Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade [Archive] - Toyota Yaris Forums

sqcomp

03-03-2010, 11:58 PM

Ha ha...

I love it. I've got a big smile on my face right now. In a month or so, you'll see the same pictures on my photobucket account. I'll drop that headliner as well. I've got to get those rear speakers out like yours to make some room for the woofers to "vent" into the cabin. I'll be putting some roadkill and foam on both sides of the deck. I absolutely know that two IDQ 12"s off a Q1200.1 will have the ability to blow a hole in that Yaris. We're going to be "blocking" the subs off from the rest of the trunk with some plexi and forcing the pressure to vent up into the cabin instead of hitting the back of the trunk. It should be a nice showy little piece...

I like the separate file on picasaweb with a strangely familiar Yaris on there! :) I'll do my best over these next few months to have more pictures up for you.

derickveliz2

03-04-2010, 01:46 AM

Awesome!!!

derickveliz2

03-04-2010, 11:37 AM

sqcomp,

In one of your threads for the back seat you wrote: "It’s a good tug on both sides that releases the two seat clips from their respective holders."

That means that I have to pull it up really hard?

Thanks

Derick

sqcomp

03-04-2010, 03:46 PM

It's really more of an awkward pull, especially the first time, than anything else. You'll look at it and say...huh, that looks like it should come off easier. It's just a tight fitting valance piece. That's all.

You'll understand once you do it.

After that whole gutting of the interior, I hadn't broken anything. I give credit to Toyota's parts quality.

derickveliz2

03-04-2010, 04:11 PM

Thanks I'll try tonight, I don't feel like treating so hard my car, but I guess that is how it's done, unless we are missing something here.

I did manage to break the panel that goes in the trunk covering the back of the bumper, you know that long section right below the trunk lid. It's not that bad but it has a small crack of about 3-4 inches.

D.

hatchbackkid82

03-04-2010, 05:24 PM

try using peel and seal for sound deadening, way cheaper than dynamat and just as effective. Just google it and see

talnlnky

03-04-2010, 05:31 PM

try using peel and seal for sound deadening, way cheaper than dynamat and just as effective. Just google it and see

yeah... peel n seal works great for the floorboards or other panels that aren't exposed to the sun. I've had some issue with it getting too warm and slowly peeling off if it were on a plastic panel, or on a metal panel that is warmed by the suns rays.... for example, the doors or roof.

derickveliz2

03-04-2010, 05:36 PM

try using peel and seal for sound deadening, way cheaper than dynamat and just as effective. Just google it and see

Thanks,

I got all materials from Don (rudeboy) at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

66 CLD Tiles
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
1 67.5 ft² roll MLV
3 sheets 1/4" CCF
3 sheets 1/8" CCF
1 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides, 10-pack
2 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides, 2-pack
1 8 oz ca HH-66
1 2" Solid Maple Roller

He's a great guy to work with

:thumbsup:

Also have about 30 SF of RAAMmat BXT from www.raamaudio.com (even I don't really need it) is better a little extra than not enough

:thumbsup:

sqcomp

03-04-2010, 11:58 PM

I know which panel you're talking about too! That little bastard was giving me fits as well.

derickveliz2

03-05-2010, 03:00 AM

Back seat is OUT! took me 1 hour just for that. What a pain.

I started putting some CLD tiles on the back deck and left quarter panel! this stuff is amazing!

I'm getting addictive to nock nock .... peal and stick and tock tock; it's almost 2 am and I need to go to bed, at least for a couple of hours before hitting the road for work.

It's going slow but I'm really enjoying it.

sqcomp

03-05-2010, 08:36 AM

Oh I hear you...you have seen what I've gone through.

How difficult was the back deck compared to the back seat?

derickveliz2

03-05-2010, 09:06 AM

The back deck is a piece of cake compare to the back seat, no problem at all.

Originally I was only going to see how to take it out, and in 20 min I end up doing what you see in the picture above. Do not count taking the speaker out, that was another 20 minutes.

.

derickveliz2

03-05-2010, 12:21 PM

I took the OEM 6x9 speakers out, to my surprise they are light like a feather, compare with 3.5 speakers...

:eek:

.

sqcomp

03-05-2010, 12:23 PM

Out of curiosity...do you have the 6 airbags in your sedan?

derickveliz2

03-05-2010, 12:25 PM

no, I don't

D.

derickveliz2

03-05-2010, 02:14 PM

This is just the beginning, I made a little video clip to show how CLD tiles work.
In the rear quarter panels I applied 2 CLD Tiles to one side check it out!

[NOTE] So far I have found 1 or 2 OEM tiles of deadening from Toyota, one on the right quarter panel and it's dry and cracking, I'm going to take it down, and put another 2 CLD Tiles.

.

Click the link:

VIDEO (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkDh5qQDO_M)

.
:thumbup:

.

sqcomp

03-05-2010, 04:57 PM

damn! I was moving gingerly around those C-pillars simply because of the airbag option in my sedan...

...I've been trying to find someone who has taken the pillars off and dropped the headliner with that airbag option.

Looks like I'll be the one to guinea pig this one...

http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-violent074.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)

derickveliz2

03-06-2010, 01:28 AM

Huuuh that is a tuff call.

sqcomp

03-06-2010, 01:34 AM

Oh, the call is already made. I just have to be careful so as not to impede the operation of those airbags.

30 someodd days until I hit US soil...after the demobilization...this car is going to be transformed.

derickveliz2

03-08-2010, 10:27 AM

Huuh!!! GOOD for you man! only 30 days, can't wait to see you put your hands in your Yaris.

BTW... how did you deal with the vent in the trunk, now that I'm driving without any carpet or back seats (it's very noisy) I can hear a lot of noise coming from that little vent. For example when I switch from fresh air to circ.

I know this has been in other threads but I wonder if there a creative way to take care of this and not loose it's function.

sqcomp

03-08-2010, 11:55 AM

I've got everything back in. with all the deadening in the cabin, the only noise I get is from the windows really. Once the amprack and sub enclosure is in, the trunk vents will no longer be any issue at all.

derickveliz2

03-09-2010, 11:10 AM

I spent 3 hrs last night, most of the time in the trunk and quarter panels. Applying the vibration dampeners (CLD Tiles) on the small flat surfaces covering about 25-35% of the area to stop the vibrations.

This morning my ride was not as loud. It's incredible to feel the difference, the rear end fills more solid, I can't wait to put on the Foam and the Vinyl to block the noise. I made my own scale to qualify the level of noise, been 10 the loudest (no rear seats, no rear trim panels nothing in the trunk. and 1 been in idle at a stop sign. EOM is right in the middle 5 (this is my own scale for reference only)

So yesterday noise level was at 10, today was at 9 and I found something very particular...

At highway speeds I hear a butterfly noise + road noise, very loud in the back (noise level 9), it's the air valve on the left side of the car at the rear quarter panel. if I close the circulation air the road noise goes away but the flapping gets worst (noise level 8).

Then I tried to open the front right window just a little bit, the road and butterfly noise goes away,(noise level 7) very interesting, I'm going to have to do something about this valve.

I went under the car and looks like I'm going to apply CLD Tiles to the metal sheet that is in front of this valve, also I was thinking in doing a small partition with MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) and CCF (Closed Cell Foam) with a small acoustical box inside the trunk, to block that noise. (this way I can practice cutting and gluing the MLV)

(I know I'll have some other issues once the sound waves of the sub-woofer travel around the trunk, but I can't take out the purpose of this valve away, I have a 3 year old son and I don't want to smash his ears every time we close the door; I don't know now what will happen, we'll figure out as we go)

Lets see how it goes.

Back to work...

derickveliz2

03-10-2010, 10:46 AM

Ok, so I spent another 3 hours list night again. My wife is not very happy I went to bed around 2:30am. This is something I'm really enjoin!!!

I applied more CLD Tiles to the trunk floor, under the back seat and trunk lid. In some sections I put extra RAAMmat BXT, now I'm thinking more speaker like so I end up covering most of the holes and putting it over joins and some corners not to kill vibrations on the metal but to help with acoustics.

For the air valve I taped a small piece of packing foam right in front of the vent, and that made a huge difference.

Noise level this morning was at 6, very impressive.

.

_S7V7N_

03-10-2010, 11:01 AM

Where you plan on putting that 3.5 ? And what kind is it ? I have my eye on this powerbass to mount in the c-pillar since i plan on doing away with my 6x9's all together.

http://www.amazon.com/PowerBass-S-352-3-5-Inch-Coaxial-Speaker/dp/B001JT7DAQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1268233176&sr=8-2

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32201&stc=1&d=1267805957

derickveliz2

03-10-2010, 11:15 AM

Where you plan on putting that 3.5 ? And what kind is it ?

They are Rockford Fosgate Punch P132C 3-1/2", got them cheap at

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7262_Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+P132C.html

I also got a bass blocker for them.

They will be installed in the rear deck where the 9x6 where. Letting the bass from the sub-woofer travel through the cabin.

:rolleyes:

.

_S7V7N_

03-10-2010, 11:40 AM

derickveliz2

03-10-2010, 12:01 PM

Yeah i seen that Capacitor " bass blocker " tied into the side, i was wondering if that came with the speaker. Nice price and name brand :thumbup: Lolll....I'd be scared to send my 3.5 flying off with all the pressure i plan on having comming out of my trunk. I plan on putting it in the c-pillar facing somewhat forward if possible. i think the cutout is something like 3.125, so not a Huge hole.

No it's not in the picture, this is what I got

Stinger SGJ92 Bass Blocker 0-600Hz (http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/3920441/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046)

I'm looking forward to see you installation, did you started yet?

I'm also going to use this for the speaker at the rear deck:

http://app.infopia.com/img/image/fp/VPID/2669742

.
:w00t:

_S7V7N_

03-10-2010, 12:25 PM

I have the Base so my seats don't fold, so the 6x9 holes will vent the air to the cab of the car. Loll my poor 6x9's right now, i bet the paper cones all screwed up on them...I'll see when i remove them.

Right now i have two kicker cvr 12's in a sealed box, but it's a Messy installation, I'd rather sell them and Order the Type R's but Money's tight, So i'll run the Cvr's for now. I actually plan on seeing if i can Mount my spare tire under the car today if i do i'll have pics of that. The rest of the stuff i ordered on monday, my 6.5's will be here tomorrow, and amp and amp kit should be here periodically throughout the week. By next week i'll order the Brutus 1600. then all that's left is the sub box which Taln is running specs on his program. Here's my Head unit, which i need to do some work on as well, I'll later on sell that and get a 7 inch flip up.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee171/dark_mess1ah/autolist/Order2004-1.jpg

derickveliz2

03-10-2010, 12:28 PM

Right now i have two kicker cvr 12's in a sealed box, but it's a Messy installation, I'd rather sell them and Order the Type R's but Money's tight, So i'll run the Cvr's for now. I actually plan on seeing if i can Mount my spare tire under the car today if i do i'll have pics of that. The rest of the stuff i ordered on monday, my 6.5's will be here tomorrow, and amp and amp kit should be here periodically throughout the week. By next week i'll order the Brutus 1600. then all that's left is the sub box which Taln is running specs on his program. Here's my Head unit, which i need to do some work on as well, I'll later on sell that and get a 7 inch flip up.

Nice!

Why do you want to move spare tire under the car?

_S7V7N_

03-10-2010, 12:37 PM

I'm going to mount the amps down in there and my capacitor, and eventually a battery, then be able to put a board over it for everyday use, and plexiglass for shows. So all that will be in the actual trunk are the subs, right now i don't have much room with the amp and stuff mounted in there.. like i said.. messy install.

My g/f hates to take the camry everytime we go shopping, so this way i can have a bit of room. Loll unless the box is going to be Hugeee.

derickveliz2

03-10-2010, 12:45 PM

_S7V7N_

03-10-2010, 01:01 PM

I'll take pics when i'm out there later on, and start my own install thread, Kind of like a before and after. Im fixin to grab some Lunch and go to our storage unit to pick up some more tools and a quick stop at home depot. I'll throw up and install thread when i get back later on.. Gl on your stuff as well bro and don't upset the wife too much...Loll i've been staying up till 3 everynite doing research on diff things and on the USACI site reading through there forums and my g/f is like....are you going to bed early tonite..Lollll...I just got back into the audio stuff, i had heart surgery las year in Feb so i'm starting to do more and more as far as lifting and stuff like that, I went back to work in August and i think i done popped every damn wire they put in my chest guess it was too soon to run a buffer and 3 stage a whole car..Loll that's what happens when you're young i guess....them wires are made for older people..Anyways a bit off track..I'll hit you back later on.

derickveliz2

03-11-2010, 10:41 AM

2 hours of work last night, and I did finish the Trunk lid. Even dough Don (from sounddeadenershowdown.com) suggested me to apply only CLD Tiles to the Trunk lid I moved forward and treated as a door, well it's kind of a door and added some layers of CCF and a layer of MLV (man that thing is heavy).

