Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade [Archive] - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

derickveliz2

05-06-2010, 01:01 AM

:redface:

The new wheels look good, but I'm having rubbing issues in the back, and I tried to remove the spacer but it's close to impossible, I'm going to try with a RING-TYPE COIL SPRING STABILIZER

http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/sku/images/large/I_840661_CL_1.jpg

to see if I can lift and stiff the rear a little bit, I'm going to need it any way to take care of the extra weight of the subwoofer box and the deadening material added to the car. This will be a temporary fix until I get coilovers.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9494.jpg

I got to go back and do some more deadening.
:w00t:

Emerge

05-07-2010, 04:14 AM

Just seeing all the work you have done tires me!

derickveliz2

05-07-2010, 10:48 AM

Just seeing all the work you have done tires me!

I'm exhausted too, last night I went straight to bed... :frown: but "When The Going Gets Tough The Tough Get Going"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35YivWEs3zw

The good things is that every time I treat a section the results just get better and better.

But it's hard with 50-60 hrs of work per week, a house to take care and the most important a Family to LOVE.

I took a bunch of pictures to create this panorama of my house as I was leaving to work this morning: (may 7, 2010)

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Los%20Veliz-Baldizon/CasitaMayo72010.jpg

And here we are... me and my family. (Natalia will be born on July 8th) I have to finish this project before that!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Los%20Veliz-Baldizon/DSC_9445.jpg

talnlnky

05-07-2010, 01:06 PM

good pictures... i like the house, add 3 acres out back with a tiny barn for horses, and my Fiancee would force me to make you an offer... hehe.

Herbicidal

05-07-2010, 01:14 PM

Great looking family! I like your home and surrounding property. It looks very peaceful. :smile:

Emerge

05-07-2010, 02:24 PM

I would love to do this to my car, or, better yet, have this done to my car. But, I can't imagine myself doing this. It looks so damn tedious.

derickveliz2

05-07-2010, 02:58 PM

.:biggrin:

Thanks talnlnky and Herb. There is a horse farm about 1 mile south from home (cows, ponies, chicken, skunks, BEARS, moose, deer, etc, etc) and a lake down the hill around the block...

[that is my son, playing in the sand...]

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs257.ash1/18453_1302824803479_1016233722_30915556_8151910_n. jpg

Yes it's very peaceful! guess who is the one going to be LOUD! just kidding I don't drive with the music at MAX. well... some times! jeje

Emerge, this is a great experience, I would do it again and again, just to enjoy a quiet ride, waiting for a good stereo system to massage my ears, body and soul.

On the other hand... Yes there is a lot of WORK

.
:thumbsup:

talnlnky

05-07-2010, 05:46 PM

centrysis

05-07-2010, 06:02 PM

derickveliz2

05-07-2010, 06:17 PM

Derick, because of your install i'm giving the MLV a second thought. How much of a help do you really think the MLV is? I know the MLV stands for Mass loaded vinyl, does it feel heavy, like there actually is some mass to it?

In my install I basically have 2 layers of raammat on the floors, and then on the side panels & wheel wells. Then I have a layer of ensolite foam (1/8" thick). I have yet to do the front doors, and barely touched the firewall. I plan on picking up more mat for the doors & firewall, some CLD tiles for the doors (behind the speakers)... but am really considering the MLV too. I wouldn't want to drop the money, or re-gut my car to do the entire car in MLV, but I could justify doing my doors, firewall, and driver/front passenger foot area with it.

any advice. I'm all about bang for the buck, but would like a little more road noise eliminated. Would the MLV give me much of a increase in sound reduction do you think?

For a quiet ride MLV is your best friend, it's heavy (1/8" thick- 1sf = 1 pound ) [I did put it on the scale and yes it's heavy] It's a really good way to block the noise.

I did a little experiment on the left front wheel well... I put almost 3 layers of MAT and called done! I drove for 3 days like this then I put the MLV on top! WOW! the noise was gone!

I've been searching around and I see all kids of cars go with MLV to make their cars less noisy, (BMW, AUDI, other TOYOTAS and many more) MLV may not be as good as 3 or 4 layer of MATT when the GOAL is SPL, but for a quiet drive blocking external noise in the FIREWALL, DOORS and FLOORS is really GOOD

In architecture/construction we use it a lot, when using Lead is not possible to make sound barriers.

Using all 3 layers (1.-MAT or CLD Tiles = control resonances, 2.- CCF = Absorb high frequency noise and cushion rattles, 3.- MLV=Sound Barrier) makes this system work really good.

It's like using the right tool for the job

MY 2 cts. if I had to do it again, I would do it exactly the same way!

.
:thumbsup:

Herbicidal

05-07-2010, 06:23 PM

I was describing to my wife all the different layers of sound deadening material you're doing and she said it sounds like you're creating a mobil sensory deprivation chamber! :laugh:

talnlnky

05-07-2010, 06:24 PM

For a quiet ride MLV is your best friend, it's heavy (1/8" thick- 1sf = 1 pound ) [I did put it on the scale and yes it's heavy] It's a really good way to block the noise.

I did a little experiment on the left front wheel well... I put almost 3 layers of MAT and called done! I drove for 3 days like this then I put the MLV on top! WOW! the noise was gone!

I've been searching around and I see all kids of cars go with MLV to make their cars less noisy, (BMW, AUDI, other TOYOTAS and many more) MLV may not be as good as 3 or 4 layer of MATT when the GOAL is SPL, but for a quiet drive blocking external noise in the FIREWALL, DOORS and FLOORS is really GOOD

In architecture/construction we use it a lot, when using Lead is not possible to make sound barriers.

Using all 3 layers (1.-MAT or CLD Tiles = control resonances, 2.- CCF = Absorb high frequency noise and cushion rattles, 3.- MLV=Sound Barrier) makes this system work really good.

It's like using the right tool for the job

MY 2 cts. if I had to do it again, I would do it exactly the same way!

.
:thumbsup:

Ok... Looks like i'll be buying some MLV in the future. Thanks.
40sq ft of MLV, bout 4-6 CLD's, and another 40-60sq ft of mat and I should be done

EDIT: I'm actually contemplating foregoing any mat on the firewall, and just doing MLV alone.
40sq ft of MLV Then around 25sq ft of mat, and 4 CLD's. that would really cut my costs. I'd be down to around $150, before I was over $200.

derickveliz2

05-08-2010, 02:15 AM

I was describing to my wife all the different layers of sound deadening material you're doing and she said it sounds like you're creating a mobil sensory deprivation chamber! :laugh:

I wish! but sounds COOL ..............:w00t:

and Talking about layers I just added one MORE!

Radiant Barrier (http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Insulation-Radiant-Barrier/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xnkZbedf/R-100012574/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)

I'm putting this along the center channel and other areas after applying CLD Tiles and before CCF adn MLV, I've driving with no center console, bare metal and I can tell it gets HOT!:evil: the other day I had a Hershey chocolate about 4 inches above, and it melted!

I guess this heat going inside the cabin it's good in winter, but not good in summer, any way one more barrier to make the noisy work harder!

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/0a/0a06c370-6a5c-45db-a8ba-25e9c62be107_300.jpg

I'm actually contemplating foregoing any mat on the firewall, and just doing MLV alone.
40sq ft of MLV Then around 25sq ft of mat, and 4 CLD's. that would really cut my costs. I'd be down to around $150, before I was over $200.

Yeah! Sounds like a plan! :thumbsup:

.
:smile:

derickveliz2

05-08-2010, 02:25 AM

On my way back home from work I stopped at the Toyota dealer and look what they had for me... one just like this one!

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/DSCN3762.jpg

derickveliz2

05-09-2010, 01:17 AM

Ok... Looks like i'll be buying some MLV in the future. Thanks.
40sq ft of MLV, bout 4-6 CLD's, and another 40-60sq ft of mat and I should be done

EDIT: I'm actually contemplating foregoing any mat on the firewall, and just doing MLV alone.
40sq ft of MLV Then around 25sq ft of mat, and 4 CLD's. that would really cut my costs. I'd be down to around $150, before I was over $200.

One more thing about CLD Tiles... they only work if you apply them to bare metal in the middle of a flat area.

D.
:w00t:

Emerge

05-09-2010, 06:17 PM

talnlnky

05-10-2010, 12:02 AM

One more thing about CLD Tiles... they only work if you apply them to bare metal in the middle of a flat area.

D.
:w00t:
yeah, thats the plan, on the door to help keep speaker vibrations down. I'll have either an 8" midbass that throws 12mm one way, or a 6.5" midbass that goes 13mm one way. Either way there will be a lot of pressure in my doors.

talnlnky

05-10-2010, 12:05 AM

It's the hard work that scares me. I know I'll be very motivated to start, but finishing the project is a concern. I feel that this disdain for hard work is something impeding my generation. I wish I wasn't spoiled so much as a child.

Question:

If the material is that heavy do you foresee MPG being affected adversely?

A sub box, Sub & Amp weigh more than the sound deadening does... Currently I think I have like 35lbs of deadener... by the time i'm done i'll be looking at around 60lbs.

derickveliz2

05-10-2010, 12:19 AM

Question:

If the material is that heavy do you foresee MPG being affected adversely?

I may end up with more than 90 pounds from Deadening, it's like carrying that model all the time in your car.

So far on Friday I filled up with 9 gallons and exactly 400 miles, aka 44.44 MPG

Not bad!

.
:thumbup::thumbsup::thumbup::clap::clap:

Emerge

05-10-2010, 01:56 AM

I may end up with more than 90 pounds from Deadening, it's like carrying that model all the time in your car.

So far on Friday I filled up with 9 gallons and exactly 400 miles, aka 44.44 MPG

Not bad!

.
:thumbup::thumbsup::thumbup::clap::clap:

I like the sound of 44 MPG!

A sub box, Sub & Amp weigh more than the sound deadening does... Currently I think I have like 35lbs of deadener... by the time i'm done i'll be looking at around 60lbs.

Good point. I didn't even think about that.

derickveliz2

05-10-2010, 11:11 AM

1 GOOD TIP for Manual Transmission!

I added synthetic silicone grease to all the moving parts at the stick, and if you ever have access to this area DO IT! makes changing gears feel so soft and QUITE!

(o:

D.

Herbicidal

05-10-2010, 11:35 AM

I may end up with more than 90 pounds from Deadening, it's like carrying that model all the time in your car.

So far on Friday I filled up with 9 gallons and exactly 400 miles, aka 44.44 MPG

Not bad!

.
:thumbup::thumbsup::thumbup::clap::clap:

I'm personally looking forward to the increase in gas mileage once I'm done sound deadening my car! I've never seen above 37mpg, but then again, my right foot is definitely heavier than my left. :tongue: Oh, and where do you get one of those "models"??? Although that may not go over real well with my wife! :biggrin:

derickveliz2

05-10-2010, 01:42 PM

yeah, thats the plan, on the door to help keep speaker vibrations down. I'll have either an 8" midbass that throws 12mm one way, or a 6.5" midbass that goes 13mm one way. Either way there will be a lot of pressure in my doors.

If I understand correctly you are going to use the interior of the door as a woofer's box, right?

If that's the case I would add lot's of MAT specially in all the corners and on top of the CLD Tiles. It's not deadening the door any more, it's about a door to become a speaker box.

That gives me an Idea... I I could do that too! but then I need mid-rage speakers! where do I put them?

I'm going to end up begging for custom enclosures in the kick panels or up on the pillars. Should I try to make them????? :confused: :confused:

So many options, this will never end.

derickveliz2

05-10-2010, 01:49 PM

I'm personally looking forward to the increase in gas mileage once I'm done sound deadening my car! I've never seen above 37mpg, but then again, my right foot is definitely heavier than my left. :tongue: Oh, and where do you get one of those "models"??? Although that may not go over real well with my wife! :biggrin:

I see you have lot's of upgrades :w00t:

2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs,
TRD anti-sway bar. TRD cold air intake. Tinted rear windows. Lenso
Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal
ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Megan Racing header. Vios badge.
Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom
center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace

I bet all that makes your car look FAST but also your right foot much heavier!

Also the diameter of the tires play a big roll in MPG, When I have the smaller tires 23.1 inches I get 40 MPG with the OEM size 23.7 inches I get 44 MPG

And of course, driving habits make a big difference, besides my commute is 100 miles a day 85% it's highway. 15% are backroads.

Herbicidal

05-10-2010, 04:23 PM

I see you have lot's of upgrades :w00t:

2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs,
TRD anti-sway bar. TRD cold air intake. Tinted rear windows. Lenso
Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal
ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Megan Racing header. Vios badge.
Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom
center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace

I bet all that makes your car look FAST but also your right foot much heavier!

Also the diameter of the tires play a big roll in MPG, When I have the smaller tires 23.1 inches I get 40 MPG with the OEM size 23.7 inches I get 44 MPG

And of course, driving habits make a big difference, besides my commute is 100 miles a day 85% it's highway. 15% are backroads.

Thanks! It's been a fun car to mod. :thumbsup: My Toyota mechanic buddy drove it the other day and said it rides and handles like an MR2. Some day I'd love to get it on the dyno and see what the numbers are to the ground, just for grins and giggles.
:burnrubber:

My commute is 34 miles round trip and 95% surface streets, 5% freeway. When I put 205's on it, the mileage dropped by about 3 mpg. Oh well. Not a big deal to me. My Tundra get's about 13 mpg, so I'm waaaay ahead of that!

Your Yaris looks very sharp with the new tire/rim combo! Nice! :clap:

derickveliz2

05-10-2010, 05:17 PM

Thanks!

