Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Hopefully this little woofer can give you some output in front.
It won't be as loud as the ID12, that's for sure...
What I'm wondering is, why we didn't do a slot port instead of a tubed port.

I understand that the IDQ12 it's much louder, just the fact that physically it's more than twice the size of the I6SW, on the other side you and I know that 4 of this little subs are as good as 2 18's (I know there is a lot going on from point A to point B) but let me try it.

I can feel 2 things over here:

1. You are preparing me for "unsatisfactory results" and that's OK, my install has been improving from trail and error, if I don't like the I6SW I'll get another one and try again, if that's not enough I'll just try some thing else or drive with my IDQ12 up front! I'm ok with that too.

2. Some one is jealous that I'm going to have a sub up front! Just kidding LOL


Why we didn't do a slot port? well because you are too far away, but now that I think about it.... mmm may not be very helpful for one sub the way I have it, but for 2 subs down the floor maybe that's the way to go!

D.

[derickveliz2]

A question for the experts, what is the best way to give the upper skin a solid structure? just keep adding layers of glass?

Here are a couple of shots after 15 O.Z. of resin:








D.

[sqcomp]

Come on! Get it done already! :P This waiting around for resin to dry is BS!

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Come on! Get it done already! :P This waiting around for resin to dry is BS!

I wish it was about the resin to dry, that's not the issue...

12 Years ago, all this install would be a 3 or 4 weeks and done, I used to do projects in less than 1/2 the time the average person would take but...


Now with 2 kids, a house to take care, 2 jobs and 200 miles/day of commute it's a little harder to get to my stuff. You will get to that point in your life, I know others here know what I mean. It's all good like I said before: "I would love to have 30 or 40 hours/day and very little sleep (o:

Patience I'll get it done sooner or later (o: It's me who really wants to get all these done!

D.

[sqcomp]

Oh, as for reinforcement...you can keep laying mat down OR you can use long hair to reinforce.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Oh, as for reinforcement...you can keep laying mat down OR you can use long hair to reinforce.

What does "long hair" means? or what kind of fiberglass is that? Sorry I'm 2 naive for that!

D.

[sqcomp]

long strand fiberglass filler

http://www.boatbandit.com/evercoat-k...ler-12150.aspx

The nice thing about the longstrand is that it's a lot like a thick (fiberglass reinforced) bondo. You can put gloves on and form it on the inside of the enclosure.

I'm also watching some of the "advice" the DIYMA guys are giving. Be careful with that. Most of them are keyboard commandos. Yes, you can lay down three layers of matting on top of the resined mat you have down BUT you risk becoming too dry. And this guy saying to do that based off a picture is full of shit. He needs to be there to put his hands on it before ANY advice is doled out on how you're doing your glass.

He's trying to hook you into thinking he's a glassing master.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

long strand fiberglass filler

http://www.boatbandit.com/evercoat-k...ler-12150.aspx

The nice thing about the longstrand is that it's a lot like a thick (fiberglass reinforced) bondo. You can put gloves on and form it on the inside of the enclosure.

I'm also watching some of the "advice" the DIYMA guys are giving. Be careful with that. Most of them are keyboard commandos. Yes, you can lay down three layers of matting on top of the resined mat you have down BUT you risk becoming too dry. And this guy saying to do that based off a picture is full of shit. He needs to be there to put his hands on it before ANY advice is doled out on how you're doing your glass.

He's trying to hook you into thinking he's a glassing master.

Thanks, for the EVERCOAT Kitty Hair Fiberglass Filler. Looks like this will be a good cubic feet volume killer if I need to reduce the size of the enclosure!

Yeah! I hear you about the glassing master, I take step by step and easy going, read and think twice!. Thanks again.

D.

[sqcomp]

note...

The DIYMA guy talking about "biaxial" mat? That's chop mat. Take a close look at the mat you have, notice that it probably has two layers a top an bottom...bi axial...hmmm.

When we're talking about strength, it's about the resin quality, the amount of resin, and the material used. Can you say carbon fiber weave? THAT is strong. Why do you think they use it on race cars. Strength and light weight.

[TOLMACH]

(I kinda think): Derick, you are building a ported enclosure - you probably do not need lots of extra strength in it.. may be do another layer of thick fabric (like fleece)? (which is easy and does not need much time)

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

note...

The DIYMA guy talking about "biaxial" mat? That's chop mat. Take a close look at the mat you have, notice that it probably has two layers a top an bottom...bi axial...hmmm.

When we're talking about strength, it's about the resin quality, the amount of resin, and the material used. Can you say carbon fiber weave? THAT is strong. Why do you think they use it on race cars. Strength and light weight.

Yeah, that's ok, I'm building this small little box just for the fun, hopefully it will be a keeper, and I'm aware of strength and light weight I agree with you, I'm used to try to make it as strong as possible but keep it very light! some of my airplanes are made of carbon fiber, wings and fuselage!

This little plane over here buzzes at 140mph speed passes at 4' off the deck:






D.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

(I kinda think): Derick, you are building a ported enclosure - you probably do not need lots of extra strength in it.. may be do another layer of thick fabric (like fleece)? (which is easy and does not need much time)

I guess you have a good point, any way another layer doesn't hurt, plus some other stuff inside, I can't wait to try it out.

D.

[TOLMACH]

We want to see update on your project!! Go and do it !! )))))))))))

[packetrace]

What have you used on the A pillar to do this texture ?