I do have to get a pair of longer plastic holders I don't know how they are called but you push them in to hold the panel, the 2 that go in the center end up too short. I've seen this in other threads, so I guess it's common.

Also did the License plate, one CLD Tile and a layer of 1/4" CCF. NICE!

Noise level was between 5 and 6 but I had 2 boxes one with all the CCF and the other one with CLD Tiles. BUT I did notice something different this time! that my radio was set up to increase the volume as I speed up, I know it was set up but never noticed. It got to be the noise level or me putting more attention to every little sound.

I did notice that I don't hear the pipe (OEM muffler) in the rear of the car any more, I hear the engine instead in front. And lots of noise from the doors and floor right under my self.

I need to start laying all the electrical and audio wires before a cover the floor or should I leave them above the MLV and under the carpet?

Lots of work to do...

.

derickveliz2

03-11-2010, 10:57 AM

To Do List:

Trunk Lid - CLD, CCF, MLV, DONE
Licence Plate - CLD CCF, DONE
Install Amp Kit
Install rear speakers
Trunk Floor - CLD
Trunk quarter panels - CLD
Wheel wells - CLD
Floor under back seat -CLD
Rear Deck - CLD
C-Pillar -CLD
Vent valve in trunk -
Right front seat
Left front seat
Fire wall
Rear doors
Front doors
Install tweeters
Roof - Some day
Install EQ
Install Amp
Make box for sub-woofer
More as we go...

.

_S7V7N_

03-11-2010, 11:34 AM

Dude them Rear 6x9's were a biatch, i had a reg ratchet with an adapter, the rear screws killed me. I had to rig something together to be able to get the socket in there. I think i scratched my tint a bit, ohh well i wanted to go darker anyways, and it's not noticeable. The c-pillars and carpet was a piece of cake.

sqcomp

03-11-2010, 02:50 PM

shorty right angle with a low profi socket.

...Hey, S7...get up to Daytona this weekend for the Spring Break Nationals. You want to see sound machines? Go visit the Hybrid Audio groupand prepare to start drooling...

_S7V7N_

03-11-2010, 07:33 PM

I knowww, my monday starts on friday though , so no way i'm getting off, i'm fixin to drop my management position...Lolll so i can do some weekend shows.

derickveliz2

03-16-2010, 05:40 PM

Ok I've spend a couple of hours every day since last Saturday.

These pictures show how I end up applying CLD Tiles to the Trunk, Quarter Panels and Rear Deck, I did put some extra RaamMat in the corners and or blocking openings in the frame.

It's amazing how solid everything feels now. (still the noise penetrates)

Then I put 1/8 CCF (foam) on the floor of the Trunk and Rear Deck, 1/4 CCF under the rear seat and wheel wells.

On top of that goes the MLV (vinyl 1lb/sf), I did put it on the floor of the Trunk under the spare wheel tire, under the Rear Seat and on one wheel well (right side) I haven't seal (with HH-66 Vinyl Cement) the overlappings between MLV layers.

Noise level is getting close to 5, I can tell the road noise from the quarter panels, rear bumper, and left wheel left. (there are no back seats)

For the air valve I end up gluing to the quarter panel cover a 6 x 14 piece of 1/4 CCF and worked great, I hear no road noise coming from that source; I can flip from circ. air and fresh air and I can't tell the difference in noise like I did before.

I also installed the main (-) ground, there was a big nut like the ones that hold the frame of the backseat. I started to run RCA cables and also installed the 3 1/2 speaker on the rear deck.

Only using the OEM radio with OEM front speakers at front and these tiny 3 1/2 speakers, I can tell that I feel the difference already, feels like my OEM stereo got an upgrade :wink: (we are not there yet)

I'm thinking on putting a DashMat like Sqcomp! I got some samples and this is what it looks like, I was thinking on putting a thin layer of 1/8 CCF to help absorb the noise from the windshield.

More soon...

.
:thumbsup:

sqcomp

03-16-2010, 11:31 PM

...I'm leaning towards the Cinder color...

derickveliz2

03-17-2010, 11:01 AM

...I'm leaning towards the Cinder color...

So far I think I'm going to get the Black one, the Ltd Edition it's nice but reflects a lot of light (glare) I asked them for a Black sample, I show another picture once I get the new sample.

D.

derickveliz2

03-17-2010, 11:22 AM

Ok, another late night for me :redface:zzzz

Worked a little bit on the left wheel well, and cut to size CCF for the Pillars, then I took some photos...

In the pictures you can see the CCF (foam) under the MLV (vinyl). In one of the photos you can see how I glue a piece of CCF to the trim panel to absorb road noise coming from the air valve.

Now I have to start gluing all the MLV together (where it overlaps) to create a good "SOUND BARRIER".

Noise level is better than yesterday, with right and left wheel wells covered.

.
:thumbsup:

.

sqcomp

03-17-2010, 12:28 PM

Those lids look good mang...

I still think the best I want to do with mine is to put those factory rims on. I like the way those look. I just can't seem to find the center caps.

_S7V7N_

03-17-2010, 05:05 PM

Nice work, It's comming along very good.

cast

03-17-2010, 06:01 PM

when I was working on my trunk area, I punched the floor pan very hard, I can hear resonance sound that lasts quite a while but I could not determine where it comes from. So I sit in the truck(with 180lb, I thought my weight could make a little difference), but nothing changes. This is so weird. Did you guys have any experience with this?

I will keep working on this car and do some other test.

derickveliz2

03-17-2010, 07:04 PM

derickveliz2

03-19-2010, 02:41 AM

Frames under rear seats is back in place!
RCA cables running front to back, (+) 4g cable ready.

I took pictures will upload tomorrow. (I mean later)

Now I'm realizing / learning / experimenting that doesn't takes much to control resonance with CLD Tiles, and the use of CCF (Closed Cell Foam) to stop trim panels from rattling and the biggest and most wanted The MLV (mass loaded vinyl) barrier to keep the noise out.

Its working (o:

D.

derickveliz2

03-19-2010, 02:12 PM

Pictures of the frames that support the rear seat back in place...

I had to cut and trim the MLV a little bit where the frame anchors with the chassis; the frames fit perfectly.
:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

03-19-2010, 02:23 PM

The rear right door treatment...

Taking the trim panel off was hard I bet the second door will be much easier.

CLD Tiles taking care of the resonances on the flat areas of the door.

My next step is to use 3/8” cylindrical form Extruded Butyl "Rope" this is going behind the intrusion bars, I have to leave gaps for water to drain. I'll take a picture after. This will help with resonances helping CLD Tiles do thier Job.

:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

03-19-2010, 04:52 PM

Ok, here is what I'm going to do! I took a photo of the trim panel put the picture in AutoCAD to scale and then traced over to get the profile of the panel. I'm printing it and then will show if it works or not, I assume there is a factor of error because the camera creates a perspective of the image, but we'll see...

These are snapshots of the process...

derickveliz2

03-23-2010, 02:05 PM

No work over the weekend, the weather was great so I spent time with family, it's raining now, and today's ride was good, noise coming from the rear right door (naked) but all that noise that used to come from the back when raining it's gone.

I'll try to get some thing done tonight

talnlnky

03-24-2010, 03:49 PM

looks good, I hope you get enough dampening from the amount of mat you are using.

derickveliz2

03-24-2010, 04:11 PM

looks good, I hope you get enough dampening from the amount of mat you are using.

Thanks,

I only need to cover 25% at the center of flat panels to control resonance. A few CLD Tiles and the Extruded Butyl "Rope" behind the intrusion bars will take care of vibration damping, the Vinyl and the Foam will take care of the noise.

From...
www.sounddeadenershowdown.com (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi)

"After taming panel resonance with CLD Tiles, add a layer of Closed Cell Foam and a layer of Mass Loaded Vinyl Barrier to block sound. Keeps noise out and your music in."

:thumbsup:

.

talnlnky

03-24-2010, 05:36 PM

yeah, i've read his site... it's been around a very long time. There is a difference between taming a panel, and making that panel dead. Though,... you will probably find that the most rattle in your door isn't the panel anyways, it'll be something stupid like the cable for the door handle, or the locks, or a plastic housing of some sort.

derickveliz2

03-24-2010, 05:38 PM

talnlnky

03-25-2010, 01:40 PM

Yes I agree!

.
:thumbsup:

.
yeah... i hate doors... hatches, trunks, floors, they are sooo much easier.

sqcomp

03-25-2010, 01:53 PM

talnlnky

03-25-2010, 03:27 PM

he he...that's when you deaden the cables too!

from this:

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0235.jpg (http://s720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/?action=view&current=CIMG0235.jpg)

to this:

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0236.jpg (http://s720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/?action=view&current=CIMG0236.jpg)

Don't half-ass it. If you're going to do it, go all the way.

11 days left...

lucky guy... I don't know if i'll ever get around to taking on the doors and actually installing my equipment... Tho, things are looking good on the job hunt. If I make it past the background check & a psych eval i'll have an offer for a PO position with the Sheriffs Office. I'd literally see about a 30% increase in pay, which would really help me pay off my credit card, and car loan (which are my top two financial priorities right now)... I'm soo glad my credit card isn't 20% or higher like most people... mine is only 13.9%.

derickveliz2

03-25-2010, 05:08 PM

Put the seat-belts back in place, trim panels, rear seat and every thing is tight and snug very tight , the 1/4 Foam helps to keep the panels quiet and hopefully rattle free.

Next... the Extruded Butyl "Rope" in the rear right door...

.

derickveliz2

03-25-2010, 05:11 PM

"talnlnky" I hope your situation gets better. At work we use to be 33 employees, now we are down to 5, and still holding on. There is no work out there, we are architects with 40 active projects every month; now we are working in only 1 project.

Be positive!

derickveliz2

03-25-2010, 05:15 PM

I added some of this Rope! to the door and WOW!!! works really good, now we are ready for the Vinyl and Foam.

Here are some shots...

.

derickveliz2

03-25-2010, 05:23 PM

I got one more sample for the Dash Mat. (Black Ltd.)

My conclusion is that I'm going to get the Black Original Mat, Why?... because there is no Glare compare to the other Limited version. The fist photo was taken with a UV filter and it's easy to see the glare that comes from the Ltd. It feels really good in your hands but I think the Classic / Original Mat will work better. Besides a 2 year warranty against a life time warranty of the Original Mat.

... Also when I put my sun glasses the classic Mat looks much better.

.

derickveliz2

03-25-2010, 05:26 PM

Those lids look good mang...

Thanks! :thumbup:

I love them! :wink:

derickveliz2

03-26-2010, 03:12 AM

I'm done with the rear right door! The plan I made was a perfect fit. I'll share photos later during the day.

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz 2 A.M. Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

derickveliz2

03-26-2010, 01:32 PM

.
The first picture shows my template and the trim panel.

2nd picture shows door with vapor barrier ready to mount the Vinyl.

3rd picture Vinyl on door (I used 2 Industrial Strength Velcros to hold it in place and play around for adjustments).

4th picture shows a layer of 1/8 Foam on top of the Vinyl (no way I could get 1/4 Foam in there everything is so tight, I also added some little pieces of 1/8 Foam under the Vinyl against the wires, just in case)

And the last photo shows the trim panel and you see those pieces of foam that come in the panel? I had to shave them, I actually shave them even more after a few adjustments.

The trim panel snapped really nice, the difference is like Black and White, I wish there was a way for me to show you guys how good it is.

I bet my wife is going to ask me to do the same to her car! Jeje.

:w00t:

.

derickveliz2

03-26-2010, 04:01 PM

Here is a video clip I made with a regular digital camera testing the rear doors, The one on the right side of the car is the one I just finished treating, this is an "open close" test follow by a "knock knock" test.

Also 2 Audio Graphics of the same video. The first one shows "open and close" test the second one it's the "knock knock" test.

The difference is a lot more in real person. But on the effort to share my experience this is what I can post. I hope it helps other Yaris enthusiasts.

On the other way I feel that I'm working too much on this, because after all these efforts making my car "less loud" I'm going to want to be "Louder" with music. lol :thumbup:

LINK FOR VIDEO (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xogcE8Da448)

...

sqcomp

03-27-2010, 12:17 AM

There it is! We have documented proof that deadening works. We all know it does...but now there's a graphical representation.

swidd

03-27-2010, 10:53 AM

Does it have a scale so you can say "I lowered my door slamming sound 6 decibel"?

derickveliz2

03-27-2010, 11:42 AM

I'll dig in on Monday, the software its a free trial I got randomly on line.

