Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade [Archive] - Page 3 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Alien Mantis

08-25-2010, 11:11 PM

This is the plan for the 5" balls, I did chop the left side and looks like it may work. The idea is to get the speakers as far apart from each other.
It's time to think about fiberglass and a-pillars, this is my first encounter with these materials, we'll see how it goes.

What are you gonna do with those BALLS in the car?

Glue `em up on the dash or something ???

I think SqComp has got you all cranked up.
Just throw your components in your doors, and BE DONE!

Remember, SqComp is going overboard with his system.

WAY OVERBOARD.

Do a nice clean stealth install, and forget about those A-pillars!
Also forget about mid-bass in the kicks!
That's where your FEET go! I would be kicking the crap outta those things mounted down there.
The Yaris is already lacking leg room, IMHO, so why encroach on that space with mid-bass drivers?

If I had to run a 4-way setup.... I would put components in the front doors, a pair of 8" shallow mount subs in the rear speaker locations ( hatchback model Yaris ), and a single 10" or 12" in the back area.

DONE DEAL.

Whip it up... crank it out... and crank it up!

NO MORE FOOLING AROUND!

You are gettin` to be as bad as SqComp !!!

lol

:biggrin:

A CAR STEREO IS NOT A CAREER!

derickveliz2

08-26-2010, 12:42 AM

What are you gonna do with those BALLS in the car?

Glue `em up on the dash or something ???

I think SqComp has got you all cranked up.
Just throw your components in your doors, and BE DONE!

Remember, SqComp is going overboard with his system.

WAY OVERBOARD.

DONE DEAL.

Whip it up... crank it out... and crank it up!

NO MORE FOOLING AROUND!

You are gettin` to be as bad as SqComp !!!

lol

:biggrin:

A CAR STEREO IS NOT A CAREER!

Yeah!!! you made me laugh :laugh:, since the bad news :frown: last week I've been kind of blue :cry:, thanks a lot! :thumbsup:

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

I really want to do the balls, I know I'm going to get in trouble but at least I'll have some thing to do! lol

.

sqcomp

08-26-2010, 03:31 PM

Grab YO BALLZ and go for it! If you need some finishing advice, let me know.

It looks like Scott is presenting me with a house warming gift...I may just keep those L1 Pros...

I hope you're not upset.

I don't know exactly what he's going to send, a pair of L6 SEs maybe? That would make for one hell of a three way monitor set. L1 Pro, L4, L6 SE? Psssht! Burl veneer all the way!

derickveliz2

08-26-2010, 03:41 PM

Grab YO BALLZ and go for it! If you need some finishing advice, let me know.
I may just keep those L1 Pros...
I hope you're not upset.
L1 Pro, L4, L6 SE? Psssht! Burl veneer all the way!

I'll take as many advices, you know that.

Don't worry I'm not upset, L1 Pro are too big for me (if I go with balls the sphere would have to be much bigger that what I have expected and I think it won't look good).

I may go with L1v2 instead.

.
:thumbsup:

sqcomp

08-26-2010, 06:28 PM

You want me to throw you some info on them? I can also see about B stock pricing as well...

derickveliz2

08-26-2010, 06:30 PM

You want me to throw you some info on them? I can also see about B stock pricing as well...

info info info please!!!:wink:
THAT WOULD BE NICE! :drool:

derickveliz2

09-01-2010, 08:47 AM

.:w00t:

The other day I was looking at a Mercedesbenz, inside the rear wheel wells they have some sort of turf material like an outside carpet, that's clever a good tip I bet it helps deadening the splash water hitting the fender on rainy days... how could we attach some of this carpet under there?

Another project on the "to do" list!

D.

derickveliz2

09-06-2010, 10:56 PM

Wow... been unemployed I though I was going to have a lot of free time, well... that's not the case, just looking for work turns into a full time job, besides trying to put all my ideas in order and try to work some thing out, it's been very hard.

On the other hand... my Yaris got a rear suspension make over! yeah I have a lot to post on the wheels and suspension thread, but my intention was to beef up the rear to support the big heavy subwoofer box. So far so good. Pictures soon...

PS... finally I got rid of the spacers and my rear tires don't rub any more. (o: [10mm spacers got stuck)

D.

derickveliz2

09-08-2010, 08:24 AM

Ok, last night I put the heavy box with three 10 in Solo-Baric woofers, it's connected I didn't crank it up and feel the Bass, it was 2 a.m.

My big concern is the rear suspension and handling, I hope it's worth all the benefits towards SQ.

derickveliz2

09-08-2010, 12:06 PM

OK, 3 better than 1. :eek:

The Solo-Barics handle bass much better than the Bazooka Tube, and Yes the box it's much heavier, I think I can live with it!

It's time to go after some little rattles in the trunk. :cool:

The Bass from the Solo-Barics was absorbing the Mid-Bass from the Lows in my doors (6.5" drive) This is where sqcomp has a tremendous advantage with his HAT's L8s low in the kick panels :mad: I had to bump up 2 dB (+2) and lower the Subs 2 dB (-2) for a perfect match.

The ability to "MUTE" each channel from the HU it's very helpful and teaches me about frequencies and how music comes out from the speakers.

D.:thumbup:

derickveliz2

09-08-2010, 02:41 PM

This is how it looks inside the cabin with mids on the dashboard... Note: tweeters not shown...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/7d02821d.jpg

derickveliz2

09-09-2010, 01:09 PM

I got this article (Six Ways to Prevent or Eliminate Audio System Noise) from Car Audio and Electronics, it's a must read.

Six Ways to Prevent or Eliminate Audio System Noise

LINK TO ARTICLE (http://caraudiomag.com/articles/six-ways-prevent-or-eliminate-audio-system-noise?utm_source=newsletter100909&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=six-ways-prevent-or-eliminate-audio-system-noise)

D.

derickveliz2

09-09-2010, 05:14 PM

Ok, after 160 miles testing the Solos, I switched back to the Bazooka this morning... my thoughs:

How heavy?
Solo-Barics --- 90 pounds
Bazooka --- 17 pounds

Car Handling?
Solo-Barics --- Feels very heavy, and not very responsive
Bazooka --- Very sportier stable and nimble, specially on the highway and at runs

How good they sound?
Solo-Barics --- Loud shakes all the car, better at high volume
Bazooka --- Not as loud %15 less than Solos, best for SQ at low-moderate volume

I'm confused / frustated :iono: :iono: :iono:

70 pounds doesn't sound much, but remember all the weight that comes from deadening, It feels like 5 adults + groceries :frown:

FcukThis

09-09-2010, 05:33 PM

whoa! three 10" Solo barics vs. a bazooka ?
Only 15% louder?!

Hm, to me-- that's a hands down bazooka win.

But some things to consider?
1.) What about kick/impact, Do you still get it with the bazooka?

2.) How about the rattles, do the solo barics produce any annoying jiggles in the trunk?--I had a pair of subs in my trunk several months back. I loved the way they sounded, but they rattled my car way too much.. Because of it, i hesitated to crank up the volume.

3.) Consider the low end capabilities, which hits lows better. And/or which will produce better sound for the type of music you listen to ?

4.) Power efficiency. Since we're only talking 15% loudness when comparing the two. The bazooka only takes 50watts compared to 200watts per say(I'm making up numbers) to power the solo barics. Less strain on your system.

5.) Weight, which you have pointed out. I used to drive to school everyday w/ a full load. (me + 4 friends). everytime i would get on the highway, it sounded like my car was going into overdrive.. Just horrible!! Handling...Oh boy, i dont even want to get started. It was hard to merge from lane to lane sometimes.
If the weight difference makes driving unenjoyable, clearly it's a no go!

Add the weight of your deadening, +70 pounds, +groceries, + your family/passengers. I can really see how things would add up.

47_MasoN_47

09-09-2010, 05:33 PM

I believe you, I can tell a difference just in loading up a few computers in the trunk. So how much total weight did your deadening add?

derickveliz2

09-09-2010, 06:13 PM

BLUE TEXT IS "ME"

FcukThis;whoa! three 10" Solo barics vs. a bazooka ?
Only 15% louder?!

Hm, to me-- that's a hands down bazooka win.

Either way... the Bazooka sounds too good or I'm disappointed with the Solo-Barics

But some things to consider?
1.) What about kick/impact, Do you still get it with the bazooka?

At low to moderate volume Bazooka Tube does ass good as the Solos

2.) How about the rattles, do the solo barics produce any annoying jiggles in the trunk?--I had a pair of subs in my trunk several months back. I loved the way they sounded, but they rattled my car way too much.. Because of it, i hesitated to crank up the volume.

Yes! Solo-Barics shake the car more than the Bazooka

3.) Consider the low end capabilities, which hits lows better. And/or which will produce better sound for the type of music you listen to ?

Bazooka hits the lows better, Solo-Barics handle better the other end; at low-moderate volume the Bazooka satisfies me better, to SHOW-OFF I'll rather have the Solos, I don't know if you get my point?

4.) Power efficiency. Since we're only talking 15% loudness when comparing the two. The bazooka only takes 50watts compared to 200watts per say(I'm making up numbers) to power the solo barics. Less strain on your system.

My amp put out 300 watts:
Bazooka is rated at 300 watts
Solo-Barics are rated 350 watts each
The guru expert guys may explain this better.

5.) Weight, which you have pointed out. I used to drive to school everyday w/ a full load. (me + 4 friends). everytime i would get on the highway, it sounded like my car was going into overdrive.. Just horrible!! Handling...Oh boy, i dont even want to get started. It was hard to merge from lane to lane sometimes.
If the weight difference makes driving unenjoyable, clearly it's a no go!

Add the weight of your deadening, +70 pounds, +groceries, + your family/passengers. I can really see how things would add up.

Yes you got the point!

Me thinking............... :help:

.

derickveliz2

09-09-2010, 06:15 PM

So how much total weight did your deadening add?

MLV= 1lb / sqfoot

MLV=90 pounds
MAT=70 pounds

so that's around 160 pounds, just estimating.

47_MasoN_47

09-09-2010, 06:17 PM

Holy crap, that's a good bit more than I'd expected.

Alien Mantis

09-10-2010, 12:44 AM

[QUOTE=derickveliz2;509663]

My amp put out 300 watts:
Bazooka is rated at 300 watts
Solo-Barics are rated 350 watts each
The guru expert guys may explain this better.

SMACK!

:thumbdown:

This is your problem.
You don't have anywhere near enough AMP to push 3 Solobarics!

You need a 900 watt amp on those Solobarics.
You put a bigger amp on those things, and you will see a huge difference.

300watts is good for one Bachuka.

I am putting 400watts on one Alpine Type-R.
And it's just enough!
I would run a 900 watt amp on 2 Type-R's.

Underpowered subs suck, and you can actually hurt the subwoofer by not giving it enough power.

Lots of articles on the internet about this.

One other thing: did you ever tell us anything about the BOX those Solobarics are in? Sealed or ported? What Ft^3 ?
Also, what model Solobarics? L5 or L7 ?
( L7's are bigtime power hungry beasts )
How do you have them wired up? What is the total OHMS load? Are they single or dual voice coil? What ohm per coil?
What is the RMS power rating of your amp at WHAT OHM LOAD?
You gotta match up these numbers correctly, or you will cook your amp, or severely underpower your subs.

How about a photo of them!

derickveliz2

09-10-2010, 01:13 AM

SMACK!

:thumbdown:

This is your problem.
You don't have anywhere near enough AMP to push 3 Solobarics!

You need a 900 watt amp on those Solobarics.
You put a bigger amp on those things, and you will see a huge difference.

300watts is good for one Bachuka.

How about a photo of them!

YEAH! I knew there was something going on beyond my knowledge...

Thanks AM I will be posting more info about them...

D.

derickveliz2

09-11-2010, 03:45 AM

Before I post the information of the woofers and amp, check this out!

The car is off and everything is quiet, I turn the HU on, music plays really nice (very low volume), then I pause the music... complete silence then I turn the parking lights on and I hear a small Bizzzzzzzzzzzzz on the right side Tweeter and Midrange...:iono: :iono: :iono:

I turn the lights off Bizzzzzzzz goes away. :iono:

any clues?

Thanks

D. :iono:

DailyDriver

09-12-2010, 12:20 AM

your speaker wires are running too close to your wires for the turn signal. u just need to separate them. if it isn't possible to separate them, insulate the crap out of them. if they actually have to cross, then cross them at 90 degrees or perpendicular to each other, and try to insulate them as best as you can. should be that easy. (fingers crossed)

sqcomp

09-12-2010, 01:32 AM

D,

Adding to what DD is saying, take a look at your wire runs in their entirety. That buzz could be several things. The ground loop is constant correct? Not off and on with your signal?

Note...remember how I killed one of my LRx amps? That was a ground loop. I didn't have any noise either. If you're that far into it it could be a speaker wire OR an RCA as well.

That's why I suggest looking at your runs in their entirety. I know it's a bish...it'll save you some headache if you do it now.

Also, feel free to drop the shop a line. The guys will be able to talk you through some possibilities.

Alien Mantis

09-12-2010, 04:40 PM

And this is why it is important to do a CAREFUL wiring job.

The wiring job is just as important as the gear you buy.

Since a car stereo rides on the same electrical system as the rest of the car, all kinds of sneaky issues can crop up.

Which is why we try and separate / isolate the audio system wiring as much as possible during an install.
Some issues are avoidable, with a careful wiring job.

I seen one car that had a whine coming through the speakers, it was relative to engine RPM. If the engine was off, there was no whine.
It turned out to be a bad diode in the alternator.
Alternator was replaced, and the whine went away.

Some issues are hard to track down.

Since you said it was buzzing on the right side components, do some isolation tests.
Swap your RCA's at the amp, and see if the problem switches over to the other side.
If it does, then track it back. If it doesn't change anything, track it forward.

