Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[sqcomp]

You see where the staples are around the outside of the trim ring there? NOT the fiberglass...but the upper ring of staples. That is actually an 1/8" notch on the outside of the trim ring put there purposely so I could attach the fleece and still build UP not down after sanding. Do it the other way, without the groove, and you'll find that the glass on't be even.

[derickveliz2]

This is what I'm getting!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e316/adamtaylorpcb/2011-02-04_15-02-23_679.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e316/adamtaylorpcb/2011-02-04_14-30-59_876.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e316/adamtaylorpcb/2011-02-04_14-34-21_985.jpg

D.

[sqcomp]

That seems like it'll work. I might not have done it that deep on the groove, but you've demonstrated the idea. The groove doesn't have to be deep, just enough to get the substrate and staples in there. It's a simple adjustment on the plunge router. Now, get those tee nuts or thread serts for mounting the speaker in there.

[derickveliz2]

Yeah, it was hard to find some body to build this rings for me, unfortunately I don't have the tools, I would love to do all my stuff. I'm looking forward to get them in the mail in the next few days! I'll let you guys know and post my own pictures.

Yes, tee nuts or thread serts I should get sooner than later.


D.

[sqcomp]

D!

Why didn't you ask me? I had no idea that you wanted this done. I could have done it. PM me, How much did these cost you?

[chester816]

how about sound deadening your front fender? which noise came from road to tayer and to our fender.

[derickveliz2]

D!

Why didn't you ask me? I had no idea that you wanted this done. I could have done it. PM me, How much did these cost you?

PM sent.


D.

[derickveliz2]

how about sound deadening your front fender? which noise came from road to tayer and to our fender.

Done!
Very effective, specially on rainy days or snow slush.

D.

[chester816]

Done!
Very effective, specially on rainy days or snow slush.

D.

really? but i didnt see how u do your fender sound deadening, which i plan to do but dont know how:redface:

[derickveliz2]

really? but i didnt see how u do your fender sound deadening, which i plan to do but dont know how:redface:

it's about 3 pages ago... Post # 908 (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=548951&postcount=908) here we go!

FYI


Talking about deadening...


I would like to report one of the best if not the best treated area for my Yaris, Yes the front quarter panels, you know I've been doing a lot of deadening on this car, but the really good one, the "bang for your buck"... it's right there, for rainy or snow days (salt & sand), this mod, really makes a big difference!

With only 2 CLD tiles and less than 1 square foot of Mat (per side), the end results are price less! I really recommend to deaden this areas, I don't know why I didn't do it before!

This is the achilles heel of the Yaris, please Toyota take notice!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/2f1db869.jpg

D:burnrubber:

[chester816]

thanks your information,
by the way, im from Malaysia, nice to meet you bro.
you have a good explanation and ICE information provided to us. thanks!
Sincerely,
Chester.:thumbsup:

[derickveliz2]

thanks your information,
by the way, im from Malaysia, nice to meet you bro.
you have a good explanation and ICE information provided to us. thanks!
Sincerely,
Chester.:thumbsup:

You are welcome Chester!

D.

[derickveliz2]

Bachuka out!

IDQ in!

Tomorrow will fire it up, and let you guys know my impressions :biggrin:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/891ab6c2.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/652f52ab.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/5b8f2fe1.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/79c25f32.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/03ed2863.jpg

D.

[sickpuppy1]

How do you like the build of the sound ordinance box?

[sqcomp]

When you fire it up, tell us where you have it in the car and it's positioning. Tell us how much power you have going to it as well.

I can tell you from experience that you'll need to play with placement a bit for the best response. I say that because I didn't and now I am in the middle of re-doing my enclosure.

Albeit, mine is a different woofer, still...the general principles are the same.

If it doesn't sound right the first time you put it in the car, don't worry. Moving it around can make a world of difference.

[derickveliz2]

How do you like the build of the sound ordinance box?

Fit and finish, not bad to be a cheap box ($59) I don't like the fact that is made of 5/8" MDF. But... it's doing the job.

D.

[derickveliz2]

When you fire it up, tell us where you have it in the car and it's positioning. Tell us how much power you have going to it as well.

I can tell you from experience that you'll need to play with placement a bit for the best response. I say that because I didn't and now I am in the middle of re-doing my enclosure.

Albeit, mine is a different woofer, still...the general principles are the same.

If it doesn't sound right the first time you put it in the car, don't worry. Moving it around can make a world of difference.

"If it doesn't sound right the first time you put it in the car, don't worry"



I'm glad you told me.... :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:









I'm kidding.... :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:








IDQ............. SWEET! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:



It's behind the seats in the middle, facing UP towards the openings where the OEM 6x9 speakers used to be.

I'm putting 500 watts from the PawerBass amp @ 2 ohms.


The Bachuka sounds very good to be a Bazuka but the IDQ it's amazing


I'll play with location and aiming to learn and/or find surprises. Right now as it is feels AWESOME! like one of those HiFi home theaters where the Bass surrounds your body and you can feel it, and feels so good!

Like any other SQ fanatic, I played the famous CD "Hell Freezes Over" and I'm just speechless I don't like all the songs of this album but I was just amazed on how nice the BASS on every song feels and sounds. I'm very happy with the IDQ, it looks so humble that it's just hard to believe it sounds so good.

I CAN'T WAIT FOR THE IDQ TO BREAK IN!




So my status is:

Tweeters: Great!

Mids: Great! but will change aiming and location just a bit

Mid-Bass: Hifonics 6.5 zeus will get disconnected and the L6's will take control in kick-panels

Woofer: Great!




D.

[sqcomp]

I was going to suggest, either up the way you have it or facing to the back of the trunk. My 15" rolls either way pretty well.

The break in period will last a little, just don't clip the signal into the amplifier and you should be fine. The IDQ is a good woofer.

[sickpuppy1]

Fit and finish, not bad to be a cheap box ($59) I don't like the fact that is made of 5/8" MDF. But... it's doing the job.

D.
I've thought about those a bit. I'm only going to be pushing a little 8" with 225 rms, so I could get by with it. I was pricing 3/4" mdf last night and thought after the wiring, carpet, glue, screws, etc I'd have alot more into it than the 39.95 plus 5 to ship. I like the idea of 3/4" or better wood. But with the little guy I'm using and how much power its gonna get, I really doubt I'd hear the difference.
Thoughts SQ? I'm gonna use a JBL GTO804 sub, so I wanna stick around .3 to .35 cu ft.

[sqcomp]

If I was going to do a wood enclosure, I'd make mine out of marine grade Baltic birch plywood.

Sick...do you have measurements for a vented enclosure on that 8"? I'm thinking a larger vented enclosure for the 8" so it will be tuned lower. The .3 idea is cool sealed but the output is going to be mediocre with the power given. The sound will b good however. I'd do something like that hidden up in the dash somewhere.

[sickpuppy1]

I was thinking a a sealed enclosure for sound quality, but would a vented be OK for me? I know its aweful small. I can get the mesaurements from JBL in a few...at least what they recommend for that sub. BRB

[sickpuppy1]

I guess a .6 is what they say...
http://www.jbl.com/resources/Brands/jbl/Products/ProductRelatedDocuments/en-US/BoxesandParameters/GTO%20804D.pdf

As you can see, the sealed gives a much flatter curved, but noticeably lower SPL, which is to be expected of course, for a given watt.

Quite honestly, I dont think i have the skills to do an in dash install, as cramped as it is in that dash.

[sqcomp]

I'm thinking that the output may not be what you want out of a sealed enclosure with 225 Watts. That plan vented at .6 of a cube with a port isn't offensive at all. What do they have it tuned at? 40 Hz?

[sickpuppy1]

It looks like thats peak output,huh. I may just go that route.Its rated at max 200rms. How far beyond can you push it though? Stone cold newbie in the sub market here,lol

[derickveliz2]

I was going to suggest, either up the way you have it or facing to the back of the trunk. My 15" rolls either way pretty well.

The break in period will last a little, just don't clip the signal into the amplifier and you should be fine. The IDQ is a good woofer.


Yes, Looks like facing up, but for now I feel overwhelmed with Bass, I need to take a break.

Does Clip the signal means "too loud and distortion"? if so, no I won't do it, I'm guessing some 30 or 40 hours to break in.

Thanks

D.

[sqcomp]

D,

If you're hearing distortion, you've either gone WAAAAY into clipping or you've got some nasty issues coming from the source.

[derickveliz2]

D,

If you're hearing distortion, you've either gone WAAAAY into clipping or you've got some nasty issues coming from the source.

No, I don't hear any distortion, what I mean is that I would never do that to a brand new speaker.

D. :thumbsup:

[derickveliz2]

I got the rings for the L6s... time to start building kick panels.

D.

[derickveliz2]

Is it normal that when I crank up the volume the IDQ12 makes my hair tickles?

Yeah! I like that. The very interesting is that the car is not really shaking, I feel the bass in my body and at high volume in my hair too. Feels good!

Now it's very noticeable the lack of performance of the Lows (mid-bass Hifonics Zeus 6.5" drivers in the doors) at low levels they are OK, but I had to x-over them at 120Khz HPF other wise they just don't sound right.

For a few seconds I MUTE the Lows and is very interesting it just sounds beautiful. There is so much to learn about music, there are some music that the Sub it's just not playing and the Lows (mid-bass) are doing all the work.

Sqcomp, now it makes a lot of sense to put a couple of 6.5 woofers under the dash, maybe under the glove compartment? how is your project going?

D.

[sqcomp]

That mid bass performance is one of the reasons I like three ways over two way sets. I completely agree that two way sets are easier to set up that three ways. The issue for me is that I like to spread the power over more speakers to have the ability to tune more easily...to have more flexibility in shaping my sound.

D, I have a sneaking suspicion that you'll be able to cross your L6's around 40 Hz at a 24 dB slope. Your enclosure will dictate the sound. We need to work together on that when you're ready.