Interesting...

Derick

cast

03-27-2010, 05:38 PM

Well done! it looks very professional.
btw, you didn't cover your speakers,did you? ;)

.
The first picture shows my template and the trim panel.

2nd picture shows door with vapor barrier ready to mount the Vinyl.

3rd picture Vinyl on door (I used 2 Industrial Strength Velcros to hold it in place and play around for adjustments).

4th picture shows a layer of 1/8 Foam on top of the Vinyl (no way I could get 1/4 Foam in there everything is so tight, I also added some little pieces of 1/8 Foam under the Vinyl against the wires, just in case)

And the last photo shows the trim panel and you see those pieces of foam that come in the panel? I had to shave them, I actually shave them even more after a few adjustments.

The trim panel snapped really nice, the difference is like Black and White, I wish there was a way for me to show you guys how good it is.

I bet my wife is going to ask me to do the same to her car! Jeje.

:w00t:

.

derickveliz2

03-28-2010, 01:02 AM

Well done! it looks very professional.
btw, you didn't cover your speakers,did you? ;)

Thanks a lot, we'll try keep up the good work.

Don't worry my Sedan's rear doors have no speakers, (I didn't cover them).

Alien Mantis

03-28-2010, 08:31 PM

There it is! We have documented proof that deadening works. We all know it does...but now there's a graphical representation.

.

:biggrin:

.

derickveliz2

03-29-2010, 02:53 PM

Does it have a scale so you can say "I lowered my door slamming sound 6 decibel"?

Not slamming of the doors...

But knocking on the doors there is a good 3db in between the treated and untreated door.

I hope this helps I'm not an acoustical engineering but this is how I read the graphic adding a scale with db. What I can assure you is that now the treated door feels like a Luxury car, it's a very nice feeling. I can't wait to do the other 3 doors.

I didn't do anything over the weekend, I spent most of my time with family doing the garden :thumbup:

D.

derickveliz2

03-29-2010, 05:32 PM

Help!

I'm a Taco-Yaris and I still have most of electronics that I had in my Tacoma, but since I can't install my fancy receiver...

I would like to know and this goes to all the gurus out there... what kind of "electronic" (Factory Sound Processor) should or would I need to plug in my set up, since my radio has no RCA output I have to get some thing to connect my Eq and amps, "what would you recommend me", my radio is going to be the OEM and I have:

Poineer EQ-6500 LINK (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Support/CarAudioVideo/Accessories/AV-Components/ci.EQ-6500.Support)
9-band equalizer includes a crossover network and a subwoofer output

Premier amp for Front and Rear speakers: GM-X1024 LINK (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/Other/GM-X1024?tab=B)
4 ch: (4 Ohm) 65Wx4

Premier amp for Subwoofer: PRS-X720 LINK (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/Other/PRS-X720?tab=B)
1 ch: (4 Ohm) 400Wx1

Thank you.
D.

talnlnky

03-29-2010, 07:42 PM

unless that EQ has high level inputs you'll need a LOC to convert a high voltage signal to a low voltage signal. There are many out there... SQ swears by one by MTX/Scoshe, RF, JL, AudioControl also make units.... and then some of the cheaper companies make them too... some amps have them built in... and there is a dude named Navone who make and sells them online (his are supposed to be top notch).

The dual 8's you see in the pic on my sig are actually connected to an amp which has a built in LOC, and then connected to the stock deck... I dislike the setup.. its not as natural as just having a real deck installed... but it's the best I can currently have without doing a ton of work, that I just don't have the time/money/tools or shop for right now.

derickveliz2

03-30-2010, 12:42 AM

So do you think something like these would work OK?

"Speaker Level Converter w/ 80 watt max"

http://images.bizrate.com/resize?sq=220&uid=7580639

:iono: :iono: :iono: :iono: :iono:

.or MTX re-Q5

http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/29897/main/req5.jpg

.or JL Audio CL441dsp CleanSweep
http://www.dominantcaraudio.com/image_manager/attributes/image/image_3/41095952_9043262_thumbnail.jpg

.
:iono: :iono: :iono: :iono: :iono: :iono: :iono: :iono:

.

sqcomp

03-30-2010, 01:01 AM

I've used the ReQ with great success. I do have one of Navone's LOCs hanging around too...I've never had the need to use it.

The ReQ a no nonsense piece that costs a good bit less than the Clean Sweep.

derickveliz2

03-31-2010, 01:27 PM

:iono:

So I guess one option is to replace the EQ-6500 with MTX re-Q5...

:iono:

.

derickveliz2

03-31-2010, 06:34 PM

Do I really need this:

.:confused: :confused: :confused:

http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/305134/main/c10fm.jpg

_S7V7N_

03-31-2010, 09:59 PM

It's your personal preference on caps, some people will say they're worthless other will swear by them. How big of an amp do you plan on running ? If you look around hard enough you can get a Kinetic 600 car battery for under 100 bucks. Deff upgrade your battery cables in the front " big 3 Upgrade " If you're scared to do the whole upgrade, the ground connections aren't hard at all and will make a fairly decent and noticeable impact. You can probably find the pieces of wire you need fairly cheap, they say to go with 0 Gauge, a good quality 4 gauge will get the job done.

derickveliz2

04-01-2010, 11:28 AM

How big of an amp do you plan on running ? Deff upgrade your battery cables in the front " big 3 Upgrade "

For speakers:
GM-X1024 65Wx4
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pio/pe/vgn/images/portal/cit_3442/33371gm-x1024.jpg

For Woofer(s):
PRS-X720 400Wx1
http://www.pioneer.nl/images/products/cardsp/pioneer/1011798137516prs-x720_detailpage.jpg

Where can I find more information about "Big 3 Upgrade"?

Thank you,

D.

_S7V7N_

04-01-2010, 12:52 PM

Video tutorial

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee171/dark_mess1ah/Yaris%20Install/th_CarAudio101-TheBig3Tutorial.jpg (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee171/dark_mess1ah/Yaris%20Install/?action=view&current=CarAudio101-TheBig3Tutorial.flv)

or you can go here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82xRzCr-lc

derickveliz2

04-01-2010, 12:55 PM

Video tutorial

Where do I get this stuff, are there any kits available?

Thanks
:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

04-01-2010, 12:58 PM

I'm sorry for all my naive questions... :iono: I'm learning every day something new.

In other hand I'm trying to kill time so sqcomp comes back to the US and continues on his installation, and then I can learn even more!

Thanks

_S7V7N_

04-01-2010, 01:13 PM

Dude you can make your own with some wire and some ring terminals, The only thing that may be hard to find is a fuse holder. And bro i'm learning as well.

Palmer812

04-01-2010, 03:23 PM

As far as the " Big 3" is concerned check with your local stereo shop. We keep boxes of scrap wire and I always give away small pieces for free. Then you can just buy the ring terminals and be done. As far as capacitors go I am not a big fan.My last big system had a JL 1000/1 and JL 450/4 and had no cap just an Optima red top battery and 1/0 power wire and the big 3 done. If your electrical system is starving a cap will feed your amplifier(s) but the rest of your car is still straining. Spend the money and get a good battery that will feed the whole car. You don't need a JL Clean sweep or MTX re-q etc. if you are using the Pioneer eq. You just need a basic line output converter. A $20 will do just fine.

sqcomp

04-01-2010, 03:48 PM

Hey Palmer...

Are you forgeting something about the factory source? What about the factory EQ settings coming from the source that kills the bass at higher volume levels. The ReQ solves that issue without a more expensive in dash EQ that STILL needs the LOC to work.

Keep it simple, the ReQ is the most simple out of the choices.

I base this on my own experience most recently with a Tacoma. I put a system in my wife's Tacoma over Christmas R&R at the shop. She kept the factory source, we used a ReQ, and fed that into an ASA 700.5 amplifier. Simple. No need for an outboard EQ. This ReQ was very plug and play.

Also, I'm thinking that you can probably use the smaller ReQ. Just pass the lows out to the sub amp...

That should also save some more money as well.

Another note, The cap will feed the system for a split second...then the alternator strains running all out trying to "feed" the battery AND the capacitor. The battery will be the one pushing the system if your alternator can't feed everything. Also note that caps do recover fairly quickly but...think about it, the caps still present a load to the alternator. While the cap feeds the peaks the alternator is giving it's all more often since it has the extra load to feed.

derickveliz2

04-01-2010, 04:24 PM

Thanks a lot, every post counts in my data knowledge, it's incredible how one little thing gets bigger and bigger everyday, at the beginning I just wanted to add a small amplified woofer in the trunk, like a 6" Bazooka tube or similar.

.

derickveliz2

04-01-2010, 04:44 PM

For Lunch I went out and work on my car, Yeah! it was not raining!!! after 3 days of continues rain the Sun is out so... I took the rear left door trim panel off, add CLD Tiles and Butyl Rope... Wow! the second door was so easy compare to the first one and I did it very FAST!

The door is ready for MLV and CCF, I hope I can get that done tonight.

.
:thumbup:

.

swidd

04-04-2010, 01:53 PM

I finished deadening the front floor, and I could not believe what I saw.... under the passenger side foot area, there are tiny open holes right down to the asphalt, covered only by the thin carpet. No wonder its noisy.

Palmer812

04-04-2010, 02:31 PM

^ WTH!!! That doesn't sound right.

sqcomp

04-04-2010, 02:44 PM

I'll second that one. I've stripped mine down and I never got that. Pics please!

talnlnky

04-04-2010, 02:45 PM

dealer forgot to put in the rubber plugs when you bought the car. cars are shipped with the plugs out, the dealer has to put them in place upon delivery.... sometimes dealers forget. You're not the first... and I doubt the last.

swidd

04-04-2010, 06:31 PM

Sorry I didn't take pics, and its too late now... layers of rubber mat and four layers of interior carpet covering it. Now its quiet, like a Mercedes. I can barely hear the engine, and can't really distinguish between low RPM and high RPM. While just out on a drive, I noticed I kept it in high gears until the engine was struggling... I just didn't notice speed or engine sound any more. NICE!!!

derickveliz2

04-05-2010, 12:12 PM

derickveliz2

04-05-2010, 01:47 PM

Ok, I got my self in trouble, we got a playset for my son, and there are 5 big boxes siting in my garage, I MUST build this playset FAST so I can keep working with my car... :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
.
:iono:
http://bestbabyofferz.com/images/Swing-n-Slide%20PB%208243%20-%20Chesapeake%20Complete%20Wood%20Playset.jpg
:iono:

:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

I'll do everything for my FAMILY :thumbup:

.

swidd

04-05-2010, 01:55 PM

Well it all looks like stock, now that I put it all together again. I'll take some pics once I get the amplifier in a few days. It will also look stock/stealth.

I'm very happy with the Yaris now. Completely quiet, all I can hear while driving is the sound of the wind against the windshield, and even that's pretty silent. The tire noise from driving on old rugged asphalt doesn't make it into the cabin at all (or my hearing is fading with age).

Its so quiet that the only annoyances that remain, is the sound coming from my key chain vibrating gently... and a new rattle from the rear middle seat belt assembly. I tried to make it shut up, but something internal to the seat belt roller is resonating, making rattle. I covered it in bed sheets and such, so the sound doesn't really go anywhere.

derickveliz2

04-05-2010, 02:03 PM

Well it all looks like stock, now that I put it all together again. I'll take some pics once I get the amplifier in a few days. It will also look stock/stealth.

Cool, where are you going to install your amp?

.
:thumbsup:

sqcomp

04-05-2010, 02:16 PM

Don't you love that? The only real sounds that "bother" you are the really small ones! For me, it's the dome light (that will be taken care of in a few weeks).

swidd

04-05-2010, 02:16 PM

Under my right front seat. Already have all the wires routed in there under the carpet.

And its on its way!! (http://wwwapps.ups.com/WebTracking/processRequest?HTMLVersion=5.0&Requester=NES&AgreeToTermsAndConditions=yes&loc=en_US&tracknum=1Z5FW6760390862376)

swidd

04-05-2010, 02:20 PM

When I took down my dome light, I noticed there were two plastic pieces on each side of the bulb. Didn't quite understand what function they served. One of the pieces were loose when I opened it. Have you tried just popping off the cover? Or is the rattle rooted deeper up in there?

sqcomp

04-05-2010, 02:34 PM

I haven't touched the headliner just yet. I didn't have enough time before they shipped me off to Iraq.