:biggrin:

And.... you were going to give us some info on your subwoofer setup I believe? With pictures too?

*AHEM*

47_MasoN_47

09-13-2010, 12:36 PM

Sounds to me like the wires may either have a ground loop or that your wires are running too close to the current for your lights.

derickveliz2

09-14-2010, 01:30 AM

One other thing: did you ever tell us anything about the BOX those Solobarics are in? Sealed or ported? What Ft^3 ?
Also, what model Solobarics? L5 or L7 ?
( L7's are bigtime power hungry beasts )
How do you have them wired up? What is the total OHMS load? Are they single or dual voice coil? What ohm per coil?
What is the RMS power rating of your amp at WHAT OHM LOAD?
You gotta match up these numbers correctly, or you will cook your amp, or severely underpower your subs.

How about a photo of them!

Here are some specs and notes from the Solo-Barics and Amp:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/634e822f.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/39c428c0.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/424e2108.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/546e20d0.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9610.jpg

I'm running Parallel at 4 Ohm

Here are the specs for the Bachuka

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/8329ca3b.jpg

In other words I could run only one Solo-Baric and get good results? I should try it!

This is the LINK for the Manual (http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/SolodMan.pdf) (Solo-Barics)
.

derickveliz2

09-14-2010, 01:32 AM

.
Thanks everybody for all the input about the "noise" I'm running behind schedule but I'll catch up and try every suggestion. I'll keep a log and let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks again!

Derick.

Alien Mantis

09-15-2010, 06:37 PM

Ok, you got them old-skool round solobarics.

Classics!

You still didn't tell us how you have them wired-up, and the voice coil info.
( your total OHM load )

That Pioneer amp you have is really sweet, but it's NOT a subwoofer amp.

This is what you need right here:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11795_Kenwood+KAC-9104D.html

Can't beat that deal! 900 watts RMS @ 2 ohms, FREE SHIPPING, what more could ya want?

:biggrin:

derickveliz2

09-15-2010, 08:16 PM

You still didn't tell us how you have them wired-up, and the voice coil info.
( your total OHM load )

That Pioneer amp you have is really sweet, but it's NOT a subwoofer amp.

:biggrin:

I'm sorry but my lack of knowledge is wining this time:

I think I wired them up in parallel see image below.

voice coil info? total OHM load?>>> I'm clue less where do I get that? :iono:

How do I know if an amp it's a subwoofer amp? I thought it was :brokenheart:

Thanks for all the help

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1SVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

derickveliz2

09-15-2010, 08:19 PM

Today I had to do the sticker (inspection) in my car, so I took all the wires, mids and tweets out the view. Pass...

Then I went to the local car-audio store and got my self good RCAs. some wires to get ground to the HU from the main ground I have for the amps.

So here I go again taking that back seat out, passengers seat and trim panels around and below HU...

we'll see.

(o:

FcukThis

09-15-2010, 09:06 PM

Oh man.. interior removal..
What a pain..

Been there, done that.. Twice.. it sucks!

Best of luck Derick, hope all the problems go away.

derickveliz2

09-16-2010, 01:38 AM

Oh man.. interior removal..
What a pain..

Been there, done that.. Twice.. it sucks!

Best of luck Derick, hope all the problems go away.

Thanks me 2!

D.

sqcomp

09-16-2010, 02:13 AM

I'd take a look at the spec sheets for the D series solos. I was mistaken when I thought that these were D series.

Alien Mantis

09-16-2010, 05:22 PM

I think I wired them up in parallel see image below.
voice coil info? total OHM load?>>> I'm clue less where do I get that? :iono:
How do I know if an amp it's a subwoofer amp? I thought it was

You THINK?
( you need to know this stuff )

That image does not relate to your system.
That image is one single voice coil sub, on one monoblock amp at 4 ohms.
YOU are running 3 subs ( unknown voice coils ) on a 2-channel amp!

You get YOUR info by looking at the back of your subs, and the wiring.
Check to see if they are dual or single voice coils, what OHMS they are, and exactly how they are wired-up.
That will allow you to determine what your total OHM LOAD is.

A SUBWOOFER AMP is typically a CLASS D MONOBLOCK.

You cannot do a proper install of a car audio system without knowing your speaker loads. PERIOD.

So look into that, and then tell us what you find.

:smoking:

derickveliz2

09-16-2010, 07:45 PM

You THINK?
( you need to know this stuff )
You cannot do a proper install of a car audio system without knowing your speaker loads. PERIOD.

So look into that, and then tell us what you find.

:smoking:

Knowledge is power... so I'm popping out one of the Solos tonight, I'll let you know.

Thanks a million :thumbsup:

sqcomp

09-16-2010, 09:09 PM

There are exeptions to the sub amp being a D class..mine is an A/B. Just being disagreeable with AM. :)

derickveliz2

09-17-2010, 03:23 AM

Knowledge is power... so I'm popping out one of the Solos tonight, I'll let you know.

Thanks a million :thumbsup:

I did it and it doesn't say any where what king of woofer is, besides the logo and "Still Water Designs" there are 2 connectors + and - and it says 8 OHMS. Wires go all positive from each woofer together to positive on amp and all negative together to negative on amp.

Will post pictures tomorrow.

D.

derickveliz2

09-17-2010, 03:29 AM

.
OK, I did all the wiring possible...

-redo the main - ground connection.
-new ground from main ground for HU
-new shield RCA cables
-ran blue wire (signal) on the other side of RCAs

when I turned the engine on....

bizzz bizzzz brrrrmmm burrrrmmmm :iono: :iono:

I tap with my had the new RCA where they plug into the amp (4 channel amp for mids and tweets) and the noise is gone! tap them again and the noise comes back, what a bummer!

is my amp "BAD" :cry::brokenheart::cry:

.:brokenheart: do I need 2 new amps or what? :help:

.

derickveliz2

09-17-2010, 01:32 PM

It's confusing...
This morning on my way to work I stopped to check the wires around like 3 or 4 times, and the noise was still there every time, suddenly one of the tweeters got disconnected (right side) and the noise was gone, I drove for another 50 miles and no noise at all. :iono:

When I got to work I connected the right tweeter and no music was coming out of it. then I switched left & right and the right tweeter was OK, I switched back and I pushed hard the RCAs into the amp and I got music, no noise at all. :eek:
A good feature of the P-99 is that I can easily MUTE any speaker to isolate the one I'm working on, very handy.

Maybe the amps input is loose or bad for that channel? I'm going to keep testing on my way back home tonight.

Regardless of all the noise issues... sound was great! when no engine noise was present.

I apologize if I write all my frustrations here. But it helps me realize what's going on, and really appreciate your :bow: feed back, thanks a million. :thumbsup:

derickveliz2

09-17-2010, 01:46 PM

SoloBaric Pictures:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TJOam2VXTuI/AAAAAAAAb-w/O5hMYud9LYs/s512/DSC_4242.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TJOanpLmwLI/AAAAAAAAb-4/nfDDsiyFj7Y/s512/DSC_4243.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TJOaocwvRfI/AAAAAAAAb_A/y5v1V01z6H0/s512/DSC_4244.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TJOa1sLZY4I/AAAAAAAAb_I/GZ3LXRQpjLs/s512/DSC_4206.JPG

Alien Mantis

09-17-2010, 04:39 PM

Ah-HA!

Now you know what you are dealing with.
You have three "single voice-coil subs", 8ohm each.
Wired in parallel, they give you 2.6 ohms total load.

That Kenwood amp I recommended would push them nicely.
( Or any other subwoofer monoblock amp that has around 1,000 watts RMS @ 2ohm load )

Alien Mantis

09-17-2010, 04:44 PM

.
I tap with my hand the new RCA where they plug into the amp (4 channel amp for mids and tweets) and the noise is gone! tap them again and the noise comes back, what a bummer!
is my amp "BAD" ? :cry:

do I need 2 new amps or what? :help:

Looks like it!

Good job tracking the problem down. I think you found it.

BTW.... what is the amp that has the problem? Brand, model?
( I hope it's not a really expensive one )

You know, you can move that Pioneer Premier amp you have on your subs over to your components. That would be a better solution for them anyway.
Then just buy that Kenwood classD monoblock for your solobarics.

:biggrin:

derickveliz2

09-17-2010, 05:16 PM

What if I only use 1 SoloBaric?

as a short term solution...?

Thanks a million

derickveliz2

09-17-2010, 05:17 PM

This is the amp with problems...

GM-X1024 and LINK (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/Other/GM-X1024?tab=B)

thanks

Alien Mantis

09-17-2010, 08:48 PM

What if I only use 1 SoloBaric? as a short term solution...?

How about just using your single Bachuka tube?

If it gives you enough low-end, then run it!

This whole discussion was started because you said your three solobarics were only slightly louder than your single Bachuka tube.

Which made no sense to me, until I found out more about the rest of your system.

You seem to be so caught up in what SqComp is doing with his system, you maybe neglected some of the more basic rules of "CAR AUDIO".

I am just offering friendly advice.
Do whatever makes you happy. Have fun with it.
You have questions, and people on this forum like to volunteer their knowledge and experience.

It's all good.

:smoking:

Alien Mantis

09-17-2010, 09:06 PM

This is the amp with problems...

GM-X1024 and LINK (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/Other/GM-X1024?tab=B)

thanks

Oh bummer.

That is a really nice amp. It says it has a 2-year warranty. Have you had it for 2 years already? If it's still under warranty, you might need to send it in for a full check-up.

:frown:

derickveliz2

09-18-2010, 12:38 AM

How about just using your single Bachuka tube?

If it gives you enough low-end, then run it!

This whole discussion was started because you said your three solobarics were only slightly louder than your single Bachuka tube.

Which made no sense to me, until I found out more about the rest of your system.

You seem to be so caught up in what SqComp is doing with his system, you maybe neglected some of the more basic rules of "CAR AUDIO".

I am just offering friendly advice.
Do whatever makes you happy. Have fun with it.
You have questions, and people on this forum like to volunteer their knowledge and experience.

It's all good.

:smoking:

Hey! I'm here to listen and learn, this is not easy or cheap and many others could learn too.

I learn from my mistakes and I like to share my experiences with others and value every feed back; I enjoy so much this forum, and when friends like you take the time to read my stuff and feed back to me I appreciate every word.

I'm having fun and some times I get frustrated but it's a good frustration that takes the stress away from me.

You made a very good point about 3 Solos versus Bachuca, my lack of knowledge made me make a statement that made no sense.

Thanks Alien Mantis!

derickveliz2

09-18-2010, 12:40 AM

Oh bummer.

That is a really nice amp. It says it has a 2-year warranty. Have you had it for 2 years already? If it's still under warranty, you might need to send it in for a full check-up.

:frown:

You are not going to believe me...

almost 11 years old :redface:

.

Alien Mantis

09-18-2010, 04:16 AM

11 years old? Wow. A classic.

:biggrin:

I have a 16 year old Urban Audio Worx amp that still works, but you don't see me installing it in my Yaris!

The new technology is just so much better than it was years ago.
You can do a really nice system for a reasonable amount of money, if you just avoid those "boutique" products.
( as in: the stuff SqComp is using )

:smoking:

sqcomp

09-18-2010, 09:08 PM

http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-rolleyes009.gif Boutique?

Hater :thumbdown:

Seriously though, boutique would be using Thesis amps and Accuton drivers. I'm just on the lower rung of top-end. LRx amps are actually fairly affordable...if you work your angles correctly.

There's an M car in our shop right now that's using Mosconi and Sinfoni amps. I'd classify the latter as boutique way before my stuff.

Alien Mantis

09-19-2010, 02:19 AM

YES, the stuff is "boutique"..... and NO I am not a "hater".

I love all that hi-end stuff.

I just can't afford it, nor would I spend that much money on a car audio system unless I won the lottery.

I was driving around in my little Yaris today, jamming my $500 stereo system, thinking how great it sounded and how happy I was.

That's what counts!

:tongue:

sickpuppy1

09-19-2010, 09:38 AM

Now kids,play nice.LOL Gotta remember too though, SQcomp is building his system for just what his name implies, sound quality competitions, which is more to be a much more critical listener than just cruzing wit ma tunes kinda listening. Whats good enough for a casual listener, even one with better taste than normal,is not good enough to compete.

And your right alien, its what makes ya happy that counts. Its funny, I work with a guy that is a pretty good guitar player. He collects classic electric guitars and only uses tube amps and pre-amps because the SQ is so much better, and even then he prefers certain tubes because the Russian tubes sound better than the Chinese tubes, but still not as good as the Slovakian ones, but they are too pricey, etc. Now when it comes to listening to music on a cd or radio? he doesnt give a rats patooty if it's a McIntosh, Krell, Mark Levinson or a walmart boombox, its all the same to him. So yeah, whatever floats your boat,huh

Alien Mantis

09-19-2010, 06:29 PM

Yeah, totally.

But AFAIK, Derick Veliz is NOT competing in audio SQ competitions.
And much of this thread is about his system.

I play guitar too. And all players are fussy about the "tone" they like.

For me: ENGL POWERBALL all the way!
( an amp that I do not own, but would like to someday.... )

sqcomp

09-19-2010, 08:53 PM

Don't get the wrong impression...I'm just giving AM a ribbing. I COMPLETELY understand where we are. If I hadn't gone to Iraq, I'd be into some components that are a LOT less pricey. You can take that one to the bank.

You notice what source Derick is using...Someone want to call his stuff "boutique"? He he

Alien Mantis

09-19-2010, 11:41 PM

Yeah, it's all in good fun.

SqComp knows what he's doing. I just like to pick on him sometimes.

