2zr MAF amperage draw, help needed

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by myfirstyota

Yea if it wasn't winter is have just cracked open the fusebox and looked but cause it's cold, just wanted to see if anyone knew off the top of their head

You mean you don't like wrenching in pouring freezing rain?!

[atomic_hoji]

Originally Posted by tmontague

You mean you don't like wrenching in pouring freezing rain?!

^ this. Then 80-90 kph winds later in the week kept me from bothering with it.. ambition lost to necessity. lol

Just a confirmation for the 3rd gen. I did drag my butt outside and check today, and basically any of the open spots in the main junction box are 12V constant supply, unless you move onto the ... "cartridge thingy" (?!)... that has the EFI fuses and IGN fuses. Some (not all) of those are ignition supplied, so I moved the MAF fuse tap onto one of those, then re-checked. Noticed that the shutdown current was bouncing a bit, but down to 150-180mA or so, then after 60s dropped to about 100mA. Looking back now, this jives with what I found with the MAF disconnected.

I did try removing my battery supplied constant power to the Valvematic to see if it would further reduce it, and found that it made no difference. I imagined that it would have been keeping something energized, but I guess until requested to change position, the Valvematic draws nothing for current.

Regarding using a fuse tap vs. wiring - I don't recall if I posted the picture, but pry open and look at the back-side of the main junction box - it's a rats nest of epic proportions in there! And to power a slot you need the correct terminal to clip into the junction box as well - the fuse slots are not the same as regular connector terminals so far as I can tell. I thought about it, then decided to use the fuse tap to "make it work first, then tidy later" and to be honest the fuse tap is working just fine.

Also, just to clarify, fuse taps wire in parallel. The circuit you tap remains one branch, and the new tap parallels a new branch off the supply side of the original circuit. There is no change to the downstream (device) side of the circuit you tapped off of as it remains fused with it original fuse and downstream there are no changes. The upstream wiring and any upstream fuse will now have to handle whatever load you have tapped onto the circuit though. In our case, if the upstream side is powered off the 20A Main EFI circuit, the MAF is now added it's current load to the circuit wiring you tapped and the Main EFI fuse; which I believe the MAF is downstream of the Main EFI fuse anyway in factory setup. The only risk is to the supply wire of the circuit you tapped.

I'll have to have another look as to why my 'base' draw is still around 100mA when I get an opportunity - maybe March break if the weather is nice.. get the car washed, badged, and tidy some little bits. Meantime, thanks again Trevor for raising the issue and chasing it down!

-- Adam