There are some 6" woofers I have available. I'm not going to mess with them until 2012 though. I'll run this system for my first season in IASCA and then change it up almost completely. I'm already in the planning stages for an amp rack change and a woofer change. I'll probably run four 6" woofers in the dash using the same Audison 2.9 I'm pushing the 15" with. It's going to take a LOT of fiberglass ingenuity...

My project is at the point where I lay down the false floor. I've got approximately 5 layers of 1 1/2 oz mat down in the spare tire well. I've got it framed off. Now I place the floor, make the new trim ring, cut the floor, place the ring, fleece it off like I did with the mid bass enclosures...

There's more little tricks coming...to include concrete and copper BB's...

I've got to get this done by May.

[derickveliz2]

That mid bass performance is one of the reasons I like three ways over two way sets. I completely agree that two way sets are easier to set up that three ways. The issue for me is that I like to spread the power over more speakers to have the ability to tune more easily...to have more flexibility in shaping my sound.

I agree 100%


D.

[derickveliz2]

D, I have a sneaking suspicion that you'll be able to cross your L6's around 40 Hz at a 24 dB slope. Your enclosure will dictate the sound. We need to work together on that when you're ready.

Ok, so here is where we start with the L6s and Kick panels...

I got the rings now and I'm ready to figure out what's the best way to build the enclosure (kick panels)...


Check out the rings! the L6s fit perfectly:

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/L6/f6d2035d.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/L6/561a93ac.jpg


And here is where one of them will go!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/ffa2a78f.jpg


D.

[sqcomp]

Let me get some time today to get onto photobucket. That wiring bundle you have there on the left? In my case I relocated that (on both sides). That will open up the holes that will give the L6's proper "breathing" room to work down to 40hz and even lower in some cases.

I'll post a pic or two up to show you what I did.

[derickveliz2]

Let me get some time today to get onto photobucket. That wiring bundle you have there on the left? In my case I relocated that (on both sides). That will open up the holes that will give the L6's proper "breathing" room to work down to 40hz and even lower in some cases.

I'll post a pic or two up to show you what I did.

I did relocate the wiring bundle on both sides!

D.

[sqcomp]

It's in that cavity now that you should route the airflow from the back of kicks...

[derickveliz2]

It's in that cavity now that you should route the airflow from the back of kicks...

Any suggestions for aiming the L6s?

D.

[CAyaris]

Hey i sound deadened my whole trunk a while back and am now noticing a rattle and it seems to be coming from the back deck where the rear speakers are, any ideas im in a 08 sedan

[derickveliz2]

Hey i sound deadened my whole trunk a while back and am now noticing a rattle and it seems to be coming from the back deck where the rear speakers are, any ideas im in a 08 sedan

I stuck 1/4" CCFoam between the deck and the board trim. Once in a while I get a little rattle, to fix it I move the CCFoam around, and some times I put more. The foam gets smashed a little bit, letting the deck to vibrate.

What process did you use for deadening? did you apply Mat to the rear deck? CCFoam?

D.

[derickveliz2]

I started the passenger's side, that lets me keep driving and I'll do the pilot's side on a weekend , pull out some MLV and CCFoam from that cavity, the L6s will be able to breath, Then on top of the carpet, MLV, CCFoam, Mat and CLD Tiles I started putting masking tape, 1 hour later and all my body hurts, it's like Yoga. Now I'm wondering if I should include the OEM carpet, the one that says "Yaris" other wise I'm going to have to cut it to make space for the kick panels...
I took pictures will upload later

D.

[derickveliz2]

Experience builders... Kick panel building...

is it OK if I don't use FOIL on top of the carpet, before the tape?


D.

[_S7V7N_]

Hey i sound deadened my whole trunk a while back and am now noticing a rattle and it seems to be coming from the back deck where the rear speakers are, any ideas im in a 08 sedan

Check out the Middle break light that sits on the Rear deck.

[derickveliz2]

I think I'm going to put the OEM carpet with "Yaris" logo and tape on top, so I can get the carpet down there with out cutting it!

Here are the pictures of what I did a couple of nights ago...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/6cb8ca17.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/6d1e5fb3.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/670d3c66.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/cfc2635c.jpg





D.

[CAyaris]

Looks good let me know how that works for you i have been looking into making custom fit enclosure like that in a wheel well or next to one

[sqcomp]

I kicked a response onto DIYMA

[derickveliz2]

It's going to warm up a little bit here in next couple of days, I'll take advantage and work some fiberglass!

D.

[sqcomp]

Work it brother! Pics!

[derickveliz2]

Wow!

I think I hit the wall, 3:40 am and I made a mess. Working with glass making kickpanels it's very hard.

I'll show pictures of my frustration, I think I can make it work... we'll see!

D.

[sqcomp]

If you could see how big my smile is...

I have a hint for you that can make your panel fab a little easier.

[derickveliz2]

If you could see how big my smile is...

I have a hint for you that can make your panel fab a little easier.

I guess I need some advice! :redface:

D.

[sqcomp]

First, what was the most difficult part of the glass laydown?

[sickpuppy1]

Got my Lil sub in a .56 cu ft ported box....Nice balance of sound now, and with the fronts not doing anything under 100hz, they are livin better too. Gotta play with settings, but so far so good!
I bet that is a hard shape to lay freehand. Listen to SQ Derick. Maybe learn from his "experience"........

[derickveliz2]

First, what was the most difficult part of the glass laydown?


OK, besides getting down there and doing some Yoga... the most difficult part was applying the resin on the upper section/vertical areas. The fleece just kept sticking everywhere out of place. I guess I need to be more aggressive and not to be afraid to work with more than 6 oz of resin at a time.


D.

[derickveliz2]

Here are the pictures of the kick panels in wanna be kick panels...


http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/d0f1ca94.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/2aa3f823.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/d443e9e9.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/bbd468a4.jpg

Get set GO!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/7926c96c.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/c81399cf.jpg



This morning every thing looked ok, very stiff and rock solid, I don't know if I should pull them out and keep adding layers or do another layer down there?

D.

[sqcomp]

Eeek...it's just me, I wouldn't lay day down fleece as a bottom layer. Butnow that I know you did, we can work with making that fleece straight. Do what you can to make the substrate as flat as possible for a few more layers. I use fleece to wrap the top of the enclosure.

Show me pics of how you lay down glass matting. I may have some suggestions.

[derickveliz2]

Show me pics of how you lay down glass matting. I may have some suggestions.

Well, the first batch was kind of random, just trying to cover the fleece at least once or twice in some areas, My intention was to place them at 90 degrees overlapping with each other starting from top to bottom, but didn't happen. :iono:

It got cold again, Brrrr :cry:


D.

[sqcomp]

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/bbd468a4.jpg

The issue starts here. We need to keep the substrate flat to get the closest fit to the panel. If the base isn't flat it is VERY difficult to get a build up with all those waves that we see. Also, it's probably better to use chop mat versus glass weave in that area. Chop mat is great for build up, which is what you're trying to do.

[derickveliz2]

I did a second layer, now I'm going to try to pull it out, trim and reinforce it.

D.

[derickveliz2]

We need to keep the substrate flat to get the closest fit to the panel. If the base isn't flat it is VERY difficult to get a build up with all those waves that we see. Also, it's probably better to use chop mat versus glass weave in that area. Chop mat is great for build up, which is what you're trying to do.

It wasn't easy to pull that thing out!

The waves kind of filled in and made a flat surface in the back, the second layer filled in the uneven areas on top, I just added another layer, it's very heavy and solid, I'm going to add another layer or 2 then trim out and glue in the ring for the speaker, any suggestion for aiming the L6s? my feeling is 30-45 degrees at the stick??? :iono:

This is not easy, I guess after doing it half a dozen times, it gets better! :laugh:



D.

[sqcomp]

It does get better.

Suggestions? Yes, aim the mids to the stick and up about a foot.

Oh, Jim got your e-mail about the rings. Nice pic you used! :) I'd actually suggest using a 1/4" flush instead of a 3/4" flush ring. It'll make it blend better.

[derickveliz2]

It does get better.

Suggestions? Yes, aim the mids to the stick and up about a foot.

Oh, Jim got your e-mail about the rings. Nice pic you used! :) I'd actually suggest using a 1/4" flush instead of a 3/4" flush ring. It'll make it blend better.

A foot above the floor or the stick? I guess the floor.

about the picture (I stole one of your pictures, just in case the name of the files is "Ring Sqcomp" jeje)... I have to make sure I get what I'm looking for. And yes 1/4" would be good.

Thanks


D.

[sqcomp]

You're going to aim the mid bass a foot above the stick shift. You can also aim them into the center of the dash (or anywhere in between) aimed up to that level a foot above the stick shift. Simply due to the size of the driver, I'm thinking that the magnet would be better nestled into the corner aiming to the stick shift.

You have to remember that bass frequencies are less directional than the mid range and the tweeter.

[derickveliz2]

You're going to aim the mid bass a foot above the stick shift. You can also aim them into the center of the dash (or anywhere in between) aimed up to that level a foot above the stick shift. Simply due to the size of the driver, I'm thinking that the magnet would be better nestled into the corner aiming to the stick shift.

You have to remember that bass frequencies are less directional than the mid range and the tweeter.

Thanks,

So it's more of a convenience/ergonomics, in other words... for the Pilot's side to keep it away from the clutch!

I better aim the Pilot's side first and try to do it symmetrical.

D.

[derickveliz2]

Pictures after pulling the base out! + one more layer on the upper section.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/45c84ee3.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/83b16a06.jpg



After a couple more layer...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Kickpanels/b7ec4574.jpg


I feel a little bit more comfortable working with fiber glass and resin, That's why I started with the passenger's side first, with more space to play and screw it up, the pilot's side needs more attention to clear the clutch.


D.

[sqcomp]

Looks very familiar! The next step is technique with the mat and weave. After that The next step is cabosil for you...if you ever need it. There are SO many pics I have to show...

[derickveliz2]

Looks very familiar! The next step is technique with the mat and weave. After that The next step is cabosil for you...if you ever need it. There are SO many pics I have to show...