I'll be handling that in two weeks after my return home. As soon as that headliner is dropped, the dash mounting for the P-01 and wiring to the amplifiers happen. We're still trying to decide which amplifiers to use. Image Dynamics Qs or Audison SRx or LRx...

derickveliz2

04-05-2010, 03:18 PM

.

I love www.Yarisworld.com !!!

.

swidd

04-05-2010, 03:30 PM

Oh, I noticed my side mirrors vibrating when playing loud. I'm going to put sound damping material behind the mirrors. It should be easy.

derickveliz2

04-05-2010, 03:33 PM

Oh, I noticed my side mirrors vibrating when playing loud. I'm going to put sound damping material behind the mirrors. It should be easy.

Great idea, please take pictures...

D.

cast

04-05-2010, 09:30 PM

You've got this result by only deadening the floor? Did you deaden the doors?

Thanks.

Well it all looks like stock, now that I put it all together again. I'll take some pics once I get the amplifier in a few days. It will also look stock/stealth.

I'm very happy with the Yaris now. Completely quiet, all I can hear while driving is the sound of the wind against the windshield, and even that's pretty silent. The tire noise from driving on old rugged asphalt doesn't make it into the cabin at all (or my hearing is fading with age).

Its so quiet that the only annoyances that remain, is the sound coming from my key chain vibrating gently... and a new rattle from the rear middle seat belt assembly. I tried to make it shut up, but something internal to the seat belt roller is resonating, making rattle. I covered it in bed sheets and such, so the sound doesn't really go anywhere.

swidd

04-06-2010, 09:34 AM

In short, I deadened everything except the ceiling. Everything was very easy to get to, once I took the seats out.

Approximately sorted by the most effective/giving greatest immediate result:
Doors (huge difference)
Side walls next to rear seats. (large surface of sheet metal)
Lower trunk area below the spare tire. This has thin sheet metal that vibrates.
Floors below and in front of foot area (including wheel wells, made a huge difference in engine sound)
Hatch (foam)
Rear wheel wells (deadener)
Rear floor under rear seats and foot area (this area has fairly solid metal and no thin sheet metal that vibrates, no big effect).
Center gear shifter area has some open sheet metal that vibrates quite a bit, helps to cover this.

swidd

04-06-2010, 09:45 AM

50 sq ft B-Quiet $134
50 sq ft e-Dead $65
Interior carpet roll $10 at Kmart, $15 at Auto Zone (exact same roll)

e-dead is not near as good as B-Quiet. B-Quiet is better than Dynamat.

All in all very cheap DIY to create comfort.

derickveliz2

04-06-2010, 10:34 AM

derickveliz2

04-06-2010, 10:38 AM

50 sq ft B-Quiet $134
50 sq ft e-Dead $65

That is about 100 SF, I got 67.5 ft² of MLV, and I'm running low for the floor and firewall, I just ordered another 25 SF, with a total of about 92 SF, so it's about right what it needs to cover a Yaris Sedan.

:w00t:

.

derickveliz2

04-06-2010, 12:02 PM

I'm sorry if I'm been so naive here, what would be the best orientation for tweeters from the images below...

Thank you!

.

sqcomp

04-06-2010, 12:16 PM

That depends on your axis response of the tweeters. Personally, either of those two, I'd probably do the first one. But you really have to hear the results to decide the aiming.

Where are your mids, in the doors? What is your crossover slope and frequency at?

Yeah! Dynamat sucks compared to B-Quiet! http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-rolleyes010.gif

_S7V7N_

04-06-2010, 12:28 PM

I have mine like the one's shown in example B , I'm fixin to remount them flat to see what type of result i can get.

cast

04-06-2010, 01:25 PM

Thanks for the infor.

Did you use any rubber mat or mass loaded vinyl to cover the floor?

50 sq ft B-Quiet $134
50 sq ft e-Dead $65
Interior carpet roll $10 at Kmart, $15 at Auto Zone (exact same roll)

e-dead is not near as good as B-Quiet. B-Quiet is better than Dynamat.

All in all very cheap DIY to create comfort.

swidd

04-06-2010, 01:46 PM

That is about 100 SF, I got 67.5 ft² of MLV, and I'm running low for the floor and firewall, I just ordered another 25 SF, with a total of about 92 SF, so it's about right what it needs to cover a Yaris Sedan.

:w00t:

.

Yep. I've got 3 sq ft left, that I'm saving for the mirror, and whatever else begins to vibrate once I get some SPL... license plate maybe. So yeah, 97 sq ft in the car. Its only ~28 lbs... about the weight of the spare wheel, half of the back seat or the weight I lost in the gym in the past few months. :bellyroll:

I hear your call for pictures, but it all looks stock. I like the way the Yaris looks!! I made a little video instead, but like I said, it doesn't show anything because I put it all together again. I'll keep in mind to take pictures if I disassemble something in the future... :smile:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFzLHZN85Rc

swidd

04-06-2010, 01:53 PM

Thanks for the infor.

Did you use any rubber mat or mass loaded vinyl to cover the floor?

B-Quiet on the floor and lower front firewall... Rubber butyl mat with aluminum foil backing. Very effective, and very easy to work with. A single layer was plenty of added mass on most places.

The cheapest material out there, eDead_45, was not near as effective (if much at all...), the glue was not 'permanent', very minimum mass. It was too thin. But it was extremely clean and easy to apply, and being super cheap, I used it for double and triple layers in the trunk and under the rear seats (large horizontal surfaces).

cast

04-06-2010, 02:56 PM

How did you deaden the doors? I assume that you used B-Quiet? Did you use other material?

B-Quiet on the floor and lower front firewall... Rubber butyl mat with aluminum foil backing. Very effective, and very easy to work with. A single layer was plenty of added mass on most places.

The cheapest material out there, eDead_45, was not near as effective (if much at all...), the glue was not 'permanent', very minimum mass. It was too thin. But it was extremely clean and easy to apply, and being super cheap, I used it for double and triple layers in the trunk and under the rear seats (large horizontal surfaces).

derickveliz2

04-06-2010, 03:07 PM

That depends on your axis response of the tweeters. Personally, either of those two, I'd probably do the first one. But you really have to hear the results to decide the aiming.

OK, I'm going to put everything together before installing Tweeters! and test them

Where are your mids, in the doors?

YES!

What is your crossover slope and frequency at?

OK, I'm clue less here, how do I found this out, I got the same components as _SeVeN_ (HIFONICS ZXi6.5C ZEUS 6.5") http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26407

.
:iono: :iono: :iono: :iono:

.Thanks

derickveliz2

04-06-2010, 03:15 PM

swidd...

What kind of rubberized coating did you use in your wheel wells and how did you do it?

Thanks

.

swidd

04-06-2010, 03:19 PM

How did you deaden the doors? I assume that you used B-Quiet? Did you use other material?

Yep. B-Quiet, about 15 sq ft per door, double layers in the middle/most vibrating areas. Then I stuffed closed cell foam mattress material in the bottom, behind the speaker, and generally all around. And that was it.

I did not do anything to replace the moisture barrier, because when I opened the door I did not see any evidence of water having ever leaked in there. It was all clean and dry. - After 62,000 miles with harsh winter weather!

I also didn't do anything with the plastic door panel itself, other than replacing broken clips/fasteners with new ones (box of 30 cost $15 in a local upholstery store). The plastic didn't seem to vibrate when I had sound coming out of the door speaker.

swidd

04-06-2010, 04:15 PM

Uh, $5 bottle of 3M rubberized undercoating spray from Walmart. Tried to spray it myself, but it got real messy, so I took it to one of those drive thru oil change places, bought a tire rotation, and asked if I could apply the rubber coating while they had the tires off. Instead they did the spraying for me, I kept my hands clean, and then I didn't have any cash to tip them.:evil:

derickveliz2

04-06-2010, 04:29 PM

Uh, $5 bottle of 3M rubberized undercoating spray from Walmart.

Cool! :w00t:

I'm thinking of Spectrum sludge (http://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadener/spectrum-sludge.php)

Not cheap, but still going to dig in and learn more of it's properties and pros & cons; Spectrum Sludge is from Second Skin Audio.

BTW, I started building my son's playset...

This is not going to be easy :cry:

.

swidd

04-06-2010, 04:56 PM

cast

04-06-2010, 05:23 PM

Great. I just got all my sound deadening stuff shipped last week. Thanks for the tips.

Yep. B-Quiet, about 15 sq ft per door, double layers in the middle/most vibrating areas. Then I stuffed closed cell foam mattress material in the bottom, behind the speaker, and generally all around. And that was it.

I did not do anything to replace the moisture barrier, because when I opened the door I did not see any evidence of water having ever leaked in there. It was all clean and dry. - After 62,000 miles with harsh winter weather!

I also didn't do anything with the plastic door panel itself, other than replacing broken clips/fasteners with new ones (box of 30 cost $15 in a local upholstery store). The plastic didn't seem to vibrate when I had sound coming out of the door speaker.

swidd

04-06-2010, 07:33 PM

Look forward to it! I just slipped in the Alpine PDX-5 into the wire mess, and wholla, awesome sound! CYA!

talnlnky

04-06-2010, 08:05 PM

I did the undercoating way back before much else, and did not notice much improvement if any.

It did make the wheel wells look better though. All black and deep, hiding the cheap plastic and thin metal... But it wears off after a while.

go with Duplicolor brand... better quality. Mine is still going strong after 45,000 miles & 2.25years. I've spent probably 1,000 of those miles on dirt/gravel roads too.

if you want both looks & sound improvements... you gotta go with one of the paint on/spray on sound deadeners that comes in 5 gallon buckets for example the second skin spectrum. Everything else either won't put on enough mass, or doesn't cure hard enough.

With the duplicor brand spray can stuff (I think $8 a can) I only notice a reduction when comparing a rock flying off my tire into the wheel well at highway speeds... I notice it is slightly muffled compared to when the well was naked (pre-coating).

derickveliz2

04-07-2010, 10:44 AM

Great. I just got all my sound deadening stuff shipped last week. Thanks for the tips.

Good, what did you get?

D.

derickveliz2

04-07-2010, 06:40 PM

Well I manage to take a break at Lunch and finished the rear left door. Everything was so fast! compare to the first door.

I started with the front right door, here are some shots!..

.

derickveliz2

04-09-2010, 10:58 AM

Ok, I'm almost done with this other project! need to finish the roof and a climbing wall and I'll be all set, to continue working on my car.

:thumbup: "FAMILY FIRST" :thumbup:

.

ezhacker1

04-09-2010, 05:24 PM

i did 50 ft of edead 45, that got out most rattle made the doors sound much more solid when closing. I do have rattling when sub goes but i honestly dont care as long as i cant hear it inside. The thing i do care about is the front speakers being about as loud on the outside as inside. How would i go about keeping sound inside, those foam things? If all else fails i would just put speakers in the side air vents seeing they point at me, i would get the most sound per volume setting.

derickveliz2

04-09-2010, 05:31 PM

The thing i do care about is the front speakers being about as loud on the outside as inside. How would i go about keeping sound inside, those foam things?.

Some where I read... "MLV keeps the noise out and the music in"

I'll let you know once I get my system running.

D.

ezhacker1

04-09-2010, 05:38 PM

Some where I read... "MLV keeps the noise out and the music in"

I'll let you know once I get my system running.

D.

thanks. Everytime i roll up to a stop light or in traffic, i tend to turn my music down and its not even loud just its as sound outside as it is inside. Im paranoid like that dont want to disturb people with my awesome Eurobeat collection

btw, Eurobeat is pure JDM :headbang:

talnlnky

04-09-2010, 08:09 PM

thanks. Everytime i roll up to a stop light or in traffic, i tend to turn my music down and its not even loud just its as sound outside as it is inside. Im paranoid like that dont want to disturb people with my awesome Eurobeat collection

btw, Eurobeat is pure JDM :headbang:

A layer of mat all over the inside of the door will help a lot. It'll dampen most of the midrange and midbass tones. You'll still hear the treble/vocals fairly well tho.

The best option if you don't want any sound to exit the car is to make fiberglass kickpods to install your speakers by your feet. It has the added benefit of allowing you to aim your speakers for better SQ too.

In my mazda I had it so that you could have music at about 130dB on the inside, and barely hear it outside of the car... if I cranked it much more then the bass finally would overcome the amount of mat I had... but even then, it wasn't nasty rattle like most people's cars do.

ezhacker1

04-10-2010, 04:05 AM

I probably look into what i can fit in the side air vents, or maybe the middle vent which i deem pretty useless for aiming air.

derickveliz2

04-12-2010, 01:38 AM

Ok, I've been reading and reading all about car audio and passive and active crossovers, and I think I'm getting an idea, thanks to sqcomp and talnlnky for all your help and information. This website it's a very good source of information: http://www.bcae1.com/

I'm done with my son's playset so this week I'm going back to my project.