Your Yaris looks very sharp with the new tire/rim combo! Nice! :clap:

Thanks!!!:wink:,

but I'm a little upset :mad: because I can't take out the spacers. With the spacers the rear tires rub :frown: so I'm driving a silly car with black wheel in front and silver wheels in back, I really don't like it! :cry: :cry: :cry:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9493.jpg

Herbicidal

05-10-2010, 06:08 PM

So did you add the spacers to push the rear wheels out further? If I recall, they are not very thick, 10mm? What kind of material are the spacers made from?

derickveliz2

05-10-2010, 06:57 PM

So did you add the spacers to push the rear wheels out further? If I recall, they are not very thick, 10mm? What kind of material are the spacers made from?

Yes! the wheels are 10mm further out!

They are made of "6061-T6 aircraft grade aluminum" this is the LINK (http://www.penguingarage.com/HubSpacers/Spacer.html)

http://www.penguingarage.com/HubSpacers/Images/Spacer.png

http://www.penguingarage.com/HubSpacers/Images/Installed.png

There was some rust facing the inner circle that got stock, I hit it with a sharp screw driver and a soft head hammer but didn't move a thing.
.
.
:iono::iono::iono::iono::iono::iono::iono::iono::i ono:

.
:cry:

Herbicidal

05-10-2010, 07:21 PM

Thanks for the visual...so is the spacer stuck to the back of the hub or to the surface of the axle side? I'm not clear on that part.

Herbicidal

05-11-2010, 12:11 AM

I'm guessing it's stuck to the axle side. If that's the case, I would suggest a little heat from one of those propane torches. Like one of THESE (http://www.lowes.com/pd_299446-717-2880088_4294822048_4294937087?productId=3133747). Carefully heat up the spacer and only the spacer, then try to tap it off. If that doesn't work, let it fully cool and try soaking the back of the spacer where it's making contact, with something like PB Blaster. See this LINK (http://autorepair.about.com/od/tools/fr/PB-REVIEW.htm). Looks like it can be used with some heat too. Wish I was closer to help you out. Good luck!

derickveliz2

05-11-2010, 01:11 AM

Thanks Herb,

I'm going to dig in a little bit more and see if I can do it with heat. I'm going to try again this weekend.

This is the LINK (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18092)for the installation so you get a better idea.

Thanks a lot, any information here is appreciated.

D.

Herbicidal

05-11-2010, 11:33 AM

You're welcome. :thumbsup: I posted a reply in that other thread. My suggestion at this moment would be to squirt in some PB Blaster and let it work on the rust until the weekend.

derickveliz2

05-11-2010, 11:48 AM

You're welcome. :thumbsup: I posted a reply in that other thread. My suggestion at this moment would be to squirt in some PB Blaster and let it work on the rust until the weekend.

Thanks, I'll stop by a hardware store and pick up some PB Blaster tonight!

Also I got this:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/sku/images/large/I_840661_CL_1.jpg

from Loren, and these are the instruction he gave me:

"Just jack up the car and squeeze on in on each rear spring. Will raise the ride height a little, and by removing an active coil from the spring, also raise the spring rate."

My rear springs are not holding well the extra weight, and adding woofers, box and Amps! you can tell on the pictures that the rear is lower than the front, and been so soft (NF210s) tires tuck inside wheel well very easy and rubs, so this may help a little bit! We'll see how it goes.

Thanks!
:thumbsup:

I'm sorry to make a right turn out of the topic here, but we'll continue on our project...

I'm almost done with the floor, but pilot's area, and let me tell you that the noise makes it's way! so I need to make sure to get all leaks as possible, so for some one who only want's to do a portion of the treatment, I would suggest to do the DOORS, then WHEEL WELLS, at least with the doors treated you will improve the sound of your speakers, block outside noise but the most wonderful feeling is when you close your doors! THUMP, THUMP, very nice every time you slam your doors.

D.

Emerge

05-11-2010, 06:27 PM

I talked to a guy in one of my classes and he says his place does sound deadening by using dynamat. How does this compare to the methods and materials you are using?

derickveliz2

05-11-2010, 07:00 PM

I talked to a guy in one of my classes and he says his place does sound deadening by using dynamat. How does this compare to the methods and materials you are using?

dynamat it's what we have been calling here "MAT" maybe a little heavier than the RaamMat but same family.

For SPL is good to cover every single surface of your car, it doesn't compare to the method I'm using to block the noise that penetrates the inside of the cabin. (remember that for SPL competitions you are been tested in NO motion)

Applying many layers of MAT it does reduce the noise levels similar to the process I'm using.

The Car Audio industry is one of the only ones that still uses "MAT" aka dyamat, as a primary material for deadening, and that is because of Marketing, but in other industries I found 3 common factors:

1. take care of resonances ... by using (Constrained Layer Damper) CLD Tiles 25% of the area is enough, covering all the surfaces with "Mat" may be use but not necessary unless you are going for SPL

2. help cushion high frequencies that still goes through metal ... Close Cell Foam also used to prevent rattles between panels

3. Sound Barrier ... MLV Mass Loaded Vinyl to block exterior noise (and it's cheaper than "lead")

My goal with this process is to reduce the outside noise as much as possible specially at highway speeds, and in some places like front doors improve acoustical environment for speakers.

I hope it helps!

.
:thumbsup:

Emerge

05-12-2010, 04:24 AM

Very much so! Thank you!

derickveliz2

05-12-2010, 10:37 AM

.:smile:

The Rubbing issues are gone (90%) but at least I don't have to drive my car with black wheels in front and silver wheels in back, feels so good now!

:thumbsup:

More info HERE (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=470997&postcount=600)

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9578.jpg

D.

.

derickveliz2

05-12-2010, 10:37 AM

Very much so! Thank you!

You are welcome!

D.

derickveliz2

05-13-2010, 02:09 AM

I did more work on the floor, removed some OEM deadening material behind pilots seat, added 2 CLD Tiles some of that heat barrier insulation (since I have lots of left overs why not?) and 1/4 CCF. I left the MLV at work so I will cut that tomorrow.

Picture soon.

D.

typicaljawaiian808

05-13-2010, 05:45 AM

For speakers:
GM-X1024 65Wx4
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pio/pe/vgn/images/portal/cit_3442/33371gm-x1024.jpg

For Woofer(s):
PRS-X720 400Wx1
http://www.pioneer.nl/images/products/cardsp/pioneer/1011798137516prs-x720_detailpage.jpg

Where can I find more information about "Big 3 Upgrade"?

Thank you,

D.

Just check it out on youtube. Thats where I learned to do mine:thumbsup:

typicaljawaiian808

05-13-2010, 05:48 AM

talnlnky

05-13-2010, 12:40 PM

Big three is a good idea for anybody with aftermarket electronics that pull a decent amount of amperage. If you're running more than 100amps worth in fuses on your amplifiers... it's really a good idea to upgrade the big three... mainly the big two is what most people need to upgrade.

1: Power cable
2: Battery ground cable
3: Alt charging cable

2 & 3 are the forgotten misfits.

upgrading to a 2awg or 1/0awg on both of them should help your voltage stay more constant, and decrease the amount of current you lose in the wire due to heat & resistance. Every little bit helps your alternator work less.

derickveliz2

05-13-2010, 12:50 PM

Could any body list the materials for the Big 3! like how much cable to buy? how long? Terminal connectors and tools!

Thanks!

and we are right into our topic (sound system upgrade)

D.

_S7V7N_

05-13-2010, 01:04 PM

Big 3 Tutorial

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee171/dark_mess1ah/Yaris%20Install/th_CarAudio101-TheBig3Tutorial.jpg (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee171/dark_mess1ah/Yaris%20Install/?action=view&current=CarAudio101-TheBig3Tutorial.flv)

derickveliz2

05-13-2010, 04:42 PM

OEM deadening material

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9588.jpg

Taking a break!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9589.jpg

Clean!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9591-1.jpg

2 CLD Tiles.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9592.jpg

Some of that Radiant heat insulator...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9594.jpg

1/4" CCF and ready for MLV

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9595.jpg

With no MLV to work last night I started playing around with the amps, the 3rd amp will be here soon, maybe I'll put it under the passengers seat? or in line with these 2. I didn't realize they where so big and heavy :confused:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9596.jpg

This one will provide power to midrange and tweeters...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9597.jpg

PS. I will try not to forget the MLV tonight.

derickveliz2

05-14-2010, 03:48 AM

Wow 2:30 am!!!

I put the MLV over the floor between back seats and front seats, all what's left is the passenger's side, (it's going to be noisy in that area, I now, I can feel it, we'll see how it feels on my way to work). The hardest part was removing the back seat (again); to slide and overlap the layer of MLV with the one that comes from the trunk to create a continues sound barrier all over the floor area. I also wanted to reach for all the RCA cables I had under the MLV going back to the trunk, (plan A was to have the amps in the trunk) plan B, thanks to sqcomp I'm going to put them on the floor in front of the back seats (that's the area I treated tonight). This will bring the floor up! let say 4 or 5 inches. I don't care only my 3 year son goes in the back seat any way.

I'll upload pictures tomorrow, or should I say "later" (o:

D.

I'm running low in CCF and MLV, I still

DailyDriver

05-14-2010, 09:28 AM

When you project is completed, I would love to know how much sound deadening you put into your car. cld=(sqft) ccf=(sqft) and mlv=(sqft) and any other materials... adhesives, velcro, anything else.

Thanks for the thread!!

derickveliz2

05-14-2010, 04:29 PM

Sure, so far the list of Materials goes like this:

CLD Tiles = 91 aka 38 SF

MLV = 95 SF

1/4 CCF = 56 SF

1/8 CCF = 56 SF

RAAMmat BXT = 45 SF

Ensolite IUO Peal and Stick = 14 SF

Reflectix = about 9 SF

Industrial Strength Velcro = about 4 pieces (1"x2" each)

D.

derickveliz2

05-14-2010, 05:27 PM

.
These are the pictures I took last night, Basically is the MLV over the floor on top of the CLD Tiles, Reflectix and 1/4 CCF.

I had to take the back seat out and loose the structure to slide the MLV under the layer that comes from the trunk and goes under the rear seat.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9603.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9605.jpg

I've been using Mat to hold the overlaps in place, I'm supposed to glue them, but since I'm overlapping 4 to 5 inches it's OK to do it this way, it's better if I ever need to get something down there, Like the RCA cables I had laying down previously towards the trunk for the amps, I just lifted the layer of MLV and pull the cables (o:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9606.jpg

The OEM carpet goes on top.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9608.jpg

DailyDriver

05-15-2010, 10:33 AM

Thanks for all the pictures!! Within the next couple of months i will be starting my car. These help a lot.

derickveliz2

05-17-2010, 11:07 AM

Thanks for all the pictures!! Within the next couple of months i will be starting my car. These help a lot.

You are welcome,

where in Utah are you?

Derick

derickveliz2

05-17-2010, 12:15 PM

I did a "TEST FIT" of my old subwoofer box that I had in my Tacoma (hey I'm a TACO-YARIS)

Bad news for me,... the box is TOO HEAVY! )o:

So until I upgrade my suspension I'm going to build a box and put only one of this Solobarics, The box will be very small (per manufacture specs... 12x12x12 To end up with 0.66 cu. ft) this is the LINK (http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/SolodMan.pdf) for more info about the box and subs. (note that these are a little old now but they are good).

My wife is going to love this, lots of space in the trunk! (amps will be behind front seats) so nothing else in the trunk and the little subwoofer box with 10" woofer should be very easy to remove!

Here is a picture of trunk with my old subwoofer box [man that's a VERY HEAVY BOX!] My back is in pain today :iono:. Hey I also have a 10" bazooka tube that I'm going to put in my wifes car (another Toyota) that I can use for testing or until I get to build the new box. LINK for 10" Bazooka (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ffCJYhz434U/learn/reviews/20040713/subs_comparison.html?page=5)

:thumbsup:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9610.jpg
:burnrubber:

sqcomp

05-17-2010, 12:34 PM

I love those solo D's. Have fun with those.

derickveliz2

05-17-2010, 12:40 PM

I love those solo D's. Have fun with those.

Thanks!

I will!

sqcomp... don't forget about my EM100's :thumbsup:

D.

talnlnky

05-17-2010, 12:49 PM

derickveliz2

05-17-2010, 01:07 PM

I was about to suggest you doing dual 10's in glass boxes on each side of the trunk... but then remembered your wife is due in the near future..... if only you had a little more time, you could make some cool glass boxes that fit perfectly in those side nooks in the trunk.

I've been thinking about that too.

I don't really need to be 100% done by July, so I probably will end up with something that satisfies me for a while and then in Fall I could start working on this IDEA! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Sounds great!

Thanks
Derick

derickveliz2

05-17-2010, 03:51 PM

:smile:
Look what I got in the mail today!!!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9620.jpg

This will go after the head unit.
:burnrubber:

derickveliz2

05-17-2010, 06:46 PM

.
Ok, so this is my Audio plan for now "to start with", until I learn something else or find out I can do this or that, please I'm open to suggestions

Thanks

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/6xsSystem1copy.jpg

.
:thumbsup:

.

fmjhp594

05-19-2010, 10:22 AM

OEM deadening material

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9588.jpg

So just wondering, why did you take the OEM deadener off/out? Why not just put pieces of tile over it? I thought the more material you have to stop sound the better right...?

Thanks,
Mike

derickveliz2

05-19-2010, 10:55 AM

So just wondering, why did you take the OEM deadener off/out? Why not just put pieces of tile over it? I thought the more material you have to stop sound the better right...?

Thanks,
Mike

Hi Mike,

The OEM material is very chip (bad quality), will dry very quickly and eventually "Crack"; like in a previous post (back in the trunk section) where I found OEM deadening dry and cracking, that won't be good under the area treated.