In what language are you talking? LoL

Yes, I need pictures to learn how to do it please.


D.

[sqcomp]

google search for Cab o sil

[derickveliz2]

Sqcomp...

I can't stop thinking about the project using small subs in front,....

so today I put my IDQ12 on the floor in front of the passenger's seat! to see what does it feels...


I can't describe how nice it feels, so Natural and pure bass. This is where "S" meets "Q",
I can feel the bass in my body and not the seat, feels like a true "Front Stage"! every thing coming from the front speakers; this is not a BOOM BOOM! feeling, it's pure Sound Quality! low to moderate volume, still I can crank it up but that is not my goal.

Now I now why Top SQ cars have a sub in front, I can just keep my little 1 cubic feet box down there, but it would be nice to have a smaller 8" or 10" sub. I wonder if after installing the L6's filling that 40Hz-200Hz area, I could try some thing?, maybe on of my old 10" Solo-Barics or get some thing like a JBL GTO804 (8" woofer) in a small 0.3 cuft custom box under the glove compartment? I read the GTO804's are good SQ woofers in a small package.

any thoughts? suggestions? tell me about the new 6.5" woofers from HAT? any good?

D.

[sqcomp]

That Imagine 6 sub woofer would be good used up front. I remember Scott saying that a .3 enclosure would do fine.

The Imagine 6 sub was made to go head to head with the Ultra 6" sub and kill it hands down.

Check out the Ultra piece:

http://www.ultrasubs.com/proddetail.php?prod_uid=6

The Imagine sub walks all over this!

Stick two in the front a 2 Ohms. The price is even better than the ultra.

I'm looking at sticking four of them up front up in the dash.

[derickveliz2]

That Imagine 6 sub woofer would be good used up front. I remember Scott saying that a .3 enclosure would do fine.

The Imagine 6 sub was made to go head to head with the Ultra 6" sub and kill it hands down.

It would be nice to know if I could get my hands on one Imagine 6 sub!

I would even consider one Ultra 6" if getting an Imagine 6 turns out to be impossible.

Do you think one wouldn't be enough? maybe 2! how do I stick 2 drivers at 2 Ohms? do I need another amp? can I use the one I'm using for my IDQ12?

D.

[sqcomp]

You're using that Pioneer amp on the sub aren't you?

I can get the Imagine 6 subs...easy. They're less expensive, more sensitive, and burlier than the Ultra.

Let me talk to Jim to get more info for you on pricing. It may be Monday before I get a good answer. I'm also talking to Scott directly.

[sqcomp]

I lied...I've got the answer for you now...

You've got a PM

[derickveliz2]

You're using that Pioneer amp on the sub aren't you? Let me talk to Jim to get more info for you on pricing. It may be Monday before I get a good answer. I'm also talking to Scott directly.

I'm using a Power Bass amp with 500 watts at 2 ohms for Subwoofer, The Pioneer is moving the Mid-bass with 100 watts that will power the L6's. (not shown in this picture)



http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/PB/33faf3a6.jpg



This is what we are talking about right? "I6SW"

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/5dbed50f.jpg

Thank you,

D.

[sqcomp]

That's the I6SW alright. Figure...I had my hands on the first one delivered before Scott even looked at them in Las Vegas. :)

Okay, 2 Ohms with 500 watts seems like enough for two of them. Told ya on the Imagine vs the Ultra. The imagine makes it look like a baby sub!

[derickveliz2]

I haven't had time this weekend to go over the kick panels and experiment a little bit more with the woofer up front, but looking forward for this project that seems to never end, the new I6SW look like good candidates, now lets go back to the drawing board and see how I could arrange a couple of these little monsters. I may have a new IDQ12 for sale soon!

D.

[sqcomp]

Before we put that IDQ up for sale...

What I'm thinking the needs to happen is a breakdown of the dash from the top down. You can take off the dash pad and get a feeling for what the airspace availability is IN the dash.

As I remember, you'll find a tube sub frame to work off of for the dash itself.

I'd suggest opening that up and taking some pictures...and sitting on the idea for a week or two. Let's share those pictures and location thoughts before you sell that IDQ.

[derickveliz2]

Before we put that IDQ up for sale...

What I'm thinking the needs to happen is a breakdown of the dash from the top down. You can take off the dash pad and get a feeling for what the airspace availability is IN the dash.

As I remember, you'll find a tube sub frame to work off of for the dash itself.

I'd suggest opening that up and taking some pictures...and sitting on the idea for a week or two. Let's share those pictures and location thoughts before you sell that IDQ.

I can't express how good the IDQ12 sounds (or feels) it's just amazing! specially now that it's up front, I wish I could leave it there for ever. All the low frequency problems disappear, no more adjustments I just let is sit there and play any kind of music pounding hard in my chest besides it feels so natural compare when it was in the trunk. I wish you guys could experience in person what I'm experimenting it's just awesome! (I'm sorry for the crapy picture, my cell phone it's not very good at taking pictures)


I know the dashboard it's the best place for the mini subs, but instead of dealing with the dash board, I was thinking the following:

Stop doing the Kick panels for the L6s and move them to the doors, this would leave enough space under the glove compartment for two (2) I6SWs, kind of like a big kick panel facing towards the passanger's seat. Some how be removable just in case.


The ideas of going into the dash are great, but I don't feel I'm capable of doing it by my self.

Here is a photo of the IDQ in front of the passengers seat.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/6657c3b5.jpg


D.

[sqcomp]

Yeah...6" subs are so much more civilized...and they can be hidden easier!

[sqcomp]

...he he...

OR

We could do something SICK like mounting the 6" woofers IN your rear deck:

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/6.jpg

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/5.jpg

Just something for your imagination!

[derickveliz2]

We could do something SICK like mounting the 6" woofers IN your rear deck
Just something for your imagination!

Yes! my imagination tells me a custom "Dash Board", the rear deck idea won't help us with front stage.

I can't believe the difference by just moving my sub-box from the trunk to the front. It's like day and night! That is why I want to put 2 mini woofers (I6SW) under the glove compartment.

D.

[sqcomp]

The heater core is behing the glove box as I recall. It's a challenge...need to take off the dash pad though, just to see the real estate we'd be working with.

[TOLMACH]

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_256&products_id=8234

[derickveliz2]

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_256&products_id=8234

Not bad for $90+ a pair

requieres a vented box of 0.40 cuft with a 2" diameter vent by 7" long, for an F3 of 44Hz.

https://www.madisound.com/store/images/p830946.jpg


D.

[derickveliz2]

The heater core is behing the glove box as I recall. It's a challenge...need to take off the dash pad though, just to see the real estate we'd be working with.

I wasn't thinking going that deep, I'm considering 6 or 8 inches of firewall/floor, I'll try to sketch some thing out, do you have the physical dimensions of the I6SW, looks pretty massive!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/5dbed50f.jpg

D.

[derickveliz2]

Ok, this is only a sketch (it's a cross section parallel to the car, right in the middle of the passenger's seat) these are my thoughts in paper and it's only an idea, I took some liberal dimensions and I don't know the specs of the I6SW so I'm assuming 7 inches in diameter and about 6 inches depth.

I know I could shrink every thing a little bit more, and/or change the angle of the mini-woofers.

I thought it this way because my wife usually takes her shoes off and she could rest her feet on top, well not in winter until its warm and cozy, but that is once in a while, 99% of the time I drive alone. I'm going to have to make a mock up and sit my self to get a feeling on how bad the space would be!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/3173da70.jpg


D.

[sqcomp]

E-mail to you D. There are possibilities here. it's just about how much we want to put into it. The nice thing about these Imagines is the reverse surround. That allows for excursion without having to worry about the surround rubbing.

[derickveliz2]

The nice thing about these Imagines is the reverse surround. That allows for excursion without having to worry about the surround rubbing.

I knew that there was a "why" behind the HAT driver's design! I think I asked before, but I kind of knew the answer!

Looking into the glove box area too.

D.

[derickveliz2]

Looking into the glove box area too.
D.

Not a lot of space, the glove box as is, it's about 0.15 cuft, using all the space of the glove box I'm guessing about 0.25 cuft.

I'm still on the idea under the glove box/fire wall.... :iono:


D.

[sickpuppy1]

I kinda looked around up there too when the idea came up. Decided I needed my glove compartment more and stuck with the trunk placement. I really like the idea of having it up front. But unless I glassed off the entire bottom access to the dash, I couldnt find a good way to get space for a cabinet.

[derickveliz2]

I kinda looked around up there too when the idea came up. Decided I needed my glove compartment more and stuck with the trunk placement. I really like the idea of having it up front. But unless I glassed off the entire bottom access to the dash, I couldnt find a good way to get space for a cabinet.

I know what you mean...

A few days with the sub up front and it's not going back to the trunk!
I hope the idea of the I6SW works even if it's under the glove compartment in a removable enclosure.

D.

[Maitre_Te_Te]

LOLLL wow... how many RMS whatt do you have in your car?

[derickveliz2]

LOLLL wow... how many RMS whatt do you have in your car?

Not a lot but just enough for SQ

Tweeters.....75w
Mids............75w
Mid-Bass......100w 200w soon!
Sub-W.........500w

Mid-Bass upgrade to 200w soon!

D.

[sqcomp]

We can probably extend the top of the enclosure you have illustrated UP to just under the AC/Heater unit... That may give you the ability to flatten the front of the enclosure out a little.

You may also want to think about making the subs fire onto the firewall area and have an inch or two of space from the firewall and the bottom of the woofer. Still having the woofers in a sealed enclosure of course. Think of it liek a downfiring setup, except aimed to the firewall instead of down.

[derickveliz2]

We can probably extend the top of the enclosure you have illustrated UP to just under the AC/Heater unit... That may give you the ability to flatten the front of the enclosure out a little.

You may also want to think about making the subs fire onto the firewall area and have an inch or two of space from the firewall and the bottom of the woofer. Still having the woofers in a sealed enclosure of course. Think of it liek a downfiring setup, except aimed to the firewall instead of down.