I'll post some ideas of my audio set up and progress with the deadening process.

Thanks YarisWorld.com!

D.

sqcomp

04-12-2010, 02:19 AM

That's what this forum is all about mang! I'd like to hear your ideas...

derickveliz2

04-12-2010, 12:49 PM

After some reading I realize that using an active crossover is the way to go, I'm heading a little bit towards sound quality here, and by doing so I think I'm going to loose my rear speakers, (this is for a good staging, I assume).

I'm OPEN to any suggestions here, this is my plan, if you feel like suggesting a better way or proper way my ears are wide open, I'm here to learn and to accomplish as much as possible, there are some variables like things that I already have, but the more input we get the better.

Thank you,

D.

_S7V7N_

04-12-2010, 01:31 PM

What rms are them solobarics rated at ? and have you checked the airspace they'll require ?

derickveliz2

04-12-2010, 01:47 PM

What rms are them solobarics rated at ? and have you checked the airspace they'll require ?

Each is 350 RMS when installed in 0.66 cubic enclosure, I had these puppies in my truck and the box fits inside the Yaris trunk, so it's an easy drop install if I'm lazy. LINK-SOLO-BARIC Manual (http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/SolodMan.pdf)

D.

_S7V7N_

04-12-2010, 01:52 PM

Wow, i thought they'd ask for more space, that's not bad at all. Install looks well thought out.

sqcomp

04-13-2010, 11:10 AM

derickveliz2

04-13-2010, 11:42 AM

Are those new solos? That looks suprisingly like my old Solo D series rounds...

I love those old round D series subs. I had two 15"s of two ZR360s ten years back. Fun times.

As for criticism of the layout? Meh, I'd say the weak part is going to be the Pioneer EQ. I understand then need though. I'd say do as much tweaking with the amplifiers and the ReQ as possible before installing that.

Yes! they are the old round D series, they used to sound/feel very good, not as low as I would like, and since I already have them I guess I'll use them for now.

I agree with you about the Pionneer EQ, should I be looking for other kind, brand, new, EQ? any suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks!

D.

derickveliz2

04-13-2010, 11:58 AM

I went to bed last night at 4 o'clock in the morning...

My car had a terrible noise coming from the front bumper, last year a lady hit my car in a parking lot (backing up) the lower grill broke and in the last couple of weeks I found out that the custom Grill came off on one side.

I started at 10pm and end up at 4am, no more rattles every time I close the doors. Since I took the bumper off and fixed it, I installed a pair of Hella Super Horns.

I'll show pictures later. I was very tempted to put some deadening on top of the plastic wells, I couldn't resist and did put a little strip, I'm sure it's not really going to help.

D.

derickveliz2

04-13-2010, 01:04 PM

As for criticism of the layout? Meh, I'd say the weak part is going to be the Pioneer EQ.

Would this "FOUR.1" Would be a good option?

LINK (http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_161FOURP1/AudioControl-FOUR-1.html?search=four.1&ssi=0)

Thanks

Derick

sqcomp

04-13-2010, 03:28 PM

Perhaps...

I still think you should adjust and then plug in another component if you need to.

derickveliz2

04-13-2010, 03:37 PM

Perhaps...

I still think you should adjust and then plug in another component if you need to.

Thanks, I'll do that.

2 days left right?

D.

talnlnky

04-13-2010, 05:48 PM

I'm all for the EQ boner and such... but before you go out and spend $200 or more dollars on eq's you may or may not use... install your parts, then add one piece of signal processing at a time. Tweak with it as much you can over the course of a week or two, then evaluate if you want more tweaking capability.

remember that your signal quality is technically going to go down with each component you put in the signal chain before the speaker. A single processor like an eq is good, but if you start adding all kinds of goodies like dash eq, trunk eq, line boosters, active crossovers and so on.... you're just getting away from KISS, and that is rarely good.

I'm sure the four.1 is a fun toy....and if given one, would install it in a minute. I just wish it had more like 7bands, or... say 4 bands, but all in the 35-200hz range, so I could dial in the sub/midbass perfectly from song to song very quickly while driving.

derickveliz2

04-14-2010, 03:04 AM

sqcomp

04-14-2010, 08:58 AM

The 20th is supposed to be our final day.

Then I get on the horse to install my system. I'll probably release tutorials as I'm going along. Hopefully I can have the install complete within several weeks. I've got NOTHING else to do since I don't have to go to work for 90 days...

derickveliz2

04-14-2010, 10:33 AM

The 20th is supposed to be our final day.. I've got NOTHING else to do since I don't have to go to work for 90 days...

Awesome!

Looking forward to see a professional perform.

Thanks

D.

derickveliz2

04-15-2010, 12:46 PM

I removed the OEM front right speaker, I read somewhere that you have to use a drill, I started with a small bit, didn't work so I use a bigger one.

I can't believe how light they are, here is a picture next to the new ones. I'm going to try to use the OEM spacer to install the new speakers, we'll see if it works.

Also I was looking for a water resistant sound absorbent material to put inside the front doors to help with the acoustics of the speaker (remember the door becomes a speaker box) so I found this "Funnoodle" thing on sale for $2, cut in half; see picture

The other pictures show CDL Tiles and some Raammat. Just by taking care of the resonance on the door outer and inner skin, I can tell that there is a big difference in noise level coming from the naked door.

D.
:thumbsup:

talnlnky

04-15-2010, 05:31 PM

derickveliz2

04-15-2010, 05:39 PM

keep in mind that the size of a magnet does not matter on how good a speaker is. Common misconception. Furthermore, it doesn't even tell you the strength of the motor... the way that the voice coil is wound and the height of the top & bottom plates have more of an effect on the motor's strength than the size of the magnet.

Some thing funny happened to me...

I had in my Tacoma a pair of (Pioneer) Premier 6.5 component speakers (not cheap) and guess what? I end up putting back the OEM speakers because they sound much better than the premier, although the OEM speakers from the Tacoma are much better quality than the ones I found in my Yaris.

I didn't know that the Zeus came with a blue LED inside! I'm going to have to play with that!

D.

derickveliz2

04-15-2010, 06:23 PM

At Lunch I went for the right front seat, I was really scared about taking it off, I read in another thread people having problems but it was a piece of cake! took me no more than 10 minutes!

BTW, mean while I was over there I took the glove compartment off just to realize that there was no CABIN AIR FILTER, I did a small search here in YarisWold and found out that it's common. But I got so mad I wrote down an email to the dealer! and I got a stupid answer and at the end I got my self a free Cabin Air Filter. here are the emails...

__________________________________________________ ____________
I can't believe I got a new Toyota from you, and I just found out it came without a cabin air filter, that is a shame.

Thank you,
Derick Veliz
__________________________________________________ _____________

Hi this is Bill from Boch Toyota
I called Toyota to try and get an answer for you about the cabin air filter On the Toyota Yaris.
The only thing they could tell me is that due to the small volume of interior space the cabin filter does not work the same as in bigger interior cars, so Toyota decided not to install them, but if the customer really wants one we can try and fit the corolla cabin filter and tray. The part sells for around $27.00 plus tax
Plus the installation. I hope this answers you’re question.

__________________________________________________ ____________________

That is not a Toyota answer, please. I also have a corolla and a tacoma and let me tell you that the interior space of my corolla is almost the same as the Yaris.

the manual states you shouldn't operate the a/c without it

p/n 87139-YZZ08

Thank you,
Derick Veliz

__________________________________________________ _____________

Hi this is Bill from Boch Toyota parts again as previously stated I was passing the information Toyota gave me to you.
But I can say that if you feel you really want the cabin filter installed you are more than welcome to bring in you’re yaris and we will try and see if any of the other filters fit at no charge to you for the first filter and installation.

I know this has been discussed before but just wanted to share with you.

Thanks

D.
:thumbsup:

talnlnky

04-15-2010, 06:41 PM

Some thing funny happened to me...

I had in my Tacoma a pair of (Pioneer) Premier 6.5 component speakers (not cheap) and guess what? I end up putting back the OEM speakers because they sound much better than the premier, although the OEM speakers from the Tacoma are much better quality than the ones I found in my Yaris.

I didn't know that the Zeus came with a blue LED inside! I'm going to have to play with that!

D.
I would guess the pioneers have a metalic tweet (and lack a good crossover), which may sound a bit harsh, along with a much higher BL on the mid which might (depending on the other T/S specs) lead the an early/fast roll off on the frequency response (for midbass) compared to the oem units. The OEM units are designed to have somewhat weak motor (Bl) and a very slow roll off. They also usually lack a dedicated tweet which gives a much more laid back and anemic sound which isn't desirable, but at least it doesn't make you cringe everytime you hear a cymbal crash.

yeah, you don't get an air filter unless you ask for one... and really... its actually easy enough that i'd tell everybody to replace it themself. I've made my own using giant 3M Filtrete Home Filters, 25,000 miles later and still no problems. You get multiple filters for around $15 that way... if you buy the filters designed for it I believe you pay around $10 a pop at least, and thats for a non-toyota brand.

I actually have been thinking about changing my filter for the past week. I'll probably do it the same day I change my oil filter (doing 10k oil intervals now, with 5k oil filter intervals)

derickveliz2

04-15-2010, 06:57 PM

I would guess the pioneers have a metalic tweet (and lack a good crossover), which may sound a bit harsh, along with a much higher BL on the mid which might (depending on the other T/S specs) lead the an early/fast roll off on the frequency response (for midbass) compared to the oem units. The OEM units are designed to have somewhat weak motor (Bl) and a very slow roll off. They also usually lack a dedicated tweet which gives a much more laid back and anemic sound which isn't desirable, but at least it doesn't make you cringe everytime you hear a cymbal crash.

The Premier tweeters sound great! not so bad passive crossover, it was the 6.5 drive that was not handling the mid-low frequencies.

Thanks, I learn so much every day even if I only understand half of it! :bow:. :w00t:

Alien Mantis

04-15-2010, 08:32 PM

I'll probably do it the same day I change my oil filter (doing 10k oil intervals now, with 5k oil filter intervals)

Don't take this the wrong way, but 10k oil interval is STUPID.
I don't care if you run a full synthetic.

I've been a mechanic for 25 years.
I've seen engines destroyed because people let their oil go LESS than 10k.

3-4k TOPS. New filter every oil change.

I change my Yaris oil at 3k intervals. I use Castrol GTX oil.

Oil is cheap, your motor is NOT.
Oil breaks down, and it is a suspension for the by-products of combustion.

I seen factory maintenance literature that says oil changes at 5-6k.
Spark plugs at 100k.

Yeah.... they can stick that up their asses.

:mad:

talnlnky

04-15-2010, 09:46 PM

Don't take this the wrong way, but 10k oil interval is STUPID.
I don't care if you run a full synthetic.

I've been a mechanic for 25 years.
I've seen engines destroyed because people let their oil go LESS than 10k.

3-4k TOPS. New filter every oil change.

I change my Yaris oil at 3k intervals. I use Castrol GTX oil.

Oil is cheap, your motor is NOT.
Oil breaks down, and it is a suspension for the by-products of combustion.

I seen factory maintenance literature that says oil changes at 5-6k.
Spark plugs at 100k.

Yeah.... they can stick that up their asses.

:mad:

got tired of throwing away (recycling) oil that came out the same exact color as when it was poured in. The oil I get is far greater quality than what is needed for 5k. I hear what you say, and have made up my mind, no more is needed to be mentioned about it in this thread... There's no point in debating something that only time... errr... thousands of miles will be able to tell.

next week i'll let you tell me that running 44psi on the tires is stupid too.:biggrin:

Alien Mantis

04-15-2010, 10:03 PM

Yeah, do whatever you wanna do, bro.
It's your engine.

44psi in the tires? Cool. I run 40-44psi in my Yaris tires.
I won't argue with that!

swidd

04-15-2010, 11:10 PM

Uh, I ran 10,000 miles on mobil 1 extended interval synthetic, and it came out clear as new. Sorry for keeping the subject alive - but I only did it out of lazyness, and value opinions against it. Will probably not do it anymore. Altough that oil is very expensive, it is only a few $ more than regular quality synthetic.

derickveliz2

04-15-2010, 11:47 PM

Mmm... I just realized that my Yaris needs new oil and filter.

Thanks

D.

Alien Mantis

04-16-2010, 04:24 AM

I know this is getting off-topic, but it is an important issue.