"pieces of tile over it?"
Tile aka CLD Tiles are not designed to block or stop the noise, the purpose of the CLD Tiles is to control "Resonance" on metal panels. And they have to be applied directly to metal. MLV is the material I'm using to block/stop unwanted noise, the foam also creates a small barrier but is more an absorbing material also used to prevent rattling between panels.

If I was going to use only mat(tiles) for deadening I would have to put more than 2 or 3 layers to get the same results I'm getting with MLV. It's not bad it also would help for SPL, but will increase my work load. And like I mention at the begining of this thread, I'm only spending 2 to 4 hours a week. (well some times I'm lucky and I spend more time). But applying many layers of Mat to a car is time consuming, lots of work.

I hope It helps.

D.
:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

05-19-2010, 12:23 PM

.
I'm trying to pull together my HU and other parts together, here are a couple of shots with the HU, adapter and bezel.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9623.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9625.jpg

.

derickveliz2

05-20-2010, 01:31 PM

Last night I took the panel that goes on top of the seatbelt (passengers side) and treated a little bit, I've been driving with out the panel and there is some annoying noise coming from the inside the structure, I describe it as a small guitar reverbering all the road noise into the cabin, I've thinking on how to approach this little piece and this is what I did:

Stuffed the inside with poly-fill and regular foam, stick some Mat and little pieces of CLD Tiles to the metal, covered with ensolite (the sticky one) then I cut to shape some MLV and started cutting with a knife to make it fit inside the panel.

This morning I was very happy with the results, now all the noise is coming from Pilots side and it's driving me crazy so I think this weekend I should take care of that area including the left side of the firewall.

Panel with some Mat + 1/8" CCF / Ensolite / MLV
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9627.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9628.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9629.jpg

This is a close up on for the treatment on this panel.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9641.jpg

This panel was tricky because the seatbelt runs inside!
I did cut a mirror shape piece of MLV for the other side.

Thanks.

D.

derickveliz2

05-26-2010, 10:50 AM

I've been a little quiet lately, not because I wanted but... I've been working 12-16 hours a day on this project that is due next week. BUT....

for the record, I would like to note:

I'm trying to be really honest and here are my observations in the last 2 weeks.... After driving more than 1,300 miles on new wheels and tires I can tell that I lost a couple of points here )o: :iono: how is that? whell some tires make more noise than others
in this case the General Exclaim are not so bad it's not a noisy tire but... I went up from 23.1 inches in diameter to 23.7 this brings the tire closer to the wheel wells, not a big deal but it's noise I can tell it's there and it wasn't there before, and all the noise comes from the
front left of the cabin (untreated area).

New General Exclaim tire:
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9216.jpg

So if you really want the ultimate deadening Yaris, don't upgrade your tires and rims, stay stock with smaller wheels (185/60/15) and better if the Tires you get are designed for fuel economy, rated high milage and of course very quite, one example that
I can speak of are the Good Year Assurance witch I have in my Corolla and they give a confortable ride and very quiet (warranty is 80,000 miles and I can speak about that too).

Good Year Assurance Tire:
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9089.jpg

:thumbsup:

In conclusion I'm sacrifying "looks" for "little noise" we'll see how affects the overal deadening treatment.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9583.jpg

Yesterday I had the opportunity to go to Boston in a brand new Mercedez Benz.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_8993.jpg

so I was so exhited to compare the noise levels. I can say that we are doing the right thing, we can't compare these two vehicles head to head but what has been done here it's working. The noise level in the MB was really nice, my Yaris is close but not the same. All the way up to 55mph every thing seems to be almost the same if I don't rev up the engine on my Yaris, after 55mph all the way up to 80mph the wind noise in the MB is freaking quiet!

I'm sure the windshield on the Yaris is not as good, also I bet MB performs rigurous test in a wind tunel, so yes at 70-80 mph the MB is much quiet than my Yaris, wind noise coming from the windshield is louder and ofcourse 3,500 rpms to keeep up at speed makes the engine louder too.

I'm very satisfied with how everything is coming together, I'm not done with the cabin, and I still have plans to work on the hood and engine compartment.

I will never make my Yaris feel like a Mercedez Benz but the ride may end up been almost as quiet. We'll see.

.

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

.

pennyracer

05-26-2010, 11:39 AM

that is why i chose to stay with a 15" rims the bigger the rim the higher the speed ratting on the tire to retain the like wise size of the stock tire hight you get a harder ride with more road noise . i say the michlin tires has the best ride and lowest noise but dont come cheap .

Herbicidal

05-26-2010, 12:07 PM

There you are Derick! I was hoping everything was OK. Glad to hear it was just work getting in the way. :smile: Personally, I've gone for looks/performance and sacrificed some road noise and mpg's with my tire/rim combo. I'm very happy with the noise reduction results I'm getting and I can always turn up the volume and tune out ANY road noise that way! I also came to realize that I like a "little" road/tire/engine/exhaust noise, I feel more in touch with the car and the driving experience. What I DON'T like is the little interior rattles, vibrations and stuff like that from inside the car. But those are all going away soon!

derickveliz2

05-27-2010, 08:57 PM

I also came to realize that I like a "little" road/tire/engine/exhaust noise, I feel more in touch with the car and the driving experience.

I miss that a lot:redface:,

and it's been hard to get used to:iono:.

But on the other hand makes my commute so comfortable:thumbsup:, can't wait to finish this deadening treatment and start with all the audio install:headbang:. I hope I can get some work done next week. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thum bup::thumbup::thumbup:

.

derickveliz2

05-27-2010, 09:18 PM

I think I should update my video for Yaris World...

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=124130404002868474#

D.

derickveliz2

05-28-2010, 12:58 AM

Dash Mat!!!

Before heading home from work I cleaned the windshield inside/outside and I took out the Ugly Dash Matt and didn't put it back!

For the record: "I really like my Dash Mat now" it does makes a difference, so for people like me with a long commute on the highway, I recommend installing a Dash Mat.

I can tell the difference specially above 55mph.

my 2 cts.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9289.jpg

talnlnky

05-28-2010, 12:42 PM

i'm confused.... So you like the function of the dash mat, but hate the looks? But chose to keep it in the car????

derickveliz2

05-28-2010, 12:56 PM

i'm confused.... So you like the function of the dash mat, but hate the looks? But chose to keep it in the car????

Yes, I like the function of the dash mat, but it's not something I'll put in my car just to protect the dash board, yes it's ugly. Yes it's staying in the car because it's function to reduce wind noise from the windshield.

I've been thinking about the physics behind this phenomenon... and I believe it's because of the size and shape of the windshield and dashboard together and the relationship of the angels between each other promote the noise towards the cabin making it worst that what really is.

Maybe I'm fooling around too much but the Dash Mat is working very good as a noise absorbent material and in favor reducing noise levels inside the cabin.

I don't like the looks, but I like the function! :thumbsup:

D.

DailyDriver

05-29-2010, 11:18 PM

derickveliz2

05-31-2010, 12:07 PM

What brand and material did you go with? i would like to get one also for the very same reasons. I have been thinking about maybe also placing a layer of ccf under it also, to assist with the noise. You seem to notice a difference with just the mat in though?

http://www.global-accessories.com/dashmat/media/logo_ltdedition.gif
http://www.global-accessories.com/dashmat/media/limited_edition.jpg

From:

http://www.global-accessories.com/dashmat/ltdedition.html

I also would like to add some 1/8" CCF under it, but I'm still thinking how I'm going to do it and not deform the dashmat.

D.
:thumbsup:

sqcomp

05-31-2010, 12:18 PM

That dash kit looks strangely familiar...

DailyDriver

05-31-2010, 05:51 PM

thank you, thank you :)

derickveliz2

06-02-2010, 02:28 AM

.
I've been working too much, it's 1:30 am and we are still in the office trying to finish this project, it's due tomorrow at noon, and I'm thinking about all this....

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/hertz_HiEnergy_adv_manual-4.jpg
www.hertzaudiovideo.com

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/hertz_HiEnergy_adv_manual-6.jpg
www.hertzaudiovideo.com

This is so clever, simple and amazing...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DEX-P99RS_InstallationManual0623-2.jpg
www.pioneerelectronics.com

So much to do, so much fun, it just can't get better than this (o:

D.

derickveliz2

06-07-2010, 01:27 PM

.:smile:

Ok, back into my car, even though we had some celebrations at home over the weekend I did the other side of the A pillar (the one that holds the front seat belts)

This is how it looks when you take the panel out...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/242d2ccb.jpg

After some CLD Tiles and Pink insulation material stuck all the way inside...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/cbd97561.jpg

The panel with some Mat and some Ensolite on top...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/4e0964cf.jpg

The panel with a full layer of MLV...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/52435dc5.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/5aeee7db.jpg

Some ensolite on top of the MLV to finish the treatment... BTW I didn't put it on a scale but the trim panel at least double it's weight!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/6b461951.jpg

Next is the left front door and the floor area right under pilot's area and fire wall, followed by the Hood and front fenders (I have no idea how I'm going to accomplish these)

:burnrubber:D.

Herbicidal

06-07-2010, 02:32 PM

Will the panel even fit back on? :eek:

You're a sick, sick man! You need to get yourself some professional help! :biggrin:

_S7V7N_

06-07-2010, 02:37 PM

derickveliz2

06-07-2010, 02:40 PM

Will the panel even fit back on? :eek:

You're a sick, sick man! You need to get yourself some professional help! :biggrin:

Yes, the panels fit perfectly snug and dead!

Hey I have another good one for you:

as I drive about 65 mph on the highway I used to hear/feel the cars/trucks behind me and passing me, now if I don't keep an eye one the rear view mirrors some times I get this "surprise... I'm passing you"!

It's taking a while to get use to :w00t: but...

I like it!

D.

derickveliz2

06-07-2010, 02:46 PM

Be careful stuffing insulation around the seat belt, i remember there being a recall on this, something about the seat belt sparking when it was engaging during a collision and starting a fire, i know my 07 had a recall.

Yes I heard about that!

I Pray that I'll be back safe home to be with my family every day.

And like I used to say about helmets... I'm going to wear it, but I'm not planing in using it!

I hope we are all good!
:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

06-08-2010, 04:42 PM

OK, I had to go and look at the fire wall...

Now I know where is all that noise coming from...

I put 2.5 CLD Tiles in the flat areas to control resonance, and for now I lay down a layer of CCF 1/4" and covered back with the OEM carpet, I need to spend more time in this area so I can lay down the MLV.

Even with only the CLD Tiles and Foam, I can tell the difference, the MLV will really quiet things around in this area, but it's going to be very hard.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/ffa2a78f.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/a754af65.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/1395da92.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/479f4a5e.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/ab00a100.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/7408a9b2.jpg

This is a photo I took this morning when I was taking pictures for a new project...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yarisito/ec880a06.jpg

derickveliz2

06-08-2010, 05:07 PM

.:burnrubber:

At lunch time I removed the panel from the left front door, and put some butyl rope inside and 2 CLD Tiles, this time I'm putting most of it inside of the inner wall (where the speaker is), on the right door I had to trim the MLV a lot to get the panel back in place, so this time I'm taking my precautions.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/80c409c4.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/480bb1ce.jpg
:thumbsup:

sqcomp

06-08-2010, 06:00 PM

D, you ready for some mids?

derickveliz2

06-08-2010, 06:03 PM

:bow:D, you ready for some mids?

:smile:

I'm

.
:bow:

derickveliz2

06-09-2010, 02:10 AM

,:thumbsup:

I work for 2 hours on the front left door... Time consuming

Pictures... soon.

,:cool:

derickveliz2

06-10-2010, 01:31 PM

.
Wires for 6.5 driver, I dislike this task, it's not easy. ..

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/81d1a9df.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/43a86806.jpg

Mat over CLD Tiles inside door...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/07ceccd0.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/bda0bd10.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/053cb9f9.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/1268cd04.jpg

A quick way to make a template to cut the mesh...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/602c3a60.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/d519aea0.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/329e5d17.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/f27669b5.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/ef591ed4.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/23215afb.jpg

I'm running out of Mat; there is a layer of Mat + some CLD Tiles behind the inner wall that we don't see here, I'm trying to save the extra thickness that all these layers make so putting back the panel will not be as painful. And 3 layers of Mat behind where the speaker goes, remember these doors become speaker boxex now for the Mid-bass speakers (I still have to go back to the right door and finish it similar to this door).

It's nice to have the opportunity to drive with the door in different stages, naked is LOUD, and as I progress it tends to be less LOUD, but as it is right now there is a deafening noise that really bothers my left ear after 1 hour of commute.

I don't really need to cover everything, just covering and filling openings. A layer of MLV will go on top after some Ensolite and some CCF over the MLV.

.:thumbsup:

Herbicidal

06-10-2010, 02:03 PM

Excellent job! Aren't the holes in the doors just HUGE?!?! So you pulled the whole wire harness out of the door and body? I didn't even attempt that! Pulled my new wires through the rubber loom with a coathanger, tape and lube. Maybe 10 minutes of cussing (per door) to get it done.

derickveliz2

06-10-2010, 02:09 PM

Alien Mantis

06-10-2010, 05:50 PM

I really envy you guys who are taking the time to run all that sound deadening material. I was too lazy to do that. The Yaris is a noisy little beast. Sound dampening really helps. It's a pain in the ass, but you will be glad you did it when it's all over.

Nice photo of your car. I like the colors, and the nice DoF. Good composition too. Nice clean background with the trees. Good exposure.
The only distracting element is that pole behind your car. A few minutes with the clone brush would take care of that!

:biggrin:

That install diagram gives me wood. A 4-way system with four separate amps, components, and a capable HU to control it all.
The result: phenomenal sound!

derickveliz2

06-10-2010, 06:34 PM

Thanks A.M.,
Yes it's hard
Time consuming
and it's not cheap

I have a passion for photography and every time I have the opportunity I try to give a little special touch. Thanks

Yes the diagram is a 4-way system, same as sqcomp but in English should be phenomenal sound!. after all it's a Pioneer! jeje
.

sqcomp

06-11-2010, 01:28 AM

Bah!

