I was tossing this around for a little while. It seems to be popular with the newer EVO guys to retrofit these on their control arms.

Porsche 996 GT3 brake ducts (See posts 23 and 27) (http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/114030-gt3-rs-brake-ducts-175-shipped-2.html#post1647448)

Although I have found that the 993 brake ducts are a bit better fit size wise and not too expensive. You can get them from Pelican Parts for about $28. The part number is 993.341.083.00. A pair of these, maybe an xacto knife and some zip ties and you should be good to go.

Just an idea.

[YarisPR]

Is it allowed to use the foglight's base (the ones that hold the fog lights) to put the hose for the air ducts? Or does it have a negative effect?

[Astroman]

I had the foglight housing modified on my original OEM front bumper (drivers side), cutting out the "blocked" area for my AEM intake. Made a -10 degree (f) difference according to the intake temp on my scangauge.

PS- I love this thread!

[Jason@SportsCar]

http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=1&news=4096

This past weekend we took the Yaris up to Buttonwillow for the Cal Club Double National and BFGoodrich Tires Super Tour, the results: One pole, two wins and the H Prod track record (2:10.683) now belong to the Yaris.

The weekend was not without excitement... In Sunday qualifying I pushed a little to hard, resulting in an off that took out the belly pan and part of the bumper support. A bit of thrashing before the race and everything was back in shape. Starting second I got a great jump on the pole sitter, Gary Wittman, and never looked back. On Lap 8 I went a bit to hot over Phil Hill, launching the car off the track at the turns exit, the nose dug in the dirt but the car was able to motor on to the win by 12 seconds over Wittman.

So far in 2011: five poles, four wins, two runner-ups. Things are looking great for repeat of the Divisional Championship.

Not much excitement on Saturday, started from the pole and never really had to race anyone. I will post a Sunday video as soon as I get it together.

[cali yaris]

Great results! Do these races have a rolling start, or from a complete stop?

[thebarber]

congratulations jason!

[SailDesign]

Congrats, Jason- great article in the latest SportsCar, too (finally arrived....)

[Jason@SportsCar]

Great results! Do these races have a rolling start, or from a complete stop?

Rolling start, typically around 40-50mph, depending on who is setting the pace.

I really thought with all the slow turns Buttonwillow was going to be a terrible track for the Yaris, but with xB gear and 13" tires the car was always in the power. :burnrubber:

[Jason@SportsCar]

A few laps from Sunday's race: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_lUGIH_WSY

[Bluevitz-rs]

Jay, you need to lower the camera a bit. You can't see anything.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Jay, you need to lower the camera a bit. You can't see anything.

I had a new camera to try this weekend... But the damn thing came with no instructions and I could not figure it out. Luckily I had my trusty Go Pro in my bag. I like the angle of the roof mount, and I tried to lower a bit this time by adding an extension, but it is way to shaky and still to high up. :frown:

[Shinare]

Jay, you need to lower the camera a bit. You can't see anything.

I was thinking the same thing. Can't see much, but still love it! Keep up the good work.

[soloecho2]

Holy cow I can't believe there is that much flex in a car with a full cage !!
I thought I was watching through a fun house mirror.
Just kidding. The vid was great.
I guess the cars ahead were a different class and they had longer legs for the straiter sections of the track ?
Anyway keep up the good work you are doing us all PROUD !!

[Jason@SportsCar]

Holy cow I can't believe there is that much flex in a car with a full cage !!
I thought I was watching through a fun house mirror.
Just kidding. The vid was great.
I guess the cars ahead were a different class and they had longer legs for the straiter sections of the track ?
Anyway keep up the good work you are doing us all PROUD !!

"Flex", what do you think you are seeing? Don't mistake what the camera is doing for a chassis issue. btw the camera is not mounted to the cage, that is on a sticky foot attached to the inside of the roof.

It was a four car train... Note: If you are a newbie do not start with a 400hp T1 Corvette, you only look stupid when you are holding up a bunch of "slower" cars. Next in line was a T3 RX-8, then the SSB Honda Civic and me bringing up the rear. The four of us ran lap times that were about the same, all around 2:10s. You can see how the cars on DOT race tires with power make time on the striats, and I make it up in the turns - slicks are great. :thumbup:

Once I had a decent gap on the second place HP car I slowed to a 2:12 pace, with the idea that I might stay on the track if I did not take any more chances. :biggrin:

[Jason@SportsCar]

This should buff right out... Or maybe its time to order a new one.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_LvWc9cO2fpo/Tb90G0RDHJI/AAAAAAAAAgQ/-YDtOBa_t2Y/s800/2011-05-02_19-29-43_674.jpg

[eTiMaGo]

It's plastic, it should pop right back out :D

[soloecho2]

It was ment as a joke about the camera image. Thanks for the info on the other cars. Keep up the good work.

[Jason@SportsCar]

It was ment as a joke about the camera image. Thanks for the info on the other cars. Keep up the good work.

OK. Someone else made a similar comment, so I thought I was missing something in the video. :laugh:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Here is a PDF version of the second installment of the Yaris feature: http://pdfcast.org/pdf/sportscar-yaris-part-2

[Jason@SportsCar]

New part to test fit this weekend:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_LvWc9cO2fpo/TcMsP2rilUI/AAAAAAAAAhM/SYXMH6OMtMQ/s1152/2011-05-05_15-40-48_967.jpg

[rob323]

Which mount are these on a Yaris? Echo's don't have anything like that.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Which mount are these on a Yaris? Echo's don't have anything like that.

From the cross member to the bottom of the trans.

If it works good, and if the math $$$$ works out, Energy Suspension might put these into production.

[rob323]

Hmm, I wonder if this is an upgrade I can make on my echo cause that rear roll stopper cops an absolute hiding.

[cali yaris]

Energy Suspension will have to compete with TRD on that one. I would stock theirs if the price is right -- and they call.

[why?]

This should buff right out... Or maybe its time to order a new one.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_LvWc9cO2fpo/Tb90G0RDHJI/AAAAAAAAAgQ/-YDtOBa_t2Y/s800/2011-05-02_19-29-43_674.jpg

i love that image. Safe Racer with the nice dent in it.:thumbup:

So a question, how much of your success is the Yaris, and how much is your experience? Is the Yaris really as good as you make it seem, or are you manhandling the crap out of it to make it perform?

[Jason@SportsCar]

So a question, how much of your success is the Yaris, and how much is your experience? Is the Yaris really as good as you make it seem, or are you manhandling the crap out of it to make it perform?

Early on it was all about manhandling the crap out of the car... Now that the cars is getting faster I have to do less work.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Another item to put on the to do list. Going to try the 170 degree thermostat from the MR-2 Spyder. Dimensionally is measures the same as the Yaris part - and the Yaris uses the same standard part as the Spyder - so hopefully it works.

$10 VS $75+ for the TRD Japan part. :thumbsup:

I probably wont install it until we put the new motor in.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_LvWc9cO2fpo/Tc11_rT2KJI/AAAAAAAAAh0/9yv_Vm9N6sA/s1152/2011-05-13_10-59-44_436.jpg

[thebarber]

good info

[ROCKLANDTOYOTA]

my catalog says yaris and mr2 spyder thermostats are NOT the same!

the yaris shares same part # as all the 1nz motors and supra and 2.7 liter tacomas.

the mr2 spyder shares part #'s with camry, matrix,highlander,etc....

[Jason@SportsCar]

Since I have the spare motor sitting in the garage I may try and test fit it this weekend, I just wont have a chance to track test it.

btw... It is a Stant 14077 if anyone else wants to try it. Obviously you are at the mercy of the electric fans in a street car, so you will see little if any change except at freeway speed.

I looked into it because of the higher temps we are seeing now. With the 15" wheel/tire combo the car did not rev as quickly, and the temps stayed right around 200. Now with the 13"s the cars revs quicker, and maintains a higher average RPM, this has driven the temps up around 210. Hopefully this does the trick.

[Jason@SportsCar]

my catalog says yaris and mr2 spyder thermostats are NOT the same!

the yaris shares same part # as all the 1nz motors and supra and 2.7 liter tacomas.

the mr2 spyder shares part #'s with camry, matrix,highlander,etc....

Stant lists the 48308 (OE style 180 degree) as fitting the Yaris and 05' Spyder, along with a dozen or so other cars. :iono:

This is why we test stuff. Fingers crossed.

http://stant.com/common/part_locator/view_diagram.cfm?id=48308

[ROCKLANDTOYOTA]

Stant lists the 48308 (OE style 180 degree) as fitting the Yaris and 05' Spyder, along with a dozen or so other cars. :iono:

This is why we test stuff. Fingers crossed.

http://stant.com/common/part_locator/view_diagram.cfm?id=48308

HOPEFULLY it works!!!

[Jason@SportsCar]

Well it fits in the hole... wont know if it works for a few weeks.



https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-C7OT88fM8ME/Tc3154vRziI/AAAAAAAAAik/6J9ioE6Kn6k/s1024/2011-05-13_19-40-28_971.jpg

[ilikerice]

very interesting.. i love this thread..

[Blown_xa]

What pads do use for the track? I run into brake fade issues after just a few laps on Hawk hp+. What our your current spring rates? I bumped up my front rates after removing sway and fight instability during high speed braking , but it rotates fine eveywhere else now.

[Jason@SportsCar]

What pads do use for the track? I run into brake fade issues after just a few laps on Hawk hp+. What our your current spring rates? I bumped up my front rates after removing sway and fight instability during high speed braking , but it rotates fine eveywhere else now.

We are currently using Carbotech XP10 in the front, with stock shoes in the rear. Zero fade, and we have been using this same set pretty much since we built the car - we tried a few other sets at some test days, but ended up going back to the XP10 for all of the races.
I am not a big fan of Carbotech (long story), so I have been trying to get our friends at Hawk to build Yaris pads. So far no luck, but if the B-Spec class generates enough interest we might be able to convince them.

Current rates are 550lbs front, 650lbs rear. Using the smaller sedan front bar, this is a recent change, and it made a big difference from the center of the turn out.:thumbsup: No rear bar.

[thebarber]

i have carbotech's too (im not sure which model, i got them from echo_hrs)....they're squaky and dusty on the street (which my wife loves) but man do they ever grip w/o fade on the track...

[Blown_xa]

We are currently using Carbotech XP10 in the front, with stock shoes in the rear. Zero fade, and we have been using this same set pretty much since we built the car - we tried a few other sets at some test days, but ended up going back to the XP10 for all of the races.
I am not a big fan of Carbotech (long story), so I have been trying to get our friends at Hawk to build Yaris pads. So far no luck, but if the B-Spec class generates enough interest we might be able to convince them.