I'm looking for dimensions, then I could mock up in place. How much bigger than the L6s are the I6SW?

D.

[Shinare]

...my wife usually takes her shoes off and she could rest her feet on top...

D.

Not if she's ticklish! heh

[derickveliz2]

Not if she's ticklish! heh

I'm going to call it... "Foot Massage" as a sales point... LOL

I'm plying with the L6s ring's in the area below the glove compartment, I'll shoot some pictures tomorrow.


D.

[sqcomp]

Scott's still working on getting the official specs into .PDF...

[derickveliz2]

Scott's still working on getting the official specs into .PDF...

Awesome!


Sqcomp... did you just change your avatar?


D.

[derickveliz2]

I just couldn't stop thinking about it, here are some pictures with the L6 rings, they are about 8" in diameter. I sit down for a minute to see how bad it is, It's ok as long as you don't want to stretch your legs.

Now I have to calculate how much space is behind there, and take in consideration the thickness of the MDF if any. May have to glass the area and fill it up and check the internal volume.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/I6SW/afedfecc.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/I6SW/a41495e2.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/I6SW/41b9535b.jpg

D.

[sqcomp]

Here's the thing, you could shrink down the trim rings, specially in the center. I would definitely recommend glassing. The trick is making the enclosure go up BEHIND the dash around the heater core. Now, this is where cabosil type material will help you. I'd like to be able to see you shrink down the space that is taken up in the foot-well.

...and yes, I changed the avatar. I'm thinking about something else. I got my hands on some vintage gear...they don't make it like that anymore.

[sickpuppy1]

SQ, I have a friend who gets older stuff at flea markets for use at his trailer on the river! I've told him more than once, he should restore and resell this stuff but he wants it for cheap sound that wont matter when it floods! GRRRrrr

[sickpuppy1]

And by the way, a nice McIntosh blue would look good in your Avatar....I'm just sayin.....

[sqcomp]

*Meh* I can say I sold this bad boy yesterday:

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2.jpg
^6 channel. 4 channels X 100w, 2 channels X 300w. Dual illuminated output level meters. Power Guard. Quad MOSFET PWM power supplies. Ported tunnel forced-air cooling. Multi-stage thermal protection. Input level controls. Transient protection. Gold plated terminals. 2ohm stability. Allows internal installation of McIntosh parametric equalizer modules. Includes built-in electronic crossover with selectable high pass and low pass filters. Size 2-3/4"H, 34"W and 12"D. Sold from 1996-. Last retail price $4000.00


I was thinking of snatching it up for myself, but the headroom of my LRx's is more than what this bad boy gives. Still though...That would look SWEET in the back of a Yaris!

The guy who bought it is going to put it to good use. Besides, I favored him anyway, he's running HAT speakers.

[sickpuppy1]

Never have checked into their mobile audio stuff. Always liked the home goodies though.....

[sqcomp]

Well...imagine the quality of the home stuff in your car.

[derickveliz2]

I can't believe it!

I moved my sub to the rear seat in the center, I adjusted Time Alignment and went for a ride...

I thought some thing was wrong, where is my woofer? where is all the bass? I moved it around, checked wires, and nothing, after 61 miles I moved it back to the "FRONT" the IDQ came alive!

Location and aiming of a sub, it's very important! experiment and find out your self the best for your system.


D.

[sqcomp]

:)

I'm saying! You'll notice that the most successful SQ cars are the ones with up front woofers.

[vimnjicki]

hey! put a set of tweeters in the A pillars...wait. Getting a little bit ahead of myself. I replaced the stock front door speakers with a pair of Polk 6501 components. woofers in the door of course but I was able to install the tweets in the A-pillars. Sweet sound stage. Just have to get another pair for the rear and then the 8 inch subs. By the way, Derick, it looks like there is an appreciable amount of space for a sub under the dash. It would be down-firing and Im not sure about the cubic feet. but I could stick my head in there beside the fan housing. I just took out the glove box. Just throwing that out

[derickveliz2]

:)

I'm saying! You'll notice that the most successful SQ cars are the ones with up front woofers.

Yes I can clearly understand why!


D.

[derickveliz2]

Derick, it looks like there is an appreciable amount of space for a sub under the dash. It would be down-firing and Im not sure about the cubic feet. but I could stick my head in there beside the fan housing. I just took out the glove box. Just throwing that out

Yes, there is some space down there, I'm working very creatively to figure out how to put 2 mini woofers (6.5")


D.

[RawrDaddy]

Why No Shallow Mount - Under The Seat setups?

-btw x ive been sitting here watching this thread ANXIOUSLY for your results.CHOPCHOP-

[sqcomp]

@vimn

I think we're already at and past the point of simply putting tweeters in the pillars. :)

Wouldn't you say D? Both of us have gone WAY past just a simple tweeter install.

[Viperoni]

The Peerless XLS 10" slim has ridiculously small sealed box req's (on paper...), I wonder how it'd do under our front seats... ?

[sqcomp]

hey D...

Here are the specs as promised:

http://hybrid-audio.com/Imagine%20I6SW.pdf

[derickveliz2]

Why No Shallow Mount - Under The Seat setups?

-btw x ive been sitting here watching this thread ANXIOUSLY for your results.CHOPCHOP-

Thanks RawrDaddy, I'm very anxiously too!

I think that putting a sub under the seats would miss the point of moving the bass as forward as possible, even though it's not a bad idea, but the space under my seats it's too small after deadening and besides I think it would impact the seats directly.

D.

[derickveliz2]

The Peerless XLS 10" slim has ridiculously small sealed box req's (on paper...), I wonder how it'd do under our front seats... ?

I didn't find the slim version, but according to them: LINK (http://www.d-s-t.com.au/data/Peerless/Peerless_XLS_Subwoofer.pdf) the Peerless XLS 10" needs 20 liter box, AKA 0.70 cubic feet, 0.10 cf more than (2) I6SW.

I still have 3 Kicker Solo-Baric 10" woofers that work on 0.66 cf, and I could play with one of them too. But the option going under the seats it's out of the equation for me.

Thanks
D.

[RawrDaddy]

Oh Ok
i see now.

(under a seat was the only place upfront that i could think of besides using the dash area >_<)



...imaputmysubinsidemysteeringwheel.

[derickveliz2]

@vimn
I think we're already at and past the point of simply putting tweeters in the pillars. :)
Wouldn't you say D? Both of us have gone WAY past just a simple tweeter install.

We have discuss this before, and I feel "vimn" is just trying to share with us his accomplishments upgrading the speakers with 6.5" components + tweeters, but here we go so we all learn (like me a year ago I knew nothing!)

Some one told me about this issue:

When using components (6.5" + tweeter) it's recommended that you keep them no more than 12" apart. why?

You will end up with female voices (highs) up at the tweeter level and male voices (lows) way down where your 6.5 speakers are. And rear speakers do nothing for "Front Stage" even the Sub want's to go up front!


To accomplish "Sound Stage" is more than that, Time Alignment it's a key feature that makes it possible (a 3D-mentional sensation of sound) . And having a main source of sound it's so important even though we run 4 channels (high, mids, lows, and sub) for Sound Stage I'm using my 3" Mids to be the main source of sound playing with a frequency from 200 hz to 10 Khz, this moves my stage where ever my MIDS are. Highs (tweeter pick up from 10 Khz and up, but they are next to the MIDS so no frequency separation) Also "aiming" the MIDS it's important... I've been learning how it works, for example my mids are aiming to the middle of the front seats (kind of a 45 degrees from the sides) that it's wrong, makes my stage right in front of my face and it's not parallel (kind of like a "V" shape), I feel more like "In Stage" than "Front Stage"

I'm going to redo the Mids aiming almost facing each other so my stage moves over the dashboard (Forward).

Thanks "vimn" for posting, pictures are welcome!

D.

[derickveliz2]

hey D...

Here are the specs as promised:

http://hybrid-audio.com/Imagine%20I6SW.pdf



Thanks!
I was looking at this last night, mmm they are not the same size compared to the L6s

They aren't too deep either, that's good! I'll start sketching...

HAT even had a Photo of the new I6SW on FB...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/I6SW/a7c5cb87.jpg


D.

[derickveliz2]

This is what it looks like to accomplish 0.30 cu ft for each I6SW

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/I6SW/fac2d0d6.jpg




kind of like a sub-floor!

D.

[sqcomp]

If you do that with a fiberglass floor, it'd be easier. What about that suggestion you made of one vented I6SW?

The distance issue you asked about has to do with phasing and crossover points for the most part. Since you're running active off the deck, you can solve that. Don't worry about it. Jsut ask questions if any issues come up.

[derickveliz2]

If you do that with a fiberglass floor, it'd be easier. What about that suggestion you made of one vented I6SW?

If I go with 1 vented I6SW then I can still do my L6s in the kick panels...

Me thinking....

D.

[vimnjicki]

I appreciate all the comments and replies, guys and yes, I know most in this thread has gone past a simple tweeter install. I havent done any car audio in over five years and its still, like a kid learning to walk, kinda exciting to actually not screw up the hole i just drilled and/or not reverse the wire polarity.

[derickveliz2]

I appreciate all the comments and replies,where is the hole in the firewall through which to run the amplifier power wires? Do I have to make one? Thanks for the replies.

You don't have to make one, Mine is on the passenger's side up under the carpet over the fire wall, others have done it on the pilots side.

D.

[RawrDaddy]

D.

hey derick x do you have any pics of your current audio setup inside your Yaris?

[derickveliz2]

hey derick x do you have any pics of your current audio setup inside your Yaris?

What would you like to see?


D.

[sqcomp]

Hey D, be prepped for pics of the L8SE coming soon! I have no speakers in the car right now...next week we're going to map out the trunk build out and I'll probably be leaving the car with Jim and Justin for a week while I use my father's car...

[vimnjicki]

Thanks, Derick. I found the sticky that showed where that hole is in the firewall.