Carrozzeria all the way! LOL! Oh! I've got a system diagram for you guys!

This is Jon Acton's work, he's my man for the diagram.

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/posterREV3.jpg

derickveliz2

06-11-2010, 11:18 AM

Bah!

Carrozzeria all the way! LOL! Oh! I've got a system diagram for you guys!

This is Jon Acton's work, he's my man for the diagram.

That looks awesome,

I know the amount of work that goes into graphics [Hey that's kind of what I do at work]. Once I get done with deadening and sound system upgrade I'll make my own diagram. Very similar to yours but only one battery, One 10" Kicker Solo-Baric woofer, 6 inch mid-bass instead of 8 inches, 3 inc mid-range instead of 4, a smaller Pioneer Premier Tweeter and my amps are Pioneer and not as big as yours! in other words mine is a smaller version of your system but in English. Jeje

I rather have my HU say "CARROZERIA" instead of "Pioneer" :cry:

Looks GOOD!

.
:w00t:

sqcomp

06-11-2010, 04:47 PM

I can't believe I didn't post ribs of your mids! I have the pics...i'll post then for you tonight.

derickveliz2

06-11-2010, 05:04 PM

I can't believe I didn't post ribs of your mids! I have the pics...i'll post then for you tonight.

YEAH!!!

.:burnrubber:

derickveliz2

06-11-2010, 06:20 PM

That reminds me that I'm going to be posting my HU and EQ in the FS forum soon, but will post it here before just for the records but PM me if you are interested...

:wub: It's sad to see them go :cry::cry::cry:

but I have to make space for the rest of the gang!

Pioneer DEH-835R

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/4SALE/e4a57a21.jpg

Pioneer EQ-6500

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/4SALE/1218f4ce.jpg

.:wub:

Alien Mantis

06-11-2010, 07:03 PM

Oh! I've got a system diagram for you guys!
This is Jon Acton's work, he's my man for the diagram.

Yeah, that is one sexy diagram.

A visual formula for high-end audio.

( As I stare at the diagram..... I see dollar-signs floating around my head. )

:smoking:

sqcomp

06-12-2010, 02:17 AM

What? Are you thinking of coming up to steal my junk? LOL!

Actually, it's not that expensive for what he's giving me; future upgrades are free, he's giving me a .tiff and the photoshop file as well as keeping a backup.

...Oh yeah, here you go D...

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/CIMG1821.jpg

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/CIMG1824.jpg

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/CIMG1822.jpg

^If I didn't know better, it looks so VERY close to a subwoofer...

Alien Mantis

06-12-2010, 04:18 PM

What? Are you thinking of coming up to steal my junk? LOL!

lol...... NO!

I don't even know where you live. Not to mention, I don't steal.

What I meant was, I look at that diagram, and I see components that cost a small fortune. Add up the cost of all the gear you are putting in that Yaris.
Have you done that yet?

I don't mean what YOU got it for, I mean "regular market price" for the average "joe" if he walked in off the street to buy it.

I have no idea what Audison Hertz stuff costs, that stuff is out of my price range, so no point in me researching each piece.

But if I had to guess... I would say maybe your gear is adding up to around $4,000 - $6,000? ( I wouldn't be surprised if you told me it was higher. )

I would never spend that much money for a car audio system.
My home system wasn't even close to that much money. My home system is Harmon Kardon, Onkyo, Cerwin Vega, and JBL.
I might have $1,500 - $2,000 on my home system.
My car system was around $550 total.

I'm just a cheapskate when it comes to audio. I like audio, but I never could see the point in spending big bucks on it.
I realize you are building your system for competition, and that is totally different than building a system for casual listening.

:respekt:

swidd

06-12-2010, 04:34 PM

http://i.imgur.com/iga1e.png

derickveliz2

06-13-2010, 01:32 AM

I can't believe I didn't post ribs of your mids! I have the pics...i'll post then for you tonight.

Thanks

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/CIMG1821.jpg

Those little woofers are going to make MUCHO beautiful noise!

Huh that sounded like George Lopez

http://scrapetv.com/News/News%20Pages/Entertainment/images-5/george-lopez-5.jpg

D.

derickveliz2

06-13-2010, 02:02 AM

Alien Mantis,

I've been thinking what you told Herb about one 10" subwoofer,

My system doesn't rattle my whole car. One 10" is not really enough to be annoying.:biggrin:

I really would like to have three 10" woofers... :smile: with a set up like this my poor Yaris starts rubbering the rear end, it just gets too heavy,:thumbdown:

I came up with this crazy idea...* :rolleyes:

* What if I put back OME rear springs that would lift the car and inch or so, but all the weight of the subwoofers/box + deadening would bring it down and inch or so. *

My beautiful balance suspension that I have right now may get spoiled, but if that aloud's me to have three 10 in woofers I may give it a try!
If that doesn't work I'll go back to plan B, with One 10" subwoofer. :thumbsup:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9610.jpg

Do you see all the pros and cons when you want to modify your car? and...

All it takes to acomplish a task like this :bow::bow::bow:

D.

derickveliz2

06-13-2010, 02:15 AM

By the way!

I change the Oil this morning in 37 minutes flat! hey that's very good for some one like me!

http://www.amsoil.com/images/redesign/HeaderLogo2.gif 5W30

(o:

Alien Mantis

06-13-2010, 03:25 AM

Those look like some old Kicker Solobarics?

Three 10's.... nice! Balance that suspension and go for it!
( if you don't mind losing your trunk space )

37 minutes to change your oil?
Did you take a nap in there somewhere ???
:bellyroll:
I guess I shouldn't bag on you too hard, lotsa folks don't even change their own oil.

derickveliz2

06-14-2010, 12:40 PM

sqcomp

06-14-2010, 01:30 PM

I still have love for the older Solo "D"s. Fun little woofs. I used to run two 15" Solo "D"s.

derickveliz2

06-14-2010, 03:33 PM

I still have love for the older Solo "D"s. Fun little woofs. I used to run two 15" Solo "D"s.

Would you put them in your Yaris? :wub:

.

sqcomp

06-14-2010, 03:41 PM

Now? One on one with the mille? Not a chance. That being said, there is a price difference as well.

derickveliz2

06-16-2010, 04:40 AM

.:cry:

It's 3:36 am, I'm still at work )o:

and to keep me awake I stare at these pictures...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/77441931.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/42949d01.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/041c058f.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/6f352d3a.jpg

:needpics:

.

derickveliz2

06-16-2010, 04:44 AM

.

I'm tired of the noise coming from the left front door and left side of fire wall / under Pilot's area floor too.

I need to make some time and get this areas done ASAP (I wish, I'll try)

Buying cables for BIG 3, tomorrow at a local Car Audio store.

A casual shot the other day after work...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/55164b93.jpg

.

derickveliz2

06-16-2010, 02:19 PM

.

Midrange speakers are here...

Speechless....

:bow:
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/6f1cfca8.jpg
:bow:
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/0bcd1eda.jpg

.:thumbsup:

gates_2

06-16-2010, 02:27 PM

Fantastic thread...As soon as the bank finalizes my loan on my new 2010 hatchback, I'll be using this as a reference to do something similar this summer!

Can't wait:thumbup:

derickveliz2

06-16-2010, 02:29 PM

Fantastic thread...As soon as the bank finalizes my loan on my new 2010 hatchback, I'll be using this as a reference to do something similar this summer!

Can't wait:thumbup:

AWESOME! :thumbsup:

.

Herbicidal

06-16-2010, 02:29 PM

I came up with this crazy idea...* :rolleyes:

* What if I put back OME rear springs that would lift the car and inch or so, but all the weight of the subwoofers/box + deadening would bring it down and inch or so. *

My beautiful balance suspension that I have right now may get spoiled, but if that aloud's me to have three 10 in woofers I may give it a try!
If that doesn't work I'll go back to plan B, with One 10" subwoofer. :thumbsup:
It's worth a shot. Since it's a pretty easy job to swap out the rear springs. So if you go with 3, 10" subs, plus the box, what is that going to weigh? Somewhere around 100 lbs I'm thinking. Maybe more? :eek:

BTW - SWEET looking mids! Those guys will sound soooo nice! :thumbup:

derickveliz2

06-16-2010, 02:40 PM

.

Yes I would like to try and swap the rear OEM springs for a test, yes the box+subs it's around 100 lbs or more (another model in my car :eyebulge:)

The mids are really nice, pictures make no justice, besides they are smaller than what you see on the pictures and they are very light. Thanks!

.

derickveliz2

06-16-2010, 05:25 PM

.

TALKING ABOUT POCKET SPEAKERS...

.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/3969feab.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/4ea3bbe2.jpg

I guess I've been working too much, I need a break, I need to work on my car! I need to get some sleep!!! at this point I don't want to see more plans :frown:
.

derickveliz2

06-21-2010, 12:23 PM

Ok, so I finished the front left door, the best door I did from all 4 doors. I put enough MAT to make it work like a speaker box for the 6.5 mid-bass and also I was able to apply a full layer of MLV, so it's in good shape, I have more MAT that I'm going to apply to the right front door and will try to put a full layer of MLV. The door is now very quiet!

Now I now why I was not capable of putting a full layer of MLV on the door... since I had the panel of the door for several days laying in my garage against the wall, at an angle, the panel it self bet a little bit over time, when I try to put it back it was poping out, the same thing with the left door, but the day after I put it back with a full layer of MLV I didn't close it and let it sit for a while in the sun... after that was really easy to put back together.

So if you are going to do it over the weekend or spend more than 2 days, lay down your panels flat on the floor, do not put them against a vertical surface, they will change shape and will no help to put it back together. If you can have a door done in the same day.

2cts.

.

derickveliz2

06-21-2010, 12:34 PM

.
Here I'm installing a layer of MLV under the Pilot's area, up a little bit the Fire Wall.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/deadening%20part%202/3894916e.jpg

This is where I'm holding the MLV to the floor...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/deadening%20part%202/7dc04104.jpg

More MLV towards the pilot's seat...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/deadening%20part%202/e4a3031e.jpg

Used some MAT to hold the MLV in place...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/deadening%20part%202/5b72d34b.jpg

Rug back in place, ready to put the seat back!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/deadening%20part%202/8347bc44.jpg

This morning commute... AWESOME!

.

sqcomp

06-21-2010, 12:48 PM

Aren't those speakers cool? How long till you get power to them?

derickveliz2

06-21-2010, 12:58 PM

.

Last week I went to the local audio shop, I asked for three 0-gage wires, one Red 3 feet, 1 grey 1.5 feet and another grey 10 inches.

I asked... How much? $4 / feet ... OK
Do you have terminals.... Yes.... OK, 6 please
15 minutes later I has walking away with this...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/deadening%20part%202/c5bdea24.jpg

All for $34 bucks and I did nothing! they cut the wires and put the terminals.

Big 3 here we go!

.
:burnrubber:

derickveliz2

06-21-2010, 01:00 PM

Aren't those speakers cool? How long till you get power to them?

They are beautiful !!!

maybe in a week or two! :rolleyes:

.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/0bcd1eda.jpg

derickveliz2

06-21-2010, 04:00 PM

.
Here's where I'm right now...

Deadening:

Floor 100% (completed)...
Trunk 80%
Doors 85% (finish right front door)
Fire Wall 75%
Roof 0%
Front fenders 0%
Engine Hood 0%

.

Alien Mantis

06-21-2010, 06:49 PM

Okay, so stop deadening things and finish your system install!

:biggrin:

DailyDriver

06-22-2010, 10:45 AM

keep deadening! keep deadening! I wish i was half as far as you are with my car! Love the pics! keep em coming! (and thx for posting them)

:) :) :) :)

derickveliz2

06-22-2010, 11:06 AM

.

I'll keep making my car less noisier, so I can make it louder!

Thanks

Alien Mantis

06-22-2010, 03:29 PM

Yes.

Don't get me wrong... the Yaris NEEDS "deadening".

:frown:

derickveliz2

06-23-2010, 04:44 PM

.
Here's where I'm right now...

Deadening:

Floor 100% (completed)...
Trunk 80%
Doors 85% (finish right front door)
Fire Wall 75%
Roof 0%
Front fenders 0%
Engine Hood 0%

.

I have to say that by doing the floor, doors and most of the firewall the noise level is surprisingly lower that what I expected, It used to be that my 04 Corolla was much quieter that my 08 Yaris, now it's vice-versa! and I could express this feeling in some ways...

-Yaris feels much solid than the corolla now, after driving my corolla for several days or hours and moving back to my Yaris I would experience a feeling of cheap, hallow plastic/metal, noisy and sometimes toyish felling. Not any more!

-You feel the bumps but barely hear them (this is a nice feeling)

-The ride quality between when it was brand new has improved to the point that it doesn't feel like the same car I drove from the dealer to home

Some things that I don't like...

-The height of the floor raised significantly that bothers the operation of the clutch, I took care of this by cutting some of some CCF. But still bothers me a little bit, so the seat mod would have to happen pretty soon. If you don't know what I'm talking about is in this thread about lifting the front of the seat a little bit:

- .....LINK (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=479879#post479879)

-A lot of the Panels don't fit back properly in their place (this is because the extra layers of deadening material underneath) some modification has to be done, trimming, cutting, adjusting, etc

-Some panels will break when pulling apart, I broke 2 allready 1 panel that goes in the trunk and 1 panel at the bottom sill of the front left door.

-It's time consuming! and you need good tools to accomplish several tasks like... taking the seats off, seat belts, pulling panels, etc.