Current rates are 550lbs front, 650lbs rear. Using the smaller sedan front bar, this is a recent change, and it made a big difference from the center of the turn out.:thumbsup: No rear bar.

I appreciate the info!

[why?]

We are currently using Carbotech XP10 in the front, with stock shoes in the rear. Zero fade, and we have been using this same set pretty much since we built the car - we tried a few other sets at some test days, but ended up going back to the XP10 for all of the races.
I am not a big fan of Carbotech (long story), so I have been trying to get our friends at Hawk to build Yaris pads. So far no luck, but if the B-Spec class generates enough interest we might be able to convince them.

Current rates are 550lbs front, 650lbs rear. Using the smaller sedan front bar, this is a recent change, and it made a big difference from the center of the turn out.:thumbsup: No rear bar.

No rear bar? People around here swear by the rear bar. Of course then I doubt they are running rates like that. The sedan front sway bar is smaller? I wonder if I can pick one up used.

[dingbat]

Current rates are 550lbs front, 650lbs rear. Using the smaller sedan front bar, this is a recent change, and it made a big difference from the center of the turn out.:thumbsup: No rear bar.

Mind sharing what dampeners you're using?
Apologies if you've already said and I missed it.

[dingbat]

No rear bar? People around here swear by the rear bar. Of course then I doubt they are running rates like that. The sedan front sway bar is smaller? I wonder if I can pick one up used.

Four of the fastest SoloII VWs I've known of used no rear bar and a massive front bar. A Rabbit, a Scirocco, and two Jettas - very similar to the Yaris in suspension, power, weight, and weight distribution. There's more to the equation than just the bars but the conventional wisdom of small bar front, big bar back may make the car easier to drive, but doesn't necessarily make it fast.

[ilikerice]

agreed with that guy ^

after i put my rear sway bar on (UR 23mm) i honestly didnt notice a huge change with my autocross runs. I felt it a little, but not enough to say "DAYUM".. but it looks good.

i think my best mod are coilovers and tires.

[Jason@SportsCar]

The AST-USA http://www.ast-usa.com/ rear shocks we had built are shorter than stock, and have droop limiters, so a bar is not really effective on our car. If you jack up a typical Yaris the rear suspension may droop 3-4 inches, ours only goes down 1", so it tries to pick up the rear tire well before a bar would have much effect.

A rear bar helps free the car up on corner entry, but once you pick up the throttle and the rear settles down the bar is not doing much.

On the road race car if you free it up too much on entry the car can be nervous, and you might spend the first part of the turn chasing the tail. In an autocross environment the transitions happen so quickly, and the speeds are lower, so it is a more effective tuning aid.

It also doesn't hurt that my preference is a tight car, it is much easier to correct. A loose car expends way to much energy going sideways, energy that is no longer driving you forward.

Many cars see a benefit from a bigger front bar for Solo. It helps RWD cars put down power, and transition quickly. On strut FWD/AWD cars it helps to prevent camber loss, so even though it is counter intuitive it actually helps corner speed.

But (imho) for the most part swaybars are a band-aid for the wrong springs. Of course this depends on who's school of thought you want to subscribe to... One camp believes that soft springs make a more compliant suspension, that soaks up track surface imperfections, and you use big bars to control roll. The other guys believe swaybars try to take away grip by lifting the inside tires, so you use stiff springs to control body roll, and minimal bars to tune balance.

I like both... On a Solo car, where you only get three runs and the surface is usually crap, I like a car that is soft and forgiving. You wont get a perfect run with only three shots, so make the car easy to drive. On the track you have a lot of laps to figure it out, even if you screw up a lap you have a lot of chances to make it back up, so a stiff car works good here.

[why?]

Four of the fastest SoloII VWs I've known of used no rear bar and a massive front bar. A Rabbit, a Scirocco, and two Jettas - very similar to the Yaris in suspension, power, weight, and weight distribution. There's more to the equation than just the bars but the conventional wisdom of small bar front, big bar back may make the car easier to drive, but doesn't necessarily make it fast.

I wouldn't call them similar to the Yaris though. Maybe in concept, but the feel is just so much different. Plus does a Scirocco really have a torsion bar rear?

I'm still just grasping suspension tuning and what it really does. But I bet driver skill had a ton to do with it too.

[dingbat]

I wouldn't call them similar to the Yaris though. Maybe in concept, but the feel is just so much different. Plus does a Scirocco really have a torsion bar rear?


Having owned and raced a '79 Scirocco, and owned (for an admittedly short time now) a 2010 Yaris 3 door, I think the cars feel very similar, except for driver position, which will affect location of the center of mass. My own opinion of course, but I think what works for one, will work for the other when talking in basic concepts.
Yes, to the best of my knowledge, all the A1 chassis VWs had torsion bar rear ends. My '79 Scirocco did, and so did every A1 chassis I've ever been under. Maybe not the pickups?

I'm still just grasping suspension tuning and what it really does. But I bet driver skill had a ton to do with it too.
Always correct.
Same drivers however were faster in the setup I'm referring to than in a "conventional" setup in the same car. One of the cars ran in stock class and won SCCA Solo II nationals. May have even been both drivers, one male one female. The other cars have made very good showings nationally and divisionaly. Point being, they were competing against excellent drivers to start with.

And forgive me, I was talking specifically about the A1 chassis in my post above. I should have been clear about that.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Always correct.
Same drivers however were faster in the setup I'm referring to than in a "conventional" setup in the same car. One of the cars ran in stock class and won SCCA Solo II nationals. May have even been both drivers, one male one female. The other cars have made very good showings nationally and divisionaly. Point being, they were competing against excellent drivers to start with.

And forgive me, I was talking specifically about the A1 chassis in my post above. I should have been clear about that.

Many years ago Bob and Patty Tunnell ran a Jetta Wolfsburg very successfully (1992 ES/ESL Champions) in stock class... I seem to recall the running joke was their front swaybar was from a Winnebago.

[dingbat]

Many years ago Bob and Patty Tunnell ran a Jetta Wolfsburg very successfully (1992 ES/ESL Champions) in stock class... I seem to recall the running joke was their front swaybar was from a Winnebago.

That's the one......"Mongo".:clap:

I was told the bar was custom made at an RV shop out of stock normaly used for RV swaybars. Though I don't know the exact dimensions, it was suposedly "as big as a baby's arm". My friend in town here, who is using a setup that decended from ideas inspired by the Tunnell's Jetta, runs a front bar off a Pontiac Firebird that is over 30mm.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Not much going on with the Yaris right now, for the most part our National racing season winds down this time of year, so we have a few months to prep for the Runoffs.

Had a little time to kill after watching Indy, so I installed the new Energy Suspension engine/trans mount:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_DzSa3XzN7g/TeRWAyBEIOI/AAAAAAAAAmc/jIlfJ9I7JC4/s1152/2011-05-30_14-45-32_945.jpg

[thebarber]

are they going to be making the mounts for public sale?

[Jason@SportsCar]

are they going to be making the mounts for public sale?

I don't know.

[Jason@SportsCar]

How did I miss this??? Wish I had an xbox.

http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/forums/thread/4423907.aspx

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5287827983_b0a446e10c.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5288/5288429404_9c56d9c779.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5083/5287827941_d762247d4d.jpg

[cali yaris]

aww, you're immortal now

[thebarber]

since when did you have the rear lip on the yaris? or side mirrors? for SHAME forza!

lol

thats pretty wicked though

[Jason@SportsCar]

Made a trip up to AAA Speedway on Sunday to pick up some tires. And there it was in the paddock, the Honda Fit HP racer. They still have a lot of work to do, but it was great seeing the car out there for the SCCA Regional race.

Luckily for them I happened to have a couple of my 13" Jongbloed Racing wheels with me, and they were able to do a test fit. Turns out the wheels we spec'd for the Yaris are a perfect fit over the Honda's brakes.

Hopefully they get the car up to speed and bring it to the Runoffs at Road America.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YpEYgv58G9U/TfY6fvUVJEI/AAAAAAAAAqc/YVAOrBZqLiA/s1152/2011-06-12_11-32-40_775.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GnCepJFxtDM/TfY6sACRK0I/AAAAAAAAAqg/LGGnPl-qCTc/s1152/2011-06-12_11-32-50_155.jpg

[Bluevitz-rs]

Haha, man they have that thing slammed in normal Honda fashion.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Pulled the old front off this past weekend. The lower core support was bent up pretty good from the last race. Also the bumper was not salvageable, it was bent to the point of being cracked, and most of the mounts/supports were missing or damaged.

Turns out the #20 Yaris is not going to be used anymore, so we are going to pull all of the support structure and bodywork we need off of it before it goes to the crusher. Best part, since it has the same graphics its just plug and play.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FXtPOrcPAdY/Tgi14nW1moI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/uJEwd4DsJSg/s1152/2011-06-26_11-44-43_262.jpg

[Bluevitz-rs]

Wha happen?

[Jason@SportsCar]

Wha happen?

Nothing major, just wear and tear from racing. With the 13" wheels I only have about 3" of ground clearance, dipping a tire off the track means the front bumper/belly pan both hit the ground.

Between getting punted at Willow Springs, and jumping off the track at Buttonwillow, the front end was due to be replaced.

[Jason@SportsCar]

We got all of the useful bits off of the 20 car, and it will soon meet the crusher. We swapped the damaged bumper from the 99 on to it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HZUamnHxCio/TgpM_q_C7eI/AAAAAAAAAuY/49wXo8RJths/s1152/2011-06-28_13-39-16_413.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Te7lhcsvuWk/TgpNK8AeKBI/AAAAAAAAAuc/rZkJPStch0g/s1152/2011-06-28_13-40-08_755.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ixn7mZmIBQo/TgpM1D6y9XI/AAAAAAAAAuU/p8C8JI3gqN0/s1152/2011-06-28_10-52-56_468.jpg

[cali yaris]

is the cage going to be crushed? :frown:

[Jason@SportsCar]

is the cage going to be crushed? :frown:

Yeah, the whole thing. It's a weld in cage anyway, no way you could salvage and reuse it. The amount of hours that would take does not justify the few dollars saved versus getting a new one built.

The 98 car will stick around for a while, just in case they come up with a use for it - the 98 was supposed to go to the U.S. dealer meeting in Vegas this week, but they took something else.