:biggrin:

Isn't Derick running one of them DEX-P99RS source units?
( basically, same as the Carrozeria )

It may be made by PIONEER.... but with a $1,349 MSRP.... that sucker is BOO-KOO BOUTIQUE!

:eek:

( yes, I know, it is a really sweet head unit! )

derickveliz2

09-20-2010, 01:14 AM

Me thinking!
I guess I need a new amp!

I did find what was causing the engine noise and it's one of the (RCA) channels of the 4x65 amp

Feels like there is some thing loose inside, if I hold it, and apply pressure the noise goes away, so I end up opening the amp and looking for something loose but every thing looks ok, I put it back together and put it back in the Yaris.

So there could be some thing wrong with my amp, I wonder if I can still use the 2x150 watts for one channel? and then I could add a 4th amp for the subwoofer(s) I recognize my amps are old, and AM is right, today's technology is way much better than 10 years ago.

more testing this week.

You guys are great! some times I really need my distractions! besides cutting the lawn

Thanks
D.

derickveliz2

09-20-2010, 05:17 PM

.

OK, I'm taking the 4x65 watts amp out and getting new one from www.sonicelectronix.com

.:thumbsup:

sqcomp

09-20-2010, 10:35 PM

Which one are you getting?

derickveliz2

09-20-2010, 11:41 PM

Which one are you getting?

I guess another 4 channel Pioneer!

D.

derickveliz2

09-21-2010, 01:56 AM

Any thing in mind?

Alien Mantis

09-21-2010, 04:48 PM

WHAT are you going to power with the new amp?

Be specific, please.

( and WHERE will you mount the new amp? )

derickveliz2

09-21-2010, 04:56 PM

WHAT are you going to power with the new amp?

Be specific, please.

( and WHERE will you mount the new amp? )

Thanks AM...

The amp goes behind pilot's seat, on the floor.

1.-Mids: Hertz HL-70 (http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/0bcd1eda.jpg) 3" full range

2.-Highs: Pioneer Premier 1" Titanium Dome Tweeters

From this components:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/37fad2a2.jpg

Alien Mantis

09-21-2010, 07:34 PM

To be honest, there are so many amps out there, it is hard to recommend one of them.

You pick a few that you like, and let us know.

You can find something in just about any price-range, but there is also alot of JUNK out there.
It's also easy to get sucked into the higher-end stuff, when you really don't need it.
Try to find a balance between price/performance/name-brand/features.

Good luck.

FcukThis

09-21-2010, 09:12 PM

sqcomp

09-21-2010, 09:17 PM

I'll agree with the last if you're looking for something that stretches your dollar right now.

Alien Mantis

09-21-2010, 10:25 PM

Ok, I ain't gonna lie.... I was really tempted to recommend THIS one:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9172_SPL+FX4-840.html

:biggrin:

derickveliz2

09-21-2010, 11:12 PM

I was looking at this:

http://i.seimg.net/images/380604/main/gmd9500f.jpg

................. LINK (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem_c.php?id=22382)

but will post in DIYMA before pulling the trigger.

.
:thumbsup:

Alien Mantis

09-21-2010, 11:44 PM

Okay, there ya go.

Snag it. It will do the job.

See how easy that was?

:biggrin:

derickveliz2

09-22-2010, 12:46 AM

go to the DIYMA classified section and post a 'wanted' thread.
Something along the lines of : " Looking for 4x65 sq amp "
Have the deals come to you!! Win win. Then you can post some of the deals on here and we can help you narrow down the selection ?

Whaaaa whaaaaa :cry: :cry: :cry:

I can't post in the classifieds :iono: I need at least 50 posts and I only have 19 :redface:

.:cry:

sqcomp

09-22-2010, 12:48 PM

Well? Start posting. You'll find out from DIYMA that the Morel Supremo line is the most awesomest killa speaker line out... PBBBTTTTHHH! Yeah right.

derickveliz2

09-22-2010, 12:54 PM

Well? Start posting. You'll find out from DIYMA that the Morel Supremo line is the most awesomest killa speaker line out... PBBBTTTTHHH! Yeah right.

I will :thumbsup:

D.

derickveliz2

09-22-2010, 05:24 PM

Pick up a soundstream or PPI !!!

In all seriousness though Derick, if i were in your shoes, i would go to the DIYMA classified section and post a 'wanted' thread.
Something along the lines of : " Looking for 4x65 sq amp "
Have the deals come to you!! Win win. Then you can post some of the deals on here and we can help you narrow down the selection ?

Check these amps...

LINK (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/classifieds/89394-ton-amps-sale-all-o-s-audio-art-ppi-soundstream-us-acoustics.html)

and more stuff here...

LINK 2 (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/classifieds/89563-12-hr-sale-then-will-delete.html#post1131042)

D.

derickveliz2

09-22-2010, 06:39 PM

I got this offer too:

This is the message that was sent:
***************
i have an mb quart dsc 480 80x4 or an eclipse xa4000 125x4 both brand new in box. mb quart is 100 plus shipping the eclipse is 200 plus shipping.

Alien Mantis

09-22-2010, 07:44 PM

I didn't like the signal-to-noise on the MB Quart amp.

That cheap SPL had better specs, but who knows if you can trust those numbers.
"Numbers" get played with all the time.

That DIYMA site looks like a bunch of hackbobs pawning their junk.

Deal with a reputable business. Not some joe-schmoe on the internet.

:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

09-23-2010, 12:53 PM

Pst...

another P99 user... (http://caraudiomag.com/articles/porsche-911-gt3-install?utm_source=newsletter100923&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=porsche-911-gt3-install)

derickveliz2

09-23-2010, 01:47 PM

Help/advice Matching amp to subwoofer... :iono:

I'm having trouble understanding about Ohms, # of voice coils, etc. Matching Amp to sub-woofer seems to be very important...

So what if I get a Pioneer Digital Series Class D Monoblock amp! what would be a good SQ 12" or 15" subwoofer to match this amp? Or is this a good amp to hook up 1 of my old Solo-Barics? ["single voice-coil sub", 8ohm]

LINK to amp specs (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22154_Pioneer+GM-D8500M.html)

http://i.seimg.net/images/376811/main/gmd8500m.jpg

GM Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output: 1200 watts x 1 chan.
MOSFET power supply
Wired remote bass level control included
Variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 50 Hz)
Balanced isolator input circuit
Speaker-level inputs with included high-level to RCA adapter
Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink
Chrome-plated RCA level inputs
Chrome-plated screw terminals
Variable low-pass filter (40-240 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Frequency response: 10-240 Hz
Dimensions: 11-3/8"L x 7-7/8"W x 2-1/4"H

I appreciate every single input... thanks :thumbsup:

Palmer812

09-23-2010, 05:22 PM

That amp needs to be at 2ohm for 600 watts so the ideal solution would be a sub with either a single 2 ohm voice coil or dual 4 ohm voice coils. Either way would give you 2 ohms. You could also run it at 4 ohm but you will only get 1/2 the power you get at 2 ohms. If you wanted to use your Kicker subs you can hook 2 of them up and get 300 watts (150 each) or hook all 3 up and get roughly 500 watts (166 watts each roughly).

derickveliz2

09-23-2010, 05:49 PM

That amp needs to be at 2ohm for 600 watts so the ideal solution would be a sub with either a single 2 ohm voice coil or dual 4 ohm voice coils. Either way would give you 2 ohms.

In other words, this would be the perfect woofer ...

12" Dual 4 ohm Type R Subwoofer
Power Handling:
Peak: 1800 watts
RMS: 600 watts

LINK (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24187_Alpine+SWR-1243D.html)
http://i.seimg.net/images/417657/main/swr1243d.jpg

Herbicidal

09-23-2010, 06:22 PM

I've got the 10" version of that puppy (thanks to Alien Mantis's suggestion on my build thread) and I'm VERY happy with it!

Palmer812

09-23-2010, 07:27 PM

That would be a great choice. Do you have any local shops that sell Alpine? I would match that price all day long and if you blew it up you could exchange it over the counter.

derickveliz2

09-24-2010, 01:04 AM

That would be a great choice. Do you have any local shops that sell Alpine? I would match that price all day long and if you blew it up you could exchange it over the counter.

So I'm playing with the right numbers? that is a Dual 4 ohm 600 watts RMS.

Is this what we/them call to Match your amp with the subwoofer?

Thanks
Derick
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yarisito/th_c476b504.jpg?t=1285300272

derickveliz2

09-24-2010, 01:05 AM

I've got the 10" version of that puppy (thanks to Alien Mantis's suggestion on my build thread) and I'm VERY happy with it!

Thanks Herb, yes I do remember your set up, I was hoping to get a feed back from you too!

Derick
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yarisito/th_c476b504.jpg?t=1285300272

Alien Mantis

09-24-2010, 04:44 AM

derickveliz2

09-24-2010, 11:31 AM

You know I like those Alpine Type-R subs. Best sub you can get for the money.

Get one, and you too will be a fan.

:smoking:

I would run it in a ported box for max output.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19279_Sonic+Sub+Box-+1SV12+-Black+Carpet-.html

I found an audio shop not too far away from me that sells Alpine woofers, lets see what they say?

Would a sealed box work better towards SQ? (also smaller & lighter, though)

Thanks
Derick
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yarisito/th_c476b504.jpg?t=1285338451

Palmer812

09-24-2010, 08:34 PM

Yes a sealed box would be smaller and lighter. If you are going to buy a pre-fab box I would go sealed. You have more room for error on a sealed box. A ported box can be great for sq but you have to build it right. The port needs to be a specific length and size. Pre-fab ported boxes will not be tuned right for your sub unless you can find one made especially for that sub. If you are going to build your own I would consider ported. That ported box from Sonic is only $35 but I typed in my zip code and shipping was $35 also. We sell boxes just like that for $59 at full retail.

Alien Mantis

09-24-2010, 09:24 PM

Palmer is correct.

Funny thing though...
When I got my 10" Alpine Type-R sub, I checked those prefab ported boxes Sonic sells, and they were right on the numbers.
Port size and length, and overall volume was exactly what Alpine recommended in their spec sheet.
So I took a chance and ordered a box.
When I ordered mine, it was $30 with FREE shipping to my address.
That was for the single 10" ported box, not the 12" one.

I see they were out-of-stock on the 12" ported box when I checked the other day. I know those things are popular.
And I'll bet if you checked the specs, it would be very close to what that sub likes.

If the price is the same, you might as well have Palmer hook you up with the box.

A sealed box is better for pure SQ, but the correct ported box will be accurate too, and louder.
Since you are running mid-bass drivers, you can totally afford to run your 12" sub in a ported box.
Another benefit of a ported box is, you don't need as much AMP to push it hard.

The only way for you to be 100% sure is to listen to BOTH setups, and then decide what you like best.
This is where a local audio shop is nice.
They will let you test out different sub/box setups to see which one you like best, and which setup responds best to your amp.
You get to TRY before you BUY.

You don't get that from SonicElectronix.
You basically have to LOOK at stuff, study the specs, read the user reviews, and then make an educated GUESS.
Sometimes you get lucky. Sometimes you need to send stuff back and try again.
You can CALL Sonic and talk to their people, and they will do their best to steer you in the right direction, if you need some professional advice.
They know what works, and what doesn't.

Every customer is different.
Some people are picky, some people are happy with low-end stuff.
It all depends on the needs of the customer.

sqcomp

09-25-2010, 01:44 AM

Responding to AM's thoughts on the different enclosures...

He's absolutely right. You can absolutely get good sound out of both. I should PROBABLY be using a vented enclosure on my sub with the amount of power I have. Instead I'm keeping it sealed. Hell, I'm even looking at an 18" woofer. Maybe around Christmas I might do another enclosure...

Alien Mantis

09-26-2010, 07:07 PM

I knew an audiophile guy who was a recording engineer.

He always said, "there is life below 40hz"

( maybe for HIM )

:biggrin:

sqcomp

09-26-2010, 09:49 PM

Oh hell, I cross my mid bass at 40 Hz...I can definitely say that there is life below 40Hz

derickveliz2

09-27-2010, 01:21 AM

Thanks everybody, lets see what happens at the shop, they call me and I'm going to stop by this week.

derickveliz2

09-27-2010, 01:36 AM

Oh hell, I cross my mid bass at 40 Hz...I can definitely say that there is life below 40Hz

Me too! but at 63 Hz... I know your L8s must sound amazing I only have cheap 6.5 drivers even though the midbass is great (I never realized about it, but I've been missing this frequency in my old installs that all songs sound so different now)

and WOW! I've been learning so much about mid bass that I understand now when you say that it's so important for a good sound system.

with some songs I mute the subwoofer and I can't tell the difference, then I mute the midbass and turn on the sub again and sounds like crap! the mid bass does all the job!

last but most important... Sqcomp! I'm going to give up! you are absolutely right, go with kick panels on the floor for midbass drivers, my doors are driving me crazy, I tend to rest my left arm and knee on the door panel and buzzes so much (no rattles, just vibrations) so I'm going to make some small kickpanels.

I got some used 6.5 drivers (not high end, I can't remember the brand and specs) but hopefully one day I'm going to be able to afford HAT L6's ( I think they go for $500-$600) for now I'm going to experiment with these little 6.5 woofers in kickpanels.

Man! this is like "THE NEVER ENDING STORRY" just like you thinking about an 18 in sub for Christmas.!

Thanks again guys! all your input helps me gain knowledge and correct my mistakes I hope helps others to understand how everything works.

Alien Mantis

09-27-2010, 02:47 AM

Yeah, this is turning into a soap opera.

Or worse.... a reality TV show without the TV!

:eek:

sqcomp

09-27-2010, 09:31 AM

Absolutely experiment. I did a bit of planning when it came to door panels versus kicks. What you trade is space versus performance. I'd rather have performance.

I've taken apart the door panels multiple times. With some work you can quiet them down.