-Add more weight to my car, it really doesn't bothers me, and I'm still getting 42.34 MPG; it's more stable than before specially on the highway and cross winds.

But after all (even I'm not finish) the results are very satisfying. I wish I could increase the thickness of the glass of all windows and windshield, increase the thickness of the sheet metal of the car and to be able to treat the Firewall from the engine compartment.

I have a few recommendations...

-If you are only going to treat a section start with the floor and wheel wells; then the doors and I started with the rear doors gaining experience for the front doors and harder to treat.

-Consider using CLD Tiles to control resonances

-Consider CCF to absorb resonances on top of the metal and CLD tiles

-Use CCF as a cushion between panels and prevent rattling

-I highly recommend the use of MLV as a sound barrier this will really help reducing outside noise into your car. Even though it's very hard to work with and you have to be creative.

*Would I do it again?

................................YES!..:thumbup::th umbup::thumbup:

Now I'm going to focus more in my stereo upgrade I will finish deadening the other areas and I will post in this thread as well....:thumbsup:

:bow: Thank you every body for your help, comments and recommendations.
.

derickveliz2

06-24-2010, 10:39 PM

.
OK guys she WON!

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TCQDfMzxTSI/AAAAAAAAYAk/aCYhxK87_t0/s640/DSC_0636.JPG

now there is another reason to go quiet...

.

Emerge

06-25-2010, 12:25 AM

Congratulations man! There's nothing in the world like love at first sight.

Herbicidal

06-25-2010, 11:23 AM

Congratulations!!! I guess if you have to 'lose', what a way to go. :smile:

Palmer812

06-25-2010, 11:38 AM

Congrats!!! We now know the real reason you spent all that time deadening the Yaris. When the baby won't stop crying you have somewhere to go and hide. :biggrin:

gates_2

06-29-2010, 10:39 AM

Congrats! That must be really exciting!

Quick question..anyone have problems with getting the C pillar off? I'm in the process of gutting my HB to put in deadening, and there seems to be like a metal cliplike thing holding the C pillar in place quite firmly (its different from the other white plastic clips)- Advise?

derickveliz2

07-01-2010, 03:00 AM

Thanks guys,

Looks like tomorrow night we'll go back to this project.

Herb, I got your meter, will test soon.

derickveliz2

07-01-2010, 03:00 AM

Congratulations man! There's nothing in the world like love at first sight.

YEAH!!!

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TCQDvc7mo7I/AAAAAAAAYDU/rfW7DdInjtY/s720/DSC_0684.JPG
.

derickveliz2

07-01-2010, 03:02 AM

Herbicidal

07-01-2010, 01:56 PM

Herb, I got your meter, will test soon.
Take any readings yet from your newborn? I KNOW she is not always that quiet and photogenic!!! :biggrin:

derickveliz2

07-06-2010, 12:39 PM

Take any readings yet from your newborn? I KNOW she is not always that quiet and photogenic!!! :biggrin:

I haven't had a chance to do that! she is not very loud! she sleeps eats and you know.

I replaced the 9v battery and drove to work, the meter it's very tricky and I'm slowly finding how it works, even a small change on pavement the numbers increase, even if I talk or sneeze, small bumps on the road, a truck passing by also make the numbers go up or just changing the position of the meter or touching it as well.

Also the position and orientation makes a difference, pointing at the windshield the #s increase a little bit. It's not fair to record MAX readings for reference, so I'm posting actual readings as I drive on the highway...

at 75mph reads... 74db to 78db a small bump or changes in surface bumps and reads... 80db for 1/2 a second

at 65mph reads... 61db to 68db
ps... GPS speed in MPH

All this with the center of the car open (no center console) and no front passenger's seat either and the front left wheel well untreated.

I would like to try this in my Dad's Mercedes... :eek:

A couple of nights ago I put some Mat and Ensolite to the center console, I didn't spend a lot of time here, I just wanted to reinforce the plastic panels a little bit, and prevent rattling, I'm also concern on getting back in place this piece, so I didn't put any Mat or Ensolite on the edges... here are the pictures:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/deadening%20part%202/aaf0ed20.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/deadening%20part%202/02ed353a.jpg

Oops..

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TC3RyKid2EI/AAAAAAAAYNY/S4BVNNt-Myo/s1152/DSC_0839.JPG

derickveliz2

07-07-2010, 03:23 PM

Ok, my intention was to record video clips at highway speeds, please don't do this at home LOL

Sorry for the crappy video quality :iono:

This video is driving at 70 mph (cruise control) no center console, no front passenger's seat either and the front left wheel well untreated. PS... thanks to herb for letting me use his db meter.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Videos%20Yaris/th_27c7fdf5.jpg (http://s634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Videos%20Yaris/?action=view&current=27c7fdf5.mp4)

derickveliz2

07-07-2010, 03:49 PM

.:burnrubber:
This video is at 80 MPH... CRANK up the volume of your speakers and hear the noise coming from the stick as I move the camera from it.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Videos%20Yaris/th_44037a59.jpg (http://s634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Videos%20Yaris/?action=view&current=44037a59.mp4)

.

derickveliz2

07-07-2010, 03:55 PM

talnlnky

07-07-2010, 11:40 PM

:biggrin:
It's hard to have a sense of scale with db (decibels) so I thought about what if I open the window at 80mph? almost 10 db more, but to my ears it was twice as much louder. It's interesting how these measurements work, we are used to grab a ruler and measure, but with decibels I guess it doesn't work the same way.

enjoy

.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Videos%20Yaris/th_a0c2f21e.jpg (http://s634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Videos%20Yaris/?action=view&current=a0c2f21e.mp4)

.
:w00t:

the dB scale is exponential. either 0 or 1 dB is supposed to be the lowest volume of sound a human ear is supposed to be able to hear. Every increase of 3dB is technically a doubling in volume. HOWEVER, human ears suck as listening tools. Human ears usually perceive a 6 to 10dB increase as being a doubling in sound.

So, you saying that a 10dB increase felt like a doubling is within normal perception.

Also, once you start getting up past 120dB, the ears really can't tell what a doubling is... especially when you start getting in the 140+ range.

Another thing, there are many different decibel measurement tools out there. I know of only one that is accurate & consistent regardless of environmental conditions. Many are very liberal with their ratings (higher readings than they should be).

derickveliz2

07-08-2010, 10:56 AM

Thanks Taln, I know that there is a logic explanation for all that. and I agree human ears are not a very good listening tool; and yes the meter I'm using is from Herb, and it's not very expensive (around $35) so we are kind of playing and having fun, not actually getting real results.

http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_standard/390-722_s.jpg
LINK (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=390-722&source=googleps)

I just wanted to give it a try, since he was a little frustrated with his before and after readings, (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=481200&postcount=89) but my conclusion besides it's a cheap meter, he is looking at MAX recorded and like if you watch in the videos the numbers kick up and down at some points, so I'm pretty sure his treatment is working well.

I'm going to send the meter back to Herb next week so he can play with it again.

(o:

derickveliz2

07-09-2010, 04:17 PM

.
2 nights ago, I met a big nightmare! putting back the center console was a pain!!! but now it's very tight and snug.

So when ever you do your deadening project remember to leave space and plan ahead on what you cover, for your trim panels, screws, seats, etc, since adding Mat, Ensolite or CLD Tiles, CCFoam and MLV like in my case, you will increase the thickness of your floor, so everything is going to be tight.

For the back panel of the center console that has the cup holder for the rear seats, I'm going to have to shave on the bottom to make it fit properly.

but you know what... it's worth it!

D.

derickveliz2

07-09-2010, 04:41 PM

.
:burnrubber:
Last night I removed the OEM head unit, and it was a 30 minute workout very easy to do. removing the vents from it with... those 8 clips, where the time consuming part. Now my interior looks really bad, and without a radio to listen, I really want to install my system; this should make me move faster on the installation.

(o:
:burnrubber:

derickveliz2

07-12-2010, 11:22 AM

.

This is how it looks with out a Head Unit!
.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/deadening%20part%202/380e81c7.jpg

. I'm about to do the Big 3, any last minute tips are appreciated!

Thanks

Herbicidal

07-12-2010, 12:37 PM

I haven't had a chance to do that! she is not very loud! she sleeps eats and you know.

I replaced the 9v battery and drove to work, the meter it's very tricky and I'm slowly finding how it works, even a small change on pavement the numbers increase, even if I talk or sneeze, small bumps on the road, a truck passing by also make the numbers go up or just changing the position of the meter or touching it as well.

Also the position and orientation makes a difference, pointing at the windshield the #s increase a little bit. It's not fair to record MAX readings for reference, so I'm posting actual readings as I drive on the highway...

at 75mph reads... 74db to 78db a small bump or changes in surface bumps and reads... 80db for 1/2 a second

at 65mph reads... 61db to 68db
ps... GPS speed in MPH

All this with the center of the car open (no center console) and no front passenger's seat either and the front left wheel well untreated.

I would like to try this in my Dad's Mercedes... :eek:

You're welcome for the use of the meter. :thumbsup:

I'll have to try the highway readings like you did just for comparison and yes, I realize this is all just for fun. :smile: However, I'm not taking out my passenger seat or the center console! :biggrin:

derickveliz2

07-13-2010, 03:28 PM

Meter is going back to California tomorrow! Thank you!!!!

it's a learning process...

I need some sleep....

Herbicidal

07-13-2010, 04:06 PM

Meter is going back to California tomorrow! Thank you!!!!

it's a learning process...

I need some sleep....
No problem!

It sure is!

Try and get some Zzzz's tonight. No worky on the car for you! Take a night off. :smile:

derickveliz2

07-15-2010, 10:49 AM

.
WE HAVE POWER!

I did the BIG 3 and installed the power cable for the amps too.
Took me 1 hour and 45 minutes from start to end, including cleaning and everything.
This thing about the battery-cables-alternator scare the $.... out of me, so I took my time and planed everything ahead.

My lack of knowledge about electricity makes me wonder but I can tell that my car had a very basic installation, cables are very thing and flimsy so this thing about the Big 3 it's a must.

So far so good, the car started like every day and nothing went bad, besides my clock got behind a few minutes and for some reason, I'm not sure but in idle starting from a stop I hear a very little whistle / whisper noise very similar to the one you get in your speakers (note: there are no speakers). As soon as the car starts moving it disappears, It could have been there before but I just never payed attention to it. It's very soft.

I'll take a photo as soon the rain/drizzle stops. :thumbsup:

I hope everything is OK!

derickveliz2

07-15-2010, 11:44 AM

.
Here are the pictures....

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TD8dsc0shOI/AAAAAAAAYqk/y-Rsc3CZ0y8/s1280/DSC_0966.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TD8dt7f_8GI/AAAAAAAAYqs/uSBLxeJzkSg/s1280/DSC_0967.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TD8dvQOdaQI/AAAAAAAAYq0/3hRuIDIR_S4/s1280/DSC_0968.JPG
:burnrubber:

Emerge

07-15-2010, 06:19 PM

I want to do this, but I'm afraid of killing myself or the car. So, I wonder if they do this at audio shops?

Herbicidal

07-15-2010, 07:20 PM

I want to do this, but I'm afraid of killing myself or the car. So, I wonder if they do this at audio shops?

You can do it! Just disconnect the battery and remove all the *bling* from your body first. :wink: Don't want to short something out. :tongue:

centrysis

07-15-2010, 09:19 PM

and dont stand in a puddle:laugh:

sqcomp

07-15-2010, 09:48 PM

derickveliz2

07-16-2010, 10:49 AM

Of course they do this at audio shops...

Give me 30 minutes and I'll have you all 1/0 G and techflexed with heat shrink.

DERICK! WTF are you doing?!? Hide those ballasts and trim that flex with a hot knife at least! :D

.
So you noticed I'm running HID's JeJe! (4 of them)

I'm sorry to be so naive, what is "that Flex"? is the black thin layer covering the wire?

So now I understand... if something takes you 30 minutes it would take me 3.5 times more (small detail)

.

derickveliz2

07-16-2010, 05:52 PM

So I got my self a Stinger distribution block 1 to 3 and some Maxi fuses (20,30,40) for (+)

and for (-) I'm going to use the 2 kicker distribution blocks (1 to 2) that came with the amp wiring kit. or I think it would be better if I can get direct ground connection for each amp; we'll see.

I have to build a shed this weekend and prepare for a big trip next week so I'll be disconnected from Yaris World until next Friday.

See you then!

Derick

Alien Mantis

07-16-2010, 06:55 PM

Hehehe.... you guys are addicts.

Healthier than a drug habit, but just as expensive.

:biggrin:

( Fun to watch what you guys come up with. )

Bluevitz-rs

07-17-2010, 11:34 AM

That connection to the alternator should have a 100A fusible link in it. Otherwise if something shorts out in the alternator, you could have a fire on you hands.

sqcomp

07-17-2010, 04:27 PM

Derick...you will NOT set fire to those Hertz speakers! I'll have to come out to your side of the country and re-wire the dang car! I don't want to do that. :D

derickveliz2

07-26-2010, 01:00 PM

.
I'm back! a week in NY working 16 hours a day, not good!

- So I do need a 100A fuse in the alternator / + battery line? Didn't see that in many Big 3 DIYs, but I'm all ears to any advice and/or suggestions. Remember I have no idea about all this electric stuff!

- Sqcomp, if you ever come on this side of the pond, you can re-wire my car and enjoy a quiet ride! jeje.

so... what's next?
-install HU
-wires from amps to speakers,
-install amps

and many more!

Herbicidal

07-26-2010, 01:57 PM

Meter is going back to California tomorrow! Thank you!!!!
Got it back. Thanks.

derickveliz2

07-26-2010, 02:17 PM

Got it back. Thanks.