[ilikerice]

can we have a moment of silence for when it goes to the crusher? :cry:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Got the old stuff out this weekend, went much quicker than I thought it would. Unfortunately some parts are on back order so I could not start putting the new motor in yet, hopefully I can knock it out next weekend.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m1IjMLRn2nA/ThpyyhwoM_I/AAAAAAAAAwM/QrVQwmifwgM/s1152/2011-07-10_15-42-14_750.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k8KnWTXcN9M/Thpy_pj3rMI/AAAAAAAAAwQ/Kqxd0aUb0eg/s1152/2011-07-10_15-53-28_56.jpg

[Jason@SportsCar]

Shiny new motor in place - you could eat off this thing. :biggrin: Should have it back on the ground next weekend, then off to the dyno, and finally a test day at the track.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OXzGnnhznbI/TiReaVpLXEI/AAAAAAAAAw0/AmNXLWLrmPQ/s1152/2011-07-18_08-23-23_327.jpg

[ilikerice]

amazing.. looks so fresh

[Jason@SportsCar]

So I had some time to play with this some more while I had two engines sitting on the garage floor. :laugh: I put both thermostats in a pan on the stove and heated them up to get open and closed lengths.

The Stant MR2 unit will fit. The only issue is the bypass will always be closed - with the stock thermostat the bypass is only closed when the thermostat is open.

So does anyone know what function the bypass has? :iono:

Another item to put on the to do list. Going to try the 170 degree thermostat from the MR-2 Spyder. Dimensionally is measures the same as the Yaris part - and the Yaris uses the same standard part as the Spyder - so hopefully it works.

$10 VS $75+ for the TRD Japan part. :thumbsup:

I probably wont install it until we put the new motor in.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_LvWc9cO2fpo/Tc11_rT2KJI/AAAAAAAAAh0/9yv_Vm9N6sA/s1152/2011-05-13_10-59-44_436.jpg

[ROCKLANDTOYOTA]

So I had some time to play with this some more while I had two engines sitting on the garage floor. :laugh: I put both thermostats in a pan on the stove and heated them up to get open and closed lengths.

The Stant MR2 unit will fit. The only issue is the bypass will always be closed - with the stock thermostat the bypass is only closed when the thermostat is open.

So does anyone know what function the bypass has? :iono:


"bypass valve regulates hot coolant into the heater core when you're using the heater or AC."-found USING GOOGLE....

[Jason@SportsCar]

"bypass valve regulates hot coolant into the heater core when you're using the heater or AC."-found USING GOOGLE....

Thanks. Since I don't have either of those it should not be a problem.

[Astroman]

Sad! Wish I could swap out the drivers side mirror with mine. Mine was broken at the swivel point and is gorilla glued, and when the glue did set it sagged a quarter inch. Toyota won't sell me the broken part, I need to buy the whole damn mirror.

Yeah, the whole thing. It's a weld in cage anyway, no way you could salvage and reuse it. The amount of hours that would take does not justify the few dollars saved versus getting a new one built.

The 98 car will stick around for a while, just in case they come up with a use for it - the 98 was supposed to go to the U.S. dealer meeting in Vegas this week, but they took something else.

[Bluevitz-rs]

They bypass also help let through any trapped air bubbles.

[Jason@SportsCar]

New front end is in place. I decided to put the brake ducts behind the grill this time, looks better, hopefully they still get good airflow. I also moved the tow hook, one less thing sticking out of the bumper.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eynrhE5RsB8/Ti7tNbCLraI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/9AlcTFUo5PQ/s1152/2011-07-26_08-26-23_639.jpg

[ROCKLANDTOYOTA]

So I had some time to play with this some more while I had two engines sitting on the garage floor. :laugh: I put both thermostats in a pan on the stove and heated them up to get open and closed lengths.

The Stant MR2 unit will fit. The only issue is the bypass will always be closed - with the stock thermostat the bypass is only closed when the thermostat is open.

So does anyone know what function the bypass has? :iono:

i just ordered a TRD thermostat through toyota that i thought was unavailable to me. should see it next week.....

[Jason@SportsCar]

i just ordered a TRD thermostat through toyota that i thought was unavailable to me. should see it next week.....

I figured it was not worth the risk of blocking the bypass with the cheap thermostat, so I ordered the cooler one from Mishimoto. Under $60 shipped on amazon. :thumbsup:

[cali yaris]

MMTS-TC05 is listed for newer model Corolla and Celica; is that the one you got?

61C deg = 140F deg (Mishimoto rating)
82C deg = 180F deg (Toyota OEM according to Mishimoto)

I don't see a reference to Yaris specifically.

[Jason@SportsCar]

MMTS-TC05 is listed for newer model Corolla and Celica; is that the one you got?

61C deg = 140F deg (Mishimoto rating)
82C deg = 180F deg (Toyota OEM according to Mishimoto)

I don't see a reference to Yaris specifically.

No, MMTS-SUP-93T, its the Supra unit. I hope it is really not a 140, (perhaps a metric to English translation error on their part) that will be a little to cool. I will have to put it on the stove and test it. :biggrin:

[cali yaris]

^ hehe, that makes me chuckle, but it's a great way to see how it works.

[Jason@SportsCar]

^ hehe, that makes me chuckle, but it's a great way to see how it works.

Do it when the wife is not around... They never understand car parts in their cookware. :iono:

And now I am thinking it would not be bad if it was really cold... I might be able to tape up the top grill for better aero. :wink:

[ROCKLANDTOYOTA]

conversion charts reads 140......

[Jason@SportsCar]

It's alive... Finally got around to starting it up with the new motor. Now we just need to get it back on the dyno, then out to the track.

[thebarber]

It's alive... Finally got around to starting it up with the new motor. Now we just need to get it back on the dyno, then out to the track.

are you allowed to post dyno sheets? if you are, could you?

[Jason@SportsCar]

What should I do with this? :iono: Approx 2k miles on everything except the head and fuel injectors, which have about half that.

My plan is to keep the head, we have a lot of work in to it, and may want to revisit it later.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IZbSqscbTdQ/TjgtA3QgOaI/AAAAAAAAAxg/NVcw1MWLik8/s640/2011-08-01_19-19-13_659.jpg

[Jason@SportsCar]

New parts are fun. Beatrush crank pulley. Hopefully a bit more durable than the last piece we had. Unfortunately, it's not an under drive unit, and it is a bit heavier than the last one, but if I don't have to pick up the pieces on the side of the track it will be worth it.

Stock 3lbs
Beatrush 1lb 4oz

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eTqnuCmlyU4/TjgtLhy-iRI/AAAAAAAAAxk/HiPziwILgww/s1152/2011-08-02_09-35-35_539.jpg

[Jason@SportsCar]

Got a lot done this weekend... Corner weights set, alignment set, old engine torn down.

Little by little I have been working to pull more weight out of the car, purging the wiring harness, cutting more metal out of the doors. The payoff, 1814lbs with a 1/4 tank of fuel. There is not much left to drop, I have not installed the new crank pulley, and there is still some undercoating left, likely less than 5lbs total. I can't find the exact number, but I think the car has lost over 500lbs since we got it - and it didn't have interior to begin with. :biggrin:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3h7pLFLweFI/TkAVln83FxI/AAAAAAAAAx8/efZ-Vg8C9qM/s1152/2011-08-06_19-17-22_444.jpg


And there's your problem... All season long the car has been using a little bit of water. Never enough to show up in the oil pan, and no oil was making it's way into the radiator. Turns out the coating on both sides of the head gasket had failed. Every head bolt came out with milky oil on it. We can only speculate, but we think this happen at the Runoffs last Sept, when the crank pulley failed and I had to nurse the car around the track with none of the accessories running. The temp never spiked on the gauge, but nothing was circulating in the engine. This could have gotten the head hot enough to damage the gasket.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qoBRRxgl_00/TkAV6WGerBI/AAAAAAAAAyE/0TWRaGUJuiA/s1152/2011-08-07_17-20-06_822.jpg

Now this is just wacky... The old water pump, only 2k miles on it, has a crack in the impeller. :eek: No idea what would have caused that, never gave any hint that it had a problem, still worked perfect last time we ran the car. :iono:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sUjnLFcPgv0/TkAVwMzxIiI/AAAAAAAAAyA/o8EJ2a6zswo/s1152/2011-08-07_17-19-36_732.jpg

[Jason@SportsCar]

conversion charts reads 140......

And unfortunately as advertized it does open at 140. I had hoped that it might have been a math/conversion/marketing error, because who would need one that cold? :iono: But that was not the case. Oh well.

[markitect]

Now this is just wacky... The old water pump, only 2k miles on it, has a crack in the impeller. :eek: No idea what would have caused that, never gave any hint that it had a problem, still worked perfect last time we ran the car. :iono:


I actually got my water pump replaced under warranty yesterday. I didn't get to take pictures but from what the technician said the crack was similar to yours, but when all the way up.

At this point the only symptom was that when you reduced the throttle there was a slight grinding noise. My guess is that it cracks in such a way that when your reducing the engine speed pressure builds up behind it causing the crack to expand, and the impeller to rub.

Mine has 32k miles on it, but I'm guessing the crack starts the same way, so suddenly lifting the pedal might be the cause, which I'm guessing you do a lot, and at high RPMs while racing.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Spent some time playing with the AEM over the last few days... The car has always been hard to start when cold, but with the new motor it would not start cold at all, I had to warm it up on the stock ecu and then swap to the AEM. :frown: So I played with the initial crank fuel trim, and now it fires right up. :thumbup: Should have played with that settings a long time ago.

Hitting the dyno tomorrow, we will see how strong this engine is.

Signed up for the Xtremespeed event a Willow Springs on Saturday. Will have a chance to get some miles on the new engine, and test out the new Cusco centerlock upper mount paired with stiffer springs.

[ilikerice]

oh the envy

[Jason@SportsCar]

Due to a scheduling issue we ended up tuning the car early this AM. As expected we gave up some HP going to the stock engine... But OMG, the TQ more than makes up for it.

Peak HP is now 132@5500rpm (a full 1000rpm earlier than the old motor), and at 5000rpm I have 20lb-ft more TQ than the old setup. :burnrubber:

While it sucks to give up the HP, nearly all of it was from 6500-7300rpm, so it wont be missed that much. The TQ increase will make a big difference on the start, corner exit, and every time I shift up a gear I will no longer be waiting for the engine to get back on the cam.

This should also make life easier on all the parts, as we no longer have any reason to spin past 7k.

Comparing this chart to the original (stock engine with the Camcon), shows how close the relatively inexpensive Camcon can get this car. The AEM got us about 2hp more, 8lb-ft more TQ, and another useable 500rpm. If we did not need every bit of power I would just use a Camcon. It gets you 95% of the way there, for about $1800 less. :cool:

[thebarber]

nice!

have a dyno chart?