[derickveliz2]

Hey D, be prepped for pics of the L8SE coming soon! I have no speakers in the car right now...next week we're going to map out the trunk build out and I'll probably be leaving the car with Jim and Justin for a week while I use my father's car...

Look at you, I'm trying to get an I6SW and in a few weeks you are going to tell me that they are coming with a new I6SWSE or an I8SW or some thing like that.

You better tell Scott that I would do the Photo Studio pictures for him for FREE of course, just tell him to send a pair of each SE to me. Jeje

D. :biggrin:

[RawrDaddy]

What would you like to see?


D.


Where you have your mids and tweets at currently.

..plus i tend to have a thing for the yaris's interior:rolleyes:

[derickveliz2]

Where you have your mids and tweets at currently.

..plus i tend to have a thing for the yaris's interior:rolleyes:

Sure...

Photo 1 (http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Front%20Stage/ee961c62.jpg)

Photo 2 (http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Front%20Stage/af33904f.jpg)

Photo 3 (http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Front%20Stage/b7761ecf.jpg)

D.

[derickveliz2]

Today I tried the IDQ facing UP down in front of the passenger's seat...(sorry for the quality of the photo)

Long story short... my right ear was soar very quickly, and I could feel where the BASS was coming from. So I rotated 90 degrees towards the back, facing the seat. That's the sweet spot.

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/68370543.jpg


This is the sweet spot...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/6657c3b5.jpg


The option of putting a woofer facing up it's no more an option.

D.

[sqcomp]

What about turning it to the dash?

[TOLMACH]

I heard this speaker couple times installed where you plan yours in 8 and 10 liters.. I liked the result..

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_338_340&products_id=686

[derickveliz2]

What about turning it to the dash?

I think you know the answer! I know you like subs firing down!

Well... SWEET + 2

The output it's great! feels like 2 subs instead of one,

A little bit the effect that the trunk creates but it feels good since it's coming from the front!

Some what more BOOM BOOM that SQ,
and it doesn't blends as good with the Mid-Bass compare when facing towards the seat.

One way or the another it's great, I can live with it, what...
I want to live with it! the idea is to gain back that space,
at least a person can sit down on the passenger's seat and I can show off my music.
Definitely I'm not going to put the BASS back in the trunk!

It's amazing how acoustics works, and this reminds me about that


"It doesn't matter if you get the most expensive speakers in the market,
if they are not install properly, they probably sound like Piiii "



Here a picture of the IDQ facing forward...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/e9474181.jpg

D.

[derickveliz2]

I heard this speaker couple times installed where you plan yours in 8 and 10 liters.. I liked the result..

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_338_340&products_id=686

Thanks TOLMACH,

10 liters is what I need to put an I6SW in a ported box, the advantage of a smaller woofer is installation, the But of the Peerless 830452 10" XLS is bigger.

But that's for posting this woofer looks like a great option for Yaris enthusiasts looking for a good and smaller box solution.

D.

[sqcomp]

There will obviously be a difference beteen an IDQ 12 and a Hybrid 6 (even if it's ported). I would seriously look at the direction of "fire" on the woofer before makiing permanent changes.

You have to remember that the mid bass shouldn't be affected when your final plan is put into place. look at the difference in the enclosure of the IDQ and the Imagine woofer. You also should consider the tuning frequency of the sub woofer along with the resonant frequency of the car...and correspond the two so that they work together. At what point does your vehicle sound the loudest bass-wise? That will give you a VERY good enclosure and environment to allow the sub to play LOW and loud without even stressing the amplifier one bit.

[derickveliz2]

There will obviously be a difference beteen an IDQ 12 and a Hybrid 6 (even if it's ported). I would seriously look at the direction of "fire" on the woofer before makiing permanent changes.

You have to remember that the mid bass shouldn't be affected when your final plan is put into place. look at the difference in the enclosure of the IDQ and the Imagine woofer. You also should consider the tuning frequency of the sub woofer along with the resonant frequency of the car...and correspond the two so that they work together. At what point does your vehicle sound the loudest bass-wise? That will give you a VERY good enclosure and environment to allow the sub to play LOW and loud without even stressing the amplifier one bit.

I agree 110% with you.

I asume the IDQ out performs the little I6SW (a 12" woofer vs a 6" woofer?), but I'm aware that I'm not pushing the IDQ, I've seen videos and they move! mine moves just a little bit, my gains are very low, I never had the amp even warm up after one and a half our of playing continuously all kinds of music, the volt meter in the P99 shows 14.1v most of the time on the road, and at stop signs around 13.8v with music playing all the time.

I had a time of my life where I wanted my neighbors and friends to notice, hear and feel when I has coming around the corner (and I did, but boy my ears hurt and I really didn't enjoy music as I do with this set up), now it's all about sound quality, and it's just that little touch of bass (true bass) what I'm looking for. Low to moderate volume it's what I like, feel the music, be able to drive for more than an hour without fatigue or a piiiiiiiip inside my ears. I enjoy all the benefits of the time I spent deadening my noisy Yaris.

That is why I appreciate all your help, it's a learning process, it's an art, obsession and passion. After experimenting with the woofer up front there is no way back, it just sounds and feels beautiful (at least for me).

If I end up going with a vented box with a I6SW I know that it's the "vent" direction that counts, and maybe I'll to a dummy enclosure (ends up about a little bigger than a shoe box) and just play with "direction of fire" before glassing any permanent installation. I know there are many other issues to take in consideration, but I'm willing to go ahead, learn and experiment and like my mids... you told me in a very nice way not to aim them like I did, now I'm going back to re-aim and play more "off axis", but how I know this is the way to go... by experience! I learn from my mistakes.

Now I'm stuck with a problem at home.... "no heat!" :mad: :mad: :mad: I got to fix that first.

D.

[derickveliz2]

At what point does your vehicle sound the loudest bass-wise?

That will give you a VERY good enclosure and environment to allow the sub to play LOW and loud without even stressing the amplifier one bit.

I'm trying to understand... is this the point where the bass sounds better at a specific volume level...

I would say if 1 is really low volume and 10 is super loud without distortion... the best is from 4 to 8 and some thing I found is that I really don't make gain adjustments on my remote any more between songs, the bass sounds great for all kinds of music at any volume level.

Some thing I found very nice, before I had to adjust one, two or tree clicks on the gain control, depending on the song to make it sound good.

Please correct me if I'm wrong with this question.

D.

[sqcomp]

Okay...let's try this. Do you have a sine sweep from 100 to 20 Hz?

I'm working with a couple formulas to try to figure out what we can do with the ol kentucky resonator design on this woofer...

I'm working with one of the guys on the team who is actually fabbing up a ported enclosure to send it to Scott.

[derickveliz2]

Okay...let's try this. Do you have a sine sweep from 100 to 20 Hz?

Yes I do!

I got these bunch of Test Tones, that I have no idea how to use them, I got them from AmpGuts.com (http://ampguts.com/cmps_index.php?pageid=audio_downloads)


D.

[sqcomp]

If you can find a 100hz to 20 hz sweep and burn it onto a disc...that would be good. Also, see if you can find the tones from oh, 36 hz to 50 hz in half dB increments... Burn those onto the disc as well. Something tells me we'll find the sweet spot inthe sedan around 38 to 42 hz.

[derickveliz2]

If you can find a 100hz to 20 hz sweep and burn it onto a disc...that would be good. Also, see if you can find the tones from oh, 36 hz to 50 hz in half dB increments... Burn those onto the disc as well. Something tells me we'll find the sweet spot inthe sedan around 38 to 42 hz.

Done!

what do I do now? just play them? what to expect? what m I looking for?


Thanks

D.

[sqcomp]

what you're looking for is the frequency that sounds the loudest in the car. You're going to work the sine sweep until you get the general idea of where it sounds the loudest and THEN work the half dB tones until you nail it down specifically.

From there we tune the vented enclosure to work WITH the natural frequency of the vehicle to extend the "bump" of the overall response in the vehicle.

Thoughts?

[derickveliz2]

what you're looking for is the frequency that sounds the loudest in the car.

OK, :w00t:

Let me try in my way home. I'll let you know.


Thanks again :thumbup:

D.

[derickveliz2]

OK, this thing it's hard for me, if I'm doing correctly it gets louder between 30Hz and 50Hz

Should I be looking at the graphic EQ display?

Sounds pretty good from start to end (feels good too). With a little low some where around 63Hz I guess this gap will be fixed once I install the L6s.



D.

[sqcomp]

The deck's display won't give you any pertinent info. At least we've nailed down the 20 Hz range. Now it's nailing the specific frequency to tune with. Is there one o those frequencies that "moves" the car more than the others?

...you probably also noticed that the Voltage likes to sink when throwing out sine sweeps...

[derickveliz2]

Is there one o those frequencies that "moves" the car more than the others?


I'M GETTING THERE!


...you probably also noticed that the Voltage likes to sink when throwing out sine sweeps...


In idle yes, and I haven't tried with the motor shut down; at highway speeds not much.


PS... I finished my taxes.... need to talk to your buddy... I need rings and a I6SW

D.

[sickpuppy1]

I hope you meant you need to talk to his buddy, lol

[sqcomp]

I remember the pricing for the i6sw...drop me an e mail of the time frame that you want this to happen with the woofer and the trim ring. I'll let Jim know...

[derickveliz2]

I hope you meant you need to talk to his buddy, lol

See what happens when you post around 2am LOL
:bonk: Zzzzzzzzzzzz


D.

[sickpuppy1]

LOL, I figured as much. I just have a habit of pouncing on a weak moment. Its a short guy attitude thing.....

[derickveliz2]

Well,
I've been looking for a new job, there is one that may work out, we'll see.

In the last week I've been struggling with some tire noise from my snow tires, what caused the noise? you got it! the rear Camber kit I installed last Fall.

So after figuring out now I'm going to remove the camber kit, it's a pain but I rather have a quite ride than a good looking camber wheels.

D.

[derickveliz2]

Some thinking for the install I want to do, shown 8" woofer in almost 0.3cuft



http://simplicity.elitecaraudio.org/gt339.JPG

http://simplicity.elitecaraudio.org/gt340.JPG

Here is the direct LINK (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1114217-post6.html)


D.