Thanks to you!

.

derickveliz2

07-27-2010, 11:06 AM

.
Last night the DEX-P99RS came alive very impressive!

Lots of left over wires in there from the OEM head unit and new RCA (4) cables, and what do I do with the DOOR MUTE connection?

And just to be clear, the blue wire (system remote control) goes from the head unit to the amps! is that right?

Alien Mantis... "you guys are addicts.
Healthier than a drug habit, but just as expensive."

I can't describe better than that an expensive, healthier addiction :drinking:-:smoking:

Derick.

derickveliz2

07-27-2010, 04:11 PM

.

Ok, for lunch I installed completely the P99 it's working good (at least turns on, no amps connected so I can't hear anything)

Looks very nice, simple and basic. I know it's a monster in the inside! I did put some CLD Tiles in the Metra tray (under the radio) and some CCFoam. I also covered the air ducts above to isolate them and hear less air going through.

I connected all the RCAs, Antenna, 6disc CDcharger, and USB cable.

I will finish putting back together all the panels around the head unit, then I'm going after the Amps!

D.

derickveliz2

07-28-2010, 02:32 AM

.
On my way home I was turning on and off the P99, everything looks to be working fine.

What a nice surprise on the screen shows a volt meter, when the car is cruising shows 13.8v and when the car is turned off 12.6v That's cool.

around midnight I worked on the dashboard about 1 hour or so, finished putting back all the panels and the DashMatt.

I did put lots of CCfoam and radiant barrier insulation along the top of the dashboard and above the air ducts

Tomorrow (I mean today) I will get some boards to start making the base of the amps.

can't wait.

derickveliz2

07-28-2010, 10:36 AM

.
What a nice surprise on the screen shows a volt meter, when the car is cruising shows 13.8v and when the car is turned off 12.6v.

This morning when I started my car the volt meter was reading 14.2v

after 15 miles of commute 13.9v and when I got at work 41 miles after and about 45 minutes on the road 13.6v

is this normal? should I be concern? I had my lights on and the AC cranking.

D.

derickveliz2

07-28-2010, 10:38 AM

.
BTW... it was a very quiet ride.

I didn't realize how much noise can scoop through the head unit's opening in the middle of the dashboard.

D.

sqcomp

07-28-2010, 01:02 PM

I noticed the same thing. At this point I'm ready to say it's normal. I start up mine and my Voltimeter reads anywhere from 14.3 to 14 Volts. At the end of extended listening and cruising I'm at mid 13 Volts like you are.

Isn't it funny though? You sit there an glance at that reading SO MANY TIMES! It's almost like you're thinking, "Okay, is my car going to suddenly suck all the juice from my alternator and I'll end up stuck?"

I find though that I stay around 13.7 Volts if I'm not in stop and go traffic. I'm of the opinion that the only thing that will keep the reading at 14 Volts is an aftermarket alternator. Oh, and the reading when your car is off is very normal.

derickveliz2

07-28-2010, 01:15 PM

Thanks sqcomp!

I still need to get that 100 amp fuse in the Big 3

I have a question... can I run speaker wire near by (+) 4 gauge cable? I'm trying to figure out the location of the amps and how the cables run, I know I have to keep away the RCA from (+) in worst case cross them at 90 degrees, right?

Thanks
D.

sqcomp

07-28-2010, 08:02 PM

Near? How close is near? If you need to cross the signal and power, I'd do it at a right angle, yes.

I've managed to only have one cable so far that crosses the power...that's on the amp rack and it's unavoidable with the setup I have so far. I will be taking extra steps to shield the two cables from each other regardless.

Get that big 3 done! It's a great value investment. I actually have to downgrade the 250 Ampere fuse that came from Stinger down to a 150 or 175 Ampere fuse. I think I'll go with the lesser fuse simply because it'd take a 300 Ampere draw to blow it anyway. It keeps everything very safe that way.

talnlnky

07-28-2010, 11:14 PM

voltage only tells you half of the story. Knowing voltage alone doesn't really tell you if there is a problem or not.... unless it drops below 12v, or peaks above 15v.

When you start your car your alt will start to recharge the battery, the quickest way to do that is to increase the voltage along with the amperage output.

Once your battery is fully charged tho, you should see your voltage drop to as low as 13.2volts because the alt no longer needs to charge.

It is normal.... HOWEVER, if your alternator can't charge the battery as fast as you can drain it (because you got some crazy amp hungry electronics or a bad shorting problem) then your bat will slowly lose its charge. At this same time, the alt might be trying to hold a voltage near 14.5v, but due to the extreme amperage demand, it just can't hold the voltage up... thus you see a sag/dip, and may read something in the 13's. THIS IS BAD, and if you have this issue you will most likely kill both your alt and bat in the near future... and then you might as well get a custom alt or re-think the electronics because you will constantly have alt/bat problems.

derickveliz2

07-29-2010, 11:29 AM

Thanks Talnlnky

I don't have amps running, we'll see how it changes as I plug them in.

sqcomp... my P99 turns white screen on and off about every 30 or 40 seconds, did I plug something wrong?
or there is a setting for that? I'm going to dig in the manual.

Should I reset the unit? maybe?

This little head unit looks so simple but when you navigate trough the menus it's scary

derickveliz2

07-30-2010, 11:53 AM

Yesterday I went to the local Car-Audio store and asked them for a 100amp fuse/fuse holder for the big 3 that goes from the alternator to the (+) of the Battery... And they told me that it was not necessary an refused to sell me one )o: they made me feel stupid some how, I guess I just have to order one online and not support them on this one.

derickveliz2

07-30-2010, 03:58 PM

.
Last night I powered one of the amps, and put a CD in the HU, connected one 6.5 midbass driver, so now the HU, 1 amp and one speaker are working.

sqcomp

08-01-2010, 06:02 AM

talnlnky

08-01-2010, 01:38 PM

yeah, it is common practice not to put a fuse on the charging wire on the alt. You can put one on tho. i'd make it a big fuse tho. if using 1/0, i'd go bigger than 100amp.... 150-200 probably. If running 4awg i'd go for 100-150.

derickveliz2

08-02-2010, 11:15 AM

Derick, sorry brother...I've been working long nights. Okay, the P99 (the US version) is switching from the white contrast to the black contrast sceens. My P-01 did the same thing. This happens after you've reset the piece.
What you need to do is to turn the tuner off. Then press the function button. You'll go through a setup menu. Your option to change the contrast will be offered on one of those menus. You also have an option to turn off the remote, to change the lighting color, etcetera.
I don't see the need for a fuse between the alternator and the battery. I do see a need for a fuse from the positive back to the amplifiers though.
As for the Voltage, we're seeing normal operation. There's no dips or peaks in my operation.
Remember...gain match!

No problem SQcomp I'll try to change the the settings and set the contrast, I'll let you know.

I was looking for a fuse because of this post above...

That connection to the alternator should have a 100A fusible link in it. Otherwise if something shorts out in the alternator, you could have a fire on you hands.

so I don't really need it, OK I'm fine. I do have a fuse for the amps and I have a distribution block with smaller fuses one for each amp.

Ok, this one I'm clue less... how do I do gain match?

Thanks
Derick

derickveliz2

08-03-2010, 11:04 AM

What you need to do is to turn the tuner off. Then press the function button. You'll go through a setup menu. Your option to change the contrast will be offered on one of those menus. You also have an option to turn off the remote, to change the lighting color, etcetera.

Done! Thanks sqcomp, this HU is very special I bet your's it's a little harder with no English, I tried Spanish a little bit but the translation was terrible, so went back to English :thumbup:

You are not going to believe me, I couldn't find BASS & TREBLE in my HU :iono:

Just kidding... I don't think there is such a thing on the P99

Thanks again, going back to study the manual for more information
:burnrubber:

derickveliz2

08-03-2010, 12:03 PM

.
I connected both 6.5 speakers (in the doors), now I can hear some music! low frequencies by it self are not the greatest Though

derickveliz2

08-03-2010, 02:39 PM

I can't believe the amount of customization / tweaking the P99 HU has, using only the Mid Bass drivers (Low Frequency channel) I was able to make it sound much better than OEM HU.

Now my question is... I need to learn more about Frequencies and speakers, in other words Woofers go from 20 to 80??, midbass go from ?? to ??, midrange go from ?? to ?? and Tweeters from ?? to 20,000??

Thanks
D.

sqcomp

08-03-2010, 04:04 PM

Okay...ummm...yeah. There is no "Bass" or "Trebble" toggles. It's all in the EQ and Crossover section. You'll have more than you ever need.

with the function button (the right one) to get to your EQ and crossover sections what you'll need to do is:

While the unit is on, go ahead and rotate the function button either left or right.

This will job the display into "Audio", "Display", or ""Function". Note I haven't even turned mine on in two weeks because I'm waiting for the last 2.9 to get here...

Obviously, choose "Audio"

In the main audio menu, you can turn the function button left or right throughout the whole process EXCEPT in some sub menus.

At this point we're just floating around in the upper menu.

What you'll do is to jog the function button until you reach the crossover slopes display.

At that point you'll press the function button in.

That should give you the ability to float around the 4 way crossover.

Now, you SHOULD play with this. You'll be able to range the slopes in regards to frequency range and you'll be able to independantly adjust both left and right on said slopes.

Now this adjustment takes another press of the function button BUT I would say to leave it alone and just do broad changes until you're used to the deck.

You also have the ability to mute any section of the crossover. This is particularly useful when you're tuning...

I KNOW there's more. I'm just wasted from a 13 hour work day yesterday/this morning and would need some specific questions to hone in on.

I hope this helps at least guide you in the right direction.

...and yes, I know the head unit is frustrating. This is just the initial reaction to so many options. Feel lucky you don't have the Carrozzeria RS-D7xII! You think our sources have options? PFFFFTT! That is one of THE most ultimate decks ever built. Think better crossover and optical out...

derickveliz2

08-03-2010, 05:12 PM

It's all in the EQ and Crossover section. You'll have more than you ever need.

Thanks!

this is AWESOME!

I guess as I keep plugging amps and speakers everything will come up together nicely.

DERICK.
:smile:

sqcomp

08-03-2010, 05:26 PM

Try to use all of the source's pre outs. This will give you the best control from the unit.

derickveliz2

08-03-2010, 05:54 PM

Try to use all of the source's pre outs. This will give you the best control from the unit.

Yes, I'm ...

I almost have the same configuration as you do, but not as fancy and powerful.

400w X 1 amp for Subwoofer (10" one or 3) I would like a 15"

80w X 2 amp for 6.5 Mid bass

65w X 4 amp for 3.5 Midrange and tweeters

So far I've been playing with the 6.5 Mid bass and already sounds better than stock, bass is really good, with some songs I can feel the bass in my chest. I know I've been plying with the crossover points and made the Mid bass sound more like a full range speaker (for now) but slowly I will make the other amps and speakers available, that's why I would like to know what frequencies go with each speaker, I guess it's also a trial and error with what ever sounds better.

one question about TA (Time Alignment) it gave me the options to dial in inches for each driver, this means from speaker to my hears?

I was able to save one of my own EQ into memory 1 makes a big difference with EQ= FLAT

TOO MUCH FUN with this little HU :thumbsup:

D.

sqcomp

08-04-2010, 12:13 PM

Well...what I'd suggest with TA is to measure from the center of the car, oh around the domelight. If you measure form your head, your stage will be skewed right. I have pretty damned good TA measures. I'll give those to you over PM...I'd rather keep the "secret" of my center image between us. That being said, my speaker setup, and therefore my TA, is going to be different than yours.

My by ear EQ has the top end a raised slightly, the midbass is cut WAY down. I'm WAY down. The kick loading of the 8"s and the cabin response of the Yaris sedan lends itself to midbass response. Oh boy does it.

You can do a 15". Look at the Image Dynamics ID 15, your power availability is right in it's power band.

derickveliz2

08-04-2010, 12:41 PM

Well...what I'd suggest with TA is to measure from the center of the car, oh around the domelight. If you measure form your head, your stage will be skewed right.
You can do a 15". Look at the Image Dynamics ID 15, your power availability is right in it's power band.

YES, YES, YES... you are RIGHT!

This morning on my way to work I noticed the stage was skewed to the right, and I had no clue, but guess what?... last night I set up TA with measurements to my head! so you are correct! I'll dial in new measurements, thanks

I like the idea of a ID 15 in a 2.3 cuft. in a ported box, where do I buy one of this?

Thanks!

sqcomp

08-04-2010, 04:47 PM

Hmmm...from the same guys who sold you the mids! :D Just tell Jim I sent you. The ID woofer isn't expensive. Not like mine thank the Lord. You're going to love this woofer.

Also, pick Jim's brain about the enclosure if you have any specific questions about it.

Also, ID has a website where you can get even more specifics on enclosure questions. Heck, you can even talk to the guys that designed it.

I'll tell Jim you're going to call sometime soon.

derickveliz2

08-05-2010, 10:44 AM

Remember this panel? (B-pillard)

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/52435dc5.jpg

I removed the passengers side to move around cables,
and I never really notice how much road noise comes through,
now that the car is 95% deaden I can assure you that this panel it's a must after all,
specially if you do doors and floor.

2 cts.
.
:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

08-05-2010, 12:50 PM

.:thumbsup:

Just a quick shot of the interior looking at the new bezel, photos and/or videos of the P99 in action will follow soon!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yarisito/f448b6d7.jpg

D.

derickveliz2

08-05-2010, 02:11 PM

I made this sketch to my self last night!

It's just the beginning of the layout for my amps with rough measurements,
I will draw this to scale later, and then will try to build it.

Basically it's a top view, the amps go on the floor between front and rear seats, I will rise the floor over this area to protect the amps.
Only my kids go in the back, and not very often, so they wouldn't mind the floor been 4 inches higher.