You're tending to lean on the silver door control panel/insert piece or the top of the door sill aren't you?

derickveliz2

09-27-2010, 02:22 PM

I've taken apart the door panels multiple times. With some work you can quiet them down.

You're tending to lean on the silver door control panel/insert piece or the top of the door sill aren't you?

YES! And the vibrations after a while are terrible very itchy. No noise at all or Rattles it just vibrates! I guess having the speaker attached to the door just makes a bad speaker box.

sqcomp

09-28-2010, 03:59 AM

derickveliz2

09-29-2010, 11:00 AM

Have you taken the control insert apart yet? You can put sound deadening on the edges of the panel to reduce the vibration.

I'd send you mine if you want. I have no problem re doing the inserts...although you'd be out your window controls until I got you mine.

Thanks man! don't worry I'm going to try and do some kickpanels. And I have a couple of questions:

Did you relocate the wires down there and extending a ground wire (both sides)?

How did you attached the speaker box (kick panel) in place? did you drilled into the fender and hold them mechanically?

Thanks
Derick

sqcomp

09-29-2010, 01:24 PM

Yeah....

That is where I went a little above and beyond the normal backyard install. There are indeed two wire junctions in the kicks. I completely relocated them up into the dash since there is PLENTY of room. On the driver's side there is a ground...I just replaced the ground with an 8 gauge one and bolted it into the chassis behind my mid bass pod. My pods are attached on both sides to the chassis with with OEM bolts (in OEM mounting points).

You, however, can work around the wire cluster. Your mids are smaller than mine are...

I can also send you a neat little link to show you how to do some kicks cleanly if you'd like.

derickveliz2

09-29-2010, 02:27 PM

derickveliz2

10-01-2010, 02:59 AM

Ok, I made two 12 inch wire extensions for ground and relocated the wires where the kick panels will go.

sqcomp... did you removed the foam pads under the carpet? I only took the driver's side out, the one where you rest your left foot.

How complicated would be ordering 6.5" diameter - 3/4" MDF rings from your bodies over there, I still have to check if they make them local over here.

I'm sure I won't accomplish 0.25 cubic feet internal volume that the speakers require in a sealed box, so if I use Poly-fill would this help?

I'm still a little concern on how I'm going to hold the kick panels in place?

Thanks Derick

sqcomp

10-01-2010, 12:09 PM

Derick,

I took out all my foam on the floor. I'm still figuring out what I need to do with that. .25 of a cube isn't much my friend. You can easily make that happen.

What was the midbass you were using again? If it's something the shop stocks, we can produce a pair of flushed rings for you.

Thoughts?

derickveliz2

10-01-2010, 02:13 PM

Derick, What was the midbass you were using again? If it's something the shop stocks, we can produce a pair of flushed rings for you.
Thoughts?

Thanks, here are the specs for "SB Acoustics SB17NRXC35-4"

LINK (https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=8614)

Dimensions:
Flange diameter: 171mm
Cut out diameter: 144mm
Depth: 75mm
Flange thickness: 6.5mm
Screw mounting diameter: 159mm
Screw hole size: 4.3mm

https://www.madisound.com/store/images/SB17NRX35.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/HU%20Stereo%20System/87be6d22.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc240/Velozity_photos/IMG_0996.jpg

I'm realizing how important is to have a good Mid-Bass up front for 40 Hz to 3.5 Hz Band, so I really want to try these with kick panels.

Thanks!

.:thumbsup:

sqcomp

10-01-2010, 07:27 PM

Wow...I was thinking that your mid bass would be just for mid bass. I thought you had the Hertz/Audison midrange-thingy going on.

You let me know if you want a pair of rings for those mids...

derickveliz2

10-01-2010, 11:58 PM

Wow...I was thinking that your mid bass would be just for mid bass. I thought you had the Hertz/Audison midrange-thingy going on.

You let me know if you want a pair of rings for those mids...

:drool: Hertz are going in the A-Pillars! as Midrange together with tweeters for Highs. I want 6.5 woofers for Lows (mid bass) down in the Kickpanels instead of having them in the doors.

Don't forget the LINK about building Kickpanels! :thumbsup:

Yes I'm interested in the rings for the mid bass 6.5!

Thanks :thumbup:

sqcomp

10-02-2010, 12:14 AM

I just showed Jim the midbass driver there...

Here's the link:

http://caraudiomag.com/articles/how-make-two-layer-kickpanels?utm_source=newsletter100923&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=how-make-two-layer-kickpanels

Call Jim on Monday about those rings. I know he's stupid busy with an M4 install, so you'll have to talk to him...lest he forget. You still have the number?

derickveliz2

10-03-2010, 01:24 AM

derickveliz2

10-03-2010, 01:35 AM

I took all the family for a drive!

My lovely wife thought the "new Yaris felt like a very solid car, big and quiet" she liked the fact that at even highway speeds we could keep a conversation without rising our voice. She also mention that it was a weird feeling but very comfortable.

My almost 4 years old son "Papi turn on the radio I want Boom Boom Boom"

My 3 month baby girl ... well she fall asleep! (o:

Something I noticed is the fact that we had the music on at a low volume and we could talk to each other, before it was the music or us but not both!

Just wanted to share this, it's very satisfying for me and my LONGGGGG upgrade!

derickveliz2

10-04-2010, 02:10 AM

This is the piece of foam I'm taking out, foot rest area for pilot. I'm not going to take the foam on the passenger's side.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/f60e009a.jpg

derickveliz2

10-04-2010, 02:20 AM

Little by little...
Here is where I'm starting the kickpanels and how to hold them in place. 3/4" MDF cut in to shape where an OEM bolt used to hold a ground cable (relocated). In one of the pictures you can see the OEM bold and the new long bolt.

Next step would be to prepare the surface and place Fleece under the MDF then cover it with resin. But fist I'm going to do the Pilot's side (MDF piece) I feel that if I do one side first I'm not going to finish the other side any soon. Also to work with the Resin all at once. (this is my first build up so, I'm prepare for failure). any tips or tricks are welcome.

Here are the pictures (Premier 6.5 component speaker shown just for reference)...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/43b7e230.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/1085c326.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/f623d4fb.jpg

D.

sqcomp

10-04-2010, 01:05 PM

That area looks VERY familiar! Derick, I wouldn't put fleece down first. Tape the area off then lay down hand torn strips of glass matt. Resin those and then add thickness with several more layers of matting. When you've reached the desired thickness, remove and trim the edges. Fleece doesn't conform as well as glass mat. I'd use the fleece on the front baffle over the trim ring.

derickveliz2

10-04-2010, 04:39 PM

I wouldn't put fleece down first. Tape the area off then lay down hand torn strips of glass matt. Resin those and then add thickness with several more layers of matting. When you've reached the desired thickness, remove and trim the edges. Fleece doesn't conform as well as glass mat. I'd use the fleece on the front baffle over the trim ring.

Thanks, I think you are right! I got confused in the LINK (http://caraudiomag.com/articles/how-make-two-layer-kickpanels?utm_source=newsletter100923&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=how-make-two-layer-kickpanels) maybe it's just another way of doing it.

D.

derickveliz2

10-06-2010, 02:12 AM

Here is the base for the kickpanel on the Pilot's side!

I desided to remove some CCFoam and leave a layer of MLV behind the Kickpanels; gain some volume but keep the road noise out. mmm I should order a little big more of MLV

Tomorrow I'm picking up my midbass speakers!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/51ef2cbe.jpg

.:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-06-2010, 02:21 AM

sqcomp

10-06-2010, 03:27 AM

WTF are those? Are they suggesting that you use 6x9 speakers for your kicks?

*sigh*

What do you think? What other options was the local shop suggesting?

derickveliz2

10-06-2010, 03:52 AM

WTF are those? Are they suggesting that you use 6x9 speakers for your kicks?

*sigh*

What do you think? What other options was the local shop suggesting?

This one... *I think they just want to sell me something* even I told them my budget they insist on going high!

http://www.woofersetc.com/images/products/2199.jpg

Alien Mantis

10-06-2010, 03:57 AM

See.... this is why I don't like most car audio shops.
They do indeed just want to SELL you "something".

( and the more expensive... the better for THEM )

I don't like 6x9's for subs. They are good for mid-bass though.

Order two Alpine Type-R 10" from SonicElectronix.com and be done with it.

:biggrin:

( get the DUAL 2ohm models, so you can wire them both up for a 2ohm load )

Voice coils in series for 4ohms each, subs wired in parallel for 2ohm total load.

Alien Mantis

10-06-2010, 04:02 AM

Here's the BOX you want for those two Type-R's :

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7508_Sonic+Sub+Box-+2SV10+-Gray-.html

:thumbsup:

Herbicidal

10-06-2010, 11:40 AM

Order two Alpine Type-R 10" from SonicElectronix.com and be done with it.

AMEN!!! Even though I just have one. :tongue:

sqcomp

10-06-2010, 12:22 PM

...Or we can get you into a sub that has a better tonal accuracy and into an enclosure that allows a woofer to actually sound good versus a pre fab box that isn't specifically made for the woofer.

Think about it Derick, you're being told to slap two cheap woofers into a monstrous prefabbed vented box that will take up your trunk. You've put a ton of time into the car already. You want to cut it short now?

There are better MTX options out there for you. That is an old model from what I'm seeing. Also, if you're thinking of mid bass AND affordability, I seem to remember Powerbass having a mid driver for you.

...and of course they were impressed with the P-99. They saw that and they though that you were holding out for the best price. Think about it. They see a $1300 deck and then they hear that you want to go inexpensive on speakers? AM is right with the insinuation that the dot.com sites don't give a $hit about what you have going on. They'll sell you whatever, they couldn't care less about you or your setup. They just want your money.

derickveliz2

10-06-2010, 01:48 PM

Thanks guys,
Lots of information here, I need to digest all this and learn more. Jim (sqcomp's friend) tells me that for SQ it's better a Class A-B instead of a Class D.

Since I'm going to have to get 2 new amps and eventually a new sub, I need some time and dig more about it. So I think I'm going to start with a 4 channel amp (maybe a class A-B) :iono: Then an amp for the sub + sub

I rather go SQ than SPL for sure.

any thoughts?

For now going back to the kickpanels!:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-06-2010, 02:22 PM

I really like the Boston Acoustics SPG555-4 (not really a 6x9), it's very light goes into a 1 cu feet sealed box but at a price tag.

LINK for info (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15774_Boston+Acoustics+SPG555-4.html)

http://i.seimg.net/images/203236/main/spg5554.jpg

sqcomp

10-06-2010, 04:17 PM

AKK! Those spg bostons are $350?!? Seriously? Those things are NOT what you want. Let me get this straight, are those what you're considering for a sub?

IDq 10" or 12" in less than a cube. You want compact? You want output? You want SQ? It's better than the SPL pig type R and either will play in less than a cube. I'm doing the IDMAX because I want only one sub and and I have the power to support it. Derick, you can get an IDq with a REAL warranty for $240 landed at your doorstep.

That enclosure for the type R is from Xscorpion. It's cheap quality MDF to say the least made overseas with 5/8" MDF. You think I'm lying...

sickpuppy1

10-06-2010, 05:06 PM

That link is to a BA 13" Sub with same look to it. So SQ, he want looking to spend 350.00 for a pair of 6x9's. That being said, I'm still not sure that you arent paying for the name... And even then I dont think BA is the shiznit in home audio either so.....

Alien Mantis

10-06-2010, 06:36 PM

AMEN!!! Even though I just have one. :tongue:

Hey, me too!

ONE is plenty for my needs.
If I had TWO, the bass would totally overpower the mix.

If I wanted to upgrade anything on my system, my NEXT step would be to pull all my interior panels and DYNAMAT everything.

"Sound deadening" would be my next step.
If I wanted to take it to the next level.

The Yaris HB is small, and I really didn't want BOX taking up all my cargo space. So one 10" Type-R is plenty.

As it is... my bass already overpowers my mix, but I like strong bass.
I just don't need bass that you can hear coming a block away.
That is what I call "ghetto bass".

:biggrin:

Alien Mantis

10-06-2010, 06:56 PM

Sqcomp.... don't be a hater!

You are really ragging on the Type-R and Sonicelectronix!

The Type-R is an SPL pig ??? Hey, just because it puts out tons of bass doesn't mean you gotta call it a pig!
:frown:

Those NEW Type-R's are SWEET!
And you know as well as I do, the 10" Type-R's can play tight and accurate too!
The reason I keep recommending them, is because they are high quality, and you just can't beat the price on them.
$125 ea from Sonic. You can't buy a better sub for that price.

Derick was looking at the BA oval sub for $350 each ?!?!?
What a RIPOFF.
Those new Alpine Type-R's would eat that BA for lunch and we both know it!
Derick can buy TWO Type-R's for LESS than one of those BA ovals.

Just because he has a $1,300 deck, doesn't mean he needs to spend another grand on his subs!
That car audio shop took one look at that deck, and they got dollar-signs in their eyes. They said, "we got us a big fish on the line here!"

I'm trying to save Derick some money, and get him what he would be happy with.

As far as the box goes, Derick could go with a 2.0cf SEALED box for those Type-R's, and get killer tight bass response.
( with a 1,000-1,200watt RMS amp pushing them )

You don't need 3/4" MDF for a vented box.
We all know a vented box has less pressure on it, compared to a sealed box.
A sealed box needs to be thick and sturdy, to resist cabinet flex at high SPL.

That prefab vented box I recommended would be just fine.
He would trade a little SQ for a little more SPL, but he might LIKE it.
If he would rather trade some SPL for a little more SQ, he can choose a sealed box instead.
The point is, you can get a decent box for $80, and pay $125 each for a pair of subs, and have great bass.
Or you can spend a lot more money, and have great bass.
If the object is to spend more money... well... that's EASY.