[Jason@SportsCar]

After waiting nearly a month for a TRD thermostat, that seems will never arrive, I found another option... Cosworth has a new line of low temp thermostats, and just happen to have a Supra fitment. :cool:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6E7ax47d8OM/Tm6GHh7eSMI/AAAAAAAAAyk/i3wxEg7Q-PI/s1152/2011-09-12_15-20-58_907.jpg

[Bluevitz-rs]

What's the temp?

[Jason@SportsCar]

What's the temp?

154f.

[Bluevitz-rs]

What's the stock temp? 180

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

154f.

TRD is 160. will this be TOO LOW????

[ilikerice]

I think jason was hoping one was 140*F but wouldn't fit.. I think 160 isnt LOW ENOUGH :biggrin:

I think I may go with the TRD though. Future upgrade eventually. need a water temp. gauge first

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

I think jason was hoping one was 140*F but wouldn't fit.. I think 160 isnt LOW ENOUGH :biggrin:

I think I may go with the TRD though. Future upgrade eventually. need a water temp. gauge first

TRD is UNOBTAINABLE through me....

[Jason@SportsCar]

TRD is 160. will this be TOO LOW????

I am not worried about six degrees, that is within the noise in which most of those things operate - they almost never start, and reach full opening right on target.

[ilikerice]

good point

[Jason@SportsCar]

I think jason was hoping one was 140*F but wouldn't fit.. I think 160 isnt LOW ENOUGH :biggrin:

I think I may go with the TRD though. Future upgrade eventually. need a water temp. gauge first

Figures... I now have lots of choices. In addition to the Mishimoto 140, and the Cosworth 154, the TRD 160 just showed up. :laugh:

Now which one do I return.

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

Figures... I now have lots of choices. In addition to the Mishimoto 140, and the Cosworth 154, the TRD 160 just showed up. :laugh:

Now which one do I return.

with the price of the trd id sent that back first.......

[Jason@SportsCar]

with the price of the trd id sent that back first.......

Actually the Cosworth cost more in this case. If you shop you can find the TRD unit for under $100.

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

Actually the Cosworth cost more in this case. If you shop you can find the TRD unit for under $100.

i knew the trd was around 90 bucks BUT im not gonna ask what the cosworth cost....

[Jason@SportsCar]

i knew the trd was around 90 bucks BUT im not gonna ask what the cosworth cost....

Only a little more.

http://www.cosworthperformance.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=103&idproduct=857

[netz2008]

Wow, epic thread. This is giving me some really good ideas!

[Jason@SportsCar]

What do you do when you have a small race car... overcompensate with a big trailer. Now with a 29' box we can haul two cars.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6ElSdPGE6YY/TpuV298XEoI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/EC9dFhAPRwk/s1152/2011-10-16_11-22-32_847.jpg

[ilikerice]

WOW... talk about overkill.. now u can do your engine swaps inside your trailer on those cold winter nights

[jekqmb]

Jason I think we might have you beat lol....
Here is our Race Trailer, full kitchen, bed, shower, 4 flat screens in it, inside air floor lift, built in 80 gallon air compressor,
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u127/jekqmb/trailer.jpg
Our Race car, was wrecked last year so its being rebuilt this winter for the next race season, hopefully we will racing the Yaris next year as well and it will get to see the trailer.
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u127/jekqmb/viper.jpg

[Jason@SportsCar]

Yeah, we don't have enough truck to pull that monster.

Jason I think we might have you beat lol....
Here is our Race Trailer, full kitchen, bed, shower, 4 flat screens in it, inside air floor lift, built in 80 gallon air compressor,
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u127/jekqmb/trailer.jpg
Our Race car, was wrecked last year so its being rebuilt this winter for the next race season, hopefully we will racing the Yaris next year as well and it will get to see the trailer.
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u127/jekqmb/viper.jpg

[jekqmb]

Haha Yea its like a mobile home, we pull it with our H1 Hummer..... Its overkill, damn thing takes up sooooo much room when its in the shop, it is nice when we have to work on the viper at races though! Tons of room

[Jason@SportsCar]

Can't run another year down on power... And no way we are taking a crack at custom cams again.

Jun cams on the way. I sure hope they work. Now do I put them in the old ported head, or start from scratch.

http://www.junauto.co.jp/gallery/valvetrain/camshaft_1nz.jpg

[cali yaris]

^ Finally, someone who will be able to tell us how the JUN cams do in real life.

I don't care which head, as long as we have some measure of the difference they make. :thumbsup:

[Jason@SportsCar]

^ Finally, someone who will be able to tell us how the JUN cams do in real life.

I don't care which head, as long as we have some measure of the difference they make. :thumbsup:

Fingers crossed its not just more money into the R&D pit. :laugh: :frown: To save turn around time we are getting another stock head. We will either put them in the old ported head, or have the new one modified when these are fitted.

These are the 9.5mm lift units. Supposed to be here in 7-10days.

[racerb]

What do you do when you have a small race car... overcompensate with a big trailer. Now with a 29' box we can haul two cars.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6ElSdPGE6YY/TpuV298XEoI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/EC9dFhAPRwk/s1152/2011-10-16_11-22-32_847.jpg

This is my race trailer (one day when the car is finished) as it looked the day I brought it home.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v619/racerb/New%20Race%20Trailer/GanttPlayingSoccer095.jpg
And the only car thats riden in it so far, my NASA PACE-UV, our '98 Rav4!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v619/racerb/New%20Race%20Trailer/IMG00108-20101212-1128.jpg

racerb :thumbup:

[Jason@SportsCar]

What a pisser... It has been nearly a week since payment was sent to Jun, no response. No confirmation of payment, other than from Amex, and no shipping info.

Is this really how the JDM guys do business? :iono:

[cali yaris]

I had the same trouble just trying to ask questions. Never could extract a meaningful dyno from them. I'm sure they'll just show up without notice.

[Jason@SportsCar]

I had the same trouble just trying to ask questions. Never could extract a meaningful dyno from them. I'm sure they'll just show up without notice.

They were really good with answering questions before I placed the order, ask a question and by the next day I had a response, but nothing now. :thumbdown: They claimed six day shipping, so far I am six days without shipping info.

[racerb]

Hey Jason, contact Chris Rado at World Racing, he's a Scion Factory driver and has lots of great contacts from JDM to USDM. One of his main supporters is Brian Crower of BC Cams, they make all his custom pieces for his Scions. His site is; http://www.world-racing.com/ , and he is one really great guy to work with.

racerb :respekt:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Hey Jason, contact Chris Rado at World Racing, he's a Scion Factory driver and has lots of great contacts from JDM to USDM. One of his main supporters is Brian Crower of BC Cams, they make all his custom pieces for his Scions. His site is; http://www.world-racing.com/ , and he is one really great guy to work with.

racerb :respekt:

I contacted BC a few weeks before ordering the Jun units, I heard a rumor they were going to build Yaris cams, but all they offer is a regrind. We have already been down that road with a well known Runoffs winning engine builder, with limited success. The problem is none of these guys are going to spend the time to develop a cam maximized for our needs - we have rules we need to meet that don't apply to the normal consumer - without a lot of R&D money on our end. Most people won't be shopping for a max lift .390 cam, using stock fuel injection, with limited port work and a stock bottom end. Welcome to Limited Prep Prod class, its a cheap engine build. :)

Buying something like the Jun cams, that supposedly has the R&D behind it, is a less costly investment than starting from scratch. If it works.

It took some poking, but I now have a tracking number. Fingers crossed it all turns out well.

[racerb]

Good luck Jason, this is one reason I left SCCA for NASA, the rules restrictions were getting to be too much! It only took me about 23 years of beating my head against the wall to figure it out and I was just running IT.

racerb :iono:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Good luck Jason, this is one reason I left SCCA for NASA, the rules restrictions were getting to be too much! It only took me about 23 years of beating my head against the wall to figure it out and I was just running IT.

racerb :iono:

I guess the 18 years I have been at it are not enough to feel that way. The rules are black and white, and easy to follow. Everyone in my class on my prep line has the same mods, there is no guessing. :thumbsup: The only challenge we face is that we are racing a Yaris, so parts are harder to find. That is not the Club/rules fault.

NASA, forget about it. It would triple my build cost. Screwing around with all the possible points options, no thanks. :thumbdown: Worst of all, lack of competition and tiny fields. Which class was it that had a single car at the Nasa Nationals, PTF or something? *edit, the single car class was PTF in 2010, this year they had three cars. Sorry, but three cars at the biggest event of the year is just sad.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Spent a couple hours in Torrance, and now we have a spare head to prep for the new cams. This one only has 1200 miles on it. :cool:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hQEtu6-5wN4/TsWOhKNTx6I/AAAAAAAAA0o/XgavNbCP_9s/s1152/2011-11-17_12-49-58_875.jpg

[CrankyOldMan]

Any chance you could take a rubbing of the intake face for some measurements? I'm still not having much luck reverse-engineering the mounting hole dimensions for the outer two bolt holes using only pictures. Lens distortion is a real bastard when trying to project geometry, and the gasket--well, you know. =/

[Jason@SportsCar]

Any chance you could take a rubbing of the intake face for some measurements? I'm still not having much luck reverse-engineering the mounting hole dimensions for the outer two bolt holes using only pictures. Lens distortion is a real bastard when trying to project geometry, and the gasket--well, you know. =/

I will try.

I have a spare intake manifold I could loan you if that helps?

[CrankyOldMan]

I will try.

I have a spare intake manifold I could loan you if that helps?

Well, I think a rubbing would be cheaper to mail, but the intake would give me a chance to get the other mounting locations as well. Could you get a shipping quote for 49426?

[racerb]

I guess the 18 years I have been at it are not enough to feel that way. The rules are black and white, and easy to follow. Everyone in my class on my prep line has the same mods, there is no guessing. :thumbsup: The only challenge we face is that we are racing a Yaris, so parts are harder to find. That is not the Club/rules fault.

NASA, forget about it. It would triple my build cost. Screwing around with all the possible points options, no thanks. :thumbdown: Worst of all, lack of competition and tiny fields. Which class was it that had a single car at the Nasa Nationals, PTF or something? *edit, the single car class was PTF in 2010, this year they had three cars. Sorry, but three cars at the biggest event of the year is just sad.

Well maybe after NASA has been around for 60 plus years, we'll have more cars at our Championship weekend. Here in NASA Southeast we don't car count issues, most of our events, Road Atlanta especially draws 375-450 cars. Yes the PT car counts aren't the greatest, but it's still a growing class only about 5 years old with new cars making the move from TT.