The wires from the left are coming from the HU: (from left to right)

-6CD Charger magazine that will go in the trunk

-(+) or blue wire, this is the one that turns "ON" the amps when the HU is turned "ON"

-Then we have audio signals (RCA cables) from HU:

- High
- Mid
- Low
- Sub

On the top right side of the sketch the main power (+) line and a distribution block with 3 Maxi fuses [20amp, 30amp, 40amp] (one for each amp)

On the bottom right the "Ground" (-) wire to a distribution block that leads to one amp and then to another distribution block for the other 2 amps
(Should I make individual ground connections for each amp? or is this Ok?)

The base is a 1/2 plywood sheet that will cut down to shape and it's overall dimensions are 16"x48" with a small grove in the middle for the Arm-rest and center console, of about 6"x8"

I will cover this with black carpet or trunk liner.

The first amp it's a 65watts x 4 running Mids and Highs audio signals (3" midrange speaker and tweeter)

The amp in the middle handles 60x2 for the Lows (6.5 drivers in the doors)

The amp on the left handles 400x1 for the Sub(s) (I'm figuring out what to use, I have three 10" kicker solobarics in a box but it's too heavy)

Then if everything goes Ok I will build a structure and have a 3/4" board on top covered with carpet and then you won't see any amps.

This is the plan, let's see what happens

D.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/a13ff088.jpg

derickveliz2

08-05-2010, 03:32 PM

Well...what I'd suggest with TA is to measure from the center of the car, oh around the domelight. If you measure form your head, your stage will be skewed right. I have pretty damned good TA measures. I'll give those to you over PM...I'd rather keep the "secret" of my center image between us. That being said, my speaker setup, and therefore my TA, is going to be different than yours.

Thanks sqcomp,
I'm starting to understand Time Alignment Here is a graphic I found online that makes sense for me. So the distance from the center of each speaker to the dome-light! so TA is equal on Left and Right? or where is the sweet point?

http://www.onlinecaraudio.co.nz/files/tainfo1.jpg

D.

PS.... How does the Posi (position L or R) at the menu of the HU relates to TA?

BTW ... I e-mail Jim about the 15" woofer but haven't hear from him...

.
:thumbsup:

sqcomp

08-05-2010, 05:10 PM

Take a picture of that HU L&R screen. I've seen it before but I don't remember at the moment exactly what you're talking about.

I'll holler at Jim about the e-mail.

derickveliz2

08-06-2010, 03:01 AM

Take a picture of that HU L&R screen. I've seen it before but I don't remember at the moment exactly what you're talking about.

I'll holler at Jim about the e-mail.

I got pictures and will post tomorrow, I know what is now, it sets up where your stage is, if it's for Pilot, Passenger or both, I did notice going back an forth that it rotates 180 degrees the Time Alignment, cool

Thanks, I got an email from Jim!

Derick

sqcomp

08-06-2010, 04:16 AM

He mentioned that you said something about JL? EEK! :P

derickveliz2

08-06-2010, 10:13 AM

He mentioned that you said something about JL? EEK! :P

Yeah he told me he is not a fan of JL (L Audio 15W0v2-4), I found one with similar specs to the ID15 and since I don't have an idea about brands I asked him, I've been a Pioneer fan since I was 16 years old, that's why I end up with a P99, jeje

He also pionts out that the ID sounds better (SQ) in a sealed box but since I'm used to my three 10 inch solo-barics that I should consider a ported box.

I'll just keep working with the installation now and figure that out later, even though I was saving for a good pair of tweeters from HAT (that's $200) so I'll see how everything goes and what results I'm getting with what I have now.

Thank you,

Your A-pilars look so SEXY, good job!

D.

changchewsoon

08-06-2010, 11:03 AM

hi there, i'm currently using the alpine head unit with an additional imprint processor.

it basically allows the adjustment of the time alignment via software by positioning a microphone in various location and then allow the software to tune itself out.

here, take a look at my post (http://www.viosturbo.com/2009/12/alpine-imprint-sound-processing.html) if you want to find out more.

hope it helps! :)

derickveliz2

08-06-2010, 11:16 AM

hi there, i'm currently using the alpine head unit with an additional imprint processor.

it basically allows the adjustment of the time alignment via software by positioning a microphone in various location and then allow the software to tune itself out.
hope it helps! :)

Thanks, looks cool. That is why I got the P99 it also comes with a microphone and sound processor, once I get all my speakers and amps going I can run it and will tune itself too.

Derick

.
:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

08-06-2010, 11:27 AM

Last night I made the base for the amps I end up using a thinner plywood because that's what I had, but it should work the idea is to keep the amps fixed to the floor, the top cover will be 3/4" to support what ever goes on.

I cut it and covered with walmart $8 auto carpet. (not bad to be my first job covering) I used 3M-77 and regular staples; here are some shots!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/HU%20Stereo%20System/90c877f8.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/HU%20Stereo%20System/8e4687c8.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/HU%20Stereo%20System/115fe5f1.jpg

Look at those ugly corners, :thumbdown: no problem I fixed them! :w00t:

.

derickveliz2

08-06-2010, 11:50 AM

Take a picture of that HU L&R screen. I've seen it before but I don't remember at the moment exactly what you're talking about.

Here is a photo of the P99 on the POSI (position) menu.
Like I wrote above this is to select the position of the listener to match the staging.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/HU%20Stereo%20System/a1be0c36.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/HU%20Stereo%20System/d14d56c6.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/HU%20Stereo%20System/19e31f5f.jpg

D.

derickveliz2

08-06-2010, 12:00 PM

This one just for the fun of it!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/HU%20Stereo%20System/89f36f03.jpg

.

sqcomp

08-06-2010, 04:13 PM

First...being in the SQ judge mindset, why blue illumination? Our illum is either white or green. Just a personal choice?

I actually like the dual spectrum analyzer screen myself on this deck. I run though with the basic screen up for the most part.

Okay, the screen you're looking at is the factory TA presets. I'd do one of two things for your situation. I'd either take the position Left placement and dial in the TA a smidge AND/OR take notes of the position left distances...you do this by turning on the posi L and then jogging the dial over to the TA section. You'll notice that the deck has already made some adjustments.

Take notes of that posi L measurements and add on.

Now, my setup is mostly A-pillar off axis. Yours is probably a little different. Do what you need to do. I think this is a good start though.

Oh, one note about the auto EQ and auto TA...Do it BUT, be very wary. That auto TA destroyed my center image. I mean really...it did a David Copperfield to the center.

Thoughts?

derickveliz2

08-06-2010, 04:33 PM

I'm keeping all these notes for later, once the time comes I'll stop playing and get some real numbers.

As of today I only have the LOW frequency mid-bass (6.5 drives in the doors) working with one amp. I hope by next week I'm going to have all 3 amps running and start playing with the location and orientation of the Mids and Tweeters like you did with a towel next to the A-pillars. For sub right now I'm just going to plug in a 10" Bazooka that I was saving for my wifes corolla.

As you wish... there are many colors one for each day!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/HU%20Stereo%20System/cfc312b6.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/HU%20Stereo%20System/5932e2d4.jpg

.

derickveliz2

08-09-2010, 06:48 PM

This one is for you sqcomp...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/HU%20Stereo%20System/d9ecf87d.gif

sqcomp

08-10-2010, 12:30 AM

Good man...you found the illumination setup...

:D

derickveliz2

08-10-2010, 02:22 AM

Good man...you found the illumination setup...

:D

I know, this is the only fancy feature of the Carrozzeria, after that it's pure SQ

.:thumbsup:

sqcomp

08-10-2010, 03:48 AM

...and the stellar EQ, crossover section, TA, and four DACs...

derickveliz2

08-11-2010, 10:41 AM

:biggrin:

For the first time in months I put back my son's car-seat and took him for a ride, What a pleasure to talk to him and to listen to him without screaming each other, it felt so good!

derickveliz2

08-12-2010, 11:29 AM

In the last few days... I put up a shed, sanded and painted my deck and last night I came to the conclusion that I hate wires!. Yes I just don't like them I'm glad that the P99 installation is so simple and I don't have to run active cross overs or EQ's and deal with more wires.

But! it has to be done, 2 amps are running now 1 for Low Frequencies (63-500) feeding 6.5 speakers in the doors the other one for Mid Frequencies (500-6.3) [this numbers are for reference only, I don't remember the exact numbers] feeding the HL-70.

What can I say... sounds awesome!!! I have never ever hear and feel music coming from little speakers like these. I swear there is a woofer some where in my car but no the 6.5 speakers are working great! the rear view mirrors started to blur a little bit (I'm going to have to apply some Mat behind them) and the HL-70 (I only plugged one on the left) produces the most beautiful sounds I ever heard coming from a speaker. All songs suddenly sound pretty.

And don't get me wrong, I'm not an installer or an EQ guy with experience but I had LOUD SPL systems in my previews cars (one day I was at MacDonalds -this is back in Guatemala- and at the drive-thru I turned the volume up and the ceiling tiles with a light fixture fell off on top of my car, people could hear/feel me coming 3 or 4 blocks away) so all this new thing about EQ it's new for me and a wonderful experience.

I also played with Time Alignment on the HL-70 and suddenly feels like the speaker is outside the car to the left, this is truly amazing and something different for me, I can't wait to go back in my car and listen to more music! and do some more work, even though that means dealing with wires :thumbup:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/0bcd1eda.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9259.jpg

derickveliz2

08-13-2010, 11:42 AM

.
Hertz HL-70s shown on A- Pillars and now lets play with aiming and location. Still don't know if I'm going to integrate in one peace into the A-pillars or maybe I'll build a separate semi sphere and attach it mechanically. :iono:
.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/7d02821d.jpg

derickveliz2

08-13-2010, 12:32 PM

Ok, I'm convinced ....

What ever I hook up in this system is going to sound good!

All 3 amps are running now, the 4 channel amp it's only running 2 channels, it's waiting for the tweeters that I haven't connected.

2 Hertz 3" at the A-Pillards
2 Hifonics Zeus 6.5 in the OEM front doors
1 Bazzooka Tube 10" in the trunk

Yes! a Bazooka !!! and sounds awesome!!!
I still remember how my three 10" Solo-Baric sound, and it hurts to recognize that the Bazooka out performs them, now I have to give them a try and compare! and I don't know if its because I had a Tacoma X-tra cab and the Sedan configuration helps with bass, also all the Matt applied and here is wher I make the difference in Deadening a car for Road noise or make it rattle free and better acoustical environment; what I can tell you is that all the sound deadening works it's way out too, I crank up the volume and step outside, it was very quiet!

Honestly I think is the magic coming from the P-99 with all the audio control to each speaker you can make everything sound GREAT! I was playing this morning turning on/off the woofer and NOW I understand why is so important a good mid-bass in the system, I used to do the same, but every time I turned the woofers off there was no bass left over, instead with this system when I turn the woofer off, there it is all the bass I was missing in other systems, this is more like a drum what we call tight bass, and then when I turn the woofer on, a wonderful deep bass fills in naturally.

I still have a few tweeters to play with or decide to go HAT $$$

Premier small tweeters

JBL T-25 Tweeters

and the tweeters that came with the Zeus

But I'm sure what ever I put there it's going to sound good, the tweeters are going in small spheres near the 3" Hertz.

I really would like to have HAT tweeters for sure, lets see how every thing goes!

Here is an image of the underestimated bazooka tube that sounds great!

http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/images/products/detail/BT1014.jpg

These are the specs for the Premier:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/37fad2a2.jpg

PS... I still hate wiring :mad:

changchewsoon

08-13-2010, 12:53 PM

the head unit looks wicked!

derickveliz2

08-15-2010, 02:17 PM

the head unit looks wicked!

Thank's it is wicked cool all what it does with sound!

derickveliz2

08-15-2010, 02:27 PM

Last night did some more wiring for the tweeters.

I played with all 3 tweeters been the JBL the best and loudest and the Premier the softest and less harsh, the Zeus tweeters fell off right in the middle.

I may just go with the Zeus for now, I know I can set it up to sound the way I like it. The JBL are so good but big, ugly and old. And the premiers are too small.

BTW the sound clarity was very similar on all 3 tweeters and the overall sound of all 4 channels (sub, low, mid, high) together is amazing. Now I have to do some more wiring and start working on the A-Pillars installation.

FcukThis

08-15-2010, 03:41 PM

just mold the h70's into the pillars and wrap them up!

sqcomp

08-15-2010, 04:36 PM

He says JUST mold them into the pillars...

You're such an instigator sometimes. :)

It'll take a good while to fab up and make look proper. I'll offer this as well, look at placing the mids down by the kicks. Do a test with them facing 45 degrees off axis to you in the little kick panels down there. You SHOULD get the audible illusion that they're at ear level on your dash...

How about that for a teaser?

What were the crossover points, slopes, and levels you used on the tweeters? How's the center image with the mids?

AAK! I know it's just me...but that storage pocket on the mounting kit is making my clench my jaw. Are you going to do anything with it, like put a scan gauge piece there?

FcukThis

08-16-2010, 02:28 AM

derickveliz2

08-16-2010, 12:32 PM

just mold the h70's into the pillars and wrap them up!

Yes, that's what I would like to do.

Doesn't sounds easy for a newbie, though

derickveliz2

08-16-2010, 12:47 PM

look at placing the mids down by the kicks. Do a test with them facing 45 degrees off axis to you in the little kick panels down there. You SHOULD get the audible illusion that they're at ear level on your dash...

What were the crossover points, slopes, and levels you used on the tweeters? How's the center image with the mids?

AAK! I know it's just me...but that storage pocket on the mounting kit is making my clench my jaw. Are you going to do anything with it, like put a scan gauge piece there?