A new Yaris motor is super efficient.
So it will not contaminate oil as fast as other engines can.

The recommended oil weight is 5w-30.
That is a thin oil straight out of the bottle. As it breaks down, it becomes a 0w.
It may not look all that dark, but it will lose it's viscosity properties.

As I get more miles on my Yaris motor, I will switch to a 10w-30, for extra protection of the metal parts.

Yes, you take a tiny gas mileage hit with thicker oil, but it's worth it to protect the engine.

I also live in a hot climate. In a cold climate, 5w-30 would be fine for the life of the engine.

I have no doubt that good oil in a new/low mileage Yaris engine could easily go 4k miles safely. I would NEVER let it go to 10k.
Anywhere between 3-4k is safe. Under 3k is totally wasting good oil.
I have a friend who changes the oil in his Ford Explorer every 2,000 miles. I told him several times to let it go to 3k. He is paranoid, but his engine is totally clean inside, with 76,000 miles on it.
It certainly won't HURT an engine to change the oil at 2,000 miles.... but the reality is: the global oil reserves are going to be DEPLETED in 15-20 years.
Our world leaders are keeping this a secret, because they don't want a total PANIC.

A world without OIL is a fast approaching reality, and currently we have NO ALTERNATIVE energy source to replace fossil fuels.

Oil fields in the USA will be used strictly for military strategic reserves only.

But alas.... I digress.

sqcomp

04-16-2010, 08:32 AM

Oh...you so silly! You mean I've been over in Iraq for black gold? Say it ain't so! :P

swidd

04-16-2010, 09:25 AM

If you're looking for cheap uranium, you should have invaded Kazakhstan instead.

sqcomp

04-16-2010, 09:51 AM

We got Borat already didn't we?

derickveliz2

04-16-2010, 11:21 AM

The noise increased so much by driving without the glove compartment, no left seat and naked door, I'm using as a reference the numbers of the volume with my HU, before this condition listening to music at volume 10 was no problem 20 was nice and 30 is as good as it gets, after that it just distortion all the way up to 62/max; today 10 was impossible, 20 not enough and 30 was OK but not loud enough to overcome the noise from the road (highway speeds 70mph average).

I should get my new shoes next week, winter tires on OEM wheels will go to storage, I guess noise coming from the snow tires will play a big factor as well.

I need to take the OEM's deadening before I start with the floor with a heat gun, if it gets too messy I'll use dry ice, or last case I'll just leave it there. )o:

D.

talnlnky

04-16-2010, 12:42 PM

derickveliz2

04-16-2010, 03:20 PM

Yeah, I remember putting one or two layers on the console area as well.

:frown: Not there yet, all that area scares me, same for the headliner. :iono:

.

talnlnky

04-16-2010, 05:36 PM

:frown: Not there yet, all that area scares me, same for the headliner. :iono:

.

I've never done a headliner... and don't even know if it's worth my time in the yaris... such a small roof, and it's slightly curved. When it rains, I hear the noise coming from the drops hitting the windshield, not from the roof.

derickveliz2

04-16-2010, 05:43 PM

I've never done a headliner... and don't even know if it's worth my time in the yaris... such a small roof, and it's slightly curved. When it rains, I hear the noise coming from the drops hitting the windshield, not from the roof.

"Sqcomp" is going to do it, I hope he is going to show us how to do it, in my case I would like to do it and I only need to apply a few CLD Tiles to control the resonance of the roof, so I guess I don't have to take it all off, just loose it up on the edges 1 at a time to reach the flat areas of sheet metal and I'll be done.

As I'm writing here I'm building my cabin air filter :thumbup:

.

Alien Mantis

04-16-2010, 06:03 PM

Oh...you so silly! You mean I've been over in Iraq for black gold? Say it ain't so! :P

Ask the BILDERBERGERS.

( just don't expect the truth out of them )

When you join the military, do you not take an OATH to defend the Constitution of the United States from enemies both FOREIGN and DOMESTIC?

Seems like we have lots of "domestic enemies of the Constitution" right here in our own government. They have been there for a long time actually.

( Maybe you guys are shooting at the wrong targets? )

But alas.... I digress yet again.

:mad:

derickveliz2

04-16-2010, 06:15 PM

As I'm writing here I'm building my cabin air filter :thumbup:

Done! 2 new filters in 20 minutes. (most of the time looking for tools and materials ... Yeah!!! :thumbup:

Back to deadening "Tonight" :thumbsup:

.

talnlnky

04-16-2010, 07:26 PM

Done! 2 new filters in 20 minutes. (most of the time looking for tools and materials ... Yeah!!! :thumbup:

Back to deadening "Tonight" :thumbsup:

.
you know.... i really like this thread... and i like your energy too.
What'd you end up using to make your filter?
I changed out my oil filter yesterday... I put it on a lil tight last time (didn't use a wrench, thought it would come off easier). Was amazed at how little oil I lost, I actually didn't need to add anymore oil as the dipstick read I was just barely below the full mark. I'll check it again in a week to make sure it doesn't change.

derickveliz2

04-17-2010, 04:34 AM

you know.... i really like this thread... and i like your energy too.
What'd you end up using to make your filter?

Thanks!
It's 3:23 am and I'm tired, if my wife takes a peak inside my car now, she is going to kill me!

The fire wall its going to be hard, same for the center console, LOTS OF WORK and little time...

For the cabin air filter... I was at work I went to the mechanical room and I saw many boxes of HVAC filters, there was one with a big dent on one side, I cut it to size and then finished with aluminum tape..

Time to go to bed... :redface:

.

derickveliz2

04-19-2010, 10:38 AM

Today's ride was LOUD!!! some thoughts about this stage...

1. I did try heating up the OEM patches and removed with a screw driver, hard I couldn't find my putty knife. I'm really only going to do it on the flat surfaces, then add CLD Tiles.

2. I may kill rear vent, not sure but it may make my HVAC more efficient in front and may make my life easier in this process.

3. Center console, lost of noise from the 5 speed mechanism, I'm going to try to add CCF and some MLV probably it wouldn't hurt to add some kind of grease to smooth all moving parts, we'll see.

4. Today I'm going to try to get my main power wire through Firewall.

5. My wife is concern that I'm driving my car in such conditions, she suggested that I should get it done sooner than later! Yeah!!! I have a big excuse to work more in my car.

I'm guessing that SQcomp it's joining us today, is that right? are you near your Yaris now?

More soon...

D.

.

talnlnky

04-19-2010, 12:40 PM

derickveliz2

04-19-2010, 12:52 PM

Looks like the mail man is bringing my new shoes today!!! (o:

.

derickveliz2

04-19-2010, 12:58 PM

Ok, I found the way through the Firewall! way back behind the glove compartment, I'll use silicone to seal it later.

Next step... I'll take pictures at lunch just for the records...

D.

.

derickveliz2

04-19-2010, 01:45 PM

I know it's a little off topic, but you know they should produce less noise than the snow tires right?

I also need to install 10mm penguin spacers in the back!

If the day would have at least 38 hours :iono: there is so much to do and little time to do it!

D. :thumbup:

.

captaincrunch

04-19-2010, 02:11 PM

Nice. Tires go well too with the red

derickveliz2

04-19-2010, 02:12 PM

Nice. Tires go well too with the red

Thanks :thumbsup:

.

swidd

04-19-2010, 03:14 PM

wow they are cool.

derickveliz2

04-20-2010, 02:33 AM

wow they are cool.

Thanks swidd!

I put more CLD tiles on the floor and fire wall (right side / passengers side)
Some CCF (foam) and a layer of MLV.

There is a lot of work to do...

D.

.

derickveliz2

04-20-2010, 01:19 PM

I put 2 speaker wires for speakers through the right panel to the door, this was very hard, I end up pulling everything out then put it back.

Even with only the center section been covered the noise reduction is very noticeable, I can't wait to finish sealing everything with MLV. Let me tell you something this process is very hard, lots of work and time consuming.

Here are some pictures of the deadening process on the floor...

1st picture CLD Tiles to flat surfaces and openings
2nd picture OEM foam and undercarpet material
3rd picture 1/4 CCF
4th picture MLV

talnlnky

04-20-2010, 05:34 PM

1st picture CLD Tiles to flat surfaces and openings
2nd picture OEM foam and undercarpet material
3rd picture 1/4 CCF
4th picture MLV
interesting.... When I did my floors I did...

Mat
CCF
OEM Foam
(I didn't do vinyl)

I wonder what offers the best result CCF under, or on top of the OEM foam... Probably your way... oh well.

derickveliz2

04-20-2010, 05:55 PM

interesting.... When I did my floors I did...

Mat
CCF
OEM Foam
(I didn't do vinyl)

I wonder what offers the best result CCF under, or on top of the OEM foam... Probably your way... oh well.

Probably it won't make any difference I put the OEM foam first because fits better the lines of the floor.

I'm not using "Mat" as a sound barrier in this case if the metal panels produce any residual resonance after treating it with CLD Tiles, the foam helps as a cushion to stop resonance and increasing the effectiveness of the MLV barrier.

In this picture you can see how I'm holding the MLV to the Fire wall. I'm still going to slide MLV behind the fan and almost all the way up on the Fire wall.

The Vinyl is very effective leaving the noise out, works like magic.

Thanks

D.

.

talnlnky

04-20-2010, 07:24 PM

Probably it won't make any difference I put the OEM foam first because fits better the lines of the floor.

I'm not using "Mat" as a sound barrier in this case if the metal panels produce any residual resonance after treating it with CLD Tiles, the foam helps as a cushion to stop resonance and increasing the effectiveness of the MLV barrier.

In this picture you can see how I'm holding the MLV to the Fire wall. I'm still going to slide MLV behind the fan and almost all the way up on the Fire wall.

The Vinyl is very effective leaving the noise out, works like magic.

Thanks

D.

.
yeah... what you call CLD Tiles I call mat.... back when I started installing sound proofing products they only had spray/paint on stuff, and two different types of absorbing adhesive sheets... one was aluminum backed, the other was not. The non-aluminum stuff you had to use a heatgun during application too. The term CLD tile didn't exist, at least not around car audio.

I might consider adding some of the MLV in the future... I ran out of mat... errr.. CLD's when I was doing my install (only had 125sq ft) and didn't get around to the firewall... Wish I had. I remember looking at it, and putting a few pieces on it... but I could've done a good two layers on the whole firewall. I also remember it looking like it would be a lot of work to get up in there and do the work.

Emerge

04-20-2010, 08:14 PM

This is probably the coolest thread on this site I've seen. How much money do you guess you are saving yourself?

talnlnky

04-20-2010, 09:17 PM

This is probably the coolest thread on this site I've seen. How much money do you guess you are saving yourself?

It's about saving noise.... not money. Funny thing is.... a lot of the time audio shops don't like doing large scale sound deadening jobs like this. They'll do it if you are willing to pay... but installers don't like doing this stuff.. it kills your back from all the bending over, and is time consuming. Installers would much rather you spend the hundreds of dollars on a fiberglass install instead.

derickveliz2

04-21-2010, 12:28 AM

It's about saving noise.... not money. Funny thing is.... a lot of the time audio shops don't like doing large scale sound deadening jobs like this. They'll do it if you are willing to pay... but installers don't like doing this stuff.. it kills your back from all the bending over, and is time consuming. Installers would much rather you spend the hundreds of dollars on a fiberglass install instead.

Emerge:
This is probably the coolest thread on this site I've seen. How much money do you guess you are saving yourself?

I agree, and the biggest satisfaction is the end results, even at my early stages, every time I slam one of my rear doors or the trunk It's a feeling only found on luxury cars and I may exagerate but even better.

Thanks Emerge I have no idea how much $$$ we are saving, I guess a LOT, this is the coolest site for our cars, GO YarisWorld!!!

I'm tired tonight so I just cut the OEM speaker out with an exacto knife and cut the plastic structures with a wire cutter, no big deal and the Zeus 6.5" fits perfect. I hope I can finish the door tomorrow (or should I install my new wheels! mmm I'll wait for black Lugnuts first)

derickveliz2

04-21-2010, 12:46 AM

yeah... what you call CLD Tiles I call mat....
I might consider adding some of the MLV in the future...

There is a difference between CLD Tiles and Mat, (this is my own version):

I can tell physically because I'm using both! first price $$ wise, each CLD Tile (6x10 inches) is about $2.30 each and the aluminum foil is very thick and hard to cut, I did cut my self many times with this product, it's very stiff and heavy, the adhesive is butyl... strong and less flexible, very different than the one found in the Mat I use. It would be too expensive to cover everything with CLD tiles (constrained layer damper)

Take a peak of this document (some may already seen it) with Products Reviewed:

B-Quiet Extreme and Ultimate, Brown Bread, Cascade Audio Engineering VB2,
Dynamic Control Dynamat Original and Dynamat Xtreme, Elemental Designs eDead v1 and eDead
v1SE, FatMat, RAAMaudio RAAMmat BXT, Second Skin Damplifier and Damplifier Pro,

Here is the LINK (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/sds_old_site.pdf)

D.