Totally nothing wrong with getting an IDMAX sub or two, and having a shop custom build you a thick heavy box for a couple hundred bucks.
That works too. If that's what you want to do, hook it up!

Derick has many choices to think about. Many directions he could go.

I am sure we are all curious what he will end up going with.

And who knows, maybe he will try some stuff, and decide he wants something different. Then he might try other things.

Like YOU SqComp.... you keep trying different stuff to find that perfect combination you are looking for. You plan to compete with your system.
So you need to think along those lines.

The rest of us just want decent tunes in our ride!
And most of us don't want to spend thousands of dollars to make it happen.

:biggrin:

( so stop hating on us "budget builders" ! )

Alien Mantis

10-06-2010, 07:10 PM

And let me say ONE MORE THING:

Sonicelectronix may be an online discount retailer, but they also have a STORE you can go to, if you happen to live near them.
They just do internet stuff, because they want to do more "volume" than a local "mom-n-pop shop", so they can get better deals from the manufacturers and distributors.
( so they can pass the savings on to US, the customers! )

They also have a reputation to keep up, just like any store or shop does.
If they screw people over, word on the internet will go viral, and people will avoid their business. They don't want that, so they do their best to take care of their customers.
Sonic also warranties stuff in-house. If you have a problem with something, they will warranty it for you. I don't care if Alpine, Sonic, or mom and pop takes care of me. I just want SOMEONE to take care of me if I have a problem. A "factory" warranty doesn't mean anything to me. If Sonic will replace my bad item for me, that's all I need.

I only recommend Sonicelectronix because I have done business with them, and they have treated me right everytime.
They have a nice website to order from, FAST shipping ( FREE on most items ), best prices on most stuff, and good customer service. ( I had to send an item back one time, and they gave me no hassle at all )

SqComp, I realize you like your local shop, and they help you with your pro setup and install, and you guys are probably all buddies, and all of that is really GREAT... but not everyone has that resource available to them.

Derick went to a local shop near him, and apparently, they tried to hose him.

So maybe he can keep his options open, and try a different approach.
Me and Herbicidal are happy. Maybe Derick would be happy too.

So DERICK.... make your CHOICE!
And whatever you choose to do, hopefully you will be happy and satisfied!
That is the name of the game!

:thumbsup:

Herbicidal

10-06-2010, 07:24 PM

Well stated A.M! :thumbsup: On the reverse, I won't hate the SQ guys either!!! :laugh: I'll just :drool: instead.

BTW, I took my 9 year old son out to Petsmart last night and a song came on the radio he liked so I turned it up a bit. He said "Dad! The music is surrounding me!" That comment made every last minute I've spent on the sound deadening, amp installs, speaker upgrades, cussing, swearing, etc, etc. and the $$$'s spent on my system totally worth it! :smile:

Palmer812

10-06-2010, 09:40 PM

FYI...
The local car-audio shop doesn't looks like he is going to price match the alpine subwoofers or the pioneer amps, instead he offered more options and more expensive. By the way he was very impressed with the P-99

This is what the local shop suggested: :iono:

http://i.seimg.net/images/203236/main/spg5554.jpg

I also consulted a very knowledgeable person, I think they call him BASS-HEAD and he is going to suggest me other options.

.:thumbsup:

Idiots. Shops like that make us all look bad. I wish you guys lived near me. I would match anything you can find on the web no problem. I would rather sell you something at a discount and make a little money than have you walk and buy online. That equals $0 in my pocket. I like to sell high end stuff but nowadays money is tight. We sell the crap out of entry level gear and some of it sounds pretty good for the money.

sqcomp

10-07-2010, 01:02 AM

Having a side by side, with the type R and an IDQ...I know the winner. The Type R IS a pig. I'm MORE than happy to do a side by side challenge. If one thinks that is a good sounding sub, go with that. Have fun living in bliss. Now, I do also know that there was a crappy prefabbed box up there. It WILL sound bad. Oh, it will put out sound pressure. Yes, putting that Type R in a sealed will tighten it up more. I still stand by my statement that the IDQ sounds better. It also matches Derick's needs a bit better. It matches his available power and it's more sensitive than the Type R. They both go in the same sized enclosure (the 10"s and 12"s)...The IDQ 12 is even better. Same sized enclosure as the 10, same power, even better sensitivity (again) than the Type R 12.

I wouldn't be suprised to see a few more dB out of the IDQ on the same power in the same sealed enclosure than the Type R as well as better accuracy.

Bargain hunt. Make it happen. I see it all the time. It is certainly a travesty that Derick doesn't have a good shop near him. You're right, in house warranty is what they offer on the nice name brand equipment. If that's good enough for you not to recieve factory backed products (much like buying a new car without a factory warranty), cool. You don't know where he gets his stuff from...you don't care either as long as it works. Fair enough. I just want to know I'm not getting a hot or a fake item. I'll pay more for that satisfaction of knowing.

It does show, however, that one shop DOES care about him. Too bad it's on the other side of the country.

Alien Mantis

10-07-2010, 02:19 AM

SqComp:

I never said the Type-R is better than a IDQ. I am sure the IDQ is better.
I believe it is also a bit more expensive. So you pay more, to get a little more.
Nothing wrong with that.

I would recommend those Image Dynamics subs too.
I haven't had the chance to hear them, but they do look really nice, and they have great specs.

As far as I know, Sonicelectronix does NOT sell counterfeit gear.
All the stuff I ever ordered from them was all brand-new FACTORY stuff.

Your comparison between a $100 subwoofer, and a new CAR is a bit of a stretch!
:biggrin:
Apples and oranges, my friend.
BUT... since you mentioned it, I would totally buy a NEW car without ANY warranty, if I could get that sucker
for HALF price! Sign me up!

Palmer812:
I totally agree with everything you said.

derickveliz2

10-07-2010, 09:31 AM

Thanks guys, Great and super important information, different opinions and points of view helps me and I hope others as well.

Personally if I had the economical power to buy what I would like to it would be a Stage 4 from Pioneer (including the little Lexus), but that's not the case I'm still unemployed so I rather go slow and think twice every move. That is the VALUE of threads like this where I'm learning and gaining knowledge as we go.

I wish I had a local access to a good car-audio shop and friends like you to listen to their systems. I have been looking around but looks like everything happens on the other side of the country.

Any way I'm glad to be in this forum and hear from all of you!

I have a plan:

- 4 channel Class AB amp to replace my old Premier 4 channel.
- Keep working on kickpanels and A-pillars for Mid-bass down on the floor and Mid-range + tweeters up high. (these will take me a lot of time, like every thing else jeje :laugh: )
- I'm going to be saving for another amp + subwoofer in the near future.

I know of a friend who has a very expensive woofer and one day he tested a smaller cheaper woofer, he really like it to the point that he was thinking about replacing his fancy woofer; maybe that is the way to go.

For now looks like I like sound quality and not a loud system... so bear with me and lets keep sharing our thoughts to all our Yaris-World community!

YEAH!!!!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/4SALE/a6e75fe0.jpg

Thanks again...
Derick.:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-07-2010, 11:43 AM

BTW, I took my 9 year old son out to Petsmart last night and a song came on the radio he liked so I turned it up a bit. He said "Dad! The music is surrounding me!" That comment made every last minute I've spent on the sound deadening, amp installs, speaker upgrades, cussing, swearing, etc, etc. and the $$$'s spent on my system totally worth it! :smile:

I know what you mean! +2 :w00t:

D.

sqcomp

10-07-2010, 10:09 PM

Hey derick, eye candy for you...

http://pioneer.jp/carrozzeria/carrozzeria_x/

You think the stage 4 is the best Pioneer has? MWAHAHAHA! I'd go back to Iraq for a crack at this stuff...

derickveliz2

10-08-2010, 12:56 AM

Hey derick, eye candy for you...

http://pioneer.jp/carrozzeria/carrozzeria_x/

You think the stage 4 is the best Pioneer has? MWAHAHAHA! I'd go back to Iraq for a crack at this stuff...

Love it!

Still would look much better with a Lexus in the background! jeje

derickveliz2

10-08-2010, 01:16 AM

Today my friend Eric who plays in a band for the Air Force (he plays the Bass), took a close look at my car, even though I'm only running 6.5 midbass drivers in the doors and the Bachuka in the trunk (I bump up the 6.5 drivers from 53Hz to 12.5KHz so I can listen to some music)...

He could not tell about the Bachuka in the trunk! he thought all the BASS was coming from the little 6.5 drivers. He was amazed of the sound! by muting the subwoofer was the only way he could tell the deep lower frequencies are coming from some where else. I explain him about the Mids and Tweeter not there jet yet.

I did explain him about front stage and sq vrs SPL, I guess he would be a good judge when it comes to sound quality once I get my system going. I told him it will take me a few more months, but he is very interested to hear it once the install is complete.

He drives a very nice Volvo and he really liked the ride of my Yaris, "feels very solid and quite! much better than my car" he said!

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/SZJpKZGrb3I/AAAAAAAAOvU/HXPOr7kfVBQ/s720/DSC_0785.JPG

derickveliz2

10-08-2010, 01:21 AM

I posted this at DIYMA but nothing yet...

What's better for Front Stage regarding the location of the mids in the A-pillars:

to be as far apart from each other and a little closer to listeners? or

to be as far forward from listeners but a little closer together (distance between each speaker)?

sqcomp

10-08-2010, 02:46 AM

derickveliz2

10-08-2010, 03:12 AM

This is where your imaging and soundstage width and depth will come into play.

I highly suggest taking some time to play with the aiming of your mids. Different axis positions and angles relative to you.

I did play with them for a while, and I have a better idea how to aim them so they sound better for my taste (close to what Hertz recommends) aiming to opposite seat, like symmetrical, see image below) with the difference I'm going to install them on the A-pillars and not the doors

But for some reason a couple of inches further apart (in front the sail panels) creates a nice width (I am assuming this is how wide it feels, but far forward and a couple of inches closer was good too, better depth (I'm assuming deep and farther like standing in front but not too close) at a cost of less width, and since all this is new to me, I was wondering what was better? please tell me if I'm nuts or wrong, I'm just trying to decide where the 3" mids will go relative to the A-pillard.

I'm tending more to give a little bit of width by having the mids farther apart between them but not as far forward possible (closer to listeners) Then I'll let the tweeters be as far away to compensate depth. I'm sorry if I'm messing up what I'm trying to accomplish, or sounds confusing.
Million of thank you(s) for any input... BTW sqcomp remind Jim about my amp and rings please, I'll call him tomorrow.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/hertz_HiEnergy_adv_manual-6.jpg

derickveliz2

10-09-2010, 02:58 AM

I'm getting ready, I got some Fiber Glass Cloth, a couple of different weights and some carbon fiber strips to reinforce (maybe overkill but this is where my R/C airplane hobby experience comes to my mind) Resin, disposable gloves, masking tape, etc.

Since I don't have my rings for the kickpanels and the 6.5 drivers I'm going to start with the A-pillars for the 3" mids and Tweeters.

Wish me luck, I guess I'm going to do some mock-ups first and get a hang of it!

D.

sqcomp

10-09-2010, 08:38 PM

Be sure to look at how I did my pillars. Don't go in blind. I don't know if there are any other Yarii around besides yours and mine that have pillar mounted mids.

You can be assured of a high soundstage!

derickveliz2

10-10-2010, 03:01 AM

Be sure to look at how I did my pillars. Don't go in blind.

Count with that! over and over!

D.

derickveliz2

10-14-2010, 03:34 AM

The Saga continues!

2:30 am and I just got upstairs, 2 hours of work... what work??? Masking tape, cutting fiber glass cloth, carbon fiber tape and some liquid stuff. It's like playing in the sand!

I'll upload pictures later, this is for the left A-pillar mount/extension (First attempt)

D.:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-15-2010, 02:45 AM

Didn't work! :iono:

Complete FAILURE!!! :cry: :brokenheart:

http://www.worthview.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/failure1.gif

I'm embarrassed showing the pictures :frown:

But I will.... I feel good recognizing my mistakes... :smile:

derickveliz2

10-15-2010, 03:02 AM

Masking Tape...
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/da28f421.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/5e4c304e.jpg

My objective...
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/1f846db1.jpg

Materials...
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/4597ac12.jpg

Almost there...
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/6452b3e6.jpg

Final product...
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/781c908d.jpg

This is not going to work, going back to the Balls concept!

derickveliz2

10-15-2010, 03:06 AM

My new (used) Mid-Bass Driver [SB ACOUSTICS] next to the Pioneer 6.5 (for comparison) Hertz HL70 and Zeus Tweeters... These SB Acoustics are going in the Kick-panels that some day I will build... soon I hope! :thumbsup:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/2bccbc2b.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/de432a23.jpg

derickveliz2

10-15-2010, 03:10 AM

Balls Concept!

This is how I'm "Aiming" the speaker sphere for the 3" Mid-range driver Hertz HL-70

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/9809cf7a.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/4deb0511.jpg

Some trim and adjustments...
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/ee09c30f.jpg

DailyDriver

10-16-2010, 11:03 AM

love the pics Derick. you are a braver man than i. But your car will rock harder than mine will too :)

sqcomp

10-16-2010, 05:33 PM

derickveliz2

10-17-2010, 12:44 AM

love the pics Derick. you are a braver man than i. But your car will rock harder than mine will too :)

Thanks! DD where in Utah are you?

That's how I learn, the hard way but then I feel good. :thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-17-2010, 12:51 AM

Derick...you went about the pods the wrong way. You need a base on the pillar BEFORE you lay any glass down. You need the baffle for the mid and the tweeter.That's why I mentioned looking at my build closely.
I'm chiding you a little here...on purpose. Get a hold of me so we can set your starting point on the pillars correctly.