[derickveliz2]

These are the specs for the subwoofer used in my previous post....

LINK (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1368W1V24/JL-Audio-8W1v2-4.html?tp=111)

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/products/2007/136/p1368W1V24-f.jpeg

D.

[derickveliz2]

Now this little guy claims it works in a sealed box volume: 0.15 cubic feet!

I have read good and bad things about it, the down side it's the Top Mount Depth of 4 3/16" for my install.

Maybe our friend Palmer has some imput about this little one!

JL Audio 6W3v3-4 LINK (http://www.crutchfield.com/s_1366W3V34/JL-Audio-6W3v3-4.html?tp=111&nvpair=FFBrand|JL+Audio&nvpair=FFSize|%5brank4%5d6-1%2f2%22)

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/scale/280/280/products/2008/136/x1366W3V34-f.jpeg

D.

[sqcomp]

What is the contrast between this one and the I6SW?

[derickveliz2]

What is the contrast between this one and the I6SW?

I'm guessing...

Sensitivity and Mounting Dept. (about an inch more for the JL)

JL Audio 6W3v3-4 80.49 dB at 1 watt

I6SW 90 dB at 2.83 volts/1meter


My translation would be the JL is not as efficient as the I6SW and needs a lot more power.

Please add and/or correct me if I'm wrong.

D.

[derickveliz2]

I took out the Camber kit, no more uneven wear on the rear tires.

Uneven wear on tires produces lots of noise and if too much some vibrations.

I'm was able to squeeze the rubber rings a little bit more into the springs, this increases the spring rate and without a sub-woofer box in the trunk, the Yaris handles much better.

D.

[sqcomp]

You're looking at about 87-88 dB at 1W/1M on the Imagine. So essentially it'd be more than twice as loud (edging closer to three times) given that it's the same general cone area. I'd estimate that the I6SW is not only cheaper but it can fit into the same sealed enclosure and go ported and bandpass (not that you have to worry about the latter). The XMAX on the JL is 1mm more but given the difference in sensitivity, that JL still won't stand a chance.

[derickveliz2]

You're looking at about 87-88 dB at 1W/1M on the Imagine. So essentially it'd be more than twice as loud (edging closer to three times) given that it's the same general cone area.

That's what I thought :thumbup:

did you have a chance to ask Jim and order a I6SW? should I call him tomorrow?

D.

[sqcomp]

I'm not going to see Jim until Wednesday night.

I would call him tomorrow, yes. Mention that you'd like to order the Hybrid I6SW and have him make a nice trim ring for it, all flushed and everything.

With the being said, would you mind if we made some video of it? I would like to give it some break in time in our sound room for a night. Perhaps even put it in a small sealed enclosure and, like I mentioned, shoot some video of it in action.

Thoughts?

[sickpuppy1]

Hey SQ, Whats your thoughts on Eric and Matt leaving ID ? Any ideas on Eric's next project?

[derickveliz2]

I'm not going to see Jim until Wednesday night.

I would call him tomorrow, yes. Mention that you'd like to order the Hybrid I6SW and have him make a nice trim ring for it, all flushed and everything.

With the being said, would you mind if we made some video of it? I would like to give it some break in time in our sound room for a night. Perhaps even put it in a small sealed enclosure and, like I mentioned, shoot some video of it in action.

Thoughts?

ALL IN THE NAME OF SCIENCE AND SQ


PS. I called Jim, I told him I wanted an I6SW and he was going to call me back.

D.

[sqcomp]

Well...apparently Eric couldn't get the other major partner to sell to him. I'm not quite sure of Matt's connection.

I know the shop is already liquidating the ID stuff. I'm also hearing that the rights to the compression horns are leaving ID as well...That doesn't bode well.

[sickpuppy1]

He apparently has plans under way for his new "endeavor" and in no way is he giving up his love of sound. He stated on another site Matt is no longer with ID and is going to work with him. So basically, he may not own ID anymore,but he will resurface with a new "project". He seems to be a genuinely good guy and they wont keep him down. Never know, He may have had some new ideas that never came to light since he knew this was coming........

[sqcomp]

It's too bad, I know that Scott could probably use Matt on the development of his woofer line...

[sqcomp]

God help me derick, I just picked up a bit one for the system.

[derickveliz2]

God help me derick, I just picked up a bit one for the system.

OHHH NO!

what are you going to do now?

D.

[sqcomp]

...I'm going to have a full 1/3 octave EQ'ing on each speaker, twice as much T/A processing, and 48 dB slopes. There's more of course but, you get the point.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2685/4478550203_687ebee9dd.jpg

[sickpuppy1]

right about then, i saw SQ doing this pelvic thrust thing and going ,"can ya feel it? huh? can ya feel it!!??" LOL

[sqcomp]

http://www.lowbird.com/data/images/2009/06/ace-ventura.gif

[sickpuppy1]

LMAO,Exactly right....

[sqcomp]

Hey D,

Got a neat little project going on with audio IN the house:

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/photo3-2.jpg

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/photo4-1.jpg

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/photo5-1.jpg

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/photo6.jpg

One panel a night. I only have four bar clamps... :(

[derickveliz2]

Hey D,

Got a neat little project going on with audio IN the house:
One panel a night. I only have four bar clamps... :(

NICE!


D.

[sqcomp]

The neat thing for me is that I found an auto body paint shop near the shop that will paint the cabinets a nice deep gloss piano black for $150. I don't have to do it! Woot!

[derickveliz2]

The neat thing for me is that I found an auto body paint shop near the shop that will paint the cabinets a nice deep gloss piano black for $150. I don't have to do it! Woot!

Cool you get a deep gloss piano and I get an I6SW to play with. :w00t:


D.

[sqcomp]

Jim mentioned that you two were talking. I can tell you both Jim and myself have talked with Scott about the I6SW for you. We're excited to see where you go with it.

[sqcomp]

Here's a teaser before hitting the edges on a router, sanding, high build, more sanding, and paint:

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/photo8.jpg

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/photo7.jpg

DEEP piano black paint job...Thank God I don't have kids yet...

[derickveliz2]

Thank God I don't have kids yet...

And I thank God for the 2 I have, I love them so much, but man they consume all my time and building power! This thread is over a year now and I'm not done!

D.

[sqcomp]

AM was correct in one respect, we're never going to be done. That's the beauty of it. We have worthy projects that keep us going!

Speaking of...

Watch out for this as well to come over the next few months. The Bit one is waiting for me at the shop, this is next (can you identify it?):

http://caraudiomag.com/sites/default/files/images/00000/43/08/audison-1.jpg

http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-music013.gif

Anyone want to buy a very well taken care of LRx 4.5?

[sickpuppy1]

Ah, if only I could afford it! I'd love to take that 4.5 off your hands and get rid of my two amps. But its out of my league.....

[derickveliz2]

AM was correct in one respect, we're never going to be done. That's the beauty of it. We have worthy projects that keep us going!


Tell me about "the never ending story"

BTW... I read I have to ground the chassis of the P99 is that true?

D.

[sqcomp]

What does the manual say?

I have no noise and I'm not running some special ground.

[derickveliz2]

What does the manual say?

I have no noise and I'm not running some special ground.

I don't recall the instructions to ground the chassis but read this THREAD (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/amp-guts-modifications-custom-crossovers/88533-p99rs-turn-off-pop.html)

I do have a little pop, when turn on or off, I changed the ground twice and the pop didn't go away.

It's very little, when driving you can't tell but in my garage I do hear it, Note that when I move my mirrors I get a tiny Bzzzz in the tweeters :cry

I unplugged the RCA cables going from the HU to the amp and the Pop was still there, same for the Bzzz on the tweets when I move the mirrors (very little though). :iono:



D.

[derickveliz2]

BTW
I went to a meeting and after I had to take my cousin back to his house, so I unplugged my IDQ moved it to the trunk (didn't connected back) and let him sit in the front seat.

I told him that there was no woofer in my system but I was going to turn my HU any way.

Then I set the "listening position" to L and R, (instead of L) then I turn the volume a little bit and he was very impressed he insisted that I had a woofer some where behind the dash!

I'm realizing that when your Mid-Bass is strong and properly set, some one who is not into Audio stuff, doesn't really needs a subwoofer.

D.

[derickveliz2]

Bad luck day! :cry:

On my way back home a little rock hit my windshield and made a crack about 5 inches.

D.

[sqcomp]

You could try the deck's chassis ground...

I have a relay going on that delays though.

[derickveliz2]

You could try the deck's chassis ground...

I have a relay going on that delays though.

Ok, done. Pop with on is gone,

Pop off... still there.

teach me about the relay, please.

D.

[sqcomp]

I'm using the relay to power up the three amplifiers...I don't think it's going to help the situation. I'll talk to Jim in the morning.

[derickveliz2]

I'm using the relay to power up the three amplifiers...I don't think it's going to help the situation. I'll talk to Jim in the morning.

Yes please, I think every thing started with I switch to the new PowerBass amp.

I should try to put the old amp and see if the pop still there.

Thanks

D.

[sqcomp]

D,

Call Jim tomorrow. He'll be available to help troubleshoot and talk about the I6SW.

[derickveliz2]

To my surprise after starting my Yaris, and turning the HU on, the pop was gone, but a new terrible noise made presence, I'm going to switch back to one of my old amps and see what happens.


D.

[derickveliz2]

D,

Call Jim tomorrow. He'll be available to help troubleshoot and talk about the I6SW.

I spoke with him, the I6SW will arrive some day,

I asked him about the noise issue, he asked me to unplug a speaker at a time and see if I could find some thing, like if after disconnecting a speaker the noise would go away! but after that didn't have a clue.

D.

[sqcomp]

Determining noise/pop issues is really difficult from 3000 miles away honestly. It's something you want to be able to see up close to draw a determination.

I believe I was actually standing not 5 feet away from your phone conversation.

Throw up a picture of the ground on the amplifier. What was the outcome on the amp switch?