The local SCCA regions are loosing IT cars annually, with ITB-ITC almost completely depleated. I raced IT from 1986 to 2000 and was never allowed to relocated my battery, put in NASCAR door bars or install Lexan window. Hell the first few years I couldn't even remove the passenger seat. I like the NASA rule set better, cause I can choose the mods I want and be as stock or modified as I want.

With all the free mods availible, I will most likely only move up one class from base classing, so my '87 Celica GTS which is based as PTF will fit nicely in PTE and be extremely competitive. One thing our guys like about PT here, is they can run TT, PT, or SM and lots are running TT, PT, or Honda Challenge. The Corvette guys really like it cause they can run TT, PT, and ST2 all in the same weekend if they like.

racerb :clap:

PS: I used to be a NASA hater, till I made the switch, now every weekend is a joy not a struggle with politics!!

[Jason@SportsCar]

Well maybe after NASA has been around for 60 plus years, we'll have more cars at our Championship weekend. Here in NASA Southeast we don't car count issues, most of our events, Road Atlanta especially draws 375-450 cars. Yes the PT car counts aren't the greatest, but it's still a growing class only about 5 years old with new cars making the move from TT.

The local SCCA regions are loosing IT cars annually, with ITB-ITC almost completely depleated. I raced IT from 1986 to 2000 and was never allowed to relocated my battery, put in NASCAR door bars or install Lexan window. Hell the first few years I couldn't even remove the passenger seat. I like the NASA rule set better, cause I can choose the mods I want and be as stock or modified as I want.

With all the free mods availible, I will most likely only move up one class from base classing, so my '87 Celica GTS which is based as PTF will fit nicely in PTE and be extremely competitive. One thing our guys like about PT here, is they can run TT, PT, or SM and lots are running TT, PT, or Honda Challenge. The Corvette guys really like it cause they can run TT, PT, and ST2 all in the same weekend if they like.

racerb :clap:

PS: I used to be a NASA hater, till I made the switch, now every weekend is a joy not a struggle with politics!!

Whatever floats your boat. It's good that we all have a choice that fits our wants and needs. :drinking:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Now the fun can start.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/390884_118468668266270_100003094128221_111855_1789 07366_n.jpg

[johnny_vitz]

Yessssssss!!!

[Bluevitz-rs]

Did you sort out the communication problem with Jun? Or did it just show up at your door?

[Jason@SportsCar]

Did you sort out the communication problem with Jun? Or did it just show up at your door?

I think their normal business practice is to just ship it... I was able to get shipping info by escalating it via Paypal.

[Bluevitz-rs]

HAHA, oh well, at least you got it.

So are you just doing the cams or are you doing valves too? And have you decided on what head you're putting it into?

[Jason@SportsCar]

HAHA, oh well, at least you got it.

So are you just doing the cams or are you doing valves too? And have you decided on what head you're putting it into?

The rules allow us to use alternative valves, but we do not get to go bigger as a Level 2 prep car, so there is not much point in replacing them.

I am going to use the head I just pulled last week, all stock with 1200 miles on it. We will port match, deck the head, upgrade the valve springs and do a five angle valve job.

[cali yaris]

Yum. I really, really want those cams to do something.

[racerb]

Now the fun can start.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/390884_118468668266270_100003094128221_111855_1789 07366_n.jpg

Congrats man, hope it makes the kinda power your looking for!!

racerb :w00t:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Just picked up the new tow rig from Toyota... Hopefully it fairs a bit better with the two car trailer than my old tired Expedition.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s320x320/389473_124023454377458_100003094128221_131319_2476 52670_n.jpg

[Bluevitz-rs]

4.7 or 5.7

[Jason@SportsCar]

4.7 or 5.7

5.7, 2wd with tow pkg. Rated for 10K, we est our weight will be around 8k loaded.

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

now wrap it with the old school toyota colors like the yaris....

[Jason@SportsCar]

now wrap it with the old school toyota colors like the yaris....

The rolling billboard is not my preferred method of travel. :laugh: That, and I bet it would cost a fortune to wrap something that big.

[racerb]

Just picked up the new tow rig from Toyota... Hopefully it fairs a bit better with the two car trailer than my old tired Expedition.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s320x320/389473_124023454377458_100003094128221_131319_2476 52670_n.jpg

That's going to be my next truck. My 2001 Tundra is pushing 200,000 miles and is still towing my 20'x8 1/2' Haulmark trailer with no trouble, 4.7 engine has been plenty strong!

racerb :w00t:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Garm is an evil man... He captured a unicorn and sold it to us - he knew we could not resist. We now have a close-ratio gear set for the C50. :thumbup: Who would have thought such a thing even existed. :drool:

In the next week I will be taking our spare trans to be fitted with the new 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, and a fresh OS Giken Super Lock LSD, so we can do a complete swap into the car.

The new ratios are sick, so short in fact we are going to have to use the Yaris FD (3.7), the xB (4.3) is way to short.

The old setup was just not getting it done... The 4.3 FD with the 15" tires was a dog, the car just could not pull out of the tight stuff. The 4.3 FD with the 13" tires was an improvement on tight tracks. But we actually found when looking at our post Runoffs data, that even though the car got up to speed quicker, our top speed was no better - this setup required the use of 5th gear far to much, which is just to much OD for the car to pull.

With the new setup our 5th gear is almost equal to the stock 4th.

OE
1st 3.545
2nd 1.904
3rd 1.310
4th 0.969
5th 0.815

Close-ratio (1st and 2nd go unchanged)
3rd** 1.474
4th** 1.208
5th** 0.961

Our stock trans had a 2300rpm drop from 2nd to 3rd, and 1900rpm from 3rd to 4th. With the new setup we only drop 1500rpm from 2nd to 3rd (this will be huge), and 1300rpm from 3rd to 4th. This makes it much easier to stay on peak power. Additionally, where we typically would only use two to three gears per track in the stock box, we will now use three to four gears. The gear multiplication should make for much better acceleration, and 5th gear at 7300rpm is 122mph, perfect for Road America.

It all looks sweet on paper, now we just need to make it fit and try it.

The rules will hit us with a 50lb weight penalty for alternative trans ratios, but since the car is still overweight we wont have to actually add anything.

Talking to the Honda guys we race against, the Mugen close-ratio they run is worth an average of 2sec a lap at most tracks. If that holds true for this gear set, it will big a bigger improvement in lap times than the engine work was. :burnrubber:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7153/6467700753_ea00b110a3_z.jpg

[cali yaris]

Guilty as charged! I plead need for speed!

[CrankyOldMan]

Garm is an evil man... He captured a unicorn and sold it to us - he knew we could not resist. We now have a close-ratio gear set for the C50. :thumbup: Who would have thought such a thing even existed. :drool:

Oh my, I think I'm nursing a semi...

In the next week I will be taking our spare trans to be fitted with the new 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, and a fresh OS Giken Super Lock LSD, so we can do a complete swap into the car.

Does that mean that your "spare" gearbox will not be available anymore? Or is this the swap you had alluded to before?

Close-ratio (1st and 2nd go unchanged)
3rd** 1.474
4th** 1.208
5th** 0.961

It's like mathematical pr0n!

Our stock trans had a 2300rpm drop from 2nd to 3rd, and 1900rpm from 3rd to 4th. With the new setup we only drop 1500rpm from 2nd to 3rd (this will be huge), and 1300rpm from 3rd to 4th. This makes it much easier to stay on peak power.
That's the biggest reason that I'm attempting my custom box: terrible acceleration from 15-20 mph because of the RPM drop from 1st to 2nd. I'm staying N/A for the time being, so I don't need these ratios, but it's great to know that there are now some real options other than buying whole used transmissions to scavenge parts. I'm assuming that the gears will come as a complete pair (roller bearings, synchros) sans hub?

[Jason@SportsCar]

Oh my, I think I'm nursing a semi...

Does that mean that your "spare" gearbox will not be available anymore? Or is this the swap you had alluded to before?

It's like mathematical pr0n!

That's the biggest reason that I'm attempting my custom box: terrible acceleration from 15-20 mph because of the RPM drop from 1st to 2nd. I'm staying N/A for the time being, so I don't need these ratios, but it's great to know that there are now some real options other than buying whole used transmissions to scavenge parts. I'm assuming that the gears will come as a complete pair (roller bearings, synchros) sans hub?

It is the one I had mentioned, this should eventually free up my original case for your project.

I don't find the 1-2 drop to be that bad, because the total ratio in 2nd still allows for good acceleration - assuming you have done the xB FD or run 13" tires. :wink:

We are N/A, I would be less incline to search for gearing advantage if we had big power, all of this effort is to make up for a lack of power. :laugh:

My area of expertise when it comes to transmission is pulling it out of the car. The kit came with six gears, input and output side for 3rd, 4th and 5th. No bearings, at least not in the form I am use to seeing them in, but they do look like they have a synchro on the appropriate pieces. (note the gear on the right of the image)

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/386137_127109450735525_100003094128221_140273_2545 81835_n.jpg

[cali yaris]

We are N/A, I would be less incline to search for gearing advantage if we had big power, all of this effort is to make up for a lack of power.

Makes sense. But the final drive is for EVERYONE. :biggrin:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Makes sense. But the final drive is for EVERYONE. :biggrin:

Right... What I was getting at is I would not worry about close ratios if I had Tq. But the car is geared to tall on its own no matter the output, you got to do something to pep it up. The FD is the quick and easy shot that gets you most of the way there. :cool:

[CrankyOldMan]

The FD is the quick and easy shot that gets you most of the way there.
Wait, since when does a full teardown and rebuild of a transmission fall into "quick" or "easy"? :biggrin:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Yummy... More Jongbloed wheels. 13x7, 8lbs 5oz. Now which set goes on which car??? I think these might need to go on the 99. :biggrin:

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s320x320/387334_127855073994296_100003094128221_142037_3817 62902_n.jpg

[Jason@SportsCar]

Just talked to our engine builder... They are taking the stock head/intake/TB I sent them and flow testing them to see how well the stock setup works. From that they will make a plan of attack to modify the head (withing the H Prod rules), and we will see what kind of power it makes with the new Jun cams.

[cali yaris]

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s320x320/387334_127855073994296_100003094128221_142037_3817 62902_n.jpg

:drool:

[CrankyOldMan]

I'm curious to know if you've looked at the 3.941:1 FD ratio from the Corolla/1st gen Matrix C59 series? Still gives you near-stock, but just a bit more oomph in 1st/2nd. If you're interested in test-fitting it, I'm pretty sure the C59 I bought has one. I can't vouch for its condition as I haven't torn it down that far yet, but I plan on getting to it some time mid-Jan. Oh, and it has a 3.166:1 1st gear too, if that makes any difference.