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

We want to see update on your project!! Go and do it !! )))))))))))

OK, here we go, sit down and check it out! I have 2 updates:


The most important, isn't the little subwoofer, it's about front stage and that my MIDS are gone for now! YES that's what you read... I did disconnect my mids (so good by to all the work on the a-pillars), and this is why:

(I wrote this a few weeks ago, but didn't wanted to post until now)...

Now I understand how to achieve good front stage, image, depth for a great SQ system. (at least to a degree level of my knowledge)

After trying every position and aiming possible ending up with my mids at the a-pillars tuned and every thing... sounds amazing in every way, but I learn many other facts... and how to improve it.

My HU let's me switch back and forth from a 2 way to a 3 way in a few seconds, (Mute the mids change x-over points for mid/bass and tweeters at the same time) incredible I can make my 2 way sound better without the MIDS and depending on the song sometimes I can't tell the difference, and this is with just a flip of a switch. My conclusion is that PLD's play a huge roll for SQ, Time Alignment it's a must in junction with EQ.

Me going from 3 way to 2 way:

1 "MUTE" mids
2 tweeters go down from 8kHz to 6.3kHz (HPF)
3 Lows go up from 1.6Hz to 6.3kHz (LPF)

In some songs I can tell the 3 way is crisper and the stage is up a little bit but I can tell... a little harsh with high frequencies (must be the reflections from the windshield) but.... a narrower stage! and a less focused center image (2 different drivers trying to accomplish a good image gave me a muddy center image), so I start wondering why? and I knew that...

PLD's plays a big factor even if it's just inches: my mids and lows (in doors) have the same PLDs that is one of the reasons when I go from 3 way to 2 way I barely feel a difference or improvement from one to the other.

Also check that when I have the MIDs playing in the a-pillars the distance between components is shorter, so in my 3 way configuration with mids in the A-pillars my stage is "SMALLER-NARROWER, NOT AS WIDE"

Also to compensate for that smaller stage the x-over point goes up (in my case to 1.6kHz) this defeats all the performance of a good mid with the ability to play low around 200Hz, almost any cheap speaker can do from 1.6 to 6.3/8kHz where the tweeter picks up, this brings my Lows (6.5" drivers in doors) to go from 63Hz up to 1.6kHz so my stage grows up but my TA starts to struggle, remember that TA doesn't really mater after 2kHz and I loose my point source! by having to divide the frequencies from 200Hz to around 6kHz to aloud point source.

So in my case, I don't have space to move my 6.5" drivers to the kick area, but I can use my 3" MID as a point of source into the A-frame, this will make my stage wider and deeper away from me (that's what you want in SQ), why?... PLD's are more efficient when placing a point source (MID) as far forward possible! so in the near future that's what it's going to be, my MIDs will go in the kick area.

As of today, I've been driving and playing with my set up, for more than 5K miles, learning and experimenting, most of the time (90%) playing my music with the MIDs in "MUTE" position, just because sounds better, I can improve my set up by re-installing my MIDs in the kick area.

And I know in Music and SQ/car it's all relative to the listener, What I write here is my personal opinion from many hours of playing around, reading and experimenting, but you've seen my install, from spheres to a-pillars, and I enjoy sharing with you my thoughts, I'm open to any opinion, I'm learning this stuff and believe me I enjoy every tiny bit of this install, trail and error got me where I'm today!


Now with the I6SW:
This one is not going to "MUTE" no way, I finish the enclosure so I could try and play with it, (so it's not completely finished)
It's late so I didn't crank it up, I did have to move some settings in my HU like time alignment and bump up the db a little bit, even with a new woofer and at low volume hits very nice, goes low and merges very well with the LOWS, so let me play with it for 20-30 hours (break in period) and will update about it, so far at low volume sounds very positive, we'll see with more watts, volume, road noise, etc... how responds! (just for the record I have a big smile on my face )



I was at my sisters place and I did not resist to take a picture [with my cell phone!]



D.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by packetrace

What have you used on the A pillar to do this texture ?

I'ts a texture spray I got at Walmart that was on sale for $5 bucks. I did like it better before black paint, but I really wanted the a-pillars to be black.

D.

[sqcomp]

mmm...I'll agree with PLDs.

Let me get this straight, you're not using the midrange anymore? Tweeter and midbass?

I've got some alternate aiming on the A-pillars with some tweeter action in different areas (not in the kick). We'll compare notes. I wish we could listen to each other's setups. Too far away...

Can you imagine what kind of trouble we could get in if we lived closer? Man!

I suppose the other thing with mine is that I'm going for a two seat tune at some time in the future. We're both operating very different setups...

...Instead of muting your mid channel on the deck, just get into the initial setup and change it to a two way instead of a three way setup...

[_S7V7N_]

Everything is looking Great D. Just stopping by to say " whuddupp". Sq what's been good man, when you gonna make a trip down to TX. I moved down here at the end of July and am having a Blast, they have quite a few shows coming up .


Yo SQ have you guys ran into any of these yet at the shop ? Crunch CRBT-4 I'm thinking bout grabbing me a pair just to play around with.




# 3-3/4" Full Range High Output Horn Tweeter
# Power Handling

* Peak: 250 watts
* RMS: 100 watts

# 1" Bullet type tweeter
# 1" Extreme high temperature kapton voice coil
# Machined die cast aluminum enclosure
# 25mm x 7mm NdFeb magnet structure
# 4 Ohm impedance
# Sensitivity: 100 dB
# Frequency Response: 1850-21,000 Hz