Warning - Broken control arm bolt! - Page 24 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Whiplash · 07-04-2018, 02:27 PM

Post.

dogsridewith · 07-04-2018, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whiplash

Post.

exactly

Whiplash · 07-05-2018, 07:30 AM

I have some reading to do.

tmontague · 05-01-2019, 09:38 PM

bumping up an old thread. I was installing some subframe collars today and pulled my control arm bolts I replace 3-4 years ago. I hadn't pulled them since 3 or so years ago. Well they look brand new with zero rust on them. All I did was coat the thread and the neck of the bolt in anti seize and then coat the neck in marine grade grease. The grease squeezes out when you tighten the bolts back up but that stuff is sticky and keep the water that pools in the area from contacting the metal.

apparently this is a great method of keeping the rust away.

this is after it was wiped off, it was crazy dirty.

Torque spec on the bolt is 118 ft/lbs

*take note* the bolt neck is what corrodes and snaps off so anti seize on the threads is a good idea for corrosion resistance but it will not fix the underlying rust issue with these bolts. Coat the bolt neck in marine great which is sticky as heck and will not allow water to sit against the metal and corrode it

komichal · 05-02-2019, 02:46 AM

Ah, thanks for reviving this thread. It reminds me that I need to check it on mine as well.
I have no idea whether my car can have this problem or not (VIN code: VNKKL98310A....) So it seems I have to go for visual inspection.
Local winters are salty so I may have some issue with this.

kenora · 02-11-2020, 05:12 PM

well it looks like I did some house cleaning and got rid of the steering rack bolt pics but here are the LCA bolts... the passenger side shaft has eroded (rusted away) more that the other but I'm glad I'm changing them..
If some needs to see the steering rack bolts I can take another pic ... I saved the bolts to show friends the crap Toyota put in these cars..

myfirstyota · 02-13-2020, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenora

well it looks like I did some house cleaning and got rid of the steering rack bolt pics but here are the LCA bolts... the passenger side shaft has eroded (rusted away) more that the other but I'm glad I'm changing them..
If some needs to see the steering rack bolts I can take another pic ... I saved the bolts to show friends the crap Toyota put in these cars..

I'm very impressed you were able to get the rack bolts out and replaced without dropping the subframe. Or did I miss that step?

kenora · 02-24-2020, 08:56 AM

that is correct... the sub frame doesn't need to come out..

I needed to removed the drivers side inner tie rod and boot and then wiggle the rack out the passenger side.. it takes a bit of twist and turn and about 5 minutes but out she came...
on reinstall it goes in the same way... the inner tie rod is installed after the rack is back on..

ex-x-fire · 08-23-2020, 05:54 PM

I was checking the LCA bolts on a new to me 09, I got the bolts out ok, not to rusty but rusty dust fell out. The metal sleeve of the bushing seemed way over sized for the bolt. Anyone remember this being the case?

05-01-2019, 09:38 PM	#4
tmontague View User's Garage Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Caledonia Ont. Posts: 2,930	bumping up an old thread. I was installing some subframe collars today and pulled my control arm bolts I replace 3-4 years ago. I hadn't pulled them since 3 or so years ago. Well they look brand new with zero rust on them. All I did was coat the thread and the neck of the bolt in anti seize and then coat the neck in marine grade grease. The grease squeezes out when you tighten the bolts back up but that stuff is sticky and keep the water that pools in the area from contacting the metal. apparently this is a great method of keeping the rust away. this is after it was wiped off, it was crazy dirty. Torque spec on the bolt is 118 ft/lbs take note the bolt neck is what corrodes and snaps off so anti seize on the threads is a good idea for corrosion resistance but it will not fix the underlying rust issue with these bolts. Coat the bolt neck in marine great which is sticky as heck and will not allow water to sit against the metal and corrode it __________________ No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... Last edited by tmontague; 05-02-2019 at 10:21 AM.

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07-04-2018, 02:27 PM	#1
Whiplash Drives: 2009 Yaris 4DR Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Ontario Posts: 99	Post.

07-05-2018, 07:30 AM	#3
Whiplash Drives: 2009 Yaris 4DR Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Ontario Posts: 99	I have some reading to do.

05-02-2019, 02:46 AM	#5
komichal View User's Garage Drives: Yaris 2007 1.3 2SZFE 64kW Join Date: May 2012 Location: CZ Posts: 339	Ah, thanks for reviving this thread. It reminds me that I need to check it on mine as well. I have no idea whether my car can have this problem or not (VIN code: VNKKL98310A....) So it seems I have to go for visual inspection. Local winters are salty so I may have some issue with this.

02-24-2020, 08:56 AM	#8
kenora Drives: 2009 Yaris LE 5 dr Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Kenora. Ontario, Canada Posts: 45	that is correct... the sub frame doesn't need to come out.. I needed to removed the drivers side inner tie rod and boot and then wiggle the rack out the passenger side.. it takes a bit of twist and turn and about 5 minutes but out she came... on reinstall it goes in the same way... the inner tie rod is installed after the rack is back on..

08-23-2020, 05:54 PM	#9
ex-x-fire Drives: 2010 yaris 3 door hatch Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Sheboygan Falls, Wi. Posts: 551	I was checking the LCA bolts on a new to me 09, I got the bolts out ok, not to rusty but rusty dust fell out. The metal sleeve of the bushing seemed way over sized for the bolt. Anyone remember this being the case?