[Jason@SportsCar]

I'm curious to know if you've looked at the 3.941:1 FD ratio from the Corolla/1st gen Matrix C59 series? Still gives you near-stock, but just a bit more oomph in 1st/2nd. If you're interested in test-fitting it, I'm pretty sure the C59 I bought has one. I can't vouch for its condition as I haven't torn it down that far yet, but I plan on getting to it some time mid-Jan. Oh, and it has a 3.166:1 1st gear too, if that makes any difference.

1st gear is pretty useless for road racing... Beyond pulling the car on the trailer and initiating movement, it is already not used.

If 2nd was any shorter the gap to 3rd would only get bigger, if anything I would like a taller 2nd, to reduce the RPM drop to 3rd.

With our 20" tires I will have to turn 7300rpm in 5th to hit 120mph with the stock FD, I am not sure I want to spin a stock bottom end much harder.

[CrankyOldMan]

1st gear is pretty useless for road racing... Beyond pulling the car on the trailer and initiating movement, it is already not used.
Aah, understood. I'm assuming that road racing does a rolling start, like oval tracks?
If 2nd was any shorter the gap to 3rd would only get bigger, if anything I would like a taller 2nd, to reduce the RPM drop to 3rd.

And there's the bugger of it: 1st and 2nd pinions are part of the input shaft. You could in theory get much closer with a C60 gearset, but then you're either notching the frame (illegal for H stock?) or trying to rework a piece of hardened steel (expensive/near-impossible) to shorten the input and output shafts. Any chance you've contacted KAAZ about the option to make a one-off?

[Jason@SportsCar]

Aah, understood. I'm assuming that road racing does a rolling start, like oval tracks?

And there's the bugger of it: 1st and 2nd pinions are part of the input shaft. You could in theory get much closer with a C60 gearset, but then you're either notching the frame (illegal for H stock?) or trying to rework a piece of hardened steel (expensive/near-impossible) to shorten the input and output shafts. Any chance you've contacted KAAZ about the option to make a one-off?

Yes, SCCA uses rolling starts for Club Racing. The Pace Car or Pole sitter will set the pace, depending the on the cars in the mix this is typically 50-70mph.

They actually just did a clarification this week which gives FWD Prod cars the same allowances as RWD to trim body/frame bits to fit alternative transmissions. So a swap could be done.

This should get us close enough, even if its not perfect, its way better than what we have had the last two years... At least on paper, we still have to get it on the track. :wink:

The trans and all the bits are now in the hands of our mechanic.

[CrankyOldMan]

I don't want to spoil the surprise, but I think I've cracked the source and specs for these. Could you confirm if I have the specs right?

3rd - 28:19 (1.474:1)
4th - 29:24 (1.208:1)
5th - 25:26 (0.962:1)

[Jason@SportsCar]

I don't want to spoil the surprise, but I think I've cracked the source and specs for these. Could you confirm if I have the specs right?

3rd - 28:19 (1.474:1)
4th - 29:24 (1.208:1)
5th - 25:26 (0.962:1)

I can not confirm that information... I never counted the teeth, and the parts are all at the shop.

[Jason@SportsCar]

I think this may be a bit overkill for our build, but on the upside I think we have zero chance of ever using it up - and I know it wont end up looking like Garm's last clutch. :evil:

Looking forward to testing the new OS Giken Super Single race clutch.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/385103_131912583588545_100003094128221_153896_2378 90944_n.jpg

[Bluevitz-rs]

How much does the whole assembly weigh in at? Looks light.

[Jason@SportsCar]

How much does the whole assembly weigh in at? Looks light.

On our postage scale the works was 16lbs 13oz. I think that is 1lb more than my aluminum setup from SPEC, but this is a lot smaller in diameter, so the moment of inertia should be very similar.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Just picked up another trailer... 40' open, now we can haul three Yaris at one time.

The cool thing was 19mpg with it empty behind the Tundra, when we towed the enclosed the other day we only got 10.5mpg with it empty.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/396145_136087869837683_100003094128221_167171_1562 985519_n.jpg

[cali yaris]

and I know it wont end up looking like Garm's last clutch.

It is my wish never to see that again. Your new clutch looks real nice.

[Jason@SportsCar]

It is my wish never to see that again. Your new clutch looks real nice.

Wish I could put it in... Ordered flywheel bolts from TRD on Dec 12th, five show up. On the 21st get an email saying the last one arrived and is shipping to me, should have had it on the 23rd - it never showed and they are closed for the holidays for about ten days.

Started calling dealers today, nearest flywheel bolt is in San Fran. So the car will live on jack stands for another few days over a single blot. :mad:

[Bluevitz-rs]

What's special about TRD bolts? Aren't they all grade 10 bolts?

[Jason@SportsCar]

What's special about TRD bolts? Aren't they all grade 10 bolts?

Racer pricing from TRD.

[Jason@SportsCar]

WOW, the OS Giken Super Single was a bugger to install... Usually most clutch's have enough play in the splines you can pretty easily stab the transmission and bolt everything up. The OS Giken is so tightly machined you had to have everything lined up dead on. Working by myself it took an hour to get the trans bolted up, normally this is a ten minute job. I was beat.

So far I have only driven it in and out of the driveway, so driving impression is very limited. Pedal effort is high and it grabs hard. Would be great for a FI car, but I am not sure I would use it on a daily driver. Hopefully I will get a better idea of what its really like next week.

[cali yaris]

^ with a trailer. :laugh:

[Jason@SportsCar]

On our postage scale the works was 16lbs 13oz. I think that is 1lb more than my aluminum setup from SPEC, but this is a lot smaller in diameter, so the moment of inertia should be very similar.

Just weighed the OE assembly (pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel) 26lbs 8oz - this was used but only 1000miles, you can still see the machine marks in the flywheel, so this should be an accurate weight of a new one.

That was a nice little drop.

[cali yaris]

OS Giken is making a new diff with more plates for the Yaris. :iono:

[Jason@SportsCar]

OS Giken is making a new diff with more plates for the Yaris. :iono:

I don't think we are even using full lock up now. :eek:

[upgradedyaris]

WOW, the OS Giken Super Single was a bugger to install... Usually most clutch's have enough play in the splines you can pretty easily stab the transmission and bolt everything up. The OS Giken is so tightly machined you had to have everything lined up dead on. Working by myself it took an hour to get the trans bolted up, normally this is a ten minute job. I was beat.

So far I have only driven it in and out of the driveway, so driving impression is very limited. Pedal effort is high and it grabs hard. Would be great for a FI car, but I am not sure I would use it on a daily driver. Hopefully I will get a better idea of what its really like next week.

The OS Giken IMO has always been a grabby clutch. Tilton would have been a better choice although it is more spendy. It is very street friendly and has a super light/soft pedal.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Got the new Hoosier radial slick to test out. :drool:

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/390809_147187838727686_100003094128221_201970_1956 888470_n.jpg

[Bluevitz-rs]

Just weighed the OE assembly (pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel) 26lbs 8oz - this was used but only 1000miles, you can still see the machine marks in the flywheel, so this should be an accurate weight of a new one.

That was a nice little drop.

Could you through on just the clutch assembly with the bolts, if possible. Curious to see how much that heavy PP is.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Just got back from Willow Springs, shaking down the 2012. :biggrin: Considering how little it done to it when compared to the 99 car, it was fast. Just needs a little more tweaking, but a great first outing.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/394431_148254901954313_100003094128221_204364_2459 84318_n.jpg

[cali yaris]

Those tires...so much meat. :drool:

How do you think (so far) the car compares with the one you race?

[Jason@SportsCar]

Those tires...so much meat. :drool:

How do you think (so far) the car compares with the one you race?

The rear fenders on the 2012 don't like me so much anymore, I spent a lot of time with the fender roller making sure those things would fit - we did not want to flare this car.

So far I am impressed. The longer wheelbase makes the car much more stable, and it does not get away as quick when it does break loose. The car exceeded my expectations for the day, it was nearly a full second quicker than I expected it to be... Still not as quick as the 99, but so far we have been unable to get the AEM mated up to the new ECU. Once we get the parts equal on both cars it may have a slight edge due to the lower roof-line and more stable platform. :thumbup: However, I am doubtful I will get it as light as the 99 (which is down to 1800lbs), the lack of aftermarket body panels is going to make it hard to drop those last few lbs.

I sure do like the looks of it better than the old car.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/402179_3045705111602_1532385339_2987520_1723852368 _n.jpg

[CTScott]

The rear fenders on the 2012 don't like me so much anymore, I spent a lot of time with the fender roller making sure those things would fit - we did not want to flare this car.

So far I am impressed. The longer wheelbase makes the car much more stable, and it does not get away as quick when it does break loose. The car exceeded my expectations for the day, it was nearly a full second quicker than I expected it to be... Still not as quick as the 99, but so far we have been unable to get the AEM mated up to the new ECU. Once we get the parts equal on both cars it may have a slight edge due to the lower roof-line and more stable platform. :thumbup: However, I am doubtful I will get it as light as the 99 (which is down to 1800lbs), the lack of aftermarket body panels is going to make it hard to drop those last few lbs.

Are you having issues with the AEM on the 2012 ECM, or have you just not had a chance to sort out the wiring differences yet?

[Jason@SportsCar]

Are you having issues with the AEM on the 2012 ECM, or have you just not had a chance to sort out the wiring differences yet?

We have had vendors looking for the plugs, so we could build an PNP like with did on the 99, but no luck. And so far we have not had a chance to try the hardwired method, we will likely start going down this road after the race next weekend. I hate to go hardwired because it is really nice being able to plug in the stock ECU if we had a problem, but we may not have a choice in this case.

[CTScott]

We have had vendors looking for the plugs, so we could build an PNP like with did on the 99, but no luck. And so far we have not had a chance to try the hardwired method, we will likely start going down this road after the race next weekend. I hate to go hardwired because it is really nice being able to plug in the stock ECU if we had a problem, but we may not have a choice in this case.

I think the new connectors are from Sumitomo. It would probably be easier to get an engine harness and ECM from Toyota to harvest a male and female set from.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Just got the new head with Jun cams back from Loynings... Oh how I wish I had time to install it and retune the car before this weekends race. :burnrubber:

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/407890_152190851560718_100003094128221_213786_1071 549056_n.jpg

[ilikerice]

I am so jelly

[Jason@SportsCar]

I am so jelly

I want to leave work NOW and install this. :laugh:

So if anyone is wondering, it does not look like the 9.5 Jun cams is a direct bolt-in, some machine work is needed.