.

talnlnky

04-21-2010, 12:43 PM

ok... .what brand of mat are you using then?

derickveliz2

04-21-2010, 12:56 PM

ok... .what brand of mat are you using then?

I'm using RAAMmat BXT from www.raamaudio.com (http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=59)

You can see the difference in the pictures with CLD Tiles, the tiles have no wrinkles... and I'm using RAAMmat BXT to block holes, and corners or on top of OEM material, some times to hold CCF in place and for plastic panels to add a little bit of strength.

CLD Tiles from www.sounddeadenershowdown.com (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi)

.

derickveliz2

04-21-2010, 05:14 PM

For lunch I had a couple dozens of crunches and some kind of Yoga going on! getting the Firewall treated it's very hard, especially on your body. But not impossible!

I put a few peaces of MLV behind the Fan/Cabin-air-filter and hold it in place with foam an lots of pressure. You can see the green foam on the left, behind that I slided a layer of MLV.

Then I took a big sheet of paper and kind of traced the corner shape all the way up, then cut a MLV following my traced paper and tuck in there, all the way up, the Amp wire is behind the MLV I don't know if this is ideal but it was kind of in the way; then hold it with a couple of bolts as you can see in the picture.

I cut it longer than I need it, on purpose so the wheel well gets 2 layers of MLV, I don't know if helps, but in this area for me it was easier to overlap a lot, instead of gluing to seal the MLV.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9247.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9240.jpg

Thank you,

D.

.

Herbicidal

04-22-2010, 01:09 AM

Holy smokes! It took me 2 1/2 days to get through all the posts in here! I've learned alot and before I found this thread started to sound deaden my sedan. I'm using RAAMmat BXT II with Ensolite. So far I've done the entire trunk. I'm saving the Ensolite for the passenger compartment/doors. I've removed my rear seat and plastic pieces so I can get to the wheel wells. I've decided I want to get new speakers front and rear so with all the stuff currently removed from the back half it seems like the perfect time to replace the speakers. I plan on deadening the doors and floor, but that will be it. I'll keep an eye on this thread and on SQComp's build too regarding the headliner. Hmmmmm.

Anyway this is a most excellent thread! I'm not going anywhere near as Xtreme as you Derick, but I applaud your efforts! :clap: Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:

Kaotic Lazagna

04-22-2010, 01:38 AM

Which speakers are you going to get, Herb?

swidd

04-22-2010, 01:40 AM

derickveliz2

04-22-2010, 03:34 AM

Holy smokes! It took me 2 1/2 days to get through all the posts in here! I've learned alot and before I found this thread started to sound deaden my sedan. I'll keep an eye on this thread and on SQComp's build too regarding the headliner. Hmmmmm.

Anyway this is a most excellent thread! I'm not going anywhere near as Xtreme as you Derick, but I applaud your efforts! :clap: Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:

Thanks Herbicidal! It's has been a learning process for most of us...
.
:w00t::w00t::w00t::w00t::w00t::w00t:

/

sqcomp

04-22-2010, 06:15 AM

indeed it is a learning process! I'm "stressing" on the special clips that are holding the C-pillars and my sun visors on...

Herbicidal

04-22-2010, 11:49 AM

Which speakers are you going to get, Herb?Not to take this thread off topic, honestly, I haven't decided yet...still researching. Since I'm keeping the stock head unit, I want to find a good match without doing all the electronic upgrades that Derick has so very nicely diagrammed in earlier posts.

So a question here that I either missed the answer to or haven't seen it - for the stock HU, should I go with speakers that are 2 or 4 ohms? At this time I am not planning on installing any kind of amp. Yes, I know I won't enjoy the full capabilities of new speakers without an amp, but I've got to keep an eye on the $$$'s. Perhaps I can add a small amp later.

Thanks!

derickveliz2

04-22-2010, 12:10 PM

Not to take this thread off topic, honestly, I haven't decided yet...still researching. Since I'm keeping the stock head unit, I want to find a good match without doing all the electronic upgrades that Derick has so very nicely diagrammed in earlier posts.

So a question here that I either missed the answer to or haven't seen it - for the stock HU, should I go with speakers that are 2 or 4 ohms? At this time I am not planning on installing any kind of amp. Yes, I know I won't enjoy the full capabilities of new speakers without an amp, but I've got to keep an eye on the $$$'s. Perhaps I can add a small amp later.

Thanks!

I was in the same position you are before getting into all this, and this is what I was going to do:

Front speakers: Pioneer 6.5 ($40) LINK (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20032_Pioneer+TS-G1643R.html)
Rear speakers: any 6x9 (>$40) LINK (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11610_Boss+SE693.html)

2 cts I hope it helps I really don't know about the 2 or 4 ohms

you could still add an amp or a small amplified sub later, this would be a good improvement.
:thumbsup:

derickveliz2

04-22-2010, 12:15 PM

Last night (3.5 hours of work, went to bed at 3 am) dam I should start working on my car earlier, but my son and wife are first!

I cut out the OEM speaker and install my new speaker, it fits perfect and the Blue LED looks so cool!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9259.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9255.jpg

Then I cut the MLV to fit the Trim panel...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9260.jpg

Here you can see how the trim panel looks like; I cut/shape/sand the 2 peaces of Foam that protrude inside the door alouding the MLV to fit with the trim panel,...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9261.jpg

In this picture I'm using velcro to hold the MLV in place and finish passing all the wire through, I also put some 1/4" CCF between the MLV and Door (not shown in picture)

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/DSC_9264.jpg

I drove to work like this, and I was surprised that I was hearing a bunch of NEW noises (this is good) that means I'm killing noise that was bothering me so much coming from the door, I haven't seal the door yet, a layer of 1/4" CCF goes between the MLV and trim panel to complete a sandwich that will work as noise barrier, speaker box, anti rattling, and even insulation.

One tip, I didn't do it :mad: when cutting the MLV make sure you get the natural curve to the opposite side it shows in my install so the MLV tends to curb on the end towards the door and not away from the door. It should help mounting the door panel.

Thank you,

D.
:thumbup:

talnlnky

04-22-2010, 12:52 PM

Not to take this thread off topic, honestly, I haven't decided yet...still researching. Since I'm keeping the stock head unit, I want to find a good match without doing all the electronic upgrades that Derick has so very nicely diagrammed in earlier posts.

So a question here that I either missed the answer to or haven't seen it - for the stock HU, should I go with speakers that are 2 or 4 ohms? At this time I am not planning on installing any kind of amp. Yes, I know I won't enjoy the full capabilities of new speakers without an amp, but I've got to keep an eye on the $$$'s. Perhaps I can add a small amp later.

Thanks!
the ohm load of the speakers should actually be about the last thing you should be worrying about. A 4ohm speaker is generally more efficient than a 2ohm speaker, so, the additional power that a 2ohm speaker usually doesn't make much of a difference.
I've ran 4ohm & 8ohm speakers before.... you won't here an audible difference between them... its all the other specs that will make an audible difference.

Herbicidal

04-22-2010, 01:20 PM

the ohm load of the speakers should actually be about the last thing you should be worrying about. A 4ohm speaker is generally more efficient than a 2ohm speaker, so, the additional power that a 2ohm speaker usually doesn't make much of a difference.
I've ran 4ohm & 8ohm speakers before.... you won't here an audible difference between them... its all the other specs that will make an audible difference.Thanks! I wasn't sure if the 2 vs 4 made a difference as far a power requirements from the HU as I know zip about the stocker in my car.

Lookin' good Derick! You're gonna turn into a walking zombie with all those late nights! I hear you about the family, especially with a youngster demanding your attention. So...when are you to to "mod" the play structure? Stereo? Fridge? Ceiling fan? Lounge? :tongue:

derickveliz2

04-22-2010, 04:34 PM

.

I just met my worst night mare!!!........FRONT RIGHT DOOR TRIM PANEL!!!

:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

I can't believe it, it was so hard... I know the extra layers of CCF and MLV was too much and I knew I was going to trim them to make it fit; I put on and off that panel maybe a couple dozen times, maybe more!!!, I spent all my hour of lunch trying and trying... at the end I was successful. Also had to take away the little foam on the upper part, and cut all the way down the big one.

Looks like there are main points in the panel that go agains the inner door and felt like little bumps deflecting the panel making it impossible to put back in place.

I hope this helps me plan the drives side door better.

I'm exhausted :frown:

I was so lucky my boss came back from vacations and he brought 2 pizzas for us!

.

derickveliz2

04-22-2010, 04:46 PM

:biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

I forgot to mention, that the THUMP coming from the door when I slam it...

it's so GOOD, it's PRICELESS

:biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

.

talnlnky

04-22-2010, 07:39 PM

Thanks! I wasn't sure if the 2 vs 4 made a difference as far a power requirements from the HU as I know zip about the stocker in my car.

Lookin' good Derick! You're gonna turn into a walking zombie with all those late nights! I hear you about the family, especially with a youngster demanding your attention. So...when are you to to "mod" the play structure? Stereo? Fridge? Ceiling fan? Lounge? :tongue:

OHHHHH... crap.... I totally read your entire post... and somehow glazed over when you said STOCK DECK.... if you plan on running the speakers off the deck's internal amplifier, then I would stay away from the 2ohm speakers. I thought you were going to power the speakers off an external amplifier (i'm blond, don't crucify me).

the 2ohm load on a deck will cause it to run very hot, and possibly blow fuses. There are a lot of electronics that give off heat in a deck even before you consider the amplifier. I have a deck that doesn't even have an internal amp, it only has a 2amp fuse, and the front of it gets warm.... now compare that to a deck which will have around a 10amp fuse.

Usually when people talk about running a 2ohm speaker, it's because they want to get every last watt of power out of their external amplifiers.

Herbicidal

04-22-2010, 08:02 PM

OHHHHH... crap.... I totally read your entire post... and somehow glazed over when you said STOCK DECK.... if you plan on running the speakers off the deck's internal amplifier, then I would stay away from the 2ohm speakers. I thought you were going to power the speakers off an external amplifier (i'm blond, don't crucify me).

the 2ohm load on a deck will cause it to run very hot, and possibly blow fuses. There are a lot of electronics that give off heat in a deck even before you consider the amplifier. I have a deck that doesn't even have an internal amp, it only has a 2amp fuse, and the front of it gets warm.... now compare that to a deck which will have around a 10amp fuse.

Usually when people talk about running a 2ohm speaker, it's because they want to get every last watt of power out of their external amplifiers.
No worries! I know just enough to believe the 2's were not the best choice for my stock HU. I bit the bullet and just ordered these 4ohm units from SonicElectronics:

1. Kicker KS60.2: 1 @ $109.99 (doors)
2. Alpine SPR-69C: 1 @ $99.99 (rear deck)

I've got my car 1/2 torn apart and would like to ONLY get into the doors and rear deck once!

Better to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission!

derickveliz2

04-23-2010, 01:16 AM

I can't work on my car tonight, I have to do real work.

The only thing I could say is that my ride back home was very pleasant, the door feels very solid and quiet, now I should keep working on the floor and mid section.

Zzzzzzzzzzzzz good night.

D.

.

derickveliz2

04-23-2010, 01:43 AM

I was quoted $700 for a floor, door, rear trunk and rear speaker area sound deadening job with dynamat, from a pro installer shop. It wouldve required me to get a rental car while they would keep the car for two days.

Doing it myself with b-quiet abd some cheap carpet and old clothes ~ $220. The real savings will result from not having to buy a new car to be satisfied.

I like doing it my self, I do it with lots of precautions, love and care to my car. I don't even let anybody else change the oil. I'm afraid that they won't do it carefully and won't do it with PASSION! like I do.

And if I had to do it all over again, I Would!

Besides a layer of dynamat it's not going to be enough to get good results. I'm going to tell you a little secret I did. I experimented with the right front wheel well and applied 2 layers of Mat and went for a ride, not much of an improvement, then I installed the MLV with CCF and the difference was significant better. I understand the going for SPL the extra layers of Mat help, and at some point starts working as a sound barrier.
It's like when we do schools with Gyms next to libraries, Classrooms and Auditoriums, in the specs we show absorbent materials and sound barriers.