[derickveliz2]

Ok, I unplugged every speaker one by one, and every RCA cable...
the last one was the sub-woofer RCA from HU (noise went away!), so I moved the cable around and noise goes up and down.
if I disconnect it from the amp. the noise goes away.
Still the Pop off is there )o: and when I move the mirrors too.
I'm going to change the RCA cable for the sub, and keep trying.


any suggestions for speaker wire and where to buy?

Thanks
D.

[sickpuppy1]

Arer you asking about speaker wire or RCA cables, or both? And what kind of wire are you running now?

[derickveliz2]

Arer you asking about speaker wire or RCA cables, or both? And what kind of wire are you running now?

More like speaker wire for Mids, Tweets and Midbass.

I can't remember what I have now, they are green thick cables. (shielded I believe, but old).

D.

[sqcomp]

How long is the run for the RCA?

[derickveliz2]

How long is the run for the RCA?

The actual cables I believe are 12' long. (too long!) My amp sits behind my seat and connectors are near the pilots side on the left. I'm guessing a 6' long would do it.

D.

[sickpuppy1]

I got a really good deal on shielded 16g monster cable on ebay...Probably not my 1st choice, 11 bucks for a 100ft roll was hard to pass up, ya know. I would run 14/12 guage of any quality mfg wire to speakers, and shielded of course. Monster isn't bad stuff for car audio, and for my power requirements 16 is OK. And tweeters,12 guage would be pushing it,lol might be a bit hard to solder on....good shielding is key.

[sqcomp]

I might be able to throw a 6' RCA run into the packaging with the I6SW if you want.

[derickveliz2]

I might be able to throw a 6' RCA run into the packaging with the I6SW if you want.

Thanks,
lets see how it goes, I have 2 more cables that I'm going to try. I really want a pair of flush MDF rings for my Mids, rather have you check them out.

Pictures of the cables I'm using! and when I disconnect them from the sub-woofer output from the HU to the amp the noise goes away. "Stinger" VENOM Double Shielded OFC!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/I6SW/0bf5b897.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/IDQ/I6SW/7a277781.jpg




The Pop on / off still there but very little.

Driving with out the sub-woofer (RCA cable disconnected) it's pure music, no noise at all!


D.

[sqcomp]

Look closely at the RCA run. Is there a break or a pinch somewhere in the line? I'm about to go CAT 5 on my setup...I could probably give you a run of my current HPM3 Stingers. There a little better than the ones you're using now. :D

[sqcomp]

^You also now know generally what is going on after reading my FB status! I'll keep you up to date about the conversion of the P-01 to a digital out. A friend of mine has some working plans. I'm sending the deck to him in a couple weeks after he finishes some other projects up.

Think about the advantages in S/N ratio and the Mbps advantage of an all digital source.

[derickveliz2]

Sqcomp you are smoking!

It's hard to believe there is more after a P-99, at least for me.

I've been driving without a subwoofer (500 miles) I moved the freq. of the MidBass from 63Hz to 40Hz and at low volume sounds good. I have a good feeling that the I6SW will compliment for great SQ system!

D.

[sqcomp]

I'm sayin'! I'm trying to take things to the next level as it were.

We're working the ability to retain the DSP ability of the deck through the cat5e connection.

Accuracy! That's what it's all about.

I'm in a holding pattern until the new Voce Amps come out. I'm stressed quite honestly...I need to have this done by august. The new L8SE's in , the bit one installed and programed, the new amps in, the trunk finished off, the sub enclosure done, the photobook made, my passcard received...all in this time frame.

Gotta be in the Canadian IASCA finals in Calgary.

I have CES and SBN to go to next year too. Wanna come with me D?

[derickveliz2]

I'm sayin'! I'm trying to take things to the next level as it were.


If there is some one out there that can do it that's YOU!


Gotta be in the Canadian IASCA finals in Calgary.

I have CES and SBN to go to next year too. Wanna come with me D?

I would love to!

I'm still looking for a real job, we'll see how it goes this year, spring is here, warmer weather it's around the corner!

Lets hope!


D.

[sqcomp]

Well, when you figure things out, I can arrange for you to get into CES.

I think you might enjoy it...a little...

[sqcomp]

D,

Two things to look at:

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG2659.jpg

^The trim panel for the secondary battery and distro area. Next week, I'll put some plexi on it so we can actually see what we're looking at!

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG2667.jpg

^A neat award from Scott! Apparently he thinks I'm an integral part of Team Hybrids! Sweet!

[derickveliz2]

D,

^A neat award from Scott! Apparently he thinks I'm an integral part of Team Hybrids! Sweet!

CONGRATULATIONS!!!

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/th_CIMG2667.jpg


D.

[derickveliz2]

Where can I get this type of wire, for my speakers?

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG1994.jpg
© Sqcomp

D.

[sickpuppy1]

Looks similar to this, http://cgi.ebay.com/Monster-Cable-302-XLN-50-ft-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Cable-/290547707514?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a5fe2e7a
But if you search, you can better prices.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/MONSTER-CABLE-XLN-16S-50-100-FT-16-GAUGE-Speaker-Wire-/350453218882?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5198a3be42
Looks like the ends were heat shrinked, which is a good idea for moisture and air oxidation.

[sickpuppy1]

His looks to have a braiding in the outer sheath coating, so I assume its not what I linked to. Not sure if thats a strength thing or additional sheilding. Looks like fiber, so I think its for strength .

[sqcomp]

Yeah...

You can make it. It's the "Patriot" techflex. That run is on my L4SE wire. My L1ProSE wire is the "Superhero", my L8SE wiring is "Ogre", and the woofer flex is "Carbon".

http://www.techflex.com/prod_PET.asp

It's just a sheathing that goes over the already shielded triple shielded Streetwires 12g speaker wire. The heat shrink has changed a little to mark the positive quick release with red heat shrink.

...This my friends, is called install points on the IASCA scorecard.

Where do I get it? Furryletters on Ebay. He's a cool cat.

[sqcomp]

More panel work today on that distribution panel I've been toying with. It's getting close. I'll say next week it could be done.

By next week I'll have the L8SE's in my hands. I throw you some teasers...

We're also planning to re-work the amp rack to accommodate the new Audison Voce amps. They look sexy! They have the same body style as the Thesis amps...along with the digital AD link that I'll be using from my Bit One.

[derickveliz2]

.:eyebulge:
L8SE's, Voce amps, Bit One... = speech less waiting for pictures!



Well today I took off the sphere of the MIDS, and started playing with aiming again, now that I now what I'm looking for, and having the right songs (tracks) it's much easier!
Now I understand why "off-axis" and Time Alignment play a big role together.

I got rid of the noise coming from my PB amp... well sort of... I unplugged the RCA with the sub-woofer signal to the amp and the noise goes away, I added a 3rd amp just for the subwoofer and no noise at all.

I'm afraid that my PB amp has some issues.

D.

[sqcomp]

You should notice that aiming in on the mids should give some great imaging.

Also, if you're sure that the noise I'd from the amp and not a cable attached to the amplifier, let's get it back to the shop so we can warranty it and get you a new one.

[derickveliz2]

You should notice that aiming in on the mids should give some great imaging.

Also, if you're sure that the noise I'd from the amp and not a cable attached to the amplifier, let's get it back to the shop so we can warranty it and get you a new one.

It's amazing... I can't believe how acoustics works! you got to try it out to feel each scenario. specially with tracks like the 7 drums, the left center right voices, etc. There is one song I have with Marimba playing, and sounds like if the Marimba is right in front of me and I can see/feel every time they hit each note and goes left, right back and forth, very cool.

Now I need to learn/understand more about Time Alignment, why there are 2 numbers, kind of the distance of each driver to the listener, but is that physically a number or by ear?

Let me try one more time before sending back the amp, I'm going to change all power wires next week. For now I'm pretty sure it's not the cable (RCA) [or I have 5 bad RCA cables].

Any news on the I6SW?

D.

[sqcomp]

We received the I6SW yesterday. Remind me what Jim has going on with it?

What specifically did you want to know about the time alignment section of the deck? If we were to stick with the two choices you listed, to tune it by the numbers or to tune it by ear...

by ear ALL the way. With that being said, our T/A section is by measurement. I don't recall with the P-99's measurement units are. I know mine are in Centimeters.

There are WAAAY too many factors going on in a car's interior to simply plug in a mathematical equation then set it and forget it. It'd take several advanced algorithms and a big processor...which neither of us have (although I'm close with the JK Labs guys who did Scott's processor).

Still, at our level, your ears are what you're impressing. Time alignment will vary with the crossover as well. Let's start basically. The pre-programmed left side tune in that deck is pretty good.

What do you think of it's sound in relevance to proper staging?

...speaking of, do you have a good reference staging track where you know POSITIVELY where all instruments are?

[derickveliz2]

We received the I6SW yesterday. Remind me what Jim has going on with it?

Just the woofer, I'm working on the rings as we speak!

What specifically did you want to know about the time alignment section of the deck? If we were to stick with the two choices you listed, to tune it by the numbers or to tune it by ear...

I understand the deck TA very good, it's how you proceed, it's like having left and right, but it doesn't work like that (correct me if I'm wrong, please) do you mute one side and do one side at a time? or just move up and down the numbers? I put the Technical Track Left, Center, Right Narratives and start moving the numbers up and down (only for the MIDs) I start with physical dimensions.

by ear ALL the way. With that being said, our T/A section is by measurement. I don't recall with the P-99's measurement units are. I know mine are in Centimeters.

P-99 measurements are in Centimeters or Inches.


Still, at our level, your ears are what you're impressing. Time alignment will vary with the crossover as well. Let's start basically. The pre-programmed left side tune in that deck is pretty good.

My x-over for mids are 160Hz-10kHz

What do you think of it's sound in relevance to proper staging? I don't understand this question, sorry could you expand please

...speaking of, do you have a good reference staging track where you know POSITIVELY where all instruments are?

No I don't



This is how the track Imaging #4 Technical Track Seven Drum Beats images now...