No kidding! :eek: Yes I know but I had this crazy idea to have the 3" driver in front of the sail panel but based/attached on the A-Pillar. That's a "no go"

Please describe to me "baffle"? :redface:

What are the new ideas for the Yaris now that you have been exposed to the 3x MECA master champ? I'm so curios!!! :clap:

derickveliz2

10-17-2010, 01:37 AM

BTW!
Finally I met another guy with big boom boom around here!:thumbsup:

This morning when me and my son went to the Post Office in my Corolla... I notice parked next to us a Land Rover with a big box inside with 2 subs... I saw the owner approaching and asked him... :cool:

"Are those two 12's in the back?" and he said "NO! there are two 15's" with a big smile :headbang: (in ported boxes, and 4 coaxial speakers 2 in the doors and 2 in the rear C-Pillars facing forward). I asked him how did they sound? :cool: he went inside the Land Rover and turn his radio on... Yeah Baby... :headbang: lot's of rattles and kind of loud. He showed me the amp, on the side wall and he claim to be very happy with this pair of subs. :eek: Then he invited me to go inside the car :cool: [as I was approaching the interior of the car the BASS started to fade away :iono: ] and shut the door, asked me to crank it up and I did... :laughabove:
Man I was sorry I wasn't driving my Yaris! :mad: He would have been going nuts :eek: listening to the Bachuka . I really wasn't impressed. Maybe he didn't even had them set up properly. I really would like to listen/feel other systems... learn and get to know how they sound. :thumbsup:

This was a great experience for me, as soon as we got back home I went in my car and crank it up! :bow: YES YES YES!!! my Bachuka and only with the Mid-Bass drivers in the doors sounds much better the the guy with the two 15's ... I get the feeling that I'm in the right path! :burnrubber:

sqcomp

10-17-2010, 03:17 AM

My ideas are about interior treatment and a modification of the mid bass amongst other things. The big thing is drawing off experience. I'm working with a loaded deck now. Give me a competition. I'm there with a vehicle that is winning material. Yes, I have confidence. I expect to make a big statement in IASCA SQc and SQi.

Now, for you...

Ask yourself, what are you going to attach the speakers to? Where is the baffle? Post a pic please (again, I'm giving you a hard time on purpose).

derickveliz2

10-17-2010, 09:58 AM

sqcomp

10-17-2010, 07:39 PM

Oh man...if I was right next to you right now...to the moon!

Here's what you need to do. Make a baffle for the tweeters and the mid to fit in to. Speaker rings. What you did was to make a back like you were doing a pod. That's the wrong thing to do in this case.

So, take a few minutes and make your baffles. Post a pic up when you're done and I'll guide you onto the next step.

You'll see about the interior treatments in a few weeks. It's one of the little things that's going to bring a 6.5' trophy into my possession. I sat in dave's car for the last two days listening. All I need to do is to tweak my mid bass a little and I'm ready for the next level. I can see the IASCA rookie SQI and SQc trophies in my hot little hands already.

DailyDriver

10-18-2010, 04:10 PM

i am about 45 min SW of salt lake city. Eagle Mountain City. I have about a 45 min commute to work and need to quiet my ride down. I started reading this and SQcomp's threads with that in mind. I have really enjoyed and appreciated the time you guys have taken to not only do the work, but post pics and descriptions for guys like me. (uh oh, its getting sappy...(yawn!)) And all the others that know their stuff and have made comments too. I have learned a ton. One of these days i will get my car done (sound deadening and system upgrade). Seems like i never have time. Just when i start thinking that though, you will post that you were up till 2 or 3 am. I definitely have that time available. hmmm. One of these days i will shut up and start working... till then, i will keep reading. (grin)

thanks for asking Derick.

derickveliz2

10-19-2010, 03:32 AM

)O:

Man... my basement was full of water this morning :mad:, this is not good :brokenheart:

D.

sqcomp

10-19-2010, 10:11 PM

Seeping through the walls?

derickveliz2

10-20-2010, 12:43 AM

Seeping through the walls?

No, the sewer ejector had a clog!:frown: :cry: it cost me couple of subwoofers though :mad: and lots of boxes got all wet with papers and who knows what others things went bad, my garage is a mess my Yaris is parked out side. :brokenheart:

D.

derickveliz2

10-20-2010, 12:52 AM

i am about 45 min SW of salt lake city. Eagle Mountain City. I have about a 45 min commute to work and need to quiet my ride down. thanks for asking Derick.

We went to SLC in 2006 for a photo shoot, weather was beautiful indeed. My wife also has some relatives down there, I wish I could go back there again.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Fotos%20Aereas/1ca21120.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Fotos%20Aereas/1DSC09266.jpg

derickveliz2

10-20-2010, 01:08 AM

Ok, it's midnight and everybody is sleeping now
I'm going back to the garage and clean up my mess.... :mad:

sqcomp

10-20-2010, 01:55 AM

Sewer ejector? Jeezus man! Stop taking such large craps! You're plugging up the drain!

Alien Mantis

10-20-2010, 04:49 AM

Sewer ejector? Jeezus man! Stop taking such large craps! You're plugging up the drain!

YEAH!

Best comment I seen on here in a long time!

:bellyroll:

( I was thinking the SAME THING )

:biggrin:

Alien Mantis

10-20-2010, 04:54 AM

We went to SLC in 2006 for a photo shoot

Nice photos!

I do photography myself.
If you wanna see some of my work, here is a link to my gallery:

http://www.pbase.com/digitalitewerx/root

You might see something interesting.
:biggrin:

derickveliz2

10-21-2010, 02:05 AM

Nice photos!

I do photography myself.
If you wanna see some of my work, here is a link to my gallery:

http://www.pbase.com/digitalitewerx/root

You might see something interesting.
:biggrin:

:coolpics:AWESOME! photography AM I enjoyed every single photo!

and I do like "airplanes" what do you think about this little ones!!! LINK (http://www.tabblo.com/studio/stories/view/1580050/)
:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-21-2010, 02:55 AM

derickveliz2

10-21-2010, 02:57 AM

Just to relax I washed my car, but I wanted to show you how the panels sound so different when they are deadened, I recorded this because I'm about to treat the front fender panels and hood.

VIDEO LINK (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vss0mIgZJ4Y)

Alien Mantis

10-21-2010, 04:20 AM

:coolpics:AWESOME! photography AM I enjoyed every single photo!

Thanks.

I like your gallery from the model airplane event.
Those little R/C jets are cool. I used to fly R/C planes years ago, but I never made a ducted fan / jet.

I also like your demo video to show the sound deadened door panel.
Clever to use the garden hose! You can really hear a difference.

Good job.

derickveliz2

10-22-2010, 02:46 AM

OK,
I got my self some Resin and did some testing on the foam balls, one did kind of melt a little bit, we'll see how they look tomorrow.

This stuff smells funny! :biggrin:

sqcomp

10-22-2010, 06:54 PM

the heat and chemicals will melt the foam. That's why you use something that won't be affected by chemicals and heat as much.

derickveliz2

10-24-2010, 02:11 AM

the heat and chemicals will melt the foam. That's why you use something that won't be affected by chemicals and heat as much.

Got it! the hard way jeje :thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-24-2010, 02:30 AM

So I end up using some water-based Polycrylic on the foam balls to prevent melting...:thumbsup:

I did work once with resin and fiberglass about 20 years ago, I remember the smell (it was a little patch for a small speaker box I made).

I cut the fiberglass in 1" stripes, I mixed 2oz of resin with 20 drops of ???? I don't know what is the proper name in Spanish is "catalytic"? I'll read the bottle tomorrow and edit this post. Yeah it's MEKP!

The mix proportions was less than the instructions 1oz = 10 drops Instructions require 1oz=12 drops. I did this just to aloud me more time, they way I look at it is more drops... less time to work!

I applied a little bit of resin and a stripe of fiberglass at a time, until the ball was all covered, tomorrow I'll try to do the second one (green ball) then I'll start sanding and applying some bondo and then sand again. We'll see how it goes! :thumbup:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/41e3bc85.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/64371b58.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/b9686065.jpg

D.:smile:

sqcomp

10-24-2010, 02:43 AM

build up the enclosure before adding bondo. Also remember, if you mix the resin too hot, it will become brittle.

derickveliz2

10-25-2010, 10:17 AM

build up the enclosure before adding bondo. Also remember, if you mix the resin too hot, it will become brittle.

Yes for sure! and that's a good tip for the MEKP describes me how it works.

Thanks :thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-26-2010, 04:37 PM

Did the green ball!!! :thumbup:

Much better than the first one, makes me think about doing a third ball, maybe after a dozen I'll get them pretty good! I'll post pictures later!

D. :thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-26-2010, 04:42 PM

OK guys, I'm finally getting a replacement for the Bachuka! it will be an Image Dynamics IDQ12 V3.D4

Now it's time to think about what kind of box! Sealed? Ported? Bandpass Box? even Free Air, this sub is so flexible!

Thanks to everybody help me narrow down my needs! many thanks to sqcomp, Palmer and others for your offerings and help, I appreciate it a lot "I'm very thankful" .

http://www.woofersetc.com/images/products/IDQ10V3.D2-new.jpg

LINK (http://www.woofersetc.com/p6225/IDQ12V3D4--Image-Dynamics-12%22-IDQ-Version-3-Dual-4-Ohm-Subwoofer.htm)

D.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-26-2010, 04:53 PM

Also for my Amp needs... I'm getting a PowerBass ASA1100.5x (5-Channel Class A/B Amplifier)

75 watts x 4 +250 x 1 LINK (http://www.powerbassusa.com/asa-11005x-5-ch-amplifier)

http://www.powerbassusa.com/sites/powerbassusa.com/files/imagecache/Products_Photo/products/main/asa_1100_5x.jpg

This leaves me with 2 amps to choose from to help either the tweeters or Midbass
100 watts x 2 (old Pioneer amp that I'm using for the Bachuka now and could use it for the Midbass drivers?) or
60 watts x 2 new class A/B Pioneer amp (this could power the tweeters)

We'll see how it goes...

D.:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 01:06 AM

Here is the other ball after applying fiber glass.
Now lets get the foam out and reinforce the MDF ring to the fiber glass sphere. I'm starting to like the funny smell! :eek:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/bb4db0e7.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/d3fbfeae.jpg

And todays photo!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yarisito/b202dd59.jpg

D.

sqcomp

10-27-2010, 01:27 AM

Apparently you called the shop two minutes before I walked in this morning. Good choice on the sub and amp, you'll like them.

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 02:22 AM

Good choice on the sub and amp, you'll like them.

Thanks!
I'm very positive! I've been digging around and learning everyday, the sub and the amp will work great with my system, without breaking the bank.

D.:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 02:29 AM

.:eek:

A little bit of ACETONE to melt the foam, it was actually a sad moment...:brokenheart:

After 5 or 10 minutes with the Dremel and a little sanding I did a test fit! Yeah!!! Can I use 5 minutes Epoxy to reinforce the spheres to the MDF ring? would the BONDO work ok over the Epoxy?

After some structural reinforcements to the spheres I should start looking for a mechanical system to attach the spheres to the A-Pillars :cool:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/affb2150.jpg

D. :clap:

packetrace

10-27-2010, 12:40 PM

I have a couple of noob question for you guys....it would be really helpful for me....i'm going to start my audio system upgrade soon and i'll do a little bit of deadending in the trunk and on the floor....welll i will put two 12''subwoofer and i want to replace and amplify my two 6.5 and my two 6x9 and add little tweeter at the front in the a-pillar...

well what kind of amp do i need for the low(tweeter), the mid(6.5) and the high (6x9) ?

For the sub...Ported or not ?

For the deadending...only CLD tiles will make a difference in the trunk and on the floor even if i do not put MLV ?

Do i really need a audiocontrol like you are adding ?

Do i really need to change the battery ? or the big three will be enough ?

thanks to you and i'm sorry to disturb the tread but it's one of the most complete thread i found

thanks again!!!

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 01:15 PM

I have a couple of noob question for you guys....it would be really helpful for me....i'm going to start my audio system upgrade soon and i'll do a little bit of deadending in the trunk and on the floor....welll i will put two 12''subwoofer and i want to replace and amplify my two 6.5 and my two 6x9 and add little tweeter at the front in the a-pillar...
thanks again!!!

Bold are mine!
well what kind of amp do i need for the low(tweeter), the mid(6.5) and the high (6x9) ? That depends on how much you want to spend $$$

For the sub...Ported or not ? Ported = bigger box!

For the deadending...only CLD tiles will make a difference in the trunk and on the floor even if i do not put MLV ? CLD tiles + CCFoam + MLV it's a system, you will feel a big difference only if you use all three of them.

Do i really need a audiocontrol like you are adding ? What is your goal and budget?

Do i really need to change the battery ? or the big three will be enough ? Depending on your equipment, so far mine is fine with the Big 3 only

thanks to you and i'm sorry to disturb the tread but it's one of the most complete thread i found Thank you and you are welcome

packetrace

10-27-2010, 01:27 PM

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 02:04 PM

I have maybe around 1000-1200$ for the audio system....but I already have my heat unit and my big three
My goal is to get a loud sytem with a lot of bass
I don't care of space I use in my trunk ...i'm a student so....i dont have a family....so ported or not ? for the best sub sound !
I would like to have a kind of 2500W peak of sub and have better sound by amplifying my tweeter, mid and high
so..
Audio control or 2 amps will do the job ?
Ported or not ?
Deadending question...thanks you so much
Battery...i'll change it if i see i have problem with power!
I like fast answer like you did Thank You

BOLD CAPS ARE MINE!

I have maybe around 1000-1200$ for the audio system....but I already have my heat unit and my big three TELLS US ABOUT YOUR HU

My goal is to get a loud sytem with a lot of bass EVEN MY 10" BAZOOKA DELIVERS GREAT BASS, TWO 12'S WILL WORK GREAT TOO, TELL US ABOUT THEM?