Any way it doesn't matter how we do it, there are too many factors and opinions and I respect everybody's point of view but the most important is that we are having fun with our cars and sharing, comparing and enjoying what all this is about. "YarisWorld"

D.
.

sqcomp

04-23-2010, 06:41 AM

Derick...

I just read the post above about trimming the foam in the panel. Yeah...Nothing one can't handle though. I killed all the factory spacer foam myself. It was easier to do that way.

derickveliz2

04-23-2010, 09:44 AM

Derick...

I just read the post above about trimming the foam in the panel. Yeah...Nothing one can't handle though. I killed all the factory spacer foam myself. It was easier to do that way.

That is going to be the first thing I do on the passenger's door.

.
:thumbsup:

.

derickveliz2

04-23-2010, 11:58 AM

.

Today on my way to work, something really nice happen...

I call my brother to say "Hi", 15 seconds after... He says...

"I can hear hear you very well, your phone sounds very clear! did you get a new phone? Where are you?"

I said... No! I didn't get a new phone, and I'm driving on the highway at 75mph.

So my project is WORKING, I never had a nice conversation over the phone in my car when cruising over 60mph, I had to rise my voice a lot on the phone so the other end could hear me, this is very

SATISFACTORY!

:w00t:

D.

.

derickveliz2

04-24-2010, 01:16 AM

Working on the center channel, and the pillar that holds the passengers seatbelt, lost of engine and transmission noise coming from the center channel, some how I'm trying to add MLV across and some CCF under, I also notice that in some areas the floor gets really HOT! wonder if I should use some reinforced MLV (I got some of this to apply under the hood and on the other side of the fire wall) to reduce heat transmission inside the cabin from the exhaust? Bad in summer but good in winter...
PS... I ordered lugnuts (in Black) for my new wheels.
More soon.

.
D.
.

derickveliz2

04-27-2010, 10:38 AM

Working late, again... but this time on my car... yes last night I had that Bug :burnrubber: to get things done, not that I finished but I did finish the floor on the passangers side, it's hard with the MLV where floor meets walls and corners; also wanted to get plenty of CCF and MLV going up under the center console and all the way back to the arm rest. I do have a confession...:redface: I was to lazy to remove the OEM deadening material, so I end up putting more Matt under the seat covering all this area.

I had to do in in sections, MLV doesn't likes to be bend in 2 directions, and follow by a slow process with the glue trying to set up and making sure that I was going to be able to put everything back together. I don't want to have another bad experience like the one with the right front door.

I'll post images later, but as of todays ride... :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: it's getting better and better, this is very satisfactory for me and gives me a happy face :smile: and all the strength to keep going. :biggrin:

When hitting a bump I could feel the bump but barely hear it (towards the passengers side. I remember when I read long time ago that the Yaris has a noisy engine at high RPMs "NOT any more".

The DashMat works really nice :thumbsup:, it was raining last night and the noise coming from the drops of water(rain) [a very annoying peak noise] hitting the windshield at 75 mph blends in a quiet lower frequency level, same for wind noise, The DashMat it's not pretty but acoustically works very well.

I'm having a second thought about the doors, since I can't get a full coverage of the door with MLV I'm going to order more Mat and go back inside the door and apply a couple of layers to compensate.

photos soon...

derickveliz2

04-27-2010, 02:31 PM

.
Here is the OEM deadening material that I didn't wanted to remove
.
:frown:
.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9270.jpg

.
a little bit more Mat over the OEM deadening material
.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9272.jpg

.
1/4 CCF in place -The carpet tells a story that I found helpfull, it actually comes reinforced in some sections with foam and other materials that tells you where are the noisy areas in our cars.
I wish I had a picture, I'll try to take one for the pilot's side.-
.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9276.jpg

.
Applying MLV and gluing horizontal and vertical elements
.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9278.jpg

.
Carpet back in place -
.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9283.jpg

.
Center console back in place making sure it fits and I see I can add more Foam and Vinyl inside going over the other side, covering about 95% with MLV, This is going to be good.
I kind of hate to hear the transmission as I shift gears. I also made a couple of 6"x8" rectangles of MLV covered with 1/8 CCF on both sides and slide them under the bracket of the stick and gear mechanism.
.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9284.jpg

.
This is the DashMat, I didn't installed, I just lay it down so it can break in and match the shape of the dashboard.
I had to show this photo in black & white the DashMat shows as a soft Purple color in every shot. :frown: :iono: :iono: LOL
.
http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9289.jpg

.

Lunch time!!! I'll see if I can get more Mat and CCF under plastic panels.
:thumbsup:
.

.
:w00t:

swidd

04-27-2010, 02:43 PM

Where did you get that dash mat?

derickveliz2

04-27-2010, 03:34 PM

Where did you get that dash mat?

I got it from Global Accessories (http://www.global-accessories.com/dashmat/index.html),

Great costumer service, and I was a pain, I asked for samples more than 3 times! and I even got a free yard of the material, because I want to cover the pillars as well, I like the idea of "sound absorbing materials" near the windshield, thinking of sticking 1/8 CCF under.

It looks much better in real life, and kind of makes me feel cozy at the steering wheel.

We'll see what my lovely wife has to say!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:

D.
:thumbsup:

talnlnky

04-27-2010, 07:17 PM

Before I was somewhat considering a dash mat... because it'll help keep that wierd gas that leaches out of the plastic from making that white cloudy mess on the windshield, PLUS it'd help absorb noises for better sounding speakers.... BUT now that you said it also helps with the sound of rain hitting the windshield... oh man... i'm really considering it now.

Goal... Get married, Get new job, pay off CC debt,Get dash mat & Start the equipment phase of my install (already have most of the deadening done).

getting maried in like 40 days... and hopefully I should have a job offer in about 3 weeks (process has been going for nearly 5 months already, almost done).

derickveliz2

04-28-2010, 05:57 PM

derickveliz2

04-28-2010, 06:15 PM

Yesterday I did most of the panels of the dash board (Mat + CCF) they look very ugly but who cares, we never see the back side anyway.

Last night...

Ok this time I wasn't going to let me be lazy, I had to remove the OEM deadening material, specially in this area (on the floor behind passengers side), TOYOTA Engineers are telling us where is the noise coming from! Just look at that peace of FOAM, almost 2 inches thick... when I say this I new I had to do it right! Also this section flexes a lot, just push with your hand and you'll see it moving! so here are the pictures...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9297.jpg

Here is the OEM deadening material that rests under the 2 inches of foam.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9291.jpg

derickveliz2

04-28-2010, 07:07 PM

PAINFUL PROCESS

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9292.jpg

Almost there...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9293.jpg

Cleaning it up...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9294.jpg

This hole goes straight to the road!...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9296.jpg

And mine is less than 5 inches from the road!...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9295.jpg

talnlnky

04-28-2010, 08:02 PM

derickveliz2

04-29-2010, 09:20 AM

talnlnky...You did good! that area feels like so wimpy.

I'm out of Mat, but I started applying CLD Tiles, For now I'm going to leave it like that, and go ahead and work with CCF and MLV on top.

Here are the pictures with CLD Tiles ...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9299.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9301.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9302.jpg
:wink:

swidd

04-29-2010, 09:48 AM

You're an artist!!

Herbicidal

04-29-2010, 01:54 PM

Based upon those and the previous pic's I can hardly wait to get started on the front floor area! :rolleyes:

derickveliz2

04-29-2010, 02:11 PM

You're an artist!!

Thank you, :wink:

and it's nice to have Yaris Wold as an inspiration!

.

derickveliz2

04-29-2010, 02:12 PM

I can hardly wait to get started on the front floor area!

Go for it! :burnrubber:

D.

.

Herbicidal

04-29-2010, 02:23 PM

Go for it! :burnrubber:
D.
.
Yesterday I received my newest order for some more RAAMmat BXTII and another 9 sq ft. of Ensolite. I think I'm good with the mat, and I'll need to be selective on where I put the Ensolite. I have made virtually zero progress on my car this week, just too hectic. Unlike you (Mr. Vampire!) I need my sleep! :tongue:

derickveliz2

04-29-2010, 03:16 PM

Yesterday I received my newest order for some more RAAMmat BXTII and another 9 sq ft. of Ensolite. Unlike you (Mr. Vampire!) I need my sleep! :tongue:

Here Mr. Vampire...needs some sleep! :frown: Last night my poor little kid had a small accident on his car seat :barf: (not in the Yaris, the other car) :barf: if you know what I mean, and I took the seat apart to clean it, and I had to come very early to the office this morning, I feel sleepy :frown: Zzzzzzzzzzzz

I'm getting more material next week, at lunch I was trying to install Penguin Garage rear hub 10mm spacers and I couldn't take the drum off :mad: :mad:, I'll try at home using the bolts that hold the hood to take it out, so I can install my new shoes!

D.

derickveliz2

04-29-2010, 05:33 PM

:bow: :bow: :bow: Sqcomp it's turning my project into this... LINK4video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xySrPj7A2rw&feature=related)

I'm Drooling :drool: :drool: :drool:

.

sqcomp

04-29-2010, 09:11 PM

It seems that we're all doing cool little projects.

I'll put up a step by step tutorial to go along with that Youtube video. That should take any guess work out of the removal of the integrated piece and install of an aftermarket source.

derickveliz2

04-30-2010, 02:40 PM

I may be able to use my Pioneer DEH 835R Head Unit!

YEAHHHH!!!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/Pioneer-DEG835R.jpg

derickveliz2

05-02-2010, 09:03 AM

I forgot I also have a Premier (Pioneer) 6 disk magazine, I guess is not a big deal since MP3s are so popular. I'll install it and keep there my 6 favorite CD disks.

(o:

.

sqcomp

05-02-2010, 11:50 AM

It's been a while since I've seen one of those. When was this deck manufacured?

Herbicidal

05-02-2010, 09:31 PM

It's been a while since I've seen one of those. When was this deck manufacured?Ouch!............. :laughabove: Hey, I like CD's too! I might even have six!

derickveliz2

05-03-2010, 12:41 AM

It's been a while since I've seen one of those. When was this deck manufacured?

Wow:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:, it's amazing how time goes by, I got this deck for my Tacoma back in 1999-2000 that's 10 years ago! :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
.
:thumbup: I'm getting old :w00t:

.

derickveliz2

05-03-2010, 12:45 AM

Ok, I had a very hard time trying to install a 10mm spacer in the rear left corner, It's amazing how TOOLS make a big difference. Now I have to do the other side...

HOW does... this translates into sound deadening...
Well the Wheel/Tire is spinning 10mm away from the Wheel well!

I hope I'm getting more stuff from Rick (RaamMat) tomorrow or Tuesday, we'll see.

D.

derickveliz2

05-03-2010, 02:04 PM

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/Spacer2.jpg

derickveliz2

05-03-2010, 02:15 PM

I just ordered a Toyota Bezel part # 55405-52640 for $91, should have it tomorrow.

(o:

derickveliz2

05-04-2010, 03:57 PM

.

I just got the Ensolite IUO Peal and Stick, and took pictures next to the CCF that I've been using.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9488.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9480.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/DSC_9469.jpg

The Ensolite is almost as thick as the 1/8" CCF the good thing is that works like a sticker, so will help me apply it in the back of the trim panels.

OHH NO! so much work to do! :thumbsup:

Herbicidal

05-04-2010, 04:13 PM

Great pics! Honestly I'm not sure I would want to work with anything thicker than the 1/8" vinyl nitrile or the Ensolite that I have been using. For me, I'm not going for that much sound deadening! :eek:

derickveliz2

05-04-2010, 04:33 PM

Thanks.

The foam not only helps absorb some very high frequency noises that the first layer of substrate may not block.

And when trim panels buzz or rattle, the use of foam will isolate them from whatever they are rattling against.

.
:thumbup:

derickveliz2

05-05-2010, 02:08 AM

Wow...!

I just finished with the other spacer in the rear right wheel. It's just 10mm away from the wheel well but every grain of sand counts!

Tomorrow will get rid of snow tires and put the new O.Z. shoes (o:

.

pennyracer

05-05-2010, 02:25 PM

looks like you really getting into making these tin cans rattle a little less i cant get enough sound deadning its the best to thing to to be able to enjoy driving these cars and a little bit of music helps also :)

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/yarisdoublelayerinnerdoorpicture-1.jpg[/IMG]

:eyebulge:

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/yarisdoublelayerouterdoorpicture.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/yarisdoorfiberglasspodswork-3.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/speakerpod.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/IMG00004-1.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/RANDOM-INSTALLS409.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/RANDOM-INSTALLS483.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/RANDOM-INSTALLS481.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/RANDOM-INSTALLS482.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/thmyyarisbackenclse-1.jpg