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Front%20Stage/bbd0f06a.jpg


:cool:

D.

[sqcomp]

That's a good start. what does the stage do when you move the mids aimed up to the rear view mirror?

[derickveliz2]

That's a good start. what does the stage do when you move the mids aimed up to the rear view mirror?

Much better, the 7 drums are almost at eye level.

I'll do a little bit of more listening and report back.

D.

[derickveliz2]

That's a good start. what does the stage do when you move the mids aimed up to the rear view mirror?

And just a bit forward of the rear view mirror, kind of following the line of the windshield aimed above the speedometer cluster works nice too.

I "MUTE" the tweeters for now and pump up the Mids to 20kHz (tweeter less) works pretty good.

Having the Mids with no enclosure (sort of speak IB drivers) it's missing a big chunk of music.

What else should I be looking for so far I tried these tracks:

Seven Drum Beats 1 2 3 4 5 67

Front_End_Alignment 1 2 3 4

Left, Center, Right Narratives 1 22 3

*been the number each position and the space between them, got it?




D.

[derickveliz2]

and of course... a picture!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Front%20Stage/4c9ce081.jpg

D.

[sqcomp]

Wow...that looks strangely familiar...

wrap the mids in a towel so you kill the back wave and see if anything changes. We'll start moving little bits at a time after that.

Oh! What drop do you have on your Yaris? Where's you get the eyelids?

[derickveliz2]

What drop do you have on your Yaris? Where's you get the eyelids?

NF210 for a mild drop and comfortable ride, Garm from (micro image) for the eyelids too!

D.

[sqcomp]

I'll have to shoot Garm a message on the lids. I'll be dropping mine conservatively soon.

Oh...I'm picking up a silver disc K2HD 24 bit/100kHz version of, "Jazz at the Pawnshop". I'll get you a copy of it so you can reference off of...

...If you can even stand jazz...

The Over the Rainbow and Take Five tracks are spectacular, needless to say the rest is just as good.

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/images/arabesque-opener.jpg?1282071964

^Some cool looking speakers!

[derickveliz2]

I'll have to shoot Garm a message on the lids. I'll be dropping mine conservatively soon.

Oh...I'm picking up a silver disc K2HD 24 bit/100kHz version of, "Jazz at the Pawnshop". I'll get you a copy of it so you can reference off of...

...If you can even stand jazz...


I used to not like it!

But our head units make all kind of magic sound spectacular!

Thank you! That would be great!

D.

[sqcomp]

I received the album today...I'm listening to it.

What you should expect is a very comfortable five piece jazz group in a VERY small jazz club. The club was so small that the recording engineer had to put the reel to reel recorder on his lap with no console!

http://fc07.deviantart.net/fs26/f/2008/032/3/0/Nagra_IV_S_by_dangeruss.jpg

You should enjoy the ambiance and musicality of these recordings.

[derickveliz2]

I'm overwhelmed, many angles and aiming positions with the MIDs, technical tracks sound pretty good, some songs sound great! what sounds best??? it's hard to tell. :frown:

In other hand I moved my IDQ12 back to the trunk (just for a couple of days)
I just want to put it back up-front again.

I did try the PB amp in other position and I still get the noise.

It's getting warm over here, so that's good news!

D.

[sqcomp]

I'm thinking it's time to send the amp back to Jim. We'll get you covered...

[sqcomp]

A lot of the fun starts when you work on the tune...

Remember order of operations though! Can you tell me what the proper order of tuning is?

[derickveliz2]

A lot of the fun starts when you work on the tune...

Remember order of operations though! Can you tell me what the proper order of tuning is?

What are you talking about LOL,... Maybe I'm doing everything upside down...:iono:

Please tell me the answer(s) before I go nuts with Google!

At least I may know what I'm doing is not stupid... :cry:

D.

[sqcomp]

There's a certain order that creates the most success in a tune...

It' won't necessarily be on google. :)

This is where I torture you hanging the answer over your head for a little bit.

[derickveliz2]

OK, lets try...

1. set x-over points and dBs
2. TA
3. EQ

Just to throw some thing...

D.

[sqcomp]

You're almost there!

crossover

phasing

amplitude level

time alignment

equalization

Take a little time to research the different effects that your slopes that you choose will have on phasing.

[derickveliz2]

You're almost there!



Take a little time to research the different effects that your slopes that you choose will have on phasing.

crossover DONE,

phasing A LITTLE HARD BUT DID IT

amplitude level WHAT DOES THIS MEANS?

time alignment WORKING ON IT

equalization FUN AND WORKING ON IT


D.

[sqcomp]

When you put the dB level as a choice. That's amplitude in this case. You recall what your p99 crossover slopes can do...that includes adjusting the signal Voltage for each preout which is nice.

[sqcomp]

There is also another technique that is a bit more advanced...

I may let you in on that one in a few months. We'll see how I do in Calgary...

[derickveliz2]

When you put the dB level as a choice. That's amplitude in this case. You recall what your p99 crossover slopes can do...that includes adjusting the signal Voltage for each preout which is nice.

Ohh! yes! I know what you are talking about, I use it to bump up/down the Sub once in a while between songs.

Talking about "Aiming" I've been going nuts with my MIDs, but when that happens I turn "OFF" Time Alingment and that reminds me why struggle so much with this,there are a couple of sweet spots but in general they sound so good (off-axis).

I'm leaning more in a position similar of your L4s, but just a tad more into the cabin 2 or 3 degrees and I would like to sink the Mids as much as possible into the a-pillars separating them apart.

What about the Tweeters?
How did you came up with your aiming? it's very agressive towards the windshiled!

D.

[sqcomp]

The tweeters for me are an afterthought. Most of the work of reproducing sound is done by the mids. The tweeters are there for top end "air". The aiming is a result of the same effect of the mids. It's about imaging for me. I can get the sparkle and air without the tweeters being too bright (i.e.-on axis).

...Scott also suggested I try the off axis setup...

[derickveliz2]

This is what I've been waiting for...

LINK to Video I6SW! (http://www.youtube.com/hexibase#p/u/0/u8yArcObFZI)


D.

[sqcomp]

Do you want to make that enclosure or do you want us to? That's the hard thing for you...it's a T/L enclosure. Right now we're still playing around with how to get these little woofers to give BIG impact. They sound spectacular but the output isn't as much as we'd like.

It's simply not a slap it in and let it go woofer.

[derickveliz2]

Do you want to make that enclosure or do you want us to? That's the hard thing for you...it's a T/L enclosure. Right now we're still playing around with how to get these little woofers to give BIG impact. They sound spectacular but the output isn't as much as we'd like.

It's simply not a slap it in and let it go woofer.

I understand, even the IDQ12 woofer changes so much by moving it around and aiming that in some scenarios will disappoint me and others shines like no other; my guess is that I'm going to build a box(es) my self, it's going to be like "Form follows function" instead of "Function follows Form".

I will supply .35 cubic fit with 2" Diameter 16" long vent , like HAT shows in their website, as a starting point and see what happens?

I'm sorry for the slow return, I got a new (temporally job in the IT area) with lots of commute, and some other photo projects, keeping me very busy and no time for my hobby/passion.

D.

[sqcomp]

Job and family come first bro!

Like I mentioned in XBR's post, I've got a GREAT solution to IB the L6's.

Check this out:

You know the plastic insert mounts that the styrofoam goes into on our floor boards?

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/photo22.jpg

Use a flat blade screwdriver or panel popper and pop that bad boy out.

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/photo21.jpg

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/photo20.jpg

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/photo23.jpg

It gives is a 10"^2 aread for the L6's to vent! WOOT!

Take out your kicks, mark the area where that hole is, make the cut in the bottom of the pod. Before you put the pod back in, put some polyfill into the hole. It's a crumple zone that remains more dry than the doors do. I'd place a thin gasket around the hole and replace the kick pod. The mid bass response should be remarkable at this point, especially versus a sealed enclosure.

...and let the magic happen!

[derickveliz2]

Yes, I've been there before! and I was going to vent that way too, but since the idea of an I6SW would go on the floor, the kick panels (right side) would have to move out to leave space for the little woofer, a give & take so I gave up kick panels, and the L6's will go in the OEM door locations.

Lets get all the info/photos for your diagram with new equipment and we'll finish it up.


D.

[sqcomp]

I don't see any pics of the Voce amps out yet. The Bit One is a different story. You can Google images for that.

http://elettromedia-usa.com/images/BitOnePhoto4%20copy.jpg?file=Thesis_THquattro.jpg

[derickveliz2]

Did any body notice some new cars have tweeters at the A-pillars and are kind of aiming at the center of the windshield? away from the listeners? I know Sqcomp has his tweeters that way, I did try to aim my Mids and surprisingly it gets a very good Image and depth specially the vocals right in the middle of the dashboard, but the with of the stage compromises a little bit... I'm realizing that instead of dealing with bad reflexions from the windshield they are trying to take advantage.

http://automotivetime.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/2011-Cadillac-Escalade3.jpg


Working on some new rings for my Mids, and trying to fit the grill that comes with the HL-70 for a different look... I just want to use the middle part witch is Silver, I'll take my own pictures tomorrow...

http://www.extremeaudio.co.uk/extprodmainimage2014.jpeg

D.

[sqcomp]

It's something that can be worked on for stage width...I know how to improve the stage width while even improving depth from the way I have it now. The thing is, that proverbial next step is a BIG one. If I wanted to keep the pillars similar to how they are now, I'd simply shrink the mids down in there more since I'm using a neo magnet speaker. I MIGHT aim them more on axis next time. I'm talking only something like 15 degrees more on axis than they are now.

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG2060.jpg

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/photo-1.jpg

[derickveliz2]

If I wanted to keep the pillars similar to how they are now, I'd simply shrink the mids down in there more. I MIGHT aim them more on axis next time. I'm talking only something like 15 degrees more on axis than they are now.

So you would install them as far apart as possible? more distance between each mid?

Are you planing on redoing your front stage? in a very different way?

D.