I would like to have a kind of 2500W peak of sub and have better sound by amplifying my tweeter, mid and high RMS?

so..

Audio control or 2 amps will do the job ? WHAT DO YOU MEAN WITH AUDIO CONTROL?

Ported or not ? PORTED OR EVEN BETTER BANDPASS IF LOUD IS YOUR GOAL

Deadending question...thanks you so much WHAT QUESTION?

Battery...i'll change it if i see i have problem with power! IT'S NOT THE BATTERY YOU HAVE TO CHANGE, YOU CAN ADD A 2ND ONE AND UPGRADE ALTERNATOR.

packetrace

10-27-2010, 02:12 PM

packetrace

10-27-2010, 02:22 PM

i forgot to mention....1000 RMS for the sub (500 each)

100 rms for the 6x9

and 70 rms for the 6.5

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 02:38 PM

My HU is a kenwood mp-345U ...only one rca output....I was looking for Alpine Type R for the sub....they look great and i had nice comment on them
Audiocontrol i mean...what you have already been talking in your thread....the one you have bought.....do i really need this
I'll go for the ported sub boxes
deadending i was just saying thank you...i will look at foam cld tiles and MLV i'll you use thos three
Battery....i've seen people changing the battery for a more powerful on and adding the big three of course but not changing the alternator and adding a second battery......perhaps...how much for an alternator of 200 amp ?
thank you!!

Your HU will work fine. (add an EQ with subwoofer like the one I'm selling and you can hook up 2 or 3 amps)

Alpine type R is a good choice.

At some point a got an active cross over from AudioControl and I returned, and I'm very happy of doing so. After that I got a Pioneer P-99 with many features to control sound.

Ported boxes are loud.

If loud bass is what you want for the Trunk I recommend you 2 or 3 layers of Mat instead of CLD+CCF+MLV system.

Search the forum for battery/alternator information there is a lot of info here.

I hope it helps!

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 02:49 PM

i forgot to mention....1000 RMS for the sub (500 each)
100 rms for the 6x9
and 70 rms for the 6.5

That's a lot of power!

I was running 65watts x4 for mids and tweets and its more than enough for me. 400 watts into the 10" woofer.

12 years ago I had a system in my small truck and people could hear/feel me coming 3 or 4 blocks away! it was a blast. Sound Quality (SQ was terrible tough) it was something like this:

HU with 1 RCA
EQ with subwoofer control (1 RCA input - 3 RCAs output [1 for subs])
400 watts for subs
60x4 watts for front and rear speakers
Two 12 inch pioneer woofers, Ported 2 cubic feet each

Check this thread I think you are going to like it!

LINK (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26458)

D:thumbup:

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 03:03 PM

Battery....i've seen people changing the battery for a more powerful on and adding the big three of course but not changing the alternator and adding a second battery......perhaps...how much for an alternator of 200 amp ?
thank you!!

DID YOU SEE THIS LINK? (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30204)

packetrace

10-27-2010, 03:27 PM

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 04:14 PM

P-99 is the EQ that has 1 RCA in and 3 RCA out ? and will control the sub level ? and mid, tweet and high level ? How much ?

So i would need and amp for my sub, a 4x65 for my front speaker and tweeter and a third amp (2x100)for my rear ?

add a second battery in the trunk and connect to the a new alternator.....and connect my actual battery to the new alternator ? all that with 0gauge wire

P-99 its a head unit not an EQualizer!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/4SALE/1218f4ce.jpg

You just need 2 amps, for front speakers + tweeter use passive x over.

packetrace

10-27-2010, 05:12 PM

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 05:40 PM

ohh!!! I'm sorry !! so the EQ is the picture you show me right here ? what the model ? how much ?.....and it has 3out 1 in ..right ?
thanks for 2 the information on passive xover.....it connects with rca and then a wire to the tweeter right ?
thanks you for the time you give me !

EQ6500 Pioneer $50 + shipping 1 rca in 3 rca out

passive x over goes after amp. then splits in mid and tweeter.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TMiLBYfu2aI/AAAAAAAAcx0/By-680J2j7o/s720/Pioneer%20USA%20-%20EQ-6500%20-%20-%20Google%20Chrome%2010272010%2042255%20PM.bmp.jpg

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/4954/eq28as.jpg

Example of a passive x over:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/ccross1.jpg

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 05:45 PM

ohh!!!

thanks you for the time you give me !

Look at this graphic, basically it's what you want...

HU to EQ,

Then EQ to Amps

Amps to Speakers.

http://www.carstereo.com/rayfes/images/transam.gif

packetrace

10-27-2010, 05:59 PM

ANd the X over are next to the speaker ?

and the pioneer EQ 6500 is the on you are selling ? i'll take it for sure

derickveliz2

10-27-2010, 06:09 PM

ANd the X over are next to the speaker ?

and the pioneer EQ 6500 is the on you are selling ? i'll take it for sure

Yes x overs go between Amp and speakers.

Yes EQ-6500 still for sale...

PM me for details.

D.

why?

10-27-2010, 09:35 PM

Alien Mantis

10-27-2010, 10:33 PM

OK guys, I'm finally getting a replacement for the Bachuka! it will be an Image Dynamics IDQ12 V3.D4

Now it's time to think about what kind of box! Sealed? Ported? Bandpass Box? even Free Air, this sub is so flexible!

I'm sure you will love it.

I see them suckers ain't cheap! $280. Wow.

Since you are picky, you are probably going to have to try both a "ported" and a "sealed" box... just to see which one YOU like better.

I wouldn't even attempt to recommend anything to you.

lol

I seen your little pods. Really cool looking. They will look nice when you get them all sanded down and painted.

Alien Mantis

10-27-2010, 11:22 PM

Now it's time to think about what kind of box! Sealed? Ported? Bandpass Box? even Free Air, this sub is so flexible!

lol.... I think if you stick that IDQ sub in a bandpass box, SqComp is gonna drive over to your house and put his foot in your rear-end!

:biggrin:

An IDQ in a bandpass box for an SQ system?

Wow... and I got sh1t for recommending an ALPINE Type-R sub.

:eek:

derickveliz2

10-28-2010, 12:42 AM

lol.... I think if you stick that IDQ sub in a bandpass box, SqComp is gonna drive over to your house and put his foot in your rear-end!

:biggrin:

An IDQ in a bandpass box for an SQ system?

Wow... and I got sh1t for recommending an ALPINE Type-R sub.

:eek:

:clap: Alien Mantis... you made my day! :thumbup:

I want SqComp to visit New England!!! Yeah!!!

I was just checking the specs of the IDQ12

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/WOOFERS/0ee609b2.jpg
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/WOOFERS/e34e03ba.jpg
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/WOOFERS/f1609620.jpg

D.:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

10-28-2010, 03:05 AM

:wink:
Well I did some more resin + fiber glass on the spheres, reinforcing the week points and beefing up
the area that will be mechanically attached to the A-Pillar.

The resin set up quickly so mean while I did some Tweeter restoration...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/c24de1d9.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/tweeters/e693f5c4.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/tweeters/c2ce6ade.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/tweeters/ec128790.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/tweeters/30c19418.jpg

These are small and from the bunch I have (Zeus 1" tweeter and JBL TS-25) they produce the sweetest sounds from all the above, the JBLs are louder and the Zeus are a little harsh. So if the restoration didn't screw them up, I'll try to do smaller spheres. If not, I may use the Zeus or start thinking about a new pair of tweeters!

D. :thumbsup:

packetrace

10-28-2010, 10:13 AM

How do you choose your mid speaker....by size....by Frequency Response ?

derickveliz2

10-28-2010, 12:43 PM

How do you choose your mid speaker....by size....by Frequency Response ?

If you are going to put them in the doors just pick any 6.5" speaker of your choice.

D.

derickveliz2

10-28-2010, 01:22 PM

How do you choose your mid speaker....by size....by Frequency Response ?

These Zeus Hifonics are the ones I got for the doors, soon I'll uninstall them and putting a midbass drive in kick panels. See how the OEM speaker looks so wimpy!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9172.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9170.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9255.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9259.jpg

packetrace

10-28-2010, 05:12 PM

So if i resume it...

Tweeter = those little black speaker with cross over

Mid = 6.5'' in the front door

Mid bass = 6x9'' ah the back

Sub = 2 x 12'' alpine type R (which i'll buy)

I amplify my mid bass , mid and my tweet...but i but a X over between the amp and the tweet and also the mid...or only xover for the tweet ?

Thank you

derickveliz2

10-28-2010, 05:51 PM

I amplify my mid bass , mid and my tweet...but i but a X over between the amp and the tweet and also the mid...or only xover for the tweet ?
Thank you

I'll make a sketch for you tonight! :thumbsup:

D.

packetrace

10-28-2010, 05:57 PM

Oh thank you ! I really like YarisWorld everyone is helpful to everyone !! :D I'm impatient to see this :O

derickveliz2

10-28-2010, 09:15 PM

I'll make a sketch for you tonight! :thumbsup:

D.

I hope it helps!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Sound%20System/ca338856.jpg

D.:thumbsup:

packetrace

10-28-2010, 09:42 PM

NICEEE I LIKE GRAPHICS !!!!! Thanks you so much!!!!

derickveliz2

10-30-2010, 02:59 AM

I've been so busy, and this weekend we have BOO-BOO, and Fiambre
(Guatemala tradition of a one-of-a-kind food that we only prepare once a year) any way...

I did a little bit of sanding and located the areas on the spheres that needed some reinforment, also added some plywood inside where the a hollow male nipple will hold them in place, the wires will go through.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/e1f9832f.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/26ccd578.jpg

male nipple:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/e3e75afe.jpg

D.

packetrace

10-30-2010, 01:48 PM

sqcomp

10-30-2010, 02:24 PM

D,

You could also look at thread-serts. They're like the ones I used in my A-pillars for the L4 baffle.

Also, take a look at what I have access to:

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/Pioneer1.jpg

Something tells me you may want this reference disc? I can burn you a copy...

derickveliz2

10-31-2010, 03:15 AM

What fuse have you used for the power wire from alternator to battery ?

And if i put a 2nd battery in the trunk....i plug tthe red to alternator and the ground to body....like the one in the the hood ?

thanks
A.

I'm lost here, I didn't use any fuses from the alt to the battery? :iono:

I din't put a 2nd battery, I don't really need it, my voltage with 3 amps shows an average of 13.8 volts most of the time.

derickveliz2

10-31-2010, 03:19 AM

D, take a look at what I have access to:

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/Pioneer1.jpg

Something tells me you may want this reference disc? I can burn you a copy...

:bow::bow:Yes please! :drool::drool::drool:

.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup :

derickveliz2

10-31-2010, 03:22 AM

D,You could also look at thread-serts. They're like the ones I used in my A-pillars for the L4 baffle.

What are these? :eek: I Google them but couldn't figure out how they look or how they work and where to get them. :iono:

D.

derickveliz2

10-31-2010, 03:24 AM

I went to Lowe's to get the "nipple(s)" but it won't work, by the time I get all the nuts and washers it gets too big, I may not be able to fit the 3" driver in the sphere.
I'm going to have to make 2 holes one for a bolt and other for the wires. Sqcomp tells me to use thread-serts so I'm digging more about it.

D.

derickveliz2

10-31-2010, 03:31 AM

Some thing like this is what I'm looking for...

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i38/snaimpally/Pod1.jpg

sqcomp

10-31-2010, 05:29 PM

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG1999.jpg

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG2000.jpg

Look into the holes...

It will couple like this:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll158/your_luxxxury/P7123153.jpg

You see the ones I got? The two pictures on top? Those are actually inserted with an allen wrench. That makes it SUPER simple. Look around at the harware stores locally. If you have a good one, they'll have these. As a last resort, I can get you these.

derickveliz2

11-02-2010, 01:36 PM

It will couple like this:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll158/your_luxxxury/P7123153.jpg

You see the ones I got? The two pictures on top? Those are actually inserted with an allen wrench. That makes it SUPER simple. Look around at the harware stores locally. If you have a good one, they'll have these. As a last resort, I can get you these.

Yeah! I could use something like that to hold the HL-70s in the spheres!

Thanks,

I'm still shopping around for a mechanical system to attach the spheres to the A-pillars, I have a few ideas but nothing tangible

D.

sqcomp

11-02-2010, 03:53 PM

Let me know. Perhaps we can brainstorm something up.

derickveliz2

11-03-2010, 04:09 AM

Thanks sqcomp. It's nice to have a friend with crazy ideas for a Yaris; just like Me! :biggrin:

This is what I was looking for! :thumbup:

I think it will work, and I'll be able to pass the wires through! :wink:

I used hot glue to hold the sphere in place, now lets drill a hole and use the Lamp Nipples I got at the local hard ware store!!! :thumbsup:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/90ace6e4.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/002de7e6.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/a1c5e34b.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/4819ed45.jpg

sqcomp

11-03-2010, 11:22 AM

Grumble

That just seems way too big. Imagine that a pillar. When you want to move or service that tweeter, how is it going to work? With the thread sert idea you will eliminate one of the nuts and washers that I see in the pictures above.

Take that thread sert that I suggested put it in the side of the pod/sphere. Now mount it to the a pillar with a screw coming through the back of the pillar. You can put rubber washers on the backside of the pillar and in between the pillar and the sphere to decouple them from vibrations.

derickveliz2

11-04-2010, 03:05 AM

sqcomp, I understand what you mean... let me try this way because I want to have the A-pillars and spheres be 2 peaces, instead of molding them in "one" I'm more concern on the Structure of the A-pillar and how it's going to react with the extra weight! of the 3" mid driver; did you reinforce the A-pillar from the insde on the lower portion, it's kind of floating in the air by it self, there are no mechanical attachments in that area besides the 2 little guides at the bottom.