I rather not moving the mids down there, but will keep in mind as plan B

This is how far I've been playing with crossover points and slopes; all levels are at +/- 0

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/2678a157.jpg

Center image (the person who is singing) is some where in front of me like 2 or 3 degrees to the left and 1 down. The TA on the graph above show how I have them just by ear. Honestly it's hard for me to know what I'm looking for, so far my good will has been where "Sounds Better" I mean awesome. But I'm sure my settings are all wrong so I'm hopping you can point me in a direction. I wish I had other SQ guys around here to listen to their systems. :iono:

So far sounds amazing and some songs that I just skipped last week just because didn't sound good, now I'm listening because they sound really good.

The storage pocket... mmm I don't like it either but for now I'm just going to use it as a sale point for my wife and tell her, "see and I even made more storage" jeje. :thumbsup: we'll see what happens later.

derickveliz2

08-16-2010, 12:53 PM

Just a suggestion... :]

It really depends how far you want to go with your install. And whether or not you're comfortable with fabbing. Sure it takes a patience and practice, but once you learn how to do it--it really isn't hard.

I mean you could always use pvc cups like me. Took me 20 minutes to mount them.

Check out the diy mobile audio forums-- They got tons of build logs archived. A good way to get some ideas sparkin'.

Here's a link to the build log sub-forum-
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/)

I'm sure I would get some thing done, I've looking around other installs, and practice is what I need and don't have, I've been digging DIYmobileoudio for a while now trying to get ideas, it's a matter of time and choices.

Which one is your thread?

Thanks

D.

derickveliz2

08-16-2010, 02:41 PM

I forgot to mention that I love to feel the Bass in my chest and hair, even if I lean forward away from the seat!

In my previews install when leaning away from the seat some of the Bass feeling was lost, I guess the seats where shaking since the Solo-Barics where facing the rear of the seats.

I just came back from lunch and another example of a song that I played last week and didn't like was Waka_Waka_(The_Official_2010_FIFA_World_Cup) but today sounded really good.

It's amazing how tweaking here and there makes such a big difference.

derickveliz2

08-17-2010, 06:08 PM

How's the center image with the mids?

Mmm, I've been playing with crossover points & TA and now I know how to move the center image left and right, isn't that cool!

Where is your sweet spot? teach me please.

.
:thumbsup:

sqcomp

08-18-2010, 01:13 AM

derickveliz2

08-18-2010, 02:35 AM

My center image? It's straight on the center of the top of the instrument cluster...depending on the recording...but the channel imaging vocal on the IASCA disc is solidly on top of the dash above the dash cover & cluster.

Crossover points are going to help with the depth...

Ok, got it I'll move it there tomorrow, where can I learn more about IASCA disk and competitions, rules or how your system is tested and judge? not that I'm going to compete "no way" but would like to know what every body is trying to accomplish with their sound systems.

About the Crossover points, are there any rules or guides? what to do or what not to do, I know I'm asking too much and everything is relative to components, alignment etc. I've been playing with all these features and it's amazing all the tuning and control that the HU provides.

Probably I'm going to fast, I still need to build my crazy ideas mounting the mids and tweeters on the A-pillars, for now I can only say thank you to all the people who has posted here and help me with my install, all this is a learning process so keep them coming.

Thank you,
Derick

Herbicidal

08-18-2010, 01:39 PM

derickveliz2

08-18-2010, 01:52 PM

Not to take this thread off topic, but I'm curious on what I would look for in a new HU that would allow for all the "sound stage adjustments" you're playing with? Do these tend to fall into the "high end" category? :iono: I would like to take full advantage of the sound deadening and audio components I have installed to date. At the moment, only my HU is still stock. Just thinking a bit about the future and to start saving some $$$'s... Thanks! :thumbsup:

Think no more, P-99 it's one of a kind! and don't worry you are not going off topic here, this is what it's all about, Sound system upgrade and deadening... and you will need to run at least 3 amps and 4 different kind of speakers ... a Subwoofer, a 6.5" midbass, a 3" or 4" midrange and a pair of tweeters. And give up your rear speakers!

LINK (http://www.crutchfield.com/s_130DEXP99R/Pioneer-Stage-4-DEX-P99RS.html?search=p-99) to a $1,200 future investment!

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/products/2010/25/130/x130DEXP99R-f_mt2.jpeg

Herbicidal

08-18-2010, 02:32 PM

HOLY SMOKES!!! OK, I can't honestly justify that baby for my car! That is a SWEET HU though. Thanks for the info. :thumbsup:

sqcomp

08-18-2010, 11:59 PM

Herb...

Look at the JBL MS-8 or the Audison Bit One if you want flexibility and tuning options. They're going to be about half as much as the P99RS.

Now...if you want the big brother to the P99RS:

http://img.kakaku.com/images/productimage/fullscale/70203510919.jpg

This one puts the P99RS (and the P-01) on the lower shelf.

derickveliz2

08-19-2010, 12:39 PM

That looks retro-cool! I bet it's a beast for SQ, if the P-99 its amazing I would be looking forward on his big brother.

BTW my old head unit DEH-P835R-W (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/In-Dash/CD-Players/DEH-P835R-W?tab=B) (10 years old, the best in class back then) in junction with EQ-6500 (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Accessories/AV-Components/EQ-6500) are no way near the sound quality the P-99 provides. It's amazing how technology moves forward in a decade.

Last night I started a crazy idea!!! crazy because it's unusual, new to most of us, just like deadening a car with MLV as a noise barrier and only applying Mat to 25% of the metal surface to control panel resonance... This new concept or idea it's called...

Diffractions

http://www.silcom.com/~aludwig/images/diffdem.gif

PS....
My boss just called me... BAD NEWS....:frown: yeah that's right they are letting me go )o: I guess I'm going to spend more time with my family now and have some more time to work on my car... (thinking positive) :thumbsup:

I'll post pictures of what I did last night! about this crazy idea, and if you would like to read more about diffractions... follow this LINK (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum/65061-improve-your-soundstage-$2.html)

Derick
.

sickpuppy1

08-19-2010, 01:07 PM

Holy crap, what bad news!!! Hope you get something soon! real soon.....

Herbicidal

08-19-2010, 01:30 PM

Herb...

Look at the JBL MS-8 or the Audison Bit One if you want flexibility and tuning options. They're going to be about half as much as the P99RS.
Thanks SQComp! Since I'm still using the stock HU, it would seem to my simple mind that I would not be taking full advantage of either of those units. Would it be better to replace the stock HU with a moderate level upgrade, then connect it to one of those bad boys? :iono:

My boss just called me... BAD NEWS....:frown: yeah that's right they are letting me go )o: I guess I'm going to spend more time with my family now and have some more time to work on my car... (thinking positive) :thumbsup:

Well that just BLOWS!!! About the job that is, not more time with family part. I was laid off last after 12 years with that employer as my I.T position was "outsourced". However, I was brought back on two months later as a contractor. Been back in that capacity for just over a year now. Hopefully you can afford a little time off and can take care of some of your projects, then regroup and find new employment. Hopefully closer to home! Like you said, think positive!

derickveliz2

08-19-2010, 02:07 PM

!!! I was laid off last after 12 years with that employer as my I.T position was "outsourced". However, I was brought back on two months later as a contractor. Been back in that capacity for just over a year now. Hopefully you can afford a little time off and can take care of some of your projects, then regroup and find new employment. Hopefully closer to home! Like you said, think positive!

12 years ago I moved to the US on August 19th, 1998

Thanks Herb, :smile: We'll see what happens.

Derick.

.

derickveliz2

08-19-2010, 02:07 PM

Holy crap, what bad news!!! Hope you get something soon! real soon.....

Thanks, skickpuppy1 me too!

Derick
.

derickveliz2

08-19-2010, 04:52 PM

Here are the pictures of my new project...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/8eb5aff0.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/8f9a0de4.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/597dbd43.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/2ac65fe3.jpg

I tried the left tweeter today and holly cow the tweeter disappears I can't located. And for some reason sounds much clear and crisp without been harsh compare to the one without the sphere, and did a quick test I put the sphere on the right side and I got the same results, I like it.

When I started reading about diffractions I just didn't understand it, but there is some thing there that it's working. It's like the MLV I just didn't get it at the beginning, if this turns to be a very ugly idea I will keep searching for more options, or at least I could say, "my car has big balls!"

D.

sqcomp

08-20-2010, 01:47 AM

derickveliz2

08-20-2010, 02:41 AM

Derick,

Sorry to hear about the job. I know how you feel. I resigned from my last job rather tentatively. I got a job two weeks after that pit my last job to shame. Look forward and not back. Holler at me if you need. You have my phone number.

Now...down to the stereo topics. Out of curiosity, when you say best in class, what class are you talking about? I like the stage 4 install emulation with the spheres! Make it happen! Your question about what you should get is still on my mind. You've got enough sub bass. The old D series subs are good woofers. That leaves the mid bass or the tweeter. I'd look at the L6...used perhaps. I wish you could get a pair for $200 bit that's not going to happen. Maybe some clarus mids. The L1 pros are still on the table.

I don't know how the job thing will affect your purchases. Right now you have all the speakers to make a system work though.

Thanks, I like what you said... "Look forward and not back" inspires me!

10 years ago bought one of the most expensive Pioneer HUs I could find, I was referring to that one, compare to the P-99 10 years after technology is much better.

About the spheres I think I'm going to drop off the 5" sphere :frown: for the Mids, they are too big and they bring the Mids closer together so I'm thinking that its not good, my stage narrows if I do that and I would like to have it as wide as possible. But the smaller spheres for tweeters it's a go!

I think I'm not going to buy :cry: expensive L6 ( I would love to :cry:) for now I'm going to be on the safe side until I find out what's going to happen, I'm struggling about the L1 pros, I guess my mind will be much better next week to talk about them. Don't move them from the table!:thumbsup:

Tomorrow is my last day officially at work, lots of things to bring home.

Looking Forward!
:burnrubber:

sqcomp

08-20-2010, 12:00 PM

derickveliz2

08-20-2010, 04:04 PM

10 years ago...thinking thinking thinking...the best Pioneer you could get was the ODR P9 combo. Alpine's was the F#1, McIntosh had the MX5000, Clarion had the DRZ(x) 9255, Nakamichi had the CD700II, I seem to remember Panasonic had that gorgeous tube deck...

There are a few more.

Do some staging experaments with your mids down in the kickpanels. If you find that you like that sound, take the tweeters ABOVE 8kHz on the crossover.

Those L1s aren't going anywhere. They're collecting dust. Scott would be happy that they might go to a good home. Oh...the L4s might be coming out to make room for the L4SE soon... he he... want a mid that can play over 7 octaves? he he

You are so good! I can imagine my lack of knowledge when I went to the car-audio shop and asked for the best HU they had in store. Probably I looked like a dummy with cash in hand for them...

I'm just a music lover that learns from brilliant people like you!

Ok I'll try to move the mids down in the kickpanels but some thing tells me I won't like it, I could be wrong but I'm a good listener and you are a great teacher.
so tweeters about 8kHz what about the mids? from ? to ?

Thanks (L1s) I'll contact you next week (from home I guess?)

Ok, now you are killing me L4s too, I'll wait a couple of month and you'll be changing your car!
tell me how can you translate to me "play over 7 octaves" compare to the HL-70 Hertz please?

Thanks for every thing!

Here is a picture of my car this morning!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yarisito/c476b504.jpg

Alien Mantis

08-20-2010, 11:33 PM

Ok, now you are killing me L4s too, I'll wait a couple of months and you'll be changing your car!

I see you have this game ALL FIGURED OUT.

:biggrin:

Now, do yourself a huge favor, throw your stuff in that car, and BE DONE WITH IT!

( otherwise, you are doomed to a lifetime of "fiddling" and "tinkering" and "money-spending" like SqComp )

:smoking:

sqcomp

08-20-2010, 11:52 PM

Ouch! I'm just giving options. The L-4 goes 90Hz to 17kHz.

derickveliz2

08-21-2010, 02:45 AM

:biggrin:
Now, do yourself a huge favor, throw your stuff in that car, and BE DONE WITH IT!
:smoking:

Sounds like the "never ending story"

Thanks A. M. that would be like a dream come true!

D.

derickveliz2

08-21-2010, 02:47 AM

The L-4 goes 90Hz to 17kHz.

Wow!

Wow!

Wow!

the one speaker does it all! :w00t:

D.

derickveliz2

08-21-2010, 02:48 AM

.
Ok, a second thought after many storm ideas... the 5" balls are back in at the drawing board...

D.

.

_S7V7N_

08-22-2010, 12:29 AM

Good lord bro, i took a brief vacation...And you still at this project, Everything is looking good :thumbup:

derickveliz2

08-23-2010, 06:19 PM

Good lord bro, i took a brief vacation...And you still at this project, Everything is looking good :thumbup:

Thanks!

little by little! and I'll be here for a while.... :iono:

I hope you had good vacations! where did you go?

derickveliz2

08-24-2010, 02:13 PM

Hey guys I'm ebarrased! yes I'm ...
I'm getting engine noise :iono: to my mids and tweets (more in the mids) but it's weird...

The amp it's right behind the pilots seat so I can reach it very easy and after a little bump on the road the engine noise will start, or right when I turn the HU on, with my hand I tap on the RCA cables where they meet the amp and the noise is gone, suddenly the noise is back and I tap them again, I would drive for 30 miles with no problem, stop for gas and when I turn on the engine and then the HU the noise comes back!

I touch the RCAs and the noise is gone?

I know I should get other CRA cables and swap them to see if they are defective, but just wanted to throw this out and see if any body had seen this before. And yes my power cables are on the right side and RCAs on the left side.

.
:cry:

.