Relief cuts for the cam:

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/404665_152203044892832_100003094128221_213800_1708 255334_n.jpg

[Jason@SportsCar]

Could you through on just the clutch assembly with the bolts, if possible. Curious to see how much that heavy PP is.

Stock pressure plate with hardware is 9lbs - the bolts made up about 3oz of that.

[ilikerice]

cutting weight where ever you can.. :thumbup:


is this where you grinded? Is it just this cam lobe or others also?

[Jason@SportsCar]

cutting weight where ever you can.. :thumbup:


is this where you grinded? Is it just this cam lobe or others also?

It is the area you circled, and to the left of it, he actually took it all the way down to the bucket area. From what I can tell the head got this treatment on both sides of the bucket, at every cam lobe.

[ilikerice]

oh wow.. I see that now..

Hey another question I got for you.

I was looking at a picture of your cabin in the attached pic below,
I noticed the Sparco seat is pretty low to the floor and the steering wheel is almost at neck level. I am sure your very comfortable with this setup from the video's I have seen at events. Is there a visibility issue looking over the dash? I mean your eye level has to be even with the dash if not just a bit above..

OR, are you just really tall? lol

[Jason@SportsCar]

oh wow.. I see that now..

Hey another question I got for you.

I was looking at a picture of your cabin in the attached pic below,
I noticed the Sparco seat is pretty low to the floor and the steering wheel is almost at neck level. I am sure your very comfortable with this setup from the video's I have seen at events. Is there a visibility issue looking over the dash? I mean your eye level has to be even with the dash if not just a bit above..

OR, are you just really tall? lol

The setup has changes since that pic was done for SEMA 2010... The seat and wheel are both lower and further back now, and I now have a halo seat. :eek: We no longer have to fit a bunch of guest drivers so the seat sliders were removed, anyone who wants to drive the car has to suck it up and sit where I like.

The seat is 1" lower and back about an 1". The stock steering column was removed and a custom unit that moved the wheel down and back is in there, although the wheel is still in basically the same location in relation to where I sit.

Is there a visibility issue? Depends on your point of view. :laugh: Many of the open cars I have to race against can not be seen if we are bumper to bumper, other than the roll hoop and the drivers helmet. But it is certainly not an issue. At speed you are looking so far down track whats immediately in front of you is not really an issue.

I am 5'9", I think my head just clears the top of the seat. You can see from this shot, where the camera is just below eye level, it is not bad at all: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gm4NJaZ3CHo

[ilikerice]

Interesting.. thanks. I was curious. I am 5'10/11 depending who I stand next to. I was skeptical about buying a carbon fiber seat like the one you have in the picture. Looking over the dash was my issue being that I autocross. I will look at that video when I get home.. work doesnt permit youtube

[Jason@SportsCar]

Interesting.. thanks. I was curious. I am 5'10/11 depending who I stand next to. I was skeptical about buying a carbon fiber seat like the one you have in the picture. Looking over the dash was my issue being that I autocross. I will look at that video when I get home.. work doesnt permit youtube

In an autocross car I sit much closer to the wheel and up higher, you need to see the cones. :wink:

[cali yaris]

I am 5'10/11 depending who I stand next to.

I like how that is a relative thing. :laugh:

thanks for discussing this guys. I used a few washers to lower my steering wheel a bit. Any more and my left knee would hit it.

[racerb]

Interesting.. thanks. I was curious. I am 5'10/11 depending who I stand next to. I was skeptical about buying a carbon fiber seat like the one you have in the picture. Looking over the dash was my issue being that I autocross. I will look at that video when I get home.. work doesnt permit youtube

I'm 5'11" myself and have alway mounted my seats as low as possible for road racing, it does make it difficult to auto-x, but you learn to adapt. Here are a few pics of the way I mounted the seat in my Celica, using brackets I made myself.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v619/racerb/GTS%20Race%20Mods/100_3565.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v619/racerb/GTS%20Race%20Mods/100_3574.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v619/racerb/GTS%20Race%20Mods/100_3564.jpg

Oh and as you can see, I still have the front portion of the cage to add, installed just the rollbar for my own peace of mind for HPDE events.

racerb

[33OH]

Already received my SSK I bought off you Jason - thanks so much! Didn't even know it was possible to ship that fast..

[ilikerice]

I like how that is a relative thing. :laugh:

thanks for discussing this guys. I used a few washers to lower my steering wheel a bit. Any more and my left knee would hit it.

That is a good idea.. you talking about those bolts circled in the diagram? did you have to get longer bolts, or was there enough to thread left?

[Jason@SportsCar]

That is a good idea.. you talking about those bolts circled in the diagram? did you have to get longer bolts, or was there enough to thread left?

I did the same thing with mine before I went to a custom setup, as I recall there was enough thread there to drop it a 1/2".

[ilikerice]

I did the same thing with mine before I went to a custom setup, as I recall there was enough thread there to drop it a 1/2".

if you dont mind me asking, what needed to be done to that to make it custom fit for you?

Also, is it custom in the fact that it was fabricated or parts were exchanged with other oem parts from other makes/models?

again if I am stepping out of the bounds on your secrets I totally understand

[racerb]

if you dont mind me asking, what needed to be done to that to make it custom fit for you?

Also, is it custom in the fact that it was fabricated or parts were exchanged with other oem parts from other makes/models?

again if I am stepping out of the bounds on your secrets I totally understand

Not sure of Jason's set-up, but I'm using a straight section of what is called double D steering shaft, cut to proper length with the quick release center section welded on. In my case the original column both tilted and telescoped, so I'm going back to the last flex joint before it turns down toward the firewall base. Where the original large centering bearing also held the telescoping handle, I've come out about 2" and added a 3/4" male hiem joint which hold the steering shaft and lines it up more with my seating possition in the car. When I installed my seat, I moved it to the right as far as the center tunnel would allow, making the steering wheel slightly too far to the left.

racerb

[ilikerice]

interesting..

I dont mean to hijack your thread Jason.

I think I understand what your saying racerb, but could you PM me a picture of that setup. I am curious. Also that moving the seat further to the shifter is a good idea too. It would make shifting a bit more comfortable

[racerb]

interesting..

I dont mean to hijack your thread Jason.

I think I understand what your saying racerb, but could you PM me a picture of that setup. I am curious. Also that moving the seat further to the shifter is a good idea too. It would make shifting a bit more comfortable

Sorry for continueing the hijack, but couldn't find any pictures of my steering column set-up. So here is a very simular set-up to mine on an MG, same basic deal hung verticle where mine hangs horizontal.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.britishracecar.com/JamesBowler/JamesBowler-GB.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.britishracecar.com/JamesBowler-MG-MGBGTV8.htm&h=450&w=600&sz=42&tbnid=ZuJWFnQKzU6IsM:&tbnh=95&tbnw=127&prev=/search%3Fq%3Drace%2Bcar%2Bsteering%2Bcolumn%26tbm% 3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=race+car+steering+column&docid=X_JnQSZVXDBD1M&hl=en&sa=X&ei=GAsaT8ueNpPMtgfis82OCw&ved=0CE4Q9QEwAw&dur=180

racerb :iono:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Sorry for continueing the hijack, but couldn't find any pictures of my steering column set-up. So here is a very simular set-up to mine on an MG, same basic deal hung verticle where mine hangs horizontal.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.britishracecar.com/JamesBowler/JamesBowler-GB.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.britishracecar.com/JamesBowler-MG-MGBGTV8.htm&h=450&w=600&sz=42&tbnid=ZuJWFnQKzU6IsM:&tbnh=95&tbnw=127&prev=/search%3Fq%3Drace%2Bcar%2Bsteering%2Bcolumn%26tbm% 3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=race+car+steering+column&docid=X_JnQSZVXDBD1M&hl=en&sa=X&ei=GAsaT8ueNpPMtgfis82OCw&ved=0CE4Q9QEwAw&dur=180

racerb :iono:

Similar to mine as well. Splined shaft with a quick release welded on. Simple, much lighter than stock, and further reduced the steering effort.

[cali yaris]

I heard good things happened this weekend... :biggrin:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Progress... Loynings head with Jun cams mated to the block. :drool: If I did not like my neighbors I would fire it up and do the break-in tonight. It will just have to sit till the weekend.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/421617_160678244045312_100003094128221_236029_1196 439923_n.jpg

[33OH]

We're not worthy. :bow:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Just got the car back together. Tomorrow we make noise.

[Jason@SportsCar]

It's alive. Now to schedule some dyno time.

[thebarber]

does it feel more powerful?

[Jason@SportsCar]

does it feel more powerful?

My butt dyno could not tell as I sat in the car with the engine revving between 2000-3000 for half an hour breaking in the cams.

We cant exactly drive this on the street. :wink: The dyno will show the difference, as will laps at Willow Springs during the next race.

[Jason@SportsCar]

On the dyno next Tuesday. :drool:

[cali yaris]

Excellent. Finally. Thank you.

[ilikerice]

Sorry, could you run by what else is done to this motor also along with the jun cams? Just as a reference.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Sorry, could you run by what else is done to this motor also along with the jun cams? Just as a reference.

The Production class rules are fairly restrictive to the newer cars like ours, but we can still open it up a little: intake/exhaust ports opened up to match intake/header to a depth of 1". Multi angle valve job. Head decked to get us closer to our 11-1 max compression ratio.

[thebarber]

how much did you have to take off the head?

[Jason@SportsCar]

how much did you have to take off the head?

I have not seen the build sheet/bill yet. :iono: Without being able to CC everything (I did not send the bottom end so they could not measure the piston volume) I am sure they went conservative. I know the pistons don't slap the valves, happy about that. :thumbup:

[thebarber]

I have not seen the build sheet/bill yet. :iono: Without being able to CC everything (I did not send the bottom end so they could not measure the piston volume) I am sure they went conservative. I know the pistons don't slap the valves, happy about that. :thumbup:

lol

[Jason@SportsCar]

The results are in, the Jun cams are an improvement over the custom grind we had done for the 2010 season, but they are not magic.

With the combination of head work and cams we picked up 12hp when compared to the stock engine we ran in 2011. However, just like with the custom grind cams we lost Tq below 5000rpm when compared to the stock engine - fortunately in this case we only lost 3ft-lbs, where the 2010 cams lost around 18ft-lbs.