D.

sqcomp

11-04-2010, 03:14 AM

I think you misunderstand me...

I'm thinking the same way you are, just with a smaller, simpler connection point.

derickveliz2

11-04-2010, 03:15 AM

I think you misunderstand me...

I'm thinking the same way you are, just with a smaller, simpler connection point.

GOT IT! :thumbsup:

Look what I did!

D.:thumbup:

derickveliz2

11-04-2010, 03:16 AM

Here is how it goes, little by little every night!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/01611248.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/710f9d62.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/1517b720.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/f25d8a9d.jpg

Left side too:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/14ad00de.jpg

Behind A-pillar

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/ca23350f.jpg

So far the aiming its right where Hertz-Audio recommends for the HL-70's

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/4c4d1f03.jpg

Now it's all about SANDING AND SANDING!

I'm going to detach the spheres and cover the A-pillars with plastic/tape then re attach the spheres...
and work some BONDO... Yeah!!! I never have done this before so I'm exited.

Then... more SANDING!

D.

derickveliz2

11-04-2010, 03:54 AM

FYI...

Now that I'm playing around with the A-pillars I can tell how much ENGINE NOISE can get into the cabin when these are not installed (A-pillars)

If you ever take them out! stuff some foam in the lower corners where they meat with the dash board :thumbup: to help and kill engine noise. Give them a try. just pull them out and experience the difference!

Also... just for FUN

I took this photo yesterday, and my little ride shows up on the lower right corner!

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0uPhXFVEEJE/TNI4N_7Y4YI/AAAAAAAAc58/BkZriv6joBc/s640/DSC09140.JPG

derickveliz2

11-05-2010, 01:19 AM

I download a copy of "IASCA OFFICIAL SOUND QUALITY CD" and I enjoyed it a lot, it's awesome to go through each section, I really like the Front Stage part with 3 people talking one on each side and a woman in the center; also a track with 7 drums spread out starting on the left equally spaced. Also a couple of songs that put my 6.5 drivers in a work out. There is a lot more that I don't understand, but I'm all for learning about Sound Quality.

Very interesting! :bow:

NOTE: :eek: I'm only running a pair of 6.5" speakers in the front doors from 53Hz all the way up to 12kHz, (now I understand why I really want my midbass in kickpanels, the doors are bad speaker boxes) the Bachuka from 20Hz to 40Hz. My stage is very low as is but still very interesting.

Can't wait to have all speakers and amps working together.

D. :wink:

derickveliz2

11-05-2010, 03:19 AM

Herbicidal

11-05-2010, 12:01 PM

I download a copy of "IASCA OFFICIAL SOUND QUALITY CD"
Hey Derick, do you have a link for the download? Is it free? Thanks.

sqcomp

11-05-2010, 12:11 PM

derickveliz2

11-05-2010, 01:13 PM

I'm shaking my head because no one has ever asked me about reference discs...

There is also a better front end track than that IASCA drum cut. It's from a Bass Mechanik CD, it's called Front End Alignment. It has a lot of the different percussion pieces found on a drum kit to test across the sound stage. In other words, the track isn't limited to snare drums. It has about a dozen percussion pieces to test out the FULL range of your front stage.

I downloaded that track too! it's awesome! :w00t: you mentioned long time ago in one of your threads, but back then with out Time Alignment® didn't make so much sense.

so you have some more reference discs to share with us :drool:

derickveliz2

11-05-2010, 01:15 PM

Hey Derick, do you have a link for the download? Is it free? Thanks.

Try this one:

LINK (IASCA_OFFICIAL_SOUND_QUALITY_CD.rar)

These are other tracks you can download too:

LINK 2 (http://ampguts.com/cmps_index.php?pageid=audio_downloads)

Or PM me and I'll send the cool tracks by e-mail

D. :thumbsup:

Palmer812

11-05-2010, 01:29 PM

What Bass Mechanik disc is it? Have you ever checked out "My Disc"? It is the Autosound 2000 test disc by Sheffield Labs.

derickveliz2

11-05-2010, 01:55 PM

What Bass Mechanik disc is it? Have you ever checked out "My Disc"? It is the Autosound 2000 test disc by Sheffield Labs.

I don't know! I only downloaded the song called "Front End Alignment"

D.:thumbsup:

Alien Mantis

11-05-2010, 05:53 PM

Tonight I took off the spheres from the A-pillars and sanded the rough edges, then applied a layer of "BONDO" well not exactly Bondo but very similar... it's called "GLAZE COAT - Polyester Finishing and Blending Putty" according to the guy at the audio shop this is not as hard as the Bondo. It should be easier to sand!

Bad mistake.

That "glazing putty" is for filling-in tiny scratches.
It is NOT a substitute for BONDO, and you don't ever want to slap a bunch of it on there like you did on your spheres.
You made a mess.

"Glazing putty" is used AFTER the Bondo, to fill-in the tiny scratches.
And also: BEFORE you use the BONDO, you wanna scuff-up the surface with 80-grit sandpaper, so the bondo will adhere to the surface better.

The guy who recommended you do that is obviously not a paint & body man.

You actually WANT a hard surface. Whether it is "easy to sand" or not is not even the issue!

I do like your lamp nipples for the attachment. Nice to run the wires inside them. And good job on the larger washers.

Now GET THEM FINISHED and PAINTED so we can see what they look like!
( gonna look like two big ol` BUG EYES staring at you from the dash! )

:biggrin:

packetrace

11-05-2010, 08:23 PM

I really like those A-Pillar with those balls for the tweeter it looks so sweet :D

sqcomp

11-05-2010, 09:15 PM

derickveliz2

11-06-2010, 03:55 AM

Bad mistake.
That "glazing putty" is for filling-in tiny scratches.
It is NOT a substitute for BONDO, and you don't ever want to slap a bunch of it on there like you did on your spheres.
You made a mess.
"Glazing putty" is used AFTER the Bondo, to fill-in the tiny scratches.
And also: BEFORE you use the BONDO, you wanna scuff-up the surface with 80-grit sandpaper, so the bondo will adhere to the surface better.
The guy who recommended you do that is obviously not a paint & body man.
You actually WANT a hard surface. Whether it is "easy to sand" or not is not even the issue!
I do like your lamp nipples for the attachment. Nice to run the wires inside them. And good job on the larger washers.
Now GET THEM FINISHED and PAINTED so we can see what they look like!
( gonna look like two big ol` BUG EYES staring at you from the dash! )
:biggrin:

Thanks A.M. I knew there was some thing wrong... :iono: :eek:

Mess or not, I'm having fun! sanding and mixing. Remember that some of the best ideas come from mistakes.

Bad or wrong I'm getting every body in the same boat, and for other newbies like me will learn how not to do it! :thumbsup:

I did sand the spheres with 80-grit! before applying glazing putty

This glazing putty gets pretty hard and it's not easy to sand, I can't imagine "Bondo" (I have never worked with Bondo)

I like the lamp nipples too, they are strong and useful. Thanks.

Now to get them finished mmm.... that's going to take a while, you know me I'm very slow :thumbsup:

BTW... I would like to finish the spheres with FLOCK (http://www.sbp.me.uk/what_is_flocking.php), does any body know how to do it or where to buy the materials? or a DIY

These photos show my progress, after 20 minutes of sanding on each sphere and some test fit with the HL-70's and at the end next to a 6.5" Premier component, Huuug the HL-70 look so tiny, just for reference the spheres are 5" diameter. I finished the night work with a second layer of... you know that glazing putty :biggrin: more sanding over the weekend. :eek:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/9a1e9d32.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/f95dc492.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/028ea5a1.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/d78c0685.jpg

D.:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

11-06-2010, 04:03 AM

I really like those A-Pillar with those balls for the tweeter it looks so sweet :D

Thanks packetrace!

But no tweeters here "yet" The HL-70 are Mid-rage drivers; a second set of spheres will host the tweeters! :thumbsup:

diffractions-diffractions-diffractions

http://www.silcom.com/~aludwig/images/diffdem.gif

http://sound.westhost.com/bstep-f2.gif
http://sound.westhost.com/bstep-f1.gif

LINK to diffractions information (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/65061-improve-your-soundstage-$2.html)
.

Thanks again:thumbsup:
D.:smile:

derickveliz2

11-06-2010, 04:17 AM

There's going to be a stage width issue with the spheres, that's the downside. The constructive criticism part is coming out here. I would have made the sphere's aimable on the X and Y axis. Still, let's see how these turn out! I'm excited to see a finished product.

To expand on what AM is saying, for filling space, get some kitty hair in there. Look for long strand filler, then move to short strand, then move to filler, THEN move to glazing putty...THEN move to high build primer...THEN move to texture spray...THEN move to the color.

Guess how many of those steps I used for my A-pillars? ALL OF THEM! There was plenty and I mean PLENTY of sanding going on. That's why my finished pillars look so good. There was a LOT of time spent on them (and to think that I'm not even finished).

"There's going to be a stage width issue with the spheres" :eek: :brokenheart:

Please expand on this, explain? :iono:

" I would have made the sphere's aimable on the X and Y axis"

I thought about it but the anchor would have been too big, and I did what you did testing the L4's aiming in different ways until they sound better, I tried "off axis" up and down I spent like 2 month moving the Mids (HL-70) around until I found the sweet spot, I will do the same for tweeters, like I wrote above tweeters get their spheres too! and these may get a camera pivot at the beginning and then after finding the right aiming will place fixed, all depend on how my new L1v2 will respond inside my car. Yes I did wrote L1v2! :thumbup:

"PLENTY of sanding going on"

I know!!! it scares me, but I'm working on it. :biggrin:

:bow::bow::bow:"That's why my finished pillars look so good"...A+

D.:thumbsup:

packetrace

11-06-2010, 01:03 PM

I can't wait to see this done.....maybe i could do this with my tweeter in my car :O
They lookso great with those little nertz ..im a kind of jaleous !!

sqcomp

11-06-2010, 05:03 PM

derickveliz2

11-06-2010, 11:43 PM

I can't wait to see this done.....maybe i could do this with my tweeter in my car :O
They lookso great with those little nertz ..im a kind of jaleous !!

Yes you can, I don't see why not! the tweeter gets a lot of benefits been in a sphere, in other words you shouldn't be able to locate your tweeter when playing it just disappears

I found this in a Robb Report magazine:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/4e52db69.jpg

The Mid-range drivers HL-70 from Hertz are beautiful made in Italy

D.:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

11-07-2010, 12:49 AM

We'll hear how they sound when you get them fired up pertaining to the stage width issue.

Also, those mounting holes for the speakers, you can use thread-serts in there as well so you don't chew up the baffle when you take the speakers in and out.

From DIYMA.com

STAGE WIDTH :
Stage Width refers to the distance between the left and right boundaries of the sound stage. Good systems will create a wide sound stage. Excellent sound systems will have sound stages that appear to surpass the physical boundaries of the vehicle interior.

How the spheres would subtract stage width? in one of the threads a few weeks ago, you told me: "go for the spheres!"

I realize that the distance between drivers it's smaller if using the spheres, that is why I wanted to have them in front of the "sail panels" remember my first attempt; because I wanted the drivers as far away from each other, even I asked what was better if having them further from listener or a little closer but farther apart from each driver... for convenience I decided to go this way, I like the look but also keeping them separated from the A-pillars structure keeping me away from trouble that the joins between the baffle and the A-pillar would "Crack".

I see a lot of Team Hybrids and others installations have the drivers aiming very similar to what I wil have, do they have the same stage width issues?

Here a few installations!

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c156/jimbecker/hybrid_build_120107007.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc163/doitor/Pilares%20Hal/IMG_0985.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a128/Ianaconi/DSC00470.jpg

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll187/listen2me95/DSC01033.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c156/jimbecker/downloadfile-2.jpg

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/niebur3/Screenshot2010-10-27at52040PM.png

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/659/2161/1646080315_large.jpg

I agree 100% I'm going to use thread-serts to hold the drivers. "very clever"

Thanks

D.:burnrubber:

sickpuppy1

11-07-2010, 12:54 AM

Yes you can, I don't see why not! the tweeter gets a lot of benefits been in a sphere, in other words you shouldn't be able to locate your tweeter when playing it just disappears

I found this in a Robb Report magazine:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/BALLS/4e52db69.jpg

The Mid-range drivers HL-70 from Hertz are beautiful made in Italy

D.:thumbsup:
http://www.marklevinson.com/ProductDetails.aspx?prdid=1

Well If your gonna use those speakers, might as well get these amps to push them.....the best you can get....wanna know the price?lol

packetrace

11-07-2010, 01:38 AM

hmmmmmm that gives us much idea thanks Derick !!!

.Kevin.

11-07-2010, 01:06 AM

WOW looks great man, how did you get the guts to see your car in that condition lol

derickveliz2

11-07-2010, 01:33 AM

WOW looks great man, how did you get the guts to see your car in that condition lol

Don't ask me, ask my wife, she went nuts one day when she went down stairs and found all the interior panels and seats all over the place!

she asked me, if I was going to be able to put it back together, I just smile at her.

Thanks

D.

sqcomp

11-07-2010, 03:46 PM

The 1st and 4th pictures are of Jim Becker's old and newer setups. The answer to your question of stage width will be answered by the front end setup track. Run that track through and listen to see if the sound extends beyond the boundaries of the pillars.

You also notice that those pods are MASSIVE! You guys thought mine were big. My pillars are made to highlight imaging and soundstage accuracy.

As for construction details, I understand what and why you're doing it. I'm on your side. I may have done this approach a little differently, but it's not my setup. Make it happen, don't think I'm trying to shoot you down.