While I was not jumping for joy at the final numbers, I was happy to see the top end power match our 2010 numbers, while regaining most of our lost Tq. Additionally, the power band with the Jun cams is much broader than the custom grind was, we have nearly 1000 more usable RPMs than we did before. From 5500rpm on we have more HP and Tq than either of the previous setups offered, and the power delivery is smooth.

If you are thinking about the Jun 9.5 cams keep in mind these are not a direct bolt-in. Your head will need relief cuts to clear the lobes, and without engine management you will not see the full gains.

Overall I give them a thumbs up, but expect to spend about $2k between the cams and head work.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/423326_166968056749664_100003094128221_249474_5446 37808_n.jpg

[CrankyOldMan]

So this--combined with reverting the final drive--should make you much more competitive than last season? How's the gearbox coming along?

[ilikerice]

On behalf of everyone at yarisworld, thank you. lol

[Jason@SportsCar]

So this--combined with reverting the final drive--should make you much more competitive than last season? How's the gearbox coming along?

The car still wont be a front runner in the dry, but it should be faster than the last two years.

Still waiting on the close ratio gear box.

[Jeff@MicroImage]

Are you still running VVT-i in this car? Does your tuner/management have control over the that?

[Jason@SportsCar]

Are you still running VVT-i in this car? Does your tuner/management have control over the that?

Yes, still running it and the AEM controls it.

[Jeff@MicroImage]

Yes, still running it and the AEM controls it.

Great results! I'm real excited to see that these actually work. I'd be curious to see if any top end gains or benefit from disabling VVT-i and running set or manually adjustable cam gears. Might loose more torque though...

Can't wait to see what the turbo spec Jun cams do for boosted cars :headbang:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Great results! I'm real excited to see that these actually work. I'd be curious to see if any top end gains or benefit from disabling VVT-i and running set or manually adjustable cam gears. Might loose more torque though...

Can't wait to see what the turbo spec Jun cams do for boosted cars :headbang:

The low end gets really weak with no VVT-i control.

[racerb]

The results are in, the Jun cams are an improvement over the custom grind we had done for the 2010 season, but they are not magic.

With the combination of head work and cams we picked up 12hp when compared to the stock engine we ran in 2011. However, just like with the custom grind cams we lost Tq below 5000rpm when compared to the stock engine - fortunately in this case we only lost 3ft-lbs, where the 2010 cams lost around 18ft-lbs.

While I was not jumping for joy at the final numbers, I was happy to see the top end power match our 2010 numbers, while regaining most of our lost Tq. Additionally, the power band with the Jun cams is much broader than the custom grind was, we have nearly 1000 more usable RPMs than we did before. From 5500rpm on we have more HP and Tq than either of the previous setups offered, and the power delivery is smooth.

If you are thinking about the Jun 9.5 cams keep in mind these are not a direct bolt-in. Your head will need relief cuts to clear the lobes, and without engine management you will not see the full gains.

Overall I give them a thumbs up, but expect to spend about $2k between the cams and head work.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/423326_166968056749664_100003094128221_249474_5446 37808_n.jpg

As a long time racer of low horsepower front drive cars, any gains with restrictive rules are a real plus. Learning how to get the most out of the loose nut behind the wheel, can actually make the biggest difference. Just look back in history at what those early racers did with the first Mini Coopers, cars that might have had 40 hp and tiny, skinny as hell tires. When you get to the point where your getting the most out of you the driver, then horsepower numbers aren't as big a factor in all out speed!!

racerb

[KSIbucky]

From runoffs

[Jason@SportsCar]

Off to Willow Springs tomorrow, testing radial slicks on the 99.

[Jason@SportsCar]

We are making progress on the Kaaz close-ratio gear set. Kaaz USA was able to track down the synchros we need, and are making modifications to two of the gears for a proper fit. :thumbup: They have already successfully built one trans for the Scion rally team, and are working on our gears right now. We should have all the parts in hand before the end of the week.

I would imagine that means I will spend my weekend in the place I am getting way to familiar with, on the floor pulling a trans out.

[CrankyOldMan]

Wow, I'm surprised to hear that there's so much involved in fitting those gears. The C-56 gears went in without much fuss, but I'm stalled on funding for replacement parts and the LSD.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Wow, I'm surprised to hear that there's so much involved in fitting those gears. The C-56 gears went in without much fuss, but I'm stalled on funding for replacement parts and the LSD.

It is odd, these were supposedly built for the C56. Are you pulling parts out of a C56 A or B? Could be the difference. :iono:

Turns out the gear itself is not to wide, but the collar at its base, that combined with the Yaris synchro made it bind up. And it is only the 3rd and 4th on the input side that is the challenge. They take a little bit off the collar and install the Celica/MR-S synchro its supposed to fit.

Fingers crossed.

[racerb]

Back in my Honda racing days this guy was the man for alternate gear sets, he can probebly help you out if need be. He is a multi-time SCCA Champ and really knows a thing or two about gearboxes.
http://www.housemanautosport.com/

racerb :w00t:

[Jason@SportsCar]

Back in my Honda racing days this guy was the man for alternate gear sets, he can probebly help you out if need be. He is a multi-time SCCA Champ and really knows a thing or two about gearboxes.
http://www.housemanautosport.com/

racerb :w00t:

He was the first person I talked to when we started looking for gears two years ago. He was willing to make a custom final drive, but we found the xB gear fit at a fraction of the cost. He had no interest in doing the dog engagement trans that I wanted.

[CrankyOldMan]

It is odd, these were supposedly built for the C56. Are you pulling parts out of a C56 A or B? Could be the difference. :iono:

Turns out the gear itself is not to wide, but the collar at its base, that combined with the Yaris synchro made it bind up. And it is only the 3rd and 4th on the input side that is the challenge. They take a little bit off the collar and install the Celica/MR-S synchro its supposed to fit.

Fingers crossed.

I'm afraid you've got me stumped on that one. I didn't realize there were two C56 variants, or at least that there were significant internal differences between the front and rear mounted versions.

[racerb]

I'm afraid you've got me stumped on that one. I didn't realize there were two C56 variants, or at least that there were significant internal differences between the front and rear mounted versions.

Toyota must have a big range of different gearbox versions, my S-53 is fairly common, but I ended up with a JDM box and can't find syncros or shims to fit it! Would love to find an alternate final drive, the 4.18 is just not working for our longer tracks here in the East.

racerb :iono:

[Jason@SportsCar]

I'm afraid you've got me stumped on that one. I didn't realize there were two C56 variants, or at least that there were significant internal differences between the front and rear mounted versions.

C56A open diff
C56B LSD

You may actually have the same problem we did and not know it yet if you have not put it back together. You wont know until you jam it all in the case and measure the drag when you spin it.

[CrankyOldMan]

It's definitely a C56A then, as it's an open diff. The assembly goes together at the moment, but I haven't checked the torque yet. I have to replace the output shaft inner bearing (the one in the bell housing) because the C56 has an inner race on the roller bearing, whereas the C50/C59 doesn't, and the groove where the snap ring holds the inner race on the shaft sits right in the middle of the rollers. I'm assuming that you weren't able to get the torque set properly with any of the shims, which prompted you to investigate?

[Jason@SportsCar]

The trans out of the 99 is in the shop for its new guts. With any luck I will have a close-ratio box by Friday.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Do you know what the new ratios are?

[CrankyOldMan]

I don't want to spoil the surprise, but I think I've cracked the source and specs for these. Could you confirm if I have the specs right?

3rd - 28:19 (1.474:1)
4th - 29:24 (1.208:1)
5th - 25:26 (0.962:1)

Do you know what the new ratios are?

Jason said that he hadn't counted the teeth on them, but I'd be willing to bet that these are in fact the new ratios. 1st and 2nd are integrated into the input shaft, so he's stuck with 3.545:1 and 1.904:1 respectively.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Jason said that he hadn't counted the teeth on them, but I'd be willing to bet that these are in fact the new ratios. 1st and 2nd are integrated into the input shaft, so he's stuck with 3.545:1 and 1.904:1 respectively.

I did not count the teeth, but Jeff @ MI did, and they were not the same counts as what you have found on the OE parts you pulled from the other boxes.

Yes, 1st and 2nd stay the same, and I would not want them any shorter. With our final drive and tire size 1st is only useful for getting on the trailer. With 2nd good only to 62mph, it is only used on very tight turns, any shorter and we would have to use 3rd for the slow stuff.

The new ratios are:
3rd 1.474 Kaaz
4th 1.208 Kaaz
5th 0.961 Kaaz

With this setup on most tracks we will use four gears VS only two or three with the current setup, offering much better acceleration. We will see 120mph in 5th at our redline, perfect for Road America. :thumbsup:

[thebarber]

just got my new issue of car and driver today....they did a b-segment racer comparo....kia, honda, mazda, mini....where was your toyota?

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

just got my new issue of car and driver today....they did a b-segment racer comparo....kia, honda, mazda, mini....where was your toyota?

late comer i quess.....

[Jason@SportsCar]

just got my new issue of car and driver today....they did a b-segment racer comparo....kia, honda, mazda, mini....where was your toyota?

We were invited to the test, but they only wanted B-Spec cars. The 2012 was already in H Prod trim at that point - would have crushed the other cars, so its not a fair comparison - and Toyota did not want to take the old 98 B-Spec car so we politely declined.

Does it have lap times? Wondering if they beat what we did with the B-Spec car last year.

[thebarber]

Fit 1:53.1
Rio 1:52.0
2 1:53.2
Mini 1:53.0

Rio running wrong restrictor plate and too light

[Jason@SportsCar]

Fit 1:53.1
Rio 1:52.0
2 1:53.2
Mini 1:53.0

Rio running wrong restrictor plate and too light

Not bad times. I did a 1:55 about 200lbs over weight, had a passenger. :laugh: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lBZlEM_85M

[thebarber]

if i read the article correctly, only the mazda 2 was actually perfectly following the scca rules...

[Jason@SportsCar]

if i read the article correctly, only the mazda 2 was actually perfectly following the scca rules...

Which I believe as of the date that test was done may be incorrect... The Mazda guys were out watching at the Jan SCCA National we ran, but they did not bring their car. We asked them why, and they said because the car was not legal, the battery had been relocated and the parts were not available in the US at that time to fix it.

This is all part of the reason we pulled the plug on took the 2012 Yaris to H Production. So far only Honda and us (Toyota) have submitted the parts for our BS suspension kits to SCCA for testing, many manufacturers are still playing around. This is the second year the cars have been legal to run and people are still screwing around. :mad: And I would fully expect a manufacturer to send a hot car to a magazine test, you want your stuff to be on top. :wink: